I've been using this stuff for 20 YEARS. I'm kind of a bed beg about paint and prep, but the easiest, no hassel way I have found to use this stuff is to never take the lid off. Punch a small hole in the top of the can. Tip the can and catch the leak with the brush, apply. When finished, screw a tapered body bolt into the hole, flip the can to seal the threads. I have tried breaking down into small containers, & the saran wrap lid trick. Both will result in a hardened shell of dried paint if stored for too long once opened. I recently tried a can off the shelf that is at least 2yrs old with the bolt in the lid. Paint is still good, I tried pealing it off after a couple months. This method is super easy, and often I find applications where I only need to use just a little bit while I am working under my car on something.
Now that’s a PRO-TIP ! Thanks for sharing! I just pinned your comment to the top of the comments section! And in a few months I will need to use some more POR-15 and I will definitely try this trick! Thanks again!
Smooth move. I have been reading up on this stuff when I found this very informative presentation, and great (PRO-TIPS). I'm always looking to do it better, make it last longer and cost less in the long run, if at all possible. This video, and the comments are exactly what I needed. Thanks!
Thats awesome! I am glad to share some information and also spark a few conversations with other people who can share even more tips!!!! And than you for sharing your comment!!!!! I hope that your project goes well! What are you working on that made you look into this again?
Discovering POR-15 ten years ago, it has been the only technique capable of maintaining my car indefinitely. My daily driver is 21 years old, and it gets the treatment every second year, before MOT. Not that I need to redo anything I did two years earlier, but one year I do the sills, next time the trailing arms, etc. and this car for the first time in 40 years messing with cars, do not progressively get more rusty every year! And it is a 90's Fiat notoriously known to be a rust magnet!
Wow, if that isn’t proof right there then I don’t know what is!!! I have been using it for years too! Its been keeping this 2006 Mustang GT alive since I got it!
I’m starting to restore my grandads ‘64 Chevrolet C 10. It has been sitting for twenty five years. I will be using this on my sentimental project. Thanks for the tips
I own a 95 bmw e34 which has a notorious condition of getting rust on the bottom door seals. Been looking for the right stuff to do some treatment work and this video pretty much convinced me that por 15 will be the go to
I been snooping for vids on spraying this stuff. Used Por15 on my 03 marauder. Painted whole underside of car with gloss black. I’m kinda fussy so I lifted body off frame and prepped and painted all summer and it looks great but OMG painting it by hand took forever!
Great video, however I would HIGHLY recommend a respirator with the application of this even outdoors, the label is pretty strong in it's warning, and if you look at the chemicals and their by-products in POR15, I think you would agree: The vapor given off is "Dimethyl benzenes Xylens" and is pretty serious stuff. Possibility of permanent organ or organ system damage from prolonged exposure; Target organ(s): Central nervous system (CNS). Kidney. Liver. No sense fore fitting your left nut just so your car doesn't rust! :)
I love the way you put together the content. Including, prepwork, how to apply, where to use it and that it is not a magic, heal-forever-kind-of-fix. thx!
I just heard about POR-15 and your video is perfect! I am looking at protecting some metal items around the house and in the garage along with working on an old Honda. I have refinished furniture and cabinets for years and doing metal is new for this old guy. Thank you!
Hey, thanks for saying hello Nick! I grew up around carpentry too, which is my first love! But working with hand tools lead to my love for cars as well! I have been using POR-15 for a very long time with predictable results! I can usually tell when it will hold up and when it won’t! And that variation is largely due to how carefully I prep the metal! Take your time! Good luck and let me know how it works out for you!
Replacing the floors in an 87 Jeep Comanche and built a rectangular subframe inside while it’s open to stiffen the chassis up. I’m coating everything I can w POR15 to keep it around for many years and down the generations. Thanks for the video and keep having fun with the race cars!
Good luck! Sounds like a fun project! Always wanted a J20 or Wagoner! I would love to see the final product! Let me know how it works out and where I can see pics of the final product! Thanks for saying hello!
I got some por 15 on some new work pants, when I pants were worn out the spots were the por 15 spilled on never come out. Finally after a lot of welding and burning the pants up. They got thrown away with the por15 still on them... hands down the best paint for rust protection I’ve every use. Been a body an for 35 yrs
I've used this on 3 car restorations over several years. The floor boards had rust forming. This stuff stopped the rust from spreading. I checked the results on two of the cars 2 years later and the metal was still sealed.
How much do you have to prep? I understand the flakey stuff but how for do you have to go ? I’m a little confused as the product says Paint over Rust. Any info would be appreciated. Thank You
I usually just paint over the rust! Period! Yes, knock off the flakey stuff! The “prep” really is important with unseasoned metal. New metal has little texture to bond to and often has a film of oil on it to prevent rusting. The prep will degrease and etch the metal for your paint job. Rusty metal is easier 🤣 Hope that helps! Let me know what else you would like to know! I have been using this stuff for a while!
I’m starting the metal prep step tomorrow on my FJ80 Land Cruiser. I put days of work in grinding and sanding down all the frame. Hope it pays off. Rust is about the only thing that can stop that Cruiser so hopefully it gives the frame many more years and many more miles. Great video, thanks
+James B Good Luck James! Since you did grind off the rust please make sure to decrease and prep the metal! It is very important for your situation! And make sure you let me know how it works out! Also, read the instructions carefully because the fumes can be toxic! Good luck and thank you for saying hello!!!! -Paul
Working on a 1978 Vw bus. Used some on floor boards of a bug and worked great except where I didn’t realize I had a break line leak, but I don’t think anything would adhere to metal with any brake fluid on it anyway. Thanks for the tips.
I followed what you did to you mustang on my old 78 ford f150, now I am put a new clutch in my 92 Taurus sho I'm using POR on the sub frame and whatever else looks like it needs a dose!! thanks again!!
Try couple days ago first time por15, seems to be great product.Got tip using plastic kitchen foil on under cap after use, it is easy to open after that.
Nice. I have a lifted 96 gmc that's pretty sweet. Definitely need to paint everything underneath with this stuff, but I think I'll be fine just degreasing it. Rinsing it. Then paint.
When it comes to a working vehicle I have no OCD. Just make it work! Sounds to me like you know what you’re doing! I love using POR-15 but whatever gets the job done is whats best!
You can buy it is the larger cans... just pour it into mason jars and keep the paint away from the cap and threads. The key to keeping it usable is to fill the jar above the paint with propane to displace the air before you seal the jar.
Good advice! I’ve used a plastic glove to do the same! Usually I will just wipe the lip clean with a rag then just pry it off with a screw driver! But it can be a pain in the butt to the-open if you don’t prep the lid before closing!
ramosel I've been using this stuff for 20 YEARS. I'm kind of a bed beg about paint and prep, but the easiest, no hassel way I have found to use this stuff is to never take the lid off. Punch a small hole in the top of the can. Tip the can and catch the leak with the brush, apply. When finished, screw a tapered body bolt into the hole, flip the can to seal the threads. I have tried breaking down into small containers, & the saran wrap lid trick. Both will result in a hardened shell of dried paint if stored for too long once opened. I recently tried a can off the shelf that is at least 2yrs old with the bolt in the lid. Paint is still good, I tried pealing it off after a couple months. This method is super easy, and often I find applications where I only need to use just a little bit while I am working under my car on something.
I am just seeing this comment now too! That is an awesome idea! Reminds me of how I leave a decking screw in the caulk gun tube and then use the drill to back it out when I need to use it again! Never thought to do it with POR-15. Brilliant! Thanks for sharing the info. I usually wait till I have enough to paint that I need the whole can. But now I can use your trick and use as needed!
