3d Printing Carbon Fiber Nylon For Beginners (Ender 3)
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 พ.ค. 2024
- Love the channel? Consider supporting me on Patreon:
www.patreon.com/user?u=806627
In this video we take a look at what goes into 3d printing carbon fiber material. With the right hotend, proper adhesion, and slicer settings you can produce high-quality functional parts with this awesome material. Carbon Fiber Nylon is incredibly rigid with high tensile strength and it also looks awesome!
Find out more or purchase NylonX here:
www.matterhackers.com/store/c...
Video On MicroSwiss Direct Drive All Metal Hotend:
• Micro Swiss Dual Gear ...
(´∀｀)♡ As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases:
Buy now on Amazon: amzn.to/2jQAOgV
Subscribe To My 3d Printing Blog! :
Lets Get Social!
Facebook: / dopesoner930
Twitter: / dopesoner930
Instagram: / modbotarmy
Twitch: / dopesoner930
Time Stamps:
0:00 - Intro
2:56 - Hotend
4:10 - Upgrading Nozzle
5:56 - Heated Bed
6:54 - Drying Filament
8:12 - Slicer Settings
10:22 - Printing
One of the most underrated channels out there. This man knows his stuff and his content is gold. Keep it up 👍🏻
You are the man! Thank you very much for the kind words. Definitely made my day! 😬🙏
@@ModBotArmy where did you get the alu x-careiage?
That is part of Micro Swiss direct drive kit!
69 likes lol
@@ModBotArmy where’d you get that extruder set up? I can only find ones that locate in the original position?
ATF heavy breathing!
In the year 2046 only brittle pla is legal to buy by civilians because of the "ghost gun prevention act"
@@1810jeff don't give them ideas
For real chill
@@1810jeff inb4 Truck sized FGC9
It makes you wonder how many underground weapons “manufacturers” are churning out weapons in all of EU and other parts of the country.
I remember when I thought that 3D printing was never going to be affordable
And now its as cute as a kitten!
Edit: you corrected your comment now nobody will get the joke😞
@@chriss1914 "adorable"
Bought an ender 3 pro for $100.. I couldn’t believe how cheap it was lol
@@chriss1914 its still adorable
same bro. now here we are.
As a noob, this was great info -- my Ender 3 is still in a box (my first 3D printer) ... it's my winter project, just learning as much now as I can so thank you for spending your time to inform noobs like me. Appreciated!
a lot of CF nylons or other filled filaments will clog with a 0.4 nozzlee over time, several vendors recommend using at LEAST a 0.6mm nozzle in ordere to allow enough room for larger fibers to escape the nozzle. You'll find it takes about 3kg for 3dxtech CF nylon to completely clog a 0.4mm nozzle with basically pure carbon stuck in it.
This looks perfect for creating upgrade buckets for radio controlled RC construction equipment! Buckets created with PLA/ABS/PETG are just aesthetic.
Garolite sheets can be purchased at many of large plastic companies on-line if you want to make several (they come in like 4' x 4' sheets). It will have a spec sheets which will tell you temp it can handle. Industrial supply companies (like Grainger) stock smaller sheets (like 12" x 12" for $12, 24" x 24" for $36). Garolite has a few different specs G-10, G-11, CE which you can search on as well.
Really enjoyed your expertise on this matter. Thanks, subscribed and dropped a Like!
Super thanks for this video!!!!! I was over planning the worktable/heat box of my ender to print NylonX. I thought I really needed the heated volume, but I see how you can just get going with it. Yes, a heat box will probably help but know I know it is not expressly necessary. Thanks!!
Thanks for this video - just came back now to re-watch and see if there was anything I might have missed since a year ago.
I've been printing with nylonX a fair bit now and love it. The first big project was a carb hat for an odd sized (100mm) blow-thru [turbo] carburetor setup for a Mazda 12A rotary engine which worked beautifully. Now I'm working on an EFI conversion for the same vehicle and using this material as the main body to house a TBI setup. Looking forward to getting it all set up and working.
