I quit using POR15, Chassis saver, and anything like it years ago. They all suck. The problem is the coating is so hard it microfractures and allows moisture instrusion. Rustoleum and other oil based implement paints stick better and last longer on something that isn't a fair weather trailer queen.
Thanks for you input DSS. Cosmoline RP342 might be something that would interest you - never gets super hard and will not come off in water, salt, etc. Comes in clear and flat black :)
When I saw the link to this, for some reason I assumed you would do an acid test. The main reason we use these is to prevent rust, so I think that might make another interesting video. I've used all of these and I'm surprised by how hard the POR is. The only downsides I've heard are: cost, supposedly won't stand up to UV light. Great video. Thanks.
👍🏻I’ve used the rusty primer then painted with rustoleum on the under carriage and I’m happy with the results. I should say that it does take a month or so for the paint to dry hard. When I use a wire wheel on a grinder it doesn’t take the paint off
Great information MM - I figured it needed more time to dry. For the price, it's hard to beat RUSTOLEUM and other implement paints - like from Tractor Supply, etc. - have a great weekend and thanks for watching :)
You're not the first person to say that. I have used a vintage can of Rust-Oleum 7769 reduced 3:1, and I can still smell the paint in my garage almost a week later. I am debating what to apply next.
Jerry I have used both products...and I live in New Jersey not far from the shore ...por15 is good but is highly dependent on prep to be successful and cost a lot more than rustolem in can form... While rustolem is less dependent on prep... But when you prep the rustolem black and use phosphoric acid and paint when dry it will hold up for a very long time... I have seen POR15 fail and bubble up even when correctly prepped nothing makes you cry than spending the money and time on pro15 only to have it fail... I have a engine hoist that sits outside painted with rustolem black 25yrs+ ago with very little prep done that has very little rust for being outside that long... I have test panels outside with etching primer and rustolem top coated 8yrs in the elements faded but very little rust creep...prep is king Here but rustolem will do the job cheaper and longer than por15 especially if the newbie diyer doesn't get the prep quite right... With both products a wiping or spraying of xylene will pre soak the metal and help penetration....and 40 to 60% phosphoric acid like in milk stone remover available and farm supplies store will increase adhesion and kill under lying rust... But POR15 recommends none of this cause they sell there own versions at much higher cost... And they are located here in New Jersey. Just sharing my experience with both products and what I found to work and be the best cost effective in the long run for me it's an alkylad enamel on properly prepped steel.... Have a great weekend Jerry...and I hope the AMX is doing well.
. I don't think they cut to many corners as I've been using por15 30 yrs+ I think it comes down to prep rusty metal it works great but can fail many years down the line... Their poor patch is quite good it's a paste version of por15 and with proper prep I have never had it fail... To me price and ease of preparation rustoluem wins.
Thanks so much for spending the time and sharing that knowledge MN - that's great information 💯 Very valuable to folks trying to find a good answer to the rust battle. Nothing hurts more than getting a hold of a rust free car and having to drive it on a freshly salted wintery road - you're like, "Welp... it's over..." Thanks again - enjoy the weekend 👍💯😊
As with every rust product on the market, just like oil changes, it is far more important that you do it on schedule than the actual product you use. It doesn't matter if you use Supertech or Mobil 1 on most cars. It is far more important that you change it regularly. Same with this stuff. If fluid film says apply every year, then do it every year. I have a 2001 Silverado I bought a year ago that is getting a brand new frame from GM due to rust/rot issues. I have a good friend that has a 1985 C10 that has been oiled regularly for the last 40 years and it is in perfect shape... along with the original suspension grease bushings. You just have to keep up with the maintenance on your stuff.
You are 100% correct. There is no product that can be applied once and forget about it. If you live in any rust belt areas, it is an annual maintenance procedure, period.
22 years ago I bought a brand new truck and after getting it home, I found the pinch seam at a bottom back corner was crushed and paint chipped off down to metal. The damage was hard to see so I coated it with POR15 and hoped for the best. After all these years of road scum and salt hitting it, there's still no corrosion.
@@LakesideAutobody I saw the msds or something on the por. It's got cyanoacrylate in it ,like crazy glue. I spilled some on the floor ,it took a couple years to wear off whereas normal paint spillage is gone in like 6mo.
Unless I missed it, you have to treat the rusty metal with Metal Ready (aka: Phosphoric Acid) first. THEN apply POR15. I've used this stuff extensively and it has never been that easy to remove, ever. Infact it's a bitch to remove if you need to weld something that's been covered. Re apply after the surface prep has correctly been done as per the instructions.
thanks for the info again, por15 looks good. but like you said, to protect new stuff if one thing, but sort old stuff is another, so usning old engine oil, i think that is the key. oil oil creeps, its good.. thanks again
You're absolutely right. Even if I had this whole thing sand blasted, there would be 15% of the car untouched - inside of frame rails, cowl, enclosed cavities, etc. The creeping oil is perfect for those areas after you make sure they're cleaned out - even if you have to cut some holes and put a body plug in later. Thanks for the comment my friend :)
I had great success with por15. No problem finding it in my small town in Ontario. Price is steep but you only get what you pay for. It’s also available on Amazon.
The key to success with any of these methods is the prep work. Following the application instructions for each product. I have had great success with both. At the end of the day it’s what I have ready available at the time a the budget I have for the project. I consider both are great options.
I haven't commented for awhile and I want to thank you for this video. As prices skyrocket I'm always looking for more cost effective products. I used all of my old Eastwood rust encapsulator and bought some of the Rustoleum for using on wheel housings etc. before I install my new quarter panel. I'm now confident that it will work. I treated the rust first.
Thank you for sharing this video Jerry. I personally use the brush on rust-oleum when I'm restoring my cars. I like to use it on the firewall. And underneath - also inside the car when it's at the metal stage.
Having read so much about this paint, I thought I would try it. My test is challenging for any paint - rust-proofing the underside of a lawn mower deck. What I did: after removing any loose rust, I applied the recommended two stage preparation process then two coats of this paint and allowed several days to dry before running the mower. I ran the mower for one grass cutting session - about an hour of continuous use cutting two acres of grass, then inspected the painted surface. My conclusion: if the preparation steps are carefully followed the paint does seem to adhere well to rusty areas. However, it appeared to have a tendency to peel off as a sheet in areas that were not rusty. I know this paint is described as POR (paint over rust), but clearly in reality a useful paint needs to cover a range of surfaces, not just rusty ones. I’m afraid for this reason, combined with the ridiculously high price, especially if the preparation stages are used (and it seem to work much less well if they are not - I tried this also), I can’t give a more favourable assessment. One thing I do know though is that this stuff is very expensive - at now £55 for a US pint(!) of just the paint (not including the preparation). And for those in the UK, please note, this is not a British ("imperial") pint of 20 imperial fluid ounces (568 ml) but a significantly smaller American pint of only 16 US fluid ounces (473 ml).
