Is the Creality Ender 3 V3 KE Any Good?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ม.ค. 2024
- Oh boy, I had no idea that it would end up leading me into the abyss.
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I started with an Anet A8, which wasn't good, it 'worked' but not well, the Ender 3 V2 came along and I bought it, and I was really happy with it, it was a great machine for tinkering with and learning how a printer works, since then lots of new fast printers have come out and they blow the old generation of printers out of the water. Those new printers usually run a Core XY setup or a Delta, so how could a simple X Y Z cartesian setup possibly compete? Well I'm not convinced that it can, but the price is right so I wanted to try it out to see how well it performed and if there were any issues.
Some of the new printers are pretty expensive, so if the printer performs well, and the price is half or less than a Core XY, it might make sense to go that route it if does the job.
In this video we take everything apart, have a look inside, and go just about as far as we can to try and understand what's going on with this printer, how it works, as well as the good points, the bad points and some things I want to see in future versions as well.
This is a long video, because there was a bit of a struggle and I wanted to show it, hopefully you enjoy and found the difficulty I had entertaining.
Another way to support this channel indirectly is through my affiliate links (where I receive a small commission). It helps me to continue to provide high-quality content videos. Thank you for your support!
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Your content getting better time to time. I like your problem investigation style videos!
Thank you so much! For this one... I went down the rabbit hole, I didn't want to give up on this problem, but this is something I needed help with, it isn't a problem that I've had before and I have to wonder if this is some combination of problems. My idea going into the video was to show more 'under-the-hood' and that way people can see for themselves what is going on, how it works, whether it is quality or not etc. There were lots of good points, and a couple of not so good ones, for the price, it's an okay, deal. I have to wonder whether the competition's printers are a better deal for quality high speed bed-slingers.
My KE arrives in a few days. Thanks so much for the tips and things to look out for! I'll be using it for reference once it arrives and I can start testing.
It certainly has some potential, and there is always the potential that I have something that isn't quite right, I'll do some more testing on the extruder to see if I can narrow it down. I see that there is a model for replacing the linear bearings with linear rails already, so this is already a problem someone has corrected. Still printing PLA seemed really good and at nearly the max speed as well. PETG still baffles me. Let me know how it goes, I'm curious if you have anything similar to what I saw.
Fantastic in depth review! Great work. One of the best reviews on this machine.
Thanks so much! It took a bit longer than I was expecting, I didn't think I'd be taking everything apart and trying to fix it... I just couldn't leave it without at least trying. The printer has a lot of nice features, the linear bearing/rod issue is fixable, I'm not too worried about that one, maybe Iges Drylin bushings would work well there instead. The extruder/other problem, I'm still a bit disappointed that I wasn't able to get to the bottom of that. I have a K1 Max as well and I think I will do something similar, I notice some good features above what the K1 has, but I also have a few things that, let's say could have been better. Still a great, and big machine, lots of potential for sure. I appreciate you taking the time!
@@NeedItMakeIt I noticed the linear bearings in the video had too much play, it sucks that the Quality control is so poor that you as the consumer must figure out all of this. There is also the software aspect where they have cut corners, for example if you get the accelerometer and do input shaping it only does X axis and use the same value for y... Also there are some strange design decisions on the K1 with the pulley system and filament path that willkeep users from getting fantastic prints.
I will buy the CR-10 SE mainly because it's an E3V3KE with a beefier motion system and more features. You should look into that, it has a 24mm linear rail for the Y axis instead of rods, and dual Z motors.
Again, it's awesome that you took the time troubleshooting the printer and making the video so detailed. Big kudos to you, this will help a lot of KE buyers.
Been looking for my first printer for a few weeks. Pulled the trigger on a KE today. Looking forward to trying it out. Thanks for a great video.
How is it treating you so far?
@GenX3Dprints I have nothing to compare it to, but it's awesome! Fast and reliable. Only had a couple of failed prints due to pushing my luck on small or fine prints without additional bed adhesion. So far, so good.
Nice review, I like that you take things apart when talking about them.
With regards to the linear rods in front, I saw on another channel they showed the screws do not touch the rods and therefore does not hold them in place. Their solution was to use grub screws to screw it down.
The same problem with the SE printer, one of many problems it has.
That could certainly be a contributing factor. I have a video set to release this Saturday for the full explanation. It wasn't the obvious unfortunately. I'll see if I can move those rails when the screws are tight, I was wondering about why the screws seem to fit tight to the surface of the plastic, they should be just slightly proud!
THANK YOU for doing flow ratio and pressure advance calibrations before judging print quality and telling us! So many reviewers either don't do it, or they just don't mention it, which somewhat invalidates everything they say about print quality (especially when using third party filaments and comparing print quality or print tolerances between different machines!).
And then you showed exactly why this matters once you got to the orange filament! Awesome :)
Awesome review, you went far beyond most reviews do. I no longer want/need a bed slinger since I had my P1S, but I'm subscribed to your channel and your content is awesome, so I watch it anyways :)
That's great, I'm glad you like it! I wasn't sure whether anyone would appreciate this approach of taking everything apart. I like the idea of showing everyone the 'guts' and they can see with their own eyes what's going on. The rails and the extruder are still lingering issues, and that bothers me a bit, I will probably have to do the follow up when I can figure those out with the help of the community. I really appreciate you spending your time to write a note, I'll keep on pushing to get better as well as more efficient at making helpful videos.