Thanks for the informative video. About to do a full restore of a set of NFab nerf bars on our Hummer H3. It has rust in the typical locations that plague the nfabs and their inferior (powder coating). Not sure that ill be doing any video of the process, but I'll definitely be taking photos as I go. Thanks again for all the pro tips everyone of you has provided.
Thats typically my favorite use for this stuff. Maintenance!! Sounds like a fun project! I love older cars! Looking for a 60’s era Power Wagon! That should be fun!
Dad put together a 76 squarebody back in the late 80s and it sat since 95 with exception of me tinkering with it a bit in the early 2000s. Well now we yanked it out of the woods and I'm starting to tear it down need to coat the frame and such.
Sounds like a fun project! Definitely a challenge after sitting in the woods. It’s probably going to take much more prep work than I have ever done! Let me know how it works out!
+Carl Campbell LOL, thank you! I try my best to get out and enjoy life! I don't race often at all and don't have the best equipment but when I can - I do! Wish I could race more but I am always on the hunt for an adventure! This year has been a bit light on adventure but I did have the most epic wildlife experience in my life! I was face to face with a massive black bear. I am putting up a video with footage of the bear hopefully this week (if I get the time). Thanks you saying hello! I am glad I entertained you just a bit!
Hello Hazard - Yes that is a wicked little Mustang you have there alright. I am a die hard dirt racing fan and attend the races here in So CA at the Ventura Raceway. They have Sprinters, Midgets, Stocks and Bikes there. My brother who lives in an an agricultural area in the So Bay Area of CA has a neighbor (Dean Nelson) who also has a dirt track on his property to test his Sprint car. It is very cool for gear heads, but needless to say other locals are hostile about the very loud noise (too funny).
+Carl Campbell Carl, I have only been to California three times. The last time was during a Vegas trip for SEMA. I love it out there! You guys have the best car culture in the country! That clip of me in the dirt was at a friends place in Ohio! I wish I had something like that setup on my property! Maybe someday! -Paul
Well Hazard, it sure has been great fun alright over the years with the car hobby and racing. If I can digress and become philsopical for a moment, I would just say that if I had to do it over again, I would try to make the gear head things for family fun and mentoring. I do not know how old you are and if you are married or have a family. I confess, I was pretty much selfish / self centered with cars and several other things when the kids were young.
+Carl Campbell I am married and we have been trying to have our first baby, (a little late in life). I hope to do like you described, using my love for Mechanic and Woodworking something to share / mentor with. But all you can do is try and do your best! I am sure that's what you are doing now and You sound like a genuine guy!!! Give yourself some credit because that's a rare thing these days!
No problem! Next summer I have to do a complete pass through on the underbody of my Jeep WK2 . It has 154,000 mi on it and it’s time to slow down and prevent rust if I plan to get another 154,000 miles out of it! Good luck!
Great video short and informative, I agree prep is key, I use POR-15 on my restorations and yes it could get messy if not careful, for reusing I secure a wire in the center of container for the brush and mask the rim just in case (always clean rim before lid back on), Thanks
Very helpful. I have seen other criticize the product for not sticking but they do not stress the three step process as you do. I am working on the underbody of a 1978 Fiat Spider that had rubberized undercoating on it. I have removed 90% of it with heat and mechanical stripping. I am assuming, I need to remove all of the old undercoating to get to metal before starting any prep work? Is that true? If so, there are too many nooks and crannies to get into and I am planning on media blasting first. Do you agree?
GREAT VIDEO & keep up the good work, have fun & stay safe. I bought a new truck few days ago. Could I paint this underneath the truck directly or should i etch the new metal somehow? Will this stuff stick to new metal that's clearcoated etc
thank you for the video I have heard lots of POR and now I understand what the fellas were talking about and hey I hardly ever leave my house other than work but if I knew I could see you do what you do with that mustang I would for sure show up!!!!
well things went perfect on my 1978 ford f150 the frame and rear diff looked their age with some wire wheeling and wire brushing and a good dose of POR holy shit it looks better than I thought it would, you have really helped me out thanks for the video!!!
Thank you! I appreciate that! I actually JUST posted an awards ceremony video at an event I was volunteering at (NEPA Rally Sprint) and at the very end of the video (at 12:20) as part of a teaser outro for my Channel you can see inside car footage of us jumping the Mustang at New York Forest Rally 2020. Let me know what you think 🤣
I’ve got F-250 plow truck with pretty severe “surface” rust on all frame members. How much prep and por should I need to do a thorough job? Thanks. Great informative and detailed video!
Thanks for the simple explanation! Think I have OCD and I’m scared to attempt a some tasks for the risk of messing it up this gives me confidence thx! Got my truck repainted in spring just need to make the underside look good! (Rear axle, frame as much as I can reach, front suspension etc.) Should I do top coat on suspension?
Thanks for the video tips! I'm redoing the back half of the frame and suspension on my 1985 GMC K1500. I'm using the 3 steps on the frame and bracketry, finishing with the black POR15. Other parts, I'm using the cleaner/degreaser, and the metal prep, but I'm only finishing it with a rattle can because I know I'll be replacing these parts in the next 5-10 years, or they're easily unbolted and accessible to redo them if they need it. Question: Will the rattle can paint bond to the parts after the metal prep? Or is that base POR15 specific? Hope that was clear. 🤔 Thanks again!
Thanks I'm Refurbishing and Upgrading a 1992 Airstream from the frame up. I am grinding off as much rust as possible and then I intend to use POR-15. I appreciate your video. Be safe.
That’s sounds like a big job! I hope you’re taking plenty of pictures! I am glad that I could help and happy that you said hello! Best of luck to you and please let me know how it works out for you!
If the rust is forming underneath the paint then YES! Because POR-15 has to bond to the rust and seal it off directly. If the rust had patches of paint in or near it then I would also because the rust will travel.
All I do is put the lid on loosely and then put the can in the freezer. But first I am very careful dipping the brush in the can not to get the paint on the lid seal. And before lightly placing lid onto can for storage in freezer, I use 90% rubbing alcohol to clean any bit that might be in the crack. I also put the brush in a cereal bag and stick it into the freezer. This keeps the Por15 from setting up. The air in a freezer is very dry and cold. I buy the quart size cans.
Very interesting freezer technique! I totally get it but too paranoid about the food in the freezer- even though everything is “sealed” and there should be little to no vapors as the paint wont be evaporating! But it would still tick in the back of my head - what about the food 😳
@@HazardSports An interesting thing is that frozen can, the por15 is just as liquid as at room temp, no need to wait for it to warm before painting. Any thing moisture cured, like polyurethane construction adhesive, 3M 5200 or silicone gasket maker, I put in the freezer and it prevents it from hardening. So you can buy a tube of 5200, and it will last for ever after opening. No one can smell a thing.
I'm Rebuilding a 84 S10 Blazer from the Ground up and I just Washed & Degreased the Frame today, The Frame is pretty Rusty, But not rusted thru, So I bought some POR 15 & Top Coat for it, I'm also thinking about doing the inside of the Frame Rails too bc they look pretty Rusty as well, If your interested in checking out my Project I've got some videos on my Channel...
@@HazardSports Ok Cool, I'm actually working on Editing the Video from yesterday now, It's Exporting so it might be a little while before I actually get it uploaded Lol
Welcome back Gear1993Head - being that you are reading this 😂🤣. Sorry, that welcome back was for the few subscribers that follow me. I guess for you a standard “Welcome” would be more appropriate! Thanks for saying hello - and I hope to welcome you back again sometime! Have a good day fellow Gear Head !
Love the video man! Short and to the point with no mucking about. Quick question for you though, when I do the POR15 Top Coat, how would I go about that? Should I scuff the surface, apply some sort of adhesion promoter, or just spray top coat directly? I'm dubious about scuffing the paint cause I'm doing the undercoating of my 63 Thunderbird and want to make sure I have as much material underneath protecting the body. I read some places that you can spray directly on, and other people say you gotta have a promoter coat. But if I don't need it, then I don't want to spend the extra money. If you have any insight, that would be awesome. Thanks!
