Being a modeler for at least 45 years of my life, I am to the point where I want to sand 0%. Layer lines are the what keep me from purchasing a lot of 3D prints, and the main reason I buy from sellers who only show pictures of completed prints and not the stl preview files. I want to see their finished result, not what it's supposed to look like. It's also a reason I prefer resin prints. Good information here.
I use a .25 nozzle and print at .10 layer height. You barely see lines and if u do only a quick sanding or even primer is needed to fill those in. It takes longer to print but if you want higher quality that is what is needed
The best method, as ive learned this from UncleJessy, who learned from other enthusiast, is to use clear UV resin as a top coating. Fast, no dry time, easy sanding, and You keep alot of detail, while deleting the layer lines.
@@benjamin8399 that is true, but the dust is still toxic so if it rubs on anything and dust gets in the air it’s still not good for you. Also, I personally don’t do this because a lot of resins can inhibit silicone curing which is what I do with my prints.
@@Craftknights3D It's toxic BEFORE you cure it. After curing it, it might go yellow after drying but it takes a few weeks/months and you can always just paint it and use a varnish.
Another option that I prefer over resin and baby powder is bondo or another similar spot putty mixed with acetone. Dries super fast, is fairly cheap, and then once you sand it all the lines disappear. Afterwards can use the filler primer as a final pass so you don’t need to use as many filler primer and sand and prime passes as they are more expensive.
I have a third method: use an ironing tip with a soldering iron and carefully smooth your more rugged surfaces. This takes a gentle touch, and lingering over any point will discolore or melt your print.
Chemist here. Just wanna say that while PP plastics are highly resistant to acetone, this is only under standard conditions. For anyone reading, try to remain in an environment that is at room temperature (20-25 degrees Celsius or 68-77 degrees Fahrenheit) and stick to lower concentrations of acetone when using any and all acetone baths. methanol is also a really good alternative and is far less aggressive than acetone. so if anyone needs to adjust based on their environment, try out both the alcohol (methanol) and the ketone (acetone). just remember to wear goggles and gloves, and avoid inhaling fumes. I highly suggest wearing a mask when handling both methanol and acetone. both molecules have acute toxicity.
you're correct it is a ketone. I totally overlooked that while typing and meant to just say "methanol" is the alcohol hence its nomenclature. Thank you, I just fixed it.@@andrewalvarez8110
the main issue that I have with sanding is that it's always very uneven and it can wear away the outermost details while leaving roughness in the valleys of the print. I'm curious if you could use a rock tumbler with a very fine abrasive powder for smoothing PLA and PETG. It might be something worth experimenting with for my next project.
That's why he recommended spraying it with some sort of filler paint. What the filler paint essentially does is add an outer shell, and when you sand it back you leave the outer shell's high parts. (Better way to think of it is after it's sanded what you're left with is all of the indents from the layer lines filled in, which makes things smoother.)
There is another method, which I've recently tried and found to work - coating the part with Mod Podge. It does a good job of smoothing out layer lines but may need more than one coat, especially for thicker layer lines. An advantage of this product is that it dries clear.
Thank you for letting me know. I completely forgot about that method. I used to smooth smaller 3D prints with white craftsglue when I was new to 3D printing. It's a good method and you can prime and paint the model If you want to.
@@Brakzillaa that is certainly one method, but has disadvantages when compared to Mod Podge: 1) UV resin is more expensive than Mod Podge 2) UV resin is toxic - you'll need to wear gloves when working with it; Mod Podge doesn't need gloves 3) UV resin needs IPA or similar to clean up tools and spills; Mod Podge can be cleaned up with water 4) UV resin needs a UV source (torch or curing station) for curing; Mod Podge cures in air. If you have UV resin and a curing station then, yes, it's a reasonable method, but not everybody has those and Mod Podge is readily available.
Surprised to not see this in the comments already but "spatula" is not the correct translation of Spritz-Spachtel (that's a kitchen utensil). The nearest I can figure is "spray filler," but that's quite vague and doesn't resemble any product I've come across here in the US. Do you know what the main ingredients are? Is it a paint primer or epoxy based?
Didn't realize acetone off-gassed that much... I recently got a resin printer, but have yet to set it up because of paranoia about poor ventilation, and haven't finalized my plans for ducting out a window yet. I'll have to remember that sanding trick once I'm up and running.
