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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ต.ค. 2021
- Bo-Katan STL Files: rstyle.me/+cpJ-txL_1FowWy79ig...
I've made a lot of videos on using UV resin to smooth my 3D prints but THIS time I wanted to see just HOW long it takes to smooth a 3D print with uv resin and I'm SUPER pleased. I know this method isn't for everyone but it really does amaze me how quickly I can burn through my backlog of prints this way.
If you're new to using UV resin to smooth your prints, check out my other videos on it below
○ UV Resin Tips + Tricks: • Tips and Tricks for Sm...
○ How to Smooth Your Prints with UV Resin SAFELY: • How to Smooth 3D Print...
SUPPLIES USED
○ Zyltech Filament (I use 1.75mm PLA): www.zyltech.com?aff=81
use code VAULTFOX for 5% off your order!
○ Elegoo ABS-Like Resin: amzn.to/3zzqdvC
○ Disposable Cups: amzn.to/3qvt6ZV
○ UV LED Strip: amzn.to/3jikqEG
○ UV Curing Lights: amzn.to/37FC7HR
○ Blue Shop Towels: amzn.to/3dag4vB
○ 91% Isopropyl Alcohol: amzn.to/3jkB3jj
SAFETY SUPPLIES (a MUST when working with resin!!!)
○ Respirator: amzn.to/35WA7K0
○ Respirator Refills: amzn.to/3bgpzaG
○ Nitrile Gloves: bit.ly/3CGEzLj
○ Safety Goggles: amzn.to/3bIoU1L
LET'S TALK SHOP
instagram: / vaultfox
website: www.vaultfox.net/supplies
business inquiries ONLY: vaultfox @ vaultfox.net
MY FILMING EQUIPMENT
○ Sony ZV-1: amzn.to/3sEFesN
○ Wide Angle Attachment for ZV-1: amzn.to/3zd4b0S
○ SD Card: amzn.to/2UHH0g5
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apologies for looking.a hot mess in this video (who knew rubbing in sunscreen was just not in the cards for me that day) but I hope it was at least a bit insightful to see the whole smoothing process :) let me know if you try it out!
Arhamperez Love 😘 💋 ❤
LOL i thought it was cute
A thin layer of resin will cure in literally a minute or less. I use a UV flashlight on mine and only do a quick pass with it. Leaving it outside is also a good option, especially if you want to get a production line going and work on something else in the meantime. I personally like to sand between each coat of UV resin. Sometimes you can end up with tiny air bubbles in the resin then need to do another pass anyways. Doing it 3 layers then sanding is also fine though. With those high spots on the top of the helmet I usually take those out with a heavy grit (80-100) before even starting with the resin.
Have you tried mixing resin with baby powder? It will thicken it. Which is good for filling in small seams, little pit holes, etc.
Great thanks
that N7 helmet tho...💯💯
Some things Ive been doing that have really helped with hiding layer lines is the using the adaptive layers setting in Cura. Also some things that really help with keeping the mess to a minimum in my garage is a large ridgid shop vac connected to my sander. It is life changing to have the dust go immediately into the vacuum and the garage doors can be down and I dont need to wear dust mask.
A couple things I've noticed is that hiding all your seams on the back of the print will help keep any blobs/imperfections in one area. Also doing an initial sanding before adding resin would probably help as well with knocking down any high spots
I use elegoo resin as well, I believe I have a gray one. I then use a uv lamp light for about two or three minutes over the entire helmet. I don’t use isopropyl alcohol until the 3rd layer has cured. I find that it helps the layers stick well together. Then I wet sand with a higher grit sand paper. The smoother you brush on your resin, then the less sanding you have to do, if any. Also let the resin settle for a bit( if you haven’t brushed it on so heavy), that way it levels itself out. So I spend maybe 20 minutes doing all the resin stuff and it comes out super shiny and smoothe.
Also I use bondo and glazing spot putty just to get any major holes or imperfections
Thank you. You did get a lot of work done in that time. 👌
thanks! still kinda amazed
Nice video
Thanks!
@@vaultfox never tried resin before on my prints , normally use a section of files. Some wet and dry sanding and then some primer/filler, then abit more sanding. A good trick I’ve used was to fill the part joins up with what ever filler you use. Then go sand it , then go over it with primer and if you can still see where the parts join together , I’ll run alittle bit of superglue down the seam. Wait until it goes alittle tacky then dry sand over it, the excess primer that comes off from sanding gets caught by the glue and fills the gap, you may need to repeat acouple of times that step but boy does it give you a great finish too. You may use abit of sand paper too but totally worth it for the finish you get.
Thank you so much for this, we're starting to make some clone commando armor and we really had no idea how to smooth the prints out.