Any time I used a top coat I would apply it when the base paint was still tacky. Now POR-15 has a “top coat” paint that is DTM (Direct To Metal). I never used it before. And since I have had success with the original POR-15 I get a little shy on trying something new. If it completely dries then scuffing it lightly is what I would do. But I would call POR-15 and ask them directly. Any time I had to call them they were very helpful. If you find out something else please come back and share! Thank you and good luck!
quick question (and thank you for the video) ..If I am only doing inner fender aprons, frame, etc...would I need the topcoat ? I mean those are not exactly "sunlight pieces"...thanks in advance
Great video, thank you for posting. Bought a can of this today but the cleaner/degreaser and metal prep were not available. So far i chipped away all the flaky bits and used Castrol Superclean on the pieces. Can you give any suggestion as to what else i could do to ensure best adhesion ?
+TheCanadianBubba Honestly, I have used this stuff a lot over the years! Any seasoned metal with rust on it that I have painted with no prep has lasted me a long long time! However, that's not the recommended way to use the paint! The prep is extremely important, especially for new metal. New bare metal is definitely something you don't want to paint without prep work! That's where you will find your most trouble! Good luck and let me know how it works out!
Great video I wonder if you can skip the prep steps by using Mirotic acid. Since it etches metal. I might try it this weekend. On my 81 f100. Not to rusty for a PA vehicle but would like to keep it that way. thanks
Great video! Using POR15 on my channel recently as well and love it! Cant wait to put it to the test and see how long it lasts! Keep beating on that stang! Looks hella fun 👍
@@HazardSports that would be awesome! Im restoring a first generation RX7 and its coming along nicely. Refinished some suspension and the differential housing and this stuff is solid! Maybe overkill on the prep work but i want to make sure this car will last 👍
I've bought a load of this stuff to paint a chassis for a Jaguar E-type kit car that I've stripped right down. It's taking forever to grind the chassis down however. I can't clean and paint as is as it has loads of rubbery goo and old paint covering a large amount of. I'm tired of grinding 😭
Forbear metal muriatic acid and spray scrubbing bubbles over the acid while still wet rinse about 10-15 minutes later looks like it was sandblasted I wish I could post pictures also no fumes and cheep the scrubbing decreases at the same time try it. will not take the old paint off.
helpful video! question, you ever try the spray can? Getting a 94 GT that doesn't seem to be rust coated . have you driven on salted roads? and when you said "a long time " how long ?
+ursixx I never tried the spray can but one thing I would caution you about would be to take you time masking and taping because overspray will be a nightmare to deal with. This car spent most of its time at the shoreline of the east coast (NY/NJ) and the salt "in the air" as well as humidity are both known to reek havoc in the form of rust and corrosion. The areas of the rear axel that I painted back in 2006 remained rust and corrosion free without putting any more paint until this year (to cover the entire axel). Good luck with your 94!
Working on my LX570, frame rust. Roughly removed the crumbs, then degreased-rinse-metal prep - rinse, then it got dark and humid, couldn’t do shit. Now I’m worried when it’s gonna stop raining so I can apply POR15
Should be ok as long as it’s not raining so hard that the rain is splattering up contaminants back onto your prepped surfaces! And also remember that humidity makes PO-15 paint dry faster so that could either help or hurt you depending on what your trying to do!
Can you paint this stuff over old paint? Or does it have to be down to bare metal? I’m restoring a 92 civic hatchback and I’ve dealt with por 15 before and it’s great stuff! But that was 20 years ago almost. Thanks for the video btw
Thats a good question and I don’t see the answer in their website. But I do know that they are very friendly and helpful over the phone. I would call them at 1-800-457-6715 or tel:+1-973-887-1999.. I know that I have painted over paint but thats after prepping, and it was never over anything that was a “show piece” and had to be perfect. As long as it stopped the rust I didn’t pay much attention to appearance! So it would be interesting what they tell you. Please let us all know what they tell you!
Thanks for the video! I have some rust above my wheel well on the outside of my car. I did the metal prep, POR 15 coating, and also applied a top coat. Is there anything else I should do? About how long does it take to dry? Thanks.
Jack It dries pretty quick as long as you applied thin coats. Even faster when it is humid! If you put on a thick glob of paint it could take a while. i try to paint when I can let it sit for a few days; but thats overkill. Let me know how it works out!
Thanks for the info, and I have one more question if that's ok. Will POR hold up to scratches and can it be buffed or polished if need be? Just curious because it's on the exterior of my car.
It’s marketed as “tough as nails” but I never used it in exterior. You said you have a top coat over it so I am sure that is most vulnerable. Good to have paint on top cause POR15 doesn’t do well exposed to UV light. The only issues I have seen with POR15 are when the metal isn’t prepped and rinsed : dried properly- then it will peel over time. But since you did the prep you shouldn’t have a problem with it. Feel free to call the company directly- they are very helpful!
VERY INFORMATIVE VIDEO; I have a 70 chevy rusted out rocker; I was wondering if it,e possible to apply Por 15 and when dry fill using metal and dyna glas filler?? and advice appreciated; THANK,S PJP
I haven’t seen it used as filler but I would suggest calling the company that makes POR-15 and ask what they recommend! Then let us all know what you find out!
@@maxburner3500 thats a good tip! Thanks for sharing! I take the gloves that I am wearing off and wrap them around the can. It wraps tightly- just like shrink wrap. It has worked well for me over the years!
I would appreciate if you could help me: what is the ideal weather or temperature to use POR15 Rust Preventative? Would it be a good idea to use in a 100 degree weather?
I used it again the other day in a project. It was a very humid day. Before I was done with the first coat the paint was hardening in the brush. I was using the brush continuously yet it was hardening that fast (hours). Non- stop 2 coats took me 2 brushes over the span of 5hrs. Thin coats. This paint dries super fast in humidity. The temperature is less important. When I use other automotive paints I prefer hot sunny days to heat up the metal and let the paint bake in the sun. Two different animals.
Sorry for the late response! I have never used a rust converter before POR-15 so I couldn’t say how well it worked. If you find out then please let me know! Thank You!
Redoing a surface rusted truck frame, not pitted badly some original paint still there. Will wire wheeling it off be enough before prep and paint? I'd rather not sand blast but want longest lasting results.
I would still use the metal prep solution before you paint it! The people at POR-15 are very helpful if you would like to call them for a detailed explanation.
@@HazardSports thanks for your reply! I do have the metal prep as well. I spent the day yesterday stripping the frame and it's looking pretty good. I may reach out to Por15 just to double check. Thanks!
On the places that do get sun, did you wait till it got tacky and then applied a top coat or did you wait till it was fully dried and sand it down. Going to paint someone thing on my 94 Bronco, wanted to know the best way to apply the top coat. First time using por 15,
You’re supposed to do it when its tacky. I didn’t even top coat because this car isn’t exactly a show piece! But you’re 100% right - areas exposed to the sun need a top coat!!!
You could spray it on but it needs to be thinned out. Protection is supposed to be permanent but I am sure that nothing is permanent! So depends in the harsh conditions the paint is subjected to or lack there of!
You can paint directly over POR15. As long as your top coat is paint and not clear coat you should be good! If you prepped the metal and painted POR15 properly then the top coat is your weak link as it is exposed t the environment. For the top coat just follow the recommendations for that paint. Not sure if you did multiple layers with wet sanding in between or what your specific needs or application call for. Again, I am no paint expert but just have some personal experience with POR15
@@guusberkhof8429 I think you just have to hit any old paint with 320 grit before applying POR15. I wanted really good adhesion so I just stripped it. The por15 only becomes as strong as the paint that’s on it if you don’t.
