Excellent! Just got the manifold on and it works but not fully tested yet (no events in lockdown 😡), but plenty of other good stuff to make planned! What car do you race?
@@MakingforMotorsport got a k11 micra that I've got a 1.6 from a pulsar (in Australia) to go in it for motorkhanas/autotests. Very much a maximum speed, minimum bucks build Look forward to seeing more of your build too
1600? That’ll go well, I had a 1400cc for a few months a while back, it went well until aerodynamics force take over, but off the line and up to 45-60mph it was fairly rapid... best of luck with the build!
@@MakingforMotorsport thanks! We got the 1.6 with 115bhp over down under, which should be an improvement on the standard Micra at 74bhp. Supposedly it bolts up to the gearbox and only needs a small notch in the frame rail for water pump clearance. I'd love to put throttle bodies on it or even some boost, but I'll get it running standard first and then start messing with it. Should go pretty well
I have a different (similar) printer and setup, but I used the same settings that you recommended and my first print with this filament also came out great! Super helpful and time saving so I don't have to fiddle with settings forever. Thank you!
Printer tech is getting amazing. I have this printer and just purchased a new K1C to print carbon fiber. for $459.00 it is an amazing value. We have come a long way in 11 years.
This is exactly the channel I've been looking for! I have been making racing drones since 2015 and wrenching on cars every day for years. Thought it was time to mix the two hobbies and now I NEED a 3d printer!
Oh man, I’d love a go at a FPV drone… it seems like great fun… maybe sometime soon… Either way welcome along to the channel, glad your enjoying it! (And everyone should have a 3D printer 😉)
If you have an all metal hotend, run Marlin and set the max temp higher, then yes. I've been printing this stuff on my Ender 3 for awhile. It really likes 270C for proper layer adhesion and keep it dry. Using a textured glass bed with glue stick. I recommend always using a raft because this stuff is hard to pull off the bed, the raft makes it much easier to remove.
I’d agree a bit more heat will help but I wanted to stick to the stock main board with just a couple of mods, anyone who can assemble an Ender 3 can do the mods I have here, flashing the board or changing it is a completely different level of mod. ... which I totally plan to do!!! Want to do some PC and others (in silence) so a SKR turbo board and an enclosure are on the list, watch this space!
THANK YOU FOR EVERYTHING!! THIS IS AN AWESOME CHANNEL!! ANSWER TO ALL MY ENTERTAINMENT/LEARNING/HOBBY PRAYERS.. I could go on and on. I just like to give credit where credit is due. Your doing great. THANK YOU !!
Hot damn! I found this channel while looking at Speeduino efi conversions and here I find you again messing around with 3D printed CF bits. Great video, once again.
just bought my self ender 3 v2 for make some case for speeduino ecu. ive been tried with ABS+ but maybe its time to step up to another level Thanks for awesome explanation !
There are others out there but I highly recommend Fusion 360 from Autodesk, if you don’t use it. It’s very close to Inventor which is an industry standard, there are LOADS of tutorials and best of all... it’s free!
@@MakingforMotorsport thanks for mentioning Fusion 360, that’s exactly I’m using,,, I messed around with Solidworks but they charge too much, playing with s ketchup,, but yeah you’re right Fusion 360 has free version and lots of tutorial,, looking forward to see your projects.
Are these all I need, steel nozzle, hot end and Capricorn tubing to be CF ready printing?, I do have glass bed already.. Question about hygroscopic, my house is 35-50 % humidity, do I still need heating and dehumidifier box? Thanks.
Excellent! Glad you found it helpful! I love hearing about other people’s projects, what car are you putting the adaptor on? I am making an induction manifold from the Nylon for ITBs... should be test running this weekend 🤞
@@MakingforMotorsport my Car is a BMW E46 318ti with the 2L N42B20. I designed an Adapter to use the BMW B48 intake manifold with internal Charge cooler, the newer Style water/Air cooler. Pretty nice stuff.
Very nice! I had an E36 compact with the M44 and want another one, underrated cars, I haven’t tried the E46 yet but I plan to get another compact soon. Are you running a turbo or a supercharger to need the charge cooling?
This is brilliant, just got an Ender 3 and was hoping to use this for making a plenum for my supercharged Clio, will absolutely give it a crack now, thanks!
@@MakingforMotorsport ask away. I did a few videos specific to laying up and working with carbon already, but like most things, the fine details can be the difference between a good result or a full trash can.
Great video thank you. I have one question, I'm confused. Throughout the print process, you stated that the nozzle temp was set to 255 degrees. But when you did the break test, it broke at the 240 mark so would it not be 235 degrees? Thanks again!
you should buy a tent or a make a tent enclosure for over the printer, a enclosure helps keep heat and just regulate the atmosphere inside in general, it helps reduce noise, your drybox is really cool
i love your using 3d prints for functional parts! do you think this filament would hold up clamped to a steering rack to hold a finned oil cooler? I have designed a mount that clamps around the rack, and around the cooler, 3D printed in PLA as a prototype and the plan was to have machined from aluminium however im thinking i may do the same and just print from this CF Nylon, the issue i have is i cannot do any testing as i cannot use the car until i have the power steering lines and cooler made up and installed and i cant seem to find any info on the kind of temps these components get to under heavy use. The car is used for drifting so the power steering takes a beating lol
Nice! A few questions: 1. Will the micro swiss all metal hotend work? 2. I have a filadryer by SunLu. Do I need to have an enclosure or can I just leave the filament inside that dryer and have it print from it? 3. What causes those blobs on your benchy? Thanks!
1. A genuine microswiss will do the job very nicely. 2. A dryer that you can print from is ideal! 3. Oozing. And my general feeling that 90% is good enough! 😂
Hi, thanks for watching! I changed to some hardened steel nozzles from Amazon, I have put the link in the description (not an affiliate link). I haven’t done enough printing to test the longevity but they are working fine now...
Is carbon fiber content in nylon under or over 10% ? Btw. very usefull video. Most of videos about cheap printers like Ender, is about simple PLA printing.
