Used the POR-15 Caliper Paint kit on my car back in 2009. 12 years later, looks almost as good as the day I applied it. Held up amazing! Just follow the instructions and apply in humid conditions for best results. Just this year I had some lally-columns in my crawl space there were subject to moisture and started to have scale and flaking rust present, especially at the base of the columns. I scraped all the loose rust off, wire brushed down the columns, used the degreaser, wire brushed the degreaser in again, rinsed with water to clean the surface. A day later used the metal prep applying liberally for 30-mins and then let dry. Went back a few days later after all surfaces were dry, then applied POR-15 gray rust preventative on the columns in two coats. Being in the basement, where its pretty humid and will never see UV, just the rust preventative coat should suffice for many years to come. Bye-bye rust! This stuff is no joke though....follow all the safety precautions. Its not for the faint of heart!
Most definitely follow the precautions and definitely wear a respirator and goggles even if outside and using a brush to apply ! I had headaches and burning eyes for 3 days after using this stuff ! The warnings on the box are for REAL !
People talk shit about it but I used it 26 years ago I used the kit back then it wasn’t as popular I treated the floor boards in a 1968 400 firebird. It worked awesome!! The cane out near bullet proof. I would recommend it anytime that straight up welding new metal is not a current option for whatever reason!! 5* out 5 from this guy!!
I hate to be that guy, but everyone should be asking if that urethane paint and especially the hardener contain isocyanates. If so, you can build up an allergy from exposure. No bueno. It's odorless, so organic vapor cartridges can be used, but you won't know when they're full. Also, your eyes can absorb these solvents. Supplied air full face respirator is the right way to paint, especially with hardeners. If you're cool risking it, fine, but please read what's on the ingredients list and educate yourself before you compromise your health or your family's. At least have good ventilation where you paint. This is not the same as using a can of duplicolor.
I worked in a body shop when urethane paint came out. We used Amerflint. The first time it was used in the shop I found I was extremely allergic to it. My boss opened the can across the shop and mixed the paint. I suddenly couldn't breath. One of my coworkers saw me and went to a nearby pharmacy and bought me an inhaler. This saved my life. I warn anyone that may have asthma or grew up with asthma to stay away from urethane paint that uses isicyinates. Good luck.
I’m glad you said this. Some people just don’t care but many don’t know, and if they did they would probably take needed precautions to protect themselves.
I haven't even finished watching the video yet and I'm seeing all these processes and finishes that go along with it now. It almost goes against the original intent of the original product which was paint over rust. Now it's all these chemicals and processes that have to be done before this product is effective. Just saying
Great stuff! I'm about to shrink wrap my arms to finish my frame and fender wells. BTW if you have a steel, F150 with fender flares (FX4 etc) carefully pull the rear flares off (temporarily) and pump this stuff into the mounting holes if you live in the rust-belt. Poke around with a steel pick using a mirror and a flashlight... remove rusty chunks and rotting foam... flush with garden hose and compressed air. Dry and apply. Foam rollers and foam sticks are helpful. Drive something else for 3 or 4 days...wait 24 hours between coats. Get pints from Advance Auto Parts. Use old vitamin bottles for left over paint. (partial cans dry up fast and the lid will seal itself shut... you'll need a church-key to pop a hole or 2). Tip: Adhesive foam stuck onto a hacksaw blade works really well for tight nooks and crannies!
To keep cans fresh cover the top with plastic wrap and spray in some keyboard air duster then reseal with the original cap over the plastic wrap. It's havier than air and will prevent it from setting. Works well with paint. I'd give that a shot, for science.
I've been using por-15 for a long time. What we did was put a large sheet metal screw into the top and then tighten it all the way down. If we need to use the por-15 enjoy the container. I have always bought the six pack POR. I found on the courts that if you don't use it all and you shield a nice sheet metal screw idea it will go bad on you it will harden. Just my two cents.
I love this stuff....I've used it many times. Use gloves always, stuff is hardcore. First time I used it, I hit the lid down trying to close the can and it splattered....I had black freckles all over my face for the better part of a month.
S K adheres well to skin, fingernails, and porous surfaces - rust and metal not so much. They’re making a new bs product under a new name in an attempt to distance themselves from this poor shitteen.
