Effective and Safer 3D Print Smoothing with Epoxy not Acetone
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 พ.ค. 2015
- I wasn't happy with cold vapour smoothing with acetone (or the dangerous hot method), so I tested out smoothing my 3D Print using epoxy instead and here's the results. Subscribe to my Channel ➜ th-cam.com/users/TechWizTime?s...
Want to smooth your 3D Printed Objects? Here's some things to get started!
★ ★ Zap Z-Poxy PT-39 30 Minute Set ★ ★
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★ ★ Zap Z-Poxy PT-35 15 Minute Set ★ ★
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★ ★ XTC-3D 3D Print Coating ★ ★
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★ ★ Epoxy Mixing Sticks (50) ★ ★
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★ ★ Epoxy Mixing Cups (50) ★ ★
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This is the first time I used the Z-Poxy PT-39 30 Minute epoxy solution, so I made mistakes which I address in the video. If you think I should have done something different or want to leave a comment, please do so below. It helps me know you enjoy the videos I make.
I've been 3D Printing for around a year before I made this video so I have a pretty good idea on the process and how 3D Printers work. One thing I have found with 3D Printing though is it is not easy and 3D Prints are never 100% perfect.
Originally, the 3D Printed layers weren't very smooth at all. This was due to my XYZ Da Vinci 1.0 3D Printer not being configured properly. So after applying the epoxy solution, I found that the 3D Printing error that I made has shown me how to make really nice smooth 3d printed objects.
You can check out the original Darth Vader Melted Mask video right here • Star Wars Episode 7 Da...
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I use the XYZ Da Vinci 1.0 #3DPrinter for all my #3dPrinting needs :) This model was #3dPrinted using ABS Filament on the Da Vinci 1.0. More information on the XYZ #3DPrinters here on Amazon u2b.re/a/EtOPNt or eBay u2b.re/e/ZvsGeF
Looking for some more 3D Printing Supplies?
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★ ★ HatchBox Filament ★ ★
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★ ★ XYZ 3D Printers ★ ★
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★ ★ Samsung Micro SD Memory Cards ★ ★
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For those watching now, use gloves when applying epoxy and use a mask if you ever need to sand it. It's REALLY easy to develop a sensitivity to the compounds in the epoxy. Take a few seconds to save yourself a ton of pain in the future. Better to use PPE than to lose the ability to use epoxy in the future.
I was shocked to see the non ventilated room and no gloves. Epoxy gives off VOC fumes after mixing the two solutions
It's called 30 minute epoxy because you have a 30 minute work time before the epoxy and harder begin to react
This worked a treat for me thanks so much. A WORD OF CAUTION! Make sure you get the 30 minute set and not the 5 minute set like I did. Not only does it give you about 3 minutes to apply it before it begins setting, it also gets extremely hot and you can't save your brushes. Follow everything this guy has in his description otherwise you will make more work for yourself. Fortunately I was coating smaller parts or this could have messed up a bigger project!
Thanks again!
Ooh thanks for posting! I've been looking at different resins to coat my 3D printed and painted pot plant pots. This looks like my best option so far. Muchos appreciated.
Might give this a try for an upcoming prop build, I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks for the product review!
Hi! Out curiosity, is their a preferred layer height that the 3D parts you treat using this method should have to produce the best results?
Would've been great if you sprayed some gray primer onto the model after the smoothing process, just to showcase how effective the smoothing was. Gray primer is great at showing details and imperfections. I don't know why all the 3D print smoothing tutorials on TH-cam don't do this.
Hello Sir. Greetings from Argentina. Wonderful video. I wanted to ask you how you clean the brushes once you finish painting with resin. Or is this a one way ticket for them?
Great video, subbed. I am planning on doing Star Wars Armor printed in PLA or Petg, so this video is a great help. Could I print in white and then use this instead of primer and paint?
you can also use a tourch to ged rid of the bubbles round the mouth. just a quick swipe will do the trick.
This is very thorough, I appreciated it.
any difference from xtc 3d or reasons to use this as opposed to xtc 3d?
that's a good hindsight on the last few points about working with the model in general; any model, 3D printed, plastic model, tabletop metal/resin miniatures. first timers would often miss that point to be most crucial in getting the fun and good results out of their work.
