I’m looking for 10 people who would like to share what they are working on! I want to learn about cool projects and startups. If that interests you and want to be interviewed on my channel, fill out the form on: jakegrim.com/chat
"My secret to no more 3D printed layer lines." A tool we all know, fuzzy skin, is your secret? . You start the video looking for a method for smooth finishes and you get sidetracked, you end up with "your secret", fuzzy skin in bamboo studio, are you kidding us, are you joking or are you lost and wasting our time? Look up information on an automatic sanding method called polishing or rotary drum sanding.
Yeah. The method I describe is called rotary drum polishing, also known as vibration or abrasive rotational molding. In this process, the object to be sanded is placed inside a rotating container (drum), along with an abrasive medium, such as ceramic beads, plastic, metal, or even natural materials such as small stones. The drum rotates or vibrates, causing the abrasive particles to rub against the surface of the object, removing surface material, deburring, smoothing edges, or providing a uniform finish. This process is widely used in industries such as metalworking, jewelry, and manufacturing, to: 1. Deburring: Remove burrs or material residue on metal or plastic parts. 2. Polishing: Achieve smooth, shiny surfaces. 3. Cleaning: Remove rust or impurities. Advantages - High efficiency for processing multiple parts simultaneously. - Ideal for complex geometries, where manual methods would be ineffective. - Can be automated, reducing human labor. Disadvantages - Can cause excessive wear on delicate edges. - Not suitable for extremely precise finishes or very large parts. It is easy to build and as sanding material you can use a hammer to crush silicon carbide stones to sharpen knives, put them inside the rotating drum to polish the printed plastic parts. This method does not It is not suitable for flexible TPU or very large parts. To reduce banding, place the printer on the floor or on a cement table, normal tables vibrate too much. Use a 0.2 mm nozzle, calibrate the xyz belts well, and level the printer well. heated bed. Dry the filament below 20% humidity. Print at low speed, acceleration and jerk. Secure the printer to the table with L-brackets and rubber. Put the plastic spool on the table, not on the bridge of the filament. printer. Greetings.
It's so charming how he presents the feature designed by the manufacturer as some kind of secret solution, as if he invented it. If he had bothered to watch a few videos on the subject, he wouldn't have had to go to all the trouble of "inventing" the fuzzy skin.
@@TerraMp That's disingenuously arrogant of you. The lad had to work through his problem by 'trial and error' and he clearly admits it took him a long time and hard work before he 'discovered' that a particular 'fuzzy' setting worked for him. Your sarcastic criticism is shameful. Where is your praise for the novel and useful invention he made?
@@TerraMpbut "I would have never been able to create this incredible invention" really got me 😂. Bro took all the responsibilities for this printer setting.
I enjoy your gentle nature and soft speaking. Way too many people who make videos are very loud and have harsh editing styles. It’s nice to see something a little different.
I've been using fuzzy skin for a couple years now, and I think other slicers also have the setting too. as for tolerances, you can use modifier blocks to either enforce, or block fuzzy skin anywhere on your model. I use this for the phone mounts I designed and produce for my car. Fuzzy skin is an awesome feature, and even though I already knew about it, knew how to use it, and use it on a regular basis, I continued watching your video because of how well you made your video. It is structured very well, and easy to understand for even the most novice of printers, which I appreciate, and wanted to say GREAT JOB!
Thank you SO SO much! You put the biggest smile on my face :) I tried to make this video entertaining and informative for beginners. A bunch of expert level 3D printing people posted negative comments, but that’s okay thanks to people like you being kind and positive. If you haven’t already, you should consider joining our discord (link in the description) of other makers. I’ll be getting on there this afternoon to catch up on the conversation. Now I’m going to go for a run and exercise :) See ya around!!
I've been using fuzzy on my prints for the last few weeks and I do like the results. I make alot of items with TPU and the the flexibility and fuzzy makes a great combo really gives my prototypes a next level feel. Great video thanks for sharing your journey!
I haven't tried TPU and Fuzz yet but it sounds cool! What kind of stuff are you printing? If you want to share pictures of the prints, you can post them in our Discord linked in the description!
Same here, I tried fuzzy on the Ender-3 v2 a couple months ago for a TPU button and it came out great both in look and feel. So I experimented a bit on PLA. My parameters of choice are 0.1, 0.1. It just gives it a silky roughness, like finished wood.
I for one appreciated the story. I understand some people just wanted the single phrase “use fuzzy skin” but if you are a maker, these are all relevant steps/ideas you would try. Probably saved a lot of people a lot of time. Definitely was helpful for me!
I'm glad to hear that you found the video helpful and appreciated the additional context provided in the story. Exploring different steps and ideas can indeed save time and offer valuable insights, especially for makers looking to optimize their 3D printing process. If you have any further questions or need more assistance, feel free to ask!
I agree that the troubleshooting process was interesting and helpful, but I would have appreciated if he said the solution at the beginning, and if he expounded more upon the troubleshooting process regarding his resin printer and Blender.
Context is important, sometimes you might want a quick solution to get back to testing though. I appreciate the story too, I'm only a curious passer-by though
Fuzzy skin is the one-for-all recipe to take away the 3d-printed look. We use it on all our products from the beginning - but: It comes at the cost of increased print-time! Always a good idea to apply it only to visible surfaces by using modifier blocks
Love the video. I think the best part of 3D printing is the design and problem solving! Seeing an idea sitting on my table or workbench always blows me away. I don't care if it's a small custom poker chip or a large set of inserts for my board games. The fact that after a few hours or days something that didn't exist before I started does now is so cool! And the ironing out kinks until it's just right is awesome! Love the shared knowledge. Goodluck in all you do!
Thank you so much! I’m glad you enjoyed the video! Feel free to share pictures or videos of your projects in our discord linked in the description! It’s so cool to turn ideas into real life things! I hope to see you around with future videos!
Cura and Prusa Slicer (which bambu studio is built on) also have fuzzy skin. I'm glad to see more people using it and im glad you made a video about it (and the product journey), it has been available for years and barely seems to be mentioned.
That’s what people been telling me that it’s been around for a while. I think it does need more attention because I never heard about it until recently. It’s a really helpful tool if you put it in the right scenario!
@@jakemgrim If you plan to cast the materials they make casting resins. I would think you would want to go that route but Ive never used those. I have a Phrozen Mini 8ks and I use the Phrozen Aqua 8K 3D Printing Resin. And get no warping or anything once I have it dialed in.
Very well made video and the fuzz looks great! For those that are looking to hide layer lines (from Title of the video) you may want to revisit the resin 3D printing. There are many resins out there that have varying degrees of strengths and some eliminate warping. Another idea would be to create a silicone mold from a sanded part if you wanted a non-fuzzy surface.
.3mm on both is what I found what looked best to me as well when I was testing things too last week. I've got a K1 Max and Neptune 4+ over the last few months, and have really been enjoying designing and creating things for people. It is really cool what we can do with 3D printing now a days.
That’s cool we both came up with 0.3! I’d love to see the projects your working on if you want to post pictures in our discord (linked in the description)!
I'm glad the fuzzy skin solution works for you. I'm a consultant engineer who develops medical devices. I have several resin and FDM printers and use whatever process seems the most appropriate for a part. If you ever need smooth, very detailed surfaces try using Sunlu ABS-Like resin which is also relatively inexpensive. Until switching to this resin I had many printing failures due to warped parts. I believe the slight flexibility of the cured resin helps eliminate most of the stresses introduced during the printing process which leads to warped parts. I'm sure there are suitable resins from other manufacturers, but I had little success using the brittle standard resins.
the worse offender imo is high speed resin, it is kinda marketed as general purpose, but it's far from it, it is very hard, which is great because it is dimensionally stable, but it also means it's glass-like and will shatter if dropped, it's fast curing, but if you're printing with the door and/or window open, it will get skin within 30s if you lift the cover on the printer. also you absolutely need to process it indoor or at night otherwise it dries while you're removing it from the bed.
hey jake, just found your channel through this video and i love what you’re all about. the information was given in a really easily digestible anger and the production of the video was great! definitely gonna subscribe
Thank you so much! I just got done replying to a comment telling me everything I did wrong. Your comment made me smile :) Feel free to join our discord channel to share projects and ideas with other makers! I look forward to seeing you around new friend!
Really cool that you didnt give up on it! You can printed this on resin printer, warping can be resolve with better supports and other orientation, britelness can be solved by using different resin (like abs from elegoo, tough AnyCubic or some mix) or settings (lesser curing time). But i dont think resin print wouldnt work for commercial product, cuz if its undercured it could be toxic, if overcured it would be too brittle, pref you need to paint then so no sunlight would desroy youre product. BTW love texture on fineshed clock!
Thank you so much for taking the time to provide feedback! I would like to try abs resin some time! I’m currently trying to print a statue of Walt Disney in resin to display in my lab. I hope you enjoyed the video and hope to see you again next week :) P.S. Let me know if you build anything awesome this week!
@@jakemgrim What they said: warping/breaking off the supports is all about orientation. You don't want wide, flat areas parallel to the bed; it will stick HARD and tend to break off the supports--or, if you're using a magnetic print bed (which makes life so much easier), it can pull your bed enough to shift it off its magnet. You want the smallest cross section printing at time--so, I'd turn your clock body about 45 degrees, so no one side is parallel to the bed. Play with it a bit and you'll get a feel for the ideal angle.
