Never knew what the 15 meant. I know por stands for paint over rust, but never knew the 15 stood for the 15 steps you need to do before painting over the no longer rusty part.
Its a well intended video. Any commercially effective wax and grease remover followed by a phosphoric acid based metal prep will allow for a good POR-15 application. The POR-15 metal prep is phosphoric based of course, but I find it somewhat weak. Rust Kutter is the most effective phosphoric metal prep I have used. Thoroughly degreased and metal prepped, POR-15 is my go to choice for rust conversion coatings.
I brushed POR 15 onto a 1935 Ford fender and set it out in the 35 years ago. no UV protection so it turned dull and kinda chalky. Except for that the POR15 has been doing its job with no problems, Very impressive, I have done many many gas tanks with their sealer, again, an awesome product
Watched the Project Farm channel on rust converters / preventers. Convinced me to give this a try. Especially when he use the 2300 psi pressure washer and nothing came off the POR15 treated metal, but the other preventers lost at least some of the coating. Came here to make sure I use it correctly.
Heu Sam I just bought a brand new SUV but I'm in Chicago and they throw salt & God knows what else on the roads up here. Could I use the por 15 clear and brush it on my new car undercoat??
@@tonykari5124 A lot of body repair guys are now using cavity wax to protect repaired areas, and inside door bottoms to seal against moisture. It's inexpensive and very effective. I've used POR-15 products during two car restorations and it works very well for repaired areas, but there some applications where cavity wax makes more sense.
Works ok. Been in this field for a lifetime. It's costly and all these steps. Use Ospho from Ace hardware. Get rid of the oil and wax etc. Spray, brush whatever ospho On RUST. no cleaning of rust, no sanding, grinding etc. Just smack frame with a hammer to get chunks, if you have some, off. Use Ospho on it. Will do same thing. This lil kit with 4oz is how much? 30 bucks? A gallon of Ospho is less and will work better. Converts rust to a black hard coating that kills the rust forever. Buddy used this on his boats and never had any issues in Salt water and on vehicles in Michigan. This crap is alot of steps and alot of mess if it gets where u don't want it. Used Ospho on logging machinery, tractor trailers, Dozers, Cars trucks etc. If you want alot of work and spend alot get Por15, if you want fast easy use Ospho and implement paint or rustolieum, and cavity wax. Painted with Eastwood internal frame coating, outside with osphone then seam sealer then rusty black paint then cavity wax. Mineral pin all in panels at bottom and whatever you use for protection. 1 quart of any oil, 2 toilet gaskets and a tube of grease. Mix and heat until the proper consistency for your application use. Portsmouth is good for protection problem areas of a restoration when new, use Ospho when rust is already there. It needs to be rusty for it to work, do NOT clean to bare then use Ospho. Use rusty. Needs rust to interact with to change on a molecular level. Your welcome. Save all that blasting, sanding, grinding etc. If heavy rust may need a couple coats.
I worked in a restoration shop for 20 years and now build rock crawlers. I have used a lot of POR and It is a good product, but it has Its draw backs, sun fade and cost. I have found that 90% of the time rustoleum is a cheaper option that works very well.
I wanted something durable for a set of control arms. So they got 2 coats of por, and a coat of the tie coat primer. And then 2 brush coats of Rust-Oleum in the color I wanted. A light sanding ,and then 2 coats of Rust-Oleum spray paint to give it a gloss. And hopefully if it chips a little ,you'll see the red brushed on stuff. That was 10yrs ago on the summer car and it still looks great.
@@MrTheHillfolk meanwhile your prep with the meuriatic acid or more likely when you sanded the bare metal. You let in flash rust you couldnt even see. Now all these years they have been rusting in the inside trapped with all that moisture and most likely as strong as a wishbone.
@@krotchlickmeugh627 hahaha you simple simple little man. I just looked at when I did it, and it was 2012. And the other night I looked under there and they still look as fresh as the day I finished them. Probably shouldn't comment about things you don't know about unless you pose it as a question. How many drugs are you on, where did it say I used muriatic acid?
@@MrTheHillfolk lolol if you dodnt etch the base metal youre more stupid than i originally thought. You muppet. Of course your pfp is Beavis and butthead. You probably are easily entertained my mindless nonsense.
Good vid. Instructions also say to pour product into a separate container that you will be putting the brush in so you do not contaminate contents of can.
The title of the video is ironic because you didn't follow the directions correctly. 1. The degreaser should be diluted with hot water at a 4:1 ratio. 2. You didn't rinse the degreaser with water. 3. You didn't let it dry to "bone dry" after the degreaser rinse. 4. You dipped your brush in the can. Otherwise a great video. LOL
He most certainly DID say to wash and/or rinse it off. He also DID say to dry it or let it dry completely. YOU don't pay attention. ( Do YOU wanna sit through a video waiting on "something to dry completely"? ) I just recently bought the kit containing the 1 quart size, followed the directions, and did my entire truck frame with 2 thin coats, and still have about 40% of the can left over. Not a single run or brush mark anywhere, because it really is "self leveling". I live in a very hot & humid area, so it cured very quickly. Only in the small area of my 2 rear wheel wells is the frame exposed to sun early or late in the day, so after it cured, I did a quick spray of Rustoleum 2X. Turned out great. It's tough as nails and not even rocks flying up off the road can chip this stuff. I highly recommend POR-15 over anything else. TH-cam ch: "Project Farm" did a video where he tried at least 6 different products, and in every test result, the POR-15 out-performed all of the others, hands down........which is what convinced me to buy & use it.
Thanks for the kind words my friend, greatly appreciated. It's been about 11 months, since I applied it to my frame, and I'm happy to report not a single crack, blister, peeling, or chipping has occurred anywhere on my truck's frame yet.......and I drive an average of 60 miles a day, if not more ( much more in some cases ), due to work. I've heard occasional rocks, pebbles, or some other debris striking underneath my truck, yet every time I'm under there to grease u-joints or some other service/inspection, all still looks fine. This is on a 2000 Tacoma 4x4 that I bought brand new 23 yrs ago. @@OmarHernandez-pk5mp
WARNING ⚠️. Wear a Respirator , wrap around safety goggles and gloves when using this product ! I applied it to the undercarriage of my truck with a brush outside and afterwards I my eyes were burning and I had a headache and nausea for 3 days ! This stuff is potent and no joke ! Please follow any and all safety precautions as listed on the box / can !!
I only wore eye protection & gloves when doing my entire truck frame using this stuff. I didn't suffer anything from fumes, but I was in my open carport. This stuff really works. I highly recommend it.
If it gets on your skin and dries it is going to be there 5 days or more.....I found baby oil to be the kindest way to remove it before it dries and having the oil on your skin helps the next drip of POR15 come off better.
