How To Print With Nylon On The Creality Ender 3 3D Printer
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 พ.ค. 2024
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I'm an old Dinosaur from the 50's, and my son just got one of these machines, and I cannot in my own mind believe what I'm seeing. Mind Boggling for sure. I tore down a KD Linear Actuator that wasn't working and found that the Nylon Drive gear, which was being driven by a steel spiral off the end of the motor armature, had damaged one side of the gear, thus rendering the actuator useless. Couldn't find a gear, they wanted to sell you the whole actuator. So my son is going to try to make me one if I can get the damaged gear off. Your Video was interesting and it looks like it might work for what I need done. Thank You for filming it. But really doesn't it sound stupid to drive a nylon gear with a steel gear, I know, everything is throw away any more, just buy a new one, but just maybe, 3 D printing will solve that problem.
👍
I too am from the 50's and have a few printers running, I will try and print what I need before buying comercially produced, it's the satisfaction element.
Most garage door openers drive a nylon wheel with either a steel or nylon worm. All the ones I have fixed actually wore out the bronze bushings On the output shaft which allowed the worm and wheel to misalign, You typically want one hard and one soft part or low friction interface…think of a crankshaft on Babbitt or silver lined brass bearing shells.
They typically add a nylon gear for a predictable failure point. That way you don't have a bunch of stripped steel gears, just the one
did your kid ever build that gear for you?
Awesome! Nylon is likely the easiest "engineering" plastic to print, so it's good you're putting out info on printing it with accessible equipment.
Excellent; quick, concise to the point video with 99% of the necessary information...
Appreciate the tips always takes some trial and error to dial in your prints
Thanks so much man. This really helped me decide on the Ender 3. Great to know it's doable with the stock parts, but I'll probably get the all metal hot end.
I got an Ender 3 pro last week from some sketchy site that I was pretty sure was just gonna take my money and run. I love it, still working on printing out upgrades. Direct drive and all metal hot end are the first two I’m gonna try
Great video and pleasantly not blasted with music which detracts from the content, which happens far too much on other videos. A great help, thanks.
I learned some new stuff, the glue stick on glass, great!!!!
Tks for the vid. I just got PCTPE for the first time. Adhesion is a major issue. Will try glue stick and a hotter print bed setting next. Mostly ventued with PLA and PLA+. Way easier to print with.
I made a wooden cube out of 1x1 fir and fitted a space blanket around it using tape. With the bottom open i can cover the whole printer so that breezes and dust is not a problem also keeps the printer warm if you are printing in an unheated place.
Nice out-of-the box box!
very clean prints!
Thank you Very much! You fixed my problem, but it's a weird case... I used these settings in a PLA filament, this is Crazy but worked...( Generic PLA)
Sugar water is the best bed adhesive. 1 part sugar 2 parts water by weight and you'll never need any glue stick or hair spray ever again, plus your prints are sweet.
That sounds crazy but I'm curious to try it!
With this method I 3D printed my first cake 🎂
Woah. That sounds so crazy it just might work. XD
Good job. Looks great.
Cool info :D do you have any tips for printing Nylon with Supports? Unfortunately a dual extruder is not an option, I do have an All metal hotend aa steel nozzle...
Thanks mate, should work a treat on my basic ender 3 with a direct drive all metal hotend.
Were you able to reach those temperatures with the factory main board?
Do you dry your Nylon filament each time you print? If so, oven or food dehydrator?
Thank you (a year-ish) later. Your experiments and results answered all but my two, newbee questions: 1. can common tempered plate glass be used on the bed? 2. Would it help to use a thermal paste between the existing bed and the glass? (Clean up issues aside.) Thanks again for your time - much appreciated!
I would assume it would, I think that thermal pads would be better just because its a bit easier to clean up.
Do you have a profile for petg with your hotend setup. I'm having a hard time with it
I printed nylon with mine and it worked great besides inhaling toxic fumes.