@@gpweaver that makes sense now! I always wondered why resin prints were printed in strange angles. Now I know! I’ll give it a shot! Hope to see you around for future videos because I love feedback like yours :)
@@jakemgrimYou could maybe start by covering fresh topics. I was hesitant to watch but was hoping for info I had never seen. It felt like I was wasting my time rehashing something I see in my feed a lot lately. Fwiw, you're doing a great job on lighting, audio and all around production value.
I recognize this is 8 months old but for parts that need mechanical actuation you can use a modifier shape in orca or bambu studio and disable fuzzy skin within that volume, you can also use it for aesthetic alterations, certain parts with more or less fuzz, etc.
@@jakemgrim Using the modifier, it is possible to apply a fuzzy skin only on the outer contour of the part, while using the 'contour' option makes it fuzzy even on the inside.
The modifier feature is like using a support blocker. It allows you to create a "zone" with custom settings. In your case I would recommend creating an obj or stl that is the exact same OD as you clock but solid, and just reduce the x and y by .1-.5mm and Raise by .1-.5mm that way you can import it with your model and it's already dimensioned properly.
I feel like people often times forget that you don't have to go to a massive injection molding company when you need to mass produce parts like this. There are countless ways to make your own molds for small scale productions so that all you have to do is make 1 "master" by 3D printing, and then sanding and priming it smooth, then using that master to make as many molds as you need.
People are acting like this is supposed to be a tutorial rather than a story. This is about the journey someone went through vs just telling you how to get an affect. As someone who does 3d modeling, I loved this video. It resonates with me on trying 80 different ways to eventually finding a solution. Love the video.
Thanks! I love the scientific approach. I've played around with fuzzy skin before but it didn't look as good as yours so now I'm eager to try more combos of settings. I agree that it looks professional. It looks like it's purposely like that for grip or kinda futuristic in a way.
Bruh… I’ve used this setting before as a simple test, but it never thought about using it to get rid of the layer lines… valuable insight you gave me, thank you!
This is an excellent video. I'm learning 3D printing for car parts, and wanted to create dash parts that fit in without that "3D Printed" look. You addressed the issue perfectly and concisely. There's clearly a lot of data and time gone into this process - the editing is first rate. Thank you for this video, for taking the time and care.
Thank you so much for your kind words! I'm thrilled to hear that the video was helpful for your project. Creating dash parts without the typical "3D Printed" look can definitely elevate the overall aesthetic of your car interior. If you have any questions or need further assistance as you continue your 3D printing journey, feel free to reach out. Best of luck with your car parts project, and happy printing!
Little precision about tolerences, where pieces connect you can actually simply tell the slicer to print this part without any fuzz, for a bezel for example or a ridge. so you don't have to change your tolerences :)
That's a great point! In many slicer software programs, including Cura and others, you can indeed customize where the fuzzy skin effect is applied on your model. By specifying areas where you want the surfaces to be smooth without fuzz, such as connection points or precise tolerances like bezels or ridges, you can maintain the necessary fit and finish without altering the overall dimensions of the model. This way, you can enjoy the benefits of fuzzy skin for most of the print while preserving critical tolerances where needed. Thanks for highlighting this useful feature!
That's great to hear! Fuzzy skin can indeed provide a smoother and more aesthetically pleasing finish compared to traditional layer lines. It's an excellent technique for enhancing the appearance of your 3D prints. If you have any more questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask!
Thanks for sharing this information - as a play-around-with-printers guy who also happens to be an engineer who works in manufacturing full-time, one thing I'll say is: you went to the wrong shops to quote your injection molded parts. The Xometrys and ProtoLabs of the world are fast and easy, and if they're not cheap enough for you there's other options out there.
Great video! It surely contributes not only to avoid extra costs and effort to obtain a final product but also avoid a lot of polution with sanded microplastics and other harmful chemicals!
Thank you! I'm glad you found the video helpful. Indeed, by using techniques like fuzzy skin and resin printing, we can minimize the need for extensive post-processing methods like sanding, which can produce harmful microplastics and require additional chemicals. It's a win-win situation for both the environment and the final product's quality. If you have any more questions or need further clarification, feel free to ask!
if you ever want to return to maintaining glossy parts without spray paint - another super quick option would be to thin down uv curable nail polish or craft fluid with rubbing alcohol then thinly coat the parts and cure them - you can play with the viscosity proportions of polish to alcohol. I do this with my artificial nails. Not necessarily practical for all situations but I am sure you will run into a customer request eventually in the future asking for metallic or mirror shine products
Thanks for the reply. Not going to change filaments any time soon. Bambu had a sale this weeked for 32% off and free shipping so I bought 4 more rolls of PLA. The printer is in my office inside my house so the med temp is probably 70 degrees and it is on a very stable surface. It is self-calibrating machine (P1S) and the temps are 219/220 c and 55/55c. Just a hobby for me and not a business so learning as I go and when I have time. Lots to learn! Good luck with your business. Again, thanks for your video, Tony
You're welcome, Tony! It sounds like you're enjoying your journey into 3D printing as a hobbyist, and it's great to hear that you took advantage of a good deal on filament. Learning as you go is part of the fun, and it sounds like you're off to a great start with your BambuLab P1S printer. If you ever have any questions or need advice along the way, feel free to reach out. Happy printing, and best of luck with your projects!
One of the most helpful videos I have seen in a while, the fact that my A1 is my main 3d printer and I have been looking to get this effect on some of my prints is amazing as I randomly came across this video. Any additional tips you have for bambu slicer in video format would be amazing, your delivery is bang on and easy to understand !!
Thank you so much for your positive comment! It made me smile! I try to get better with each video I post. I need to dig around in Bambu Studio before I make another 3D printing video (about a month or so). My goal is one video like this per week, so I hope you stick around for future videos! The next few will be about microcontrollers, prototyping, and creating a product you can sell to customers. But have no fear, there will definitely be more 3D printing videos to come!
Also also, if you want to share pictures and videos of your projects, I hope you consider joining our Discord community! I love seeing what other people make! The link is in the description :)
on the part of fuzzy skin and the tolerances. you can add a modifier cube or what it fit and just float it only on the outside areas were you want fuzzy skin. This way in your model only the outside is with a fuzzy skin and the inside is normal which now saves time and the tolerances will stay.
You're welcome! Congratulations on your upcoming purchase of the Bambu Lab X1C! It's an exciting journey to embark on, and I'm glad this information could be helpful to you. If you have any questions or need further assistance as you start your 3D printing journey, feel free to ask. Happy printing!
This is actually really useful advice. I've glanced at the setting before but never really considered trying it as no one really suggested it and I figured it created actual fuzzy skin in the form of intentional stringing. Thanks! I'll definitely give this a go on our X1C soon.
Glad to hear this helps! If you want to share pictures or videos of your projects you can post them in our discord linked above! Hope to see you around!
This is awesome! I just got a 3D printer it’s flash forge ADV 3 Lite and trying to invent/ have fun with it. Got the most basic set up ever but it’s a start! Happy for you man! Great job earned a Sub.🎉
Why are there so many haters in these comments? People moan when its vague, yet they will moan when its thorough explanation. Nothing wrong with documenting your trials and errors and letting us know about them. Especially to a noob like me. I appreciate the effort 👌
I personally hate the video, because it is misleading. The part about resin printer being brittle can be just because he didn't UV-light the part after print.
@@sandiegosummer bit dumb seeing as hes showing us his trials and errors and telling us why he made that decision. Of course its because the resin printer wasnt operated correctly. But he wasnt about to spend weeks trying to fix what a filament printer can do instantly with no issues
@@melonpipTo those experienced in printing, it's his attitude. He did the same for the absurd acetone sketch which isn't even remotely close to how ABS is supposed to be smoothed with it. There's no notable fire danger when vapor polishing properly and it's still a very useful option in many cases but he smugly dismisses it. This is a stretched out, misleading video about a setting that is years old and his 'product'. It'd be fine if he actually gave realistic examples of these done properly but instead it's an arrogant presentation about his brilliant money-saving solution. Beginners will think this is great, I've been there. I've also then been very frustrated later when realizing many 'tricks' and suggestions constantly repeated by the community had only wasted a ton of time.
Thanks a lot mate!! Sharing your trial and error process made a huge difference with my own learning process. Kudos and hope you keep doing amazing stuff!!!
I'm just about to buy a 3d printer and have been thinking long and hard how it solve the layer line issue, since that's something that will bug me. Glad this video popped up and thanks for sharing!
There’s a lot of great printers out there! My favorite being Creality and Bambu Lab . It’s a fun adventure once you get started! Check out our Discord (liked in the video description) if you have any questions or want to share your projects once you get started! Hope to see you around!
Awesome Video appreciate your time with the different fuzzy skin settings. I wanted to say that you can eliminate the fuzzy skin from areas that need to fit together with primitive object as a modifier for those areas.
I’ve had my bambu X1-C for a little over a year now. Unfortunately, it sat for almost a year without being used due to not having the time dealing with family issues and moving but now I have a dedicated place and I’ve been printing every weekend. Trying to find useful items to print and solving solutions for things I might have made out of other materials is what really interests me. Nothing I’ve designed and printed so far would really take advantage of a fuzzy finish, but it definitely is something I would like to try at some point. Thanks for making this video, I don’t usually tweak settings unless there is a problem, but this one seems like it could make some of my designs look that much better.
Jake, thank you for taking the time to run these experiments and give others the opportunity to learn from your trial and error. It’s really amazing that you’re providing this value & we get to learn from your mistakes so we can all have better 3D prints 😊
This seems like a great trick to use when printing rock PLA. The fuzzy look not only would hide the printing lines, but it would also contribute to the realism of the figure. Thank you very much for the heads up!