Do you know if this would work with PLA? And will any epoxy work or does it have to be Z-Poxy? Thanks
You did it with a paint brush. So is that brush re-usable afterwards? Or you have to throw it away? I have been trying to find a method of doing this without wasting so many brushes or sponges.
Does it sand well? I need to get super smooth with my 3D print as it will be used to make a resin cast mold. I am using shapeways sandstone that sands well if a bit hard and long process, and need something to help speed the process up and me from sanding away all my details.
Any suggestions for colorants? I have areas of a model that were overhung with loose strings and I want to fill the area in. This part of item won't be seen often, but I would love to fill it in with a black goop and smooth it over.
Hey Does it bond glass with metals without any residue?
Can you paint over top of this? Or if you're going to paint should you just expect to let the paint smooth it out?
I wonder, is it possible to apply it in coats? so its more controlled?.
I plan to use a 3D printer to create some molds that I can then cast in silicone. I'll probably use Dragon Skin or Ecoflex 30 from Smooth On.
Do you think this is a good way to smooth my molds?
Could you please tell me if that was ABS or PLA 3d printed? Do you know if its also waterproof?
So does the resil actually melt the 3d printing to be smooth under it? I'd have expected it would just be clear filling the ridges but if you looked closely you could still see the ridges?
What material was that printed with? What materials would this method work with?
This method creates a smooth layer of resin over the print. More like a shell then polishing the surface itself. Right?
Cool ! Will this do for abs and pla ? And wood too ?
Thanks
I don't have my printer yet but i had already decided to see if epoxy works for both smoothing and strengthening. I'm glad to know it does before i do it. I use epoxy already in my jewelry making and the cheapest epoxy I've found is at lowes in the paint section. it's called clear coat by famowood. it's for coating bar tops. i love the stuff!
Could I do with this any epoxy(/UV?) resin with a long enough pot life?
To maintain detail integrity, would applying multiple thinner coats to selected areas be better? Of course this would greatly blow out the finishing time
Yes! It's the perfect method for me. Yesterday I tried it and today I saw the results... amazing!!!
Hey:) With what resolution was the head printed?
Hi, do you think it works on other plastics? PLA, Nylon? (obviously not on ninjaflex ;) )
Does this method works for parts printed out with ABS? Because as I noticed, XTC-3D works for PLA only.
Would you be able to paint this stuff over paint? I was thinking about making a display CSGO Karambit Fade and wanted to make the blade and ring shiny
Hiya, great video, done my first ever long print of your exact model , however be just started with my first ever tests of smoothing/clean up.having watched countless videos, I took my first step and used your exact method here, I didn't do my Vader mask yet, I thought I'd run a few tests first.
So , I'm struggling, first problem, my fault bought cheap brushes, and way to small, going to sort that out tomorrow.however my biggest problem, is the pt39, just doesn't go on very well...starts to thicken very quickly, and on my few test pieces it just didn't go n well at all.
So simple question, what exactly is THE best way to get nice smooth PLA finishes , I've got stuff for acetone baths, or do you have anything better, or a better way to do this PT39.
I do plan to smooth then paint with acrylic paints for most if my prints, so I do think the Acetone bath is looking favourite so far, even with the white bits after, painting will cure that.
Although I think I will still go with PT for Vader
Awesome video thank for you the information! I will be looking into this for my current project once I have finished doing all the clean up work and sanding that I need to do.
What happened to the printed lines? Does it get smoothed out, dissolved.? Does the shininess detract from the lines but they're still there?
Have you tried placing a spray on finish after ?
Good work, thanks! So you have used this method successfully on PLA and ABS, right? How about nylon?
I bought PT-39 (here in the U.S.) via Amazon Prime, $13 for four oz. Seems to be working well, though I'm doing a lot of trial and error to get the right thickness applied. Some of my models end up with little pits in the resin where it apparently didn't fill -- I'm thinking that's because I put it on too thick overall, but perhaps you've got some thoughts on this?
Just what I was looking for! Thank you so much.
Is this good for models made with PLA Filaments?
