SMOOTHING 3D prints with isopropyl alcohol
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 พ.ค. 2024
- Ive done some 3d print smoothing with acetone and I love the result, however I dont really like printing with ABS. For most of the stuff I do I dont need the improved resilience. Also ABS smells and loves to warp when printed without an enclosure. I wish you could smooth PLA, well this isnt PLA but the printing experiance was pretty darn close. This is Polysmooth and it was specifically designed to be easy to print and smoothable with simple isopropyl alcohol. Lets see just how easy smoothing 3D prints can be.
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When you print in Vase mode using a .4 nozzle bump your line width up to .6. it pushes more material and will make the walls way thicker and fill the holes. I make lots of Vase's and this works wicked.
or increase your flow rate by a small percentage to manage the material rate more precisely
One of the first prints I did was a vase - pushed the flow to 120% and it came out perfect and watertight
I saw a vid a week or so back where someone was vase printing with extreme line widths. Amazingly they had good results with line widths many times the nozzle width. Like 2mm with a 0.4mm nozzle. The line width was even wider than the flat part of the nozzle. The secret seemed to be increasing the layer height to maintain a 5:2 ratio or something like that. Annoyingly I can't find the vid now or I'd post a link.
Found it... th-cam.com/video/0DAP5Zm1jvk/w-d-xo.html
.8 nozzles just make it so much stronger, that's what I'd suggest.
I imagine that if you could smell it when it was running, it would mean that it's a massive fire hazard. Definitely don't want to run it partially open in any way. Deadpool slowly rotating in a toxic alcohol mist is very on brand, good choice.
Atomized flame thrower 🤔
You can smell ipa way below flammable limits
Just a PSA, PolySmooth(tm) is a PVB blend, if you wanna find some generic. Not all blends are created equal, but I generally encourage people to understand the polymers they are using better, and rely less on trademarks
Whatcha talkin' 'bout Willis!? It's a LEAR jet! 🤣
absolute lifesaver, thank you lmao
You have some fans that were really silent, I'd like to see if they could become even more silent smoothed
For some reason I thought you were taking about fans as in people, not fans as in spinny fluid movers the first time I read your comment XD It reeeeaaly changes the meaning
Same bro
I don't know, I like my fans loud and cheery
@@beeallen2743 Me too, It took some time before I got that thought off my mind 🤪😂
I was thinking the same thing. Some of the silent fan blades would this make them even more silent and would make them work better?
One option: (only for prints that are basic, or mostly flat edged. (parts, tools, vases etc) If you have a hot air station, you can set the air gun temp, just above the nozzle temp, and give the edges a short blast of hot air in an equal manner. That does eliminate a lot of the layering, although you need a silicone mat, and have to do short blasts to avoid warping.
That holely vase must have been designed by the Corsair waterblock team.
Thank you major hardware. We love you 💖
Polymaker is my go-to filament. I've never had problems with anything of theirs I've used. Thanks for the video!
I personally have experimented with PETG prints and chemical MEK smoothing, it works surprisingly well in a custom vapor chamber. Alternatively you can use Toluene but it is much weaker and milder, I suppose it has some use for very minor smoothing.
I thinks it's worth trying with the lowest layer height that your machine can handle and then smoothing the print. It shouldn't have to stay in the chamber for long and it can give better results.
Love the channel, cheers!
Hey man, that really helped me decide on where I stand with it. If you really love all the work into perfecting it, buffing it, etc. Sure, it's a great addition. But dude.....so much work.
if you have the time for it, could you scale down the picard model and smooth it? just to see how smooth you can make his head xD
thank you, I was very curious about this smoothing method, but I was still disappointed with the results. but you have my support and subscription, keep up the good work. thanks.
Thank you very much for demonstrating the process ✅👍
I have acetone smoothed PLA before. Mostly by accident because I was using it as a stand for an ABS print so I actually also accidentally welded the PLA and ABS prints together so it ended up not being very useful so it was lucky it was just a couple test prints in there but the point is I was able to both smooth and solvent weld PLA using acetone.