Depending on your resin printer ,your prints are going to be far more detailed and smoother than a filament printer. I am no expert but I am going on a model I made with a filament printer and then seeing a bust of the main Character from God of War made by a average priced Anycubic 4 K resin Printer. The detail was so superior to what a filament printer can do. Yes it needed painting but there wasn't much sanding needed unless a lot of support materials was used and stuck to the model too well. Anyhow this is the fun world of 3D Printing ; printing something and seeing how it comes out.
@@drtaverner I've found that basic/standard resin doesn't have much off-gassing of VOCs. I have my Anycubic Mono 4K printer in my garage and, while I do smell resin, neither the wife or I find it very strong. I open the garage to air it out for 5-10 minutes and go back at it. The printer comes with a UV blocking cover, so the fumes don't waft around much. ABS type resin and some others (I guess?) are supposed to produce a lot more VOCs and should be in an enclosure with a venting solution (outdoor venting or a filter for indoors).
Yes you can but you should keep in mind that melting plastic will produce harmfull or even toxic fumes, depending on the type of plastic. So wear proper protection when doing this. But yes, it is absolutely possible and can yield great results!
@@Craftknights3D yeah good to know it works, but melting more hazardous plastics would already be an issue to address with the printing process as well.
I never heard about the spray on spatula method and I think it’ll be perfect for minis even though acetone could be good though I print with PLA due to fumes that ABS produces when printing.
How do you smooth Silk/multi color PLA? I don’t want to cover it with a primer and paint over it. I want to keep the color of the filament, but some parts of my prints are rough when I remove the tree supports.
You can smooth PLA with chemicals but I absolutely don't recommend that. Instead I recommend that you tune your slicer settings so that your supports can be removed cleaner.
PU varnish. It will take some time til it´s cured but it´s not as toxic as UV resin is and it will get rid of layer lines pretty well, also you can paint right afterwards and apply it with a brush, I hate that sprayed shit, I don´t want to go outside or get some ventilation for inside.
You are right. Varnish is also a good alternative. You just have to be careful that you don't apply too much at once, in my experience. Or you end up with dried drops on the surface of the model.
@@Craftknights3D Yes this is true, however this goes for all surface applicants. The good thing is you can decide how heavy you want to go with the stuff. What I am interested in is "mod podge" OR (what it actually is) wood glue watered down and applied through a spray bottle. Not the kind of spray bottle with gas and pressure but the one you press down again and gain with your thumb, like a parfume bottle. Try that stuff out.
Hi, I decided to make a 3D print of an anime figure, I'm torn between ABS and resin, which one is better for printing? And which one is easier to paint? What kind of color can be painted on them? Please help:,))
Pla is generally the easiest filament to print with. After that, you can sand, prime, and Paint the figure. You can use any paint you like but I prefer acrylic paint for miniature painting.
I got a crested gecko articulated print that is very scrappy, I need to know how to smooth it without getting rid of the bumps. And I don't know what to paint it with. Please help me.
I'll add a few additional ways, and what you'll use depends on your material, and what you printed: Acetone polish: Great for acetone, but best done outside or in well ventilated location. Sanding: Slow method, really dusty, time consuming, but the end result looks better every grit level you increase (800-1000 for final sanding process). Palm/Detail Sander: Start with a medium grit (200-500) and finish off with high grit by hand. Card Scrapers: Really great for smoothing, removes shavings from plastic, and can finish off with fine grit for final touches (start with the larger scrapers, then down to small scrapers for texture and detailing). Acetone Slurry: Mixture of acetone and scrap ABS/PLA plastic bits dissolved. Fills in the lines, and adheres to the surface perfectly. Will need light sanding afterward as the dried surface is polish smooth and won't hold pain well. Resin: will need to mount your object on something, and paint resin onto surface. Need to mind how much you apply as it could complicate the final appearance.
Thanks for the video, it was very informative, I just have a couple of questions if you don't mind me asking? The Acetone how much detail loss do you have? and what would be the Scottish Equivalent of the Spatula Spray? thanks
The longer the Print is exposed to the Acetone the more it will dissolve and therefore smooth the surface. So usually the detail loss is not that bad. A more acurate translation of spatula spray would be spray on filler.