I'm glad to hear that you found the video informative! Sometimes, diving into the details can be helpful for newcomers to understand the process better, even if it means the video is a bit longer. It's essential to provide context and explanations for those who are new to 3D printing, so they can grasp the concepts more easily. If you have any more questions or need further clarification on anything related to 3D printing, feel free to ask!
Your video is really inspiring to me. We have a product that we have had trouble getting off the ground, but just watching your success makes me want to take the next step. Thanks Jake! Great video, I subscribed! :)
Have you tried making Silicone molds? Casting each piece would take less than 15 minutes using 2 part resin that you can pour and cure and you can dye the resin in any color. There are also minimal post processing.
Plus, just like with filament, there are lots of different kinds of resins with different mechanical and other properties. Do the fill/sand process once to get a high-quality master, make a few molds from it, and cast multiple parts at once. Or, have a local machine shop make a suitable mold frame, make an epoxy mold instead of silicone, and use that to do low-volume injection molding yourself. Or use the master to make sand molds and cast it out of Zamak or aluminum. There are all kinds of options that don't take three hours to produce a part.
Good shit jake. For real. As a 3d printer who sands and uses a soldering iron to smooth out all my prints i always thought the fuzz setting (which is on cralitt print as well) would make my prints feel like a teddybear or something. Youre a lifesaveri liked and subscribed because of this video. Good stuff mate
If resin prints are warping it means you are typically over exposing each layer, UV light heats up resin when it starts to cure so the longer you cure them for the more they warp, while parts can warp during the printing process however it boils down to the cure station, over curing the print can cause warping. Also resin is brittle because you are using the wrong resin, try to get UV Tough Resin and or ABS like resin for more durable parts, you can even get resin that is made for practical applications but the resin is more expensive.
@@jakemgrim The resin I use is Anycubic UV Tough Resin and Jayo ABS Like resin. Also some more tips: If the print is sticking to the FEP sheet then you are likely over curing the layers. If the print falls off the supports it could mean the you either don't have enough or strong enough supports, the left speed of the print bed is too fast and or the temperature of the resin is too cold. Resin works best around 25 to 30 degrees C and it allows the resin to quickly flow under the print bed when the print bed is lifted. Because resin is thick when the print bed rises after a layer is cured it creates suction and this suction can cause prints to be ripped off the supports, the colder the resin the more thicker the resin and more suction is created, too hot resin can cause warping and defects in the print. It's annoying but once you get the sweet spot with brand/type of resin you shouldn't have to touch the settings again but you might have to once you try using a different resin or brand of resin... if using a new brand or type of resin after you have found your sweet spot always test the new resin/type of resin with a small print and that way you lower the risk of wasting a whole lot of resin. Most printers don't come with a built in heater so I use a portable mini heater that i have facing the resin printer and I use a laser thermometer to check the resin temp.
Fuzzy skin is a feature that Bambu Studio inherited from Prusa Slicer. Most likely they also got if from someone/somewhere else 😉 It's hard to discover who originally made this. But that does not matter to me. I never looked at this feature or knew how to use it so kudos to you for learning me somet hing new 👍
@@jakemgrim Many people online tend to be very impatient when it comes to the content they consume. They often want instant gratification, that's why it's common to see the statement "I watched a 10 minute video just to learn that you used the Fuzzy Skin tool, you should have said that in 1 minute". There are thousands of videos about the Fuzzy Skin tool in 3D slicers, there's nothing special about that. Most of them are using this tool for it's basic intended purpose (adding a rough texture to the print). It's rare to find people using this tool to solve a very common issue in 3d printing (hiding layer lines), like you did here. I love that you started with a specific problem that many people face in 3d printing, then through experimentation and discovery stumbled upon the Fuzzy Skin tool. After this, you also did your own experiments to find the best settings for this tool. That whole process was educational and fun to watch! The storytelling was the best part about the video.
Man there's a lot of keyboard commandos in this comment section. As someone who just got my first printer (Bambu P1S) I really appreciate this video! Thank you sir!
'keyboard commandos' is very lenient of you, I could think of some descriptors far more blunt for the envious trolls. I think the lad has done very well, has a good courteous manner and his invention is actually a very good idea.
Jake, use mesh cubes to interrupt the fuzzy skin features for parts that need the tolerancing, it's a little tedious, but 30 minutes of that saves you hours in post processing. Especially because fuzzy skin in randomized, and your average variance will vary per part.
Thank you Daniel! I never even considered that! That’s going to save a bunch of time! I hope you stick around for future videos to provide similar feedback to help me improve! You are awesome my friend :)
Bro, before you say that, I would imagine how was your solution becouse I tryed the same in my pieces and its realy works. Its nice becouse you corroborates with the facts. Thanks.
Use modifier with fuzzy skin turned off so you dont need to sand down the fuzzy skin from where you dont want it ( 9:04 ). You can also do what Yagoa said in other comment and make fuzzy skin as a modifier, eg. cube, and overlap that with the places where you want the fuzzy skin to appear.
@jakemgrim waiting for your tutorial Jake!However this night I've experienced the fuzzy with your 0.3 0.3 setting and the result is pretty nice!Thanks!
@@FrankP83 awesome! I would love to see pictures of the part you made if you’d like to share them in our discord! I put the link in the video description
I have used Fuzzy Skin on some parts when I was using Cura, however, I haven't used it yet with Bambu Studio and my X1 Carbon, another alternative is using CF-PLA or wood filament to hide the layer lines, I have recently bought the Ideaformer holographic build-plates and the first layer hologram patterns are just awsome.
I don't know about bambu slicer, but in both Prusa slicer and Cura you can select areas of your part and change modifiers such as fuzzy skin, perimeters, infill etc. This should be possible in bambu slicer too. That way you can just disable fuzzy skin for areas that need tight tolerance or won't be visible, saving time both printing and post processing.
@@jakemgrim I can't even remember tbh, 0.1protrude, with a 0.1 layer line I think 100% infill petg. It's the only time I've used it. The grey petg happened to be an exact match to the cars interior colour, to the eye at least.
Fuzzy skin has been around a long time. Cura had it first I believe. It’s great for grips on handles as well. I did a TPU grip for my walking stick that I still use several years later. The clock design looks great.
Congrats for having the drive and pacience to go forward no mather the obtacles! For those who did not quite get it this video was made for people who mean bussiness, that are interested on the core of things, apriciate when someone openes their eyes and tells them they have been trying the wrong method to achieve their goal.
It's funny seeing you go through the same process as I did, getting quotes for injection molding the resin printers etc etc.. good luck with your endeavours.
Thanks for the video, very well done. Great story. I've been printing boxes and parts on A1 since the beginning of the year, but I haven't tried that feature yet. I guess it's time to try it. Thanks
You're very welcome! I'm glad you enjoyed the video and found it helpful. Experimenting with new features like fuzzy skin can be exciting, especially when it opens up new possibilities for your prints. I hope you have great success incorporating this technique into your projects on the A1. If you have any questions or need further assistance, feel free to reach out. Happy printing!
Thank you for summarizing the key points of the video! While some of the concepts discussed may not be groundbreaking, the practical demonstrations and experiments with fuzzy skin slicing provide valuable insights and tips for optimizing 3D printing processes. I'm glad you found the video useful!
I felt this video in my soul after having gone through the exact process you did. I have had a product injection molded before but it cost over 100k and the end result wasn’t even much stronger than an fdm part. Currently selling my anycubic m3 max because of the brittleness
Great video! Keep in mind you can "MIX" resins to get the desired effect. In example ABS like resin mixing with 15% flexible resin - no more brittle parts.
Thank you! Really? You can mix resin!?! That’s so cool!! So 85% ABS like resin and 15% flex resin? Have you tried this and did it work well? Now I’m excited about resin printing again!
@@jakemgrim I do it all the time...rarely do I print with a straight resin; my resin vat is more like the ever-replenishing soup pot. SuperPP 1.4GPa is clear, flexible, and super tough--I use Sunlu grey/white/black and add about 15% SuperPP. Makes minis that can fall off the table onto a brick floor without breaking!
@@jakemgrimdo bear in mind that it depends on the resins. Some resins might not get on well together. But in general yes you can mix them. It just might take some trial and error.
@@jakemgrimalso on the warping issue, it can be improved quite a lot with heavy supports, optimising your print settings and the part's angle to the bed.
for resin, try ABS-like resin, and also angle your part and lower the lift speed (I use 5mm/s instead of the default 20 on high speed resin). personally I'd recommend always painting resin, because it really doesn't like uv, and it's safer in case it's not 100% cured. if you have trouble with the print coming off of the support, use heavier support and add manual supports in the corners (also check that you don't have large planes, that will cause warping and/or failure). as for tolerance, add a modifier to the tolerance part. you can even model it and use the stl as a modifier, if you're using fusion make a component and add both bodies to it, then export it as 3mf, then import in your slic3r based slicer as a multi part object, select your modifier object, right click -> change type -> modifier, then right click -> add settings -> fuzzy skin -> check fuzzy skin, and then set it to none. another option is to do the opposite and make a modifier just for the outside and enable fuzzy skin for it. (with fuzzy skin disabled in settings.)
Have you tried the salt-annealing method? Just submerge in fiinely powdered salt (which will hold it in place) and put it in the oven at the appropriate temperature for a few hours. Makes surface very smooth.
@@jakemgrim I haven't tried it but apparently it works pretty well if you pack the salt tightly. Salt is great because it is cheap, stable under temperature, and washes away. You can also choose how smooth you want the surface to be, by the fineness of the salt powder you use. It doesn't let me post a link here but if you search for "remelting 3d printed thermoplastics" you can see the original video that popularized the technique.