My vote is to test the strength of the stuff before and after smoothing. Maybe compare it to a popular PLA too. I know, there are 34 channels doing that type of stuff, but you have the fancy vapor elevator for this one case. The smoothing filament could be useful for more than cosmetics if the physical characteristics are different and desirable in some way over PLA. I know PETG, ABS, Nylon, and carbon blends all have some advantages but they often are only marginally better. Plus they often have significant negatives; stuff like hot end limitations, fumes, enclosures ... If this stuff is reasonably safe and easy to print it might make up 90% of the difference.
Question: How sensitive are the pieces to a manual smoothing? Could you do a better job with an alcohol swab?
Bro when the music started i started crackin up. Badass video my bro, kudos. THanks for giving of yourself, time and your wisdom and knowledge and sharing with us, the collective conciousness ;) for inspiration.
thx man, subbed
I can see it being great as a shell, mask the inner part, and smooth the outside facing face. You can then make the core out of cheap pla, because at 42€/kg it's a bit expensive and it also probably is not very accurate due to smoothing.
PVB (Polyvinylbutyral) I didn't know this material, commonly used in windshields.
It's offerd by many companies even Prusa and all of these should work smoothing with Isopropanol.
First looks seem to proof the material is quite safe ( except little hazard with sanding dust).
And it should be mechanical even more stable than pla. So I'll definitely give it a try. Thanks for the video.
Deadpool spinning to the montage music was so perfect, It would make Ryan Reynolds proud!
I literally always have isopropyl alcohol. It's what I always use to clean my computers and my pipes. works great! I also keep it in a spray bottle so I wouldn't even need that fancy mist machine, just patience.
Must hurt
@@tsayon13 hurt what?
@@tsayon13 all it hurts is the resin build up
@@donaldhobson9027 Cleaning his "pipes" with alcohol.
I have 5 liters of the stuff myself.
There is something cool about the music you chose and Deadpool spinning around. Great job and keep it coming.
Good ole Synthwave. If you like that type of music and you're a gamer, give Katana Zero a try.
Ĺ⁰l
The piece is called Alienated - ELFL. Really cool B-roll shot from the machine.
Can't wait for the flsun sr review.
The timer is to be set according to how much smoothing you want, not for how big the model is. Finer layers needs less time. 20 minutes cooking will give you equal smoothing, no matter the size of the print.
Man you got some awesome presentation skills.
He can sell ice to penguin.
Love getting a Major Hardware video notification. 🎖
I hear subscribing gives you +10 to your tech skill.
Anyone else get RonCo flashbacks? "You just set it and forget it!"
I haven't watched tv on tv in years, sometimes I miss that campy late night stuff :P
Nostalgia makes everything better I guess.
I thought I had you for the whole fan show down then come find out you have another channel. I liked the review of this new product and how each part turned out
He has another channel?:o
Wow can't wait to see how this affects air resistance an outher factors of a 3d printed fan 👍👌
You should give eSun ABS+ a shot, still need an enclosure for good results, but low warp and low smell.
Also, all my vase-mode prints hold water, layer width of 2x nozzle diameter for the win!
For better effect you need to rotate the part inside. One side up, another side up and then it turns inside the machine, then it will be even better. 20 min total - 4 sides 5 min each
Hey there Major. You maybe want to have a look at "PVB" (in general), i guess thats what Polysmooth is, judging by their print parameters. For example Prusament PVB, which even is only 2/3rd of Polysmooths price and is somewhat transparent after smoothing. Especially when in vase mode with chunky layerheights.
Anyway, there are more PVBs out there, if you want to go nuts with smoothing. :D
this is a very good video, great job!
You should test some other properties of the plastic. Id imagine if it dissolves with iso, it would probably dissolve with other solvents too like ethanol. Im curious if theres a strength difference too
apparently Polysmooth (and any PVB filament like the new prusament stuff) once smoothed, you're meant to just leave it for a week to gain the full strength and not tacky-ness
that applies to any vapor smoothing, abs needs to dry veery long before it loses the gummyness
Do you think it can be cured in less time if put in a UV curing machine or nope ?