@HazardSports I believe I ended up using about 3.5 cans for the frame and 1.5 for the rear axle and all the little parts. It turned out really good. Highly recommend. New video coming soon it will show the finished product.
How about painted wheel wheels Prefer do add additional protection priorbt poo nany rust now that vehicle is in ne and facing first winter Por clear over the metal etch but metal etch ruins the paint color ? so what is clear good for or can I uae directly on cleaned paint I just received Clear Black And top coat And metal prep And degreaser
+Finn Green I have only applied POR-15 to bare metal (new & rusted). I have never painted over paint with it and I don’t think you can with predictable results. But, I certainly don’t know! What I can tell you is that I have called the company before and they are very helpful and take time to explain things to you! Give them a call and let them know you’ve seen our video (please). Let me know how it works out for you!
I'm in the process of restoring a 1978 IH scout II and about to paint most of it with por-15.and then paint over it with Herculiner. So my question is once the por-15 dries what would you think the best way to apply the herucliner would be???
+CHUCK COHENOUR That's a good question! My guess is before it completely dries while POR-15 is still tacky; or, scuff the surface so the Herculiner can bind to it. But, the best person to ask would be someone at POR-15. They are located out of Long Island NY and very friendly. They have been very helpful to us so let them know we referred you. Here is the number: 800-457-6715. But don't call today because we are having a blizzard in NY right now. They didn't get hit as bad as we did upstate but I think most businesses shut down today! (Getting some good footage for my next video though - LOL). Let me know what they recommend so I can share the info with others!
I called POR-15 and they said that after I painted the POR-15 and it became tacky, that would be the time to paint the Herculiner over the POR-15 so that it would stick. If not then I would have to wait 24 hours and use sandpaper to scuff it up to paint the POR-15 over it.. Any questions just send me a message..
+CHUCK COHENOUR Yup, exactly what I guessed but dont know the herculiner product specifically to know if there were any special considerations! Thank you very much for the update and comfirmation! Let me know how your project works out for you!
I live in Texas so we don't really get bad rust problems down here. however I would still like to do the undercarriage of my 2011 F250. My undercarriage isn't full of rust and the majority of the factory paint is intact. What steps would you recommend to prep the surface to get a long lasting coating of the por15 before it peels?
+Daniel Robinson Honestly Daniel, if the factory paint is still intact I would just leave it alone! If you have areas that are peeling I would just treat those areas! Pull the flakes off, use the degreaser, then the metal prep, then paint! That’s my opinion. -Paul
I've been using this stuff for 20 YEARS. I'm kind of a bed beg about paint and prep, but the easiest, no hassel way I have found to use this stuff is to never take the lid off. Punch a small hole in the top of the can. Tip the can and catch the leak with the brush, apply.
When finished, screw a tapered body bolt into the hole, flip the can to seal the threads.
I have tried breaking down into small containers, & the saran wrap lid trick. Both will result in a hardened shell of dried paint if stored for too long once opened.
I recently tried a can off the shelf that is at least 2yrs old with the bolt in the lid. Paint is still good, I tried pealing it off after a couple months.
This method is super easy, and often I find applications where I only need to use just a little bit while I am working under my car on something.
Now that’s a PRO-TIP ! Thanks for sharing! I just pinned your comment to the top of the comments section! And in a few months I will need to use some more POR-15 and I will definitely try this trick! Thanks again!
Thanks! I've been having the problem where the paint keeps hardening after closing the lid. Now I'm ready for another can!
Smooth move. I have been reading up on this stuff when I found this very informative presentation, and great (PRO-TIPS). I'm always looking to do it better, make it last longer and cost less in the long run, if at all possible. This video, and the comments are exactly what I needed. Thanks!
Thats awesome! I am glad to share some information and also spark a few conversations with other people who can share even more tips!!!! And than you for sharing your comment!!!!! I hope that your project goes well! What are you working on that made you look into this again?
I got tip using plastic kitchen foil on under cap after use, it is easy to open after that
I smashed that like button the moment that mustang came around the corner on full-abuse mode.
LMAO, Thanks !!!!!
Discovering POR-15 ten years ago, it has been the only technique capable of maintaining my car indefinitely. My daily driver is 21 years old, and it gets the treatment every second year, before MOT. Not that I need to redo anything I did two years earlier, but one year I do the sills, next time the trailing arms, etc. and this car for the first time in 40 years messing with cars, do not progressively get more rusty every year! And it is a 90's Fiat notoriously known to be a rust magnet!
Wow, if that isn’t proof right there then I don’t know what is!!! I have been using it for years too! Its been keeping this 2006 Mustang GT alive since I got it!
I’m starting to restore my grandads ‘64 Chevrolet C 10. It has been sitting for twenty five years. I will be using this on my sentimental project. Thanks for the tips
This is a really good video. Love the simplistic approach and no nonsense instructions. Heading into the garage now to por15 a 57 F100 frame. Thanks!
I always loved the F100 ! How is it going ?
I own a 95 bmw e34 which has a notorious condition of getting rust on the bottom door seals. Been looking for the right stuff to do some treatment work and this video pretty much convinced me that por 15 will be the go to
How has it worked out?
I been snooping for vids on spraying this stuff. Used Por15 on my 03 marauder. Painted whole underside of car with gloss black. I’m kinda fussy so I lifted body off frame and prepped and painted all summer and it looks great but OMG painting it by hand took forever!
Yea, you’re not kidding! I have always done it by hand! Good ventilation and good music are equally important to keep going with a brush!
Great video, however I would HIGHLY recommend a respirator with the application of this even outdoors, the label is pretty strong in it's warning, and if you look at the chemicals and their by-products in POR15, I think you would agree: The vapor given off is "Dimethyl benzenes Xylens" and is pretty serious stuff.
Possibility of permanent organ or
organ system damage from prolonged exposure; Target organ(s): Central nervous system (CNS).
Kidney. Liver.
No sense fore fitting your left nut just so your car doesn't rust! :)
+Mark Strickland Hey, very good point! Thanks for sharing!
I love the way you put together the content. Including, prepwork, how to apply, where to use it and that it is not a magic, heal-forever-kind-of-fix. thx!
+ObsessionPC Thank you! I appreciate the input! Keeps me going! -Paul
I just heard about POR-15 and your video is perfect! I am looking at protecting some metal items around the house and in the garage along with working on an old Honda. I have refinished furniture and cabinets for years and doing metal is new for this old guy.
Thank you!
Hey, thanks for saying hello Nick! I grew up around carpentry too, which is my first love! But working with hand tools lead to my love for cars as well! I have been using POR-15 for a very long time with predictable results! I can usually tell when it will hold up and when it won’t! And that variation is largely due to how carefully I prep the metal! Take your time! Good luck and let me know how it works out for you!
Replacing the floors in an 87 Jeep Comanche and built a rectangular subframe inside while it’s open to stiffen the chassis up. I’m coating everything I can w POR15 to keep it around for many years and down the generations. Thanks for the video and keep having fun with the race cars!
Good luck! Sounds like a fun project! Always wanted a J20 or Wagoner! I would love to see the final product! Let me know how it works out and where I can see pics of the final product! Thanks for saying hello!
I got some por 15 on some new work pants, when I pants were worn out the spots were the por 15 spilled on never come out. Finally after a lot of welding and burning the pants up. They got thrown away with the por15 still on them... hands down the best paint for rust protection I’ve every use. Been a body an for 35 yrs
Yea, despite nothing being everlasting this stuff is as “permanent “ as it gets!
I've used this on 3 car restorations over several years. The floor boards had rust forming. This stuff stopped the rust from spreading. I checked the results on two of the cars 2 years later and the metal was still sealed.
