Nice to see that Jay takes his time to help these small companies with promotion of their American made products. This is why Jay is successful. He never forgot where he come from, and has a passion for what he does. Thanks Jay
MrKeyboardCommando Hahahaha No thank you, I'll stay in Texas, the Gulf Coast Area! Davey Crockett said it best... "You may all go to hell, I'm going to Texas!"
FANTASTIC stuff, I've been using it for years, and just yesterday on my Dodge. Accept no substitute, because there is none. But one word of caution: Use nitrile gloves, available cheap at Harbor Freight and elsewhere. Because POR 15 is impervious to all solvents, if it dries on your hands, the ONLY thing that will take it off is TIME. When resealing the can, put a sheet of plastic food wrap between the can and the lid, then tap it down because if the product dries the two together, you'll destroy the can getting the lid off the next time.
I've used this stuff on my 1995 Mercedes which was developing a small rust spot near one of the rear wheel wells. I followed the instructions and the stuff worked great. Dries rock-hard too. I put a spot of touch-up paint over the repair and it's virtually impossible to see unless you're really looking closely. After about two years no sign of the rust returning at all.
I had a rusty railing on my house so I knocked off the loose rust with a wire brush then painted with POR15, finally painted with black paint. It's been 5 years and it still looks great and I'm in the NE not in SolCal, it snows here. Stuff works great, just a little expensive but worth it
I first used this product 22 yrs ago to repair rusty water cooling towers. A word of Warning! DO NOT get any on your skin! If you do ,wipe off immediately! I got some of the silver product on my forearm,and the moisture on my skin caused it to cure. The only way I got it off,was to scrape it off and it took a lot skin with it! Read and follow instructions. If you top coat with paint, apply paint while product is "tacky" or It will dry hard and paint will not adhere. Then you will have to sand. A great product!
the instructions now say if you get it on your skin it will be there for a few days until the oils in you skin flake it off. I got a little on my arm and there was still some residue when I "wiped it off immediately" . A few day later and it was gone.
This is true... Truth be known I respect the very fact that this person has correctly used the word -their- in a sentence! But honestly... That’s good info. to know
I had really good results with the fuel tank kit, but it completely phosphates the rust right off with a prep solution before the coating goes on its not like por 15 I don't think.
I have used this and Rust Bullet and the latter is a much better product. The POR products require a lot of preparation prior to the coating. You can apply Rust Bullet directly with minimal prep. I have panels that were rusty with Rust Bullet painted over for the last 14 years outdoors rain or shine and no issues!
I used POR 15 when I was in Auto Body back in high school. This stuff works amazingly. My teacher deminstrated how good it is buy taking a piece of cloth and coating it with POR15 and the next day we could drill and tap into that piece of cloth. this stuff is awesome
3:04 Re: plastic bed line - I've had one in my '08 F250 since new and the bed still looks factory fresh. And it's been loaded with just about everything!
Been using por15 for years. I don't follow all the steps. Wirebrush and sandpaper loose rust then quick scrub with a brillo pad. Wipe down with wet cloth or rinse thoroughly. Let dry then use a couple coats of permatex rust treatment. Let dry and add a couple coats of por15. Haven't had any trouble with por15 sticking to treated areas. Follow up with top coat of rustoleum. Has worked very well for me with no problems.
***** i own a few datsuns and therefore use por15 all the time and I can tell you that it definitely can be used over rust directly with no prep as long as there is no oils on it. por15 works by mechanical adhesion so a rough rusty surface is perfect for it, but when oil is embedded in the pores of the metal it gets in the way of that. its not Paint Over Oil. This makes it not so good for the underside of a car unless you degrease it really well. It's not strictly an automotive product however and works great at encapsulating rust to stop it.
bluestripes1 Ditto on my '72 Charger. Had some places I could not get the rust out of short of dipping or blasting the car. Used POR15 six years ago, still no bubbling or problems.
It can not protect the material if it never comes in contact with it. That is why the removal of as much rust as possible is advised. You would have to lack all common sense to try and paint over flaky rust and expect it to work optimally. I have used this stuff and its the best, but expensive.
Great product, even though, a little pricey...Well worth it, applied to some rust spots on the door of my Datsun 280zx. Not only has the rust never returned, but the repair is undetectable. Awesome stuff.
Used the gas tank liner and it worked very well. Did not use any prep materials just stuff I had at my house. Make sure to be patient and let it cure fully.
Por-15 tank sealer is some good stuff..... when I make a custom fiberglass gas tank for a custom car, truck, boat, plane or motorcycle, I use POR-15 tank sealer....... Just be sure to let it sit in a warm place so it can cure...... We've had ZERO issues so far using POR-15. If you cant find POR-15 and you need something right away to seal or re-line the inside of a repaired, rusty or new fiberglass tank, you can buy another GREAT product called RED KOTE ....You use it the same way as POR-15....... 100 uses for this stuff!