Thanks for your input. I think you've made a good point about being able to stick to both. It does do very well on rusty metal though - has to be clean rust like an old farm disc or plow :)
I used por-15 on a VW project. I was not impressed. But it was not a rusty surface. I had heard about the "bonding" qualities for decades. But after not being completely happy with the adhesion i started to research it online and the best i can come up with is supposedly the epa or some gov overwatch got critical of some chemicals & the ended up changing the formula? Idk i was underwhelmed.
I tried it 20 years ago and was underwhelmed then too. Tried their exhaust coating and was flat out disappointed with it (wouldn't stick). I think the POR products just got ingrained into hobby car culture from a bunch of guys that don't actually drive their cars in bad weather anyhow. That's not a knock on them, it's just not really an accurate source of experience. The daily beater stuff I've painted with it made it for 1-2 years before it was right back where it started. Any paint would have been as good.
Also, you must remove oil and grease from the area that you’re treating. You presented an unbiased opinion on these products I say thumbs up on this video
I use hardner With rustoleum now. And try to let anything I paint cure for a month or more before heavy use. It still takes weeks to fully cure with hardner from my experience
I've been doing the same. Adding hardener definitely makes this stuff hold up better. I use the Majik brand catalyst from Rural King, but it's a little spendy at $18 (small can of maybe 6 or 8 ounces I think?). I'd like to find something else. Seems like some folks are using urethane hardener. Any idea if that works?
@@mccoma11 I use the same product. Haven’t tried anything else. I’m not too concerned by the price, as it works for a gallon. And a gallon of rustoleum goes a long, long way.
@@mccoma11I get it! Always good to have options on the shelf. I would imagine the chemical composition is different between the mode of action for hardners. But if you test it out… share the knowledge!!!!!
And how did they do preventing the spread of rust. The channel Project Farm recently completed comprehensive testing and neither POR 15 nor Rustoleum came out on top.
There is a very comprehensive video on TH-cam from a channel called "repair geek" titled, "If you think por15 is good paint, watch this." I highly recommend watching this video b4 anyone decides on any paint product. The thumbnail says,"Friends don't let friends use por15." I am a former body man. I have used gallons of por15, rustoleum, and most of the popular and professional products on the market today. Nothing i have ever used compares to mastercoat. It has been used for years on bridges and train cars. It's a 2 part system. Basecoat/primer, which makes your metal airtight so it can't rust. Then, the topcoat called AG111, which is impervious to all automotive fluids, including brake fluid, and it did not break down when submerged in acetone for 90 days. Thats why they use it on train cars because they clean graffiti off with acetone. There is another industry standard test called the salt fog chamber test where they paint metal with a product, then put a score through the product down to bare metal. Then, put that into a salt fog chamber and log the hours for the product to fail. In por 15's own salt fog test and listed on their website, por15 lasted 1000 hours in the test and had severe rust undercutting the product in the score down to bare metal area. Mastercoat lasted 14,000 hours with no damage and no rust undercutting the score down to bare metal. That is why they use it on bridges. The owner of mastercoat, "Pat" was one of the original creators of por15 but left to make his own product called mastercoat, the master series. The biggest problem with mastercoat was that since the repair geek video, Pat can't keep it in stock. But it seems like he has finally increased production enough that the full line of products is in stock now. Also, it's cheaper than por15 and requires much less critical surface prep. Back in 2019 i started getting ready to restore my 97f250hd. I started to por15 several new rear suspension parts. Leaf springs, axle, diff cover, axle plates and blocks etc. Then, in 2020, i found mastercoat and started painting the new front suspension parts. In the fall of 2020, i mastercoated my frame and installed all my previously painted suspension, axles, and steering components. After almost 4 years of new york winters, the mastercoat looks fresh like i just painted it. The por15 parts look like garbage and i top coatedthe por15 with por15 topcoat. My rear diff cover (por15) has almost no paint left on it and is rusting horribly. The rear diff cover bolts tore off the por15 on installation. The front diff cover(mastercoat) looks brand new and the bolts didn't tear off the mastercoat. Both differential covers were brand new and unused b4 i painted them. Some smart ford guy is going to say there is no front differential cover on a dana 50 twin traction beam axle. I swapped it out for a dana 60 straight axle.
Thanks for your input. I know that for POR15 to work well, it has to be put over cleaned rusty metal - it won't stick to plain metal. Thanks again though for you opinion my friend :)
Man, I remember being deployed on ships and the Navy breaking out the needle scalers. We called them the atomic woodpeckers. Sitting in the berthing areas with that going on was rough, sometimes.
You can't go wrong with Rustoleum brush on. It's been a while, but I always learned from watching your channel for projects for either of my kids' cars. I actually came to your channel today to look for a video to fix a patch of clearcoat. I took the front emblem off my son's Corvette and had been a little aggressive getting off the adhesive. I know when I first watched your channel you had a few episodes where you painted a fender with a rattle can, so you'll find me at the rattle can section of Lakeside Auto Body.
I wonder what the cost difference is on the 2 brush on products. That also might tend to make me pick between the first 2 as they seemed similar for adhesion. That’s for a great video! Which ever products are used, it will make a lasting difference verses skipping them all together.
The POR15 is more expensive. You're right though - I think any of the two will last longer than we need. An old guy I hang out with says he doesn't use treated lumber any more - I said, "why?" He said I only need it to last maybe 5 years 💀⚰️⚱️
I've had excellent results with POR 15 however it's important, after removing the loose rust to degrease and then etch the surface with the POR 15 metal prep. I think you will find by performing these steps according to the manufacturers recommendations the POR 15 will be even more durable and harder to remove.
Thanks for your input Scott - it is always best to follow the labels for sure. After using it a few times, I feel real confident that it will stand the test of time :)
I've used both over the years, and for the cost I think the rustoleum is fine to be honest. As you've demonstrated here, the performance difference is like splitting hairs.
@@LakesideAutobody i watch a video today of an experiment a guy did over a year POR what's a total fail. Once it starts peeling it comes off in sheets. Rust-Oleum did pretty good no chips, peeling and brake fluid didn't effect it unlike POR. Master Craft and raptor liner came in 1st and 2nd. He was a guy here in Ohio. Rust-Oleum still had 90% of it's gloss after a year. The channel is called the Repair Geek the video is only two weeks old. It's pretty interesting. It used 8 different manufacturers
On rust.....really depends on what the job is....if it's a spot where you plan to cover with some type of body work or fiberglass, I prefer one of the rust cure types. Chemically turns the rust black as a surface base. Of course, surface prep matters too. If it's underbody rust, and just want to cover with an undercoating, knock off loose rust with a wire brush, then spray or even brush on Woolwax... is the way to go, with an annual touch up inspection. Inside of doors, Fluid Film is the way to go. And last note...all the paint type coatings (i.e. Por15 or Rustoleum) that just cover existing rust...doesnt matter brand, but what happens is while it may look good on the surface, the rust underneath can continue to corrode, and eventually will poke a hole in the fixed area....been there done that! Learned the hard way, no cover up paint type coatings for me.... Enjoying the channel! 😊
I've had the BEST results with POR-15 by 'top coating' it with your preferred paint .... While it is still a bit 'tacky'. 🙂👍 The topcoat will protect the POR-15 from UV damage and make it last much, much longer.