I'd love to know that as well! As chemical smoothing with pla is only possible with more hazardous chemicals like chloroform, I don't really want to try that.with Sanding, sandblasting and stuff like filler or resin you will loose a lot of detail, also it's a lot of work - haven't found a good method for pla yet...
I'm sure many people mentioned it, but this would've been better if you did these things to the SAME model. Melt the shark for 15 minutes, melt the shark for an hour, and the sand the shark to REALLY see the differences.
PLA can not be smoothed with Acetone. It can only be smoothed by sanding it, by using a filler, by using Resin, or by using very aggressive chemicals (not recommended).
Sorry I just can't imagine it being a good or safe idea using acetone on something that will handle an item that will be consumed by a person . There is a filament that is specifically used as it's meant for food utensils ; not sure what it's called( you may already know it's name) If you haven't already done it I would google up as much info about using acetone and whether it leaves behind any residual residue! Maybe even ring the company who makes it but I would assume they will advise you to not put it on food utensils.
@@Craftknights3D lol I can't afford a printer but I saw a video where a guy 3D printed a fantastic four Thing and couldn't get the supports out of the eyes so he hit it gently with a heat gun and it was able to break off like normal it even smoothed up the plastic a bit as a bonus. I remembered wrong and thought it was a torch lol
A Resin printer has its own disadvantages. Resin ist more expensive and a big resin printer capable of printing Cosplay armor will cost you thousands of Dollars. So resin printers aren`t an option for everyone.
What method do you mean? PLA can't be smoothed with Acetone. This method only works with ABS. If you want to smooth PLA then the safest way is to use spray primer and sandpaper.
You should consider setting the volume of your video higher, when generally your voice is about -18 db and sometimes goes to -12 db. It is too silent and most of the people would not consider watching, because they are lazy and don't have enough patience to turn volume up.
When making cosplay, no one really cares about the small little details. Especially when it is part of a whole outfit. Keeping some layer lines and flaws make it look even more homemade than just perfectly molded parts
You forgot method 3 Get some sprayeble varnish Spray it dry it and done It deffenetly not as perfect as what you are doing but it pretty much gets the job done, gets it shiny and is only 3% off all the work you put in
You missed a method. Resin coating. There's UV resin method, and there's a type of resin specifically for smoothing 3d prints. The 2nd one, you lose detail. But at the same time it's essentially prepare the resin by mixing it. Let it go through it's exothermic reaction in some tin foil. Then brush it over your print. Just thick enough to cover your layer lines. Keep brushing the model for drip control for about 20 minutes while the resin hardens. And as soon as it won't drip anymore, you're good. If you do it right, there should be little to no sanding left to do. No brush strokes or layer lines showing. Just don't expect to be able to slop it on and have it work. It's important to be there for drip control. This is a good method for prints you want to be strong. Like cosplay/paintball/airsoft helmets as the next thing to do is usually impregnating your print from the inside with another kind of resin or doing resin/fiberglass reinforcement on the inside. Or both. Keep in mind with brushed on resin you are likely to lose small details depending on your skill. The more skilled your brushwork. The less you can use to make it work. The less detail you'll lose.
I mentioned Resin coating at the end. It is a good method but, as I mentioned in other comments, I personally don't like this method because of the toxic fumes that resin produces while it cures.
there are soooo many other ways to smoothing prints i use UV Resin, platic epoxy, platic wood. but saying that there are only two ways is not a ways to start a video. I've had amazing results with epoxy putty, combined with UV resin on my Mando helmet with nearly flawless results as long as you know the proper way to do it.
Spachtel is not an English term. I had no idea what you were using. Google translate wasn't much help. Spray on Filler will make more sense to the English only speakers.
At 6:31 I said that I use "Spray on Spatula". It's the literal translation. The better translation would have been "spray filler" or "spray putty", you are correct. But there are also links in the description to the items I used in this video.
This video is only a year old. If you are not printing ABS nearly resin smooth then your settings are off my friend. There is NO need to smooth prints this way even a year ago.
There are also primer/fillers. They do the job of both in one product. Self etching primer/filler is what I look for.