@@NeedItMakeIt please do follow up. I am not in the market for a budget bedslinger but I like these videos anyway because they're interesting and I want to know what I can recommend to friends, as well as keep tabs on brands and advancements over time. I have four P1S machines (two that were P1Ps originally) and love them. Before those I had various bedslingers so there's a bit of a nostalgia thing as well.
really good thorough review.
Great, I'm glad you enjoyed it, at one point I was getting a bit frustrated, I don't know if it came through in the video, I don't like to have someone left without a reason, but ces't la vie I suppose. Lots more to come, I will try to get back on-track with 2 videos/wk. This one ended up being a little longer than expected.
Thanks for the great video. I was on the verge of ordering one of these but you've more or less convinced me otherwise. I already have an older flakey bed slinger which, despite producing very acceptable prints, requires way too much maintenance and hand holding. I was hoping to get away from this while increasing the print speed a bit but I guess it's just not happening with the KE and probably not in this price range.
Excellent review!
Awesome, I'm glad you thought so, thanks so much as well for taking time to leave a comment, it makes a big difference.
Thanks for the review. The linear rod and bearing tolerance issue is common with cheap printers. My Sovol SV06 and sv06 plus both have that issue and both use linear rods. I bought quite a few sets of bearings and out of 16 bearings I bought only a few had tight tolerance. I did find repacking the bearings helped a lot. They don't seem to pack them at all from the factory. I also have a k1 and that thing prints better but I have my bed stingers printing very well now with some mods. They are also running klipper now.
Thank you for checking it out! Iit definitely has some potential, the bearings/rods is a bit of a concern, with all of this speed and tolerances like that, people aren't going to be able to get the results they're looking for, maybe for someone new this will be okay for a while. I think very small linear rails would have worked a lot better, I assume the price would have been a problem. From what I can tell, this printer should be cheaper to manufacture compared to the original with the 1 pc molded base. Still I suppose we get what we pay for, the KE is less than 1/2 the price of the K1. I still prefer the Core XY. Because I have all of these more expensive printers, I needed to keep reminding myself that the results will not be the same, it's not an apples-apples. Regardless, the issue with the extruder/hot end with PETG was a bit concerning, and I plan on swapping out the extruder to see if that makes a difference, hopefully we can figure out the missing link on that.
They sell a vibration damper module that installs under the bed where that port was which greatly improves the wobble artifacts.
Great review, like the way you stripped it fully down and demonstrated the parts in detail.
I was going to get the ke but i got the bambu lab a1 instead and very happy that i did.
I have the v3 se and the ke looks like it's a good upgrade over it but not worth upgrading to it.
If i was getting a new creality bed slinger i would get the cr10se because it has much better upgrades over both the v3se and v3ke.
I like bed slingers they are much easier to work on than core xy
Thanks, it's quite a bit of work, but I really enjoy taking things apart, but it became a bit frustrating to not be able to solve all of the problems. Still it has potential, but it's not perfect out of the box.
You made a good call on the A1, that's a nice printer that just works. Nice features, looks good, the nozzle swap feature is really cool as well, do you use that much? I checked out the CR10 and it does seem to have a few better features, at that price point the A1 is a better option, larger bed, upgrade to multi-color, it looks a bit nicer IMO. The bed slingers for sure are so much easier to work on, so open, lots of light, you can see it running and troubleshoot easier.
@@NeedItMakeIt i use it pretty muct everyday,i love it, that and my k1.
I have 0.2 and a 0.8 nozzle to try out on the a1
Great video (again)!👌
Thank you! Oh boy did I get distracted making this video though, going in, I was going to take it apart, and then do some tests, I wasn't expecting to run into these two issues at all. I hope some people found it helpful, and maybe if we can have some people confirm the extruder issues as well, there can be enough info to come up with the reason for why is happening.
I got the Ender 3 v3 ke, and really so far, it’s been amazing. IMO it’s a really great printer.
That's good news. Are you seeing any of the same issues as I had? It seems as though printing PLA is not a problem, but PETG is, very strange. I am working on trying to fit a different extruder to prove/disprove that theory. I think the printer has potential, it's nice to be able to work on a printer that's open again, so much easier!
@@NeedItMakeIt I don’t have a problem so far.
I got the KE a week ago and it's great, but I'm only doing PLA. It's my first 3d printer so I don't feel ready to branch out into other filaments just yet. I love how easy it was to put together and how I haven't had to tweak any settings or anything yet and things are just working well out of the box. The fear of tinkering and calibration is what kept me out of 3D printing all this time.
It is so much better than my old Ender as far as the software, there is one lingering issue left to make it a really good printer for any material. I have a video set to release tomorrow morning. It wasn't too clear where the problem was coming from, but it is very clear now. Maybe you can check your printer for the problem if you have a chance to check it out.
@@NeedItMakeIt I'll be on the lookout for that video man. Thanks
You should buy and test the optional vibration sensor for input shaping. It’s about $19 and can be easily plugged into the display on the back side.
I heard that you need to check the X and Y axis' separately, I will do this if you want to see the comparison in a stand-alone video. Of course I need to solve this extruder issue.
