Ultimate Undercoating for the Rust Belt - Converting Rusty Truck Frame to Salt Water Warrior
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 พ.ค. 2024
- Rust Kutter Spray Bottle - amzn.to/3DBI3Cg
Rust Kutter Gallon - amzn.to/3dtkqRQ
Surface Shield Gallon - amzn.to/3DTc9l9
Surface Shield Spray Cans - amzn.to/3BuMA6N
Undercoating spray Gun - amzn.to/3SjtN5w
Rust Reformer Black Spray Paint (FLAT) - amzn.to/3ScsANL
Purple Power Degreaser - amzn.to/3LG8oRX
Converting my 2001 Toyota Tacoma truck frame from rusty to a salt water warrior. If metal is exposed to air/ water and other elements, it will rust. Creating a barrier will prevent rust from occurring and stop rust that is already there. First, I used a few rust removing tools to get rid of as much rust as possible. I then used a degreaser to get any other grit and grime off the frame. Then I power washed the frame. I used RUST KUTTER to transform the rust (literally a chemical reaction occurring) and leaving the metal with a paintable surface. I used rust reformer paint then to coat the frame. I went over everything using Surface Shield to assure no more rust! My truck is now ready for the harsh roads in the salt belt. - บันเทิง
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Manual descaling. Then Corroseal. Goes on like milk or wood glue, turns black, takes 24 hours. ($100.00 per gallon) then Rust Oleum primer, then Rust Oleum High Gloss enamel. Same effect. I did use White Rust Oleum enamel around the inside of the frame to track any further rusting. Ranger frames have one side open. Yep. Corroseal. Works Great. Thank you for this.
Here in Canada, rust proofing products are rediculously expensive so I started making my own. Using a drill powered paint mixer, mix one 400 g tube of Valvoline grease with two quarts of chain saw bar and chain oil. Spray with a comprressed air undercoating sprayer.
That’s interesting- I’ve heard of grease and atf… I guess that’s similar to vasoline and bar chain oil!
I’ve heard that PB blaster undercoating outperforms all rustoleum products at preventing new rust and inhibiting old rust
How well does that mixture spray? My 5 gallon bucket of fluid film is almost empty, and I'm not going to spend the money on that product. I was also going to use bar oil...mixing in grease sounds great if it will spray okay. I have the fluid film gun that has the long wand to get into tight spaces.
It sprays well with any cheep undercoating gun. If not, just thin slightly with paint thiner. The thiner will evaporate off leaving the coating.
how much psi is needed for your mix ?
It depends on your sprayer. Using a inexpensive Princes Auto (think Harbor Freight in the states) sprayer, I use 70 to 80 PSI. I want to blast the covering into crevices.
I'm impressed. Way more detail-oriented than I ever was. I merely get under the F150 every fall and paint on bar-and-chain oil. Let it soak into the surface rust and everything.
I'm sure this is a better fix than what I've done, but 28 Pennsylvania winters in my F150 and it's been "good enough." Just a heads-up that even halfassing it is far better than doing nothing.
Nope, way to much manual labor. Impressive on your part. I learned the hard way that Transmission fluid is a superb under body coating. I had a Transfer case shell out going down the interstate. Transmission fluid covered everything rear ward. That part of my vehicle never rusted out. Everything not coated turned to dust.
I agree with bcubed.. doing SOMETHING can help greatly. Used oil, Diesel, Tranny fluid, Fluid Film.
@@Milkman3572000you can do that, or just paint the frame good once, spray that on later in winter if you’re gonna have a bad winter. I have a 2006 with a completely factory coated frame still no rust, no need to do that imo unless you never clean the truck or have an insane amount of salt on the roads
Just did my silverado in bar and chain oil. Never tried it before. Does it hold up all winter and not wash off?
