High Temperature All Metal Bi-metal Hot End Upgrade Ender 3
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 พ.ค. 2024
- Chuck shows you how to add a Bi-Metal High-Temperature Heat Break on Ender 3 V2. This upgrade can allow you Ender 3 to Print up to 260 C and higher. This can also be done on any Creality 3D printer or Creality clone. This Heat Break can extend the life of your PTFE tubing, allow much higher temperature printing, and may even give you better printing results over time. So for the added cost, you might consider upgrading your Creality HotEnd to a Bi-Metal Heat Break.
Click on link below and then go to All Products then CopperHead Heat Break and
select the "C-E version" for Creality Hot Ends to find the heatbreak.
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You are a life saver chep. On this summer i started printing since then you have been great tutor. Thank you so much Mr.Chep
I have this one on my printer for about 200 hours, and its great so far. Nice to see you recommending it.
Great to see this reviewed. I liked it a lot after installation, it really improved experience with PETG, Colorfabb NGEN etc, but I struggled to get the ideal retraction. In the end e3d were doing a sale on Titan extruders, so I turned my ender max into direct drive, and changed retraction to 1mm and tuned the esteps manually. This seems to have improved things a lot - literally zero stringing, no artefacts on Benchys etc. And PETG still printing great.
Another mod for my Ender 3s thanks to CHEP. I added this on my Ender 3 with the BGM style direct drive and so far so good. I’ll be ordering a second one for other Ender 3, and probably convert that one to direct drive as well (I had the parts for nearly a year but have been too busy printing to stop and upgrade it). Thanks for all your great videos and profiles!
I've bought an Ender a year ago. Just few months ago I learned differences between shape, walls, density etc... You're my new Guru!
Thank you for this! I just installed one last night and this video helped sell me on it. Your instructions helped because I couldn't find any on Slice's website, LOL I just found your video on the ABS corners. I'm about to try printing that for the first time.
Thank you very much for more tips they are genuinely appreciated a fan from the UK
Hi Chuck. You missed an important step: Reset your Z-offset (Nozzle offset from probe). Since nozzles will not always end up in the exact same position, it is a very important to prevent damage and have an accurate offset. Great video! Much more help than the Slice Engineering Q-code
Also run pid
I’ve heard you should season this. What say ye?
What about e steps?
I knew this could be possible
Thanks for confirming this...sir CHEP
Thanks Chuck, just ordered one today from Slice Engineering
I just installed this upgrade last night. With the stock heat break I was able to peak at 9.62 mm³/s flow rate and now I'm reliably at 16.84 mm³/s. The main mod I did was mounting the stock Ender 3 extruder with the SpeedDrive direct drive mount on thingiverse.
Oh... Pretty impressive indeed, Chuck! 😃
Thanks a lot!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Hey Chep. New to 3d printing and new to the channel which is fantastic I must add. Your descriptions and walkthroughs are perfect.
I've just purchased one of these for my newly acquired CR10s pro v2, and, just now have purchased a micro Swiss nozzle to accompany it.
I hope it'll be a good combo which will minimise clogs amd the such. Keep up the good work 👏
I think you’ll like the heat break. As far as the nozzle, I’m not sold on it. And I suspect you’ll have to run it hotter than brass.
Thank you for this addition, for my adventure into using PETG. And, who knows, I might get brave and try ABS. I have functional parts tgat I made in PLA, and they did not 'weather well'; so I am hoping a material change will improve those.
What a great application, and simple upgrade 👍.
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😀
Shipping to Aus was far too expensive, 👎but Slice helped me find a local retailer. Good service 👍
Hi Chuck, thanks for making this video, after watching this I concluded the heat break was a better option for me than going with an all-metal hot end. I did run into a few issues with the installation on my Ender 3 Pro, related to the heat break being longer than the stock one and pushing the nozzle lower; sharing in case others are in the same position:
- The M3x16 bolts that go through the bottom of the hot block and into the heat sink are now too short - I asked Slice about this and they recommend just using the grub screw to attach the hot block to the rest of the assembly
- I had to shim my CR Touch with a few washers between it and the bracket, because the nozzle was now below the probe
- The part fan is now blocked by the hot block, so I quickly remixed a longer shroud to account for it; it's part - 369993 on Printables
What kind of washers did you use and how many? I am running into that issue now.