I agree about the Red Kote Mr. Roach. The POR-15 paint is another story. The stuff lifts off in sheets even with a great prep job. I liken it to snake oil... For the underside of a car, it's cheaper and better to use a 2 part epoxy paint or 2 part urethane. The POR-15 has no hardeners. That alone says a lot. I suspect it's a totally different situation on your fiberglass parts. It would be fun to do some side by side experiments.
Hi Greg, I cant speak for any other products made by POR-15 other then the tank sealer, If done right, ITS Good Stuff with Red Kote coming in a close second. As far as the OTHER POR-15 products go, I have no clue and cant honestly agree or disagree with any positive or negative statements made by anyone. HOWEVER...... Knowing You As I Do, Your Quality of Work, Your Kind & Gentle Nature, Your Genuine Honest Personality etc..etc.... If You Say There Is A Problem With The POR-15 Paint, Then I'm 100% Sure There Is A Problem With The Paint!!!!! .... No Doubt In My Mind! ! ! ! ! Greg, if you're interested in doing some side by side products testing? ..... By all means, Lets Do Some Side By Side Test........ Knowing JAY and The Big Dogs In His Garage As I Do, I'm 100% Sure that JAY and the World Class Mechanics and Fabricators in the Big Dog Garage will promote & use anything that we come up with. I'm Ready To Hear Any Ideas
Greg's Garage If You can work with epoxy and urethane- no point even purchase POR-15. For me it works, because I'm lazy and just want to get some spots where I don't really want to work on, but able to reach from laying down in the driveway position
ummmmm I think thats a NEW label to keep them out of trouble just in case, I have to quarts here from 2009 and there is no such info on the cans....even some fuel cells for race gas says the same thing now.
In my experience with it you just need to remove the big flaky stuff degrease it and the phosphoric acid helps it stick to unrusty metal. So yes you can brush it over rust. My dad and I have used it for years and thats all we do.We've never had the rust come back. You can literally hit it with a hammer and the metal will bend but the POR 15 doesn't break.
Great stuff, I coated the floor boards top and bottom of my 41 Lincoln 6 years ago and it eliminated the further rust spread. I used their acid etch prior to coating, fast and easy and it works.
I used the POR-15 fuel-tank repair kit on my '68 Ford Galaxie 500 convertible, and it worked perfectly for me. I did the sealer on the inside of the tank, and the paint on the outside of the tank. It looks like a brand-new tank. You just have to make sure to follow ALL the instructions -- and take your time. This is not a quick process.
Thanks Jay! First product I've seen you feature that I've used too. This stuff is AWESOME! I used it on my '72 Charger about 6 years ago and full prep or minimal prep (degreased, could not remove rust) it is still working! Only problem spots are because of a tarp that rubs off any product over time.
I've used this stuff in the past and it works as advertised. It's the best stuff on the market as far as I'm concerned. Of course there is prep for it to work properly but if you did the same with paint, rust will return where this will stop it permanently.
I am familiar with POR15 and have used it and it does work very well. The phosphoric acid treatment neutralizes the rust and the paint coating is amazingly strong! Car guys who live is high rust areas: just put in a small order and try it out, you'll love it. Promise. I painted some old rusty weights and have been clunking them around and the paint has held for about five years so far.
Totally agree. I've used it on the frames of a Jeep and a F100 and its brilliant and looks incredible. Dominion Sure Seal makes a knockoff product Called DOM16 which costs less too. Its easy to get carried away, It made me want to paint everything.
I used their 3 part system in my motorcycle gas tank after it got completely full of rust... It worked better than imagined cleaning and coating the inside of my gas tank and leaving it rust free for the next 5 years until I sold it. Also, I don't think they made it to clear in the video, but I don't believe the motorcycle tank version is the same as the original por 15, which is why it shouldn't flake off if prepped right... it's silver instead of black and I have a feeling it's thicker. And that metal prep is damn good stuff for anyone wanting to remove rust from metal. Just my two cents for anyone looking.
Good stuff, we saved a lot of carberators that had sever corrosin by sealing them with this, even coated a few floats that were no longer availble, readjust for added weight and good to go
I used it about 10 years ago to "anti-rust" the frame on my '59 Willys Wagon. It's still clean with no rust. I used it last Spring to seal the gas tank on my RotorTiller. I'll see how it is in a couple of months.
@@peteschifferle1594 Fluid Film. It's a spray-on lanolin product, usually in an aerosol can. Sold at the right stores or on amazon. It's not a paint, though.
i have use this a lot, the paint is outstanding , I have used it on frames, bottom of cars, trk, inter fenders wells , I have spilled it on my paints and had the paints wear out around the paint,,,, I used this stuff 25 yrs ago and it stand up, never had a redo with it,, money well spent
If you paint a piece of sandpaper, it is then colored sandpaper. Of course the better the prep the better the paint job. I used this product (better have a good understanding that the overspray from this product is toxic DO NOT BREATHE OR LET IT OTHERWISE GET IN YOUR SKIN OR EYES) and after 13 yrs. (so far) on my sandblasted 70's corvette frame, suspension arms, drive shaft, brake calipers, etc...still looks like new. I also agree that top coating is best done after a brief flash period of the product as you would do successive coats of enamel paint. I used the remainder of the paint in my paint gun cup to coat a unprepped cast iron table base for an outdoor table, didn't bother to top coat and sits in the weather ever since. It got dull from the sun and weather but is still holding up. A small amount of flash rust is always present in pitted metal but the product is made to encapsulate the metal. Its the best product I've used for old metal. Probably next best thing to powder coat or dipping for new metal for a DYI.