I vote for none of the above. All of the paint-style products I've ever used to treat rust have been fairly useless. The _one_ thing that I've seen over and over, which actually appears to work, are the mastercoat products. That's one of the few rocks that I haven't yet over turned and tested personally. It's not cheap, but it appears to be the real deal.
Por 15 needs to be top coated rust oleum does not that’s the difference. I’ll stick with a good coating of ospho let it dry knock off the white ash then some Rustoleum . I’ve done several frames with Rustoleum I thin it and spray it on.
I vote for sandblaster and fiber disc, then 2K epoxy, then rubberized stonechip and then 2-3 layer of some industrial 2K acrylic.. You do it *once* in a car/trucks life and will never have to worry about the underbody. Maybe the material cost is like 3-4x than one por15 job, and the labour involved is 3x, but the peace of mind .... 😊 that is not comparable.
Try the heavy rusted metal primer from Rust oleum. ti has more chemical to treat the rust and excellent adhesion. Also keeps out water like a finish. good for priming underneath. Comes in quarts gallons and spray cans. I use it all the time.
I like the guitar intros as well, show us your axe and amp setup, I think that would make a cool video, and drink two for me,have a great weekend Jerry
My set up is pretty weak. I've got a few older Washburn KC series guitars and a small Crate practice amp. I'll do a video on that though - maybe paint a guitar and do a little jingle at the end. Thanks for always watching my friend - have a great weekend 👍💯
@@LakesideAutobody your ability far outweighs the quality of an instrument or gear,if I ever make videos again, I am going to make my own intro music,actually a cover of a few things from the 80s, prob get a copyright strike lol
I use rustoleum over Hallman Lindsey Industrial metal guard primer. Metal guard's solvent is xyxol, and it dries very fast. Works for me, but it's expensive.
I even tried Eastwood stuff. Was not very good. Rust came back. Worst than before. Friend of mine tried it was soft. I have at times been using rustoleum. But I put 2-3 coats. (2 medium to heavy coats to 3 lighter coats.) I think it takes like 30 days to completely harden. I am not saying it is better. That what I am trying to say. Not sure if When completely hardened it is that much worst than other stuff. Por15 is moisture cured. So if in humid area will dry quicker. I followed their directions. A few days later I could not open the can. I made a hole on top to get more paint out of it. Few days later what was left in can had hardened. Tried magnet paints. Same thing. But a few dollars cheaper. Gets expensive quickly. Eastwood has one in the spray can that might be moisture cured. (Not sure. Going to email them.) I think I might try that one.
This coating might be the alternative to painting that you are looking for - I've had really good luck with it on anything I use it on :- th-cam.com/video/i7sOyujLA8o/w-d-xo.html
I have a question, I’m removing rust on the inside lower drivers door of my Tacoma. The rust is not bad enough where it would require a cut and weld patch. Once I grind out the rust and get down to bare metal do I treat the bare metal with a rust inhibitor or a rust converter or rust encapsulator? Can I use all of those products? If so in which order? After treating the metal with the rust product(s) I plan on using a few coats of a zinc rich primer with wet sanding in between coats the paint then clear coat and buff then wax. Any feedback or instructions is appreciated thank you
The reason you're door bottoms are rusting is because they are rusting from the inside. What you do on the outside really isn't relevant. Just sand the surface rust off, prime and paint. Then treat the inside by cleaning (if possible) with compressed air, vacuum, water, etc. (no leaves, needles, dirt, mud, debris, rust chunks, etc.), squirt some WD40 inside to prevent further rust in the pinch weld at the bottom of the door. Watch this video for more insight on this issue - th-cam.com/video/y05dNxt-nVc/w-d-xo.html
Removed some old bedliner on my frame and some spots have good paint underneath..i read tons or horror stories about it not sticking. If i rough it up with 120 grit or so and prep with cleaner and metal prep, itll be alright? Id hate to waste so much money and time
If you are only worried about preventing rust and it's under the bedliner Cosmoline RP-342 is you're best bet - it comes in clear or flat black. Otherwise, yes just rough up the area with 120, prime and paint with rustoleum. If it's pure rusty metal, the POR-15 will work better. POR-15 is for metal that's literally coated with rust - just clean it and brush on the POR-15 :)
@LakesideAutobody yeah I think I'm gonna roll/brush rustoleum. I know it will work and not give me any issue, I just wish I could use the por but at least I don't need it. Lol think I have to mix any hardener or thin the rustoleum out to get a nice brush stroke?
Not with a brush - just open the can and brush it on. Park your truck so the water drains out the back - i.e. front is higher than the back if possible. The water under the liner needs to drain out 😊
Yep in 2012 i redid my summer car and detailed out all the suspension. After cleaning off the heavy stuff, i did 2 coats of por-15. Then 2 coats of their tie-coat primer and 2 coats of brush on Rustoleum. Some light sanding of the Rustoleum and add 2 coats of spray can Rustoleum for a glossy top coat. Pick a color you can get both. I figure if it chips, hopefully the brush on Rustoleum is what ya see.
Think the reason por-15 is working best is its formula is made primarily too etch into metal to convert or stop oxidation to point of then protecting surface from rerusting.could be why lots of body guys por15 then paint black base over top.holds up longer given that you have 2 actions taking hold.just my guess.snooky pa.😊😊😊😊
Thanks for input Allen - I think it does do some etching or something like that. It obviously soaks in or does something a little different than paint. Have a great weekend :)
You're welcome. I will say the most striking thing about it is how it seems to soak in and grab. I really don't know about the chemistry of the stuff but that's what I noticed right away :)
You're right but like I said in the video - I didn't really put the two to the TIME test - I guess years will tell which really lasts the longest. I don't think I have that much time anyway 👍💯😊
It's one of the best tools for rust and corners without a question - a favorite tool of mine lately with this resto. It's a needle scaler from Harbor Freight 👍💯😊
Fellow TH-camr "Repair Geek" did a rust sealer test back in January and Mastercoat Master Series destroyed the others. They've been selling out as soon as they get stock since. Worth checking out!
I have painted over POR15 after it cured/dried (scuffed first) and it works perfect. You could do what you are saying too - just scuff the POR first :)
I think those converters are all pretty similar - they turn the rust into something else - it turns it black - never really studied that and found out the science behind it though. I'll consider doing a video on that topic one day though - thanks for the suggestion :)
Can't beat that method for sure. For me though, it would be quite pricey and still wouldn't get the insides of the unibody frame rails, inside the cowl (windshield wiper area), rockers, and any other enclosed spaces.