Love your videos and that is going to be next on my Ender 3 v2.
You’ll like it. Use the link for discount.
Hello Everyone Great Video CHEP I just did this upgrade on my Ender 3 Pro run my first print with the upgrade and it looking great NOTE BLTOUCH USERS RESET AND ADJUSTS YOUR Z-OFFSET that is all thanks again for the great video I will be doing with to my NON PRO Ender 3 tomorrow.
Just the video i needed!
You are a hero! :) Always watch your videos!
If you screw it on just right you can use it with bl touch. I screwed the heatbreak so it was flush with the heatblock but I would recommend going 1/2 or 1/4 turns back from it to make more room. I was left with .5mm z offset. As long as you put the bed clips in strategic spots (if you have the low profile ones to go with the creality glass bed). If you don't check the bed clips you can have the print hit them causing G112 error.
I'm definitely going to upgrade my hotend with this, it's a lowcost alternative to an all metal hot end such as the microswiss, but keeping it almost stock.
I made the mistake of buying the mellow bi-metal heatbreak, their design is not great because they don't have it setup so you can easily slot your filament down into the tip of it, so it winds up jamming up whenever I try to swap out my filament on my Ender 3. The only solution that even remotely has worked for me was to take the ptfe tube out of the coupler going down into the hot end, feeding the filament through and then hitting it with a lighter to soften up the tip so I could stretch it to a fine point, which I am then able to fit down into the tube inside the heatbreak. I'm tired of following this process so I just ordered the copperhead c-e bimetal heat break based on your recommendation Chuck. Thanks for posting great informative videos to help folks out.
My ptfe tube was shot too so change it to capricorn tubing and install my bltouch to 🙂
Works great. Just don't forget to adjust your retraction!!!! I was banging my head trying to figure out why I was getting stringing, clogs, and binding,. Duhhhhhh the filament is not as deep inside hot end anymore.
I had to drop my retraction down to 3 from 5.5 to get it to start acting right to be able to do a heat tower then retraction tower.
I just did this mod to me Ender 3 V2 and let me tell you it was not easy to unscrew the stock heat break from the hot end. I had the hot end set up like you in vice grips, but even when heated to 240C I couldn't budge it with needle nose pliers. The stock heat break seems like hardened steel. Finally was able to remove it with a small pipe wrench lol.
ahh good so its not just me. who cant undo it
I'm running a titanium version of the heat break on mine. I took a chance on it and it works great. One of the draw backs is I have to do a cold pull after every print otherwise it will jam the next print if it cools down
That means ur heat break ain't working very well lol
This is why you want to avoid buying cheap heat breaks. It's one of the most critical parts of the machine, and it has to be machined really well and be designed properly. Either that or hotend cooling situation is not very good. Having to do a cold pull every print isn't a sign of a properly working hotend.
Couldn't you just modify your gcode so at the end of each print it retracts a lot, and at the start of a print it advances an equal amount?
Hello Everyone Great Video CHEP I did this upgrade on my Ender 3 Pro running prints with the upgrade and they looking great NOTE BLTOUCH USERS RESET AND ADJUSTS YOUR Z-OFFSET I personally also readjusted my E-Step also again great video CHEP
@@LouisePaisleyUK Wow. lol Well first off I said I personally readjusted my E-Step I didn't say that it was 100% needed. I am glad that you seem to be able to use the defaults on your creality printers but with the changes I have personally made to include the one in the video I personally decided to run some calibration test after making this upgrade and came the personally decision that I needed to adjust my E-Step because I personally saw a change in how much easier and smoother the extruder was able to push the filament through after this upgrade. I would be very interested in CHEP thoughts on this.
thank you so much for this, I've been looking for any information on the slice engineering system on the Ender 3 v2 but haven't had any luck finding good information on it.