@@jeremyniles2676 depends on where you’re at and what your city uses for deicer. If you have mild winters then yeah, harsh winters? No
Old timer years ago told me to mix Diesel with used motor Oil, shake it up and lay it on with a pump sprayer or compressor. He said it will drain into all the cracks and crevices that water does and protect it. He ran a Square Body dually with a Mason bed on it until he passed. 1986 GMC almost rust free for 20 years in Connecticut Winters. My go to for rust prevention, cheap and used oil is free
If it’s cheap and it works !!!! 💯💯💯
I have been using a rust converter called Corroseal. It can be painted on, it's not poisonous and it leaves a beautiful black finish, but it still needs to be top coated. And it is water cleanup. So because I don't have a lift this is perfect for me.
You said it was acid . You were shocked it took off paint and clearcoat...Ummm..
I just seen the part and said this word for word 💀
I used to get under my 97 Sierra and scrape and wire brush and repaint and it just kept rusting and flaking off. Finally started shooting Fluid Film underside that was the answer to keep the truck on the road. Sometimes I heat it on a hot plate and put in shavings of paraffin (an old candle works) and shot it while it's warm. That's been the best thing so far.
Similar here. I'm experimenting for long time. Go see if you want "10 year of using cold galvanizing". At end we all come to Valvoline and Cosmoline.
Pull the plugs from the rockers and doors, spray fluid film inside and also remove taillight to treat inside wheel house of the bed.
Pro tip 👊🏻
Having owned a beautiful but rusty 2001 Tacoma, this is the most satisfying video ever!
Awesome job! You've done everything that is reasonably possible to do on an older vehicle to preserve the frame. Brush painting the frame everywhere that you can reach with a brush with Rust-o-leum will apply a thicker coat of paint and then follow up with the spray cans to reach anywhere that the brush couldn't and it might save a few bucks on paint. Been hearing great things about Surface Shield, but although we have a number of products by PB Blaster available in Canada, I haven't been able to find the Surface Shield product anywhere.
Ace hardware or home Depot
@@antinazi1959 No. PB Blaster "Penetrant" oil is available at Home Depot, but PB Blaster "Surface Shield" is not available in stores, or online at Home Depot, or at ACE Hardware in Canada.
Nice job. Definitely remember to get inside the fenders and tailgate. There are small squares under the rocker panels that allow you to save the rockers. There's about 10 on each side.
Well done - always nice to see a 1st gen Tacoma get new life. Also, using the Surface Shield in the gallon format is WAY better than the cans. I went the can route and it was a nightmare - they clog up after about 20 seconds of spraying and the nozzle needs to be taken apart and cleaned out. Always go with the gallon and a sprayer!
Can't believe they still haven't solved the spray can issue after all these years. Pathetic effort by the company.
I use corraseal with a pump sprayer...do it every fall before plow season...it works good depending on how thick and the temperature outside when I do it...alot of spots I don't have to do it again but I do anyways...it turns a dark black when it's done it's thing
excellent demonstration
Excellent job and great tutorial! Thanks!
Wow, what a process! Great job on staying meticulous. Don’t think you”ll ever see rust on that baby!
Thanks! Yea thorough jobs seem to last the longest. I’ve learned taking my time saves me time lol.
Dude, you are the man... thank you for this video. Gotta do this on my 06 F150, has about the same amount of rust that your vehicle HAD. lol
Thats a hell of a job
Nice work. Inspiring me to get to work!
I just grinded and put phosphoric acid prior to undercoating on ONE cross member of my pickup's frame and it took me closer to three hours and I was covered with dust after that. I can't even comprehend how someone could do the entire frame at once. Thank god the previous owner had it undercoated before me so it's almost rust free from the front to the rear of the cabin and only the parts sandblasted by the rear tires are rusting
The lesson here,don't let it get this far before you rust proof.Good job.
Exactly!!! It’s easy/affordable to do!