I can imagine, love a rotary screamer! I am hoping to get away with ASA for mine, air intake temp rarely goes higher than +10degC over ambient for me, and in the UK that normally means not that hot at all! 😂 You gonna use CF- nylon?
@@MakingforMotorsport Yeah CF nylon seems like the best option without going even crazier like PEEK. I'm scared to try but I wonder if the intake could be printed. I have a 20"³ build area. I need a new intake for semi peripheral ports.
@@Skater3z3b a lot of OEM manifolds are Glass fibre Nylon so it should be up to it, at least I hope it is, as I have a CF-Nylon printed manifold holding my ITBs to my engine at the moment! In 4 weeks I will have done an event and will be able to feedback, but extensive driveway testing is looking good... but an Weber IDA is a heavy piece of kit, if you plan for a metal bracket to take the weight and vibration etc then it might work... keep an eye on the channel, I will have a “how to 3D print a manifold” with all my mistakes soon!
Hi mate! I'm buying a 3D printer soon, since I saw your channel, I'm making high definition parts on Carbon fiber/nylon and other materials. What 3D printer would you recommend to buy? Around 200-300€ Hope you can help me🙏🏻
Hi MfM, Looking to 3D Print a hose piece to allow a standard radiator from one car to work with another, it's something of a T-piece to have coolant feed into the turbo instead of just straight into the block. Thinking of buying Polycarbonate or the Filament you used in this video, but leaving this comment to ask for your opinion with material as the T-Piece will be brought up to temp rather quick and with it being a pressurized I'm wondering if PC or what not would be up to it. Great content anyway, think it's a fantastic niche that you've made and has endless possibility in my opinion.
Awesome video! So I'll just need to upgrade my extruder, and get a hardened tip? Or I need an upgraded hot end as well? Can't wait to do this with mine!!!
@@MakingforMotorsport I've been practicing with PLA and getting used to printing in general, have watched allot of your videos👍🏼 this is dangerous😏😎.... So.... Much ... Fun....
Time to take another stab at this on my E3. I can get the same, or better, cosmetic results with nylon. I have serious layer adhesion problems though, really negates the strength benefit. I can easily pull the smoke stack and cabin off of the hull when using nylon.😢
Another great video and between this and the annealing vid, by far the most useful I’ve seen so far! I have a Creality CR10S Pro with micro Swiss hotend and I’ve been looking for a higher temp filament for a while. PETG has been my standard multi-use filament as the Amazon basics version is cheap and easy to get hold of, but I was disappointed by its lack of temp resistance! I was going to print a prototype custom air box for my modified (supercharged) Porsche 924, before reproducing it in aluminium, but with these temp levels, I can easily print a final version and save myself a lot of hassle and argon!! It will even look more OEM in plastic and not welded ally!! Huge thanks and great to see your journey and experiences! Subscribed!! 👍🏻
Update...just bought a 1kg roll of Sunlu CF-Nylon off Amazon Prime for £45 but with 15% discount code down to £39! Arrives tomorrow! Thanks again for the heads up!! 😁👍🏻
Thanks for the comments man and a supercharged 924 sounds like a lot of fun! But I’ve gotta head over to Amazon, heard there’s some cheap CF-Nylon to be had! 👍
Awesome video! Thanks! Does the mod to the hot end make the printer any less functional for basic PLA filament? I would love to make the mod but I'd like to be able to continue doing the basic kid stuff with PLA, too.
Great question… short answer yes. A low quality hot end will make PLA printing very stringy and/or prone to clogging (so much so I made a video about stopping clogging!) and even a high quality one like an E3D V6 (like the Prusa mk3) needs to be tuned well to work effectively, it can be done definitely but it’s a downside of going all metal which is rarely discussed!
@@MakingforMotorsport I've noticed that. Bought the same hotend you got but can't get it to print PLA without directly clogging on me. Tightening nozzle when hot, adjust retraction, tweaking temperatures, been there done that. Can't get it to work properly. Did you do any special tweaking to get it to work?
My question is after the print does the material still absorb moisture at the same rate. ...so if i have two interlocking pieces will they expand and not fit if left separate for an extended amount of time. Or will it be stuck assembled
Hi sir, just bought a roll of CF nylon. Do you have any experience how the printed parts behave to moisture? Was planning to make a relay box in the engine bay for a 4x4 but still worried as to some forum threads say that nylon reacts with water and can cause the part to go brittle.
Nylon is hygroscopic so it will pull in water from the Air, but this isn't submerged so it's not too bad, and it does changes it's properties slightly, and whilst I believe 3D prints are more suseptable to this that injection moulded, as long as you're not right on the edge it shouldn't affect it. It doesn't seem to affect all the rest of the Nylon I have in my life.....
Yeah, thanks for the comment, since I did this video I haven’t done a lot in this material but I plan it up it as you say but I don’t get much stringing so it works as a base setting. The reason it was 2.5mm is I had bad clogging with this hot end on other materials with my standard 4mm (I did a vid on that), that said Nylon with the higher glass temp can probably stand it.
@@MakingforMotorsport If you don't get much stringing, then there's no need to change it as well :) I just thought, that the "rough" bits on the right side of your benchy could be improved that way. Incredibly interesting topic nontheless.
Yeah, it’s the blobbing that I am thinking about, I still get that. I get less with lower temps but I want the strength from the high temps... I guess things like this are never finished.... always something to improve and try!
I got a 24litre storage box and made a little roller cradle and a little 5v fan housing to circulate air through the dessicant, it's the air movement through the dessicant that is key.... packets on their own work but it takes a looooong time!
Thanks for the sub! My tip would be to practice as much as possible and if you have aims to make practical prints don’t spend a lot of time with PLA! There are plenty of materials out there!
Absolutely shocking!! I thought it was law! I have only printed a couple and I tend to learn with little from them, but it is a good all round test....
I'd imagine it'd definitely last a good few prints.... but I've just left the hardened one in now, they're the just the standard, although I do feel like you need a few extra degrees temp with them.