I have had absolutely phenomenal results with KBS coatings Rust Seal. I live in the Northeast and I've used every conceivable rust remedy there is on the market.
Back in the day when implement paint contained lead, it was bullet proof. Of course those days are long gone as we all know that lead is bad. For the price, I am not impressed with POR & all "their" prep recommendations just up that cost. Lately I have been using phosphoric acid prep & after thoroughly dry, enamel, in my lawn tractor restore hobby. I am a fan of Sherwin Williams DTM (direct to metal) paints.
If you prepare the rusty surface according to the instructions it won't bubble on either. You tend to get bubbling and paint flaking off when metal is not prepped correctly. Also... panel, metal, wood, anything outside in wet environments has to be able to drain and dry out. It's when things sit in water or moisture for long periods of time that problems occur.
I like your channel and get a lot of useful info. In this case, however, I think you should have compared Rustoleum's Rust Reformer. It would been more apples to apples.
@@LakesideAutobody Jerry, I shared your video with the Ford truck forum where I'm the tech admin. I hope you don't mind if it drives traffic to your channel...😄
Great video. Seems like the the Por and Rusto (not spray can) were very comparable. My first experiment with my Fuji turbine sprayer (video here th-cam.com/video/ZQGtg2GSF9k/w-d-xo.html )was using Rusto to paint my little utility trailer. Mixed 50/50 with acetone and very little prep. I was not concerned with high quality. It came out better than I expected. A year and a half later it looks about as good as the day I put it on. Seems very durable. Thanks for the excellent content.
If you put any of these products on any surface that has even slight rust, you might as well put wet toilet paper on it . Ask me how I know. You either prep to clean bare metal and prime with 2k epoxy primer , or you’re wasting your money.
@@LakesideAutobody It looked great for a while. Within a year it began lifting off with slight rust underneath . I’ve had Rustoleum red primer do the same.
@LakesideAutobody it's a 3 step process but it's on there forever..used por 15 on my 68 valiant and didn't last 3 yrs..started flaking off w rust under it...used kbs on my grand national 4 yrs ago and it looks like I just put on..thx
I quit using POR15, Chassis saver, and anything like it years ago. They all suck. The problem is the coating is so hard it microfractures and allows moisture instrusion. Rustoleum and other oil based implement paints stick better and last longer on something that isn't a fair weather trailer queen.
100%
Thanks for you input DSS. Cosmoline RP342 might be something that would interest you - never gets super hard and will not come off in water, salt, etc. Comes in clear and flat black :)
@@LakesideAutobodyCosmoline does inded seem interesting, but I question it's ability to stand up to oil leaks and degreasing.
@@DaneSaysStuffoil leaks are pretty good at keeping rust at bay all by themselves.
That also has been my experience.
When I saw the link to this, for some reason I assumed you would do an acid test. The main reason we use these is to prevent rust, so I think that might make another interesting video. I've used all of these and I'm surprised by how hard the POR is. The only downsides I've heard are: cost, supposedly won't stand up to UV light. Great video. Thanks.
👍🏻I’ve used the rusty primer then painted with rustoleum on the under carriage and I’m happy with the results. I should say that it does take a month or so for the paint to dry hard. When I use a wire wheel on a grinder it doesn’t take the paint off
Great information MM - I figured it needed more time to dry. For the price, it's hard to beat RUSTOLEUM and other implement paints - like from Tractor Supply, etc. - have a great weekend and thanks for watching :)
You're not the first person to say that. I have used a vintage can of Rust-Oleum 7769 reduced 3:1, and I can still smell the paint in my garage almost a week later. I am debating what to apply next.
Japan dryer
Jerry I have used both products...and I live in New Jersey not far from the shore ...por15 is good but is highly dependent on prep to be successful and cost a lot more than rustolem in can form... While rustolem is less dependent on prep... But when you prep the rustolem black and use phosphoric acid and paint when dry it will hold up for a very long time... I have seen POR15 fail and bubble up even when correctly prepped nothing makes you cry than spending the money and time on pro15 only to have it fail... I have a engine hoist that sits outside painted with rustolem black 25yrs+ ago with very little prep done that has very little rust for being outside that long... I have test panels outside with etching primer and rustolem top coated 8yrs in the elements faded but very little rust creep...prep is king Here but rustolem will do the job cheaper and longer than por15 especially if the newbie diyer doesn't get the prep quite right... With both products a wiping or spraying of xylene will pre soak the metal and help penetration....and 40 to 60% phosphoric acid like in milk stone remover available and farm supplies store will increase adhesion and kill under lying rust... But POR15 recommends none of this cause they sell there own versions at much higher cost... And they are located here in New Jersey. Just sharing my experience with both products and what I found to work and be the best cost effective in the long run for me it's an alkylad enamel on properly prepped steel.... Have a great weekend Jerry...and I hope the AMX is doing well.
I found the same thing. POR when it first came out was better but then they cut corners on it.
. I don't think they cut to many corners as I've been using por15 30 yrs+ I think it comes down to prep rusty metal it works great but can fail many years down the line... Their poor patch is quite good it's a paste version of por15 and with proper prep I have never had it fail... To me price and ease of preparation rustoluem wins.
Thanks so much for spending the time and sharing that knowledge MN - that's great information 💯 Very valuable to folks trying to find a good answer to the rust battle. Nothing hurts more than getting a hold of a rust free car and having to drive it on a freshly salted wintery road - you're like, "Welp... it's over..." Thanks again - enjoy the weekend 👍💯😊
Im going with the Por15. After a few coats it just covers better for me.
I like the black cosmoline, and I’m gonna spray Fluid Film inside boxed sections on my rust repair jobs😉😉
Thanks for checking it out BB - appreciate the input too 😊💯
As with every rust product on the market, just like oil changes, it is far more important that you do it on schedule than the actual product you use. It doesn't matter if you use Supertech or Mobil 1 on most cars. It is far more important that you change it regularly. Same with this stuff. If fluid film says apply every year, then do it every year.
I have a 2001 Silverado I bought a year ago that is getting a brand new frame from GM due to rust/rot issues. I have a good friend that has a 1985 C10 that has been oiled regularly for the last 40 years and it is in perfect shape... along with the original suspension grease bushings. You just have to keep up with the maintenance on your stuff.
That's a great point - have to stay on top of the maintenance 💯
You are 100% correct. There is no product that can be applied once and forget about it. If you live in any rust belt areas, it is an annual maintenance procedure, period.
22 years ago I bought a brand new truck and after getting it home, I found the pinch seam at a bottom back corner was crushed and paint chipped off down to metal. The damage was hard to see so I coated it with POR15 and hoped for the best. After all these years of road scum and salt hitting it, there's still no corrosion.
Great story and proof that the stuff works - thanks for the input Scott :)
@@LakesideAutobody
I saw the msds or something on the por.