How much do you have to prep? I understand the flakey stuff but how for do you have to go ? I’m a little confused as the product says Paint over Rust. Any info would be appreciated. Thank You
I usually just paint over the rust! Period! Yes, knock off the flakey stuff! The “prep” really is important with unseasoned metal. New metal has little texture to bond to and often has a film of oil on it to prevent rusting. The prep will degrease and etch the metal for your paint job. Rusty metal is easier 🤣 Hope that helps! Let me know what else you would like to know! I have been using this stuff for a while!
I’m starting the metal prep step tomorrow on my FJ80 Land Cruiser. I put days of work in grinding and sanding down all the frame. Hope it pays off. Rust is about the only thing that can stop that Cruiser so hopefully it gives the frame many more years and many more miles. Great video, thanks
+James B Good Luck James! Since you did grind off the rust please make sure to decrease and prep the metal! It is very important for your situation! And make sure you let me know how it works out! Also, read the instructions carefully because the fumes can be toxic! Good luck and thank you for saying hello!!!! -Paul
James B I'm here because of my 80 Series, too!
I guess the FJ80 is more popular than I thought!
mine turned out great...it really IS all about the prep work. can't do enough preparation.
Hey James, thanks for the update! Very glad to hear it! You’re exactly right- prep work is 90% of the work!
Working on a 1978 Vw bus. Used some on floor boards of a bug and worked great except where I didn’t realize I had a break line leak, but I don’t think anything would adhere to metal with any brake fluid on it anyway. Thanks for the tips.
Sounds about right! Glad to hear it worked as predicted and glad to share a few tips! Thanks for saying hello!!!
I have been using it for years. You mileage may vary!
I followed what you did to you mustang on my old 78 ford f150, now I am put a new clutch in my 92 Taurus sho I'm using POR on the sub frame and whatever else looks like it needs a dose!! thanks again!!
+Lee Reader My pleasure! I threw some in the frame also! Good luck with your Taurus! A '78 F150 - that's pretty cool! Thanks for saying hello!
Try couple days ago first time por15, seems to be great product.Got tip using plastic kitchen foil on under cap after use, it is easy to open after that.
Good video, straight to the point, honest assessment. I like the porcelain finish POR15 gives. Thanks for posting. 👍
Thank You !
My first project with it will be the frame on my FZJ80. It's a NJ truck (now located in FL) so it's got some rust. Good thing humidity helps it dry.
Good luck!! Let me know how it turns out!!!!
Finally a No BS video 👍🏼👍🏼
Thank you!
Great video 👍 I'm demolishing a 1985 5th wheel rv and reusing the trailer to build a "tiny house." Great information for my trailer prep
+Trace Glad to help! Let me know how it works out!
Nice. I have a lifted 96 gmc that's pretty sweet. Definitely need to paint everything underneath with this stuff, but I think I'll be fine just degreasing it. Rinsing it. Then paint.
When it comes to a working vehicle I have no OCD. Just make it work! Sounds to me like you know what you’re doing! I love using POR-15 but whatever gets the job done is whats best!
My 96 Chevy is stock but yes I need it to
Love the tips. Plus I love POR also. 68 Camaro just finished the skeleton. Great stuff and looks great even though you’ll never see it again. Lol
Yea, but YOU know it’s there 😁
You can buy it is the larger cans... just pour it into mason jars and keep the paint away from the cap and threads. The key to keeping it usable is to fill the jar above the paint with propane to displace the air before you seal the jar.
Good advice! I’ve used a plastic glove to do the same! Usually I will just wipe the lip clean with a rag then just pry it off with a screw driver! But it can be a pain in the butt to the-open if you don’t prep the lid before closing!
ramosel I've been using this stuff for 20 YEARS. I'm kind of a bed beg about paint and prep, but the easiest, no hassel way I have found to use this stuff is to never take the lid off. Punch a small hole in the top of the can. Tip the can and catch the leak with the brush, apply.
When finished, screw a tapered body bolt into the hole, flip the can to seal the threads.
I have tried breaking down into small containers, & the saran wrap lid trick. Both will result in a hardened shell of dried paint if stored for too long once opened.
I recently tried a can off the shelf that is at least 2yrs old with the bolt in the lid. Paint is still good, I tried pealing it off after a couple months.
This method is super easy, and often I find applications where I only need to use just a little bit while I am working under my car on something.
@@cruzinezy1968 brilliant idea. Glad I saw this comment.
I am just seeing this comment now too! That is an awesome idea! Reminds me of how I leave a decking screw in the caulk gun tube and then use the drill to back it out when I need to use it again! Never thought to do it with POR-15. Brilliant! Thanks for sharing the info. I usually wait till I have enough to paint that I need the whole can. But now I can use your trick and use as needed!
Thanks for the informative video. About to do a full restore of a set of NFab nerf bars on our Hummer H3. It has rust in the typical locations that plague the nfabs and their inferior (powder coating). Not sure that ill be doing any video of the process, but I'll definitely be taking photos as I go. Thanks again for all the pro tips everyone of you has provided.
My pleasure! Good luck! And, let me know where I can check out your pics of the before and after!
@@HazardSports @Ayewolnation on insta
I will check it out!
Account is private. So, just let me know how it works out !
Just send request, no worries.
I’m using this product to hit surface rust spots on my frame rail, trailer hitch, battery tray and underside of the car. A 1990 Volvo 740 turbo wagon.
Thats typically my favorite use for this stuff. Maintenance!! Sounds like a fun project! I love older cars! Looking for a 60’s era Power Wagon! That should be fun!
Dad put together a 76 squarebody back in the late 80s and it sat since 95 with exception of me tinkering with it a bit in the early 2000s. Well now we yanked it out of the woods and I'm starting to tear it down need to coat the frame and such.
Sounds like a fun project! Definitely a challenge after sitting in the woods. It’s probably going to take much more prep work than I have ever done! Let me know how it works out!
Great tips! I'm doing research before doing my 66 mustang, floorboards, frame rails, the area around the MC. Thanks!
My pleasure! Glad to help!
Best Video Yet on Por 15
+Mitchell Oglesby Thank you very much! I hope you have lots of success with it if you decide to use it! Thanks for saying hello! I appreciate it!
Do it yourself private dirt track and late model race car! You got to love this dude. I would like to see more laps and cars here.
+Carl Campbell LOL, thank you! I try my best to get out and enjoy life! I don't race often at all and don't have the best equipment but when I can - I do! Wish I could race more but I am always on the hunt for an adventure! This year has been a bit light on adventure but I did have the most epic wildlife experience in my life! I was face to face with a massive black bear. I am putting up a video with footage of the bear hopefully this week (if I get the time). Thanks you saying hello! I am glad I entertained you just a bit!
Hello Hazard - Yes that is a wicked little Mustang you have there alright. I am a die hard dirt racing fan and attend the races here in So CA at the Ventura Raceway. They have Sprinters, Midgets, Stocks and Bikes there. My brother who lives in an an agricultural area in the So Bay Area of CA has a neighbor (Dean Nelson) who also has a dirt track on his property to test his Sprint car. It is very cool for gear heads, but needless to say other locals are hostile about the very loud noise (too funny).
+Carl Campbell Carl, I have only been to California three times. The last time was during a Vegas trip for SEMA. I love it out there! You guys have the best car culture in the country! That clip of me in the dirt was at a friends place in Ohio! I wish I had something like that setup on my property! Maybe someday! -Paul
Well Hazard, it sure has been great fun alright over the years with the car hobby and racing. If I can digress and become philsopical for a moment, I would just say that if I had to do it over again, I would try to make the gear head things for family fun and mentoring. I do not know how old you are and if you are married or have a family. I confess, I was pretty much selfish / self centered with cars and several other things when the kids were young.