The abilities of this material are honestly impressive (especially when considering its solvent resistance). I've even used it for 3D printed venturis with great results. Thanks again for the informative video.
How well did that carb hat hold up in the engine bay? I can’t wait to start some projects with this filament and it seems to be a beauty to print with. Merci et au revoir mon ami!
@@swankscabinet1625 I ran it for four months or so over this past summer at 6-10psi and it held up great. It did flex a little though with just one bolt in the center holding it down - I used some 3mm o-ring cord to seal it and every once in a while it would blow out, so some further reinforcement up top would be worth looking into.
The TBI setup is actually nearly complete now (and thus taking the carb hat out of service), just a little more wiring and some small things to do before it (hopefully) fires up.
nice so the heat didn’t really bother it all too much. I will definitely be using this filament lol have a good day/night sir
Love your videos. Love that you get to the point even though your explaining in depth.
Best video i could find on the subject. NylonX seems like an interesting material for many different applications. I imagine worlds more useful then PLA.
I haven't even purchased a 3d printer yet, but I already thought "this guy knows his stuff", so I subscribed, I'll definitely need this awsome channel later.
Thanks mate you just taught me heaps and I didn't know much at all about printing Nylon and now I feel comfortable in giving it a crack. Thanks again. +1 sub
Very informative, no bulshit, just knowledge. You got my sub mate.
Thank you for the explanation! It's very clear!
Carbon also has an amazing surface finish...
Would like to see a strength comparison test
You nailed it....... it's now April and on average my humidity is around 50% inside and outside. I run 2 whole house dehumidifier. And Yes I need to print out a few tiny hand sockets for my 8 and 9mm sockets so I can screw on and take off my nozzels from the printer. Also Nylon is perfect when enforced as a door stopper spring shaped as a bigger D clipped over the door itself. It prevents the door handle from leaving a big hole in the door.
Want to thank you for the information on nylon x, been considering jumping into your world on 3D printing
FINALLY! Thank you for this!!
Great Video AND INFORMATION mate: I'm definately subscribed as I find your videos cool sources of REALLY necessary info for a newbie like me! Cheers, p.
Thanks for the info. I have been on the ropes with getting this material. I think i am going to get some in the next month or 2. I own a semi temp controlled chamber as well as a nice build plate from crealty
I'm starting to try and print with Polymaker's CF Nylon. This was really helpful!
Wow, nice sound bar mounts, good job!
@Ray Carrasco yea i agree, @Modbot keep up the good work it gives me hope for my ender 5.
I like your video, it teaches how to use this material in a not so Nylon-CF ready printer. The problem is the printed part, it creates the idea that you need such an expensive and difficult to print material for something light and not so demanding. The chosen part helps perpetuate the idea that functional parts need these materials. Let me explain a bit more in detail.
Before getting my own 3D printer I watched several videos using Nylon-CF for some functional applications. Since my 3D printer is mostly a complement to my hobby machine shop I thought that PLA was useful only for toys and that kind of stuff, really nothing appealing to me. In fact that is one reason I waited years to get a 3d printer, I did not want to spend money and the hassle of adding another expensive hobby to my list. So when the time came I got a Bambu Lab X1-Carbon. Among other things because I know I will be printing a lot of technical stuff where "relatively tight" tolerances are necessary and some engineering materials as well. I also talked to some people and they dispelled several concerns about PLA. PLA is great for a lot of things, basically most objects sitting indoors and away from heat and direct sunlight can be done in PLA. PLA is cheap, prints easy and can be used for so many functional things.
Honestly that bracket printed in PLA will do just fine, no need to use such an expensive material for something sitting in your family room that will hold at most ten pounds of weight. As a demonstration that is OK, I liked the video, but sometimes it creates the illusion that other materials are not that good for said "functional" parts. I would not print it in PLA if I planed to use it outside or for a heavy item or something that can create a safety hazard if the part fails (like a mirror which can be heavy and dangerous).
I was expecting a lot of printing with ABS, ASA, CA-CF, etc. So far I find myself using PLA most of the time. If a part needs more strength I just increase the infill and change the infill pattern to make prints stronger.