Consider printing your cases at a 45 deg slant from vertical, using a custom CAD modeled support gantry with tiny sprues and turning off slicer created supports. First, you could get fuzzy skin on what would be the top of your housing. I use this method for custom electronics enclosures. Second, the diagonal orientation can a lot of strength to prints in a way that can't be gotten with injection molded parts, due to how molds have to be designed to release. Third, the fuzz skin turns out even better, as the layer line orientation is not laying on any of the the cardinal axes. Thanks for the fuzz combo testing. Do you have close up shots of each combo online somewhere, like Flickr? I suppose it is just easier and more useful to print a bunch of my own samples plates.
You don't have to ignite the acetone so that method is actually very useful and you're just down playing it like one of those cheesy 90s infomercials with the grayscale color
You could do what I did for a customer of mine. They wanted a kit of ~100 parts printed for each student (120 total students). I ended up 3D printing a master kit of parts, I sanded, primed and painted the parts until they looked perfect. I then made a silicon mold of the parts and cast thousands of parts easily and quickly to fulfill the order in resin. The parts were perfect reproductions and I still maintain the molds here in my shop. The customer (a nearby university) orders hundreds of these kits each year.
It’s pretty cool! I hope it goes well for you :) I’d love to see what you make so feel free to share your results in our discord (linked in the description)! I hope to see you around!
Wow, i don't nornally comment on YT videos but i have to say, i love your passion and thanks for this awesome tip! I already knew all the other variants of how you could smooth a 3D print, so this was very cool to learn!
I personally don’t understand why people go through such lengths to hide the fact that a thing was 3D printed. As of writing this comment, 3D printing is still a novelty. It is reaching the point quickly where most people can just buy one, but it is still a new and cool concept. I feel that for many people, owning something that was 3D printed would be a cool novelty. Not only do you have an alarm clock, but you have something that someone created with a little machine in their house. I understand that in some applications it is good to hide the fact that something was printed, mostly with cosmetic parts like cosplay props or things you want to have look like they were professionally made, but for me it doesn’t make much sense to go about trying to hide the fact that a thing you’re selling out of your house is 3D printed.
That's a great point you've raised! 3D printing does indeed have a unique appeal, and for many people, owning something that was created using this technology can be a fascinating and novel experience. It's a testament to the innovation and creativity involved in the manufacturing process. While there are certainly situations where concealing the 3D printed nature of an object may be desirable, such as in certain aesthetic or professional contexts, embracing the technology and its distinctive characteristics can also be a selling point. Ultimately, it comes down to individual preferences and the specific requirements of each project. Thanks for sharing your perspective!
Sometimes you need also need smooth surface for technical reasons to 😅 like some part sliding in and out of another.. sure could be redesigned so layers won't matter anymore...
Hi, so I've been 3d printing since 2020 (with the pandem situation) and I can give you a tips for your resin printing sticking on the bottom of your fep because I had the same issue and it's an easy fix. You just have to put 2/3 drops of PTFE lubricant on your fep then wipe it with a microfiber, it will create a film than prevent the print to stick, hope it will help you !
I started 3D printing with a resin machine and I can tell you didn't tried enough by printing with it, it is messy until you bought equipment to make things better like a washing machine or a dryer. Also the warp issue probably is a setting you need to set on the printer maybe giving it more exposure time or using the setting the resin indicates, maybe getting a better resin(? There are too many kind of resins and some of them are even unbreakable because they're used for mechanical stuff or high resistance applications.
Don't hide the pictures of the result in the beginning. That's a bad habit like the theacher that hides text on an overhead projector because he don't want you to read further. Read presentation zen and you will know why.
I've been using a formlabs resin printer and it is the bambulab of resin printers and it is literally click print and leave and you can track the print online. But obviously it comes at a cost
Using a Formlabs resin printer sounds like a convenient option, especially with its streamlined printing process and online print tracking feature. However, as you mentioned, the convenience typically comes with a higher cost compared to other resin printers or FDM printers like BambuLab. It's all about finding the right balance between convenience, quality, and cost that fits your needs and budget.
You're welcome! I'm glad you found the video and advice helpful. "Fail your way to success" is indeed a valuable mindset to adopt, as it encourages continuous learning and improvement. If you have any more questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask!
I found polyterra pla filament to be really good at "hiding" the lines, as the surface finish is a bit less reflective. 0.12 layer height is nearly invisible
I have had an Anycubic Photon for years. The resin printers are definitely not faster in most cases. They are also very hard to set up properly but once you have them set up, they work like a charm. When you set up anything for printing, it's usually safest to set up a base that is as big as the biggest portion of your print so more surface area is attached to the tray then the FEP film, it vastly reduces the chance of your print coming off mid print.
I know you can use it with other slicing programs other than bamboo lab, but I had no idea that it was ancient setting! I just found out about it last few months! How long has Fuzzy Skin been around?
@@jakemgrim yup first one to come out with it, a few extra settings but extremely similar, I think it came out in 4.0 ish... And can use modifer blocks as well It was really useful when printers layers lines stacking was really inconsistent
I’m looking for 10 people who would like to share what they are working on! I want to learn about cool projects and startups. If that interests you and want to be interviewed on my channel, fill out the form on:
jakegrim.com/chat
"My secret to no more 3D printed layer lines."
A tool we all know, fuzzy skin, is your secret? .
You start the video looking for a method for smooth finishes and you get sidetracked, you end up with "your secret", fuzzy skin in bamboo studio, are you kidding us, are you joking or are you lost and wasting our time?
Look up information on an automatic sanding method called polishing or rotary drum sanding.
@ does rotary drum work well?
Yeah.
The method I describe is called rotary drum polishing, also known as vibration or abrasive rotational molding. In this process, the object to be sanded is placed inside a rotating container (drum), along with an abrasive medium, such as ceramic beads, plastic, metal, or even natural materials such as small stones.
The drum rotates or vibrates, causing the abrasive particles to rub against the surface of the object, removing surface material, deburring, smoothing edges, or providing a uniform finish. This process is widely used in industries such as metalworking, jewelry, and manufacturing, to:
1. Deburring: Remove burrs or material residue on metal or plastic parts.
2. Polishing: Achieve smooth, shiny surfaces.
3. Cleaning: Remove rust or impurities.
Advantages
- High efficiency for processing multiple parts simultaneously.
- Ideal for complex geometries, where manual methods would be ineffective.
- Can be automated, reducing human labor.
Disadvantages
- Can cause excessive wear on delicate edges.
- Not suitable for extremely precise finishes or very large parts.
It is easy to build and as sanding material you can use a hammer to crush silicon carbide stones to sharpen knives, put them inside the rotating drum to polish the printed plastic parts.
This method does not It is not suitable for flexible TPU or very large parts.
To reduce banding, place the printer on the floor or on a cement table, normal tables vibrate too much. Use a 0.2 mm nozzle, calibrate the xyz belts well, and level the printer well. heated bed. Dry the filament below 20% humidity. Print at low speed, acceleration and jerk. Secure the printer to the table with L-brackets and rubber. Put the plastic spool on the table, not on the bridge of the filament. printer.
Greetings.
Hey starting 3d printing trying to learn tips and tricks on the way
90% of 3d printing discoveries are "We found a setting in the slicer we haven't clicked before"
Because they aren't discoveries. "Engineers" are just too fucking stupid to read the manual. Hence, scientist > engineers.
It's so charming how he presents the feature designed by the manufacturer as some kind of secret solution, as if he invented it. If he had bothered to watch a few videos on the subject, he wouldn't have had to go to all the trouble of "inventing" the fuzzy skin.
@@TerraMpwhere can I find those?
@@TerraMp That's disingenuously arrogant of you. The lad had to work through his problem by 'trial and error' and he clearly admits it took him a long time and hard work before he 'discovered' that a particular 'fuzzy' setting worked for him. Your sarcastic criticism is shameful. Where is your praise for the novel and useful invention he made?
@@TerraMpbut "I would have never been able to create this incredible invention" really got me 😂. Bro took all the responsibilities for this printer setting.
For those that don't want to watch the whole video, he uses "fuzzy skin" setting in his slicer at 0.3 thickness and 0.3 distance. Cheers!
Not all heroes wear capes
seeing it at the end of the video was whole another level
You are a hero
No one asked, and everyone needed it ! Thanks
I enjoy your gentle nature and soft speaking. Way too many people who make videos are very loud and have harsh editing styles. It’s nice to see something a little different.
I've been using fuzzy skin for a couple years now, and I think other slicers also have the setting too. as for tolerances, you can use modifier blocks to either enforce, or block fuzzy skin anywhere on your model. I use this for the phone mounts I designed and produce for my car. Fuzzy skin is an awesome feature, and even though I already knew about it, knew how to use it, and use it on a regular basis, I continued watching your video because of how well you made your video. It is structured very well, and easy to understand for even the most novice of printers, which I appreciate, and wanted to say GREAT JOB!
Thank you SO SO much! You put the biggest smile on my face :) I tried to make this video entertaining and informative for beginners. A bunch of expert level 3D printing people posted negative comments, but that’s okay thanks to people like you being kind and positive. If you haven’t already, you should consider joining our discord (link in the description) of other makers. I’ll be getting on there this afternoon to catch up on the conversation. Now I’m going to go for a run and exercise :) See ya around!!
There is also feature "variable layer height" which also has nice results, especially for more organic prints.