Did this Direct Drive kit come with an All Metal Hot End ?
Or did you upgrade it to all metal afterwards
is the nylon you're using a filament for printers or just the nylon you can buy at a hardware store?
can you print pC or carbon fiber with
Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend Kit ? on ender 3 ?
Been printing CF nylon with the stock hotend at 250 C with Capricorn tubing on my Ender 3 Pro.
Textured glass bed with glue stick.
No cooling, hardened steel nozzle, 4mm retraction distance at 30mm/s. Dry it before use.
I like that bro I’ve been trying to learn how to print with thisWithout having to fully modify my printer because I have an engine three pro with exact same set up you just mentioned
What is the exact filiment you are using in this video? I've been trying to print with 3D maker nylon 6 and it's a lot whiter looking. I've been having problems with layer delamination even at 260 deg. The hottest I can get my printer hot end to go.
Would there be any problems with the stock boden?
Nice walkthrou
Thanks for sharing 👍😀
Thank you :)
Thank you 🙏🖤
how to deal with over extrusion? have you had this problem printing with nylon? Do you have to lower the flow rate?
I have an Ender 3 pro, I tried to rig it for nylon but I can't figure out how to raise the 260 c limit it has on the firmware. I ran a direct drive and started using a powered coated PEI bed sheet. I've since bought a Sovol v6 that is nylon ready, and had some success, although one print I tried to use just the tabs, and have to clean off the heat block of the plastic build up. The part was about half done and it came off and stuck to the hotend despite the heat sock on it.
Looking for an IDEX which has easy to swap out nozzles so you can fit different nozzles.
Is the direct drive needed? Or just all metal hotend?
hi there, does anyone have any suggestions for dealing with the fumes created by printing Nylon. (Would an enclosure and fan help?) thanks!
Which nylon filament are you using and do you have a Cura materal settings file to share? I've got an Ender 3 and recently got the Ender 5 Plus. I'd like to get into printing RC parts for my Traxxas Slash and Axial crawlers. Definitely considering getting the hotend kit for both printers if I can find a good reliable filament.
any nylon works I got mine from amazon, just make sure to dry it out in an oven or dehydrator
Can you print with fishing line? If yes is it safe to use and will it harm my 3D printer?
Hi, I want to print with nylon but a worry is upgrading the hotend, Do I have to write to the firmware or sumit if I replaced this
I have the same Ender set up with the micro swiss and the direct drive system I was wondering if you adjusted your flow rate for printing. Did you also have to calibrate xyz axis and e steps
I did. XY unchanged, Z 404, E 140.1. Extruder is the biggest change because the gear is smaller. Your mileage may vary.
Fantastic tutorial, beautiful prints, I would like to ask you, I have an Artillery Genius, do you think it could be good for nylon printing? Which filament do you use? Thanks for your time !
Im not super familiar with that printer, but overture nylon is the cheapest and also the easiest to print in my opinion. It's about 30 US dollars per kilogram spool. Its not a normal nylon filament so dont print it like normal nylon. Follow printing instructions for polymakers nylon copa or for overtures nylon (overture nylon is a nylon 6 and nylon 6.6 copolymer just like the polymaker nylon copa, but the overture brand is much cheaper). Do not use the nylon setting on your printer. Prints at 260c with 45c bed temps. I print at speeds anywhere from 20mm-70mm/s. It can't do crazy overhangs super well without supports, but other than that it prints beautifully and its unbelievably strong if you anneal it at 80-90c for 3 or 4 hours. Ive accidentally tested this stuff at over 170c and it stays firm. My daughter turned the knob up on the oven to about 170-175c while i was annealing some stuff and to my surprise it didnt melt whatsoever, not even the surface texture, It just made it even stiffer. You dont need an enclosure or anything to print it. You'll need an all metal hotend though because it prints best at 260c and even nice Capricorn ptfe tubes arent going to be 100% safe at those temps. Dont be afraid to grab a cheap chinese clone of a more expensive hot end. Rightnow at least, half of the hotend clones out there are better than the originals anyways. Also, its not 100% necessary, but if you don't have a direct drive setup I highly reccomend printing one because it makes everything print more precisely. Also it's free, and it's absolutely mandatory if you ever want to print flexible filaments later down the line. Id be happy to share print settings if you ever need them. I print a whole lot of overture nylon parts. I barely use PLA or PETG since discovering overture nylon. Its cheap enough to just use it for everything. I got tired of wasting time and money on my PLA+ and PETG parts breaking on me. I mostly make carabiners, high powered rc car parts so impact and tensile strength are my main concern and thats where this filament really shines. Idk how it does it, but this stuff will actually outperform polycarbonate in both of those catagories.