Cool concept, smoothing miniature models and stuff like that would probably make it worth the money.
I love that you have the Picard ❤ just ordered my first 3d printer with the intentions of making every Star Trek starship
Probably want a resin for that, otherwise you'll want to slice the models in half for some of them just so you don't have a bunch of supports to trim. You can do that pretty easy though, have fun!
Two possible alternatives to the vapour machine (1) dip print into IPA for 25-30 mins (2) use a spray bottle .
Nebulize IPA in what I can only assume is a small bomb machine. What's the fire hazard on that thing?
lol my nozzle on my new to me printer jammed on me on the first print, so now I;m watching your videos while waiting on spares and cleaning supplies.
I would be curious to know what sanding down the prints with sandpaper would do, would it make it smoother? Would it make it rougher? Would it even affect it at all? I've had this question in my head for a pretty long time
Should have done a new Picard bust for the table. ;)
The print in place items I would move it around a couple of times during the sauna.
smoothing your things
What could you smooth else?
The inside of the cooling stuff?
That is some interesting material. I agree with you about the issues with ABS, I try to avoid it because of the fumes.
I do notice on the Benchy and Octopus models you had some layer line misalignment. I've been running into a lot of that myself lately. Do you have any advice on dealing with that?
Youve probably figured out layer lines by now but i believe what i did was make the wall and top lines thicker. I forgot some of the other settings but now it doesnt have layer lines but the edges are almost balled now to the point that theres almost a seam on each corner
This is why I love printing with PETG. It's the best of both worlds of ABS and PLA.
That allen key set is GOAT.
I wonder if the smoothed octopus would retain proper movement if it moves while drying. Since there is a rotating platform, all you need is a stand and to tilt the whole setup. Then the rotation would keep legs moving during smoothing, but I think you want rotation to continue as the ipa evaporates.
I've had amazing results with acetone smoothing by doing multiple short passes and letting them dry for a few minutes in between. Curious to see if the polysher would have the same effect.
Agreed, multiple short cycles prevent the solvent penetrating the surface too deeply. Should work just the same with this, though doing this manually on this rather gimmicky machine looks like it would be a pain. It's something the manufacturers should consider though, along with getting rid of the silly rising platform.
U mean with a brush?
Would brushing IPA on it work, or should I only spray?
great video. i guess any house umidifier can be filled with alchool, and you could add vibrator to the spin table to avoid joint to get solded... i guess
I wonder if you could just paint on the ipa and forgo the chamber altogether... Maybe you could touch up deadpool's head, or other areas that didn't get quite smoothed enough.
That also makes me wonder if you can completely dissolve this filament in ipa and use it like you would with PLA for lost casting? IPA would certainly be easier to drive off than PLA.
vaporsmoothing with vaporwave tune nice one
If you sandpaper the 3D prints with a 1000 grit, it will smooth out the rougher lines, then do an acetone vapor chamber.
will making the best fan you printed smooth make it perform better?
I'd like to see how well masking with electrical tape or painter's tape works.
Nice video man!
Nebulizing 99% IPA into a small space like that seems like an explosion waiting to happen. Did the manual say anything about the fuel:air ratio being too low/high to be flammable, or did they ignore this?
Does this work with petg filament ?
Have you tried smoothing with brushing on resin and then curing it in UV light? I love Poly terra matte pla
I pretty much only use polyterra for my bulk filament because of the cardboard spool. I have to use a few other for different colors, but it's my main pla now.
Well, why don't you remove the transparent cover to put/take the model in/out instead?
Print your vases double wall thickness extrusion. Eg, perimeters at 0.8mm
Very interesting. Maybe have a bit of a "Vase" show down? Try printing 4 different vases, smoothing them out, and seeing if any of them will hold water. Or, re-visit the leader board for the fan show down, and print the top 5 to see if this method of smoothing has any different affects on the fan's performance. (Honestly, probably negligible, but an idea none the less)
G'day Major,
Great to see that companies are making more Environmentally Friendly versions of their Products & Packaging,
what I don't understand though is why they Don't use the more Environmentally Friendly Packaging like the Cardboard Reel for all their product lines???