@@NeedItMakeIt I would definitely also like to see this
@@NeedItMakeIt yes, first screw it to the print head with a printed part and than glue it to the base plate. After that you can remove it and store it anywhere for the future.
@@NeedItMakeItfor it to do input shaping for x and y separately you need to root the printer, install fluidd and change some parameters in the config.cfg file. Creality uses the x value for both axis.
I own KE for a month now and no issues with PLA+ at 300mm speed - all looks very good for my needs. Upgraded from Ender 3 v1 and in compare it is like get from old bicycle to Ferrari. Very good printer so far. I would recommned it specially for beginners in 3d printing.
Definitely has the features that the SE is missing, though like you mentioned, I do wish they had included the accelerometer as part of the printer..oh well, at least you can add that and the camera on
Good review.
We can see at 21:26, the filament "glitch".
I think petg is auto lubricant and it is difficult for the extruder to guide it correctly.
PETG definitely likes to slip more on the extruder gears when it is not melting fast enough, as opposed to PLA which likes to strip entirely. Difficult to determine anything with his demo though since the gear axles aren't guided by the front part of the case and it's not going through a hotend.
@@802Garage The strange thing is that this isn't a problem for the K1 extruder, and it has the same hotend setup. The gears are hobbed, and it must do a better job of grabbing it. I wonder if there is some way to create a see-thru version and we can tell what's happening inside better. Like the engine heads you'll see made of acrylic... that don't last, but at least you can see the action. I could be looking in the wrong place, I need to do some kind of comparison to eliminate all of the variables, maybe an entire extruder swap is required. My guy tells me that the extruder is the problem, but with high-speed, pressure advance and input shaping, we have a few more variables. Maybe I turn as much off as possible and see what it looks like?
I was seeing the lever move more than I expected as well. This is a 60W heater, it shouldn't have any trouble keeping up at these speeds. I agree about the lubricant part, it does tend to be pretty slippery. I tested filaments inside a bowden tube a while back (off-video) and PLA had a lot more friction compared to the PETG, and that was inside of a Teflon Capricorn tube as well.
@@NeedItMakeIt Yeah, from all of my flow testing, if you see that lever moving, you are getting inconsistent extrusion. If the lever moves enough for the extruder to actually slip and you hear a clicking noise, obviously the gears are slipping on the filament. Anytime the lever is moving though you are still getting a little bit of slip. The other issue I can think of that could be causing this is if there is a small gap between the nozzle and the heatbreak, but not enough for the filament to ooze out and create a blob or anything. The filament could be creating a small Ridge which sticks until it gets hot enough for the filament to push past it. I doubt that is it, but it is something that could happen with petg and not pla. I wouldn't think it would be that possible with the volcano style nozzle, but if the heat brake doesn't go far enough into the heater block, I could see it potentially happening. I'll reply more later, but the clear front case is a really cool idea! You could use transparent filament to make that, you'll just have to dial in your settings to get the best transparency. There is a good guide out there and C&C kitchen did a video on it.
@@NeedItMakeIt The main reason I don't think it is an inherent extruder flaw is it not showing up with PLA. I mean it could be an extruder issue, like just straight up gear slip, but that still means there is a limit to feed rate through the hotend. Like I said I could reach 10-15mm³/s with PETG on my Sprite SE with an inferior hotend. What speeds and layer height were you running? I got pretty much no inconsistency at something like 6mm³/s on outer walls and everything else was faster and looked good too. You're getting inconsistencies on individual lines it looks like. That would be really strange for an extruder unless PETG is just slipping constantly. How much did you have the tension adjusted? I run mine only 1/2-1 turn in on the screw. I'd maybe run some flow rate tests with your PETG just to see where it's falling off.
Excelent review, I have been loking for new faster printer and as Own to Creality already KE was in my mind. The biggest issue in Creality printers seems to be the bed and it´s stability. As I saw new bed with linear bearings, I was thinking finaly this is solved. Yes, but no! Bad quality of linear bearing or rails and we are back in basic issues. Now people need to as Creality before buing the printer if this is solved. This is how we can forse Creality to improve the product. Thank you, for sharing this. I will hold my order, until I get confirmation this issue is fixed!
I just did a review of the QIDI Q1 Pro, and it's a very fast and capable printer but the price is also quite good. I also have an Ender 3 V3 (Metal Frame) which I'm testing and I'll have a review video on that one in about a week. Hint: many of the problems with the other bed-slinger printers have been addressed.
I've done quite a bit of flow testing on my Ender 3 Pro and the Sprite SE extruder is a big upgrade over stock with the Bowden. With just a nozzle and heatbreak upgrade, I was able to hit up to 30mm³/s with minimal under extrusion with a fairly low temp PLA. 16-24mm³/s will be a more common reasonable limit. With the KE hotend and long nozzle, wouldn't be surprised if 30mm³/s was possible for most PLA and probably 15-20mm³/s with PETG even. Basically, under extrusion shouldn't be a big issue. It did look like you got a little but on the base of your microphone holder. Could just be due to slicer settings or something though. Happens to me a lot on perfectly rounded areas too.