@@saintadolf5639 sandblast down to bare metal, etched primer and quality paint. There is no substitute. If you can’t sandblast, stripper, wire wheel, sanding, etc. then clean with acetone or similar. POR will adhere/bond to rust at a specific stage, the rest of the colors in the rainbow of rust - not so much
Great video...Thanks!It's worth mentioning as well that, (Speaking from experience...), you do NOT want to get any POR 15 on your skin while painting...NOTHING will get it off... though it will gradually wear off over a week or so...
Marilyn Ward A week,my hand was almost fully covered it took 24 hours on a 80 degree day por just fell off.I guess ever body different.If you want to speed up the process I suggest putting on rubber gloves.This will make you hands sweat lifting off the por 15
The "Metal Prep" used at 3:40 leaves an iron phosphate conversion coating on the metal prior to coating with P.O.R. This basically the same as "Fast Etch" from Eastwood. I would like to use P.O.R. on the frame and bottom of the cab of a 67 C10, but spent the real money for SPI epoxy primer for the soon to be painted panels. I can do only one panel at a time after loosing my huge garage for my wife's newer house. A Retire ASE Master tech of 30 yrs. quickly fills up any garage after bringing home all of the tool boxes and 50 some plastic boxes of special tools. The SPI epoxy has a 7 day open window to apply catalyzed filler and sand to flat. The epoxy & filler cure together. Cleaned panels that are sand with 80 grit, pre-clean prep and dry, are good to go.The sanded filler can be covered to be water proof with SPI epoxy primer again diluted with a urethane grade reducer (Their Specs) to act as a sealer while I go to the next panel. Sucks, but the only plan I can handle. With trucks, the back of the cab and bed front (At least) have to be painted while apart. The aged SPI epoxy allows for 400 grit maroon/red nylon pad action with a pre cleaner to prep for painting base coat. The older C10 allows for complete disassembly of the bed, so P.O.R. can go inside the bedsides up to the post stake holes. The would add extreme protection at a reduced cost. I just want see someone show actual P.O.R. over 3 - 5 years of normal use in the areas that see salt on roads for 6 month a year. This is last project and my daily driver when done. Then son gets it. Show us some older P.O.R. product that was applied right and driven. That's all most of us want to see.
@@brianpacheco1927 My first truck cost $150 a 65 C10 Apache was a service truck for a large construction company. He brought diesel fuel and oil to the Scrapers, Caterpillars, Backhoes and Graders. The wood floor was soaked and never rotted nor the frame. Merry Christmas and Happy 2023! Sounds weird to say that, like some future place in time. Ya, 28 days in the future! Stay safe all.
They recommend two coats, so I guess you'd need the gallon size to do the whole truck or SUV. That, plus sufficient amounts of the degreaser, metal prep, and a quart of the urethane top coat... you'll be spending upwards of $350. That's totally understandable if your car is worth a lot or you live in the rust belt. For my rust-free 2000 4runner I think I will spray some motor oil down there instead.
I live in Denver and I decided to use POR 15 on my frame since the factory coat wore off. Denver isn’t rusty by any means so I wonder if this is overkill
When do you paint the topcoat? When the POR 15 is still tacky? Can you topcoat when the POR 15 is no longer tacky, and if so, do you need to sand first? Thank you, Jim.
4:50 If you don't clean off the rim and lid to bare metal you won't be opening that can again. Ask me how I know. Isn't a Skid Plate under the vehicle? No UV problems
Would you be able to use the metal prep on an already painted surface? I got a new diff cover that I spray painted black before I learned about this system. Wanted to know if I have to strip it back down to bare metal first.
Speaking from much experience with POR-15, Eastwood Rust Reformer, Rust Bullet and a host of many, many others...It WILL peel off no matter how much preparation you do. I've went as far as sandblasting, wiping with MEK, using the prescribed degreasers and promoting adhesion through mechanical surface preparation. If you want results, use Cosmoline or create your own rustproofing mixing a tube of grease, a gallon of boiled linseed oil and a quart of engine oil.
Having read so much about this paint, I thought I would try it. My test is challenging for any paint - rust-proofing the underside of a lawn mower deck. What I did: after removing any loose rust, I applied two coats of this paint and allowed several days to dry before running the mower. I ran the mower for one grass cutting session - about an hour of continuous use, then inspected the painted surface. The results: this paint tends to peel off in sheets (as others have found) and bonds significantly less well than a conventional wax-based car underseal (which I normally use). A couple of things to note: - I did not use the recommended two stage preparation process. I will therefore try this next and report back on results. - the exceptional high cost - especially if the preparation stages are used. My conclusion: this paint, when used alone, ie without costly surface preparation, is ineffective for rust protecting in high impact areas, particularly when applied to pre-painted or non-rusted surfaces - where bonding is particularly poor.