+Carl Campbell I am married and we have been trying to have our first baby, (a little late in life). I hope to do like you described, using my love for Mechanic and Woodworking something to share / mentor with. But all you can do is try and do your best! I am sure that's what you are doing now and You sound like a genuine guy!!! Give yourself some credit because that's a rare thing these days!
restoring a b4000 using POR-15 thank you for the advice
No problem! Next summer I have to do a complete pass through on the underbody of my Jeep WK2 . It has 154,000 mi on it and it’s time to slow down and prevent rust if I plan to get another 154,000 miles out of it! Good luck!
Great video short and informative, I agree prep is key, I use POR-15 on my restorations and yes it could get messy if not careful, for reusing I secure a wire in the center of container for the brush and mask the rim just in case (always clean rim before lid back on), Thanks
Hey, another good idea! Thanks for sharing with everyone here!!! And thanks for saying hello!!!
Superb video dude! Simple yet most informative content 👍
Thank you!
What a great video. Wish all my product searches were this true. Thanks Much
My pleasure! Thanks for saying hello!!!
Very helpful. I have seen other criticize the product for not sticking but they do not stress the three step process as you do. I am working on the underbody of a 1978 Fiat Spider that had rubberized undercoating on it. I have removed 90% of it with heat and mechanical stripping. I am assuming, I need to remove all of the old undercoating to get to metal before starting any prep work? Is that true? If so, there are too many nooks and crannies to get into and I am planning on media blasting first. Do you agree?
How is that Fiat coming along ?
Picked up 71 riviera yesterday and will get back to you with updates. Vinyl roofs on automobiles? What a bad call
Definitely was a bad idea !
GREAT VIDEO & keep up the good work, have fun & stay safe. I bought a new truck few days ago. Could I paint this underneath the truck directly or should i etch the new metal somehow? Will this stuff stick to new metal that's clearcoated etc
Thanks a million, nice job on the video.
Now...how do we get a spin in that Mustang?
Is the co-driver Niall Burns from Sligo?
+Ciaran Ward my pleasure, glad to help! Yes, Nial did co-drive for us at STPR 2015! Awesome guy! Very professional!
Tip: Put saran wrap around the lid then close it, then open it right back up no problems.
One other person said that too! Sounds like a great tip! Thanks for sharing! I usually just get a monster flat head screwdriver and pry pry pry!
Short and informative. Just what I was looking for. Thanks!
+Daniel Anghelescu My pleasure Daniel! Glad to help! -Paul
thank you for the video I have heard lots of POR and now I understand what the fellas were talking about and hey I hardly ever leave my house other than work but if I knew I could see you do what you do with that mustang I would for sure show up!!!!
+heydude76 Thanks! Very kind of you to say! Good luck if you use POR15. Let me know how it works out for you! Not one of those jobs that you can rush!
well things went perfect on my 1978 ford f150 the frame and rear diff looked their age with some wire wheeling and wire brushing and a good dose of POR holy shit it looks better than I thought it would, you have really helped me out thanks for the video!!!
+heydude76 That's great news! I am glad to help! Let me know if there is something else you would like me to cover!
That was cool loved the video of you flying in your mustang
Thank you! I appreciate that! I actually JUST posted an awards ceremony video at an event I was volunteering at (NEPA Rally Sprint) and at the very end of the video (at 12:20) as part of a teaser outro for my Channel you can see inside car footage of us jumping the Mustang at New York Forest Rally 2020. Let me know what you think 🤣
@@HazardSports I'll see if i can find it and I'll definitely let you know
restoring a 1980 Mack cement mixing truck, will send you photos when complete. Doing most of truck in POR-15
Cant wait to see !
Try rust encapsulator from eastwood much less prep
I’ve got F-250 plow truck with pretty severe “surface” rust on all frame members. How much prep and por should I need to do a thorough job? Thanks. Great informative and detailed video!
The Mustang Frame took 2 of the small cans. I imagine the F250 would take more. Probably best to just buy a 6 pack like me. No harm in having extra!
Thanks for the simple explanation! Think I have OCD and I’m scared to attempt a some tasks for the risk of messing it up this gives me confidence thx! Got my truck repainted in spring just need to make the underside look good! (Rear axle, frame as much as I can reach, front suspension etc.)
Should I do top coat on suspension?
Are you doing this to keep it functional or are you looking for a show car finish?
@@HazardSports ideally show car finish but just all that’s visible I baby the truck haha
Thanks for the video tips!
I'm redoing the back half of the frame and suspension on my 1985 GMC K1500.
I'm using the 3 steps on the frame and bracketry, finishing with the black POR15.
Other parts, I'm using the cleaner/degreaser, and the metal prep, but I'm only finishing it with a rattle can because I know I'll be replacing these parts in the next 5-10 years, or they're easily unbolted and accessible to redo them if they need it.
Question:
Will the rattle can paint bond to the parts after the metal prep?
Or is that base POR15 specific?
Hope that was clear. 🤔
Thanks again!
Thanks I'm Refurbishing and Upgrading a 1992 Airstream from the frame up. I am grinding off as much rust as possible and then I intend to use POR-15. I appreciate your video. Be safe.
That’s sounds like a big job! I hope you’re taking plenty of pictures! I am glad that I could help and happy that you said hello! Best of luck to you and please let me know how it works out for you!
This might be a stupid question...I want to use it for the quarter panels right by the wheel wells..do I need to strip the paint?
If the rust is forming underneath the paint then YES! Because POR-15 has to bond to the rust and seal it off directly. If the rust had patches of paint in or near it then I would also because the rust will travel.
@@HazardSports awesome thanks for replying so fast!!
You got it! Good luck! Let me know how it works out!
Thanks for the help I got a 98 amigo and the bottom has rust and I would hate to loose it while it has low mileage
If you can paint directly over rust do I still have to prep the undercarriage w the 2 liquids you used?
You DEFINITELY have to degrease the rust first (from road contamination and such). The metal etch is for new or unseasoned metal!
I’m redoing a 81 camaro with a lot of trunk rust I’m replacing most but some I don’t want to deal with so I was thinking about using this stuff
Tough call. A lot of variables to consider. Condition of the metal you’re leaving in place and amount of weight you plan to store in the trunk.
All I do is put the lid on loosely and then put the can in the freezer. But first I am very careful dipping the brush in the can not to get the paint on the lid seal. And before lightly placing lid onto can for storage in freezer, I use 90% rubbing alcohol to clean any bit that might be in the crack. I also put the brush in a cereal bag and stick it into the freezer. This keeps the Por15 from setting up. The air in a freezer is very dry and cold. I buy the quart size cans.
Very interesting freezer technique! I totally get it but too paranoid about the food in the freezer- even though everything is “sealed” and there should be little to no vapors as the paint wont be evaporating! But it would still tick in the back of my head - what about the food 😳
@@HazardSports It is so freezing cold, there is no odor, the chemicals are retained in the can and bag holding the brush.
Oh I believe you!
@@HazardSports An interesting thing is that frozen can, the por15 is just as liquid as at room temp, no need to wait for it to warm before painting. Any thing moisture cured, like polyurethane construction adhesive, 3M 5200 or silicone gasket maker, I put in the freezer and it prevents it from hardening. So you can buy a tube of 5200, and it will last for ever after opening. No one can smell a thing.
Wow, thats pretty crazy! Didn’t think about that! And never heard of 5200 - I have to look into that!
I'm Rebuilding a 84 S10 Blazer from the Ground up and I just Washed & Degreased the Frame today, The Frame is pretty Rusty, But not rusted thru, So I bought some POR 15 & Top Coat for it, I'm also thinking about doing the inside of the Frame Rails too bc they look pretty Rusty as well, If your interested in checking out my Project I've got some videos on my Channel...
I will definitely check it out!