I ordered one yesterday before watching this video.
I noticed some strange stringing I never had in my past prints.
I removed the fan cover and a big petg blob was all over the hotend!
After removing the goo and disassembling the complete hotend, I found that the original heatbreak was cracked.
Ordered a new hotend and a bi-metal heatbreak. Didn't want to go for an all metal hotend from micro swiss. The original fullfills all my needs and I think it will not give me more benefits.
Chuck, love all your Friday episodes.
After watching this one, I went ahead with a hot end upgrade. Now a couple of frustrating weeks later, I think I am about the same print quality I had with a PTFE tube to the nozzle. I've watched other all metal hot end upgrade videos. It'd be nice if anyone mentioned potential issues with all metal hot end.
Like stringing, blobs, and clogs. Cause it's been a pain.
My 2 cents. You can leave them on the Take a penny, Leave a penny jar.
I’ve had none of those issues. Mine printed better right from the start. Same profile.
I have the same problem! Do you have a solution 🤔
Makes me want to pull the trigger on the Aguila. I currently have an Anet AM8 with a genuine E3DV6.
Aquila with the new Alex jyers firmware is amazing.
You're tempting me to try ABS again... Bad man!
I am looking into hotends for my Ender 3 V2. The Red Lizard Dual Gear Extruder, Red Lizard K1, Sprite Extruder Pro Kit 300℃ High Temperature, Spider High-temperature Hotend, Pico Hybrid Hotend, and the Dragonfly. I want to print Nylon CF, and TPUs in the future. Hope you cover these in the future!
Thank you.
I order one 2 days ago for my Ender Max as soon it get here i'll change the tubing for capricorn and i'm going to install belt tension upgrade after i'm thinking about the dual z upgrade, have you find something for using a touch screen on the max ? 😉 great videos and thank you
Can you do a video on putting a ender 3 v2 in a encloser? I’m worried about the power supply getting to hot. I have no idea how to relocate it outside of the encloser
I used the bi metal heat break from TH3D and hate it. It was shorter than the original ender 3 and cause my parts cooling fan to hand below the nozzle even though that was the one for the ender 3. I ended up going back to stock.
I may give this slice engineering one a try.
I installed one on my ender 3. It's a great upgrade. If I get a clog, I can normally pull the filament out while it's still hot without fully cleaning it out. Worth the money.
If the slice engineering is too expensive a all metal throat can be had from the usual Chinese supplier for maybe 8 bucks a piece.
I deal with clogging by burning cooking oil inside the filament path before installing it.
Hello CHEP what tool did you use to measure the tubing? And if you have a link that would be great! I want to make sure I have all the right tools to work on my 3D Printer so any others you want to throw at me would also be great. Thank you for the videos and the help!!!
it's a shame not to take advantage of this modification to try to raise the temperature and print nylon at 300 ° by modifying the ender. Is it possible ? could you make a video on it? it would be great to print nylon carbon on an ender
Let me start by saying I have been running straight Capricorn tubing and have never had a failed print due to a clogged nozzle. I thought I needed this so I bought the Slice heat break and installed it yesterday. Used my standard slicer settings in Cura and the print failed due to a clogged nozzle in about an hour. Today I changed the retraction distance and minimum extrusion distance window to 3mm. Default is 5mm. The print made it several hours but failed again due to a clogged nozzle. The Slice heat break was removed and I am back to printing with the original set up. Wished I would have read more of the reviews before I bought this. Can't wait for my Prusa MK3S+ to get here.
Did you verify the nozzle and heat break had no gap between them?
That’s usually the issue.