Spray paint obviously because it's basically the same as one of their topcoats. Undercoating i'm interested in finding out. Because I need to do the underbody of my car.
Any brush will work at the cheap throwaway ones I've used. I still have a big drop of POR 15 on my garage floor that was wet and dirty. If you get it on your skin it does not come off until you shed your skin.
A video on how people might apply the POR-15 technology to the insides of their (Jeep) frame rails would be helpful, my thought is to use a sprayer hose with a broad pattern tip that fits through frame holes... such that it can be fed all the way to end of the channel, turned on (for each step) - and drawn back to the entry point for complete coverage inside the frame rails, as is done for the external methods like this skid plate.
To anyone considering doing this I strongly recommend using a non setting rust preventative film material such as Dyntax S-50 and just reapplying every couple of years. The reason for this is you cannot clear the inside of a frame properly enough to guarantee por-15 effectiveness.
Great video. Very informative.I have a 2006 Tacoma V6, with severe frame rust. Can you give an approximate estimate of how much Por 15 I will need to purchase in order to do an effective job? Thanks for your time and attention.
Have a ton of old rags, multiple pairs of gloves, sheets of cardboard and Acetone handy (fingernail polish remover). Might try greasing your arms and face with some moisturizer prior to the job. Close all doors in your house if you have an attached garage. It's not that stinky but it can still make you "stupid/slow" for a couple of days. Dollar stores often have $1 bottles of acetone btw! Whatever you use to apply POR-15 will likely be considered garbage afterwards.
Do you think this will help stop rust that starting in my wheel wells on my car? No holes yet but might have one or two small bubbles on the outer fender.
In your Wrangler carpeting replacement video there was a lot of rust under the footrest on the driver side. Do you have a video on how to clean that up? Want to understand how much of the rust you need to remove.
I’m restoring a vw beetle floor pan and I’ve replaced some panels they have come in that black travel paint do you recommend taking that off before putting por on it or just key it up ? Thanks
So I'm doing a full resto on an 81 k20. I'm from Vermont so we have salt on the road for about 6-7 months out of the year. Naturally our rust laws have gotten so bad we find ourselves doing body work at least once a year. So I plan on buying a lot...A Lot of this crap because I want to coat the frame as well as the inside/outside of all body panels, inside and all around the cab and bed. I will use the top coat stuff as well but I also want to paint the truck another color. So here's the juicy question. Does por15 make a wide variety of colors in the top coat finishers... If not, what kinds of colored paints will bond strongly to the top coat such as achrylic enamels, urathanes, etc
Haha I always throw a piece of plastic(the kind you use to wrap food) inbetween the can and lid! You're right, they will end up distroying that can trying to pull the lid off of it!
You bet your ass he didn't! I busted the can open used what I needed, and pored the 3/4 of a qt left over in a mason jar using a piece of poley as a gasket under the cove worked great
@@garyrasmusson1512 just put a screw on the side of the can with a hole big enough to pour some out. I have one in the garage that has been like that for two years and product still moves around in the can.
I have a hotel 52 rooms, that have metal doors that paint will not stick to. I have sanded, cleaned, primed and painted but doesn't last. Using this system, does it work when put on over old paint (not all came off during prep)? Can you use the paint of your choice for the top (final) coat? Thanks for your help! Scott
@@tomallen2401 POR 15 says if you sandblast then the first 2 steps can be skipped so as long as its absolutely clean I don't see why not. In fact I've used POR15 before over right over lightly wire brushed rust and it stopped the rust cold and lasted 30 years so far. so I think the acid etching phosphate metal prep is completely unnecessary. Once you completely seal the surface from oxygen rust simply cannot spread or worsen. That was the whole deal with POR 15 back when I discovered it 35 years ago. I think the new stuff is added value but not needed. I get it though, can't blame them for trying to make another buck. POR is expensive , but its the only stuff that works period!
So you just spray and wash into the ground? What king of chemicals are present in the soil after completed? Would they be toxic? I don’t want that stuff on my property.
Hi, I'm painting my F150 metal bumpers. When laying out the top coat. What temperature is best to do it in? Getting cold out here in MO around 40s and 50s.. would you suggest to use a space heater or heat gun? And how many coats of top coat should lay out? I bought the prep rust primer and top coat paint as suggest by shop. Thanks.