People make the mistake of using it for frames that have already been subject to harsh conditions and wonder why the frame rots out under the coating. It's only worth applying if you're starting from new when it comes to frames. I.e. before everything is assembled. You just can't get everything clean enough, or reach everywhere afterwards. Better off with lanolin-based products to stop frame rot. It creeps to where you can't reach with paint. (Surface shield, PFC, Woolwax, Fluidfilm, etc.)
You've got to KILL the rust. I've restored so many old cars, trucks, tractors, semis, machinery, antiques, etc. If you don't get rid of it these products do work but the repeated money, time and aggrivation will cost more than its worth. Use a long piece of all thread and small pieces of chain in a drill to knock the rough away in frame. If it's Swiss cheese just scrap or fix. use a good wax, oil cleaner and use acid based product. Or Eastwoods many frame products. Navy uses Ospho. I use it. It converts and leaves a hard black coating. Acid it tricky because if not using oil based primer or paint it's gotta be rewetted, rinsed well for these coatings to work well. Watch videos eastwood makes or others to get the idea. I've used a home made coating of 1 quart of any oil, 1 quart of trans fluid, 1 tube of grease and 1 or 2 toilet wax gaskets heated and mixed. Spray, brush etc to protect whatever you need. Rust has got to go. POR works on new metal well and blasted or clean metal. It's weakness is on corners where it's thin and the price and the prep work. Zinc based works well why Toyota cars from 90s that coating has not been damaged is rust free, Scotty Kilmer. Best thing is just layers of protection of clean or converted metal. Farm implement paint is great. That stuff makes sandblaster and coal slag work to remove. Blaster came out with a new wax type product that looks to be the best but not used yet. I know that any oily, greasy metal never rusts. The worst is undercoating. Seen cars with looks like great panels to look under it and metal is gone. Looks can be deceiving. Just like that lil rust bubble looks minor until you get it all clean to bare metal and it's grew 4 times starting size. Rust has got to be stopped or whatever you do is a waste of all.
Hello I'm new to using stuff for rust. I want use something to permanently stop rust under my car. What would you recommend ? Any tips will be greatly appreciated thanks.
@@NJRangerGeorge You and every person that owns a car! There is no permanent solution. Best bet is to re-read my comment above. They need to be applied every 1-2 years if you're in an area that uses salt/brine on roads in winter. Or if you live near the sea.
@@jasonchristopher2977 I looked into the ospho you recommended and am intrigued. My husband is rebuilding the frame on my 98 ranger and I'm treating to try to make sure it won't need to happen again. I was going to go with the whole por15 system but now I'm liking the ospho...what paint would you recommend over the top? Or any other recommendations greatly appreciated. The frame is going to end up about 60% aftermarket 40% original. I'm willing to pay for something that will definitely work, I just don't want to end up paying 4x the cost and end up with a basic rustolium treatment Many thanks!!
FYI, the cleaner degreaser is supposed to be diluted (instructions on the bottle say it), you don't put a spray top right over the concentrate bottle. You're also supposed to wear a respirator mask while applying it.
I like to soak a rag in the stuff, hold it tight to my nose & mouth, and huff it for 5 minutes straight............kidding......I'M JUST KIDDING......lol.
I just recently bought the kit containing 1 qt of the POR-15, and did my entire truck frame ( 2000 Tacoma 4x4. ) I can say right now to anyone claiming "this product failed" is simply because THEY FAILED TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS. When done properly, POR-15 can't be beat. It's practically bullet-proof. Rocks flying up off the road doesn't even phase this stuff. I live in a very hot, humid area, so mine cured very quickly. My truck frame turned out great. It leaves no brush marks because the product is "self leveling". Only in the area of my 2 rear wheel wells did I spray on a top-coat of Rustoleum 2X, because those are the only 2 areas where sunlight can hit my frame early & late in the day. The rest of the frame is never exposed to any sunlight. ANY "paint job" is ONLY AS GOOD AS THE PREP JOB BENEATH IT. Prep it correctly, and expect amazing results. I highly recommend POR-15 over anything else.
@@joesoika2628 Yes Sir! It's now been close to a year since I applied POR-15 to my truck's frame, and it's still holding up just fine. I check it periodically, and there's not a single area of bubbling, chipping, or flaking.
I can make a video like this because small simple pieces like that work well. The second step - zinc coating and rust converter - is a very nice product. I use it as a prep for lots of other coatings too. As far as the coating goes, commercial shops I work around don't like it - impossible to work with in real-world conditions. Hard to work with in humid environments here near the coast. Solvent pops are a problem even with thin coats. Have to use the can up quickly or solvent pops in the can before you even apply it. Have to use the open can quickly. Cannot reuse a partial can for a number of reasons. (partially cured, solvent pops, coating cements the can lid tighter than a metal crimp). Gallon cans are absolutely worthless. Most of it will cure before you get it out of the can. This demonstration did not show the can being opened - HA - the cans I open are absolutely ruined by the time I get them opened. You can transfer unused contents into a new can but it cures too quickly to use a second time - even with adding some POR 15 solvent to thin it out - doesn't stop the quick cure.
never open the can. put a self tapping screw in the lid and opposite that, a screw in the top of the sidewall. Also it will last for many years when you keep it in a refrigerator. I've never had any go bad. One time, I ordered a gallon and they sent me 4 quarts
Sounds like a money saving tip. Just to clarify you put a self tapper in the lid & another on the side of the tin & then when you need to use it you crack them both open & let the paint out - then screw them back in? Wouldn't that let oxygen in though? Not doubting just checking I've got it right 🖐️
The POR-15 is the best on the market for stopping rust. I've used it extensively, and will continue to use it . It is not without problems. There are several issues with handling the product that you should have addressed. I have found "work arounds" but they should be part of this video and additions to this "kit"
For proper use with applications you should never contaminate the jar with your brush, always pour the product into a separate container. The biggest issue with POR15 is that people take for granted how strong it is. In regards to top coating … That finger drag test is the point when you should apply you’re primer to the pieces you are working on prior to the flash . There is nothing that will etch itself onto the surface of the product properly ( maybe some newer self etching primers like a zinc self etch) but not without consequence, even after an abrasion except for their very own top coat etch primer that more than likely had a hint of the sealer in it to reactivate the surface. It’s great stuff for those who abide 🤙🏼
@@MitchsScooterStuff yeah man ,it works pretty good. Ya might have to wait and give the cloth a second coat to seal off any pinholes but it works pretty good.
You should also never use any electricity during curing time because the electrons will interfere with the protons unbalancing the curing connection destabilizing the final coat. So lights off or do it in natural sun light.