It's got cyanoacrylate in it ,like crazy glue.
I spilled some on the floor ,it took a couple years to wear off whereas normal paint spillage is gone in like 6mo.
Lol saw this post everywhere... same copy paste with different username.
@@amritpurewal7143 Thanks for telling us. That doesn't surprise me at all that they would try to con us like that.
Unless I missed it, you have to treat the rusty metal with Metal Ready (aka: Phosphoric Acid) first. THEN apply POR15. I've used this stuff extensively and it has never been that easy to remove, ever. Infact it's a bitch to remove if you need to weld something that's been covered. Re apply after the surface prep has correctly been done as per the instructions.
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I be using Rust-Oleum gloss finish for years. No issues. Brush it on. Holds up well
thanks for the info again, por15 looks good. but like you said, to protect new stuff if one thing, but sort old stuff is another, so usning old engine oil, i think that is the key.
oil oil creeps, its good.. thanks again
You're absolutely right. Even if I had this whole thing sand blasted, there would be 15% of the car untouched - inside of frame rails, cowl, enclosed cavities, etc. The creeping oil is perfect for those areas after you make sure they're cleaned out - even if you have to cut some holes and put a body plug in later. Thanks for the comment my friend :)
I had great success with por15. No problem finding it in my small town in Ontario. Price is steep but you only get what you pay for. It’s also available on Amazon.
Thanks for the input Harvey - the more thoughts and experiences the better on these topics - enjoy the weekend :)
The key to success with any of these methods is the prep work. Following the application instructions for each product. I have had great success with both. At the end of the day it’s what I have ready available at the time a the budget I have for the project. I consider both are great options.
Thanks for your input - well said. Have a good week :)
I just like using a 2k epoxy primer honestly.
You can also brush it on if you need to, doesn’t have to be sprayed
Thanks Jeremy - enjoy the weekend :)
I haven't commented for awhile and I want to thank you for this video. As prices skyrocket I'm always looking for more cost effective products. I used all of my old Eastwood rust encapsulator and bought some of the Rustoleum for using on wheel housings etc. before I install my new quarter panel. I'm now confident that it will work. I treated the rust first.
You're welcome - a lot of people like RUSTOLEUM - I think it'll work just fine :)
I've been wondering about this for a while now.. Thanks Jerry for the video! Also love the Guitar intros!
Thanks for watching 67 - you're welcome too. Enjoy the weekend my friend 😊
Thank you for sharing this video Jerry. I personally use the brush on rust-oleum when I'm restoring my cars. I like to use it on the firewall. And underneath - also inside the car when it's at the metal stage.
Thanks for checking it out and your input Luis - have a good weekend my friend :)
Having read so much about this paint, I thought I would try it. My test is challenging for any paint - rust-proofing the underside of a lawn mower deck.
What I did: after removing any loose rust, I applied the recommended two stage preparation process then two coats of this paint and allowed several days to dry before running the mower. I ran the mower for one grass cutting session - about an hour of continuous use cutting two acres of grass, then inspected the painted surface.
My conclusion: if the preparation steps are carefully followed the paint does seem to adhere well to rusty areas. However, it appeared to have a tendency to peel off as a sheet in areas that were not rusty. I know this paint is described as POR (paint over rust), but clearly in reality a useful paint needs to cover a range of surfaces, not just rusty ones. I’m afraid for this reason, combined with the ridiculously high price, especially if the preparation stages are used (and it seem to work much less well if they are not - I tried this also), I can’t give a more favourable assessment.
One thing I do know though is that this stuff is very expensive - at now £55 for a US pint(!) of just the paint (not including the preparation). And for those in the UK, please note, this is not a British ("imperial") pint of 20 imperial fluid ounces (568 ml) but a significantly smaller American pint of only 16 US fluid ounces (473 ml).
Thanks for your input. I think you've made a good point about being able to stick to both. It does do very well on rusty metal though - has to be clean rust like an old farm disc or plow :)
I used por-15 on a VW project. I was not impressed. But it was not a rusty surface. I had heard about the "bonding" qualities for decades. But after not being completely happy with the adhesion i started to research it online and the best i can come up with is supposedly the epa or some gov overwatch got critical of some chemicals & the ended up changing the formula? Idk i was underwhelmed.
I tried it 20 years ago and was underwhelmed then too. Tried their exhaust coating and was flat out disappointed with it (wouldn't stick). I think the POR products just got ingrained into hobby car culture from a bunch of guys that don't actually drive their cars in bad weather anyhow. That's not a knock on them, it's just not really an accurate source of experience. The daily beater stuff I've painted with it made it for 1-2 years before it was right back where it started. Any paint would have been as good.
Also, you must remove oil and grease from the area that you’re treating. You presented an unbiased opinion on these products
I say thumbs up on this video
Thanks Richard - I appreciate your input :)
Other reviews have shown the Por 15 not doing too well. Rustoleum seams as good as Por 15.
I use hardner With rustoleum now. And try to let anything I paint cure for a month or more before heavy use. It still takes weeks to fully cure with hardner from my experience
I've been doing the same. Adding hardener definitely makes this stuff hold up better. I use the Majik brand catalyst from Rural King, but it's a little spendy at $18 (small can of maybe 6 or 8 ounces I think?). I'd like to find something else. Seems like some folks are using urethane hardener. Any idea if that works?
@@mccoma11 I use the same product. Haven’t tried anything else. I’m not too concerned by the price, as it works for a gallon. And a gallon of rustoleum goes a long, long way.
@danhoy8356 that's true. I guess I'm just thinking about how I always have urethane hardener on-hand, and the closest RK is an hour away lol!
@@mccoma11I get it! Always good to have options on the shelf. I would imagine the chemical composition is different between the mode of action for hardners. But if you test it out… share the knowledge!!!!!
Three days is not enough time to cure. I get very good results over rust with Hammerite. Thanks for the demostration!
You're welcome 😊
And how did they do preventing the spread of rust. The channel Project Farm recently completed comprehensive testing and neither POR 15 nor Rustoleum came out on top.
Good info - thanks for the input 👍💯
There is a very comprehensive video on TH-cam from a channel called "repair geek" titled, "If you think por15 is good paint, watch this." I highly recommend watching this video b4 anyone decides on any paint product. The thumbnail says,"Friends don't let friends use por15."