Awesome video!!! would you reccomend going straight to the blaster shield after the rust kutter or spraying the rust oleum after the rust kutter, looking to this real soon
From the feedback I’ve gotten, you can go from the kutter to the pb blaster.. this job is still holding up super good tho with applying the rustolium then kutter.. lookin clean
Lanolin based undercoating products like Fluid Film and Wool Wax can be sprayed directly on rust, and if reapplied every couple of years will stop the rust cold.
No need to do the de-rusting treatment which may cause more problems than it solves.
Fluid film sucks. Surface shield is definitely better
I use Fluid Film and love it.
@@stevenh4970 LOL... Otay....
@@stevenh4970
I will admit that from tests I have seen, that Surface Shield leaves a durable film even after the lanolin has worn off.
That said, my 2018 model Chicago based car which has been Fluid Filmed three times, looks almost like a new car underneath.
So, I wouldn't say that it sucks exactly.
your giving me some motivation! looks great good work
Thank you very much for your video. I am up in Alaska, and I intend to follow a very similar route. My process is looking like this:
1. Wash/degrease
2. Knock off the chunks of rust/grind
3. Wash and break clean
4. Rust kutter
5. Rinse
6. Rust kutter
7. Rinse
8. Rustoleum clean metal primer (I spoke with Rustoleum and they said if you are converting before hand and you will have mostly converted/bare metal then you should use this primer as it will still handle some rust if you missed any, and it will give the enamel better adhesion)
9. Rustoleum professional protective enamel
10. Herculiner roll-on bedliner (specifically excels at deflecting rock-chips in cold climates per project farm)
11. Following, In the frame rails and behind pinch welds/seams I intend to use rust kutter at step 4 and then follow that up with fluid film after step 11 (a product i wouldn't use anywhere else because it grosses me out)
Thanks again for making this very thorough video.
Nice!!
Great tutorial! Was there anything you made sure to not cover in the surface shield or rust cutter? I saw brief glimps of what looked like butcher paper covering some things. I am a little weary of getting anything on my breaks
I only taped things off when painting. I didn’t intentionally spray cables and stuff but didn’t tape them either..
Great job! It’s well worth it to do it correctly.
No. That white color is saying you need to neutralize the acid and rinse the white residue off. The white residue will cause adhesion issues.
Nice video. The gas tank on my car recently fell on the ground after filling it up at a gas station. Someone was calling me on my cell phone and I pulled into a space while in the gasoline station. While I was parked and attending to my phone I heard a noise. I thought someone had thrown something at my car or may be a tire hit my car from the highway. I saw nothing. So I got back in the car. I did not jump on the highway right away which was next to the gasoline station. After a while I started up the car and someone got behind my car while I had it in reverse. I did not in a million years think that I would be dragging my gas tank. It really freaked me out. I called me insurance and a tow truck came and put those pulling straps to hold it. They could not move it because it was full of gasoline. So they had to use a small flat jack to lift it up. The straps held it in place. I am thinking about putting a long metal flat bar attached to the chassis with Chrome screws to prevent the tank from falling again. The tank is sitting upright in a vertical position in front of the trunk. Death was following me, but God was on my side I guess. For those who have have not had this happened to them CHECK underneath that the gas tank is secure from those metal straps as well as the fuel lines and brake lines, especially if your car is old and has rust. Do not ignore the rust. We are used to just checking under the hood, but if you are living in the north you are at risk because of the rust. I hope I have saved lives with this information. Get undercoating and clean that rust before it spreads like a cancer. It can be very very dangerous and serious, especially if you have family riding in your car. This is serious stuff. Thank you for sharing your video with us.
💯💯💯 I won’t buy or even go look at a car/truck without first seeing pics of the underbody. Most people don’t look and could care less. But it’s a big deal.
Great tip. Great, no B.S. presentation. Thanks for sharing & thanks for adding the links.
What kind of air compressor setup is that? I’m looking to get an air gun setup for undercoating and need some advice.