Thank You. That was very helpful. I want to print parts for the cars I build. Have a great day!
It would have been cool to see how durable the nylon prints are compared to PLA, PETG and ABS. :)
Very
@@lightningxx a lot
Hi, you asked about using nylonx . A friend of mine runs a museum for vintage slot machines. They got a used machine in and it was broken. Its front panel was actually a door that accessed the coin box and electronics. I\The door is very heavy (probably around 30 pounds). The machine is old and no parts could be found for it. The broken part was one of the hinges that holds the panel. Someone had made a very crude hinge that sort of worked, but I thought i could do better. I bought a reel of NYLONX and started to design a new part. It took a couple of tries, but I finally made a hinge that looked great and worked well. The hardest part about printing with the Nylon was to keep it form warping. I used a blck trash bag and it worked terrifically.
Just wanted to throw in my input. I print almost exclusively NylonX and your settings are pretty close honestly. The only thing I suggest is.... Printing on glass I just use AquaNet hairspray. I use this for all filament types on all of my printers. The raft is not necessary at least it never has been for me. The only time I have ever experienced warping was when I tried to print 100% infil. Printing at 15-30% infil has never given me any warping. I print everything at 3 layers outside, top, bottom. 70mm/s and 15mm/s starting. My retraction is slightly different but that depends on printer. Also never ever ever run your part cooling fan (on NylonX), this could also be part of your warping. I noticed your part cooling fan going. Overall excellent video and would have been very helpful if I saw this a few years ago when I first started printing this stuff.
What bed temperature do you run?
You must not print with PP then. I doubt that hairspray would stick.
Great video ! I find if you take a larger screw driver with a slighly rubbery/soft~ish handle and wack the part, it pops off the bed quite nicely when using glue stick. I have a 6 piece set of hex ball drivers that have slighly rubbery handles works nicely since I can hit a little harder than I normally would with a solid plastic handle without damaging my parts. If you're printing something in PETG this isn't an issue since that stuff is virtually indestructable, you can just swing at those with a baseball bat !(Please don't do this, you might damage your good baseball bat!)
🤪 😁 .... haha 😄 I like that baseball humour
What about the firmware on the ender? Does it need to be upgraded to allow for higher temps at the hotend?
Really appreciate your work. Thank you.
Excellent vidéo. Best regards from France 🇫🇷
I stuck the sticker half of a magnetic bed set to a glass bed to magnetize it to my preexisting magnetic bed sticker, these fridge magnet type sheets are directional one way they attract to each extremely well...too well for something inflexible such as glass, but if you rotate them 90 degrees they still attract but not as well absolutely perfect for the bed to be removable but stay steadfast and actually use all of the 235mm
How is the noise from your micro Swiss direct drive? I have printermods direct adapter with ezr and the vibration noise is terrible.
The audio quality has improved a ton over the years. Hearing the echo in this video made me realise that
You should mention printing with a .6 sized nozzle is a better choice for stronger prints with nylon x. Matterhackers explains this on their "successfully printing with nylon x" page. Other than that, great video
Will love to see you make a Lower Receiver for any Glock model pistol made out of this carbon fiber nylon .you do a much better job explaining then other channels
I've never used an enclosure on my Ender 3 Pro while printing Nylon and I've never had any problems. No warping, adhesion problems, etc. Nylon has become my favorite plastic to print, actually. I did try one time to use an enclosure and it kept my motherboard and motor drivers so hot that I got a layer shift.
I know it's been months but you should know that melting Nylon puts out toxic gases that need to be vented out actively. It's highly suggested, if not required, to have your printer in an enclosure for printing with Nylon.
PVP gluestick and Magigoo PA are also great options for build surface adhesives! 😉
Thanks for the recommendations ❤️
I also recommend Magigoo. However, it seems that warping is still an issue if you only apply a layer or 2. So I found that being generous with the amount applied really helps. It’s also really easy to clean.
Just printed Inland CF Nylon with a Hardened steel nozzle with stock hot end and it went fine.
Were you running an enclosure?