After leaving this comment, I see all your issues with PETG and it could be flow limit related. I sort of doubt it because I would think at least 12mm³/s would be easy for that hotend and extruder combo. I don't have any inconsistency issues like you are having with PETG on my Sprite SE extruder, which is exactly what is on the KE, and with what should be an inferior hotend setup. When you are pushing the limits of flow, you'll see the thumb lever on the extruder moving back and forth. That will be when the filament is bunching up against the nozzle and pushing back on the gears. See if that is happening with your inconsistent prints. You'll note on smooth prints the thumb lever pretty much shouldn't move at all. If it is inconsistent extrusion, you're probably having issues with either not enough temperature staying at the top of the hotend, or you're having heat creep into the heatbreak which is heating the filament too much, but it then cools causing binding. If lowering speeds and/or raising temps doesn't get rid of the issue, I'm not really sure what it could be. I would wonder if reducing retraction or turning it off would make a difference, as retraction can cause too much warmed filament to enter the heatbreak and cool. I've only had that issue with carbon fiber PLA really though. At any rate, my best bet is simply that the PETG needs a lot more heat and it is essentially sapping heat from the hotend causing it to come out in a pulsating manner, giving you those inconsistent lines. I would doubt it is an inherent flaw with the extruder since you are not seeing it with PLA. Definitely makes me think it is heat related.
I think you are on track with the extruder drive. Creality has had issues with the extruder on the k1 series in the past. One thing to look at withnthe filmament is the consistency with filament diameter and possibly correlate to this issue.
i have the ke and i went threw everything you did in this video. it was frustrating. i did find that every filament so far runs the greatest at 240mm. the hyper i can run full tilt but make sure you have a good solid platform the printer is on when doing so.
I've had my Ender 3 S1 Pro for 9 months now. It also has the Sprite extruder. I had similar if even worse problems with inconsistent extrusion with every filament after a month or two of using the machine. After quite a bit of hair pulling and web searching I was able to figure out that the filament tension adjustment spring is too loose and can drift over time, and that it turns out that it is not very difficult to make the mistake of overturning the screw used to adjust the tension. The adjustment is very "on/off", there really isn't very much feedback to be felt in the filament locking lever when changing it, it's either super tight or loose. When you overturn it, it can pop out of the threads of the square nut that it goes through, and after that you have to open the extruder and put it back in manually. It doesn't help that the screw has backward threads.
In my case it had come off due to me overturning it, and I didn't know, and I had almost stripped all of the very short thread clean from the square nut by trying to spin the screw when it had jumped out of position. It took some fiddling and quite a few carefully chosen swear words, but I was able to get it back on and also modify the whole thing with some spacers, which make the adjustment spring tighter to begin with and hence the adjustment will not start drifting again and the risk of unscrewing it is a lot smaller. I hope...
Thanks for that info, I should have a follow up video ready for this weekend, I believe I've figured out the problem, though I need to test and prove it. I did an entire extruder swap and used my K1 extruder, however the problem did not go away for me. I'll be careful with the original extruder's tension though, thanks for that. I would have kept the K1 extruder on, except the fan cover doesn't fit over it, which is a bit of a bummer, I like the K1 with the larger gears and sturdy build quality (newer versions).
Have you had any belt tension with yours? I’ve been running a KE pretty much since they came out, and I just can’t seem to be able to get the belts tight enough without resorting to making custom belts
When you did the test on the extruder head you showed the indentations on the PETG filament, you did not show the indentations on the PLA. The depth of the indentations would show the pressure on the filament, one may be harder than the other. The result may show that you may need to increase or decrease the pressure on the extruder.
it sucks that it's not as modifiable as the previous ones but the upgrades for sure are great, I am quite surprised they managed to change so much stuff while keeping the price almost the same
Hello, I have bought my KE a 1 week ago, still going through the learning curve... But could you tell me plase how to or where to download all the tests for printing ? [temp, pa etc.] Because my printer couldnt for some reason process the G Code from pressure advance and threw me 2111 code...
Do I need to install some firmware to my printer too ?
Using Ultimaker Cura
Thanks, love your videos
Thanks for the in-dept look of the printer. I do not own a 3D printer. Have been lookin at many vidoes. I plan to use it for upgrading my RC cars. Would you consider this a good starting point for a novice user? Thanks in advance.
These printers tend to be ones you buy and try to upgrade yourself. I don't really recommend any bed-slinger printers anymore, the are better printers which are really just plug-n-play. At the moment, the most affordable printer with the best results and highest precision is the QIDI Q1Pro, I have a review video on it as well, it's been my favorite printer with no messing around. The Bambu X1C is also very good, but quite expensive. For RC pars if you're not printing Chassis, you can also consider the Bambu A1 Mini, it is supposed to be very good, it's a bed slinger, but apparently the results are very good and there are some upgrade options for it also.
There are so many new printers coming out that it's hard to keep up with them, just about any CoreXY would be good, and soon you'll be able to find some good used ones as people start to upgrade.
I hope that helps a bit.
Hello There,
im watching your channel for the first time with this vid.
Could it be that the issues with filament feeding are related to the gears? Perhaps the centers of the steel gears are not precisely aligned with the centers of the plastic gears, causing them to run unevenly. As a result, the filament is fed irregularly. The shifted centers could explain the irregular movements.
While it could be a contributing factor, I doubt that is the issue because first of all it would have to be extremely off to create that much inconsistency and second we would see it in the PLA as well.
Glad to have you, thanks for checking it out.