Being a modeler for at least 45 years of my life, I am to the point where I want to sand 0%. Layer lines are the what keep me from purchasing a lot of 3D prints, and the main reason I buy from sellers who only show pictures of completed prints and not the stl preview files. I want to see their finished result, not what it's supposed to look like. It's also a reason I prefer resin prints. Good information here.
I use a .25 nozzle and print at .10 layer height. You barely see lines and if u do only a quick sanding or even primer is needed to fill those in. It takes longer to print but if you want higher quality that is what is needed
@@com34x Also good information, thanks!
@@com34x what printer and material do you use?
The best method, as ive learned this from UncleJessy, who learned from other enthusiast, is to use clear UV resin as a top coating. Fast, no dry time, easy sanding, and You keep alot of detail, while deleting the layer lines.
The reason why I don't like this method is because resin is expensive and toxic when it hardens.
@@Craftknights3D It's toxic before it hardens, once cured it's safe to handle
@@benjamin8399dust particles tho
@@benjamin8399 that is true, but the dust is still toxic so if it rubs on anything and dust gets in the air it’s still not good for you. Also, I personally don’t do this because a lot of resins can inhibit silicone curing which is what I do with my prints.
@@Craftknights3D It's toxic BEFORE you cure it. After curing it, it might go yellow after drying but it takes a few weeks/months and you can always just paint it and use a varnish.
Another option that I prefer over resin and baby powder is bondo or another similar spot putty mixed with acetone. Dries super fast, is fairly cheap, and then once you sand it all the lines disappear. Afterwards can use the filler primer as a final pass so you don’t need to use as many filler primer and sand and prime passes as they are more expensive.
I have a third method: use an ironing tip with a soldering iron and carefully smooth your more rugged surfaces. This takes a gentle touch, and lingering over any point will discolore or melt your print.
This method is OK. The big issue with this method is that some plastics like ABS, for example, generate slightly toxic fumes when melted.
Chemist here.
Just wanna say that while PP plastics are highly resistant to acetone, this is only under standard conditions. For anyone reading, try to remain in an environment that is at room temperature (20-25 degrees Celsius or 68-77 degrees Fahrenheit) and stick to lower concentrations of acetone when using any and all acetone baths.
methanol is also a really good alternative and is far less aggressive than acetone. so if anyone needs to adjust based on their environment, try out both the alcohol (methanol) and the ketone (acetone).
just remember to wear goggles and gloves, and avoid inhaling fumes. I highly suggest wearing a mask when handling both methanol and acetone. both molecules have acute toxicity.
Thank you for your Input! Very helpful!
@@Craftknights3D Pin the comment :)
acetone is not an alcohol lol. does not have the hydroxyl group, but a carbonyl. but otherwise great advice
you're correct it is a ketone. I totally overlooked that while typing and meant to just say "methanol" is the alcohol hence its nomenclature. Thank you, I just fixed it.@@andrewalvarez8110
Where did he say it was an alcohol?
I tried the spray spatula and it worked like a charm. I was too lazy to sand it but it's still so much better. Thanks for the video.
the main issue that I have with sanding is that it's always very uneven and it can wear away the outermost details while leaving roughness in the valleys of the print. I'm curious if you could use a rock tumbler with a very fine abrasive powder for smoothing PLA and PETG. It might be something worth experimenting with for my next project.
That's why he recommended spraying it with some sort of filler paint. What the filler paint essentially does is add an outer shell, and when you sand it back you leave the outer shell's high parts. (Better way to think of it is after it's sanded what you're left with is all of the indents from the layer lines filled in, which makes things smoother.)
Tumbling prints may be a nice solution : th-cam.com/video/TlD9USAhcEs/w-d-xo.html
lemme know how that works!!
@@BombShoteven then the op’s stands, I don’t think you understand that.
Thanks for this, i'll try the acetone route since i have some. I've read many bad reviews about PVB filament so i'm not eager to try it.
Spray spatula is a great idea. WIll try that. Also I will try gently blow torching it.
There is another method, which I've recently tried and found to work - coating the part with Mod Podge. It does a good job of smoothing out layer lines but may need more than one coat, especially for thicker layer lines.
An advantage of this product is that it dries clear.