Great idea! I’m actually experimenting with adding magic sculpt to a base 3D print (not very detailed) in order to do the details in the epoxy clay.
Did your print require any sanding, because my print has many crevices and I wouldn't be able to sand those areas.
Thank you, handy tip, the effect looks great. Might try the acetone method first but I will definitely keep this in mind.
How is the epoxy when you want to sand it?
Of course it will loose the shine, but not a problem if you want to paint it.
your count down is thee BEST!!!...I CANT STOP LAUGHING...THANK YOU!!!
Does it work with Naylon and PLA 3d Printed objects or just ABS?
Great vídeo, can i use actual Epoxy resin?
Would finishing parts with epoxy make them food grade?
What layer height was that printed in? 0.4mm?
Smoothing a “pre-melted” model may not have been the best example, as it is beneficial to see how application of epoxy will “round out” sharp details, but otherwise thanks for an extremely helpful presentation!
Maybe use a model that doesn't look like it's melted next time :)
Something with clearly intentional details. Maybe a propeller/fan.
what's wrong with that? :D but it fits the metly look perfetly!
This design is from star wars the force awakens. This is obviously after Darth Vader's helmet burned.
Good video, and good tips. Maybe I can evade those fails, when I get my 3d printer.
Dude, the countdown is the best part!!
Does it work with PLA & ABS ?
Can it be painted after doing that?
Very nicely done video, looks like something I'll be trying out myself very soon.
Thanks for the info!
I want to know can I use any epoxy ?
Is it just the flammability of acetone that makes you prefer this over acetone?
Thanks for the tips :)
Useful to have another finishing method under my belt
I just bought 3.97$ (USA) tube of Gorilla Glue epoxy at Walmart. It seems to do the same exact thing this stuff does for a lot less. I'm waiting for it to dry now, then I'm going to paint over it perhaps. The trick seems to be getting the layer of epoxy on it not too thick and not too thin. Still playing around with it to see how it works best...
Tip# 11 - This is fantastic for glossy finishes. However, if you want a matte finish, then hit the model with some Army Painter Matte Varnish or similar spray-on varnishes:. Krylon Matte, Citadel Matte Varnish). Yes, a brush-on solution may work as well, but it's easier to get a uniform look with spray cans versus risking striation texture while applying a brush-on solution.
you think i can use diggers fiberglass resin but without the fiberglass mats just the liquid resin and catalyst though the resin sets prettttttty quick i learned that from mixing too much :( but hey i know now
Thank you! Great tips for me
Quedo bien perron. Gracias por el tip. 👍👍👍👍👍
Nice resualt, may be I will try it. For now im using aerosol varnish, works almost like acetone
Hi. What exactally is the product that you putted after the resin? It sounds to me something like "radna", but I really don't know what it is (you don't showed the packing) and I'm a brasillian, man. Probably it has another name in Brasil, but I don't know. Thanks for this video I liked so much!
+Infinite Tutoriais Resins often come in two parts, the resin itself, and a hardening agent, or hardener. The second tube is the hardener.
Awesome! :) What kind of filament were you using? ABS or PLA or something else... ???
Thanks! :)
Did you make your Super Metroid print or did you get it from somewhere?
So do you have a link for pal smooting?
I'm using Acryllic glue for my PLA prints! Does anyone know how well the lines dissappear? I figured since the glue is clear they would still show up.
Does this work with PLA prints, and can you paint directly over the coating, or would it still need some sort of primer?
I can't say that I've tried it with PLA. I would say that the 3D Print would need priming first :)
Does it work with epoxy only? How about with nautical polyester resin? Anybody tried it?
Anybody know if the project works on bigger projects like helmets?
I strongly recommend nitrile rubber gloves when working with epoxies, latex and polyurethane won't offer sufficient barrier against allergizing substances in epoxy. There may be far more serious consequences to frequent epoxy skin contact than sticky fingers...
Karri Koivusalo if you work with low voltage electronics today you have to take a course in how to handle epoxy because of serious allergic reactions people have had in the past, i worked with epoxy in a course like that, with gloves AND a screen between me and the epoxy (like a box they also use in chemestry).. But i've seen SO many people from the USA just using it with their fingers, even commercials promoting products where they use the epoxy with their fingers fx. epoxy pudding.