After watching this video I came away with the following conclusios: The name POR-15 is very dishonest. It is not a Paint Over Rust product. According to what I saw here any rust has to be completely removed to bare metal which is then treated with metal etch. Why the dishonest naming of the product. If the metal has to be cleaned to bare metal and also painted over to provide UV protection for the product it would be much better to just replace the POR-15 with epoxy primer.
It can be applied to both man this video he couldn’t find rusty metal to use so in the case that you’re painting on bare metal you do the steps in this video with the metal etch now if you want to paint over rust you don’t need the metal prep you just simply apply straight over the rust and I’ve done it so I know it works
The thing that sucks about this super expensive pot. Yeah it works well, but no uv protection. It. Should have uv protection for the price. Makes rust encapsulater a bargain. Good stuff and has if protection
Por15 works best on rusty surfaces (not loose rust). If the metal has a light rust before painting it becomes impenetrable when cured. Used on freshly sanded metal I have never had as good of results.
Indeed, if the prep work is done correctly (needle-scaler on thick rust/undercoat, drill w/wire brush, degrease, Metal Prep, two coats of POR-15) you'll always have great results.
I have used POR 15 several times over the last few years. IF you follow directions - this video is a good place to start - you should have excellent results. I used it to paint a bare trailer frame five years ago which has always been kept outside in pacific coast weather. Not a spec of rust yet. FOLLOW DIRECTIONS. IT WORKS!
You said wash it with water but you need to do show the whole process if ppl are doing it wrong, will the water and soap removed all the zinc coating off?
You are right Anthony left radiator support out in sun after following instructions , POR15 didn’t hold up. I used rust reformer in a spray can on fire wall same Vehicle held better and looks better by far then por15 .
Yes. But for its cost we shouldn't have to do exta painting on top of it. Eastwood product requires none of that. Just Wire brush loose rust, spray with a cleaner prep and then use product. Done. If you want to paint over fine but no need to.
I get the same results with some cheap phosphoric acid and then painting over it with cheap oil base, try for anything with rust inhibitor on the cheap. Works excellent 👍
I want to use Por15 to treat the rusty inside of my tractor gas tank. The only way to treat the inside surface is to pour the products through the opening. Means that its not possible to apply the two thin coats as recommended. Will this be a problem in terms of rust protection? Thanks.
go to advanced auto all they have is the product in the can, and i have yet to find anyone in the store that knows anything about a kit or a surface prep that could be part of the problem.
I have used this stuff, and what you're saying is impossible. Ya had to have missed something, trust me. THIS STUFF CANNOT BE EXPOSED TO SUNLIGHT. IF SO, YOU MUST USE A TOP-COAT OF ANY KIND OF PAINT USED FOR METAL. The paint only protects the POR-15 from UV rays. The POR-15 is what actually protects the metal, and is downright bullet proof. You can literally beat it with a hammer, or shoot it with a pellet gun, it will NOT chip. It works SO well........I wouldn't use anything else. Also: after degreasing & rinsing & letting dry thoroughly, when using the metal prep/etch, did you continue applying it so it stayed wet for 20 minutes? BECAUSE YOU HAVE TO. The metal prep has to keep being applied so that it can stay wet and etch the metal/rust. Then rinse that off & let dry thoroughly. THEN apply 2 thin coats of the POR-15. Remember, if it's exposed to sun, AFTER curing, you MUST apply any metal paint as a top-coat. I use Rustoleum 2X paint for the top-coat. You do that......and watch how tough & long lasting this stuff really is.
I'm not gonna lie, this stuff has held up pretty great for me considering how terrible my prep has been. It's expensive and rather picky but it has the best results if followed to the letter.
Youre going to trap the rust and make it worse. Itll look fine till you hit a speed bump one day and your galaxy frame splits in half. Held only by the driveshaft.
That test pipe looks like a galvanized pipe... Galvanized metal doesn't rust, so that was a bad choice for a test piece. Well, technically galvanized metal will rust, it just takes a long time. The galvanizing process itself IS a rust prevention chemical process. Although, it looks like your just using the pipe as more of an example of how to apply the product to a surface, so I guess it really doesn't matter.
This product works great when you follow ALL the steps. I will send you some before and after of a car I am working on Glen. BTW, I love your safety glasses haha
Not really. For years I would scrape off loose rust, wash and let dry. The 2 coats of rust converter. Next day 2 coats of por15. If exposed to sunlight I would next day add 2 coats of Rustoleum. Worked very well. Every year or two I would wash and let dry then add 2 more coats of por15. Next day 2 coats of Rustoleum on anything exposed to sunlight. I did that for about a dozen years. Never had any peeling and rarely any spots starting to rust again. Now I just Fluid Film everything. It's quicker and works very well. Anything exposed, like a bumper, gets Fluid Film reapplied every 4-6 months.
Ospho if rusty. Eastwood makes a product that's beaten this crap by a mile. Rust encapsulator Platinum. $50 quart and can be sprayed, rolled, brushed etc. Used it on a Log skidder that gets thrashed by rocks, stumps, mud etc daily. No rust. Wire brush loose rust, clean with prep and use product. A good idea is Ospho interally on inside of frame and their coating with a 360 degree nozzle. Works the best. Just my experience. My father's been in restoration since 78. Ospho is used on boats and ships all over the world. It's so much easier and cheaper and way less work and few rules to follow to get a good job out of it. Too many can't do for the price. Works great to protect places that get rusty easily, fender lips, quarter panels etc. I've used on new stuff and it was great but if sun gets to it, it fades and breaks down. All this is good stuff by have their uses. Por 15 is one of them. I used rustoleum, on top of Implement paint. It's a hard enamel that's used on farm machinery and dozers, etc. I've repainted a few and to get John Deere yellow or green sanded is a nightmare. That paint is as hard as diamonds. Even a quick respray to freshen up is a job sanding it to knock off the shiny so respray has a good base. Tough stuff.
It works best on bare and rusty metal, but not only am I doing both sides of the metal, I want either 92 percent zinc primer on the metal first or add zinc powder in, the negative ions are repelled in the rust, zinc is negatively charged too.
Same Here. Once you crack the can open, that stuff will bond the lid down. I used a Philips head screwdriver to poke two holes in the lid, then when done, screwed two bolts into the lid. Now I have 2 removable pour holes.
You don't tell people they need to use your top coat product AFTER using the POR15 and step program...I did all ur steps and it peeled after 2yrs off everything....was told I needed to use the topcoat after, but NOBODY informed or sales guy said it was neccessary or IT WILL PEEL OFF. My 87GMCSB IS UPSET.
About to use this in an engine bay. Can I sand the POR-15 after letting it fully dry before I apply primer to the bay? Or do I need to be ready to spray when the second coat is in the "finger drag" stage?