Thank you for letting me know. I completely forgot about that method. I used to smooth smaller 3D prints with white craftsglue when I was new to 3D printing.
It's a good method and you can prime and paint the model If you want to.
Instead of Mod podge, I recommend Clear UV resin.
@@Brakzillaa also an Option. However Resin ist more expensive than modpodge and it releases toxic fumes while it hardens.
@@Brakzillaa that is certainly one method, but has disadvantages when compared to Mod Podge:
1) UV resin is more expensive than Mod Podge
2) UV resin is toxic - you'll need to wear gloves when working with it; Mod Podge doesn't need gloves
3) UV resin needs IPA or similar to clean up tools and spills; Mod Podge can be cleaned up with water
4) UV resin needs a UV source (torch or curing station) for curing; Mod Podge cures in air.
If you have UV resin and a curing station then, yes, it's a reasonable method, but not everybody has those and Mod Podge is readily available.
Do you have a type of mod podge you recommend? I didn't realize there's so many types 😅
That pokeball made me sub! Looks like this channel is worth it
I strongly recomienda u guys to use transparent nail varnish instado of resine. It is cheaper, easier to use and gives better results
Very helpfull, thank you I am new at working with 3D printing so this was a big help.
Surprised to not see this in the comments already but "spatula" is not the correct translation of Spritz-Spachtel (that's a kitchen utensil). The nearest I can figure is "spray filler," but that's quite vague and doesn't resemble any product I've come across here in the US. Do you know what the main ingredients are? Is it a paint primer or epoxy based?
There are like 10 comments about that and I already answered all of them. The correct translation would be spray filler.
Didn't realize acetone off-gassed that much...
I recently got a resin printer, but have yet to set it up because of paranoia about poor ventilation, and haven't finalized my plans for ducting out a window yet. I'll have to remember that sanding trick once I'm up and running.
Depending on your resin printer ,your prints are going to be far more detailed and smoother than a filament printer. I am no expert but I am going on a model I made with a filament printer and then seeing a bust of the main Character from God of War made by a average priced Anycubic 4 K resin Printer. The detail was so superior to what a filament printer can do. Yes it needed painting but there wasn't much sanding needed unless a lot of support materials was used and stuck to the model too well. Anyhow this is the fun world of 3D Printing ; printing something and seeing how it comes out.
@@jayson8118 I thought the fun was printing something, getting angry at yourself for not getting it right, and then repeating.
I have reactions to VOCs and I'm pretty sure I'll need a ventilator and fume hood for a resin printer.
@@drtaverner I've found that basic/standard resin doesn't have much off-gassing of VOCs. I have my Anycubic Mono 4K printer in my garage and, while I do smell resin, neither the wife or I find it very strong. I open the garage to air it out for 5-10 minutes and go back at it. The printer comes with a UV blocking cover, so the fumes don't waft around much. ABS type resin and some others (I guess?) are supposed to produce a lot more VOCs and should be in an enclosure with a venting solution (outdoor venting or a filter for indoors).
Wondering if you could use a hot soldering iron or something to smooth things out that way.
Yes you can but you should keep in mind that melting plastic will produce harmfull or even toxic fumes, depending on the type of plastic. So wear proper protection when doing this. But yes, it is absolutely possible and can yield great results!
@@Craftknights3D yeah good to know it works, but melting more hazardous plastics would already be an issue to address with the printing process as well.
Could I put the acetone in a glass bowl inside the plastic container instead of pouring it in the bottom
The answer is yes if anyone is wondering. I use a glass bowl that had a plastic lid that I use to store it. There isn’t much waste.
I use a heat gun made for soldering and desoldering so I can control the temperature precisely and can “fix” any mistakes imbedded in the print
I never heard about the spray on spatula method and I think it’ll be perfect for minis even though acetone could be good though I print with PLA due to fumes that ABS produces when printing.
loved u video, btw i love that pokoball, whats the layer height and the nozzle ??
How do you smooth Silk/multi color PLA? I don’t want to cover it with a primer and paint over it. I want to keep the color of the filament, but some parts of my prints are rough when I remove the tree supports.
You can smooth PLA with chemicals but I absolutely don't recommend that. Instead I recommend that you tune your slicer settings so that your supports can be removed cleaner.
For the acetone method would this ruins prints with hinges?