The problem with coatings like POR15 is that if there is ANY shortcoming in the surface preparation, it will not bond properly leading to a real problem. This can be a disaster if the previous owner applied it without any real surface prep.
i like this guy, he wasnt trying to sell his product at all....he was just beeing cool and talking about it.....only god knows if its all true or if this video is scam.
He was being cool and talking about it. That's selling it. I'd trust a guy like this more than I would some uppy salesman. He's just calmly showing what the it can do. He's letting the product sell itself
I know a rally racer who stated POR-15 on suspension components withstands blasting of rock, gravel and dirt better than Power Coat paint. POR-15 is tough.
OK, I put some on the rear differential "pumpkin" plate of a car which was real crusty. I had to knock off a bunch of loose metal first, then prep it and after I dried it with a heat gun (it needs to be dry to paint) I put it on; it looks so much smoother than it did. It hasn't been ten days yet since I did it, I'm not going to wait until winter starts to coat the rest of the car.
This video was posted 6 years ago. Do you still use this product, especially on motorcycle gas tanks, or during this time you found a better alternative? Thank you.
I used a quart of POR15 back in the 90’s & I didn’t feel that it lived up to the advertised promise; with that said, I admit that maybe I wasn’t thorough enough on prep; you can never be too diligent. There are so many products available today, it’s hard to know what works best for guys like us, building stuff in our garage & driveway. Rustoleum is cheap, it’s available everywhere, it looks decent & it’s pretty forgiving unless you want show car quality & that’s just not in the cards for the way I live...
Have used Hirsch "Miricle paint" with good results,, description sounds like the same stuff, but they don't try to sell you all the prep chemicals and brushes etc in a more expensive kit form as I have seen POR 15 do at the swap meets.
Thanks, I may try it. I was going to just oil the bottom of my Suburban before winter which I heard works too, and now I have this to think about and maybe use.
Just watched the projects in progress, leave the Mercedes original. I saw a '65 or newer Corvair on a lift, have you "shown" this one? I own a '65 four carb Corsa & you do a great job telling special insights. Thanks from an "old phart".
I don't understand why vehicle companies don't come up with a paint that will protect there cars and trucks from rusting. I know Ferrari dips their car frames in a liquid that actually prevent the vehicles from rusting. I'm pretty sure other automotive companies can do the same.
Most do have this process. Its called E- Coating. Most manufacturers do this. The Cars and parts get dipped. When a panel is scratched or damaged the bare metal is exposed and the rust takes over like cancer.
They do. Its called galvanizing. Modern sheet metal is double galvanized, meaning there is a zinc coating applied to both sides of the metal before paint. If the zinc coating is compromised however, that is where the rust will start first.
Fluid film ! Its a lanolin based product you can spray or brush it on and a product i haven't tried yet, NH OIL... oh...i saw your Pantera video ! Awesome, but if its narrow inside like a 911, my shoulders are too broad to shut the door unless i scrunch up, then they get sore and i was wondering if air got under the front at high speed and lift the car up,my 69 vette would actually be forced lower due to aero dynamics around 95-100 mph and handled great at speed.
A way I killed rust: 🚲 I had a rusty bike... I knew someone who was a mechanic, I went to his garage... and took the bike apart into a few smaller pieces And dipped them in a large drum of Coca-Cola and it came right off! And it preserved the paint... if Coca-Cola takes off rest like THAT! imagine what it does when you drink it... yum!
The premium pricing on these products, should tell you something. The products need to perform to a standard, and be not difficult to apply. So the products must work! In Australia we pay almost twice the price and the products are widely available through their suppliers.
I brought this product followed the instructions to the letter and the rust spots came back. Tried it again in the same area following instructions again. Rust came back on my white car in the same area i just treated twice. Stuff is crap!
Having read so much about this paint, I thought I would try it. My test is challenging for any paint - rust-proofing the underside of a lawn mower deck. What I did: after removing any loose rust, I applied two coats of this paint and allowed several days to dry before running the mower. I ran the mower for one grass cutting session - about an hour of continuous use, then inspected the painted surface. The results: this paint tends to peel off in sheets (as others have found) and bonds significantly less well than a conventional wax-based car underseal (which I normally use). A couple of things to note: - I did not use the recommended two stage preparation process. I will therefore try this next and report back on results. - the exceptional high cost - especially if the preparation stages are used. My conclusion: this paint, when used alone, ie without costly surface preparation, is ineffective for rust protecting in high impact areas, particularly when applied to pre-painted or non-rusted surfaces - where bonding is particularly poor.