@@FilamentFriday Yes. I heated the hot end up, cleaned out the threads by threading the nozzle and head break in and out. I made sure that the nozzle and the end of heat break had solid contact. Thanks for all of your content CHEP.
@@FilamentFriday Bi metal do not work ok with PLA and bowden setups.
Would there be an advantage or disadvantage if you installed this upgrade and did the hot end fix from another one of your videos?
It cost me 57$ cad for montreal Canada I cant wait to install it on my creality ender max that is clog after a 3 weeks of printing 😁
Thanks.
@CHEP, why do you install the nozzle first??? This is not how the manufacturer's (Slice Engineering) instruction describe and this is also error prone. The proper way is to screw in the heatbreak first, until the top of the lower thread of the heatbreak are flush with the top of the heatblock. This ensures that the heatbreak is screwed-in deep enough that the MK8 nozzle *will* bump into it prior the MK8 nozzle shoulder bumps to the bottom of the heatblock...
This was possibly the single best upgrade I made to my Ender 3s. I absolutely hate the design having the ptfe tube butt up to the nozzle, it caused so many issues. As soon as I swapped to these those issues have completely disappeared.
That was probably a different problem. Since most people are printing with Bowden tubes perfectly fine. I've had zero issues with my Bowden tube. Even before I upgraded it to a Capricorn tube.
Only reason I'm getting the all metal hot end is to print at higher temps.
Do you find that it helps prevent the gap clogs? Or does it still need to be super flush?
What issues did ir solve?
@@dangerous8333 I wouldn't say that's the only reason. Changing nozzles is easier too since you don't have to go through extra steps to ensure the PTFE tube is butted up against the nozzle.
what retraction settings do you use now?
i've had some frustration with this heatbreak clogging on my ender3. it works awesome if you make no mistakes and operate your printer flawlessly. but certain common mistakes seem to easily clog it - filament runout, or leaving the heat on for awhile after swapping filament, or leaving the heat on if you left it for a second to warm up while you do another task, or even if you leave the heat on for a bit to re-level. even with good thermal pasting and the heatbreak fan running the whole time. these are all things that happen to me at least once in awhile, and recovery is fairly laborious... a complete hotend disassembly, and possibly a ruined heatbreak. i tried clearing the clog by heating to 260 for awhile and trying to push the clog out with a 1.5mm allen key, or an accupuncture needle from the nozzle side, and it just wouldn't budge. as a last ditch i disassembled, removed the heat break, and torched it and then finally was able to remove the pla clog. heh the bimetal kinda works TOO good. i may have ruined it by torching... but so far it seems to be printing ok again. i've read about others having clogging issues with this heatbreak also. i wonder if this is what inspired your recent heat creep video. i know you have had a lot of issues with the design with ptfe down to the nozzle, but frankly so far this bimetal thing has caused more show-stopping issues for me than ptfe-to-nozzle ever did, and i'll probably go back to that (or upgrade to a v6 hotend). it might be that the printer i use this in is kinda full time pla, i don't really do petg or abs on it... perhaps those are not as finicky with this heatbreak, which is kinda counter-intuitive.
Same, more issues after installation then before with stock setup
@@losangelesrccrawlers3738 it hasn’t happened in awhile. maybe i’ve not made any mistakes in months (seems unlikely). i think i heard heatbreaks can be take some run-in to season like some people say with their build plate (i’ve never really studied but i’ve heard some build surfaces work better after some use)
I see no mention of retraction distance or speed with adding this new heat break. Can you please update with info on if the standard retraction 6.5mm is too much or not. Or if it need to be reduced.
I have to say, thermal paste works. Had constant clogging on my cr10 v2. Disassembled it a few times trying to figure out what was wrong and then it came to me and I put some paste on it and bam worked waay better after. Hasn't clogged since I did that and added the chep fix with the partial ptfe tube.