@ShortBusGameplays……if you read the instructions it explains the process. Wait until the por-15 is just slightly tacky (finger drag) and dust a very light coat of primer over the por-15. If you apply a heavy coat you are blocking off the humidity it needs to fully cure. After a day apply your wet coat primer, it will adhere to the dust coat. If you apply it over fully cured shiny por-15 it will peel off.
Looking at using this on the bottom inside door jams of my car, as they capture moisture. How long does it take to dry? As I'm probably going to have the leave the doors open for that.
Used por15 many times on frames and underbody. Absolutely love that product. Proper prep is the key, if you want it smooth then if coated on clean metal you need prep spray. If you don’t mind it rough a bit - just degrease and coat on layer of (not loose) rust - it loves it. And most important - fresh can for each coat, once you open it u have to use it - putting lid back on won’t save it, that’s why it comes in tiny cans.
Nah you can store it, what I do is I put ceran wrap or however you spell it over it tight with a rubber band around it, mash the lid down ontop of it making sure not to break it then clip on the lid and cover it with some other bag for extra protection, seems to store a decent amount
They said the one part engine paint, Pontiac Metallic Blue is possible to be used on the body of the car, I assume with por underneath. I wonder if it would look similar to regular paint, like with the basecoat and metallic with clearcoat.
Yes the instructions used to say around 2010 that rust gives it a good key and to paint it directly over rust. I think the video is to address this particular issue. A consistent theme is some people find it excellent, others don't.
If the frame isn't subjected to UV light you are fine. Top coating is a great option as well. Make sure to scuff before or you can apply at the finger drag stage as seen in the video. Thanks for the question.
They do make a tie coat primer so you can use normal paint. I've found a decent technique for stuff like frames. 2 coats of por,then a coat of tie coat primer. 2 coats of Rust-Oleum brush on , and then 2 coats of Rust-Oleum spray for a little gloss. Just gotta select a Rust-Oleum color that's available in brush on and spray.
I call bull shit, blasted parts, cleaned with brake clean on 80 deg. day. used clear rust came back in 6 mouths in spider vanes and keeps moving. parts never got wet. sitting a box in my shop.
I'm painting a pull-behind cattle trailer. It still has a lot of the original paint on it. How do you handle the prep when you have part paint and part rust? I've never used this product before. Can I spray it from a spray gun?
@@thetotalsalesguy9139 Thanks. It's too specialized for me. Just finished my first coat of Rustoleum primer today. I have decades of experience with it. Covered beautifully. Next coat tomorrow, then top coat. Thanks anyway.
That is the least rusty pipe I have ever seen. Where does the guy live?..on Pluto, where they don't have oxygen to rust your metal. Soon as I saw that I stopped the video, wrote a comment, clicked dislike and moved elsewhere.
Never knew what the 15 meant. I know por stands for paint over rust, but never knew the 15 stood for the 15 steps you need to do before painting over the no longer rusty part.
😂
so true lol, im looking into other products already LOL
Its a well intended video. Any commercially effective wax and grease remover followed by a phosphoric acid based metal prep will allow for a good POR-15 application. The POR-15 metal prep is phosphoric based of course, but I find it somewhat weak. Rust Kutter is the most effective phosphoric metal prep I have used. Thoroughly degreased and metal prepped, POR-15 is my go to choice for rust conversion coatings.
I brushed POR 15 onto a 1935 Ford fender and set it out in the 35 years ago. no UV protection so it turned dull and kinda chalky. Except for that the POR15 has been doing its job with no problems, Very impressive, I have done many many gas tanks with their sealer, again, an awesome product
Watched the Project Farm channel on rust converters / preventers. Convinced me to give this a try. Especially when he use the 2300 psi pressure washer and nothing came off the POR15 treated metal, but the other preventers lost at least some of the coating. Came here to make sure I use it correctly.
Heu Sam I just bought a brand new SUV but I'm in Chicago and they throw salt & God knows what else on the roads up here. Could I use the por 15 clear and brush it on my new car undercoat??
@@tonykari5124 Yes,and 3m makes a rust preventive spray to get into all the cracks and creases that you can't reach!
@@tonykari5124 A lot of body repair guys are now using cavity wax to protect repaired areas, and inside door bottoms to seal against moisture. It's inexpensive and very effective. I've used POR-15 products during two car restorations and it works very well for repaired areas, but there some applications where cavity wax makes more sense.
Hahaha I did the same thing!
Works ok. Been in this field for a lifetime. It's costly and all these steps. Use Ospho from Ace hardware. Get rid of the oil and wax etc. Spray, brush whatever ospho On RUST. no cleaning of rust, no sanding, grinding etc. Just smack frame with a hammer to get chunks, if you have some, off. Use Ospho on it. Will do same thing. This lil kit with 4oz is how much? 30 bucks? A gallon of Ospho is less and will work better. Converts rust to a black hard coating that kills the rust forever. Buddy used this on his boats and never had any issues in Salt water and on vehicles in Michigan. This crap is alot of steps and alot of mess if it gets where u don't want it. Used Ospho on logging machinery, tractor trailers, Dozers, Cars trucks etc. If you want alot of work and spend alot get Por15, if you want fast easy use Ospho and implement paint or rustolieum, and cavity wax. Painted with Eastwood internal frame coating, outside with osphone then seam sealer then rusty black paint then cavity wax. Mineral pin all in panels at bottom and whatever you use for protection. 1 quart of any oil, 2 toilet gaskets and a tube of grease. Mix and heat until the proper consistency for your application use. Portsmouth is good for protection problem areas of a restoration when new, use Ospho when rust is already there. It needs to be rusty for it to work, do NOT clean to bare then use Ospho. Use rusty. Needs rust to interact with to change on a molecular level. Your welcome. Save all that blasting, sanding, grinding etc. If heavy rust may need a couple coats.
I worked in a restoration shop for 20 years and now build rock crawlers. I have used a lot of POR and It is a good product, but it has Its draw backs, sun fade and cost. I have found that 90% of the time rustoleum is a cheaper option that works very well.
I wanted something durable for a set of control arms.
So they got 2 coats of por, and a coat of the tie coat primer.
And then 2 brush coats of Rust-Oleum in the color I wanted.
A light sanding ,and then 2 coats of Rust-Oleum spray paint to give it a gloss.
And hopefully if it chips a little ,you'll see the red brushed on stuff.
That was 10yrs ago on the summer car and it still looks great.
@@MrTheHillfolk meanwhile your prep with the meuriatic acid or more likely when you sanded the bare metal. You let in flash rust you couldnt even see.
Now all these years they have been rusting in the inside trapped with all that moisture and most likely as strong as a wishbone.
@@krotchlickmeugh627 hahaha you simple simple little man.