No way! I’ve never heard of variable layer height! I’ll have to look into it! Thank you for sharing :)
can also save time! no need to print vertical walls at 0.12mm height, but can still get that detail in the curved parts
@@TGMisKillingTheMiddleClass I didn’t even think about that! That’s an excellent point! Thank you!
Shame that (at least in OrcaSlicer) you can't use variable layer height with tree supports.
@@jakemgrim It is the weird stack of lines up along the top in the "prepare" stage. It is right the left of the "move object" button.
I've been using fuzzy on my prints for the last few weeks and I do like the results. I make alot of items with TPU and the the flexibility and fuzzy makes a great combo really gives my prototypes a next level feel. Great video thanks for sharing your journey!
I haven't tried TPU and Fuzz yet but it sounds cool! What kind of stuff are you printing? If you want to share pictures of the prints, you can post them in our Discord linked in the description!
Same here, I tried fuzzy on the Ender-3 v2 a couple months ago for a TPU button and it came out great both in look and feel. So I experimented a bit on PLA. My parameters of choice are 0.1, 0.1. It just gives it a silky roughness, like finished wood.
I for one appreciated the story. I understand some people just wanted the single phrase “use fuzzy skin” but if you are a maker, these are all relevant steps/ideas you would try. Probably saved a lot of people a lot of time. Definitely was helpful for me!
I'm glad to hear that you found the video helpful and appreciated the additional context provided in the story. Exploring different steps and ideas can indeed save time and offer valuable insights, especially for makers looking to optimize their 3D printing process. If you have any further questions or need more assistance, feel free to ask!
I agree that the troubleshooting process was interesting and helpful, but I would have appreciated if he said the solution at the beginning, and if he expounded more upon the troubleshooting process regarding his resin printer and Blender.
Context is important, sometimes you might want a quick solution to get back to testing though. I appreciate the story too, I'm only a curious passer-by though
Yeah man I appreciate you explaining your process I had a lot to learn from it
lot of talking and 'my secret' is just a feature in the slicer. Wasted video
Fuzzy skin is the one-for-all recipe to take away the 3d-printed look.
We use it on all our products from the beginning - but: It comes at the cost of increased print-time! Always a good idea to apply it only to visible surfaces by using modifier blocks
Glad I’m not the only one doing it!
Is it possible to add the Fuzzy Skin to only part of a model? For example, let’s say one half of a sphere?
@@goilo888yes, use modifiers. What slicer do you use?
@@alexlad13 The Bambu slicer.
Love the video. I think the best part of 3D printing is the design and problem solving! Seeing an idea sitting on my table or workbench always blows me away. I don't care if it's a small custom poker chip or a large set of inserts for my board games. The fact that after a few hours or days something that didn't exist before I started does now is so cool!
And the ironing out kinks until it's just right is awesome! Love the shared knowledge.
Goodluck in all you do!
Thank you so much! I’m glad you enjoyed the video! Feel free to share pictures or videos of your projects in our discord linked in the description! It’s so cool to turn ideas into real life things! I hope to see you around with future videos!
Cura and Prusa Slicer (which bambu studio is built on) also have fuzzy skin. I'm glad to see more people using it and im glad you made a video about it (and the product journey), it has been available for years and barely seems to be mentioned.
That’s what people been telling me that it’s been around for a while. I think it does need more attention because I never heard about it until recently. It’s a really helpful tool if you put it in the right scenario!
I don't know why, but I really liked you. The perseverance, patience and ingenuity. Hope more joy comes along your way.
resin warping and brittleness is a direct correlation to the resin you are using.
Crap! Really? Which resins do you recommend I use?
@@jakemgrim If you plan to cast the materials they make casting resins. I would think you would want to go that route but Ive never used those. I have a Phrozen Mini 8ks and I use the Phrozen Aqua 8K 3D Printing Resin. And get no warping or anything once I have it dialed in.
There's abs like resins, tough resins, flexible resin, and you can mix them . Warping can also be solved by orientation and different support layouts.
Very well made video and the fuzz looks great! For those that are looking to hide layer lines (from Title of the video) you may want to revisit the resin 3D printing. There are many resins out there that have varying degrees of strengths and some eliminate warping. Another idea would be to create a silicone mold from a sanded part if you wanted a non-fuzzy surface.
Thank you! I really want to give resin 3D printing another shot. Have you ever made a silicone mold? I’ve also been wanting to give it a try!
@@jakemgrim I have not, but watch other TH-camrs that do. The CrafsMan SteadyCraftin is a great resource and he mentions others in the field.
@@jakemgrim There are many tutorials for silicone mold making on youtube.
.3mm on both is what I found what looked best to me as well when I was testing things too last week. I've got a K1 Max and Neptune 4+ over the last few months, and have really been enjoying designing and creating things for people. It is really cool what we can do with 3D printing now a days.
That’s cool we both came up with 0.3! I’d love to see the projects your working on if you want to post pictures in our discord (linked in the description)!
I'm glad the fuzzy skin solution works for you. I'm a consultant engineer who develops medical devices. I have several resin and FDM printers and use whatever process seems the most appropriate for a part. If you ever need smooth, very detailed surfaces try using Sunlu ABS-Like resin which is also relatively inexpensive. Until switching to this resin I had many printing failures due to warped parts. I believe the slight flexibility of the cured resin helps eliminate most of the stresses introduced during the printing process which leads to warped parts. I'm sure there are suitable resins from other manufacturers, but I had little success using the brittle standard resins.
the worse offender imo is high speed resin, it is kinda marketed as general purpose, but it's far from it, it is very hard, which is great because it is dimensionally stable, but it also means it's glass-like and will shatter if dropped, it's fast curing, but if you're printing with the door and/or window open, it will get skin within 30s if you lift the cover on the printer.
also you absolutely need to process it indoor or at night otherwise it dries while you're removing it from the bed.
hey jake, just found your channel through this video and i love what you’re all about. the information was given in a really easily digestible anger and the production of the video was great! definitely gonna subscribe
Thank you so much! I just got done replying to a comment telling me everything I did wrong. Your comment made me smile :) Feel free to join our discord channel to share projects and ideas with other makers! I look forward to seeing you around new friend!
Really cool that you didnt give up on it! You can printed this on resin printer, warping can be resolve with better supports and other orientation, britelness can be solved by using different resin (like abs from elegoo, tough AnyCubic or some mix) or settings (lesser curing time). But i dont think resin print wouldnt work for commercial product, cuz if its undercured it could be toxic, if overcured it would be too brittle, pref you need to paint then so no sunlight would desroy youre product. BTW love texture on fineshed clock!
Thank you so much for taking the time to provide feedback! I would like to try abs resin some time! I’m currently trying to print a statue of Walt Disney in resin to display in my lab. I hope you enjoyed the video and hope to see you again next week :) P.S. Let me know if you build anything awesome this week!
@@jakemgrim What they said: warping/breaking off the supports is all about orientation. You don't want wide, flat areas parallel to the bed; it will stick HARD and tend to break off the supports--or, if you're using a magnetic print bed (which makes life so much easier), it can pull your bed enough to shift it off its magnet. You want the smallest cross section printing at time--so, I'd turn your clock body about 45 degrees, so no one side is parallel to the bed.
Play with it a bit and you'll get a feel for the ideal angle.
@@gpweaver that makes sense now! I always wondered why resin prints were printed in strange angles. Now I know! I’ll give it a shot! Hope to see you around for future videos because I love feedback like yours :)
Long story short: try to check the "enable fuzzy skin" box if you still haven't.played with it.
Did you not like my story?
@@jakemgrimIt was nice, but some people want the info only.
@@jakemgrim No, and it's not a secret
@@JacobHepworth what should I change to make it better?
@@jakemgrimYou could maybe start by covering fresh topics. I was hesitant to watch but was hoping for info I had never seen. It felt like I was wasting my time rehashing something I see in my feed a lot lately.
Fwiw, you're doing a great job on lighting, audio and all around production value.
I recognize this is 8 months old but for parts that need mechanical actuation you can use a modifier shape in orca or bambu studio and disable fuzzy skin within that volume, you can also use it for aesthetic alterations, certain parts with more or less fuzz, etc.
you can make only 20min extra by adding a modifier to remove the fuzzy skin on the inside, can I have one now that I saved you 1000 hours?
Wouldn’t that be the same as contour? Or would the modifier work differently?
@@jakemgrim Using the modifier, it is possible to apply a fuzzy skin only on the outer contour of the part, while using the 'contour' option makes it fuzzy even on the inside.
@@ggbartosz I see! I haven’t used the modifier yet. That makes a lot of sense! Thank you!
modifier is an added shape that encompasses a different setting (right click)@@jakemgrim
The modifier feature is like using a support blocker. It allows you to create a "zone" with custom settings. In your case I would recommend creating an obj or stl that is the exact same OD as you clock but solid, and just reduce the x and y by .1-.5mm and Raise by .1-.5mm that way you can import it with your model and it's already dimensioned properly.
I feel like people often times forget that you don't have to go to a massive injection molding company when you need to mass produce parts like this. There are countless ways to make your own molds for small scale productions so that all you have to do is make 1 "master" by 3D printing, and then sanding and priming it smooth, then using that master to make as many molds as you need.
People are acting like this is supposed to be a tutorial rather than a story. This is about the journey someone went through vs just telling you how to get an affect.
As someone who does 3d modeling, I loved this video. It resonates with me on trying 80 different ways to eventually finding a solution. Love the video.
Thanks! I love the scientific approach. I've played around with fuzzy skin before but it didn't look as good as yours so now I'm eager to try more combos of settings. I agree that it looks professional. It looks like it's purposely like that for grip or kinda futuristic in a way.