I got extremely worried for a minute after i installed the heat break. I also noticed it is to tall for the cr touch. I did the auto level and adjust my z off set. Then i had to go to work. Guess just have to keep on it when i print just in case if i have to change the z offset. That would have been a nice tidbit of info to have. Very glad after came back to read the comments to see if i was the only one having that issue. Do they make some kind of back plate or something to make it higher up?
Hi Chuck, I really enjoyed your videos, i purchased the HB from Slice however I noticed that the nozzle goes in 21/2 turns. Should i relevel and change Z offset?
Printed PETG at 230°C for a few hours daily for a week and noticed the extruder starting to skip steps, the infamous clicking issue on Ender 3 style printers. I pulled out the PTFE liner and it was burned severly and obviously was on the best way to clog up completely. Now I ordered the Bi-Metal heatbrake from Slice Engineering to cheaply convert to an all metal hotend and I will see if this eliminates this problem.
It will
Two weeks with a filament oiler installed and you will never have a problem again,I almost bought the internet BS till I tried it and was blown away. I went from constant jams,and failed prints to never having a malfunction since. Just try it and thank me later
Already showed that: th-cam.com/video/OG7We83M5gc/w-d-xo.html
I put one on yesterday and it does seem to help a whole lot.
One thing I noticed was blobs of what kind of looks like burned oil and plastic on the print. It didn't seem to really hurt the quality at all, it just looks unclean. Possibly I put a little too much oil on the sponge, or maybe I need to run it hotter until the tube is fully cured? If you have a tip on that I would be grateful.
I'm already much more happy with it than I was 2 days ago when I almost switched back to the stock tube, before I saw your tip.
I bought the Slice Engineering heat break after seeing this video. I tried it right away and my print quality dropped considerably. I went back to stock Creality setup and the print quality was back up to the quality I expected.
Yesterday, I had to replace me fan motor so I decided to try it again while I had it apart. I put the Slice heat break in with a brand new Microswiss M2 nozzle that I bought at MRRF this year and reassembled it and again it prints like crap. I had re-leveled the bed. Tried slicing a quick print in the latest Cura and Simplify 3D and 2 different rolls of PLA filament. For some reason, whenever I stray away from the stock Creality setup, print quality goes down the toilet.
Any input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
I am thinking about upgrading the stock hot end on my Ender 3 v2 to be able to print with higher temperatures (for ASA). But I have heard that the heating cartridge and thermistor wires are also insulated with PTFE. Should I worry that gassing will occur on those parts or should it be safe?
I'm considering between this and the V6 hotend. However, this one doesn't provide an extra thermistor or heating cartridge, so could I ask if the stock one can withstand up to around 285-300 degree celsius for high temperature printing (safely)? Thanks :)
Is this a replacement for an all metal hotend to do nylon?
I installed this heat break on my Ender 3. In order to print high temp materials like PC or Nylon, do you think it's necessary to upgrade my heater block, thermistor, or heater cartridge? So far I've been printing ASA successfully but I'm curious about printing PC.
Great video...
Would you recommend after doing this, wouldn't a PID autotune be a good idea?
100% definitely. Any changes at all to the hot end, even a fan replacement, it's worth doing. If you've never changed your machine, it's worth doing!
I ordered a Copperhead heat break from Slice. It’s due to arrive tomarrow Saturday. Even with a XS BOWDEN tube, I would be lucky if I got 12-15 prints of PTEG running 230-240 temps before I’d have to cut off 20mm hot end of Bowden tube. I’m looking forward to install the copperhead. Thank You Again for what you do
Great video, I just bought this for my Ender 3 Max. Question I have, do you need to do a PID autotune after installing this? How is that done on an Ender? Thanks much.
You shouldn’t need to. I didn’t.
Another great video! Ordering one for my CR-10 but not seeing any discount. Will still get it though.
there is a 5 % off button which appears on the slice website. You also have to click that one
Does the Ender CR10S use the same hot end? Could this improve the performance of the printer?