I am a former body man. I have used gallons of por15, rustoleum, and most of the popular and professional products on the market today. Nothing i have ever used compares to mastercoat. It has been used for years on bridges and train cars. It's a 2 part system. Basecoat/primer, which makes your metal airtight so it can't rust. Then, the topcoat called AG111, which is impervious to all automotive fluids, including brake fluid, and it did not break down when submerged in acetone for 90 days. Thats why they use it on train cars because they clean graffiti off with acetone. There is another industry standard test called the salt fog chamber test where they paint metal with a product, then put a score through the product down to bare metal. Then, put that into a salt fog chamber and log the hours for the product to fail. In por 15's own salt fog test and listed on their website, por15 lasted 1000 hours in the test and had severe rust undercutting the product in the score down to bare metal area. Mastercoat lasted 14,000 hours with no damage and no rust undercutting the score down to bare metal. That is why they use it on bridges. The owner of mastercoat, "Pat" was one of the original creators of por15 but left to make his own product called mastercoat, the master series. The biggest problem with mastercoat was that since the repair geek video, Pat can't keep it in stock. But it seems like he has finally increased production enough that the full line of products is in stock now. Also, it's cheaper than por15 and requires much less critical surface prep.
Back in 2019 i started getting ready to restore my 97f250hd. I started to por15 several new rear suspension parts. Leaf springs, axle, diff cover, axle plates and blocks etc. Then, in 2020, i found mastercoat and started painting the new front suspension parts. In the fall of 2020, i mastercoated my frame and installed all my previously painted suspension, axles, and steering components. After almost 4 years of new york winters, the mastercoat looks fresh like i just painted it. The por15 parts look like garbage and i top coatedthe por15 with por15 topcoat. My rear diff cover (por15) has almost no paint left on it and is rusting horribly. The rear diff cover bolts tore off the por15 on installation. The front diff cover(mastercoat) looks brand new and the bolts didn't tear off the mastercoat. Both differential covers were brand new and unused b4 i painted them. Some smart ford guy is going to say there is no front differential cover on a dana 50 twin traction beam axle. I swapped it out for a dana 60 straight axle.
Thanks for your input. I know that for POR15 to work well, it has to be put over cleaned rusty metal - it won't stick to plain metal. Thanks again though for you opinion my friend :)
Man, I remember being deployed on ships and the Navy breaking out the needle scalers. We called them the atomic woodpeckers. Sitting in the berthing areas with that going on was rough, sometimes.
I'll bet. Must have been daunting seeing all that rust using a little tool like this :)
You can't go wrong with Rustoleum brush on.
It's been a while, but I always learned from watching your channel for projects for either of my kids' cars. I actually came to your channel today to look for a video to fix a patch of clearcoat. I took the front emblem off my son's Corvette and had been a little aggressive getting off the adhesive. I know when I first watched your channel you had a few episodes where you painted a fender with a rattle can, so you'll find me at the rattle can section of Lakeside Auto Body.
Great - let me know if you have any ?s David 😊
I wonder what the cost difference is on the 2 brush on products. That also might tend to make me pick between the first 2 as they seemed similar for adhesion. That’s for a great video! Which ever products are used, it will make a lasting difference verses skipping them all together.
The POR15 is more expensive. You're right though - I think any of the two will last longer than we need. An old guy I hang out with says he doesn't use treated lumber any more - I said, "why?" He said I only need it to last maybe 5 years 💀⚰️⚱️
I've had excellent results with POR 15 however it's important, after removing the loose rust to degrease and then etch the surface with the POR 15 metal prep. I think you will find by performing these steps according to the manufacturers recommendations the POR 15 will be even more durable and harder to remove.
Thanks for your input Scott - it is always best to follow the labels for sure. After using it a few times, I feel real confident that it will stand the test of time :)
brush on rustoleum is way better than por15
Thanks for you input JB :)
Great comparison Jerry. I very often use Rusoleum only because POR 15 is 90 dollars a quart where I live
It's sort of the same here RUSTOLEUM is affordable and POR 15 is expensive. Thanks for checking it out Stephen - enjoy the weekend :)
I've used both over the years, and for the cost I think the rustoleum is fine to be honest. As you've demonstrated here, the performance difference is like splitting hairs.
Thanks for your input Steve - enjoy the weekend :)
I think my pick would be the Rust-Oleum. Isn't Rust-Oleum in oil base?
Yes - it's actually great stuff for the price. I think if you prepare the surface like RUSTOLEUM wants you too - you'll be just fine :)
@@LakesideAutobody i watch a video today of an experiment a guy did over a year POR what's a total fail. Once it starts peeling it comes off in sheets. Rust-Oleum did pretty good no chips, peeling and brake fluid didn't effect it unlike POR. Master Craft and raptor liner came in 1st and 2nd. He was a guy here in Ohio. Rust-Oleum still had 90% of it's gloss after a year. The channel is called the Repair Geek the video is only two weeks old. It's pretty interesting. It used 8 different manufacturers
On rust.....really depends on what the job is....if it's a spot where you plan to cover with some type of body work or fiberglass, I prefer one of the rust cure types. Chemically turns the rust black as a surface base. Of course, surface prep matters too.
If it's underbody rust, and just want to cover with an undercoating, knock off loose rust with a wire brush, then spray or even brush on Woolwax... is the way to go, with an annual touch up inspection. Inside of doors, Fluid Film is the way to go.
And last note...all the paint type coatings (i.e. Por15 or Rustoleum) that just cover existing rust...doesnt matter brand, but what happens is while it may look good on the surface, the rust underneath can continue to corrode, and eventually will poke a hole in the fixed area....been there done that! Learned the hard way, no cover up paint type coatings for me....
Enjoying the channel! 😊
Thanks for your input Samule - I agree with you on the second paragraph - ever try Cosmoline RP 342 - pretty good stuff. Easy to apply too :)
Interesting tests. I know Por15 is harder to get off your bare hands than Rustoleum
Thanks and you're right - that stuff stays on your skin - not sure why but man! - it don't come off :)
I've had the BEST results with POR-15 by 'top coating' it with your preferred paint .... While it is still a bit 'tacky'. 🙂👍
The topcoat will protect the POR-15 from UV damage and make it last much, much longer.
Thanks TM - appreciate your input :)
Thank Jerry have a great weekend!
You're welcome GM - you too my friend :)
I vote for none of the above. All of the paint-style products I've ever used to treat rust have been fairly useless. The _one_ thing that I've seen over and over, which actually appears to work, are the mastercoat products. That's one of the few rocks that I haven't yet over turned and tested personally. It's not cheap, but it appears to be the real deal.
Thanks for that information TBL - enjoy the weekend :)
Por 15 needs to be top coated rust oleum does not that’s the difference. I’ll stick with a good coating of ospho let it dry knock off the white ash then some Rustoleum . I’ve done several frames with Rustoleum I thin it and spray it on.
It does spray on nice for sure - especially the satin black. Can't beat the price and availability either :)
I vote for sandblaster and fiber disc, then 2K epoxy, then rubberized stonechip and then 2-3 layer of some industrial 2K acrylic.. You do it *once* in a car/trucks life and will never have to worry about the underbody. Maybe the material cost is like 3-4x than one por15 job, and the labour involved is 3x, but the peace of mind .... 😊 that is not comparable.
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Try the heavy rusted metal primer from Rust oleum. ti has more chemical to treat the rust and excellent adhesion. Also keeps out water like a finish. good for priming underneath. Comes in quarts gallons and spray cans. I use it all the time.