hi sir. Need your suggestion how to remove the support pieces from nylon because I tried I can't. Need your inputs
what set up do you have for drying out the nylon
What did you say you had your retraction set at?
great, thanks for sharing 👍
Any recommendations on how to dry nylon, tried printing brand new roll at 250C and its popping and bubbling out ruining prints. Oddly at 230C it prints clean though de-laminates every layer
that start gcode looks sweet. let me get that:)
Good thing now you can buy Sprite Extruder Pro upgrade kit, and turn an old Ender 3 into Ender 3 1S Pro. Well, without bells and whistles, but printing capability will be the same.
so ive been trying to print sSun Nylon-CF on my ender 5 plus w/ capricorn + micro swiss and olsson ruby nozzle 0.6mm on glass with hairspray - no fan....its been absolute nightmare,....i am still trying to figure out what the issue is....i get under extrusion, missing parts in layer etc etc...my bed is levelled, nozzle at right distance from bed (via paper test)....tried 250/80 260/85 268/85 and no luck still. I run the filament out of a enclosure with moisture absorption packs....i even went and bought a 2nd roll of filament and still having issues as the flow of filament is just inconsistet,,,,i will keep trying hopefully i can get it right
By chance do you know if the nylon is food safe?
Or print Nylon easily on a cold bed with Zillagrip glue. Square model wouldn’t have worked with regular glue stick that’s why the examples were round.
Great video, I am VERY new to this, do you mind posting all your mods you made to be able to print nylon? I want to make sure I am making the correct mods. Thanks in advance!
You can do it on the stock ender 3. I do it in a room I can keep closed and at 90°F.
Youll need at least a glass bed and an all metal hot end
Pls suggest how to remove the support pieces from nylon.
All nylon printing I've tried on the ender 3 (upgraded with a full metal hotend) failed so far. Prints just fine, but the layers don't stick together. It all crumbles into individual sheets of layers.
I guess I really need a hot enclosure to keep the prints hot and toasty while printing.
Did you use a different thermister or thermocouple?
No same one that it came with
Geckotek- great for adhesion
YOu told that the part cooling needs to be off and I see it working in the video :D
Haha your not wrong. I changed it after the fact. That shot was during my testing.
ModBot hahah :)
@@zeDoSauRus Ahahahahahahahaha!
I have no problem with adhesion, but the print falls apart when layering. I guess I'll pump up the heat a bit. I'll probably enclose it.
Make fan only 10 percent and increase both bed and extrusion temp
What speed were you printing?
How to print nylon on an ender 3 that is mod super crazy nice :D
Does anyone know if you can anneal nylon prints to make them stronger?
What type or grade of nylon did you print?
so when you say nylon
is that the nylon you buy in hardware stores
the one that is for tieng
Would an enclosure help with printing nylon? Is it necessary?
Ive read you should enclose it with plastic sheeting to maintain a higher temperature
Would you say a direct drive is necessary?
is it toxic without extra fans? ...looks like great material
I throw a very large silk scarf over my whole printer works like like a charm.
You said in order to print with nylon you need an all metal hotend. Why?
print speed and retraction setting?