@@TheMr408 nope
I need an all metal hot end though. It worked for 2hr prints but failed 14hours into a 20hour print.
Did you upgraded the bed?
@@ebfsystem yea I got the glass bed
I got a pack of 3 hardened steel nozzles from Bangood for £5 and they are just as good as the MS ones, I can't tell the difference of print quality as there isn't one, I printed flow in the dark PLA and carbon fibre parts
I love the info.
I have spent many hours watching your videos.
I have a question.
Why no enclosure with nylon?
When replacing nozzles, keep a ceramic bowl under the print head so it can only drop into the bowl, not onto the bed or the floor.
Also, if you have the time, you can heat it up, loosen it off, let it cool, replace the nozzle, heat it up, tighten it up.
Great vidio you have here. Thank you for you help with my Ender 3.
I think the problem with nylon with moisture issues is that the initial moisture might have seeped deep in to the roll and it may take longer to dry to get the moisture from deeper in the spool. just a theory.
use a dehydrator
Yes thank you
Nice video! Question, did you change any other hardware (thermistor/ motherboard)? Saw a video in another channel and the guy super upgraded the Ender 3 for carbon filaments and the print looked like crap.
I’m just starting to learn about 3d printing before I invest in one and this was a great video. Just one question: when you’re feeding the nylon from the spool into the printer, you’re using bare hands and I was wondering whether your skin oils can affect it and cause weak spots?
no, there's nothing wrong with touching the filament with your hands.
@@morbus5726 noice! Thanks bro, I just got myself a Voxelab Aquila. Love it!
Thanks so much for this! I just got my first printer 2 weeks ago (Ender 3 Pro). I upgraded my extruder and bought a tungsten carbide nozzle as well because I picked up PLA carbon fibre as well. I haven’t tried that stuff yet and I seem to have issues with the TC nozzle. The store told me I won’t need to make a temp change with TC but I’m not sure about that. I also installed a Creality Carborundum Glass Plate which is impressive! No glue required ever! Any tips on the tungsten carbide nozzle? I haven’t tried it on the glass yet.
@Spencer M lots and lots of upgrades over the last year lol
@ModBot Also if I can add, Nylon, Polyamid in general, is sensitive to moisture you said it, but not only out of the box. Every parts will capture moisture after the process, approx 200hrs for maximum moisture absorbtion (depending on the environment). The Nylon, obtain full mechanical characteristics when its full of its moisture capacity (between 2 and 10% of the mass), and, has an incidence on dimentional (more shrink at 0% humidity).
Because of that, if you do a stress test on your speakers hooks for exemple, one right after printing and the other after 200Hrs (less if you put it in correct percentage of water), pretty sure that the straight out of printer one if approx 4 times weaker (fragile)
As FDM is a laminating process, I'm wondering about the impact of moisture between layers versus an injection part...
Sorry for the long story, good video man!
is there something that you can use to "seal" a nylon print to keep the absorption from happening? after it's finished?
@@psychot6859 I don't know why you would do that because, as I said, if the part is "dry", it will have approx 25% of the strengh advertised in the specsheet (in theory).
If you really want to seal it I guess a resin or a primer (pretty elastic) would do the job...
I think I may have read your post wrong. I thought you meant if it was DRY it would be stronger. You actually said it would be stronger AFTER it had absorbed water. That was where I made the oops.
During a period of selling industrial plastics to factories and custom fabricators, a new "know it all" customer didn't want any advice on choosing a plastic for a specific application of bushings. We recommended not to use nylon because the bushings were going to be getting sprayed with water. He insisted. OK. A few days later he calls in furious we sold him some "stuff" that broke his steel drive shaft. The nylon enlarged from the water and the shaft seized and torqued itself to death. He was sure no plastic could do that because all plastics were "weak" in his mind. Nitwit.