The plastic reels are probably cheaper than the cardboard ones!
@@ferrumignis Yeah I get that, but they can claim it in the Environmentally Friendly Packaging in Advertising & adjust the price if needed,
I'm sure they are not taking a loss on the Environmentally Friendly version,
to me it just nullifies the 'We Care' attitude of the Environmentally Friendly version to 'We'll do anything for a sale'
Smooth some fans that were loud before and see if they are loud after smoothing?
Lol the Prusche 🤣 haven’t heard that one before but I love it
You know, there's a technique used in many programs to sharpen images, maybe you can do that to pre sharpen your prints and THEN run them through this. It works by taking several offset versions of the image, and then averaging them together, making a blur effect, and the by linearly interpolating between them, with the regular image being zero, and the blured image being one, you can scale it backwards to make it sharper.
What if you tried taking the model, nondestructively smoothing it out a tiny bit, and then lerping the vertices backwards.
Love the vids!!! Side note...the link you supply for the FLSUN SR goes to a QQ-S on Amazon...not a Super Racer!
Can you please try printing the FGC9-mkII?
I'd love to see polysmooth tested without a polisher and what would be the best technique. I used to successfully polish ABS prints in a box with walls lined with paper towels soaked in acetone..
You can print waterproof stuff on a prusamk3, just need to have the extrusion amount and overlap increased a little
The Poly Sher looks like it was definitely designed more with presentation in mind, rather than functionality. I could definitely think of a more practical design that would make it much more usable.
At 11:30 you said " I don't think you actually have to..." regarding using the polysher, but then you lose that train of thought. Since the polysher is currently unavailable on amazon, I'm wondering what you would suggest as an alternative method for smoothing the polysmooth prints. Thanks!
Nice video.
Is it a technical design flaw though that the machine only spray the alcohol from the bottom? Or does it also spray the alcohol also from teh top? Just wondering if spraying from both direction will make more even result.
Gravity will pull the mist into a density gradient no matter where the spray is. A small fan might help, but most of the problems he had were with the piece that was technically too big for the machine. There's also a small-but-reasonable chance that an electric fan could ignite just the right air-fuel mixture into a bomb. Most of them are not designed to be vapor-proof, and the fuel here (purposefully vaporized alcohol) is much more dense than most places you might use a fan, like for spray booth exhaust.
10:17 it will be stronger and will loose flexibility, its just the chemical property changed, it needs to be dryed, just wait 1-2 weeks depending on the thikness, also it can inproove the waterproof even if the extrusion isnt consistent at all.
would a fan or two insisde the smoothing device help distribute the vapor mor evenly?
dice!!! or masters for dice resin casting
Subscribed just because of your bad ass walleye Hoodie OUR FISH OUR FIGHT!
Maybe some fan designs would look cool overcooked like the biohazard or some blade design meant to look like slime.
You can also use acetone to smooth PLA though it takes a little more prep and some specific tools. Let me know if you want to know the process and I'll send you a list and and step plan how to do it. I developed the technique at the company I work at and was given permission to tell others about it seeing as we work with SLS where this doesn't work.
Would love to know how you do it
@@chiefkelly Hey, to use this method you will need a couple things.
A large metal or glass container/pot that fits the models you want to smooth.
An induction heater, you REALLY don't want any open flames or red hot elements due to the acetone vapors being highly flammable.
Stiff wires to dangle the model into the pot/container.
And Acetone.
I tend to use large 2 litre lab bekers for this as when the acetone is ready (boiling nicely) you will see a line a condensate move up the side of the container. Once this line get to the top your ready to carefully dunk your model into the vapors.
DON'T PASS THE EDGE OF THE CONTAINER WITH YOUR FINGERS! The vapors are hot enough to give instant burns. (We found out the hard way)
Once the model is in the vapors it will immediately get a wet look, swirl it in the pot for 5 seconds then take it out and see if it is smooth enough. Repeat with 5 sec exposures if necessary.