I just looked at when I did it, and it was 2012.
And the other night I looked under there and they still look as fresh as the day I finished them.
Probably shouldn't comment about things you don't know about unless you pose it as a question.
How many drugs are you on, where did it say I used muriatic acid?
@@MrTheHillfolk lolol if you dodnt etch the base metal youre more stupid than i originally thought.
You muppet.
Of course your pfp is Beavis and butthead.
You probably are easily entertained my mindless nonsense.
@@krotchlickmeugh627 rust needs oxygen, it is not a "cancer" that grows by istelf .
I used this product on two restorations 10-12 years ago and the application still works just fine. It's a good product line.
Good vid. Instructions also say to pour product into a separate container that you will be putting the brush in so you do not contaminate contents of can.
At least use a rusty piece of metal.
make your own instructional video then . Instead of crying like a baby even after he explained that this was all he could find . 😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢😢
Used on lighly brushed rusty metal by the sea and in a boat. After 10 years like new. Top paint but not for new clean metal.
In my experience, POR loves rough surfaces and will come off in sheets from smooth ones, even with the proper prep. Sandblasted metal is IDEAL.
I used it in conjunction with different rust preventers and oil grease removers and it worked just fine.
Like he said, it's all in the prep
I used just the POR-15 on my VW pan back in 2010. Didn’t do any prep work. Still looks amazing.
The title of the video is ironic because you didn't follow the directions correctly. 1. The degreaser should be diluted with hot water at a 4:1 ratio. 2. You didn't rinse the degreaser with water. 3. You didn't let it dry to "bone dry" after the degreaser rinse. 4. You dipped your brush in the can. Otherwise a great video. LOL
See how forgiving it is. Still works 💪
@@lpz3665 lol
He most certainly DID say to wash and/or rinse it off. He also DID say to dry it or let it dry completely. YOU don't pay attention. ( Do YOU wanna sit through a video waiting on "something to dry completely"? ) I just recently bought the kit containing the 1 quart size, followed the directions, and did my entire truck frame with 2 thin coats, and still have about 40% of the can left over. Not a single run or brush mark anywhere, because it really is "self leveling". I live in a very hot & humid area, so it cured very quickly. Only in the small area of my 2 rear wheel wells is the frame exposed to sun early or late in the day, so after it cured, I did a quick spray of Rustoleum 2X. Turned out great. It's tough as nails and not even rocks flying up off the road can chip this stuff. I highly recommend POR-15 over anything else. TH-cam ch: "Project Farm" did a video where he tried at least 6 different products, and in every test result, the POR-15 out-performed all of the others, hands down........which is what convinced me to buy & use it.
@@howabouthetruth2157
great review 🫡👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Thanks for the kind words my friend, greatly appreciated. It's been about 11 months, since I applied it to my frame, and I'm happy to report not a single crack, blister, peeling, or chipping has occurred anywhere on my truck's frame yet.......and I drive an average of 60 miles a day, if not more ( much more in some cases ), due to work. I've heard occasional rocks, pebbles, or some other debris striking underneath my truck, yet every time I'm under there to grease u-joints or some other service/inspection, all still looks fine. This is on a 2000 Tacoma 4x4 that I bought brand new 23 yrs ago. @@OmarHernandez-pk5mp
WARNING ⚠️. Wear a Respirator , wrap around safety goggles and gloves when using this product ! I applied it to the undercarriage of my truck with a brush outside and afterwards I my eyes were burning and I had a headache and nausea for 3 days ! This stuff is potent and no joke ! Please follow any and all safety precautions as listed on the box / can !!
I only wore eye protection & gloves when doing my entire truck frame using this stuff. I didn't suffer anything from fumes, but I was in my open carport. This stuff really works. I highly recommend it.
If it gets on your skin and dries it is going to be there 5 days or more.....I found baby oil to be the kindest way to remove it before it dries and having the oil on your skin helps the next drip of POR15 come off better.
People make the mistake of using it for frames that have already been subject to harsh conditions and wonder why the frame rots out under the coating. It's only worth applying if you're starting from new when it comes to frames. I.e. before everything is assembled. You just can't get everything clean enough, or reach everywhere afterwards. Better off with lanolin-based products to stop frame rot. It creeps to where you can't reach with paint. (Surface shield, PFC, Woolwax, Fluidfilm, etc.)
Ospho.
You've got to KILL the rust. I've restored so many old cars, trucks, tractors, semis, machinery, antiques, etc. If you don't get rid of it these products do work but the repeated money, time and aggrivation will cost more than its worth. Use a long piece of all thread and small pieces of chain in a drill to knock the rough away in frame. If it's Swiss cheese just scrap or fix. use a good wax, oil cleaner and use acid based product. Or Eastwoods many frame products. Navy uses Ospho. I use it. It converts and leaves a hard black coating. Acid it tricky because if not using oil based primer or paint it's gotta be rewetted, rinsed well for these coatings to work well. Watch videos eastwood makes or others to get the idea. I've used a home made coating of 1 quart of any oil, 1 quart of trans fluid, 1 tube of grease and 1 or 2 toilet wax gaskets heated and mixed. Spray, brush etc to protect whatever you need. Rust has got to go. POR works on new metal well and blasted or clean metal. It's weakness is on corners where it's thin and the price and the prep work. Zinc based works well why Toyota cars from 90s that coating has not been damaged is rust free, Scotty Kilmer. Best thing is just layers of protection of clean or converted metal. Farm implement paint is great. That stuff makes sandblaster and coal slag work to remove. Blaster came out with a new wax type product that looks to be the best but not used yet. I know that any oily, greasy metal never rusts. The worst is undercoating. Seen cars with looks like great panels to look under it and metal is gone. Looks can be deceiving. Just like that lil rust bubble looks minor until you get it all clean to bare metal and it's grew 4 times starting size. Rust has got to be stopped or whatever you do is a waste of all.
Hello I'm new to using stuff for rust. I want use something to permanently stop rust under my car. What would you recommend ? Any tips will be greatly appreciated thanks.
@@NJRangerGeorge You and every person that owns a car! There is no permanent solution. Best bet is to re-read my comment above. They need to be applied every 1-2 years if you're in an area that uses salt/brine on roads in winter. Or if you live near the sea.
@@jasonchristopher2977 I looked into the ospho you recommended and am intrigued. My husband is rebuilding the frame on my 98 ranger and I'm treating to try to make sure it won't need to happen again. I was going to go with the whole por15 system but now I'm liking the ospho...what paint would you recommend over the top? Or any other recommendations greatly appreciated. The frame is going to end up about 60% aftermarket 40% original. I'm willing to pay for something that will definitely work, I just don't want to end up paying 4x the cost and end up with a basic rustolium treatment
Many thanks!!