I use this in a hot climate. I really don't think anything under 70 degrees is a good idea. I believe it would be too thick and risky and messy to experiment with.
Quick Question?… when I applied metal prep I kept it wet for about 20 minutes, when it dried it had a white chalky film all over it, I didn’t know what to do then. I didn’t know if I tried wiping it off if it would hurt the zinc or etching part of the chemical, any suggestions???
Can you please confirm, when applying rubber based underseal over por 15, is it better to let to dry until tacky or let it fully cure then sand surface before applying underseal?
I’m gonna paint the frame on my ‘71 f100 and I’m curious if I sandblast the frame do I need the metal etcher? I would think the surface would be rough enough for the paint to adhere
Use the etch...a gallon of it doesn’t cost that much, and you KNOW it will adhere properly. I watched a video where a guy claims por15 is junk, but he didn’t etch the metal, and his por just flaked off. I did my 70 F100 frame in 2019. Just scraped/brushed/rough prepped it, degreased (I used wd40 degreaser instead of the por degreaser), metal etch, and brushed por on using chip brushes. Turned out great.
Some of my POR 15 Metal prep may have dried before I rinsed it off. Unfortunately it has been day since this has occurred. Do I need to reapply all over the surface again?
I thought you have to scuff with 320 grit before applying additional coats. I wish the directions were more clear, I could’ve saved a lot of time and energy if they were.
ABSOLUTELY ! And safety goggles ! I ended up with a headache and burning eyes for 3 days after using this stuff ! And I applied it outside with a brush NOT a sprayer ! Everyone needs to READ the safety precautions on the box and can and FOLLOW THEM !! This stuff is Nasty !
If you pour it out of the can like that you're not going to be able to reuse the lid of more than a few times if that. The stuff will dry up no matter how little time it's exposed to air. So don't buy the gallon size and expected to last for weeks. It's pretty good stuff but it's definitely not perfect probably nothing is. Maybe it works better if you can get both sides of the metal. If you're in the Rust Belt of America you're going to have to keep applying probably every year or other year. The stuff isn't cheap so don't let it go to waste
With the cost of all the different layers, and the labour required to apply all those layers properly, it's probably cheaper just to save your money and time and just buy a replacement part later when the original has rusted through.
Question- can you mix the por15 rust preventer with the por 15 solvent to thin the Por 15 rust preventer? I have several people who say- It's okay to use the solution and other say don't use it. I ask because like a lot of videos things get left out. I was told the rust preventer was thin and a quart would go pretty far. But it seems very thick. I have applied the preventer to the inside of my chassis on one side-- without using the POR 15 Solvent- just not sure if I do use the Solvent what amount to mix with the preventer
Based off of my small can of por15, you can cut/dilute por15 with their solvent. Follow their directions and instructions and you should end up with very desirable results.
I'd like to know what all the POR products cost for this video because I bet having it powder coated would have been much less money and 100% less work.
Definitely less work and probably less money. Paint alone for my chassis was £150. I could have got it blasted and powder coated for £250 (that's a good price) but powder coating won't last as long. Water eventually gets under it. Also, I know I will need to carry out welds for the build that I can't plan for yet and touching up powder coating will just look a mess.
I'm prepping a chassis for POR 15. Did the Cleaner Degreaser and Metal Prep yesterday. I have a question about the Metal Prep. I must have left it dry too long and must have applied too much with the brush. After thoroughly rinsing, there was a lot of white dust still on the surface. I have rinsed it off many times, even brushing it down while rinsing. Must of the white residue is gone. Can I use Eastwood Pre Paint to get rid of the little powder that's still on the surface? Thanks!
Hey Robert, I've used POR-15 quite a bit thru the years. A few times (after PREP) there was a lot of white residue and I was nervous about it. But I went for it and years later the parts are still looking great. Seems like as long as you hose it off with a hose equipped with a nozzle under average pressure you'll be good. Just wonder, if you slide your finger across the prepped surface, is it covered in white powder? If not, it should be ready to paint. FYI, I've been using a prepping/etching product from Home Depo, with great results. It's about $16 a gallon and that really helps the project budget. It's Phosphoric Acid so take all the safety precautions. It's by Klean-Strip, called Concrete Etch & Metal Prep + Rust Inhibitor. Ya know as long as i'm giving out secrets...I use undiluted Simple Green (100% strength) as my first step to clean & degrease. About $10 a gallon. Use the money saved to buy a couple good spray bottles. I got a gallon of each and 2 sprayers for about $30. That was 2 years, and quit a few projects ago, and I still have more than half of each left. That's my 2 cents, good luck with the project.