I admire your tenacity. Everything you did won't prevent rust from forming, undercoating needs to be done with oil, specifically, Husqvarna bar and chain oil, if you heat it up you can spray it into every crack and crevice, it's the only thing that works in the rust belt.
Wow! just wow!!!
You have a lot of patience my friend. Very, VERY impressive man.
I have a 2012 "dead-mint" Ram 1500 Sport. I just had it completely sprayed with "corrosion-free". After doing the entire undercarriage, they also sprayed inside the frame, rockers, door panels, inside tailgate etc ... From what I can gather, "krown" was rated #1 (forever) until just a few years ago. I hear they are now rated #2 with "corrosion-free" being the top dog, but now I'm wondering if I should've taken the time to do the same amazing job that you did to your truck BEFORE I got undercoated. Man that's impressive bud. Awesome job!
What are the odds of you posting a "1 year later" vid?
You have over 175,000 views so I'm sure that 1,000's would love to see it. I know I would!
If yours was dead-mint I’m assuming your frame was super good! I wouldn’t worry about doing everything I did, just use your preference best undercoating spray and call it good! I would update but I ended up selling it.. A guy flew in from Montana , 20 ours away from me and bought it. On the search now for my tundra.. I’m not loaded so my price range is like 15K. I’ve been looking for weeks and they’re all rusty!! If more people would just spray their frames from the get go, we would all be able to save some money. I’ll probably end up flying to Texas to get one. Then be spraying the frame as soon as I get back to Iowa lol.
any follow up video? I think you did good job and it will last whole season!
What does it look like now? Guessing that film you sprayed on captured a good amount of dirt n whatnot
Nice work!
Great job 👍🏼
Thank you! 👍🏻
Can we get an update on how the proceds has held up ?
"put down a tarp" then continues to do everything over pavers 😂😂😂 nice video man. I have an f150 and if I do a rust delete I'll be sure to follow this process
Great job! will this Surface Shield stay "wet" and collect dirt and dust?
It will stay wet looking for a bit and will collect a extra protective layer of dirt and dust, then it doesn’t look so wet. It looks like a flat black. But when you take your finger nail to it it’s got a nice layer of build up to protect the frame. Back in the day they used to use oil and hit a gravel road to accomplish a similar protection.
I just did the front and rear diff fluid the other day and you can see what it looks like a year later.. th-cam.com/video/AWBsTC4C5Oc/w-d-xo.html
Nice job!
Thank you!!
Excellent job. Probably could've gone straight to Surface Shield after cleaning the rust and power washing. Paint will flake eventually - regular sprays of surface shield or Fluid Film won't. Helluva job 👍
True dat 🤙🏻
For long term maintenance would it just be a case of spot treating any rust and then topping up the undercoating layer every couple of years?
That’s what I plan on. I just recently did control arms and was able to access some areas I wasn’t able to as well, so i touched them up :)
@@JRESHOW Awesome, I was toying with the idea of POR15, while tough POR15 looks like absolute hell to get off if you ever need to, your method looks great with regular maintenance
Amazing job!
Thank you! 😁
Nice work!
My car has rust only where the frame is welded, but overall is in good condition.
Do I have to do every step that you did to prevent further rust buildup? Can i just wire brush the rust and spray Surface Shield?
Yes!
Nice job 👍🏻
This is pretty much what i did to my old subaru. Wire brushed the under carriage for hours, sprayed it with over a quart of rust dissolver, pressure washed it when it had done its work, let it dry, then soak the entire under carriage with half a gallon of linseed oil using a spray gun (including inside the beams and structural members)
It is an awesome feeling! Now to see how it looks in a few years.
Linseed oil needs to be reapplied every year or two, but now that the worst part is done, its more a quick once over (unless some catastrophic areas reveal themselves)
Hey did any get on the paint? From any overspray or air blowing across bottom ? Didn’t know if I need to put paper or anything on bottom of truck on sides ?.