Um, he's treating a galvanized pipe!
I have a 1956 Cadillac that I want to protect and keep beautiful... Glad to know the right way!!
"im not going to let this guy sell me... who does he think he is thetotalsalesguy my ass" *watches whole video and buys gallon of POR15*
FYI, the cleaner degreaser is supposed to be diluted (instructions on the bottle say it), you don't put a spray top right over the concentrate bottle. You're also supposed to wear a respirator mask while applying it.
I like to soak a rag in the stuff, hold it tight to my nose & mouth, and huff it for 5 minutes straight............kidding......I'M JUST KIDDING......lol.
I just recently bought the kit containing 1 qt of the POR-15, and did my entire truck frame ( 2000 Tacoma 4x4. ) I can say right now to anyone claiming "this product failed" is simply because THEY FAILED TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS. When done properly, POR-15 can't be beat. It's practically bullet-proof. Rocks flying up off the road doesn't even phase this stuff. I live in a very hot, humid area, so mine cured very quickly. My truck frame turned out great. It leaves no brush marks because the product is "self leveling". Only in the area of my 2 rear wheel wells did I spray on a top-coat of Rustoleum 2X, because those are the only 2 areas where sunlight can hit my frame early & late in the day. The rest of the frame is never exposed to any sunlight. ANY "paint job" is ONLY AS GOOD AS THE PREP JOB BENEATH IT. Prep it correctly, and expect amazing results. I highly recommend POR-15 over anything else.
You hit the nail on the Head do what the directions says and you shouldn't have a bad day.
@@joesoika2628 Yes Sir! It's now been close to a year since I applied POR-15 to my truck's frame, and it's still holding up just fine. I check it periodically, and there's not a single area of bubbling, chipping, or flaking.
how did you get the por15 INSIDE the frame?
I can make a video like this because small simple pieces like that work well. The second step - zinc coating and rust converter - is a very nice product. I use it as a prep for lots of other coatings too. As far as the coating goes, commercial shops I work around don't like it - impossible to work with in real-world conditions. Hard to work with in humid environments here near the coast. Solvent pops are a problem even with thin coats. Have to use the can up quickly or solvent pops in the can before you even apply it. Have to use the open can quickly. Cannot reuse a partial can for a number of reasons. (partially cured, solvent pops, coating cements the can lid tighter than a metal crimp). Gallon cans are absolutely worthless. Most of it will cure before you get it out of the can. This demonstration did not show the can being opened - HA - the cans I open are absolutely ruined by the time I get them opened. You can transfer unused contents into a new can but it cures too quickly to use a second time - even with adding some POR 15 solvent to thin it out - doesn't stop the quick cure.
never open the can. put a self tapping screw in the lid and opposite that, a screw in the top of the sidewall. Also it will last for many years when you keep it in a refrigerator. I've never had any go bad. One time, I ordered a gallon and they sent me 4 quarts
Sounds like a money saving tip. Just to clarify you put a self tapper in the lid & another on the side of the tin & then when you need to use it you crack them both open & let the paint out - then screw them back in? Wouldn't that let oxygen in though? Not doubting just checking I've got it right 🖐️
@@andrewcheatle4691 Oxygen is NOT the issue. Water vapor is. HUMIDITY. The product is Monkey Glue based: it needs humidity to cure.
The POR-15 is the best on the market for stopping rust. I've used it extensively, and will continue to use it . It is not without problems. There are several issues with handling the product that you should have addressed. I have found "work arounds" but they should be part of this video and additions to this "kit"
Thanks :)
How much do you think it would take to do a whole lwb frame?
Care to explain?
Yes, please explain further. Thank you
What r the work around a?
For proper use with applications you should never contaminate the jar with your brush, always pour the product into a separate container.
The biggest issue with POR15 is that people take for granted how strong it is.
In regards to top coating …
That finger drag test is the point when you should apply you’re primer to the pieces you are working on prior to the flash .
There is nothing that will etch itself onto the surface of the product properly ( maybe some newer self etching primers like a zinc self etch) but not without consequence, even after an abrasion except for their very own top coat etch primer that more than likely had a hint of the sealer in it to reactivate the surface. It’s great stuff for those who abide 🤙🏼
Haha on some rust holes I had , I laid fiberglass cloth down and soaked it with por.
Works great and is like epoxy without the 2 parts.
@@MrTheHillfolk lmfao oh shit.
Youre a special kinda dumb aint ya.
@@MrTheHillfolk interesting I am gonna try that
@@MitchsScooterStuff yeah man ,it works pretty good.
Ya might have to wait and give the cloth a second coat to seal off any pinholes but it works pretty good.
You should also never use any electricity during curing time because the electrons will interfere with the protons unbalancing the curing connection destabilizing the final coat. So lights off or do it in natural sun light.
Yes reading instructions and prepping is needed in most quality results of these things and especially paint work...Foundation Foundation Foundation!
After watching this video I came away with the following conclusios: The name POR-15 is very dishonest. It is not a Paint Over Rust product. According to what I saw here any rust has to be completely removed to bare metal which is then treated with metal etch. Why the dishonest naming of the product. If the metal has to be cleaned to bare metal and also painted over to provide UV protection for the product it would be much better to just replace the POR-15 with epoxy primer.
I think that’s just a poor selection of sample metal.
Poor product. It has so many things you gotta do to get ok results. Eastwood has way better shit and it's been used for a long long time and proven.
It can be applied to both man this video he couldn’t find rusty metal to use so in the case that you’re painting on bare metal you do the steps in this video with the metal etch now if you want to paint over rust you don’t need the metal prep you just simply apply straight over the rust and I’ve done it so I know it works
The thing that sucks about this super expensive pot. Yeah it works well, but no uv protection. It. Should have uv protection for the price. Makes rust encapsulater a bargain. Good stuff and has if protection
Por15 works best on rusty surfaces (not loose rust). If the metal has a light rust before painting it becomes impenetrable when cured. Used on freshly sanded metal I have never had as good of results.
This is why all the prep takes longer than the application of sealer......if done by mfr directions, works great.
Indeed, if the prep work is done correctly (needle-scaler on thick rust/undercoat, drill w/wire brush, degrease, Metal Prep, two coats of POR-15) you'll always have great results.
I think it would hit closer to home had the pipe actually had rust on there.
yeah this was like demonstrating how to tie your shoes by just tying a knot in a string
I have used POR 15 several times over the last few years. IF you follow directions - this video is a good place to start - you should have excellent results. I used it to paint a bare trailer frame five years ago which has always been kept outside in pacific coast weather. Not a spec of rust yet. FOLLOW DIRECTIONS. IT WORKS!