Great video! I already ordered mine for an upgrade. I have a question. I plan on buying a new stock hot end for this. Should I heat up the heater block to install it or can I do it cold? Thanks!
Heating it up makes it easier.
Chep thank you!! I have a question, will it work with nylon and or the carbon fiber nylon, and is the part as good as the all metal micro Swiss hot end ? Thank you again for all your videos and your time and knowledge!! Hope today finds you smiling!!
If you modify the firmware to go above 260°C
Great review, I do have a question, did you have to reduce your retraction distance when using the bi-metal hotend.
No, didn’t change it at all.
Hi Chuck, I purchased the Bi-metal heat break for my Ender 3 v2 Neo. After I started putting together everything (based off your video) I found that the heat break does not fit into my heatsink. Do you have a recommendation on a new heatsink that will work with my Ender 3 V2 Neo?
Ugh. This reminded me I need to swap out the ptfe tube on my kossel. Probably why it's starting to look like it's under extruding
i'd love to get one but it seems hard to find for my ender5 where i live.
Hey Chuck trying my second one as the first was a flop and everyone said I may have got a bad one so will post to morrow or Sunday with an update on this one I hope it works and I did just get a bad first unit
You have great videos and I look forward to them and wanted to thank you for the help with my printer over the past 2 years if not for you I'd still be lost
THANKS!!!!11
Any updates?
How to change the printers max-out temperature after installing this heartbreak? In the firmware?
Can you show us, the same change on the Ender 3 S1?
would the retraction distance change with this installed?
This mod works great on my Ender 3 Max. Flow rate improved, reliability went up and happily prints modified PLA (PLA Plus) at 230c. Far easier to remove filament when changing colours, with the heat block at 200c, just cut the old filament before the run out sensor and you can easily pull it out by hand. With the original setup, I had to use a big pair of pliers. After this mod, I have not had to change a bowden tube and can happily use the white teflon with no problems. CAn also run lower retraction on PLA/PLA plus. Higher temperature printing and Capricorn tubing coming soon. Great review, thanks for doing it. 👍
Teflon at what temp?
100% the best first upgrade you could do to these printers. Probably the most common issue new users have is clogs because the PTFE isn't sealed well against the nozzle, an all metal heatbreak solves this issue.
This sounds like a pretty decent cheaper alternative to an all metal hot end if I'm not mistaken
Actually creates an all bi-metal hotend with improved anti heat creep.
After a lot of humming and hawing, I finally pulled the trigger on the Aquila. Also took a chance and ordered the bi-metal hot end with fingers crossed that it'll fit. Also sprung for a BLtouch-clone. Fingers crossed!
Started to put everything together. The extra length of the heat break puts the nozzle a little lower - I may have to find a different nozzle cooling solution in the future (Voxelab Aquila).
How did you increase the max temp? I assume it is capable of higher temps now?
Chuck, After installing this heat break, did you have to adjust your retraction settings? Some have recommended reducing to 1mm to avoid clogging. I currently use 6-6½mm on my E3Pro with the stock hot end depending on filament.
No, it’s still a bowden so it needs higher value. I use 5-6 depending on the filament brand.
100C bed temp for ABS! PETG you can use 80C...
Filament Friday!
I'm trying to upgrade my anycubic neo hot end full metal one is there any advice what copper heatbreak I can use
Good video. I have been searching for a video on what upgrades are required for a Creality printer (e.g. CR-10S) to print Polycarbonate filaments at around 300 C. Any advice is appreciated.
This should do it (plus firmware update) I haven’t tried it though.
@@FilamentFriday Awesome! Thank you CHEP.
@@FilamentFriday CHEP do you think this will be good enough not to go for a all metal hotend like the one from micro swiss for my CR10s?
Yes
Awesome! Gonna Doit! No need for an expensive Swiss. Haha
Just bought this heat break and installed it last night. Although I print primarily PLA, I thought this would be handy if I chose to print with other materials. However, after installed this my print quality went way South. I've re-leveled the bed, tried different temps and retraction settings. Pretty disappointing for printing PLA.