These gears are a bit strange to me, it isn't something you'd normally see on a high-speed printer these days. I have seem some reviews of straight cut vs hobbed and the straight cut has more potential force that can be applied before slippage, but at the expense of deforming the filament. It is possible that it is related to the gears, I think there is some connection, but I can't quite put my finger on it. With regards to your point about the feeding, here are a few things that happened during the tests that may help to figure it out:
Printing PLA (Hyper) showed good and excellent results, that filament is quite precise, just like the Prusament is
Printing PETG at higher speeds seemed to produce better results when at higher speeds
The results for Galaxy Black PETG, and the other two were not at all the same
I think I need to eliminate some variables and see if it can be narrowed down a bit.
Thoughts on that?
Do the Cr-10SE ! Like your vids
Just watched your video, really great. I've had the KE for about a month now and I too, no matter what I do or what calibration I try, I cannot get good results with PETG. I've been using an Overture White with Orca Slicer...
Okay, that's perfect, thanks for confirming what I've been having trouble with. I didn't show it in the video, but I also tried Orca slicer to see if the results were any better... they were not. I thought that the slicer could be to blame as well.
I think we're left with the extruder itself, or the extruder/hot end. This hot end is proven to work well at high speed on the K1 series, and that same hot end is on my printer that I used in the video. I need to find a way to get the K1 extruder onto the KE printer and test it. If we can do that, we can eliminate, or confirm where it is coming from.
Could it be that the straight style of gears along with the volcano style nozzle don't like PETG?
I do think it is something to do with the combination of this nozzle and gears. However, this nozzle, I'm lead to believe, is the exact same type, size, etc as the K1 so by process of elimation you could probably rule the nozzle out and look at other parts of the extruder / gears.
I don't have a K1, otherwise I would have also tried swapping things out. Good luck!
Yes! I've also had the KE for a month as my first printer. I can get near perfect results on PLA every time with almost all default profiles/settings in Orca, but the second I try to use PETG the print quality rapidly declines. I thought I just needed to spend time calibrating it specific to that filament. It's nice to see someone else having issues with PETG on this printer. I can't get it to print anywhere close to as nicely as PLA
Im printing petg at 300mms whith ke... You need some specs?
You discussed the placement of the weighty filament spool on the top rail, but I noticed that you still print with it there. Does the weight of the spool help stabilise the top rail from induced movement and would it improve prints, if you placed the spool adjacent to the printer??
Acting as a counterbalance of sorts? It looks to me like it doesn't dampen vibrations, but instead ampifies them instead. The posts are not well enough supported which allows the gantry to move. That motion is related mainly to the Y axis motion of the bed, which is steel from stock. I don't think it'd be as much of a concern with a properly supported frame (Which I am working on). It is also possible that through resonance compensation, it could be addressed, however this printer does not have active compensation and vibrations are still quite noticeable on the Y axis.
The Bambu A1 is a good example of what you can do if you have a strong frame and active compensation. You can mount your entire AMS to the top rail!
Great review. Just got mine and noticed the bed wobble. Would it be possible to make a short video on how you fixed that? Cheers.
He covers it later in the video fairly in depth.
I wish it was a complete solution, bit I can certainly come up with something that solves the problem and doesn't cost much. My best suggestion at this point is that the rails need to be replaced with actual 8mm. 3D printing your own bushings with that type of tolerance is a task that I don't think I can recommend. You'd need a reamer and any pressure applied by the bearing block while pressing the bush in will cause the ID to change slightly. I will put some more thought into a final 100% solution that lasts, maybe something will come to mind that I haven't thought of yet.
@@802Garage I wish it were a perfect solution, adding the bits of shims was pretty sad, even though it seemed to help a little. At first, I applied pressure to the block before tightening it, but it seemed to relax back after the first test or so. Could we use very small liner rails here instead? It wouldn't need to be much, or possibly a single wheel riding below that can run against one rail to keep a little pressure. That one seems a bit gimmicky.
@@NeedItMakeIt Awesome. Thank you.
@@NeedItMakeIt I wonder if delrin bushings might work or if they'd wear too quickly at the speeds the bed is moving.
Did you check if the weight of the spool has anything to do with? Try detaching it.
Having trouble with bed adhesion during mid print. Any tips?
P.S I don't want to hear that I need to use glue stick or brims/raft.
That wave pattern you are seeing in the prints (13:33) looks like nozzle pressure fluctuating. Coincidentally if you stare at the extruder when you are testing it (21:15) you can see a rhythm especially at the end of the latch since its exaggerating the issue, something isn't "round" or the gear that's feeding filament has a bore slightly too large for the shaft and a set screw is pushing on one side so its not centered. That is why the feed gear marks are uneven on the filament. When you print fast that will cause the molten filament pressure fluctuating at the nozzle thus causing a wave pattern in the print.
I'll be curious how you fix the bed. My thought is to just continue what you are doing and shim the rods outward so they push on one side of the bearing making everything tight (if that make sense god bless you). It's a bandaid solution tbh. You could elongate the mounting holes for the bearing carriers into the bed so you can slide them outwards to make a tight fit.
Honestly I feel this is poor engineering. They are trying to add features that enhance precision on the cheap, and end up worse then where you started. Those bearings and rods is an obvious example, they had a solution that wasn't very elegant but it got the job done. Now they have a elegant solution that can't get the job done.