@@HazardSports Ok Cool, I'm actually working on Editing the Video from yesterday now, It's Exporting so it might be a little while before I actually get it uploaded Lol
"Welcome back everybody"
Bold of you to assume I've ever been here in the first place lol
Welcome back Gear1993Head - being that you are reading this 😂🤣.
Sorry, that welcome back was for the few subscribers that follow me. I guess for you a standard “Welcome” would be more appropriate! Thanks for saying hello - and I hope to welcome you back again sometime!
Have a good day fellow Gear Head !
@@HazardSports just fucking with ya man lol
Awesome video!!! I appreciate your economy of time and information! You've sold me on this stuff for my Jeep.
Thanks for the comment!!! Let me know how it works out!
Love the video man! Short and to the point with no mucking about. Quick question for you though, when I do the POR15 Top Coat, how would I go about that? Should I scuff the surface, apply some sort of adhesion promoter, or just spray top coat directly? I'm dubious about scuffing the paint cause I'm doing the undercoating of my 63 Thunderbird and want to make sure I have as much material underneath protecting the body. I read some places that you can spray directly on, and other people say you gotta have a promoter coat. But if I don't need it, then I don't want to spend the extra money. If you have any insight, that would be awesome. Thanks!
Any time I used a top coat I would apply it when the base paint was still tacky. Now POR-15 has a “top coat” paint that is DTM (Direct To Metal). I never used it before. And since I have had success with the original POR-15 I get a little shy on trying something new. If it completely dries then scuffing it lightly is what I would do. But I would call POR-15 and ask them directly. Any time I had to call them they were very helpful. If you find out something else please come back and share! Thank you and good luck!
Plus,I am working on a 99 E46 that i am building into kinda pro drift car.Strip the interior,cage it,more hp and a looot of stuff
That sounds like a lot of fun!
Re framing my 1997 k1500. This will definitely help me
Good Luck!
Let me know how it works out!
quick question (and thank you for the video) ..If I am only doing inner fender aprons, frame, etc...would I need the topcoat ? I mean those are not exactly "sunlight pieces"...thanks in advance
If it’s never exposed to light - I wouldn’t bother! But that’s my opinion! This stuff holds up really well!
Great video, thank you for posting. Bought a can of this today but the cleaner/degreaser and metal prep were not available. So far i chipped away all the flaky bits and used Castrol Superclean on the pieces. Can you give any suggestion as to what else i could do to ensure best adhesion ?
+TheCanadianBubba Honestly, I have used this stuff a lot over the years! Any seasoned metal with rust on it that I have painted with no prep has lasted me a long long time! However, that's not the recommended way to use the paint! The prep is extremely important, especially for new metal. New bare metal is definitely something you don't want to paint without prep work! That's where you will find your most trouble! Good luck and let me know how it works out!
Thank you for the quick response, i am posting this and other work on my channel as well
Rubbing alcohol
Great video I wonder if you can skip the prep steps by using Mirotic acid. Since it etches metal. I might try it this weekend. On my 81 f100. Not to rusty for a PA vehicle but would like to keep it that way. thanks
How did it go?
@@HazardSports had to push it off another week or so I'll update when I get to do it
Great video! Using POR15 on my channel recently as well and love it! Cant wait to put it to the test and see how long it lasts! Keep beating on that stang! Looks hella fun 👍
Thank you! I’ll be sure to check out your channel to see how do you use this crazy paint!
@@HazardSports that would be awesome! Im restoring a first generation RX7 and its coming along nicely. Refinished some suspension and the differential housing and this stuff is solid! Maybe overkill on the prep work but i want to make sure this car will last 👍
Very straight-forward and helpful, really appreciate the video!!
+Brent Stewart Thank you! Glad to help!
The u channel on the jack stand is a sfety
Very well made and fun video. Thanks for the info, just what i needed. Awesome Race Car too.. !!!
My pleasure! Thanks for saying hello!!
I LOVE POR! Been using for a few yrs now. I just wish it wasn't so damn expensive..😒
It works.
Worth every penny.
I've bought a load of this stuff to paint a chassis for a Jaguar E-type kit car that I've stripped right down.
It's taking forever to grind the chassis down however.
I can't clean and paint as is as it has loads of rubbery goo and old paint covering a large amount of.
I'm tired of grinding 😭
Some people use dry ice to freeze the rubberized coating then use an air hammer / chisel to blast it off
Very interesting ...love the narrator's voice
+DeerWhisperer7 Thank you!
Forbear metal muriatic acid and spray scrubbing bubbles over the acid while still wet rinse about 10-15 minutes later looks like it was sandblasted I wish I could post pictures also no fumes and cheep the scrubbing decreases at the same time try it. will not take the old paint off.
Sounds like you have a solid system!
helpful video! question, you ever try the spray can? Getting a 94 GT that doesn't seem to be rust coated . have you driven on salted roads? and when you said "a long time " how long ?
+ursixx I never tried the spray can but one thing I would caution you about would be to take you time masking and taping because overspray will be a nightmare to deal with. This car spent most of its time at the shoreline of the east coast (NY/NJ) and the salt "in the air" as well as humidity are both known to reek havoc in the form of rust and corrosion. The areas of the rear axel that I painted back in 2006 remained rust and corrosion free without putting any more paint until this year (to cover the entire axel). Good luck with your 94!
Working on my LX570, frame rust. Roughly removed the crumbs, then degreased-rinse-metal prep - rinse, then it got dark and humid, couldn’t do shit. Now I’m worried when it’s gonna stop raining so I can apply POR15
Should be ok as long as it’s not raining so hard that the rain is splattering up contaminants back onto your prepped surfaces! And also remember that humidity makes PO-15 paint dry faster so that could either help or hurt you depending on what your trying to do!
Good informative video. No annoying musical crap in the background.
Thank You
Really good video.
+Eskil Winstedt Thank you.
Can you paint this stuff over old paint? Or does it have to be down to bare metal? I’m restoring a 92 civic hatchback and I’ve dealt with por 15 before and it’s great stuff! But that was 20 years ago almost. Thanks for the video btw
Thats a good question and I don’t see the answer in their website. But I do know that they are very friendly and helpful over the phone. I would call them at 1-800-457-6715 or tel:+1-973-887-1999.. I know that I have painted over paint but thats after prepping, and it was never over anything that was a “show piece” and had to be perfect. As long as it stopped the rust I didn’t pay much attention to appearance! So it would be interesting what they tell you. Please let us all know what they tell you!
Thanks for the video! I have some rust above my wheel well on the outside of my car. I did the metal prep, POR 15 coating, and also applied a top coat. Is there anything else I should do? About how long does it take to dry? Thanks.
Jack It dries pretty quick as long as you applied thin coats. Even faster when it is humid! If you put on a thick glob of paint it could take a while. i try to paint when I can let it sit for a few days; but thats overkill. Let me know how it works out!
Thanks for the info, and I have one more question if that's ok. Will POR hold up to scratches and can it be buffed or polished if need be? Just curious because it's on the exterior of my car.
It’s marketed as “tough as nails” but I never used it in exterior. You said you have a top coat over it so I am sure that is most vulnerable. Good to have paint on top cause POR15 doesn’t do well exposed to UV light. The only issues I have seen with POR15 are when the metal isn’t prepped and rinsed : dried properly- then it will peel over time. But since you did the prep you shouldn’t have a problem with it. Feel free to call the company directly- they are very helpful!
VERY INFORMATIVE VIDEO; I have a 70 chevy rusted out rocker; I was wondering if it,e possible to apply Por 15 and when dry fill using metal and dyna glas filler?? and advice appreciated; THANK,S PJP
I haven’t seen it used as filler but I would suggest calling the company that makes POR-15 and ask what they recommend! Then let us all know what you find out!