Are you using the stock temp sensor and heating cartridge?
Yes those are both stock
what about nylon and moving (sliding) parts ? do you have any idea if it works better than pla abs or petg? for streight between layers petg is quite good, do you think nylon can reach similar?
have you tried this out yet?
PCTG is renown for its layer strength. Look into that maybe.
Thanks a lot for the great video! What is this blue stick?
glue Elmers I think
Do you not have issues with the PTFE tube melting? PTFE melts at about 250C
did you watch the video? its a direct drive extruder with all metal hot end... he even said if you use the stock hot end he wouldnt go more than 250
do some tests on tritan
do i need a hardened steel nozzle to print standard nylon? i know its required for the carbon fiber ones not sure about nylon
You don't necessarily need a steel nozzle, but it will last longer. I know the overture nylon i use wears out my brass somewhat quickly, but not nearly like carbon fiber does. Overture nylon is a nylon 6 and nylon 6.6 copolymer though, so it's stiffer than normal nylon and probably wears nozzles a bit faster than other nylon would. Overture nylon isnt a typical nylon. It's essentially the same as polymaker nylon copa, just cheaper. I love it for rc car parts. Its actually pretty stiff once its been annealed but it still retains its crazy strong tensile and impact strength. Prints like a dream at 260c on the hot end with a 45c glassbed and some hairspray. The downsides are that it shrinks a very very small amount when annealed, its not the best at unsupported overhangs, and it strings a little, but combing and retraction settings can help minimize that. I can still print a bed stuffed full of parts without worrying about the surfaces. A heat gun gets rid of the tiny strings pretty easily.
Must I use PVP glue or PVA glue? It is being a fhight to print with Nylon. 🤦
Anyone ever make a dehydrator that's also a spool holder, so people can dehydrate their nylon while printing? (So a long print won't have the nylon soaking up moisture and ruining the print). I think a simple heater might work just fine as long as it heats and cools periodically and the filament hasn't already soaked up a lot of moisture before.
Highly doubt you’ll get back to me but I’m having a lot of issues with adhesion the layers fall apart when pressure is applied if you got any ideas please help me
I’m using CF nylon and it sticks to the bed fine it’s just the print itself
go to EXACTLY 2:21 and put on 0.25 playback speed
What nylon was this?
So basically, printing nylon is like printing ABS except even worse.
except nylon actually has layer adhesion, wheras abs can be torn to ribbons easily. atleast in my experience
@@umbratherios5614 Zero cooling at all times. Minute drafts constitute cooling, heatbreak cooling fan can produce enough draft to overcool the print. Moving table is also liable to produce drafts by moving print through still air.
@@umbratherios5614 If you can pull apart your ABS prints something is very wrong. I print ABS 90% of the time because it's so cheap yet so strong. Even when purposely breaking prints, they never break along the layer lines.
Does it really need all metal hot end for nylon or the stock hot end will suffice?
You really need a metal hot end. Nylon prints at the same temp the plastic the stock hot end is made from.
@@Madscrills tq very much
the micro swiss hotend works with ender 5 plus?
I'd like to know that too as I'm considering getting a 5. And will likely work a lot with nylon (unless anyone has a suggestion for a filament that can withstand the higher temps you'd find in a car's cabin in summer :) thanks
@@ArchetypalCat sorry man, finally i bouggt the Prusa Mk3S. But what i heard you configurate all stuff that yoy put in your machine ina kind of software or firmware called marlin. Maybe you can start investigating there 🙃🙃🙃
@@andreicharpentierquesada4530 thanks for the prompt reply, Andrei ... Hey no problem. Prusa is known to be pretty good. I've read about what Merlin does but I certainly will check into it more. If you don't mind another reply: what were the reasons you choose the Prusa over the ender-5 ? (The 5's are on sale now so it's pretty tempting, but if the Prusa is that much better then...)
Is there a material that once 3d printed can be bent and hold its shape?