How bout moisturizing and then sealing
You should try Polymaker PA6-CF (Carbon Fiber Nylon Material) I have not had any warping issues with that at all and its insanely strong
I orderd soome of that today ...have u seen the pla META from polymaker
@@weld4200 Do you Mean PolyTerra PLA from Polymaker? I Couldn't Find PLA META
@@toastinat0r sorry its sunlus idk y i said polymaker
Excellent video. Thank you
So I use a markforged everyday at work to make prototype and small production run parts. It uses Onyx which is a chopped CF and Nylon blend. We struggle constantly with wet filament which hurts at $175 for ~900grams. I'm totally going to try swapping out a dryer for the stock drybox. Do you use any bed heat with the NylonX? The markforged doesn't have one.
Yes, bed needs to be around 90 C.
And Nylon is very hygroscopic, you need to dry it at 70 C before using it.
I print a lot with Carbon Fiber Nylon (and CF PolyCarbonate).
Functional parts mostly, for robotic components, even parts for vehicles (motorcycle).
Recently, I managed to print Ultem9085 and CF-PEEK on my (significantly modified) CR-10.
You covered it up pretty well, I'd just add few things for CF-Nylon and for anyone wanting to go over 300C (CF-PC):
- If you print a lot with CF, get a Ruby nozzle - it'll pay it self off very quickly! Some types of CF-Nylon have up to 30% of Carbon Fibers and that will destroy brass nozzle within an hour or even the hardened steel nozzle within a days.
- To go over 300C, I use BP6 HotEnd with High Temp Heat Break (black hexagonal) and PT1000. But there are some new Hot Ends (NF-Crazy V6 Magnum & Dragon V6) that should work even better. I personally don't like MicroSwiss.
- Consider Direct Drive Extruder, especially if you get High Temp Heat Break
- To go over 120C bed temp, I highly recommend AC bed heater
- For 300C+ Hot End, don't print mount (or anything else around it) in PLA or PETG, it will fail very quickly, it might even melt. I use SLA printer for such parts and Phrozen TR250 + Siraya Tech Blue resin mix.
One more thing:
If you have problems with Bed Adhesion: PEI sheet is the best solution.
You can also try Nano Polymer Adhesive.
All great points!
Is it safe to assume the Vanadium nozzle is better than a ruby nozzle? Seeing so many bad reviews of the ruby. But then again, probably by inexperienced users.
www.sliceengineering.com/collections/nozzles
@@Sleepery22 I like the double-sided Fulament sheet. I don't use the 3M magnet on the alum heat bed. Just bare plate to bed.
Which Direct Drive & Dual Drive / mounts etc do you recommend for Ender 3 (Pro). Well really Ender 3 V2, but too new, may have to get a Ender 3 backplate to use established mounts.
@@timd9430 I printed probably couple of kilos of Carbon Fiber and Glass Fiber with 0.8 Ruby Nozzle, and it spits out anything I feed to it. No problem and no signs of deterioration. Haven't tried Vandium yet..
Double sided Fulament PEI sheet: looks interesting, I'll try it. Thanks for a tip!
Magnets: Yeah, stay away from them, I already had a lot of problem with AC heater interfering with EZABL.
Extruder: I have some cheap copy of Bondtech BMG, but it works quite well.
I had zero issues, pushing PEEK and Ultem, it all went incredibly smooth.. @ 350 C and 400 C
And if I had the jams, it was usually when material gets retracted from High Temp Heat Break into PTFE which is just slightly wider and then it cools down and it doesn't wanna push it back.. and that's usually with materials that you should even print with HT break (like PLA). I'm trying now tiny o-2mm/O-3mm steel tube between Extruder and Heat Break, instead of PTFE, we'll see how that works..
How did you get your ball and socket perfectly round I always end up with a flatish ball
Gr8 video mate. Me and Don looking for a good 3d printer, but can't find a good video which one to get. What spec should we be looking for
Hey man I'm doing a project looking into printing an insole for a road cyclist would you say this material is strong enough for weight baring? As it definitly seems stiff enough for the project. Great video thanks!
printed nylon with the stock hotend with absolutely no degredation (or discoloring or even smell) from the teflon. and I check that little bugger every 10 hours.
easy to replace the insert too, so im gonna stick with teflon inserts rather than the headaches every single full metal hotend ive ever used has given me with clogging (and the heat throat stays cold, so it's not heat creep. the cooling fan is pretty powerful.)