I love your calm, detailed and helpfullly informative presentation style! Subscribed!
Thank you! I really appreciate your positive feedback. I’ve been getting a lot of negative comments and yours made me smile :)
Bruh… I’ve used this setting before as a simple test, but it never thought about using it to get rid of the layer lines… valuable insight you gave me, thank you!
Thank you, my friend! I hope this helps you :)
This is an excellent video.
I'm learning 3D printing for car parts, and wanted to create dash parts that fit in without that "3D Printed" look.
You addressed the issue perfectly and concisely. There's clearly a lot of data and time gone into this process - the editing is first rate.
Thank you for this video, for taking the time and care.
Thank you so much for your kind words! I'm thrilled to hear that the video was helpful for your project. Creating dash parts without the typical "3D Printed" look can definitely elevate the overall aesthetic of your car interior. If you have any questions or need further assistance as you continue your 3D printing journey, feel free to reach out. Best of luck with your car parts project, and happy printing!
Little precision about tolerences, where pieces connect you can actually simply tell the slicer to print this part without any fuzz, for a bezel for example or a ridge. so you don't have to change your tolerences :)
That's a great point! In many slicer software programs, including Cura and others, you can indeed customize where the fuzzy skin effect is applied on your model. By specifying areas where you want the surfaces to be smooth without fuzz, such as connection points or precise tolerances like bezels or ridges, you can maintain the necessary fit and finish without altering the overall dimensions of the model. This way, you can enjoy the benefits of fuzzy skin for most of the print while preserving critical tolerances where needed. Thanks for highlighting this useful feature!
@@jakemgrim you're welcome!
thanks for the video this really helped me out a lot. im printing everything with fuzz now. it looks so much better than layer lines
That's great to hear! Fuzzy skin can indeed provide a smoother and more aesthetically pleasing finish compared to traditional layer lines. It's an excellent technique for enhancing the appearance of your 3D prints. If you have any more questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask!
Thanks for sharing this information - as a play-around-with-printers guy who also happens to be an engineer who works in manufacturing full-time, one thing I'll say is: you went to the wrong shops to quote your injection molded parts. The Xometrys and ProtoLabs of the world are fast and easy, and if they're not cheap enough for you there's other options out there.
I’ll check those out! Thank you for the advice!
ANy other names you can share? I received the same quote he did for a similar part from Fictiv.
Great video! It surely contributes not only to avoid extra costs and effort to obtain a final product but also avoid a lot of polution with sanded microplastics and other harmful chemicals!
Thank you! I'm glad you found the video helpful. Indeed, by using techniques like fuzzy skin and resin printing, we can minimize the need for extensive post-processing methods like sanding, which can produce harmful microplastics and require additional chemicals. It's a win-win situation for both the environment and the final product's quality. If you have any more questions or need further clarification, feel free to ask!
if you ever want to return to maintaining glossy parts without spray paint - another super quick option would be to thin down uv curable nail polish or craft fluid with rubbing alcohol then thinly coat the parts and cure them - you can play with the viscosity proportions of polish to alcohol. I do this with my artificial nails. Not necessarily practical for all situations but I am sure you will run into a customer request eventually in the future asking for metallic or mirror shine products
Thanks for the reply. Not going to change filaments any time soon. Bambu had a sale this weeked for 32% off and free shipping so I bought 4 more rolls of PLA. The printer is in my office inside my house so the med temp is probably 70 degrees and it is on a very stable surface. It is self-calibrating machine (P1S) and the temps are 219/220 c and 55/55c. Just a hobby for me and not a business so learning as I go and when I have time. Lots to learn! Good luck with your business.
Again, thanks for your video,
Tony
You're welcome, Tony! It sounds like you're enjoying your journey into 3D printing as a hobbyist, and it's great to hear that you took advantage of a good deal on filament. Learning as you go is part of the fun, and it sounds like you're off to a great start with your BambuLab P1S printer. If you ever have any questions or need advice along the way, feel free to reach out. Happy printing, and best of luck with your projects!
OUTSTANDING INFORMATION 🎉❤👏🏽
Thank you my friend!
@@jakemgrim Thank you 😊 🙏🏽... I'm learning more and more each day. Much appreciated ❣️
@@rod3134 I hope to see you around in the comments of future videos!
One of the most helpful videos I have seen in a while, the fact that my A1 is my main 3d printer and I have been looking to get this effect on some of my prints is amazing as I randomly came across this video. Any additional tips you have for bambu slicer in video format would be amazing, your delivery is bang on and easy to understand !!
Thank you so much for your positive comment! It made me smile! I try to get better with each video I post. I need to dig around in Bambu Studio before I make another 3D printing video (about a month or so). My goal is one video like this per week, so I hope you stick around for future videos! The next few will be about microcontrollers, prototyping, and creating a product you can sell to customers. But have no fear, there will definitely be more 3D printing videos to come!
Also, I posted a video a few weeks ago on how to print TPU with the A1
Also also, if you want to share pictures and videos of your projects, I hope you consider joining our Discord community! I love seeing what other people make! The link is in the description :)
on the part of fuzzy skin and the tolerances. you can add a modifier cube or what it fit and just float it only on the outside areas were you want fuzzy skin. This way in your model only the outside is with a fuzzy skin and the inside is normal which now saves time and the tolerances will stay.
I wish I would have thought of that! Thank you so much! Hope to see you around friend!
@@jakemgrimmaybe do a followup video on that. Im new in FDM Printing - this would be a nice quick tutorial Video, since i dont know what he means :D
Also, you can do the inverse and add a modifier object in the areas where you do NOT want fuzzy skin and save yourself that post processing as well.
@@Oliver_Things wow! That might be even easier! Thank you!! I hope you stick around for future videos because you have some great advice!
@@jakemgrim lots of trial and error! Keep up the good work!
Wow, thank you. I am buying my first 3d printer ever (Bambu Lab X1C) in about 2 weeks. This will be a great help.
You're welcome! Congratulations on your upcoming purchase of the Bambu Lab X1C! It's an exciting journey to embark on, and I'm glad this information could be helpful to you. If you have any questions or need further assistance as you start your 3D printing journey, feel free to ask. Happy printing!
This is actually really useful advice. I've glanced at the setting before but never really considered trying it as no one really suggested it and I figured it created actual fuzzy skin in the form of intentional stringing. Thanks! I'll definitely give this a go on our X1C soon.
Glad to hear this helps! If you want to share pictures or videos of your projects you can post them in our discord linked above! Hope to see you around!
This is awesome! I just got a 3D printer it’s flash forge ADV 3 Lite and trying to invent/ have fun with it. Got the most basic set up ever but it’s a start! Happy for you man! Great job earned a Sub.🎉
Why are there so many haters in these comments? People moan when its vague, yet they will moan when its thorough explanation. Nothing wrong with documenting your trials and errors and letting us know about them. Especially to a noob like me. I appreciate the effort 👌
I personally hate the video, because it is misleading. The part about resin printer being brittle can be just because he didn't UV-light the part after print.
@@sandiegosummer bit dumb seeing as hes showing us his trials and errors and telling us why he made that decision. Of course its because the resin printer wasnt operated correctly. But he wasnt about to spend weeks trying to fix what a filament printer can do instantly with no issues
@@melonpipTo those experienced in printing, it's his attitude. He did the same for the absurd acetone sketch which isn't even remotely close to how ABS is supposed to be smoothed with it. There's no notable fire danger when vapor polishing properly and it's still a very useful option in many cases but he smugly dismisses it.
This is a stretched out, misleading video about a setting that is years old and his 'product'. It'd be fine if he actually gave realistic examples of these done properly but instead it's an arrogant presentation about his brilliant money-saving solution. Beginners will think this is great, I've been there. I've also then been very frustrated later when realizing many 'tricks' and suggestions constantly repeated by the community had only wasted a ton of time.
Thanks a lot mate!! Sharing your trial and error process made a huge difference with my own learning process. Kudos and hope you keep doing amazing stuff!!!
I'm just about to buy a 3d printer and have been thinking long and hard how it solve the layer line issue, since that's something that will bug me. Glad this video popped up and thanks for sharing!
There’s a lot of great printers out there! My favorite being Creality and Bambu Lab . It’s a fun adventure once you get started! Check out our Discord (liked in the video description) if you have any questions or want to share your projects once you get started! Hope to see you around!
Same here!
Awesome Video appreciate your time with the different fuzzy skin settings. I wanted to say that you can eliminate the fuzzy skin from areas that need to fit together with primitive object as a modifier for those areas.
Good to know! Thank you for taking the time provide feedback! Hope to see you around in future videos :)
When you think the video is “hey, do you remember this feature from a few years ago?” but you get “come along to my journey of printing a box” :D
It’s like a box of chocolates, you never know what you’re gonna get ;) hope you stick around for future videos, friend!
I’ve had my bambu X1-C for a little over a year now. Unfortunately, it sat for almost a year without being used due to not having the time dealing with family issues and moving but now I have a dedicated place and I’ve been printing every weekend. Trying to find useful items to print and solving solutions for things I might have made out of other materials is what really interests me. Nothing I’ve designed and printed so far would really take advantage of a fuzzy finish, but it definitely is something I would like to try at some point. Thanks for making this video, I don’t usually tweak settings unless there is a problem, but this one seems like it could make some of my designs look that much better.
Jake, thank you for taking the time to run these experiments and give others the opportunity to learn from your trial and error.
It’s really amazing that you’re providing this value & we get to learn from your mistakes so we can all have better 3D prints 😊
This seems like a great trick to use when printing rock PLA. The fuzzy look not only would hide the printing lines, but it would also contribute to the realism of the figure.