At 7:08 the sample breaks between 245 and 250, you CAN'T get it to break between 230 and 235, and you say, we've got our temperature, 255? I'm missing the logic here.
Because the printing temp at the 230-235 level on model is actually 255, but with no fan (I repeat the temps with and without the fan), check out 5:42 for the idea….
It’s nowhere near as strong as proper CF, or even injection moulded PA-GF, but the small fibres do a great job of resisting warping during printing and aren’t affected by heat so there is less of a drop off at elevated temps… If you are expecting full blow CF… you ain’t getting it… mildly improved verses none CF filament… yes 👍
In my case cooling is required when printing the smokestack/Chimney, cooling fans at 15 to prevent melting, to be fair I use an enclosure and MatterHackers Nylonx
I am looking at getting an enclosure so I can bump up the temps, but I’d imagine it’s not too bad to cooling it with 50deg air... do you keep your electronics out of the enclosure?
@@MakingforMotorsportNo, the electronics are in the enclosure. I failed to mention that I use a Raise3D pro2 though I do have an ender 3( which is why I watched the video) I had not thought of keeping the electronics out. I imagine it would be beneficial. But then you could just duct air to the fans to save the hassle of removing the PSU and boards.
@@MakingforMotorsport i just found this eSun filament and I find it cheap enough, in case you are interested! www.powerplanetonline.com/en/filament-esun-1kg-epa-cf-nylon-carbon-fiber
i have been wondering, can you print low-temp nylon with the stock hotend? the manufacturer of the nylon i chose says the ideal temp for printing is 240-245, which the stock hotend can handle (i think). do you think it would be possible? with a proper V6 nozzle, obviously.
HOLY SHEEEEEEEET! I, too, bought a 3d printer, with the goal of adapting ITB's eventually... also involves a Mini! But this Mini will get a Honda D, not the A series... But I do have the Moke that will get A series and EFI.... Funny!
@@1Beetlegeuse there’s been lots of people saying they plan to do it. Mine are on the car now, I am going to get a few more miles on them and then do a summary video with all the mistakes I made 👍. Good luck with your project!
Get out..... ha, only joking, they are traditional but often they don’t relate to my type of printing so I rarely do them too, I think you learn more from different prints, xyz cube for example....
@@MakingforMotorsport every time I see someone print one I say to myself "Oh I must print one and see how my settings and calibrations fare" but never get around to it.
This is my first mini, the a-series is a perfect match but getting good power gets expensive! 8500rpm on a 3 bearing crank! Wow! I've got some small bits on the manifolds in the ITB videos but I'm gonna round everything up on them once the R&D is done and get all 3D geeky!
@@MakingforMotorsport yes it gets very expensive, that 1380 build did get right up there in cost.. I will go through the videos you have :) to be honest if I do another mini Iwill prob go with a honda engine
@@MakingforMotorsport I know what you mean, the handling goes out the window.. A friend of mine back in the UK did the Honda swap back in the very early 90's and he said it was not the same after that
The Carbon filaments really just need a hardened nozzle, CF-PLA for example, it’s more about the plastic, but everything to do CF-Nylon is in the video👍
can you print faster than 50mm/s ? i tend to print at 150 with abs and pla, just about to switch to this same material and was hoping to keep up the same speed?
I'd say it depends on the printer.... and your priorities. My Ender 3 is never gonna be a speed machine, and it's not a commercial enterprise so I don't mind waiting for a few hours longer....
@@MakingforMotorsport I've got 5 ender 3 v2 pros, so they have the upgraded parts on them, I have my own business making parts for cars, I 3d print all my products. I'm now using that sainsmart carbon nylon and its not going great so far, 0 successful prints due to bed adhesion, im using glass and glue like you said but it still warps
great video , making parts for an Ebike and using a stock ender 3 v2 with capricorn tube , will give this nylon CF a go ! also not interested in spending money on addons for printer and don't care what the parts look like.
@@MakingforMotorsport going to try 3D BEST-Q Carbon-PC , people in the reviews say there getting away with 260C 0.5m nossal. will give it a shot and buy an all metal hotend if it crumbles under stress. Also thinking of using thin bolts through design to strengthen it up a bit like reinforced concrete !
@@MakingforMotorsport PCFC 260C 100C bed in room 2x2 meter with extractor. capricorn tube XS aluminium extruder upgrade ( I doubt its needed ) was a success. really strong parts. I read PRILINE Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate is also the same as I'm using. 250c to 260c. I think I read somewhere Nylon CF has better layer adhesion and I think these PCFC filaments are a mix of PC and other stuff ( how they get the lower print temp ) either way , works well for me and no hot end upgrade. main reason I wanted to try was I think capricorn has less problem with jams and clogs. Saying that I'd love to test out Nylon CF eventually so will have to get an all metal hotend for that anyway one day.
Yeah, the stock thing is abit of a stretch so sorry if I deceived you... where was the 235deg piece? I did the test at a range but I use 255 for this filament as a standard....
@@MakingforMotorsport He didn't actually absorb what you were saying and showing at the 5:39 mark - that you didn't follow the exact temperatures printed on the test piece. He thought you were following the 220, 225, 230, etc steps as printed on the actual model.
@@MakingforMotorsport I need to print a 3mm thick 1/10 RC buggy chassis...do you think is tough enough? It seems seller shop don't ship to UK, alternatives? Thanks
Its plenty strong but it’s not particularly stiff, so just a 3mm thick plate isn’t likely to be particularly stiff but that may not bother you. I got it on Amazon, it pops up every so often and can go off quick
Same here... then I just thought, f*** it, and got one for the garage.... my wife was furious!!! 😂😂😂. I don’t think I have had my money out of it..... yet! 👍
Nylon is very prone to warping just like ABS, so on thin parts (or just early in prints) you want to avoid it, and if you can print without it then that’s ideal…
I am finding that out at the moment, nylon generally is but to be sure I have a sample marinated in petrol now and we’ll see what a couple of weeks does to it!