If you’re referring to the undercoat, you don’t need to worry about it. It’s pretty directional and if it does get on the paint it won’t hurt it a bit. Not really any overspray either..
What are your thoughts on just using surface shield on the bare frame and foregoing paint?
That would work too as long as you keep up with it from year to year, just checking to make sure you still got a coating on there. I like to spray this stuff and hit a gravel road to create another barrier. This stuff held up great after a year, and I didn’t have to but I put another coat on and drove more gravel roads. I’ve got a nice build up now that I can prolly go a few years no worries. So in short, yea, just spray the surface shield on the bare metal.
Im pretty much considering do this exact regiment on an old toyota 4runner. it will needs some plates welded on to it too. but need to stop the rust. I settled on rust cutter and surface shield. Will need to grind first, guess I'll look close at rustoleom rust reformer now as well.
The rust cutter and surface shield are #1 to me, I chose the rust reformer just in case. Good look on the 4 runner! Basically the same as this old taco :)
Just not a ton of guys talking about putting rust cutter on a truck frame lmfao. So I'm happy to find at least 1 guy as crazy as me 😂😂
@@SleekMouse 🤣🤣 just don’t get it on the paint job!!!
I love watching videos of single guys with all the time in the world.
😂😂
I’m married bro.
Got to Love your vehicle 😍
I wonder if dry ice cleaning might have been easier and more effective? don't know just wondering
Nice Video. I am doing something similar, but wish I would have used Rust Cutter. Instead I am using Naval Jelly, then 2 coats of Rustoleum Rust Reformer and then 1 cost of gloss black. And lastly I plan to use Fluid Film or Blaster, depends on the price per 5 gallons.
love the step by step tutorial dude, was wondering how's it looking at the moment? i understand its been close to a year since the vid has been released just wanted to know if you took the truck out on the beach in between the year time or anywhere near salt water, if so how it's holding up?
It’s holding up well. No beach or salt water… however went through a Iowa winter.. still a nice thick coat on on the surface shield. I’ll do an update video at a year..
@@JRESHOW Do you pressure wash the undercarriage during winter? Curious how the Surface Shield holds up after washings.
@@vincec.6130 you don't wash under the vehicle after applying surface shield. just respray every year at the beginning of fall or the end of summer. you can wash the main part of the vehicle as normal. just leave the underside alone until you need to respray the frame.
It's a little more expensive but I use engine/ header high temp paint. No primer needed.
Also, for rust I spray it with Thermacore or Evaporust.
amazing job, how long do you think this whole process took you from start to finish?
10 days - 14 days I think, a lot of it was dry time…
A bumblebee that goes on the attachment that goes on the pressure washer hose want to work really good
works just as gd with out the rust cutter.. The Rust Reformer does the same chemical reaction as the Rust Kutter.
Great work. Without a Car Lift, it would be very difficult for me.
Is it bad to leave the rust cutter sitting inside the frame? Or should you rinse it out? I’ve heard different opinions on rinsing/wiping it off and leaving it on under the paint.
This is my kind of video
Bless your energy and stamina...Can you come to philly and do my Silverado?...:)... I'd rather climb a ladder than crawl around under my truck...:)...It's not bad if you have a lift that you can walk under...I can't believe how many times you power washed it...
how well has it held up over the year
Dang were legit impressed! That rust kutter seems intense 😂 but dang it looks so good
Thanks guys! The kutter definitely works wonders! Probably not much use for it in your neck of the woods 🤣
What type of compressor are you using?
Two questions:
-How did you clean out the Rust Kutter from the spray gun/nozzle/reservoir before switching to the Surface Shield?
-What was your compressor set-up with the needle scaler (SCFM, size of air tank, etc.)? I've heard needle scalers require large compressors/reservoirs.
Curious about the CFM as well. Most affordable ones are only rated for about 2 or 3 CFM which apparently isn't all that much. If you want 10 or more the compressors run $6k to $12k.