Thank you very much for the heads up!
Im new to 3d printing so this was very informative, despite not getting to the point its a lot more layman/noob friendly
I'm glad to hear that you found the video informative! Sometimes, diving into the details can be helpful for newcomers to understand the process better, even if it means the video is a bit longer. It's essential to provide context and explanations for those who are new to 3D printing, so they can grasp the concepts more easily. If you have any more questions or need further clarification on anything related to 3D printing, feel free to ask!
Very nice. As an absolute amateur at 3D printing, this is very helpful thank you
I din't realize how much texture could make layer lines disappear until I printed a crochet model.
Your video is really inspiring to me.
We have a product that we have had trouble getting off the ground, but just watching your success makes me want to take the next step.
Thanks Jake!
Great video, I subscribed! :)
Have you tried making Silicone molds? Casting each piece would take less than 15 minutes using 2 part resin that you can pour and cure and you can dye the resin in any color. There are also minimal post processing.
Plus, just like with filament, there are lots of different kinds of resins with different mechanical and other properties. Do the fill/sand process once to get a high-quality master, make a few molds from it, and cast multiple parts at once. Or, have a local machine shop make a suitable mold frame, make an epoxy mold instead of silicone, and use that to do low-volume injection molding yourself. Or use the master to make sand molds and cast it out of Zamak or aluminum. There are all kinds of options that don't take three hours to produce a part.
I have not tried Silicone molds. I would really like to try it sometime. Are there any brands or tutorials you recommend?
Very good point. There are a lot of variables involved with the whole process. Are there any filaments you recommend I use?
Good shit jake. For real. As a 3d printer who sands and uses a soldering iron to smooth out all my prints i always thought the fuzz setting (which is on cralitt print as well) would make my prints feel like a teddybear or something. Youre a lifesaveri liked and subscribed because of this video. Good stuff mate
Loved your story and presentation! Thanks for sharing .
I’m glad you enjoyed it! It was my pleasure! I hope you stick around for future videos :)
You can use modifiers to make certain areas fuzzy but keep those interlocking areas clean.
Good to know! Thank you so much for your feedback!
If resin prints are warping it means you are typically over exposing each layer, UV light heats up resin when it starts to cure so the longer you cure them for the more they warp, while parts can warp during the printing process however it boils down to the cure station, over curing the print can cause warping.
Also resin is brittle because you are using the wrong resin, try to get UV Tough Resin and or ABS like resin for more durable parts, you can even get resin that is made for practical applications but the resin is more expensive.
Good to know! Thank you for sharing! I’ll give it a try!
@@jakemgrim The resin I use is Anycubic UV Tough Resin and Jayo ABS Like resin.
Also some more tips:
If the print is sticking to the FEP sheet then you are likely over curing the layers.
If the print falls off the supports it could mean the you either don't have enough or strong enough supports, the left speed of the print bed is too fast and or the temperature of the resin is too cold.
Resin works best around 25 to 30 degrees C and it allows the resin to quickly flow under the print bed when the print bed is lifted. Because resin is thick when the print bed rises after a layer is cured it creates suction and this suction can cause prints to be ripped off the supports, the colder the resin the more thicker the resin and more suction is created, too hot resin can cause warping and defects in the print.
It's annoying but once you get the sweet spot with brand/type of resin you shouldn't have to touch the settings again but you might have to once you try using a different resin or brand of resin... if using a new brand or type of resin after you have found your sweet spot always test the new resin/type of resin with a small print and that way you lower the risk of wasting a whole lot of resin.
Most printers don't come with a built in heater so I use a portable mini heater that i have facing the resin printer and I use a laser thermometer to check the resin temp.
THANK YOU for this tip... It is a real viable solution to a part not looking like a cheap 3D print
Thank you! I’m glad you liked it!
Fuzzy skin is a feature that Bambu Studio inherited from Prusa Slicer. Most likely they also got if from someone/somewhere else 😉 It's hard to discover who originally made this.
But that does not matter to me. I never looked at this feature or knew how to use it so kudos to you for learning me somet hing new 👍
Thank you my friend! I want to try it with my Creality CR-10 next! That printer is a tank! BTW I like your profile pic ;) Hope to see you around!
I really enjoyed this video! Very few channels show the whole journey of finding a solution to a problem. They just tell you the answer is X.
Thank you! A lot of people are telling me the opposite. I’m glad you enjoyed!
@@jakemgrim Many people online tend to be very impatient when it comes to the content they consume. They often want instant gratification, that's why it's common to see the statement "I watched a 10 minute video just to learn that you used the Fuzzy Skin tool, you should have said that in 1 minute".
There are thousands of videos about the Fuzzy Skin tool in 3D slicers, there's nothing special about that. Most of them are using this tool for it's basic intended purpose (adding a rough texture to the print). It's rare to find people using this tool to solve a very common issue in 3d printing (hiding layer lines), like you did here.
I love that you started with a specific problem that many people face in 3d printing, then through experimentation and discovery stumbled upon the Fuzzy Skin tool. After this, you also did your own experiments to find the best settings for this tool. That whole process was educational and fun to watch! The storytelling was the best part about the video.
@@htpkey thank you so much my friend! I really really appreciate your feedback. You made my day. Thank you for your support :)
Man there's a lot of keyboard commandos in this comment section.
As someone who just got my first printer (Bambu P1S) I really appreciate this video! Thank you sir!
'keyboard commandos' is very lenient of you, I could think of some descriptors far more blunt for the envious trolls. I think the lad has done very well, has a good courteous manner and his invention is actually a very good idea.
I love this dude. Perfect video and advice and just shows the true process of the journey.
Jake, use mesh cubes to interrupt the fuzzy skin features for parts that need the tolerancing, it's a little tedious, but 30 minutes of that saves you hours in post processing. Especially because fuzzy skin in randomized, and your average variance will vary per part.
Thank you Daniel! I never even considered that! That’s going to save a bunch of time! I hope you stick around for future videos to provide similar feedback to help me improve! You are awesome my friend :)
Bro, before you say that, I would imagine how was your solution becouse I tryed the same in my pieces and its realy works. Its nice becouse you corroborates with the facts. Thanks.
Thanks bro! I really appreciate your feedback! I hope you stick around for future video comments :D
Use modifier with fuzzy skin turned off so you dont need to sand down the fuzzy skin from where you dont want it ( 9:04 ). You can also do what Yagoa said in other comment and make fuzzy skin as a modifier, eg. cube, and overlap that with the places where you want the fuzzy skin to appear.
That’s awesome! Thank you so much for sharing that! I’ll give it a try!
how can be done??😮
@@FrankP83 hopefully I can figure it out!
@jakemgrim waiting for your tutorial Jake!However this night I've experienced the fuzzy with your 0.3 0.3 setting and the result is pretty nice!Thanks!
@@FrankP83 awesome! I would love to see pictures of the part you made if you’d like to share them in our discord! I put the link in the video description
This is great! Thank you! I never knew this setting existed and my prints look so much better now!
I have used Fuzzy Skin on some parts when I was using Cura, however, I haven't used it yet with Bambu Studio and my X1 Carbon, another alternative is using CF-PLA or wood filament to hide the layer lines, I have recently bought the Ideaformer holographic build-plates and the first layer hologram patterns are just awsome.
Good to know! I’ve been wanting to test different build plates! You should share pictures of your results in your Discord linked in the description :)
I don't know about bambu slicer, but in both Prusa slicer and Cura you can select areas of your part and change modifiers such as fuzzy skin, perimeters, infill etc. This should be possible in bambu slicer too. That way you can just disable fuzzy skin for areas that need tight tolerance or won't be visible, saving time both printing and post processing.
Prusaslicer has had this for years also. 👌 I used it for car parcel shelf brackets in grey petg, look exactly the same as the car interior texture
What settings did you use? 0.3/0.3 ?
@@jakemgrim I can't even remember tbh, 0.1protrude, with a 0.1 layer line I think 100% infill petg. It's the only time I've used it. The grey petg happened to be an exact match to the cars interior colour, to the eye at least.
@@gardian1701 good to know! I might have to try something similar with my car. Thank you for your feedback! Hope to see you around in future videos!
You explain things so well. I was captivated by your discoveries in this video. subscribed ! :)
7:50 He finally stops yapping and just shows it. 😂
Fuzzy skin has been around a long time. Cura had it first I believe. It’s great for grips on handles as well. I did a TPU grip for my walking stick that I still use several years later. The clock design looks great.
5:10 bro discovered the fuzzy skin option on his slicer. There, 10 mins saved
Thank you
ty!
That's a concise way to sum it up! Sometimes the key points can be distilled down quite effectively.
Your welcome :)
Your welcome :)
This is absolutely amazing! I will totally be using this for certain models I print into he future!
Congrats for having the drive and pacience to go forward no mather the obtacles! For those who did not quite get it this video was made for people who mean bussiness, that are interested on the core of things, apriciate when someone openes their eyes and tells them they have been trying the wrong method to achieve their goal.
Thank you my friend! I tried to blend education, entertainment, and inspiration all into one video. I hope you stick around for future videos :)
It's funny seeing you go through the same process as I did, getting quotes for injection molding the resin printers etc etc.. good luck with your endeavours.
Thank you!