He did have the extruder case open which makes the gears and shafts wobble when spinning because they aren't captured from both ends.
Nice to see creality coming out with new old stuff...
I still run an Ender3 pro. Looking to change out my e stepper motor, from a 4240 to a 4223, but not sure if it will work because the the difference in torque 4240 has 0.4nm, 4223 1.3ncm..
What is your opinion
how did you fix the over extruding? havent found any info on the internet
What was the black parts you printed the clipped around the lead screws?
Thank you for your video, Can you please do a comparison between Ender 3 V3 KE and S1 Plus... I want to purchase my first 3D printer and I'm so confused... I like the 30x30x30 bed of the Plus version.
I've had a look at the PLUS and there are some good features, the cast metal frame is very nice, however they are still using rods an linear bearings on an even larger bed, that's a little concerning to me. On the other hand, adding linear rails to a cast metal base would be super simple and I believe that the risers on front and back can be removed and linear rails can be added to go right through. If it were me, I'd get the Ender 3 V3 PLUS, no question. I'd also want an enclosure, big prints are prone to warpage and shrinkage, even more so in an open air environment. I'll reach out to Creality to see if they'll send me one to test out.
@@NeedItMakeIt Thank you for your answer, It really helps.
@@vahida6146 I'll have a video out within a few weeks showing the solution for the KE printer using linear rails, but in the best way possible, I think a lot of people are going to wait to do the upgrade and I've made it as simple as possible. I do want to get a Plus as well... Plus stands for + size printer? I'd like to see if it has the same problem, but I really like that they've used some of the same parts and methods from the K1 series of printers. I really enjoy my K1, it's one of my favorite printers. The Bambu X1 is great, but it's quite $$ in comparison. Being able to swap parts between printers is ideal and it's nice to have printers that all look like they belong to the same set too. As a side note, the new printers are also grey, which is so much nicer for keeping them looking clean, the black shows every single spec of dust and in my shop at least it's a bit annoying.
i know this video released 1 month ago but im wondering how to change the bed height is there anyway you could help me
Have same issues with PETG. I get more consistent results with a .8 nozzle vs .4 which doesn’t make a whole lot of sense to me
It is a bit of a strange problem.
I have 3 more videos coming for this printer, I believe that we're seeing a combination of problems, my gut tells me that we need to address the extruder, so I have a plan to overhaul the extruder on the printer, the nozzle and hot end should be good as-is, just the extruder portion with the funny gear setup.
The two rod retaining screws in my case don't even reach the rod.
I changed the screws 1mm longer and now my table is fixed, it doesn't move at all.
What are your prints like now then, I have one in my shopping basket but this video has worried me with the artifacts in the video
@@mrinfelix4574 I've never had any problems with the quality of the print, but the important thing is that almost none of the screws are properly tightened at the factory. The two shaft retaining screws were not even in contact with the shafts and therefore moved. I had to replace them immediately with longer ones, now they are properly secured with no movement at all.
I have this printer and I'm using the Creality Print slicer. I haven't moved to another slicer as Cura doesn't have Wifi and Orca Print's software errors when trying to locate the printer, or doesn't recognize the IP address. That aside I have a big problem with the KE printing at 100% fill. I have tried numerous settings and at each new layer the print gets rougher and rougher (Layers are like a rough sandpaper). The Nozzle 'grinds' it's way across the print and the grinding noise gets increasingly worse as the print get higher. I had a Creality Ender 3 V2 3D before this and this wasn't a problem at all. For test printing I am using a block 30mm x 30mm by 5mm high. Even at a fill speed of just 50mm/s it's as rough as guts. I've tried numerous infill patterns. I also tried 80% with infill pattern on 'Aligned Rectilinear' and the print was perfect. I have also seen others mention this problem on forums with no fix. I also wonder whether it's the printer or the slicer. Perhaps someone could try this with another slicer?
I haven't tried 100% infill on this machine yet, and it should be possible with any printer to get pretty good results with 100% once everything is dialed in. What I would ask is that you have a look at the angle of the nozzle/head in relation to the bed, mine is set to a slight angle, about 1 degree. I have to wonder whether this contributes to this issue because the nozzle will rub quite a bit more going on direction vs another. I can't say for certain that they are related, but it is something I've noticed that I have no explanation for and it might be worth adding a shim/spacer to pack it out so it is at the correct angle to try.
@@NeedItMakeIt Thanks. I'm starting to think after doing the 80% fill, that at 80% it looks 100%. Therefore I'm thinking that maybe the printer is extruding too much, so extruding at 100% it becomes crowded, and therefore lumpy. Just a thought.
Can you give more detail on the 'tried to align them a little bit better' portion of fixing the bed wobble at 5:30? I only see you demonstrating the problem and then demonstrating that the problem is gone.
I ended up making a follow up to this video to identify the exact issue. th-cam.com/video/B06lTrhjC5s/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared The issue is fixable if you want to ask Creality for replacement parts, or if you want a better solution, I'm working on one that will be far better than the original setup. I'm just waiting for parts to arrive before I can finish the video up.
oh awesome, thanks! the linear rail solution the other person made looks good too. do you think replacement bearings from creality would be different?
@@jackmaniacki I think unfortunately it's the rods, but if they can send you the new rods, it would help a lot. Yes there is another linear rail option, but it's still not perfect, they've used the original mounting position of a central placed linear rail carriage. It will not provide the stiffness needed IMHO when printing at the front and back. It's still better than the original no question.