Heard someone used rustoelum farm and implement low gloss paint after using that rust reformer. Wondering if it is worth doing that extra coat of farm paint or not?
Depends how far ya want to go I suppose. I know the gloss can add an extra protective layer for rock chips, but you’d def want to make sure you’re down to bare metal.
Does it ever dry or is it just a wet look???
It will collect dust over time and turn into a dryer type coating..
Looks great. How is it holding up?
It held up great! ended up selling the truck to a guy 20 hours away! On to a tundra :)
Awesome
How has this held up? We need an update.
Hey You did a great job. I know as you think about how and what you did what if anything you would change ?
The descaling was good idea along with the rust killer converter and spray gun. Excellent video
Yes, I would buy a truck from Texas or Florida 🤣🤣
Can we get updates to this please? Nobody ever does a update which is the most important part applying it and using things everyone knows it’ll look great but what it look like in a year or two or three
How did hold up?
Great job. Is there a follow-up on this technique?
I ended up selling the truck but have a test running now on a new 2023 tundra… I’ve also got some steel that’s going through some test but nothing really to show yet. It held up great for the first year and winter before selling. Guy flew from 20 hours away to buy it. It’s good stuff. Just a simple wire brush and spraying the undercoat will suffice
@@JRESHOW Well, that sounded like good news for you. Thanks for getting back to me, take care.
Had to scrap my Nissan hard odyssey and saw lots of Toyota trucks with the frame!
Wouldn't that rust cutter eat any rubber hoses, seals or rubber knuckles?
So it's ok to just spray Rust Shield over Rust reformer ?
its been a year, is there an update?
so the paint doesnt trap moisture in the frame ?
It does once you start getting rock chips in the paint ! I would never do this to a michigan vehicle
all you need is fluid film or something oil based and just spray it on forget about all that work he did ! I got a 1978 F-250 that been in michigan all its life and is still in mint shape !
@@dougyoung3896 ok well i live in the U.P we get hammered pretty hard i also do not have a garage i sprayed it with diesel this year and it seemed to hold up good do not notice any new rust
Salt corrosion is the gift that keeps on giving. Even after cleaning and treatment it can keep corroding.
Can u put surface shield on near the brake areas?
I’m a little dubious about that. I usually cover my brake assemblies with a plastic grocery bag before applying FluidFilm
Can you use rust kutter and then just coat with CRC or fluid film instead of painting
YES!
Im sorry about ur clearcoat. Great idea using 360° sprayer for rust preventative. Excellent job on SS. Please give us a video aftr winter. Sub'd & 👍'd . 🇺🇸
Will do!
Will this damage other components in the suspension if you accidentally spray it on them?
Not at all.
Man straight up created a Rust-Belt Kryptonite
I hope you make an update video in the future, on how it’s holding up.
This is truly the best way to prolong the life of a vehicle.
If youre using decreaser, are there any parts of the car that it cannot touch?
I do not have a garage, and Im not able to remove the wheels when doing this either.
I didn’t really tape anything off but just tried not to get it on anything electrical too much.
@@JRESHOW what about brakes and such? When I had to clean my mt.bike, keeping it off the brakes was a big issue. It would ruin them completely, and/or make them squeak. Not sure if its the same with anything on a car
@@michaelfrymus yes!! Def. Avoid brakes with the undercoat and degreaser. I think I just wrapped mine with a plastic grocery bag
@@JRESHOW Hmm.. Cuz I can only spray with degreaser at a car wash
Does that final coat you applied ever dry
The surface shield? It hasn’t yet…
I've done it with tacky bar and chain oil. It doesn't "dry" completely, but it eventually gets the same consistency as the gunk on a bicycle/motorcycle chain as it dries. Almost like a tacky grease.
Don't rub up against it, but it won't drip on you or your driveway after about a week.
Surface shield is good , but cosmoline is much better.