Try OSPHO. There are other similar products out there that are just Phosphoric acid. This company sells so much commercially that they do little advertising-it's that good. Just paint it on after removing the loose rust, let it convert the Iron Oxide to Iron Phosphate (an inert compound) and primer/paint:)
Interesting product but at $52 a quart I would opt for Naval Jelly first which DOES convert rust into a stable compound that can be painted. BTW, the compound is so good its used to coat most modern firearms. And its a fraction of the price. No prep needed.
I used a product called "Extend" to cover rust and top coated it with an oil based primer. A year later rust is showing through. I wish I had known of this product.
Your oil based coating might have worked better if a second coat had been applied. Lots of pin holes are usually present after just one coat. For the US Navy's bilge service, a two-part epoxy two-coat system is used with the first coat containing a fluorescent dye. Any fluorescence observed following the top coat gets a followup spot coat. The warranty went from something like two years to 15 years.
I had a rusty railing on my house so I knocked off the loose rust with a wire brush then painted with POR15, finally painted with black paint. It's been 5 years and it still looks great and I'm in the NE not in SolCal, it snows here
@1:03 as the camera shows a can of por-15 it clearly says on the can "Paint directly over rust". Jay leno is saying you clearly have to prep the surface and clean the rust before you apply the product lol
So to Paint Over Rust, you first mechanically remove the rust, then chemically convert any remaining rust, then paint with POR when there is no more rust. But wait, it gets better. After you Paint over the NON rust, you then have to paint with something else! Yes, read the can, POR needs to be top coated with some other paint, lol. Ya gotta love marketing.
This might be worth the money because sometimes if you remove the rust and just primer and paint it, it can somehow come back. Now I just cut all the rusted metal out and use aluminium sheet and bondo to make sure it won't come back. Really the best thing to do is find a rust free car and undercoat it.
Nice to see that Jay takes his time to help these small companies with promotion of their American made products. This is why Jay is successful. He never forgot where he come from, and has a passion for what he does. Thanks Jay
There is a twofold process which will permanently stop rust.
1) Use aluminium.
2) Move to Arizona.
XD
then you have Sun fading..
Check and check :)
what if you graduated high school and still have all your teeth? i don't want to stand out.
MrKeyboardCommando
Hahahaha
No thank you, I'll stay in Texas, the Gulf Coast Area!
Davey Crockett said it best... "You may all go to hell, I'm going to Texas!"
FANTASTIC stuff, I've been using it for years, and just yesterday on my Dodge. Accept no substitute, because there is none. But one word of caution: Use nitrile gloves, available cheap at Harbor Freight and elsewhere. Because POR 15 is impervious to all solvents, if it dries on your hands, the ONLY thing that will take it off is TIME. When resealing the can, put a sheet of plastic food wrap between the can and the lid, then tap it down because if the product dries the two together, you'll destroy the can getting the lid off the next time.
Maindrian Pace GREAT tips...thanks
Did you paint over it?
I've used this stuff on my 1995 Mercedes which was developing a small rust spot near one of the rear wheel wells. I followed the instructions and the stuff worked great. Dries rock-hard too. I put a spot of touch-up paint over the repair and it's virtually impossible to see unless you're really looking closely. After about two years no sign of the rust returning at all.
I had a rusty railing on my house so I knocked off the loose rust with a wire brush then painted with POR15, finally painted with black paint. It's been 5 years and it still looks great and I'm in the NE not in SolCal, it snows here. Stuff works great, just a little expensive but worth it
I first used this product 22 yrs ago to repair rusty water cooling towers. A word of Warning! DO NOT get any on your skin! If you do ,wipe off immediately! I got some of the silver product on my forearm,and the moisture on my skin caused it to cure. The only way I got it off,was to scrape it off and it took a lot skin with it! Read and follow instructions. If you top coat with paint, apply paint while product is "tacky" or It will dry hard and paint will not adhere. Then you will have to sand. A great product!
the instructions now say if you get it on your skin it will be there for a few days until the oils in you skin flake it off. I got a little on my arm and there was still some residue when I "wiped it off immediately" . A few day later and it was gone.
Lol I had black hands for a month ... nothing I mean nothing took it off..🤣
This is the best stuff I have ever used. If properly applied and protected, it will never rust again unless the metal is bent.
I've used their products, and it does end up "flaking" off like other sealant products as Jay mentioned. I fully prepped per instructions.
So it isn't the wonder rust arrester that it claims to be?
This is true... Truth be known I respect the very fact that this person has correctly used the word -their- in a sentence! But honestly... That’s good info. to know
I had really good results with the fuel tank kit, but it completely phosphates the rust right off with a prep solution before the coating goes on its not like por 15 I don't think.
I have used this and Rust Bullet and the latter is a much better product. The POR products require a lot of preparation prior to the coating. You can apply Rust Bullet directly with minimal prep. I have panels that were rusty with Rust Bullet painted over for the last 14 years outdoors rain or shine and no issues!