Only If you leave it in for too long.
Just curious to the acetone releasing from the plastic if submerged in water after
PU varnish. It will take some time til it´s cured but it´s not as toxic as UV resin is and it will get rid of layer lines pretty well, also you can paint right afterwards and apply it with a brush, I hate that sprayed shit, I don´t want to go outside or get some ventilation for inside.
You are right. Varnish is also a good alternative. You just have to be careful that you don't apply too much at once, in my experience. Or you end up with dried drops on the surface of the model.
@@Craftknights3D Yes this is true, however this goes for all surface applicants. The good thing is you can decide how heavy you want to go with the stuff.
What I am interested in is "mod podge" OR (what it actually is) wood glue watered down and applied through a spray bottle. Not the kind of spray bottle with gas and pressure but the one you press down again and gain with your thumb, like a parfume bottle. Try that stuff out.
ASA vapor polishes with acetone as well, and it's UV resistant. I think ASA is far superior to ABS, easier to print as well
Interesting. I didn't know that ASA reacts to acetone. Thanks for the Tip! And I agree. ASA is generally better than ABS.
I can't find the spatula/spachtel spray, what is it exactly? When I Google it German sites show up.
There is a link in the description. Its Spray filler
Never tried it but heat from a heatgun or soldering iron?
This is so helpful
What is spray on spatula? Is there an something similar in the U.S.?
I think a better translation would be spray filler.
What's stopping you from just using q dremel?
Danke, genau den spühspachtel habe ich auch und bin gerade dabei ihn zu benutzen ^^
Hi, I decided to make a 3D print of an anime figure, I'm torn between ABS and resin, which one is better for printing?
And which one is easier to paint? What kind of color can be painted on them?
Please help:,))
Pla is generally the easiest filament to print with. After that, you can sand, prime, and Paint the figure. You can use any paint you like but I prefer acrylic paint for miniature painting.
How about sand blasting the PLA?
If you have the means to do so. But you might loose some fine details.
I got a crested gecko articulated print that is very scrappy, I need to know how to smooth it without getting rid of the bumps. And I don't know what to paint it with. Please help me.
I think the best thing you can do is use a filler primer in a color that you like and apply that to the model in multiple thin coats.
Where can i find the model of the pokeball print? Looks pretty good!
All links should be in the description.
@@Craftknights3D hmm, i cant see one for the models, only the materials
You are right. So sorry, I have updated the description. All links to the models used in the video should be there now.
couldn't you use a cotton swab be used to smooth the surface?
To apply the Acetone? Yes sure.
I'll add a few additional ways, and what you'll use depends on your material, and what you printed:
Acetone polish: Great for acetone, but best done outside or in well ventilated location.
Sanding: Slow method, really dusty, time consuming, but the end result looks better every grit level you increase (800-1000 for final sanding process).
Palm/Detail Sander: Start with a medium grit (200-500) and finish off with high grit by hand.
Card Scrapers: Really great for smoothing, removes shavings from plastic, and can finish off with fine grit for final touches (start with the larger scrapers, then down to small scrapers for texture and detailing).
Acetone Slurry: Mixture of acetone and scrap ABS/PLA plastic bits dissolved. Fills in the lines, and adheres to the surface perfectly. Will need light sanding afterward as the dried surface is polish smooth and won't hold pain well.
Resin: will need to mount your object on something, and paint resin onto surface. Need to mind how much you apply as it could complicate the final appearance.
Why am i here? I dont even own. 3d printer
😂
Glad you made it though!
You soon will
Time to get one
Fue la pokeball...te capturó!😊
What grit sandpaper is best to use?
Depends. 80 - 100 grit for rough sanding and anywhere from 150 to 400 for smooth sanding. Really depends on how smooth you want it to be.
@@Craftknights3D thank you!
What is this ABS, PLA, or PETG type of filament the fish one
ABS
Thanks for the video, it was very informative, I just have a couple of questions if you don't mind me asking? The Acetone how much detail loss do you have? and what would be the Scottish Equivalent of the Spatula Spray? thanks
The longer the Print is exposed to the Acetone the more it will dissolve and therefore smooth the surface. So usually the detail loss is not that bad. A more acurate translation of spatula spray would be spray on filler.