PTFE releases toxic gasses when exposed to high temps in hot end, especially for any birds in the house….
I've seen a pla carbon fibre. How would this compare to the nylon versions
Congrats!
Thanks Kaur!! :)
Golden like. thank you for the fantastic video!
Thank you ! Have been wondering about nylon and carbon. Two questions. 1. After printing does the nylon absorb enough moisture for later part failure? (I'm in FL also :) 2. How does it hold up in higher heat conditions? For example the dashboard of a car in full summer heat and sunshine. Thanks again for your time! - Howard in North FL
After printing nylon you want your nylon to absorb moisture. It becomes more impact resistant when it has absorbed a bit of moisture.
The reason moisture in the filament ruins your print is that the moisture goes through the nozzle, turns to steam, and makes air bubbles in your extrusion line, and fucks up your part.
@@Hallslys thanks for the good clarification.
@@Hallslys that is a very good explanation. In Louisiana so this clarifies a lot of things to look forwards to when printing with this stuff. Merci et au revoir mes amis!
Food dryer preparation + weather seal container with silicon gel dryer during print + eSun CF filament. 250C is good enough for functional prints
I also run the eSun EPA cf, great stuff at a better price
How is the esun CF nylon for warping? Have been tempted to get some. I printed some nylon 6 a little while ago and after I removed it from the build plate it would slowly warp
I'd argue the carbon fiber helps against warping a little, I've had pretty good success with a brim if the contact to the bed is very small. also printed a hero me mount and fan duct no issues
@@BrokecaR34JC thanks 😊 I will have to give it a try😁
that all good if the nozzel is the same as the one you replace as boden tube might not touch pliss bed level again
This was great thanks! Have you found a difference between various grades of cf nylon? For example the PA vs the PA-6? Tha ks again!
What slicer setting did you use to get these prints that nicely?
I'm discovering the stronger printing materials and incidentely they require higher temps.
Was wondering how you can go above the stock printer max temperature ? I own a cr10v2, anyone knows if it can handle high temps? (standard max is 260 for the hotend and 110 for the bed)
Hey man thanks for this video, my question:
I’m new in this world and I want a adviser of you, I’m engineer and I with my friend Matt rewired boats, so I want to remake dashboards cause I think gonna look great; 1) those printer have just small printer areas? 2) I know carbon fiber is such resistant!, like marine grade?
We want to buy one so can you help us? Thanks brother and you are awesome
Greetings
Raúl and Matt
Great job! Thank you!
Nice mods on your ender.. mine is almost the same, just without direct drive.
Your carriage looks different, is that a modified one and where did you get it?
The carriage is included with the microswiss direct drive all metal setup. It is included in the kit.
@@ModBotArmy thankyou..
What thickness would you recommend for a garolite sheet and what kind of garolite should we use?
Sweet! Thanks for the video! I have a couple rolls of carbon fiber nylon, and an Ender 3 Pro with a MicroSwiss hotend. Haven't tried it yet. I've got filament from TreeD (Carbonium), and from eSun (ePa-CF).
have you been able to print epa-cf successfully? what settings? flow, temps, retraction, everything. i'm having problems. i can't solve...
@@icepod Hey, I didn't have a chance to use it yet. Nothing that I printed has yet warranted using it compared to PLA+. What problem are you having? Warping? Bed adhesion? Do you have a heated chamber or a tent to keep the heat in and protect from drafts?
@@wandererstraining I've since added a heated chamber, spool dryer directly fed into it. It helps a lot, glue stick and raft help,. Especially for small parts. Not getting the desired precision on prints though, I'm only printing it at 260 (aiming for 275) and for some reason my printers won't go higher when I set it, it always flips back to 260 after a second. I had 300 running fine a few months ago on one , but I've fiddled with so much since then, I don't know what could be doing it. I've checked everything I could think of... Octoprint, octoprint plug-ins, printer and cura settings. Firmware should allow it. Funny thing is, the printer that I didn't upgrade the firmware on was the one that ran @300 and I didn't upgrade the firmware on it, yet now it does the same as the other one. Both are anycubic vyper. Any idea what could be doing it? I think that would be the last trick to getting decent prints.