I've been hesitant about trying CF-filament due to carbon fiber particles being about as dangerous as asbestos. I am no scientist but I have read multiple articles about 3d printing with CF releases airborne particles. Also, there are tests that show CF-filament not being stronger than other kinds of filaments. I use nylon, polycarbonate and sometimes ASA for my car parts. ASA emits unhealthy fumes so I use it sparingly as polycarbonate seems to have similar properties.
This was great. Very informative. Thank you for posting. But for the love of God, please don't talk at a 3/10 and then play music at 10/10. So glad I wasn't wearing my headphones.
@@MakingforMotorsport What size nozzle are you using I have the exact set up and I’m having horrible problems with clogging I am using Hardened steel 4 mm nozzle
I am using a 0.4mm nozzle, but I don’t think that’ll be your problem... things I do now... 1. Double check your nozzle is tight when hot, always do the final tighten when hot 2. I would do a small test print without retraction - if you still get clogging or the extruder skipping it’s likely you have too much flow and your e-steps need calibrating. Tune the flow down to prove this 3. If no retraction solves ur problem then you had the same issue as me so follow my steps and then slowly increase the setting. 4. Other things I did was remove the retention screws to help Other people have suggested printing slower aswell as that will also slow the filament flow. I solved it, so can you!!! Best of luck 👍
There's nothing "almost stock" once you install an all metal hot end. The only way it could be less stock, would be to make it direct drive. Click bait.
I don’t think that the Ender 3 is the “best” printer for this material, something with an all metal hot end and higher temps as standard would be better an enclosure would be ideal... but that is probably a $800 printer.... (I buy cars for less than that 😂)
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Just bought an Ender 3 to use to make motorsport parts. You've got yourself a new subscriber
Excellent! Just got the manifold on and it works but not fully tested yet (no events in lockdown 😡), but plenty of other good stuff to make planned!
What car do you race?
@@MakingforMotorsport got a k11 micra that I've got a 1.6 from a pulsar (in Australia) to go in it for motorkhanas/autotests. Very much a maximum speed, minimum bucks build
Look forward to seeing more of your build too
1600? That’ll go well, I had a 1400cc for a few months a while back, it went well until aerodynamics force take over, but off the line and up to 45-60mph it was fairly rapid... best of luck with the build!
@@MakingforMotorsport thanks! We got the 1.6 with 115bhp over down under, which should be an improvement on the standard Micra at 74bhp. Supposedly it bolts up to the gearbox and only needs a small notch in the frame rail for water pump clearance.
I'd love to put throttle bodies on it or even some boost, but I'll get it running standard first and then start messing with it. Should go pretty well
How can he make parts if he just keep on talking on his entire video.
I have a different (similar) printer and setup, but I used the same settings that you recommended and my first print with this filament also came out great! Super helpful and time saving so I don't have to fiddle with settings forever. Thank you!
Printer tech is getting amazing. I have this printer and just purchased a new K1C to print carbon fiber. for $459.00 it is an amazing value. We have come a long way in 11 years.
This is exactly the channel I've been looking for! I have been making racing drones since 2015 and wrenching on cars every day for years. Thought it was time to mix the two hobbies and now I NEED a 3d printer!
Oh man, I’d love a go at a FPV drone… it seems like great fun… maybe sometime soon…
Either way welcome along to the channel, glad your enjoying it! (And everyone should have a 3D printer 😉)
@@MakingforMotorsport which printer would you recommend for this material?
If you have an all metal hotend, run Marlin and set the max temp higher, then yes. I've been printing this stuff on my Ender 3 for awhile. It really likes 270C for proper layer adhesion and keep it dry. Using a textured glass bed with glue stick. I recommend always using a raft because this stuff is hard to pull off the bed, the raft makes it much easier to remove.
I’d agree a bit more heat will help but I wanted to stick to the stock main board with just a couple of mods, anyone who can assemble an Ender 3 can do the mods I have here, flashing the board or changing it is a completely different level of mod.
... which I totally plan to do!!! Want to do some PC and others (in silence) so a SKR turbo board and an enclosure are on the list, watch this space!
Are you able to help recompile marlin? I got a PT1000 thermistor and E3D V6 hotend but I can’t seem to get it to compile correctly.
THANK YOU FOR EVERYTHING!! THIS IS AN AWESOME CHANNEL!! ANSWER TO ALL MY ENTERTAINMENT/LEARNING/HOBBY PRAYERS.. I could go on and on. I just like to give credit where credit is due. Your doing great. THANK YOU !!
Awesome! Thank you!
Hot damn! I found this channel while looking at Speeduino efi conversions and here I find you again messing around with 3D printed CF bits. Great video, once again.
Cheers Josh, glad you enjoyed it! Plenty more coming, hope you stick around!
Yes lets find out. Thanks for posting
just bought my self ender 3 v2 for make some case for speeduino ecu. ive been tried with ABS+ but maybe its time to step up to another level
Thanks for awesome explanation !
Go for it!
I have same printer and plan, I’m glad I found your channel..thanks.
Welcome along.... what are you planning to print in Nylon?
@@MakingforMotorsport I’m into RC hobby, making and designing parts most probably in CF...still new on 3D printing and learning CAD.
There are others out there but I highly recommend Fusion 360 from Autodesk, if you don’t use it. It’s very close to Inventor which is an industry standard, there are LOADS of tutorials and best of all... it’s free!
@@MakingforMotorsport thanks for mentioning Fusion 360, that’s exactly I’m using,,, I messed around with Solidworks but they charge too much, playing with s ketchup,, but yeah you’re right Fusion 360 has free version and lots of tutorial,, looking forward to see your projects.
Are these all I need, steel nozzle, hot end and Capricorn tubing to be CF ready printing?, I do have glass bed already..
Question about hygroscopic, my house is 35-50 % humidity, do I still need heating and dehumidifier box? Thanks.
Thanks for sharing this info,,
This will be useful for my rc crawler chassis parts
I been trying to do this for a couple of months already 3D carbon fiber some small parts for my cars ...you my man are in the right tracks
Cheers bud! Printing stuff for my car is my number 1 favourite thing! Plenty more things planned!