@@Craftknights3D Cheers
How do I get the file for that print?
Does the acetone method work with PLA?
No.
Do you have any tips for smoothing very small PLA models? I'm making model railway figures so they need to retain fine details.
I'd love to know that as well! As chemical smoothing with pla is only possible with more hazardous chemicals like chloroform, I don't really want to try that.with Sanding, sandblasting and stuff like filler or resin you will loose a lot of detail, also it's a lot of work - haven't found a good method for pla yet...
Can you paint after acetone smoothing?
Sure. But you should apply a plastic primer before you paint it. If you don´t apply a primer then the paint will not adhere properly to the plastic.
@@Craftknights3D I see, that would also be a way to dull the shine.
Exactly!
The problem with the acetone method is most people don't print with abs because it's a bit trickier and more expensive.
That is absolutely true. Although, ABS is cheaper than PLA in some countries.
@@Craftknights3D does it work with petg to?
Anyone got any spray alternatives to spray on spatula because I can't find it anywhere online.
I translated it wrong. It`s called spray filler.
@@Craftknights3D ok cool so I can use any spray filler correct?
Does the acetone method work for PLA as well or only ABS?
ABS is more expensive. its not viable for me.
Works only on Abs.
the cc said you had some spray on spatula
I'm sure many people mentioned it, but this would've been better if you did these things to the SAME model. Melt the shark for 15 minutes, melt the shark for an hour, and the sand the shark to REALLY see the differences.
You are right. That would have been better.
What if we use the first technique with PLA?
PLA can not be smoothed with Acetone. It can only be smoothed by sanding it, by using a filler, by using Resin, or by using very aggressive chemicals (not recommended).
@@Craftknights3D won’t resin still show the layers?
Great info on print smoothing, not so great spray painting technique 😆
what is the model of your 3d printer?
Does this work with sla prints
Does the acetone approach work with PLA?
No. Only Abs
What type of sand paper did you use ? Or recommend
Just plain old sandpaper.
Will this work on nylon?
Nylon can not be smoothed with Acetone.
Only works with abs ?
Acetone only works with Abs.
Have you ever tried to flock your parts after printing? You will get a smoth velvet like surface.
You could put tape over the parts you want to keep detailed while using acetone
Is layering medical equipment with acetone ok ?? Like pill boxes or syringes or spoons for syrup
Sorry I just can't imagine it being a good or safe idea using acetone on something that will handle an item that will be consumed by a person . There is a filament that is specifically used as it's meant for food utensils ; not sure what it's called( you may already know it's name)
If you haven't already done it I would google up as much info about using acetone and whether it leaves behind any residual residue! Maybe even ring the company who makes it but I would assume they will advise you to not put it on food utensils.
@@jayson8118 Lab grade acetone will completely evaporate.
Will this work with a resin print
Sanding, priming, and painting, yes. But acetone will not affect resin prints.
Where's the file to that pokeball?!
In the description.
Can you only use ABS with acetone or can you use it on FDM?
FDM means "Fused Deposition modeling" and it is a type of manufacturing. It is not a plastic. And acetone will only smooth ABS
Thanks for a really great video - this was super helpful and very informative - excellent work!
❤very informative for me
Does this work for PLA
Acetone does not work on PLA. You can use spray filler and sand the model to remove layer lines.
Awesome video!
Could you just put a glass or metal cut of acetone into the bin rather than filling the bottom?
Possible. It doesn`t take much to dissolve the plastic.
That's nice to know it! Tnx a lot
What in the world is spray on spatula and where can i find it in america
I have answered that multiple times already. A better translation would have been "spray filler".
Awesome
what about using fire? 😁
A bit extreme but hey, if it works for you.
@@Craftknights3D lol I can't afford a printer but I saw a video where a guy 3D printed a fantastic four Thing and couldn't get the supports out of the eyes so he hit it gently with a heat gun and it was able to break off like normal it even smoothed up the plastic a bit as a bonus. I remembered wrong and thought it was a torch lol
Vielen Dank! :) Ich werde Ausschau nach der Sprühdose halten. Weiter so!
you can mix uv resin and baby powder too uncle jesse shows this and i do like it
Didint know about the polysmooth filaments, thanks for telling me about it! I will definitely try, sound very interesting =)
06:25 spray on spatula? what? lol
Spray filler would be a more acurate translation.
its only for abs
PETG?