0:29 - me half watching, thinking he's gonna eat plastic
Thanks for the video, very well done. Great story. I've been printing boxes and parts on A1 since the beginning of the year, but I haven't tried that feature yet. I guess it's time to try it. Thanks
You're very welcome! I'm glad you enjoyed the video and found it helpful. Experimenting with new features like fuzzy skin can be exciting, especially when it opens up new possibilities for your prints. I hope you have great success incorporating this technique into your projects on the A1. If you have any questions or need further assistance, feel free to reach out. Happy printing!
Summary: nothing new there, but your video is useful because the tests your made with the fuzzy skin.
Thank you for summarizing the key points of the video! While some of the concepts discussed may not be groundbreaking, the practical demonstrations and experiments with fuzzy skin slicing provide valuable insights and tips for optimizing 3D printing processes. I'm glad you found the video useful!
I felt this video in my soul after having gone through the exact process you did. I have had a product injection molded before but it cost over 100k and the end result wasn’t even much stronger than an fdm part. Currently selling my anycubic m3 max because of the brittleness
It’s not easy!
Great video! Keep in mind you can "MIX" resins to get the desired effect. In example ABS like resin mixing with 15% flexible resin - no more brittle parts.
Thank you! Really? You can mix resin!?! That’s so cool!! So 85% ABS like resin and 15% flex resin? Have you tried this and did it work well? Now I’m excited about resin printing again!
@@jakemgrim I do it all the time...rarely do I print with a straight resin; my resin vat is more like the ever-replenishing soup pot.
SuperPP 1.4GPa is clear, flexible, and super tough--I use Sunlu grey/white/black and add about 15% SuperPP. Makes minis that can fall off the table onto a brick floor without breaking!
@@jakemgrimdo bear in mind that it depends on the resins. Some resins might not get on well together. But in general yes you can mix them. It just might take some trial and error.
@@jakemgrimalso on the warping issue, it can be improved quite a lot with heavy supports, optimising your print settings and the part's angle to the bed.
@@sligit does adjusting your part angle, help prevent it from getting stuck to the fep? Changing the angle to reduce the surface area per layer help?
for resin, try ABS-like resin, and also angle your part and lower the lift speed (I use 5mm/s instead of the default 20 on high speed resin). personally I'd recommend always painting resin, because it really doesn't like uv, and it's safer in case it's not 100% cured.
if you have trouble with the print coming off of the support, use heavier support and add manual supports in the corners (also check that you don't have large planes, that will cause warping and/or failure).
as for tolerance, add a modifier to the tolerance part. you can even model it and use the stl as a modifier, if you're using fusion make a component and add both bodies to it, then export it as 3mf, then import in your slic3r based slicer as a multi part object, select your modifier object, right click -> change type -> modifier, then right click -> add settings -> fuzzy skin -> check fuzzy skin, and then set it to none.
another option is to do the opposite and make a modifier just for the outside and enable fuzzy skin for it. (with fuzzy skin disabled in settings.)
Have you tried the salt-annealing method? Just submerge in fiinely powdered salt (which will hold it in place) and put it in the oven at the appropriate temperature for a few hours. Makes surface very smooth.
That sounds like a super super cool idea!!!! I’ve never heard of that but now I want to try it! Is there any issues with warping when you do that??
@@jakemgrim I haven't tried it but apparently it works pretty well if you pack the salt tightly. Salt is great because it is cheap, stable under temperature, and washes away. You can also choose how smooth you want the surface to be, by the fineness of the salt powder you use. It doesn't let me post a link here but if you search for "remelting 3d printed thermoplastics" you can see the original video that popularized the technique.
@@findlaybuch that’s such a unique idea but makes so much sense! I’m going to try it sometime! Thank you so much for sharing :)
Consider printing your cases at a 45 deg slant from vertical, using a custom CAD modeled support gantry with tiny sprues and turning off slicer created supports.
First, you could get fuzzy skin on what would be the top of your housing. I use this method for custom electronics enclosures. Second, the diagonal orientation can a lot of strength to prints in a way that can't be gotten with injection molded parts, due to how molds have to be designed to release. Third, the fuzz skin turns out even better, as the layer line orientation is not laying on any of the the cardinal axes.
Thanks for the fuzz combo testing. Do you have close up shots of each combo online somewhere, like Flickr?
I suppose it is just easier and more useful to print a bunch of my own samples plates.
Thank you so much for all of this great feedback! I will put this information to use. I added the images of the tests to discord
You don't have to ignite the acetone so that method is actually very useful and you're just down playing it like one of those cheesy 90s infomercials with the grayscale color
You'd still be stuck with abs
You could do what I did for a customer of mine. They wanted a kit of ~100 parts printed for each student (120 total students). I ended up 3D printing a master kit of parts, I sanded, primed and painted the parts until they looked perfect. I then made a silicon mold of the parts and cast thousands of parts easily and quickly to fulfill the order in resin. The parts were perfect reproductions and I still maintain the molds here in my shop. The customer (a nearby university) orders hundreds of these kits each year.
I heard about it but never tried it, now I will. 😊 Thank you so much. 👏🏻
It’s pretty cool! I hope it goes well for you :) I’d love to see what you make so feel free to share your results in our discord (linked in the description)! I hope to see you around!
@@jakemgrim I'm waiting for my ender 3 s1 plus to arrive. Do you know if it has that option?
Wow, i don't nornally comment on YT videos but i have to say, i love your passion and thanks for this awesome tip! I already knew all the other variants of how you could smooth a 3D print, so this was very cool to learn!
I personally don’t understand why people go through such lengths to hide the fact that a thing was 3D printed. As of writing this comment, 3D printing is still a novelty. It is reaching the point quickly where most people can just buy one, but it is still a new and cool concept. I feel that for many people, owning something that was 3D printed would be a cool novelty. Not only do you have an alarm clock, but you have something that someone created with a little machine in their house. I understand that in some applications it is good to hide the fact that something was printed, mostly with cosmetic parts like cosplay props or things you want to have look like they were professionally made, but for me it doesn’t make much sense to go about trying to hide the fact that a thing you’re selling out of your house is 3D printed.
That's a great point you've raised! 3D printing does indeed have a unique appeal, and for many people, owning something that was created using this technology can be a fascinating and novel experience. It's a testament to the innovation and creativity involved in the manufacturing process. While there are certainly situations where concealing the 3D printed nature of an object may be desirable, such as in certain aesthetic or professional contexts, embracing the technology and its distinctive characteristics can also be a selling point. Ultimately, it comes down to individual preferences and the specific requirements of each project. Thanks for sharing your perspective!
Sometimes you need also need smooth surface for technical reasons to 😅 like some part sliding in and out of another.. sure could be redesigned so layers won't matter anymore...
Hi, so I've been 3d printing since 2020 (with the pandem situation) and I can give you a tips for your resin printing sticking on the bottom of your fep because I had the same issue and it's an easy fix. You just have to put 2/3 drops of PTFE lubricant on your fep then wipe it with a microfiber, it will create a film than prevent the print to stick, hope it will help you !
6:32 your welcome
Thank you!
@@jakemgrimI loved the full video! :)
I started 3D printing with a resin machine and I can tell you didn't tried enough by printing with it, it is messy until you bought equipment to make things better like a washing machine or a dryer. Also the warp issue probably is a setting you need to set on the printer maybe giving it more exposure time or using the setting the resin indicates, maybe getting a better resin(? There are too many kind of resins and some of them are even unbreakable because they're used for mechanical stuff or high resistance applications.
Don't hide the pictures of the result in the beginning. That's a bad habit like the theacher that hides text on an overhead projector because he don't want you to read further. Read presentation zen and you will know why.
Is that a book? Presentation Zen?
I've been using a formlabs resin printer and it is the bambulab of resin printers and it is literally click print and leave and you can track the print online. But obviously it comes at a cost
Using a Formlabs resin printer sounds like a convenient option, especially with its streamlined printing process and online print tracking feature. However, as you mentioned, the convenience typically comes with a higher cost compared to other resin printers or FDM printers like BambuLab. It's all about finding the right balance between convenience, quality, and cost that fits your needs and budget.
if you want the resin print to be strong as like PLA you need to put it into UV oven so it hardens properly
Thank you for 1) this video and 2) your tenacity. I'll quote you: "Fail your way to success." Outstanding advice.👍
You're welcome! I'm glad you found the video and advice helpful. "Fail your way to success" is indeed a valuable mindset to adopt, as it encourages continuous learning and improvement. If you have any more questions or need further assistance, feel free to ask!
Yooo Ik this guy he keeps hanging around my school we don’t know how he go there tho
I’ve may have taught you a thing or two
I found polyterra pla filament to be really good at "hiding" the lines, as the surface finish is a bit less reflective. 0.12 layer height is nearly invisible
5:05 is when he actually talks about it.
Thanks bro
I have had an Anycubic Photon for years. The resin printers are definitely not faster in most cases. They are also very hard to set up properly but once you have them set up, they work like a charm.
When you set up anything for printing, it's usually safest to set up a base that is as big as the biggest portion of your print so more surface area is attached to the tray then the FEP film, it vastly reduces the chance of your print coming off mid print.
that is an ancient slicer setting not anything to do with bambulab, they just forked PrusaSlicer
I know you can use it with other slicing programs other than bamboo lab, but I had no idea that it was ancient setting! I just found out about it last few months! How long has Fuzzy Skin been around?
@@jakemgrimsince the ender 3
@@sniperpronerfmods9811 does that mean you can do it in Cura?
@@jakemgrim yup first one to come out with it, a few extra settings but extremely similar, I think it came out in 4.0 ish... And can use modifer blocks as well
It was really useful when printers layers lines stacking was really inconsistent
@@sniperpronerfmods9811 I can’t believe it took me this long to come across fuzzy. Now I feel kind of silly