You're welcome! Good luck on your build, I have some other UV resin videos as well that go over everything in better detail and call out the safety measures you'll need to take when working with resin as well!
Thanks for clarifying the sanding grit. Very helpful.
You're welcome! I was. ... very confused when my stuff was getting all gross and balled up with 40-80 grit ... some others mention it works so I can only assume it varies by the resin you use?
Great tips, been considering printing a mando helmet and wondering how to smooth it out, and i do believe this is the way
Thanks! I'll be smoothing out my husband's mando the same way as well so (hopefully) I'll have a video on that soon ... I'll just have to be careful with the details on the top to not get resin in there, or at least not a lot
Nice. I saw your other video about people who accuse 3D printer users of cheating and its nonsense. When you 3D print you get a rough shape with much less effort, but you have a lot of finishing to do, so its just that your backloading all your labor.
Thank you! And exactly, so many people think 3D printing is a "set and forget" type deal ... it's such a bizarre stance to take but then again, people used to think the same thing about using worbla lol
Great video was always curious how rushed it could be but haven’t had a lot of experimentation time with getting ready to move
Thanks! and hey, moving is uhhhh a lil more important than putzing with resin lol
Awesome video, keep it up you are such a huge help
Thank you!!! I'm glad to help
always motivating to watch your videos
aw man thank you so much!!!
thanks Great job
thank you for watching!
Need to try this, hopefully I’ll still get sunny days in Fresno….
good luck! just keep an eye on em if they’re PLA, wouldn’t want you warping them on my account (I’m lucky in PA to have sunny days but not crazy heat)
Interesting video right about my actual concern about smoothing my print.
On a side note, I've already left some pieces in the sun for almost an hour, and I have the impression that they have undergone deformations (especially the face plate of an iron man helmet which does not quite fit with the other parts now).
oof, yeah that's one thing I have made note of in other videos but if you're using something like PLA and live in a hotter climate (I live in PA so even when it's sunny out it's not baking the ground or anything) you can see warping. It's probably better for you to either use a cure box or only leave your items out to cure for a few minutes. I've had other people tell me their resin cures quick (which by design, it should)
I use a lint free tissue (Safetiss brand) instead of shop towel for this kind of job. A bit more expensive, but worth it for missing out on the heartbreak of bits in your finish.
What printer did you use to print that helmet?
Great video as always. Can I ask why you went away from using the UV LED chamber you made and went with just curing the resin in sunlight?
The helmet is fairly large, I assume the fit would be tight in the chamber :)
Thanks! And I've been putting stuff outside mostly because I've been using the resin on a lot of larger pieces at once and to take advantage of the sunlight we have before fall hits. I've been using the cure box for smaller stuff but for all of these armor bits it's just easier
my cure box isssss about 12 x 12 x 16 I believe so it would fit, it's just more efficient to put it outside while I still can
Thank you for this awesome and very informative video.
I'm working on a 1/6 scale car and plan to paint the parts. I may try out this ABS UV resin method. Did the resin or alcohol smell linger at all after closing the garage door? Or do you have good ventilation in there with the door closed?
Hi, geeting into the ideo of purchasing a 3d printer, so looking for inspiration and so thank you for that! Why the resin in the first place? Can you just not sand the filament as is?
thank you! and funny enough, I don't use this method anymore but basically the resin filled most of the lines in and would be easier to sand (though the tradeoff is it's hard to work with safely) but nowadays I just sand down the raw print with anywhere between 60-80 grit and hit it with a Duplicolor high build filler primer and keep sanding from there til I like the finish. One of these days I'll get to an actual tutorial of that!
How was the adhesion between the 2 different material. UV resin doesn't seem to like to stick to things.
seemed to work fine for me, I think the key for me was wiping each cured layer down with isopropyl alcohol before applying the next
First great video. I wanna say I've watched a few 3D youtubers and you are the first I've seen do and explain uv resin. I am very intrigued on using it. I'm on the hunt for a new 3D printer. Looking at the Ender 5 plus. I sold my ender 3 pro when I moved from Ohio to Nebraska!!! Woooooohoo best choice ever. Any ways good job again.
Great tutorial. I will say that however yes you can ruin a print leaving it out in the sun too long. Depending on the temperature the print can warp if it's PLA. Learned that the hard way. Also working on testing different resin amounts and curing times. From my limited experience one layer and a few seconds in UV light isn't enough. Paint and primer won't adhere properly and you'll have to sand it all down again anyway.
Loving your videos! I want to use the UV resin curing technique now on my Mando armor, but I've already used filler primer & minor low grit sanding on some pieces. Is it ok to add the Resin layer over the filler primer or does it have to be applied only to a bare 3D PLA print?