I used POR 15 when I was in Auto Body back in high school. This stuff works amazingly. My teacher deminstrated how good it is buy taking a piece of cloth and coating it with POR15 and the next day we could drill and tap into that piece of cloth. this stuff is awesome
Stuff definitely works. Did my TJ frame like 4 years ago. Not a lick of rust after 4 Chicago winters.
Did you put a topcoat over the POR 15?
Jay C
How could one address a non rusted frame that is heading
into different ne winters ??
3:04 Re: plastic bed line - I've had one in my '08 F250 since new and the bed still looks factory fresh.
And it's been loaded with just about everything!
Been using por15 for years. I don't follow all the steps. Wirebrush and sandpaper loose rust then quick scrub with a brillo pad. Wipe down with wet cloth or rinse thoroughly. Let dry then use a couple coats of permatex rust treatment. Let dry and add a couple coats of por15. Haven't had any trouble with por15 sticking to treated areas. Follow up with top coat of rustoleum. Has worked very well for me with no problems.
I have used this product for years....works fantastic!
paint over rust?
or paint over rust thats been sanded, degreased and prepped first :)
It should be called paint over metal so it doesn't rust. Or polymer primer is probably better.
There is nothing paint over rust about this.
***** i own a few datsuns and therefore use por15 all the time and I can tell you that it definitely can be used over rust directly with no prep as long as there is no oils on it. por15 works by mechanical adhesion so a rough rusty surface is perfect for it, but when oil is embedded in the pores of the metal it gets in the way of that. its not Paint Over Oil. This makes it not so good for the underside of a car unless you degrease it really well. It's not strictly an automotive product however and works great at encapsulating rust to stop it.
bluestripes1 Ditto on my '72 Charger. Had some places I could not get the rust out of short of dipping or blasting the car. Used POR15 six years ago, still no bubbling or problems.
bluestripes1 Did you just make a poo joke? :/
It can not protect the material if it never comes in contact with it. That is why the removal of as much rust as possible is advised. You would have to lack all common sense to try and paint over flaky rust and expect it to work optimally.
I have used this stuff and its the best, but expensive.
Great product, even though, a little pricey...Well worth it, applied to some rust spots on the door of my Datsun 280zx. Not only has the rust never returned, but the repair is undetectable. Awesome stuff.
Used the gas tank liner and it worked very well. Did not use any prep materials just stuff I had at my house. Make sure to be patient and let it cure fully.
I recently replaced my fuel tank/pump assembly but I would like to try this stuff to repair my old tank. Thanks Jay!
Permanent is a big word when you're talking about rust.
Por-15 tank sealer is some good stuff..... when I make a custom fiberglass gas tank for a custom car, truck, boat, plane or motorcycle, I use POR-15 tank sealer....... Just be sure to let it sit in a warm place so it can cure...... We've had ZERO issues so far using POR-15.
If you cant find POR-15 and you need something right away to seal or re-line the inside of a repaired, rusty or new fiberglass tank, you can buy another GREAT product called RED KOTE ....You use it the same way as POR-15....... 100 uses for this stuff!
I agree about the Red Kote Mr. Roach. The POR-15 paint is another story. The stuff lifts off in sheets even with a great prep job. I liken it to snake oil... For the underside of a car, it's cheaper and better to use a 2 part epoxy paint or 2 part urethane. The POR-15 has no hardeners. That alone says a lot.
I suspect it's a totally different situation on your fiberglass parts. It would be fun to do some side by side experiments.
Hi Greg, I cant speak for any other products made by POR-15 other then the tank sealer, If done right, ITS Good Stuff with Red Kote coming in a close second.
As far as the OTHER POR-15 products go, I have no clue and cant honestly agree or disagree with any positive or negative statements made by anyone.
HOWEVER...... Knowing You As I Do, Your Quality of Work, Your Kind & Gentle Nature, Your Genuine Honest Personality etc..etc.... If You Say There Is A Problem With The POR-15 Paint, Then I'm 100% Sure There Is A Problem With The Paint!!!!! .... No Doubt In My Mind! ! ! ! !
Greg, if you're interested in doing some side by side products testing? ..... By all means, Lets Do Some Side By Side Test........ Knowing JAY and The Big Dogs In His Garage As I Do, I'm 100% Sure that JAY and the World Class Mechanics and Fabricators in the Big Dog Garage will promote & use anything that we come up with.
I'm Ready To Hear Any Ideas
Greg's Garage If You can work with epoxy and urethane- no point even purchase POR-15. For me it works, because I'm lazy and just want to get some spots where I don't really want to work on, but able to reach from laying down in the driveway position
GasserGlass Read the RED COTE label. does not work with ethanol, which I believe is in all gasoline.
ummmmm I think thats a NEW label to keep them out of trouble just in case, I have to quarts here from 2009 and there is no such info on the cans....even some fuel cells for race gas says the same thing now.