S88s8s8s98s8i8i99s9s9q
Just did my entire truck frame with the larger kit containing 1 qt. I followed the directions to a T. This stuff really works......just as you said.
I was part of POR for their launch, I'm sure it's over not on.
You said wash it with water but you need to do show the whole process if ppl are doing it wrong, will the water and soap removed all the zinc coating off?
It works great if you follow The manufacturer directions first time I used it it worked perfect still looking good after five years
Manufacturer, "There is no UV protection from this product"….. Customer complains that Sun Fade is a draw back to this product….
You are right Anthony left radiator support out in sun after following instructions , POR15 didn’t hold up. I used rust reformer in a spray can on fire wall same Vehicle held better and looks better by far then por15 .
put a finish coat of something with a UV block ...........................................block head !
Yes. But for its cost we shouldn't have to do exta painting on top of it. Eastwood product requires none of that. Just Wire brush loose rust, spray with a cleaner prep and then use product. Done. If you want to paint over fine but no need to.
I get the same results with some cheap phosphoric acid and then painting over it with cheap oil base, try for anything with rust inhibitor on the cheap. Works excellent 👍
I want to use Por15 to treat the rusty inside of my tractor gas tank. The only way to treat the inside surface is to pour the products through the opening. Means that its not possible to apply the two thin coats as recommended. Will this be a problem in terms of rust protection?
Thanks.
go to advanced auto all they have is the product in the can, and i have yet to find anyone in the store that knows anything about a kit or a surface prep that could be part of the problem.
I was surprised that after properly prepping and painting some metal it showed rust coming through the paint :(
I have used this stuff, and what you're saying is impossible. Ya had to have missed something, trust me. THIS STUFF CANNOT BE EXPOSED TO SUNLIGHT. IF SO, YOU MUST USE A TOP-COAT OF ANY KIND OF PAINT USED FOR METAL. The paint only protects the POR-15 from UV rays. The POR-15 is what actually protects the metal, and is downright bullet proof. You can literally beat it with a hammer, or shoot it with a pellet gun, it will NOT chip. It works SO well........I wouldn't use anything else. Also: after degreasing & rinsing & letting dry thoroughly, when using the metal prep/etch, did you continue applying it so it stayed wet for 20 minutes? BECAUSE YOU HAVE TO. The metal prep has to keep being applied so that it can stay wet and etch the metal/rust. Then rinse that off & let dry thoroughly. THEN apply 2 thin coats of the POR-15. Remember, if it's exposed to sun, AFTER curing, you MUST apply any metal paint as a top-coat. I use Rustoleum 2X paint for the top-coat. You do that......and watch how tough & long lasting this stuff really is.
I always spray a two part 2K clear coat over it for UV protection.
Good call.
I'm not gonna lie, this stuff has held up pretty great for me considering how terrible my prep has been. It's expensive and rather picky but it has the best results if followed to the letter.
Great video, thanks for taking the time
I will be using this on my 59 galaxies frame. Watched the project farm test video and i was convinced that this is the one!
Youre going to trap the rust and make it worse.
Itll look fine till you hit a speed bump one day and your galaxy frame splits in half. Held only by the driveshaft.
Thank you! Back in the day when I was 15 and poor, using this product. Good times.. good times. Cheers
Are 2 coats necessary, or will I be good with 1 only. Thanks.
Can I do a metal prep using the rust-oleum rust disolver? Or does it need to POR specific metal prep products?
That test pipe looks like a galvanized pipe... Galvanized metal doesn't rust, so that was a bad choice for a test piece. Well, technically galvanized metal will rust, it just takes a long time. The galvanizing process itself IS a rust prevention chemical process. Although, it looks like your just using the pipe as more of an example of how to apply the product to a surface, so I guess it really doesn't matter.
You nailed it Daniel. It was only for demo/application purposes. Thanks.
@@thetotalsalesguy9139 dum
@@burtreynolds3143 You spelled DUMB wrong, 🤫but thanks for the comment.
@@thetotalsalesguy9139dum
You have a good video, yet miss one important step, when you open the sealer, you have to stir it up (do not shake) to activate it, before using.
Aren't you concerned with staining your work table? Just my OCD self asking.
POR15 works just fine by itself. obviously the surface must be clean with no loose rust.
This product works great when you follow ALL the steps. I will send you some before and after of a car I am working on Glen. BTW, I love your safety glasses haha
lol. Nice catch. Please send the photos. I like to see.
How has it worked out?
Fun fact. Dip your friends car key in POR 15 and he’ll have to buy an entire ignition switch to fix his car.
Holy Cow! Fun friends. lol
What is the Ambient, Parts and POR-15 use temperature range. Thank You.
Is it okay to strip the rust to bare metal before applying it? Or the rust is needed for the best contact?
Great question... with the 3-step process, it will adhere to the metallic surfaces. Rust and Metal.
Not really. For years I would scrape off loose rust, wash and let dry. The 2 coats of rust converter. Next day 2 coats of por15. If exposed to sunlight I would next day add 2 coats of Rustoleum. Worked very well. Every year or two I would wash and let dry then add 2 more coats of por15. Next day 2 coats of Rustoleum on anything exposed to sunlight. I did that for about a dozen years. Never had any peeling and rarely any spots starting to rust again. Now I just Fluid Film everything. It's quicker and works very well. Anything exposed, like a bumper, gets Fluid Film reapplied every 4-6 months.
Can u coat aluminum? I like the hardness of the products
Yes, make sure to stick to the 1-2-3 system
Why didn't you use the cheap gloves provided in the kit? ;)
I missed it. I think you said thinner is better…?
By following these step how can it be considered rust preventative you are removing the rust before use?
About to start using this on the frame of my shuttle bus/rv conversion. Thank you for the informative step by step video!
Youre just going to trap the rust in and make it worse.
@@krotchlickmeugh627 Thanks for your opinion, but no, it won't.
Ospho if rusty. Eastwood makes a product that's beaten this crap by a mile. Rust encapsulator Platinum. $50 quart and can be sprayed, rolled, brushed etc. Used it on a Log skidder that gets thrashed by rocks, stumps, mud etc daily. No rust. Wire brush loose rust, clean with prep and use product. A good idea is Ospho interally on inside of frame and their coating with a 360 degree nozzle. Works the best. Just my experience. My father's been in restoration since 78. Ospho is used on boats and ships all over the world. It's so much easier and cheaper and way less work and few rules to follow to get a good job out of it. Too many can't do for the price. Works great to protect places that get rusty easily, fender lips, quarter panels etc. I've used on new stuff and it was great but if sun gets to it, it fades and breaks down. All this is good stuff by have their uses. Por 15 is one of them. I used rustoleum, on top of Implement paint. It's a hard enamel that's used on farm machinery and dozers, etc. I've repainted a few and to get John Deere yellow or green sanded is a nightmare. That paint is as hard as diamonds. Even a quick respray to freshen up is a job sanding it to knock off the shiny so respray has a good base. Tough stuff.