Thanks alot for the video, just found it and immediately ordered 2kg of that filament to print an intake adapter from it. Very much appreciated video!
Excellent! Glad you found it helpful! I love hearing about other people’s projects, what car are you putting the adaptor on?
I am making an induction manifold from the Nylon for ITBs... should be test running this weekend 🤞
@@MakingforMotorsport my Car is a BMW E46 318ti with the 2L N42B20. I designed an Adapter to use the BMW B48 intake manifold with internal Charge cooler, the newer Style water/Air cooler. Pretty nice stuff.
Very nice! I had an E36 compact with the M44 and want another one, underrated cars, I haven’t tried the E46 yet but I plan to get another compact soon.
Are you running a turbo or a supercharger to need the charge cooling?
@@MakingforMotorsport Actually i haven´t decided, but our TÜV pretty much forces me to use a supercharger.
This is brilliant, just got an Ender 3 and was hoping to use this for making a plenum for my supercharged Clio, will absolutely give it a crack now, thanks!
Just what I needed to see. Love your series of videos on all your 3d printed stuff.
Cheers bud… 2022 will be carbon fibre for me… I may have a few questions 😂👍
@@MakingforMotorsport ask away. I did a few videos specific to laying up and working with carbon already, but like most things, the fine details can be the difference between a good result or a full trash can.
@@MakingforMotorsport I'm FINALLY getting around to tinker with carbon/nylon haha. Just rewatched this for probably the 4th or 5th time now.
255 filament will just not be strong. you want some that melts and fuses together at 300 so its proper strong if exposed to heat.
Great video thank you. I have one question, I'm confused. Throughout the print process, you stated that the nozzle temp was set to 255 degrees. But when you did the break test, it broke at the 240 mark so would it not be 235 degrees? Thanks again!
This page is badass
love from across the pond
Cheers 👍 glad you enjoyed it!
you should buy a tent or a make a tent enclosure for over the printer, a enclosure helps keep heat and just regulate the atmosphere inside in general, it helps reduce noise, your drybox is really cool
I ended up making a Lack enclosure…… works a treat…
Knew you would be making parts for a mini as soon as i saw the crown wheel!
i love your using 3d prints for functional parts! do you think this filament would hold up clamped to a steering rack to hold a finned oil cooler? I have designed a mount that clamps around the rack, and around the cooler, 3D printed in PLA as a prototype and the plan was to have machined from aluminium however im thinking i may do the same and just print from this CF Nylon, the issue i have is i cannot do any testing as i cannot use the car until i have the power steering lines and cooler made up and installed and i cant seem to find any info on the kind of temps these components get to under heavy use. The car is used for drifting so the power steering takes a beating lol
thanks for the links my dude
Anytime! 👍
I had no idea Jason Statham was 3D print fan! 😂 Good job !!
Nice! A few questions:
1. Will the micro swiss all metal hotend work?
2. I have a filadryer by SunLu. Do I need to have an enclosure or can I just leave the filament inside that dryer and have it print from it?
3. What causes those blobs on your benchy?
Thanks!
1. A genuine microswiss will do the job very nicely.
2. A dryer that you can print from is ideal!
3. Oozing. And my general feeling that 90% is good enough! 😂
Nice testing and value information.
Glad you liked it!
interesting, except for PLA for all the other materials I never use the fan. I didn't.t get, did you change the nozzle or still using the stock one?
Hi, thanks for watching! I changed to some hardened steel nozzles from Amazon, I have put the link in the description (not an affiliate link). I haven’t done enough printing to test the longevity but they are working fine now...
Is carbon fiber content in nylon under or over 10% ?
Btw. very usefull video. Most of videos about cheap printers like Ender, is about simple PLA printing.
Thanks i just bought a glass bed and all metal nozzle and hotend i hope everything works
Did it work?
Thenk you so much my friend, you are the best of the best!
Love this. I need to make some new trumpets for my 51ida and the underhood of a rotary is HOT.
I can imagine, love a rotary screamer! I am hoping to get away with ASA for mine, air intake temp rarely goes higher than +10degC over ambient for me, and in the UK that normally means not that hot at all! 😂 You gonna use CF- nylon?
@@MakingforMotorsport Yeah CF nylon seems like the best option without going even crazier like PEEK. I'm scared to try but I wonder if the intake could be printed. I have a 20"³ build area. I need a new intake for semi peripheral ports.
@@Skater3z3b a lot of OEM manifolds are Glass fibre Nylon so it should be up to it, at least I hope it is, as I have a CF-Nylon printed manifold holding my ITBs to my engine at the moment! In 4 weeks I will have done an event and will be able to feedback, but extensive driveway testing is looking good... but an Weber IDA is a heavy piece of kit, if you plan for a metal bracket to take the weight and vibration etc then it might work... keep an eye on the channel, I will have a “how to 3D print a manifold” with all my mistakes soon!
Hi mate! I'm buying a 3D printer soon, since I saw your channel, I'm making high definition parts on Carbon fiber/nylon and other materials.
What 3D printer would you recommend to buy? Around 200-300€
Hope you can help me🙏🏻
New dryer boxes can be purchased for $39.00 or lower from creality
can you share cura abs and cf nylon profiles for ender 3 pro? which version of cura do you think is the best?
Hi MfM,
Looking to 3D Print a hose piece to allow a standard radiator from one car to work with another, it's something of a T-piece to have coolant feed into the turbo instead of just straight into the block.
Thinking of buying Polycarbonate or the Filament you used in this video, but leaving this comment to ask for your opinion with material as the T-Piece will be brought up to temp rather quick and with it being a pressurized I'm wondering if PC or what not would be up to it.
Great content anyway, think it's a fantastic niche that you've made and has endless possibility in my opinion.
Awesome video! So I'll just need to upgrade my extruder, and get a hardened tip? Or I need an upgraded hot end as well? Can't wait to do this with mine!!!
You need the hardened tip for anything with a Carbon fill, and the hot end for the high temperatures 👍.