@@NeedItMakeIt thanks a bunch for taking the time to reply to a total noob. I think the stock set up is going to be ok for my needs for the time being, but I'm going to reach out to creality and sub to your channel 🙏
@@jackmaniacki If you can get the replacement parts, I think it'll do fine, if you can measure the rods, they should be exactly 8mm, or even slightly oversized. My K1 rods measure at 8.05mm, which is perfect for a bit of pre-load. Unfortunately the KE was 7.95mm, close but not quite good enough it seems.
No worries, it's my pleasure!
Can you share more about those calibration prints and methods you're using? Or point me to the right way.
These prints are just something I designed from a previous video, they have a bit of everything on them so it's not too bad as a test. Which slicer do you use? There are proper calibration prints within most slicers if you right click you should get a menu to add them.
@@NeedItMakeItJust waiting on my KE to arrive and though I'd get a head start on catching up on some 3D printing tips.
Think I'll be using the Crealitys slicer or Cura.
Got my first printer almost 10 years ago but it's been a while since I've printed anything. These new seem light years ahead, almost ready out if the box that I doubt I'll have to do much, but it's nice to know what to look out for if theres problems.
I've spent my time with cheap prusa clones and wasn't always fun, but it was educational ;)
I wonder if adding the preload to the Y axis rails will cause premature motor failure.
I'm nearly finished the follow up video to this one, I've found the source of the problem.. I think I'm just running some tests right now. Adding some pre-load here should be fine, the linear bearings have very little friction, less even when we pre-load since they don't fit the rods. I'd think that 8mm exact rods would be the best solution here, but pre-loaded bearings for a slightly undersized rod would work well also. Unfortunately the design is very limiting, the bearing blocks are central and aren't tight enough, it causes a lot more movement as you make your way to the ends of the bed.
Have you used a slicer other than Creality Print with the KE? Creality seems to lock up a lot.
If you've rooted your KE I'd switch to Orca slicer I only use Orca now for my Bambu and all of my Creality Printers. If you need some help getting there, let me know, I can guide you a bit if you need it.
Creality Print is really slow and doesn't have some newer features that Prusa/Bambu/Orca have.
21:40 just a guess from someone who doesn't even do any 3D printing... could this be caused by non-uniform wire diameter? Hyper filament is advertised as having uniform wire diameter.
I've upgraded from a Ender3Pro (which is dialed in perfectly on all steps. so it's perfect except it's slow). I've had the KE about a week but I've been having print issues on all filiments. I know that the E-Step is too short but from what I can find there is no way to adjust that (yet). I got a multimeter that has a temp probe and discovered that the nozzle temp is anything from 10decC to 20degC too low between 200degC and 300degC, and again, that's not something that can be changed yet other than by upping the print temp in the slicer, the same with the bed, that has a undertemp of about 5degC. So don't rely on the temp shown on the screen or the PC, it is unlikely to be accurate.
Can you please link me to the shapes you used to print PETG flow rate test?
Apologies for taking so long to get back. Which slicer are you using? Each slicer should have some form of calibration/tuning features built-in, each is a little different from the other, but you can usually either right click and add through a menu, or at the top bar, you can see 'calibration' and then you can choose which one you need to perform from there.
Let me know if you need more info!
21:25 that looks wobbly af
I just bought a KE and am having print problems on the sides of my models. I have tried many print configurations. Is there another printer in the same price range you like better
The Bambu printers are the best bang-for-the-buck, they are a bit more expensive, but you also get a lot more features. If you can afford an A1, it's a good printer, just make sure if you jump to that one that you get a new version with the bed strain relief issue sorted out. They have some stellar engineering skills, however even they also have problems sometimes. I expect that they've been pushing so hard that they didn't test their product for a long enough time to find the issue.
Thanks for getting back to me.I replaced my Ender 3 V3 KE with another one. Same problems. The most annoying is the extruder stops extruding mid-way through the print. The nozzle gets stopped.up and I have to pull the filament out and re extrude. Is this a software problem or a design flaw? I used the PLA that came with the printer and I am using the normal print setting. Do you have any tips that will help me through this conundrum? I like the printer but I will send it back if I can't resolve this problem.
Your discord link do not work :(
I need to know how to print PLA wood. I can't find the settings.
You're printing on this printer and with which brand?
@@NeedItMakeIt Thanks for responding, yes, I use this printer and the material I use is Grilon 3 wood Pla With load of wood. I want to know if it is a nozzle (0.4) or configuration problem.
@@ipisca I'm not an expert at printing wood fiber filament, what I can see from the specs is that this filament has more wood fiber than the typical, and it doesn't say the size, but I'd think using a 0.6 nozzle would be a better choice. Can you describe the problem you're having and maybe from there we can determine the likely cause. For example, if the print fails part way through the print due to a nozzle clog.
This filament has a low melting temperature at 200C, with so much wood pulp in there, and wood being an insulator, I'd think that a bit hotter would be a good idea, at least 220 for a higher speed printer. Some PLA filaments do not print well at higher speeds and I think that this might be the case here.
2 options there for you, larger nozzle, and running at higher temps/slower print speeds.
@@NeedItMakeIt Thank you very much for responding, I will try those recommendations and I will tell you the result.