I did buy a quart to do a video on it but never got around to it - I'll give it a try. Thanks for checking the video out Mike :)
Interesting video thanks for the review. The spray stuff would seem to be a waste of money if you are going to do this to a vehicle. Have great week.
You too Bob - thanks for checking it out :)
I like the guitar intros as well, show us your axe and amp setup, I think that would make a cool video, and drink two for me,have a great weekend Jerry
My set up is pretty weak. I've got a few older Washburn KC series guitars and a small Crate practice amp. I'll do a video on that though - maybe paint a guitar and do a little jingle at the end. Thanks for always watching my friend - have a great weekend 👍💯
@@LakesideAutobody your ability far outweighs the quality of an instrument or gear,if I ever make videos again, I am going to make my own intro music,actually a cover of a few things from the 80s, prob get a copyright strike
lol
@@LakesideAutobody I've been aiming to comment about the guitar intro ever since I've been watching our videos.
I use rustoleum over Hallman Lindsey Industrial metal guard primer. Metal guard's solvent is xyxol, and it dries very fast. Works for me, but it's expensive.
Thanks for the info Bob - Thanks for watching too. Have a great weekend :)
I even tried Eastwood stuff. Was not very good. Rust came back. Worst than before. Friend of mine tried it was soft.
I have at times been using rustoleum. But I put 2-3 coats. (2 medium to heavy coats to 3 lighter coats.) I think it takes like 30 days to completely harden. I am not saying it is better. That what I am trying to say. Not sure if When completely hardened it is that much worst than other stuff. Por15 is moisture cured. So if in humid area will dry quicker. I followed their directions. A few days later I could not open the can. I made a hole on top to get more paint out of it. Few days later what was left in can had hardened.
Tried magnet paints. Same thing. But a few dollars cheaper. Gets expensive quickly.
Eastwood has one in the spray can that might be moisture cured. (Not sure. Going to email them.)
I think I might try that one.
This coating might be the alternative to painting that you are looking for - I've had really good luck with it on anything I use it on :- th-cam.com/video/i7sOyujLA8o/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for sharing the video Mr Dan
You're welcome
I used the one from Eastwood and it seems to be very durable. It’s expensive and you have to wait forever to get it though.
Thanks for that information Don - have a good weekend :)
Great video Jerry. I have had good luck with the oil base Rustoleum.
Thanks Tom - hope all is well with you and Layne. You can't beat RUSTOLEUM for the price and quality for sure :)
I have a question, I’m removing rust on the inside lower drivers door of my Tacoma. The rust is not bad enough where it would require a cut and weld patch. Once I grind out the rust and get down to bare metal do I treat the bare metal with a rust inhibitor or a rust converter or rust encapsulator? Can I use all of those products? If so in which order? After treating the metal with the rust product(s) I plan on using a few coats of a zinc rich primer with wet sanding in between coats the paint then clear coat and buff then wax. Any feedback or instructions is appreciated thank you
The reason you're door bottoms are rusting is because they are rusting from the inside. What you do on the outside really isn't relevant. Just sand the surface rust off, prime and paint. Then treat the inside by cleaning (if possible) with compressed air, vacuum, water, etc. (no leaves, needles, dirt, mud, debris, rust chunks, etc.), squirt some WD40 inside to prevent further rust in the pinch weld at the bottom of the door. Watch this video for more insight on this issue - th-cam.com/video/y05dNxt-nVc/w-d-xo.html
@@LakesideAutobody thank you so much Michigan and TH-cam are lucky to have you
@@jcz136 👍😊
@@LakesideAutobody any primer you recommend? Zinc rich ? Epoxy?
Removed some old bedliner on my frame and some spots have good paint underneath..i read tons or horror stories about it not sticking. If i rough it up with 120 grit or so and prep with cleaner and metal prep, itll be alright? Id hate to waste so much money and time
If you are only worried about preventing rust and it's under the bedliner Cosmoline RP-342 is you're best bet - it comes in clear or flat black. Otherwise, yes just rough up the area with 120, prime and paint with rustoleum. If it's pure rusty metal, the POR-15 will work better. POR-15 is for metal that's literally coated with rust - just clean it and brush on the POR-15 :)
@LakesideAutobody yeah I think I'm gonna roll/brush rustoleum. I know it will work and not give me any issue, I just wish I could use the por but at least I don't need it. Lol think I have to mix any hardener or thin the rustoleum out to get a nice brush stroke?
Not with a brush - just open the can and brush it on. Park your truck so the water drains out the back - i.e. front is higher than the back if possible. The water under the liner needs to drain out 😊
Yep in 2012 i redid my summer car and detailed out all the suspension.
After cleaning off the heavy stuff, i did 2 coats of por-15.
Then 2 coats of their tie-coat primer and 2 coats of brush on Rustoleum.
Some light sanding of the Rustoleum and add 2 coats of spray can Rustoleum for a glossy top coat.
Pick a color you can get both.
I figure if it chips, hopefully the brush on Rustoleum is what ya see.
Good ideas MTH - enjoy the weekend :)
Think the reason por-15 is working best is its formula is made primarily too etch into metal to convert or stop oxidation to point of then protecting surface from rerusting.could be why lots of body guys por15 then paint black base over top.holds up longer given that you have 2 actions taking hold.just my guess.snooky pa.😊😊😊😊
Thanks for input Allen - I think it does do some etching or something like that. It obviously soaks in or does something a little different than paint. Have a great weekend :)
I have heard a lot about POR-15 but we don't have it in our stores around Toronto. I am very curious about it. Thanks
You're welcome. I will say the most striking thing about it is how it seems to soak in and grab. I really don't know about the chemistry of the stuff but that's what I noticed right away :)
Hey patvancanada: I'm in sask. Canadian tire here sells the stuff, but any paint body supplier should be able to get it. I get mine at walkers here
@@gm-lb9oe Really?! Thanks, it must be in the GTA, I just have to look harder.
Por15 it’s almost 3 times the price of Rust oleum, and it doesn’t seem to be better
You're right but like I said in the video - I didn't really put the two to the TIME test - I guess years will tell which really lasts the longest. I don't think I have that much time anyway 👍💯😊
What is the needle tool? That looks like a great way to get rust out of corners...
Needle scaler
Air needle scaler. Usually they go on the front of an air hammer.
It's one of the best tools for rust and corners without a question - a favorite tool of mine lately with this resto. It's a needle scaler from Harbor Freight 👍💯😊
Love the videos, to the point 👍.. . . . . . . . with little other crap that wastes time.
Thanks 👍 - glad you like that type of video - I'm not that good at entertaining :)
Fellow TH-camr "Repair Geek" did a rust sealer test back in January and Mastercoat Master Series destroyed the others. They've been selling out as soon as they get stock since. Worth checking out!