@@HazardSports I, 'LL let you know how it works !! or does,nt ?? pjp
😂
Good Luck !
I have a question when I fully remove all rust from car and is shiny metal can I first put the POR15 then primer it then paint to prevent rust?
I would still definitely use Metal Prep
@@HazardSports Thanks for the advice 👏🤗
Always wanted to ask: can you rust-convert with Corroseal, instead of the metal prep, & put POR on the Corroseal?
I am not familiar with Corroseal.
Yea the metal edging stuff i was wondering about, when I send my car the raised parts turn silver metal
🧐?
@@HazardSports sorry my phone types funny
No worries. I just didn’t understand 🤣
Any tips for when you have to get under the vehicle?
Jackstands are the only thing I trust. Jacks (hydraulic or mechanical) will fail eventually!
Little tip to avoid lids sticking to the cans: put the lid inside a plastic bag and close the container.
@@maxburner3500 thats a good tip! Thanks for sharing! I take the gloves that I am wearing off and wrap them around the can. It wraps tightly- just like shrink wrap. It has worked well for me over the years!
Good tips because I was wondering how to use this stuff. Also has anyone told you you sound like Uncle June from The Sopranos
LOL, thats funny!
Glad I could help! Thanks for saying hello!
My glass guy used POR 15 to patch some rust around my front windshield and I just might do the same thing for the rest of my car lol
Nice! Good luck!!!
trying to make my foxbody look better lol thanks for help
My pleasure! Good luck! Let me know how it works out!
I would appreciate if you could help me: what is the ideal weather or temperature to use POR15 Rust Preventative? Would it be a good idea to use in a 100 degree weather?
I used it again the other day in a project. It was a very humid day. Before I was done with the first coat the paint was hardening in the brush. I was using the brush continuously yet it was hardening that fast (hours). Non- stop 2 coats took me 2 brushes over the span of 5hrs. Thin coats. This paint dries super fast in humidity. The temperature is less important. When I use other automotive paints I prefer hot sunny days to heat up the metal and let the paint bake in the sun. Two different animals.
I want to use POR 15 but i just layed down 2 coats of rust converter. Could I still use por 15???
I'd like this answer as well.
@@kjmckeown I didnt use the por 15 but I see no problem using it after rust converter. Just make sure the converter is cured
I never used rust converter before using POR-15 so I couldn’t say for sure. Let me know how it works out so I can share with others.
Sorry for the late response! I have never used a rust converter before POR-15 so I couldn’t say how well it worked. If you find out then please let me know! Thank You!
Redoing a surface rusted truck frame, not pitted badly some original paint still there. Will wire wheeling it off be enough before prep and paint? I'd rather not sand blast but want longest lasting results.
I would still use the metal prep solution before you paint it! The people at POR-15 are very helpful if you would like to call them for a detailed explanation.
@@HazardSports thanks for your reply! I do have the metal prep as well. I spent the day yesterday stripping the frame and it's looking pretty good. I may reach out to Por15 just to double check. Thanks!
On the places that do get sun, did you wait till it got tacky and then applied a top coat or did you wait till it was fully dried and sand it down. Going to paint someone thing on my 94 Bronco, wanted to know the best way to apply the top coat. First time using por 15,
You’re supposed to do it when its tacky. I didn’t even top coat because this car isn’t exactly a show piece! But you’re 100% right - areas exposed to the sun need a top coat!!!
Can POR15 be topcoated with Epoxy primer?
Hi there , can you not use a Spry gun to spry it instead of a brush ?
And the protection lasts for how many years ?
You could spray it on but it needs to be thinned out. Protection is supposed to be permanent but I am sure that nothing is permanent! So depends in the harsh conditions the paint is subjected to or lack there of!
About that topcoat on pieces in direct sunlight, do you need to use a primer first, or can you just paint right over the POR15?
You can paint directly over POR15. As long as your top coat is paint and not clear coat you should be good! If you prepped the metal and painted POR15 properly then the top coat is your weak link as it is exposed t the environment. For the top coat just follow the recommendations for that paint. Not sure if you did multiple layers with wet sanding in between or what your specific needs or application call for. Again, I am no paint expert but just have some personal experience with POR15
It's good to note that you don't want to put this over old paint. So for my frame, I'm sanding down to bare metal first
They say it doesn’t matter right? You can just paint over the rust.
@@guusberkhof8429 I think you just have to hit any old paint with 320 grit before applying POR15. I wanted really good adhesion so I just stripped it. The por15 only becomes as strong as the paint that’s on it if you don’t.
I agree, the old paint is the problem. Rust alone has been no problem for me as long as you degrease and rinse it properly!
I am working on a 1978 ford f250 custom. I bought the six pack but I am not sure if it will do it all.
How did it go? Did you end up needing more ?
@HazardSports I believe I ended up using about 3.5 cans for the frame and 1.5 for the rear axle and all the little parts. It turned out really good. Highly recommend. New video coming soon it will show the finished product.
@sallyscustomworkshop4128 Sounds like the 6 pack was perfect. Post the link to your video here so I can check it out!
Does caliper paint (VHT caliper spraypaint) adheres to a bit of rust or do I absolutely have to have my calipers sandblasted ?
Looking for the right coating for repainting my crawl space
Is it metal ?
Awesome sir
Thank You Sir
How about painted wheel wheels
Prefer do add additional protection priorbt poo nany rust now that vehicle is in ne and facing first winter
Por clear over the metal etch but metal etch ruins the paint color ? so what is clear good for or can I uae directly on cleaned paint
I just received
Clear
Black
And top coat
And metal prep
And degreaser
+Finn Green I have only applied POR-15 to bare metal (new & rusted). I have never painted over paint with it and I don’t think you can with predictable results. But, I certainly don’t know! What I can tell you is that I have called the company before and they are very helpful and take time to explain things to you! Give them a call and let them know you’ve seen our video (please). Let me know how it works out for you!
I'm in the process of restoring a 1978 IH scout II and about to paint most of it with por-15.and then paint over it with Herculiner. So my question is once the por-15 dries what would you think the best way to apply the herucliner would be???
+CHUCK COHENOUR That's a good question! My guess is before it completely dries while POR-15 is still tacky; or, scuff the surface so the Herculiner can bind to it. But, the best person to ask would be someone at POR-15. They are located out of Long Island NY and very friendly. They have been very helpful to us so let them know we referred you. Here is the number: 800-457-6715. But don't call today because we are having a blizzard in NY right now. They didn't get hit as bad as we did upstate but I think most businesses shut down today! (Getting some good footage for my next video though - LOL). Let me know what they recommend so I can share the info with others!
I called POR-15 and they said that after I painted the POR-15 and it became tacky, that would be the time to paint the Herculiner over the POR-15 so that it would stick. If not then I would have to wait 24 hours and use sandpaper to scuff it up to paint the POR-15 over it.. Any questions just send me a message..
+CHUCK COHENOUR Yup, exactly what I guessed but dont know the herculiner product specifically to know if there were any special considerations! Thank you very much for the update and comfirmation! Let me know how your project works out for you!
Will do,thanks for getting back to me.
+CHUCK COHENOUR My pleasure!
I live in Texas so we don't really get bad rust problems down here. however I would still like to do the undercarriage of my 2011 F250. My undercarriage isn't full of rust and the majority of the factory paint is intact. What steps would you recommend to prep the surface to get a long lasting coating of the por15 before it peels?
+Daniel Robinson Honestly Daniel, if the factory paint is still intact I would just leave it alone! If you have areas that are peeling I would just treat those areas! Pull the flakes off, use the degreaser, then the metal prep, then paint! That’s my opinion. -Paul
i might use this on my trailer
+Roy Nelson For a trailer that gets banged around and abused I definitely would!
Right on man 4 sure and thanks