My 98 Harley FXDL tank liner lifted. I used the POR tank kit and it is unbelievably fantastic. All you have to do is follow the directions
In my experience with it you just need to remove the big flaky stuff degrease it and the phosphoric acid helps it stick to unrusty metal. So yes you can brush it over rust. My dad and I have used it for years and thats all we do.We've never had the rust come back. You can literally hit it with a hammer and the metal will bend but the POR 15 doesn't break.
Did you paint over it or leave it as is. If it's under the car I suppose you don't have to paint it right?
@@cubul32 I did only to avoid the reflected uv light
Great stuff, I coated the floor boards top and bottom of my 41 Lincoln 6 years ago and it eliminated the further rust spread. I used their acid etch prior to coating, fast and easy and it works.
This is by far the best rust preventative that you can buy. All of the good restoration shops protect their customers cars with this product.
Scott -- their director of marketing -- wasn't exactly Mr. Personality, but the product sounds great and that's what matters. Thanks for sharing, Jay.
I used the POR-15 fuel-tank repair kit on my '68 Ford Galaxie 500 convertible, and it worked perfectly for me. I did the sealer on the inside of the tank, and the paint on the outside of the tank. It looks like a brand-new tank. You just have to make sure to follow ALL the instructions -- and take your time. This is not a quick process.
what a GREAT product...used it many times with tremendous results...have also used polyurethane resin with similar results while saving big bucks
Joe M Mams I have a 14 ft dump tralier I want fix up what stuff do u recommend?
Thank you for your videos
Thanks Jay! First product I've seen you feature that I've used too. This stuff is AWESOME! I used it on my '72 Charger about 6 years ago and full prep or minimal prep (degreased, could not remove rust) it is still working! Only problem spots are because of a tarp that rubs off any product over time.
I've used this stuff before with great success.
Like many paints, read the instructions and follow the steps carefully and you won't have a problem.
I've used this stuff in the past and it works as advertised. It's the best stuff on the market as far as I'm concerned. Of course there is prep for it to work properly but if you did the same with paint, rust will return where this will stop it permanently.
I am familiar with POR15 and have used it and it does work very well. The phosphoric acid treatment neutralizes the rust and the paint coating is amazingly strong! Car guys who live is high rust areas: just put in a small order and try it out, you'll love it. Promise. I painted some old rusty weights and have been clunking them around and the paint has held for about five years so far.
Totally agree. I've used it on the frames of a Jeep and a F100 and its brilliant and looks incredible. Dominion Sure Seal makes a knockoff product Called DOM16 which costs less too. Its easy to get carried away, It made me want to paint everything.
Used it on my Datsun Z...Rust left town, and NEVER came back.
I've used this for years and can vouch for it's rustproofing abilities as well as it's durability. It is amazing!
Just curious 6 years later you still haven’t had any rust issues with this?
POR15 is great stuff!!
I used their 3 part system in my motorcycle gas tank after it got completely full of rust... It worked better than imagined cleaning and coating the inside of my gas tank and leaving it rust free for the next 5 years until I sold it.
Also, I don't think they made it to clear in the video, but I don't believe the motorcycle tank version is the same as the original por 15, which is why it shouldn't flake off if prepped right... it's silver instead of black and I have a feeling it's thicker.
And that metal prep is damn good stuff for anyone wanting to remove rust from metal.
Just my two cents for anyone looking.
Good stuff, we saved a lot of carberators that had sever corrosin by sealing them with this, even coated a few floats that were no longer availble, readjust for added weight and good to go
I used it about 10 years ago to "anti-rust" the frame on my '59 Willys Wagon. It's still clean with no rust. I used it last Spring to seal the gas tank on my RotorTiller. I'll see how it is in a couple of months.
Thanks Jay and crew, Great information.
Godspeed recovering. Blessings to you and yours.
Used this on my chevelle, good stuff. Lol, all my prep work was, was a brush, brake cleaner and air.
POR15 is great stuff. I painted the chassis of a '14 Locomobile with it.
I love fluid film.The military uses it.Fluid film just apply it and it starts working.
What is the name of this?
@@peteschifferle1594 Fluid Film. It's a spray-on lanolin product, usually in an aerosol can. Sold at the right stores or on amazon. It's not a paint, though.
Bro he went full native for a sec there 😂
i have use this a lot, the paint is outstanding , I have used it on frames, bottom of cars, trk, inter fenders wells , I have spilled it on my paints and had the paints wear out around the paint,,,, I used this stuff 25 yrs ago and it stand up, never had a redo with it,, money well spent
If you paint a piece of sandpaper, it is then colored sandpaper. Of course the better the prep the better the paint job. I used this product (better have a good understanding that the overspray from this product is toxic DO NOT BREATHE OR LET IT OTHERWISE GET IN YOUR SKIN OR EYES) and after 13 yrs. (so far) on my sandblasted 70's corvette frame, suspension arms, drive shaft, brake calipers, etc...still looks like new. I also agree that top coating is best done after a brief flash period of the product as you would do successive coats of enamel paint. I used the remainder of the paint in my paint gun cup to coat a unprepped cast iron table base for an outdoor table, didn't bother to top coat and sits in the weather ever since. It got dull from the sun and weather but is still holding up. A small amount of flash rust is always present in pitted metal but the product is made to encapsulate the metal. Its the best product I've used for old metal. Probably next best thing to powder coat or dipping for new metal for a DYI.