@@MakingforMotorsport I've been practicing with PLA and getting used to printing in general, have watched allot of your videos👍🏼 this is dangerous😏😎.... So.... Much ... Fun....
Just found this video, don’t pay attention to my question on your other video👍🏼
Time to take another stab at this on my E3. I can get the same, or better, cosmetic results with nylon. I have serious layer adhesion problems though, really negates the strength benefit. I can easily pull the smoke stack and cabin off of the hull when using nylon.😢
Good shit, i love doing things on the cheap, you gained a sub from me
Good man! Welcome along!
Another great video and between this and the annealing vid, by far the most useful I’ve seen so far! I have a Creality CR10S Pro with micro Swiss hotend and I’ve been looking for a higher temp filament for a while. PETG has been my standard multi-use filament as the Amazon basics version is cheap and easy to get hold of, but I was disappointed by its lack of temp resistance! I was going to print a prototype custom air box for my modified (supercharged) Porsche 924, before reproducing it in aluminium, but with these temp levels, I can easily print a final version and save myself a lot of hassle and argon!! It will even look more OEM in plastic and not welded ally!! Huge thanks and great to see your journey and experiences! Subscribed!! 👍🏻
Update...just bought a 1kg roll of Sunlu CF-Nylon off Amazon Prime for £45 but with 15% discount code down to £39! Arrives tomorrow! Thanks again for the heads up!! 😁👍🏻
Thanks for the comments man and a supercharged 924 sounds like a lot of fun! But I’ve gotta head over to Amazon, heard there’s some cheap CF-Nylon to be had! 👍
Great video, thanks 👍
good work
Awesome video! Thanks! Does the mod to the hot end make the printer any less functional for basic PLA filament? I would love to make the mod but I'd like to be able to continue doing the basic kid stuff with PLA, too.
Great question… short answer yes. A low quality hot end will make PLA printing very stringy and/or prone to clogging (so much so I made a video about stopping clogging!) and even a high quality one like an E3D V6 (like the Prusa mk3) needs to be tuned well to work effectively, it can be done definitely but it’s a downside of going all metal which is rarely discussed!
@@MakingforMotorsport I've noticed that. Bought the same hotend you got but can't get it to print PLA without directly clogging on me. Tightening nozzle when hot, adjust retraction, tweaking temperatures, been there done that. Can't get it to work properly.
Did you do any special tweaking to get it to work?
Hi, can you please share your Cura profile for this filament with all retraction and etc. settings
I like your style.....cheap!
If the choice is cheap or not at all, I know what I am going with! Plus, it always feels a bit better to make rather than buy!
Don't you worry at all about VOC's or nano particles?
My question is after the print does the material still absorb moisture at the same rate. ...so if i have two interlocking pieces will they expand and not fit if left separate for an extended amount of time. Or will it be stuck assembled
Hi sir, just bought a roll of CF nylon. Do you have any experience how the printed parts behave to moisture? Was planning to make a relay box in the engine bay for a 4x4 but still worried as to some forum threads say that nylon reacts with water and can cause the part to go brittle.
Nylon is hygroscopic so it will pull in water from the Air, but this isn't submerged so it's not too bad, and it does changes it's properties slightly, and whilst I believe 3D prints are more suseptable to this that injection moulded, as long as you're not right on the edge it shouldn't affect it. It doesn't seem to affect all the rest of the Nylon I have in my life.....
You may want to redial your retraction distance. 2.5 mm is realistically too low. I'd suggest something around 4-5 mm.
Yeah, thanks for the comment, since I did this video I haven’t done a lot in this material but I plan it up it as you say but I don’t get much stringing so it works as a base setting.
The reason it was 2.5mm is I had bad clogging with this hot end on other materials with my standard 4mm (I did a vid on that), that said Nylon with the higher glass temp can probably stand it.
@@MakingforMotorsport If you don't get much stringing, then there's no need to change it as well :)
I just thought, that the "rough" bits on the right side of your benchy could be improved that way.
Incredibly interesting topic nontheless.
Yeah, it’s the blobbing that I am thinking about, I still get that. I get less with lower temps but I want the strength from the high temps... I guess things like this are never finished.... always something to improve and try!
Bruh I use 1mm retraction with a direct extruder.
@@FrozenByFire3 Great. He uses a bowden style though.
great video mate
Cheers bud! Glad you enjoyed it...
A friend linked me the video, I like this.
BUT! Do you have an STL to the feet for your e3pro?
I can’t put a link to outside of TH-cam or it’ll be deleted, BUT! If you search on Thingiverse for “Ender 3 squash” it’s the top option
I can’t put a link to outside of TH-cam or it’ll be deleted, BUT! If you search on Thingiverse for “Ender 3 squash” it’s the top option 👍
I don’t seem to be understanding why anyone would buy an overly expensive 3d printer when this one for cheap is doing the trick
Some people want to learn the process, want to learn the how, some people just want to press a button 🤷♂️
How did you make you filament dryer? I need one and the one yor show here looks perfect.
I got a 24litre storage box and made a little roller cradle and a little 5v fan housing to circulate air through the dessicant, it's the air movement through the dessicant that is key.... packets on their own work but it takes a looooong time!
So wait, should the temperature be 235 or 255?
Why does my ender fan remain on when I've changed it in my slicer? Am I missing something?
Dumb question, when you print a test tower temp like that does the file automatically raises temp on the slicer or?
You need to do it in the slicer
Sooper skookum! Someone watches AvE
Shouldn’t everyone?
New to 3D printing Any tips btw I'm now subbed to you
Thanks for the sub! My tip would be to practice as much as possible and if you have aims to make practical prints don’t spend a lot of time with PLA! There are plenty of materials out there!
Thank you
No cos its got a brass nozzle as soon as you change it to hardened nozzle its not standard anymore
I've had mine for 5 months and I've never printed a benche
Absolutely shocking!! I thought it was law! I have only printed a couple and I tend to learn with little from them, but it is a good all round test....