Try PLA, submerge it in boiling water, take it out and mold it to how you'd like
was the roll in a dry box while printing?
It was not I had it printing in the open. Prints where pretty shirt but for long term I definitely would have needed to
What brand of nylon were you printing with?
I will have to look. I have had this for quite a while waiting to print with it. I believe the company is from the uk will have to do some more digging.
This is the stuff that I used: www.filaments.directory/en/filaments/filament-pm/nylon/pajet-natur
@@ModBotArmy Link doesn't work pal:(
Dave T yes it does
The ender 3 Pro has an all metal end doesn't it?
Not from factory, it has the normal PTFE tube running all the way to the nozzle
Can we have your printer profile?
How do you clean up the glass after?
I find the best way is with hot water in a sink, the glue stick disolves and just washes off. I do use a ( hand ) nail brush to help it on its way, then dry with kitchen paper. Once dry your good to print again.
can u print nylon on the magnetic bed of the ender 3?
Definitely no
Well done, mate! But I just don't know how you made Nylon stick to the bed at such a high temperature. My parts stay attached to the glue only when the surface is completely unheated. Which causes the prints to warp like crazy. To be honest, printing Nylon was the biggest hell in 3D printing I ever experienced so far. I guess things like fluorinated polymers will take its place when I try them.
He said his first layer was extremely close. Maybe try that.
@@ChefofWar33, most likely he has an alloy, not pure PA. Like Taulman Nylon and stuff. I got mine working by printing on a sheet of office paper superglued to the glass bed. Not too convenient, but it works. So, all good now:):)
@@ChefofWar33, also, no, it does't matter how close the nozzle is. I tried glue, hairspray, pure glass, very close and far away. If it is pure Nylon, you will not get it printing on glass. You have to smash it into the fibrous structure of paper at like 5-10 mm/s and keep the bed at max temperature to assure good layer adhesion. Also, the tape peels away at >100 C, so only superglue works. It's all bloody extreme, but if you want your print to survive in chloroform, there is no other option unfortunately. Have you tried doing Nylon yourself? What was your experience?
@Aleksei Marianov No. I just bought my 3d printer. Hasn't came in yet. Just doing research atm.
@@ChefofWar33, congrats! Welcome to the community! Hope you'll enjoy it!:):)
your part cooling fan looks like it's running while printing the gear
U didn't tell us alot...
I'd love to know what speeds u ran
Speeds at 0:42
Aren't you worried about Volatile organic compounds from the Vinyl? You said you're printing this in your living room? Those VOCs are said to be extremely harmful.
Says: "turned part cooling fan off completely". Shows: part cooling fan running 3:00
Thanks for the tips!!! Im new to the printing world and in the market for a good 3d printer ! Can anyone steer me in the right direction please?????
ender3
instead of making a mess with a glue stick cover the bed with masking tape. filament sticks to masking tape like crazy
Pls suggest how to remove the support pieces from nylon.
265 with a stock ender? Pretty sure it stops at 260
does the NYlon also have toxic fumes when it prints / ?
amir ibrahim no
I didn't catch the name of your 3dprinter
This was the creality ender 3
@@ModBotArmy wow,I'm an idiot,it's in the name of the video,I just noticed that.lol thanks for your patience, great video too
You must have had a fresh roll of filament..? Nylon is a disaster for absorbing water as you probably know. By right, it should be dried for almost 1 full week at a low temperature, and can then fully absorb the water again within the next 48 hours. I don't know how anyone has any success with it?... Nice job anyway! You obviously have it dialled in 👌👍
THE BED IS NOT EVEN
1:37 I know thats painful!
I can't even 😥
I'm glad someone mentioned this. Came here looking. 😂
3:00: "I turned off air cooling fan completely" above video showing dat fan actually spinning and cooling. Hilarious.
I think he is talking about the fan to the right.... don't know if that's the layer fan but I think so. It's off later in the video