This stuff can be a little pricey but it is well worth it. POR 15 kicks ass.
I like the fact that the coating self levels and has a glossy appearance.
***** Yes. I did hear that. But, I do believe, that a smooth foundation can provide a good foundation for anything built upon it.
The problem with coatings like POR15 is that if there is ANY shortcoming in the surface preparation, it will not bond properly leading to a real problem. This can be a disaster if the previous owner applied it without any real surface prep.
You don’t really HAVE to prepare much more than just steel brushing it but if you do it will last a bit longer
Good of Jay to give these co's a chance to get their product exposure.
i like this guy, he wasnt trying to sell his product at all....he was just beeing cool and talking about it.....only god knows if its all true or if this video is scam.
He was being cool and talking about it. That's selling it. I'd trust a guy like this more than I would some uppy salesman.
He's just calmly showing what the it can do. He's letting the product sell itself
Rip jay loved watching you over the years .
I know a rally racer who stated POR-15 on suspension components withstands blasting of rock, gravel and dirt better than Power Coat paint. POR-15 is tough.
Powder coating ain't paint.
OK, I put some on the rear differential "pumpkin" plate of a car which was real crusty. I had to knock off a bunch of loose metal first, then prep it and after I dried it with a heat gun (it needs to be dry to paint) I put it on; it looks so much smoother than it did. It hasn't been ten days yet since I did it, I'm not going to wait until winter starts to coat the rest of the car.
I like how Jay opens up with “this is a paid ad”
1:31 Jay's tribal roots coming out
🤣
This video was posted 6 years ago. Do you still use this product, especially on motorcycle gas tanks, or during this time you found a better alternative? Thank you.
Love the stuff but it does have a shelf life after opening. Plan you job and skin protection is a must unless you like wearing a coat of POR15.
I used a quart of POR15 back in the 90’s & I didn’t feel that it lived up to the advertised promise; with that said, I admit that maybe I wasn’t thorough enough on prep; you can never be too diligent. There are so many products available today, it’s hard to know what works best for guys like us, building stuff in our garage & driveway. Rustoleum is cheap, it’s available everywhere, it looks decent & it’s pretty forgiving unless you want show car quality & that’s just not in the cards for the way I live...
I used that stuff on my 53 and its good stuff!
I like por guys enthusiasm
Nice to see quality American products being recognized!
Heard/read nothing but good things about this stuff. I have a gas tank that may be getting this treatment.
Have used Hirsch "Miricle paint" with good results,, description sounds like the same stuff, but they don't try to sell you all the prep chemicals and brushes etc in a more expensive kit form as I have seen POR 15 do at the swap meets.
Thanks, I may try it. I was going to just oil the bottom of my Suburban before winter which I heard works too, and now I have this to think about and maybe use.
POR15 rocks. You can knock off the flaky rust and paint over the rest. It works.
BUYING IT! BUYING IT!
Just watched the projects in progress, leave the Mercedes original. I saw a '65 or newer Corvair on a lift, have you "shown" this one? I own a '65 four carb Corsa & you do a great job telling special insights. Thanks from an "old phart".
I don't understand why vehicle companies don't come up with a paint that will protect there cars and trucks from rusting. I know Ferrari dips their car frames in a liquid that actually prevent the vehicles from rusting. I'm pretty sure other automotive companies can do the same.
You're right I agree 100% with everything you said Calskin
Most do have this process. Its called E- Coating. Most manufacturers do this. The Cars and parts get dipped. When a panel is scratched or damaged the bare metal is exposed and the rust takes over like cancer.
They do. Its called galvanizing. Modern sheet metal is double galvanized, meaning there is a zinc coating applied to both sides of the metal before paint. If the zinc coating is compromised however, that is where the rust will start first.
It's all about the ££ or $$, they save this way by not doing it right
Car frames and bodies aren't galvanized.
Jay for president
Fluid film ! Its a lanolin based product you can spray or brush it on and a product i haven't tried yet, NH OIL... oh...i saw your Pantera video ! Awesome, but if its narrow inside like a 911, my shoulders are too broad to shut the door unless i scrunch up, then they get sore and i was wondering if air got under the front at high speed and lift the car up,my 69 vette would actually be forced lower due to aero dynamics around 95-100 mph and handled great at speed.
Cool epitsode looking forward to viewing the follow ups!
Thanks Jay,
PS: Keep the Mercedes "Stock"
A way I killed rust: 🚲 I had a rusty bike... I knew someone who was a mechanic, I went to his garage... and took the bike apart into a few smaller pieces And dipped them in a large drum of Coca-Cola and it came right off! And it preserved the paint... if Coca-Cola takes off rest like THAT! imagine what it does when you drink it... yum!