Use spray filler and sandpaper.
One of the wing is nearly melted
Or you can use a resin printer instead
A Resin printer has its own disadvantages. Resin ist more expensive and a big resin printer capable of printing Cosplay armor will cost you thousands of Dollars. So resin printers aren`t an option for everyone.
What's wrong with layer lines
Tq bro
I tried this with a PLA print. Kept it in there for about an hour. Didn’t smooth anything out, just made it flimsy.
What method do you mean? PLA can't be smoothed with Acetone. This method only works with ABS. If you want to smooth PLA then the safest way is to use spray primer and sandpaper.
I always assumed this was more due to the 3d printer and settings used. I don't own a 3d printer.
You will always see some layer lines. Even in resin prints (barely visible).
The plastic bin is important. Do not use a bathtub
Well, i have a lot of PP because i drank 2 gallons of water.
You should consider setting the volume of your video higher, when generally your voice is about -18 db and sometimes goes to -12 db. It is too silent and most of the people would not consider watching, because they are lazy and don't have enough patience to turn volume up.
Thanks for the feedback. I`m still figuring things out and audio is one of the more difficult things to geht right.
When making cosplay, no one really cares about the small little details. Especially when it is part of a whole outfit. Keeping some layer lines and flaws make it look even more homemade than just perfectly molded parts
Hold up, let me just 3prints a workshop.
You forgot method 3
Get some sprayeble varnish
Spray it dry it and done
It deffenetly not as perfect as what you are doing but it pretty much gets the job done, gets it shiny and is only 3% off all the work you put in
You missed a method. Resin coating. There's UV resin method, and there's a type of resin specifically for smoothing 3d prints. The 2nd one, you lose detail. But at the same time it's essentially prepare the resin by mixing it. Let it go through it's exothermic reaction in some tin foil. Then brush it over your print. Just thick enough to cover your layer lines. Keep brushing the model for drip control for about 20 minutes while the resin hardens. And as soon as it won't drip anymore, you're good. If you do it right, there should be little to no sanding left to do. No brush strokes or layer lines showing. Just don't expect to be able to slop it on and have it work. It's important to be there for drip control. This is a good method for prints you want to be strong. Like cosplay/paintball/airsoft helmets as the next thing to do is usually impregnating your print from the inside with another kind of resin or doing resin/fiberglass reinforcement on the inside. Or both. Keep in mind with brushed on resin you are likely to lose small details depending on your skill. The more skilled your brushwork. The less you can use to make it work. The less detail you'll lose.
I mentioned Resin coating at the end. It is a good method but, as I mentioned in other comments, I personally don't like this method because of the toxic fumes that resin produces while it cures.
You didn't finish the video...
@@phreshxmetal Pretty sure I did finish the video. Might've spaced. That or wasn't sure if he meant 3d printer resin or stuff like x3d
I dont wanna impregnate my prints 😖
this guy owns a pp bucket.....crazy world we live in.
there are soooo many other ways to smoothing prints i use UV Resin, platic epoxy, platic wood. but saying that there are only two ways is not a ways to start a video. I've had amazing results with epoxy putty, combined with UV resin on my Mando helmet with nearly flawless results as long as you know the proper way to do it.
Spachtel is not an English term. I had no idea what you were using. Google translate wasn't much help. Spray on Filler will make more sense to the English only speakers.
At 6:31 I said that I use "Spray on Spatula". It's the literal translation. The better translation would have been "spray filler" or "spray putty", you are correct. But there are also links in the description to the items I used in this video.
Also known as Stucco-spray… you will never make everyone happy… gotta love the level of your application @tinayoga8844 🤦🏼♂️
good video but smoothning a abs articulated model is just stupid 9 ot of 10 times it fuses the hinges together and then that model is dumpster ready
You can smooth articulate models Like that. You just have to bei careful and make sure that you don't expose the Print for too long.
This video is only a year old. If you are not printing ABS nearly resin smooth then your settings are off my friend. There is NO need to smooth prints this way even a year ago.
There are several reasons to smooth 3D prints still.
Protect the details and then put in acetone
Gu