For an extra 100$ get the Bambu a1 so much better and bigger build plate
Agree. (and maybe much better support as well)
@@mRxmodule yep. And I own both printers. I’m not just talkin shit
can ke print nylon ?
In an enclosure I don't see why not. I'm still working though the extruder issues I've been having, that's next on the list to tackle.
Pretty sure they fixed the issue with the bed rails as the one I just got in has zero of what you're showing. No play at all. Side to side or up and down.
That's good, I was hoping that they had. It's hard to say what happened there, 5/16" and 8mm rods being switched? I have several more videos coming out for this printer, mainly related to upgrades and making the printer more easily upgradable.
imo this is crazy to do some tweaks out of box for product that cost over 250 bucks
They have a long history (5+ years) of this approach. Some people love it and some people not so much. They're some of the cheapest printers on the market so I can see wanting to do some upgrades to improve performance. In my case, there were issues with the printer, but I hope that those have been resolved with anything new.
I had a Ender 3 V1... You don't know how spoiled you are compared to that xD Happy with my Bambulab P1S now! Ender 3V1 was a great machine to learn all about 3D printers and get into the hobby on a budget though.
mine just broke
its clogged and i dont know how to fix it
This printer doesn't worth $280 , maybe $180, why would someone buy this over bambu A1 mini for same price or A1 for $150 more?
I have to agree, as-is with the issues, it isn't worth it, the competition's printer offers quite a bit more for the value. The only + for these kinds of printers is that they're more easily modifiable, and that's what a lot of people want. I like to mod my printers personally, but I try to restrain myself to keep the printer as close to stock as possible unless it's something major. The fit of the linear bearings onto the rods is a big issue IMO. That needs to be addressed from Creality immediately. The A1 mini is a bit small for just about anything I print, maybe it's okay for some people in the type of work they do, it's still a good printer no doubt. The A1 is a great printer also, and the issue with the cord should be fixed in the next releases. I have a follow up video coming out tomorrow to show the reason behind the poor print quality, it wasn't what I expected, but turned out to make a lot of sense.
So this is a tinkerer's printer? I just want a printer that works, not one that I have to work on. So this printer isn't for me?
I can't be certain, it seems there are quite a few people with this problem that I've shown here, but lots of people having good success. Creality has a new Ender 3 V3 Plus coming out, I'd go for that one. It has the setup like the K1 series, and I would think pricing is pretty reasonable.
I just checked and it was just released today, it's a nice looking printer too and has an injection molded frame so it should be quite stiff. The extruder should be the same as the K1, but it also has some added features in addition. I don't know where Bambu is with their A1 bed slinger, I'd think they'd have a very quick turnaround for them since the issue with the bed cable was discovered a few weeks ago. I think they'll be all over it and should be back on track in short order.
Looks cheap low quality pour fans etc
Thrown to together just for fast money older machines perform way better
I like the older machines as well, it might be possible to remove the guts from this one and retrofit, it'd be much easier to mod that way.
To answer the title of your video, its absolutely trash, my Ender 3 V3 KE broke down after a month of light use, then broke down 2 days after I fixed it and did a complete hotend replacement. The customer service also refused to help.
I can see the extruder not lasting, it's designed for lighter duty printing, I can see by the construction that it's not build to the same standards as the K1 extruder. I just made a follow up video, and have found the source of the problems I was speaking about in this video if you're curious. Can you request that Creality send you a replacement extruder? The hot end should be plenty capable, it's been running for months now on my K1 and works really well IMO.
I will give it a go, thanks :D
@@superchargewither2893 Let me know how it goes. In the video I just released today, I showed how it's possible to fit the K1 extruder onto this printer. I changed it back afterward since it didn't seem to fix my problem I was having. It's a nice compact extruder, maybe that's a better option. I still think that the sprite extruder isn't good enough for the faster printers. Hence the change on their next new printer. imgur.com/a/NgCAGJX
The answer is no. Do not buy this recycled garbage. Save yourself a ton of pain and just buy the Bambu A1.
Are we talking about the same Bambu A1 that has caused fires and now all of them are under safety recall?
@fyrfyter33 manufacturing errors happen; at least you know bambu labs will do something sbout their errors, compared to creality shitting on its customers with bad qc.
@@princeray4247 I have yet to see a Creality melt down and light someone’s house on fire. Bambu is definitely ahead in that way!
I nearly bought this today if it hasn't of been this video and your comments and others, thanks! :)
I've had dozens of machines and now have two of these heading my print farm. They're fantastic machines, only issue I had is that one of the screws for the motor mount was loose on the one. When I ordered mine I also convinced a mate of mine who is new to printing to pick it up, he loves it. Here we don't get the A1 for a good price but even if we did I prefer the ke because it doesn't start house fires.
Just because you have dual Z screws does not prevent Z droop...... The ONLY time this is mitigated is when those screws are physically tied together or, when (if you have dual Z stepper motors) dual Z alignment is enabled... My CR10 V3 came with dual Z stepper motors and was STILL experiencing Z axis droop on one side, tightened rollers or no, makes no difference.... I had to physically belt the two Z axis motors together to even remotely sort out this problem.... And, then you also must have an ABL probe to be able to use the Z alignment feature inside of Marlin.... Just wanted to clarify that.