The premium pricing on these products, should tell you something. The products need to perform to a standard, and be not difficult to apply. So the products must work!
In Australia we pay almost twice the price and the products are widely available through their suppliers.
If I grind away rust on a body panel and spray this on, can I then use fiberglass or Bondo over it or should I leave the metal raw to apply body work?
I brought this product followed the instructions to the letter and the rust spots came back. Tried it again in the same area following instructions again. Rust came back on my white car in the same area i just treated twice. Stuff is crap!
Having read so much about this paint, I thought I would try it. My test is challenging for any paint - rust-proofing the underside of a lawn mower deck.
What I did: after removing any loose rust, I applied two coats of this paint and allowed several days to dry before running the mower. I ran the mower for one grass cutting session - about an hour of continuous use, then inspected the painted surface.
The results: this paint tends to peel off in sheets (as others have found) and bonds significantly less well than a conventional wax-based car underseal (which I normally use).
A couple of things to note:
- I did not use the recommended two stage preparation process. I will therefore try this next and report back on results.
- the exceptional high cost - especially if the preparation stages are used.
My conclusion: this paint, when used alone, ie without costly surface preparation, is ineffective for rust protecting in high impact areas, particularly when applied to pre-painted or non-rusted surfaces - where bonding is particularly poor.
would be nice ti have after a rocker panel fix. nice if i was american i would buy. keep up the videos jay
Try OSPHO. There are other similar products out there that are just Phosphoric acid. This company sells so much commercially that they do little advertising-it's that good. Just paint it on after removing the loose rust, let it convert the Iron Oxide to Iron Phosphate (an inert compound) and primer/paint:)
Thank you Jay for promoting AMERICAN made products.
Peoples are sceptic 🤔
Hey even if it doesnt last "permanently" its better than nothing 🙂
Used this on an rv gas tank, 100 gls, 8 years ago, gas tank is perfect, rest of rv not so much
I'm doing prep for under a vinyl top....abd folks say don't use it because you can't paint over it..any thoughts..
Interesting product but at $52 a quart I would opt for Naval Jelly first which DOES convert rust into a stable compound that can be painted. BTW, the compound is so good its used to coat most modern firearms. And its a fraction of the price. No prep needed.
Me interesa el producto,pero en Puerto Rico,no lo consigo.Ustedes hacen despachos para Puerto Rico.
Love these product segments. Please do more of them.
I used a product called "Extend" to cover rust and top coated it with an oil based primer. A year later rust is showing through. I wish I had known of this product.
Your oil based coating might have worked better if a second coat had been applied. Lots of pin holes are usually present after just one coat. For the US Navy's bilge service, a two-part epoxy two-coat system is used with the first coat containing a fluorescent dye. Any fluorescence observed following the top coat gets a followup spot coat. The warranty went from something like two years to 15 years.
Is this only for bare metal? Can this be used as underbody coat on new FT? Painted areas inside and out to prevent rust?
It stops rust permanently in Jay Leno's climate controlled California garage.. LOL!
it actually does what it says... reputable product.
I had a rusty railing on my house so I knocked off the loose rust with a wire brush then painted with POR15, finally painted with black paint. It's been 5 years and it still looks great and I'm in the NE not in SolCal, it snows here
But it does actually work everywhere else too. Very effective.
@@Scratch2C nothing stops rust permanently..its part of mother nature
😂😂😂
Would this work to seal up a rusting out water heater?
i've had some peel off but i probably didn't prep it properly because it wasn't totaly bare metal.
@1:03 as the camera shows a can of por-15 it clearly says on the can "Paint directly over rust".
Jay leno is saying you clearly have to prep the surface and clean the rust before you apply the product lol
Better than kream coat I bet, viton rubber gets destroyed by the gas these days so coatings have to consider that.
So to Paint Over Rust, you first mechanically remove the rust, then chemically convert any remaining rust, then paint with POR when there is no more rust. But wait, it gets better. After you Paint over the NON rust, you then have to paint with something else! Yes, read the can, POR needs to be top coated with some other paint, lol. Ya gotta love marketing.
Paint Over Rust, and they suggest media blasting or other prep work to remove all the rust. Yea.
LOL you have to prep any thing you paint it's logic not magic .
So its not really "Paint over rust" because you have to remove the rust first, and no good in the sun. Im impressed
EVOCATEUR look at his avatar...What do you think?
EVOCATEUR lol he dt read directions either!!
Great product. I used it as a primer in my engine bay.
I have some 5 gallon jerry cans I'll try this stuff on. Thanks!
Por 15 has a great reputation at least around where I live but it is kinda pricey. If it was more affordable I would use it a lot more.
Good stuff been using it for years!
This might be worth the money because sometimes if you remove the rust and just primer and paint it, it can somehow come back. Now I just cut all the rusted metal out and use aluminium sheet and bondo to make sure it won't come back.
Really the best thing to do is find a rust free car and undercoat it.