I really hope that nobody prints out a toy for their kid and use epoxy on it....
+Karri Koivusalo I'm a professional pattern maker and have worked with epoxy for a number of years in the model maker business. If I has to use it in the shop I'm required by law to have a three week licensed course to use it. Working with epoxy involves very good fume extractor, gloves and goggles.
It is beyond me why it is legal to sell to private people at all. It is very carcinogenic and allergenic to all mammals...
I'd take acetone over epoxy any day... Well not really, but I'm sure you get me.
+Jens Sigurdson I'd rather just have better awareness with the hazards concerning use of epoxies, banning them from consumer markets would be a disastrous setback for many hobbyists.
+Jens Sigurdson I worked at a shipyard for a stint and I sealed with epoxy paints for long periods of time with it all over my skin and hair along with other chemicals (I eventually had an allergic reaction and took a few days off) but now I'm a bit worried (I was a temporary worker so they didn't really tell me about hazardous materials and I wasn't given a dust mask till halfway through my stay.) I even accidentally mixed some paint thinner with the epoxy and it solidified right in front of my eyes and released a ton of steam and stuff.
+mokana713 congrats you are now officially allergic to epoxies. You are properly not gonna die tomorrow, but if you keep exposing yourself to epoxy the condition is going to get worse for sure.
I had a coworker that was pretty far in the allergic condition and over a period of less than a year he went from not being able to work in the casting room to not being able to go into the building at all without getting a reaction. Despite we had all the safety in place and the air and dust was monitored, he just could not be in the building - not even the lunch room!
It is surely something you should take seriously and what ever you do don't take a job working with epoxy ever again. This condition is for life, just like any other allergy.
could also try automotive clearcoat (high solids), it has UV protector polymers in it that protects anything under it from UV damage (get what U pay for, so if you want the finish to last dont cheap out). you can run it through a spray gun or brush it on. It's a bit thinner than epoxy but has UV protector in it.
hace you try mixing it with food coloring?
adding the "haadna", lol.
Ragnar lol
Thanks great video. Why did you choose not to use the Smooth On product? Is it more expensive?
+TechWiz Ok, thanks Im going to try it! I wonder if bog standard epoxy resins work?
Not sure what you mean in the title as "safer". The use of gloves is not because it is sticky, but because you will get contact dermatitis from cumulative contact with wet epoxy. It's also a carcinogen, so breathing its fumes is not exactly "safe".
"Safer" is meant to be in terms of Flammability. Everything comes with a risk these days, including printing with ABS. If you look deep enough, the Homogenization process that milk goes through may also cause the release of free radicals which in turn make those whom consume milk, a higher risk to cancer.
I just bought a small metal cabinet to put in my garage and keep it there. Flammable isn't going to cause problems if you store it right and don't give it any reason to catch when you take it out to use it.
Another thing you can try is to fold the hardener into the resin instead of whipping it and trapping a lot of air into the mixture. That's another reason that the mouth section has a white finish instead of being clear. The mixture had too much air, and just hardened that way.
Thanks, I'll try this stuff out. ^^
Loving your videos dude! Keep it up.
that countdown is gold
Is this stuff paintable?
Was the count down really necessary?
First day on your channel... love it!!!
that zap product is used for fiberglassing model aircraft when I start building my pt1 d mustang rc aircraft I will fiberglass it
Thank you! Great advice!
so that was one coat??? i have some statues that have lines in them etc...not as bad as your model though... i am hoping this works... i am pretty sure you can paint model s after this also so you will not see lines through the epoxy ...
Which 3D printer did he use? That was some really bad printing...
In the states Zpoxy is often sold at stores that sell war games. When I worked at WOTC store we sold it there for Warhammer miniatures. So if you can't wait on the mail, a game store is a good place to look.
was that a pla print?
Fantastic alternative! Thanks!
Great vid. Thank you for the advice.
Is it possible to spray paint the epoxy? Could be a really cool finish after the surface is smoothened and would cover the drooling effect ;)
Cool! Thanks a lot!
what is that song called
Very helpful! Thank you.
This is great
and so are you.