Yea repair geek is like a young project farm
Thanks for your input PF - thanks for checking this one out :)
Zero Rust is awesome stuff, it doesn't crack and chip and peel off like Por 15
Thanks for the information my friend :)
How about painting the Rustoleum over the POR15?
I have painted over POR15 after it cured/dried (scuffed first) and it works perfect. You could do what you are saying too - just scuff the POR first :)
I wonder how it compare Rustolem professionsal high performance enamel or Rustoleum fam implement pain
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Hi what was in the spray bottle?
Wax and grease remover :)
Like krud kutter?@@LakesideAutobody
Now show the process using various rust converters.
I think those converters are all pretty similar - they turn the rust into something else - it turns it black - never really studied that and found out the science behind it though. I'll consider doing a video on that topic one day though - thanks for the suggestion :)
I'm not sure what they recommend or say but in my opinion any type of paint needs up to a month to cure. Especially something like this situation.
You're right. Rustoleum with a hardener (like Majic enamel hardener) does harden act more like real auto paint though :)
I’m going with sandblasting and epoxy primer.
Can't beat that method for sure. For me though, it would be quite pricey and still wouldn't get the insides of the unibody frame rails, inside the cowl (windshield wiper area), rockers, and any other enclosed spaces.
From my experience, brake fluid eats thru both products but I use Rustoleum
Interesting.... thanks for the tip. I'll keep that in mind :)
There's a company called KBS coatings that make some great rust repair/prevention products. Better long term over Chassis Saver
Thanks for the information Dave 👍💯
Eching primmer same weld thur primmer
Hi Super - hope all is well with you. Have a great weekend 😊
Thank you for sharing.
You're welcome Ken - enjoy the weekend :)
What about rust converter and lanoline undercoating?
That can work for sure. Make sure the panel is clean inside, can drain and dry out and this - th-cam.com/video/8XaZBy7GC7A/w-d-xo.html
Once again, thank you. My 2008 F150 will not be a show truck, but a daily driver. I want to keep it a couple more years.
Thanks Jerry.
You're welcome Bruce - enjoy the weekend :)
Mastercoat silver primer is the best
I'll have to remember that - thanks for your take Tank :)
Por-15 needs a top coater spray or brush on paint top coater...
True - thanks for your input :)
I have had absolutely phenomenal results with KBS coatings Rust Seal. I live in the Northeast and I've used every conceivable rust remedy there is on the market.
Thanks for the information - I'll be checking that stuff out :)
@@LakesideAutobody awesome you'll be happy with those products. I've learned so much from you it's not even funny thank you!
Can you use por15 on body panels
Yes but it actually works best if it's applied to cleaned, dry rust. I doesn't stick well to plain metal 😊
@@LakesideAutobody so I can scuff it and apply some filler to also
Have you ever tried Bill Hirsch Miracle Paint?
No - but I'll check it out - thanks for the suggestion :)
witch one is better
Over pure rusty surfaces POR 15 for general spray painting of rusty stuff around the house and car that you will sand and prime, I'd say Rustoleum.
@@LakesideAutobody I have to sand it down
both about the same except por 15 can be top coated with urathane primer and paint where as the rustoleum will bubble up the paint
Thanks for the input Bill - enjoy the weekend :)
I just wish they hadn't changed the formula on the rusty metal primer the old stuff was fantastic
Probably something the environment didn't like 🥴
@@LakesideAutobody
Don't know all the ingredients but it had fish oil in it
Back in the day when implement paint contained lead, it was bullet proof. Of course those days are long gone as we all know that lead is bad.
For the price, I am not impressed with POR & all "their" prep recommendations just up that cost. Lately I have been using phosphoric acid prep & after thoroughly dry, enamel, in my lawn tractor restore hobby. I am a fan of Sherwin Williams DTM (direct to metal) paints.
Great points Skip - I appreciate the input :)
Will rust bubble under these?
If you prepare the rusty surface according to the instructions it won't bubble on either. You tend to get bubbling and paint flaking off when metal is not prepped correctly. Also... panel, metal, wood, anything outside in wet environments has to be able to drain and dry out. It's when things sit in water or moisture for long periods of time that problems occur.
@@LakesideAutobody Got it, thanks!
I think rustoleum metal primer should have been tested next to por 15 , the one you used was paint .
Thanks for your input. I should have put that to the test too :)
I like your channel and get a lot of useful info. In this case, however, I think you should have compared Rustoleum's Rust Reformer. It would been more apples to apples.
Thanks for the input BBO - thanks for checking it out anyway. Enjoy the weekend my friend :)
You need to add the 'gloss & hardener' catalyst to the Rust-Oleum...
True - thanks for the input - it does make a difference. The MAJIC enamel hardener is the only stuff I can find lately though :)
@@LakesideAutobody Cerrocoat is available through Ben Moore and Valspar is at tractor supply. 😉
My whole pickup is painted with a $50 gallon of Rust-Oleum OSHA Safety Red and a $19 Horrid Fate spraygun. 😂
@@LakesideAutobody Jerry, I shared your video with the Ford truck forum where I'm the tech admin.
I hope you don't mind if it drives traffic to your channel...😄
What people don't realize is por 15 only works on rust.
Anything not rusty needs real paint.
You're totally right - I really should have made a point of that - it's not for anything else :)
Great video. Seems like the the Por and Rusto (not spray can) were very comparable. My first experiment with my Fuji turbine sprayer (video here th-cam.com/video/ZQGtg2GSF9k/w-d-xo.html )was using Rusto to paint my little utility trailer. Mixed 50/50 with acetone and very little prep. I was not concerned with high quality. It came out better than I expected. A year and a half later it looks about as good as the day I put it on. Seems very durable. Thanks for the excellent content.
You're welcome Ken - thanks for watching :)
Great video
Glad you enjoyed it - thanks for watching Straight Pipe 👍💯
If you put any of these products on any surface that has even slight rust, you might as well put wet toilet paper on it . Ask me how I know. You either prep to clean bare metal and prime with 2k epoxy primer , or you’re wasting your money.
What happened exactly when you put the POR15 over wire brushed and cleaned rust? How many coats did you use?
@@LakesideAutobody It looked great for a while. Within a year it began lifting off with slight rust underneath . I’ve had Rustoleum red primer do the same.
por15 , no contest ... don't even have to watch the video to make that choice
Thanks for your input - that stuff really soaks in and ends up getting super hard and durable :)
Just don't forget to top coat over the POR15. UV rays is not its friend
You're right - it does take a topcoat real well too - just have to scuff it up. Thanks for the input Fixin' - have a good weekend 💯
Kbs paints is the stuff...
Thanks for the input - I'll check that brand out :)
@LakesideAutobody it's a 3 step process but it's on there forever..used por 15 on my 68 valiant and didn't last 3 yrs..started flaking off w rust under it...used kbs on my grand national 4 yrs ago and it looks like I just put on..thx