@@icepod What kind of hotend do you have? An all metal one? Here, I'm also using a TH3D EZBoard V2.0 motherboard. Could also be a heater cartridge problem? Are you using slow speeds? Is it possible that the printer is trying to keep the temp at 300°C, but that the flow cools down the hotend and the heater cartridge isn't powerful enough to make up for it?
@@wandererstraining it's the stock hotend on the anycubic vyper but it is all-metal AFAIK, I haven't swapped it out yet. I didn't want to upgrade yet so as to not introduce more potential problems. I did swap the nozzle out to hardened steel though, but until I can get it to not throttle the temp back to 260, I'll swap the hotend out. It'd be great to not have to swap the thermistor out, that's why I was testing it before, to see if the thermistor could read the Temps, and it held 300 rock solid, but I really only need 275. IDT it's a heater cartridge issue, since when it held 30p it was very stable and accurate. The way it throttles it tells me that it has to be something software or firmware. If I set it in octoprint, the temp graph of the target blips up for one second, then the target goes back down to 260 the next time interval. If I set it in the printer touchscreen, entering 275 and clicking OK just doesn't change the target temp at all. If I set it the same place to 260, it works, but if I hit the + button, it won't go up to 261, it stays at 260. Same thing if I set the nozzle temp to 275 in the cure profile when slicing, it just prints at 260. Yes, I'm using super slow speeds, 10mm/s. That helped a lot, I think it compensates for the temp because it's so slow that it heats up the previous layer so it gets a decent bond, but the bond could be better, and it doesn't seem to liquefy as much as it should. The heater cartridge should be enough, like I said, it held 300 perfectly stable. It definitely shows the target nozzle temp being throttled down, I'm not talking about the instantaneous nozzle temp. It has to be firmware I think, are there any terminal commands to check?
Thanks for the video.
Great video very informative thanks.
I have a full metal hotend on my e3 but I don't know what settings to change in the firmware on my skr mini e3 to go higher that the stock 260c.
Change maxtemp settings to 300c. If your current firmware does not support it...move to th3d firmware and change maxtemp there......i believe their firmware allows 285c.......after this...your machine will go up to 275c on the eprom, but can be overridden in your slicer up to 285c. With 285c...you will be able to print most nylons and some pc....cheers
It is max temp in marlin. You will likely need to flash a boot loader to the board as well. I made a video on the boot loader portion of it. There should be many videos on modifying marlin on TH-cam.
What kind of temp sensor do you have on the hotend? The original ender 3 sensor has got some PTFE which can be melted with high temp. Usually high temp thermocouples are in a metal casing that cannot be fitted on micro swiss.
Aquanet is great on glass for cf nylon too
amazing video thank you!
would you say its roughly the sane thing with PolyCarbonnate?
Awesome video....quick question ive been wanting a 3d printer for a while now and I would like to know if you have done a video of the right upgrades for a ender 3...thanks in advance👍
there technically isn't a "right upgrade" for a 3D printer, just upgrades that can help you do specific things. for example using certain filaments
Hey man, love your channel! Every time I see a carbon fiber Nylon filament print it looks pretty fuzzy, like it has a sand paper feel to it. Is the print surface rough ou is it as flat as a pla ou abs print? I love the visual aspects of it, perhaps I can emulate this with a really light fuyzzy skin on cura
yup. florida brings the wet. I have 3 over my printers setup with dryers as feed system. lol
Have you tried printing any POM (Acetyl/Delrin)? Aside from printing on paper or wood, haven't found much on this...