You can do it tho id be interested to see how long a brass nozzle lasts
Id imagine it would do a couple of prints at least
I'd imagine it'd definitely last a good few prints.... but I've just left the hardened one in now, they're the just the standard, although I do feel like you need a few extra degrees temp with them.
@@MakingforMotorsport yes you do need higher temp with steel
10-20°c if i recall
But that as a lot of things is machine dependent
At 7:08 the sample breaks between 245 and 250, you CAN'T get it to break between 230 and 235, and you say, we've got our temperature, 255? I'm missing the logic here.
Because the printing temp at the 230-235 level on model is actually 255, but with no fan (I repeat the temps with and without the fan), check out 5:42 for the idea….
I'm highly skeptical about carbon fiber filament. Carbon gets it's strength from it's long threads and chopped carbon kind of defeats it's purpose.
It’s nowhere near as strong as proper CF, or even injection moulded PA-GF, but the small fibres do a great job of resisting warping during printing and aren’t affected by heat so there is less of a drop off at elevated temps…
If you are expecting full blow CF… you ain’t getting it… mildly improved verses none CF filament… yes 👍
In my case cooling is required when printing the smokestack/Chimney, cooling fans at 15 to prevent melting, to be fair I use an enclosure and MatterHackers Nylonx
I am looking at getting an enclosure so I can bump up the temps, but I’d imagine it’s not too bad to cooling it with 50deg air... do you keep your electronics out of the enclosure?
@@MakingforMotorsportNo, the electronics are in the enclosure. I failed to mention that I use a Raise3D pro2 though I do have an ender 3( which is why I watched the video) I had not thought of keeping the electronics out. I imagine it would be beneficial. But then you could just duct air to the fans to save the hassle of removing the PSU and boards.
Where did you buy that filament? I'm trying to find it but no luck for now. Other brands seem to be way more expensive :(
Amazon mate, it was about £55... but it’s not cheap at all!
@@MakingforMotorsport is "not available" in amazon Spain, UK or US :/ It is not cheap but it's still cheaper than nylonx, colorfabb etc
@@alejandromunoz8086 I am keen to try the eSun or essentium HT-nylon, and that’s even more sxpensive
@@MakingforMotorsport i just found this eSun filament and I find it cheap enough, in case you are interested! www.powerplanetonline.com/en/filament-esun-1kg-epa-cf-nylon-carbon-fiber
That looks very similar to the Sainsmart ePA-CF... I will hold out for the high temp stuff 👍
Dose that make your oven smell / taste funky
Straight after yes… long term it’s not a problem…
i have been wondering, can you print low-temp nylon with the stock hotend? the manufacturer of the nylon i chose says the ideal temp for printing is 240-245, which the stock hotend can handle (i think). do you think it would be possible? with a proper V6 nozzle, obviously.
You can, and 240 is fine with a stock hot end, much above that and the PTFE will degrade giving off poisonous gases. I went all metal just to be safe.
@@MakingforMotorsport alright, gotcha. thanks!
HOLY SHEEEEEEEET!
I, too, bought a 3d printer, with the goal of adapting ITB's eventually... also involves a Mini! But this Mini will get a Honda D, not the A series... But I do have the Moke that will get A series and EFI.... Funny!
Great minds think alike! You’ve got quite the pair of classics there, you don’t see many Mokes about! Thanks for watching!
And I bought a Guider 2 last week and the same filament, different brand to make intake to ITB adaptors for my motorbike lol
@@1Beetlegeuse there’s been lots of people saying they plan to do it. Mine are on the car now, I am going to get a few more miles on them and then do a summary video with all the mistakes I made 👍. Good luck with your project!
Sounds like you're trying to film while everyone in your house is sleeping and you don't want to wake them
I have been printing since 2012 and still haven't printed a Benchy!
Get out..... ha, only joking, they are traditional but often they don’t relate to my type of printing so I rarely do them too, I think you learn more from different prints, xyz cube for example....
@@MakingforMotorsport every time I see someone print one I say to myself "Oh I must print one and see how my settings and calibrations fare" but never get around to it.
You have come this far, your only choice now is to NEVER print a Benchy!
intresting video and cannot wait to see that manifold.. Had a mini myself with a 1380 jenvey body and I loved screaming it to 8,500rpm :)
This is my first mini, the a-series is a perfect match but getting good power gets expensive! 8500rpm on a 3 bearing crank! Wow! I've got some small bits on the manifolds in the ITB videos but I'm gonna round everything up on them once the R&D is done and get all 3D geeky!
@@MakingforMotorsport yes it gets very expensive, that 1380 build did get right up there in cost.. I will go through the videos you have :)
to be honest if I do another mini Iwill prob go with a honda engine
Yeah the engine swaps are very effective in the Minis, but they never handle the same... mine certainly doesn’t, not bad but just not “mini”
@@MakingforMotorsport I know what you mean, the handling goes out the window..
A friend of mine back in the UK did the Honda swap back in the very early 90's and he said it was not the same after that
Where I can find this headphone holder? :)
What mods to an ender 3 would you recommend for printing with carbon based filaments?
The Carbon filaments really just need a hardened nozzle, CF-PLA for example, it’s more about the plastic, but everything to do CF-Nylon is in the video👍
can you print faster than 50mm/s ? i tend to print at 150 with abs and pla, just about to switch to this same material and was hoping to keep up the same speed?
I'd say it depends on the printer.... and your priorities. My Ender 3 is never gonna be a speed machine, and it's not a commercial enterprise so I don't mind waiting for a few hours longer....
@@MakingforMotorsport I've got 5 ender 3 v2 pros, so they have the upgraded parts on them, I have my own business making parts for cars, I 3d print all my products. I'm now using that sainsmart carbon nylon and its not going great so far, 0 successful prints due to bed adhesion, im using glass and glue like you said but it still warps
great video , making parts for an Ebike and using a stock ender 3 v2 with capricorn tube , will give this nylon CF a go ! also not interested in spending money on addons for printer and don't care what the parts look like.
If you are thinking about long prints then I’d reckon an all metal hot end, and a better one than I bought! Best of luck!