When your happy hang your model to dry.
Ok usual warning apply, only do this in a well ventilated area, no open flames of glowing hot elements and wear PPE's
This works because we aren't using a chemical smoothing technique as with acetone and ABS but using the super heated acetone vapor to melt the outer layer of the PLA.
Let me know how it goes if your try it and if you have any other questions
@@KylejvT Will a small countertop induction heater work for cooking? I've seen some for $85.
@@WestCoastDP Most definitely, a friend and former college uses one for his PLA smoothing. He's posted a video of the process for at home smoothing also testing various brands and types of PLA. Look up "Wayne's Workshop" and you should be able to find his channel and the video in question. If you have any other questions about the process please feel free to ask.
That mint is such a good color but overall they have some good colors.
7:15 whats the music? lol
Hi new to your channel and subscribed. I feel like you could recycle and repurpose an old microwave into a far higher quality polisher machine than the polysher. If your into tinkering, I would remove the heating element components and replace them with the sprayer components, seal the vents and seal the door if there is none. Place a tank under it and install a drain to the tank. Have sprayers on two bottom corners and one above it. Ultimately the design and size of the microwave you use is up to you, there are very large ones being thrown out in the wild.
So, since we're talking about post-processable plastics, although it might not be really useful for the fans you're printing on here, have you seen the volcano pla from form futura? A bit more constraining in terms of setup, because you basically need to have your printer installed next to an oven, but plastic you can anneal? Needs to do some more tests on it, but sign me up!
I'd just like to request if you'd be willing to print a fan and see how long it would last in use, like for days or weeks probably. I just wanna make sure I don't make a cooling system that ultimately explodes or shatters eventually.
few questions : Can you dip in ipa ? can you prime and spray paint ?
ford the Deadpool, because i printed one AND painted one a few weeks ago, it would be interesting how it looks after going over it with a primer spray and then pint it.....could safe some time priming/sanding/priming/sanding maybe
What is that metallic red filament you have of Picard?
Dude I am looking for ways to matte up my prints and you smooth them 😂
like the idea of smoothing prints, the one thing I what to try (when I can afford a printer) is to make a gothic style chess set and a Warhammer chess set
I would be interested in seeing you try to make a vase water tight.
When you print in Vase mode using a .4 nozzle bump your line width up to .6. it pushes more material and will make the walls way thicker and fill the holes. I make lots of Vase's and this works wicked.
I've been doing a fair bit of single-wall printing and find I have no problems with things being watertight. Just picked up an old failed print (failed halfway up) that is single perimeter with no infill... and poured some water in and sure enough, no leaks even with some rather complex curving and overhanging geometry.
I suspect what makes it work well for me is that I'm using 0.05mm layer height for my single perimeter prints. Finer layer height means more horizontal overlap from one layer to the next as the surface moves in the x/y directions. I think my use of fine layer height without changing line width, has similar effect to @Destructor429's bumping the line width up.
I would rather crank up the flow % modifier rather than mess with the line width. Also in my testing Rouge is right about thinner layers holding pressure better, although I only tested down to 0.1mm.
Yes!
W8 vases are NOT watertight? Do I have a super printer? Only if the model has sharp overhangs like that one the will it be watertight in my experience
This alcohol thing would be awesome for cleaning my dab rig if it got nice and warm.
It can be usted with just a towel with isopropilic alcohol or is needed the machine?
I got a 3d crested gecko print that's articulated but It's very scrappy, the thing is not smooth. Also I need help knowing how to paint it and how to smooth it down without getting rid of the natural bumps it has that is included in the model
I wonder if it would be safe to use a 5-gallon bucket and a small essential oil defuser?
Can you print in Polyurethane similar to the softened polyurethane that they use for long-board wheels.
Can you still do the old paper towel and tin foil technique you do for ABS with this stuff?
Id like to see if the collapsible sword can be smoothed unfortunately i feel like it would cause binding