Aw thank you so much! I've had success putting the UV resin over top filler primer BUT only the 2-in-1 filler/sandeable primer. I've done it with just the type that says "filler primer" and it doesn't really like that as much, it's almost like I'm just moving the filler primer around?
Great video. How much does the resin smell? Like can I use it in an apartment then take it outside?
Thanks! I actually have a really crap sense of smell due to some allergy meds I’m on, so I’m not the best judge on that HOWEVER smelling them or not, they are toxic to breathe in so it’s best to try and use it in a garage or a well-ventilated area and then take outside to cure
What type of respirator are you using , great techniques
thanks! I use a 3M respirator with these filters amzn.to/3IFssR1
Curious if you've had any issues with parts warping when you cure them in the sun?
I like in PA so I'm usually OK to leave stuff out in the sun, but I have had it happen. Normally nothing too bad that I can't fix with a heat gun, but if you're worried about it you can always make a DIY curing box
what grit do you use for wet sanding, and is there a basic guide for it?
I usually start with 220 then go up to 500, 1000 and usually finish with something like 1200 but you can go pretty high with it, depends on the finish you want in the end. Since Bo is gonna be weathered up I'm not too worried about smooth/shinyness and I don't know of any real "guides" for it, I just kind of picked up random tips here and there but I'm sure there are so youtube tutorials on it!
I've been using wood glue and hand sanding to do my prints and it takes hours. This looks much, much better, I'm going to have to try this! Where do I get this resin??
I get it off amazon, the specific one I use is linked in the description!
@@vaultfox Thank You!!!
I only have access to a 3D printer, dremel tool and sand paper. Making a halo helmet for my cousin and a mando helmet for me. Wish me luck.
Good luck!!
Is this a better method than bondo
So I’m just getting to where I want to post process some prints and I’m wondering why you’re doing resin before filler primer and not just the filler primer?
The UV resin eliminates the appearance of layer lines a lot faster than multiple coats of filler primer. Same concept as the bondo spot putty or wood filler
Kinda along what Tom said, the filler primer really doesn't do much in the ways of getting rid of layer lines. If you wanted to do just filler primer, you can usually sand down the layer lines with a mouse sander first and hit it with the primer, but this always took me ages. The resin fills in the majority of the layer lines so you just end up smoothing the resin down to get it smooth
Cool, thanks that gives me more to consider.
Which resin you used?
After the sanding you say you wash and clean the helmet and then put it outside. What did you wash it with?
Just washed it off with regular tap water
@@vaultfox thanks
I'm definitely going to have to try this method on my new mando helmet. How much does the resin usually set you back if you don't mind me asking?
Cost wise? A bottle of it is 30 bucks and I've been using the same bottle of mint green resin since around mid-April of this year. I actually want to make a video on how many pieces I've sanded and filled with just that bottle alone but for some reference it's already got me through my Bo Katan armor and Mando armor with tons to spare
@@vaultfox not bad at all then, seems you can stretch a bottle quite far. It's probably cheaper than me constantly buying spray putty that last all of five minutes!
Whats the pros and cons of using resin to smooth vs bondo?
that's a video I'm considering making tbh but for me, the pros are it helps me get prints smooth way faster than bondo and is less messy when it comes to sanding. A lot of the cons are focused around the safety of handling resin properly and it can be pretty messy to apply.
Bondo starts curing once you mix it, so you have a limited window to work with it and apply it to your piece. It also goes on a lot thicker, and I've found it is very quick to clog sandpaper when you're trying to sand.
UV resin goes on much thinner, so it's great for filling gaps and layer lines. It doesn't cure until you expose it to UV light, so you don't necessarily have to be in a big rush when applying it, but being thinner, it will run if you apply it too heavy, so keep that in mind. Compared to bondo, UV resin doesn't clog sandpaper nearly as much when sanding, but it does produce a very fine dust, so wearing a respirator is an absolute must, because that dust is some toxic stuff.
@@vaultfox thanks for your reply. I may try both methods and see which I like best.
I thought in your earlier videos you sanded and spray painted in between each layer of UV resin. Did you decide to cut out those steps??
Yep, for this one wanted to see how it worked out with multiple layers of resin and then primer. I usually put primer on when I want to see what needs more fill/sand work and I knew one coat of resin wouldn’t do it for this rough of a print
@@vaultfox Awesome!! Thanks for the quick reply!!! I bought all the supplies you suggested through your Amazon links and I’m trying this method tomorrow on 3D printed Mando armor I purchased from various sellers on eBay and Etsy! It’s supposed to be my husband’s Halloween costume (our baby is going to be Grogu!). I’ll let you know how it goes! I think we are capable - my husband has a woodworking shop in our garage and I’m pretty crafty, so hopefully we can pull it off in time for Halloween!!! We are big procrastinators lol
I'm guessing that while you've got plenty on sun in your area, its not actually too hot? (especially if the helmet is black)
Cuz in my country, 5 minutes in the sun is enough to really soften pla and I end up with sagged dents and swelling.