I feel like the paint was a mistake. Every truck I see that someone has tried to clean off the rust then prime and paint just leads to more rust under the paint, especially with "POR 15"
Not a fan of the POR 15 either. I’ve done this many times and see what you’re saying. However, on metal where you can get all the rust gone I’d prefer to paint before the surface shield. If it’s still got noticeable rust then straight to sure face shield or cosmoline would be better.
Is the finished surface tacky at all?
Yes. It will pick up dirt/ dust and you’ll have another protective layer.
Great job rusty free very expensive welding cars subframe undercoating great job garages very expensive welding in Ireland
Over Kill use motor oil. Never fails 35ryrs no rusy on my frame 93 Takoma owner from Maine
it washes off too easily. need something that firms up more. AmSoil HD metal protector is super.
I would of used a pressure washer with the sandblasting feed system on it you could of used baking soda to blast it or a fine medium of some sort of worried about wirers electric items cover with aluminum foil.
Much easier and the baking soda protects metal until you ready to paint.
Nice job, Looks great!
Keeping busy buckaroo? Idle hands bro...
Good day, Jresh
Owner of a 2008 Toyota Sequoia that's never left Florida.
Thanks to a possible job opportunity, i may be moving to Mason City, Iowa. I'm from Florida. Driven through snow a few times while traveling but have never lived anywhere with snow. I do not have a compressor, spray gun, or even a proper jack. Only a cheap harbor freight bottle jack rated for 4 tons. As I may be moving, i dont want to spend money on buying items similar to your setup, but I am willing to go under car and coat it. What would you recommend i do to prepare before I leave?
Hi there!! I’m from Iowa! We just got a nice snow storm lol. It sounds like your Sequoia is pretty clean underneath! I would just give it a good power washing underneath, let it dry for a few days and undercoat it with some surface shield before you head this way! That should do it!
@@JRESHOW Thank you so much for the quick reply.
I’m sure I’ll deal with the intense cold just fine (hiked in a tank top during winter when I was in Lake Placid, Upstate New York on a roadtrip. -1 degrees, at the time).
That said, I got nervous when I read how corrosive the salt and brine are to undercarriages. I don’t baby myself, but definitely baby the sequoia.
I’ll follow your advice, Jresh. Thank you kindly.
so hows ya truck now
You mostly got it right but the rust reformer wasn't really the best final step. First, it's redundant because the existing surface rust has already been converted or "reformed" with the Krud Kutter. And second, having used it myself, it's not very durable as a final coat and doesn't resist scratches, dents and dings very well, and will quickly chip off and reveal the metal underneath to exposure to the elements, leading to future rust. This is especially true if you didn't remove the underlying embedded and pitted rust that remains and will spread if exposed to water, salt and air.
Rust reformer is better used as a primer layer instead of phosphoric acid-based rust converters such as Krud Kutter, and not as a final top layer. For that I've had best results using either PRO-15 or KBS RustSeal, but others also use epoxy-based paint or powder coating, in which case it's probably still better to use a phosphoric acid-based rust converter than rust reformer, which is really more for out of the way parts with very light rust that are less likely to chip and scratch, and even then you want to top coat them with something tougher.
Basically, the process to treat and rust-proof rusted metal is:
1 - Clean to remove paint, dirt and crud to expose just the rust and metal
2 - Remove as much rust as possible using whatever methods work best
3 - Degrease thoroughly using detergent-based degreaser (i.e. NOT brake cleaner or solvents)
4 - Treat with a phosphoric acid-based rust converter (better yet one with zinc as well)
5 - Paint with a tough coat of something like POR-15, epoxy paint or powder coat
6 - Optional, top coat, especially if it'll be exposed to UV rays
7 - Optional, spray on oil or wax-based protecting layer such as Surface Shield
Did you do underneath the engine?
I did, yes.
@@JRESHOW oh great - I haven't done mine yet. Did you need to go through the engine bay at all to clean things up? Or is everything accessible from below?