It works best on bare and rusty metal, but not only am I doing both sides of the metal, I want either 92 percent zinc primer on the metal first or add zinc powder in, the negative ions are repelled in the rust, zinc is negatively charged too.
I’ve had a lot of problems with it bubbling up. I make sure to brush very thin coats but under some conditions it will still bubble up
I've been using POR 15 for years on its own and never have had any issues.
Same here.
Same Here. Once you crack the can open, that stuff will bond the lid down. I used a Philips head screwdriver to poke two holes in the lid, then when done, screwed two bolts into the lid. Now I have 2 removable pour holes.
Can the kit be applied over chrome? I'd like to do the chrome bed rails on my truck.
Couldn't find a rusty pipe ... 'nuff said 😃
For real. I was thinking exactly same thing. Breakyard, neighbour backyard, shop area, construction yard, the list is endless. Really put me off
Can it be applied over paint also.
Can I paint over it? If so, do I sand it, primer then paint?
Can you match the color of the car?
Any particular soad to wash it with ???
You don't tell people they need to use your top coat product AFTER using the POR15 and step program...I did all ur steps and it peeled after 2yrs off everything....was told I needed to use the topcoat after, but NOBODY informed or sales guy said it was neccessary or IT WILL PEEL OFF.
My 87GMCSB IS UPSET.
About to use this in an engine bay. Can I sand the POR-15 after letting it fully dry before I apply primer to the bay? Or do I need to be ready to spray when the second coat is in the "finger drag" stage?
I think it's best at finger drag state
@ShortBusGameplays……if you read the instructions it explains the process. Wait until the por-15 is just slightly tacky (finger drag) and dust a very light coat of primer over the por-15. If you apply a heavy coat you are blocking off the humidity it needs to fully cure. After a day apply your wet coat primer, it will adhere to the dust coat. If you apply it over fully cured shiny por-15 it will peel off.
Looking at using this on the bottom inside door jams of my car, as they capture moisture. How long does it take to dry? As I'm probably going to have the leave the doors open for that.
Does the black color works better than the clear ones?
Used por15 many times on frames and underbody. Absolutely love that product.
Proper prep is the key, if you want it smooth then if coated on clean metal you need prep spray. If you don’t mind it rough a bit - just degrease and coat on layer of (not loose) rust - it loves it.
And most important - fresh can for each coat, once you open it u have to use it - putting lid back on won’t save it, that’s why it comes in tiny cans.
Nah you can store it, what I do is I put ceran wrap or however you spell it over it tight with a rubber band around it, mash the lid down ontop of it making sure not to break it then clip on the lid and cover it with some other bag for extra protection, seems to store a decent amount
They said the one part engine paint, Pontiac Metallic Blue is possible to be used on the body of the car, I assume with por underneath. I wonder if it would look similar to regular paint, like with the basecoat and metallic with clearcoat.
Should you sand the old coating off if it’s spotty?
POR stands for... Paint Over Rust. Thats what I do and never a failure.
or blast the panel. I'm restoring an M416 trailer and i'm blasting it at my work. Won't have issues then
I can tell you one thing I fades out real bad
It needs to be top-coated. It has no UV protection.
Can por15 be applied over paint?
So is creating an anchor profile during surface preparation not a best practice for POR 15?
So you don’t paint over rust. But over zinc. POZ 15
Listen on 12x speed for normal viewing
The name needs to be changed. When it first came out no prep was needed, indeed it was paint over rust. What happened?
Yes the instructions used to say around 2010 that rust gives it a good key and to paint it directly over rust. I think the video is to address this particular issue. A consistent theme is some people find it excellent, others don't.
As with any product you have to do it right to get a top result. Thanks.
can a sprayer / air compressor be used to apply this?
no! dont breathe it
That pipe looks rust free on the outside because it looks like it has been plated or galvanized.
Best product on the market!
Really? You couldn't find a rusty piece of metal...so you get a galvanized pipe ! ! ! JEEZE ! ! !
mine didnt delaminate, it rusted through on the horizontal surfaces
How long do I have to wait after using the rust preventative before putting on the POR15 top coat? 24 hours, finger drag test, etc?
Yes, Finger drag test. Once dry, you must sand.
Great video thsnk you
So you make a video about a rust product but cannot find any rusty metal? Absurd.
I plan on using this for my frame on my truck. do I need a top coat? or could I use a clear coat? both from a rattle can?
If the frame isn't subjected to UV light you are fine. Top coating is a great option as well. Make sure to scuff before or you can apply at the finger drag stage as seen in the video. Thanks for the question.
You could coat the frame with undercarriage fluid, RP-342 works really well and dries up too, doesn't attract dirt/salt
They do make a tie coat primer so you can use normal paint.
I've found a decent technique for stuff like frames.
2 coats of por,then a coat of tie coat primer.
2 coats of Rust-Oleum brush on , and then 2 coats of Rust-Oleum spray for a little gloss.
Just gotta select a Rust-Oleum color that's available in brush on and spray.
Does this work on non-meta or pre-painted surfaces?
Very helpful, thanks
can I use the fuel tank por15 on the outside for a small seam leak? I really don't want to do inside a 55 gallon tank
yes, I have done that
I call bull shit, blasted parts, cleaned with brake clean on 80 deg. day. used clear rust came back in 6 mouths in spider vanes and keeps moving. parts never got wet. sitting a box in my shop.
I'm painting a pull-behind cattle trailer. It still has a lot of the original paint on it. How do you handle the prep when you have part paint and part rust? I've never used this product before. Can I spray it from a spray gun?
It will only adhere to metal. I've have heard of people using a spray gun, just be cautious of runs. It will solvent pop.
@@thetotalsalesguy9139 Thanks. It's too specialized for me. Just finished my first coat of Rustoleum primer today. I have decades of experience with it. Covered beautifully. Next coat tomorrow, then top coat. Thanks anyway.
its a difficult product to use, you really have to follow those steps. When you do it does work great though.
How ironic that he 'found' a piece of galvanized pipe to treat. You can bet that won't rust. ;-)
that p*ssy doesn't have anything rusty cause he is a SallyBoy. He even borrowed that pipe from his boyfriend.
That is the least rusty pipe I have ever seen. Where does the guy live?..on Pluto, where they don't have oxygen to rust your metal. Soon as I saw that I stopped the video, wrote a comment, clicked dislike and moved elsewhere.
Everyone in the world.
Step 1. Find rusty metal
Step 2. Film Tutorial on how to use product.
This Guy
Step 1. Admit he couldn't find any rusty metal