I'll be switching back to my original setup.
I think i have the same problem. The quality is not so good. I have stringing issues and i can't adjust the retraction distance because at more than 3.5mm the hot end gets clogged. So i'll try to use the oil dispenser trick. If it doesn't work, i'll be switching back to the original setup too.
I'm talking about PLA, didn't try other materials yet.
@@facundogomez4892 Did you ever get it working right? I'm having similar issues with under extrusion (possibly because of clogging) when doing a lot of retraction after the upgrade.
getting a lot of stringing also been trying all speeds and retractions. nothing works yet. spent a lot of time.
@@AndyDillbeck Yes, i managed to make it work reducing the retration distance at 1.6, retraction speed at 40 and increasing noozle's temperature at 215°C. I reinstalled the bi-metal and the noozle tighter, so i't doesn't loose material, and i installed a new aluminum extrusor, wich took me some time to adjust it right. The problem is that there is stringing (looks like you have to accept it for pla and bi-metal), but there is no clogging and It worked continuously since then.
Bought my heatbreak officially from slice engineering, about two years ago. Funfact: I am still modding this project Ender3 V2. So I cant Tell anything about the quality. But what I can tell is: my Hotend got longer about 1,5 mm. So the standard fanducts wont fit. And it’s really difficult to get a fitting duct or adjusting the lengh precisely. What about the lengh of your heatbreak? Did they fix this issue in the meantime?
I'm looking at the slice website but they don't have just the heat break. They seem to sell the heat break and a hot end in a kit. Am I missing something? Seems a little misleading to send you just the heat break and not sell it that way. In canada BTW
Hi Chep, my Heatbreak is stucked on the heatasink, its the original creality heatsink of my ender 3 v2. It didn't slide smooth like yours. Do you think i have to heat the hot end so the heat break can get out of the heat sink?
Chuck, i have heard from others about adjusting retraction for pla when withing a heat break similar to this. Any feed back on that?
Shouldn’t be any different.
What about trianglelab one?
Did your retraction settings change?
Hey chep great video brother! What extruder do you have on this ender 3 v2?
Still have the stock plastic extruder but an EZR is coming soon.
@@FilamentFriday okay that's for the reply!
Have you noticed any problems with this when trying to re-advance PLA to the nozzle after a retraction of a few cm? I had some issues with that (causing under-extrusion) when trying out a prototype metal/ceramic hybrid heatbreak which was designed to do the same thing (although it worked just fine otherwise). This is because the PLA is a bit malleable when it leaves the hot area and can distort so, when you re-advance it, it gets stuck on the rigid metal lumen (whereas the PTFE has some 'give' in it). Probably won't be an issue with ABS.
So far, no.
this will come down to machining tolerances of that bore in the heat break and what ptfe tubing your using. if there is a substantial difference in diameter you might have an issue. slice is pretty good with that though I doubt you will have an issue with them. well polished and machined tight.
A lesser copycat might give you some grief.
I can't use capricorn. Filament always seems to not go through it well. Ends up clogging at the end of PTFE
also i cant find red capricorn tubing. didnt see a link here
Interesting thanks.
Slice Unit may be decent but at ~40$ . I'm NOT willing to find out
Besides, Titanium is a decent thermal insulator in itself. So a one piece Ti throat is going to be surprisingly good.
IMO there is only v small advantage to going to a multi metal contraption, certainly so at triple the price.
And if a decently polished Inner tube is the issue.. then a half hours DIY work can produce a mirror finish.
How would you go about polishing the inside of the tube?
Fun fact, mirror finish is actually not desirable, E3D Found that filament won't be able to properly glide along a perfectly smooth surface and their heatbreaks have engineered roughness.
But yes, a one-piece Ti heatbreak is actually really, really good.