I'm lucky in that where I live, it'll get pretty bright but the sun isn't 'too' hot for the PLA, if that makes any sense. But this is one of those examples where if it's too hot out in the sun where you are, I'd recommend making some sort of UV curing chamber to avoid your PLA melting in the sun.
@@vaultfox I put off making that for some time. But I guess it's a much safer option for me.
Thanks for the tip!
Wondering if you've seen this method of smoothing and have you tried it? th-cam.com/video/CxjqQLAy5TU/w-d-xo.html
I have! I've never tried it though but it looks like it works a lot better than just using straight bondo from the tube.
So I have a couple of questions if you don't mind. First off are all those layers of resin really making a difference because it seems like it's almost the same amount of sanding you would do with or without them. Maybe that's just my perception.
Also why would you close your garage door when working with a resin? You should have a highly ventilated area and I would think it would be better to have the door open to get a fresh breeze coming in.
Finally, you're brave letting things cure outside. I live in Orlando and if I did that I would have to first sand through the layer of bugs that had landed on it.
Just to be transparent, I no longer use this method for smoothing prints ... but when I did, I closed the garage door only when applying the resin as the small bit of ambient light I was getting from it being open caused the resin to cure on me. I was always wearing a respirator and proper PPE while I did that, even if it wasn't ideal (and this was a big reason I stopped using it altogether). As for curing outside, I'm in Pennsylvania so the sun rarely gets hot enough to melt the PLA when I cure outside
Clearly a little late for this, but starting at a very low grit to start with and working your way up to a higher (more fine) grit is a great way to get rid of the worst layer lines or other print defects. It feels awful at first marking up your print, but unless you're filling deep grooves with some other material, you gotta just aggressively sand with low grit to get that uniform texture. This would all be pre-resin.
I know I said I was breaking up with bondo awhile ago and going to work with uv resin. 😂
My lack of a respirator has kept me from really working with uv resin. Aside from one time where I chose to work with it in my garage at like 3am with roughly 5 cloth masks. Lesson learned, be more like VaultFox 😂
Oh man, I totally get it. Resin has worked great for me but it is TOXIC and won’t work for everyone and sometimes is more trouble than it’s worth! But yessssss if you’re gonna really go for it you have to get a respirator, can’t remember if it was this vid or an earlier one but I mentioned how I used resin without one for about … five minutes? And I was already dizzy and headachy.
I actually let my resin cure for a minute or less for the bottom layers. Then my last layer I cure for another minute or so. Wash in alcohol. Then I'll put the piece in the sun while I'm cleaning up the mess which is maybe 5 or 10 minutes. Wash in alcohol again and then sand it with 80 grit. Spray filler primer and then sand, sand, sand until it's smooth.
That curing time sounds way quicker and simpler than what I did, I'll give it a go on some of the last pieces I have lying around for Bo!
@@vaultfox I forgot to mention I do give the piece a sand with 80 grit before I put any resin on.
Has anyone tried sanding before resin with like 80 or so and then resin. I have a feeling that might help?
I mention in the video and previous ones that 80 grit ended up being too rough for my particular resin and ended up creating more work for me, but I’ve seen others have success with soooo I have no idea
@@vaultfox i thought you sanded 80 after the first layer. i was meaning before any resin like right after printing to knock down some of the scattered dots
Quick sand prior to resin is the proper thing to do and saves time
Nice video but you pooled a lot on there and caused more work for yourself with all the build up in the ridges and bubbles, more efficient to do a thin layer use flash light move on to next section uv flashlight, etc less sanding in the end
I don’t know why my 3D prints are coming out wavy?
not sure exactly what you mean by wavy, but judging by your limited description your bed may not be completely level?
@@vaultfox Sorry I didn’t explain it really, whenever I print something big the 3D print always curves into waves. It looks like it’s rippling from the top of the print kind of.
Why not just use a resin printer?
there's a bunch of reasons, but resin printers capable of printing large helmets/armor are expensive, not to mention the cost of resin to print those things. FDM printing a helmet costs me about 12 bucks in materials, where a resin helmet could easily eat up a 30 bottle of resin in one go. resin printed helmets and armor are also super fragile, and as someone who's already pretty clumsy on the best of days, would not be the best material for me to work with. it's also heavier as well
Okay got you. Makes sense. Thanks for the reply.