@@MakingforMotorsport going to try 3D BEST-Q Carbon-PC , people in the reviews say there getting away with 260C 0.5m nossal. will give it a shot and buy an all metal hotend if it crumbles under stress. Also thinking of using thin bolts through design to strengthen it up a bit like reinforced concrete !
@@BenBilesBB-box I am not even trying PC until I get an enclosure sorted out… but I am excited to try… let me know how you get on…
@@MakingforMotorsport PCFC 260C 100C bed in room 2x2 meter with extractor. capricorn tube XS aluminium extruder upgrade ( I doubt its needed ) was a success. really strong parts. I read PRILINE Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate is also the same as I'm using. 250c to 260c. I think I read somewhere Nylon CF has better layer adhesion and I think these PCFC filaments are a mix of PC and other stuff ( how they get the lower print temp ) either way , works well for me and no hot end upgrade. main reason I wanted to try was I think capricorn has less problem with jams and clogs. Saying that I'd love to test out Nylon CF eventually so will have to get an all metal hotend for that anyway one day.
Got acouple things first this isn't a stock printer so please don't say it is. And second why do you keep saying 255 was the temp when it was 235???
Yeah, the stock thing is abit of a stretch so sorry if I deceived you... where was the 235deg piece? I did the test at a range but I use 255 for this filament as a standard....
@@MakingforMotorsport He didn't actually absorb what you were saying and showing at the 5:39 mark - that you didn't follow the exact temperatures printed on the test piece. He thought you were following the 220, 225, 230, etc steps as printed on the actual model.
Aaahhh.... that makes a lot more sense now! Guess I could’ve been clearer... thanks for the translation!
How to install that nozzle?
That nozzle is not fit to cr10 hotend. Too long.
The nozzle is the correct thread and does work, but you're right they are meant for the V6 E3D hotend.
Hi! Could you please share your cura profile? Thanks
Did you get any fumes while printing , thanks
You get none for the Nylon, the CF-PA is the best printing filament I have ever had...
@@MakingforMotorsport I need to print a 3mm thick 1/10 RC buggy chassis...do you think is tough enough? It seems seller shop don't ship to UK, alternatives? Thanks
Its plenty strong but it’s not particularly stiff, so just a 3mm thick plate isn’t likely to be particularly stiff but that may not bother you. I got it on Amazon, it pops up every so often and can go off quick
@@MakingforMotorsport what should i look for on amazon? thanx
How can i print ASA on an ender 3 pro, i can't solve warping problems
ASA loves PEI beds, Kapton tape can do it but it’s not as good. 80degC on the bed, alcohol wipe before, wide brim and no drafts!
Can you use CF Nylon with a Anycubic viper?
No idea my man! I don’t have that printer…
i can design, weld and print but machining? wish i could.... wanting to get a bench top lathe but...
Same here... then I just thought, f*** it, and got one for the garage.... my wife was furious!!! 😂😂😂. I don’t think I have had my money out of it..... yet! 👍
why you dont use de cool fan?
Nylon is very prone to warping just like ABS, so on thin parts (or just early in prints) you want to avoid it, and if you can print without it then that’s ideal…
Anybody knows if PC filament printing is toxi for the airways?, I mean meanwhile the Ender is printing next to me, and I'm in my computer
Is the CF nylon filament fuel proof please?
I am finding that out at the moment, nylon generally is but to be sure I have a sample marinated in petrol now and we’ll see what a couple of weeks does to it!
I've been hesitant about trying CF-filament due to carbon fiber particles being about as dangerous as asbestos. I am no scientist but I have read multiple articles about 3d printing with CF releases airborne particles. Also, there are tests that show CF-filament not being stronger than other kinds of filaments. I use nylon, polycarbonate and sometimes ASA for my car parts. ASA emits unhealthy fumes so I use it sparingly as polycarbonate seems to have similar properties.
Audio is quite low. Except for the music where its too high.
Yeah, since this video, new microphone or two and upped my audio game!
This was great. Very informative. Thank you for posting. But for the love of God, please don't talk at a 3/10 and then play music at 10/10. So glad I wasn't wearing my headphones.
Why are you whispering? Is there someone sleeping in that room? :)
Ha! Not with the noise that printer makes! Note to self - more volume!! 👍
Damm good video Just subscribe Immediately
Damn good comment! Just pinned immediately!! 👍😄
@@MakingforMotorsport What size nozzle are you using I have the exact set up and I’m having horrible problems with clogging I am using Hardened steel 4 mm nozzle
I am using a 0.4mm nozzle, but I don’t think that’ll be your problem... things I do now...
1. Double check your nozzle is tight when hot, always do the final tighten when hot
2. I would do a small test print without retraction - if you still get clogging or the extruder skipping it’s likely you have too much flow and your e-steps need calibrating. Tune the flow down to prove this
3. If no retraction solves ur problem then you had the same issue as me so follow my steps and then slowly increase the setting.
4. Other things I did was remove the retention screws to help
Other people have suggested printing slower aswell as that will also slow the filament flow.
I solved it, so can you!!! Best of luck 👍
good vid. Subbed. 👋
Thanks! Looking forward to making some more!
There's nothing "almost stock" once you install an all metal hot end. The only way it could be less stock, would be to make it direct drive. Click bait.
Subscribed
Welcome along 👍
aaa at last. u got 1 sub from malaysia
Welcome to the team! Good to hear you enjoyed it and hope the info helps!
Are you recording overnight? You are wispering
Yeah... I got a new microphone fairly quickly after this video.. 😂 🤫
@@MakingforMotorsport haha cool 👍
Mic is too low
Yeah I proper messed up the sound on this one.... 😬😬😬
make sure you only show the good side
Absolutely! 😂👍
Let’s see you make a Glock pistol
Nvm found it haha!
I don’t think that the Ender 3 is the “best” printer for this material, something with an all metal hot end and higher temps as standard would be better an enclosure would be ideal... but that is probably a $800 printer.... (I buy cars for less than that 😂)
Why you whispering?