I have been at this for days with the same matterhackers stuff. I have been all over the place with settings and just can’t seem to get it to come out well. I think I’m in over my head with the advanced settings in Cura and am making worse clicking things I have no idea what they do lol. I’m still quite new to all of this, but have had some successes with other materials. Even a few successes with this, but now I think I have my advanced settings are all out of whack. Going back to default settings tomorrow and just adjusting temp, layer thickness and speed Yes, it’s been drying for days and days in the matterhackers filament dryer. Getting all kinds of goops on the first few layers and fuzz here and there all over the rest. Not to mention the tops but don’t look good for the cosmetic effect I’m needing. Getting quite frustrated. I also have 3dxtech petg carbon fiber that was apparently much easier to print. Same problem so I’m beginning to think it’s extruded issue or like I said I’ve fucked up settings that I don’t even know what they do. Kinda sucks since it’s a brand new Optimus P1. Thanks for sharing!
I have a question, the printer creality cr 10s pro v2 can print with filaments like PETG PC CF?
Wonder whether it would string enough to print a recurve compound bow?
Thank you for the video, it was helpful. I am printing with carbon fiber nylon pretty well so far. But the one thing I am having issues with is that in the few areas where I do need support it sticks to my part very well and is difficult to remove. I'm sure that is related to the nylon having good layer adhesion. Are there any suggestions on settings adjustments in Cura that can help the supports come off cleaner?
You can go to full setting visibility under support, and there you will find something (I forget the full name, sorry) along the lines of support distance that can space the support further away from the model, making it easier to remove
adjust your support x and y distance
Subbed! I have an Ender 3 modded with the same stuff as yours and I'm printing at 40mm/s with CF Nylon. All my side faces or edges I guess are really rough and I can see the nozzle almost like it's dragging the filament at the edges as it prints. I'm printing around 275c and the first layers go down smooth, but after abut the 5th layer it starts to get rough on the edges. I dried my filament super well and it's in a sealed box that has a sealed tube leading all the way to the Microswiss extruder. Anything I can do to smooth up the edge printing?
I'm just getting into printing Nylon and have a similar scenario. It sounds like the temperature is a bit high and causing the poor edges. I'm also printing at 275 as lower than that I get delamination. I printed a temperature calibration column where each section is 5 degrees cooler than the one before and the finish was best around 250-260 (though layer strength was weaker for me).
@@EricTViking I had the line width set too low in my slicers. I changed it to be within 120-150% of nozzle diameter and it's printing much better now. Oops! I was having layer adhesion issues at lower temps also. Running about 270 helps a lot.
@@EthanVandal thanks mate, I might have a look at that. Meanwhile have ordered some branded nylon (Alloy 910) to see if that performs better than what I have.
@@EricTViking That sounds interesting. I'm reading about it. Might try some also. So many filaments, so little time!
A garolite build plate with purple glue stick will solve your warp off the build plate. I have found garolite to be great with PC as well
Great tips! I plan on visiting PC as well on the channel. Thank you for the input!
I use garolite for everything.
What's the brand of tool you're using for the nozzle?
Great video!💪
Thx!!!
Just wondering has anyone ever sandblasted top of their glass bed to get a friction to glass especially if your doing base peel off to your part ? Love videos and new to 3d printing.
Hi, i am new to 3D, and want to learn myself of everything, but most youtubers doesn't reply to any questions, even if it is interesting subject
Will the AnyCubic Mega X work with Carbon Fiber Nylon?
Where did you get the x carriage Made from Aluminium on your Ender?
MicroSwiss kit
To anyone doing any sanding, filing or cutting. Wear gloves and protective gear. Just like glass fibers or any other, carbon fiber strands on skin cause serious itching/skin damage and the stuff doesn't come off even after weeks of scrubbing and cleaning... I've heard of some people reporting that there's still carbon fiber strands in their skin observable under a microscope years later
Hello. what nozzle temperature do you use 275? but the ender 3 reaches 260 maximum, I like the gerar light bed thanks for your video
Great video.. I am building a an arm robot.. which material would you use for that. I used PLA. But i am thinking to replace the base by Nylon.. Please let me know your point of view
Thanks in advance
I thought I was subscribed, I am now.
Does someone know if this type of filaments, with carbon fibers, conduct electricity? I wonder if it is possible to print some part which will be able to work as conductor?