So, the main thing nobody understood, that what actually fight the rust is not the red can, but the thing, that transforms rust. And it's The blue sticker. Right?
I have tried to use black POR 15. I went through all the prep steps but still had unsatisfactory results. I love the hard, high gloss deep luster finish. Problem is when it dries there are tiny specs through out the surface. Look like sand. I contacted tech support at POR they said to apply thinner coat, I’m applying with a brush. I tried that same result. I even tried to filter the product. I did not shake it so it is not air bubbles. Any thoughts ??
I think you got solvent pop. Sand down the area with 320 w/d and re coat the area. Put a coat on thats un thinned, and brush slowly with brush tipped at a 45 degree angle. Let me know if it flattened out
Have heard nothing but good things about Por15. Only question I have is everything is rinsed with "water". How do you rinse the inside flooring? Simply wiping it with a wet sponge doesn't seem correct. and anything else would let water into small holes and cracks.
Used the POR-15 Caliper Paint kit on my car back in 2009. 12 years later, looks almost as good as the day I applied it. Held up amazing! Just follow the instructions and apply in humid conditions for best results.
Just this year I had some lally-columns in my crawl space there were subject to moisture and started to have scale and flaking rust present, especially at the base of the columns. I scraped all the loose rust off, wire brushed down the columns, used the degreaser, wire brushed the degreaser in again, rinsed with water to clean the surface. A day later used the metal prep applying liberally for 30-mins and then let dry. Went back a few days later after all surfaces were dry, then applied POR-15 gray rust preventative on the columns in two coats. Being in the basement, where its pretty humid and will never see UV, just the rust preventative coat should suffice for many years to come. Bye-bye rust!
This stuff is no joke though....follow all the safety precautions. Its not for the faint of heart!
Are you paid to promote por-15?
@@michaelwoods3850 lol, right, I wish! No, I am not. I'm just your regular home DIY'er type of guy.
Most definitely follow the precautions and definitely wear a respirator and goggles even if outside and using a brush to apply ! I had headaches and burning eyes for 3 days after using this stuff ! The warnings on the box are for REAL !
People talk shit about it but I used it 26 years ago I used the kit back then it wasn’t as popular I treated the floor boards in a 1968 400 firebird. It worked awesome!! The cane out near bullet proof. I would recommend it anytime that straight up welding new metal is not a current option for whatever reason!! 5* out 5 from this guy!!
I would not recommend this product. Used por15 on my door, engine blew up next day.
I hate to be that guy, but everyone should be asking if that urethane paint and especially the hardener contain isocyanates. If so, you can build up an allergy from exposure. No bueno. It's odorless, so organic vapor cartridges can be used, but you won't know when they're full. Also, your eyes can absorb these solvents. Supplied air full face respirator is the right way to paint, especially with hardeners. If you're cool risking it, fine, but please read what's on the ingredients list and educate yourself before you compromise your health or your family's. At least have good ventilation where you paint. This is not the same as using a can of duplicolor.
Is it okay to have it in the vehicle floor pan once it is dry? I mean, it'll be covered with dynomate and carpet
I worked in a body shop when urethane paint came out. We used Amerflint. The first time it was used in the shop I found I was extremely allergic to it. My boss opened the can across the shop and mixed the paint. I suddenly couldn't breath. One of my coworkers saw me and went to a nearby pharmacy and bought me an inhaler. This saved my life. I warn anyone that may have asthma or grew up with asthma to stay away from urethane paint that uses isicyinates. Good luck.
I’m glad you said this. Some people just don’t care but many don’t know, and if they did they would probably take needed precautions to protect themselves.
I haven't even finished watching the video yet and I'm seeing all these processes and finishes that go along with it now. It almost goes against the original intent of the original product which was paint over rust. Now it's all these chemicals and processes that have to be done before this product is effective. Just saying
@alloutofdonuts3998 got it all on my hands before. Won't do it again, but I'm still here
Great stuff! I'm about to shrink wrap my arms to finish my frame and fender wells. BTW if you have a steel, F150 with fender flares (FX4 etc) carefully pull the rear flares off (temporarily) and pump this stuff into the mounting holes if you live in the rust-belt. Poke around with a steel pick using a mirror and a flashlight... remove rusty chunks and rotting foam... flush with garden hose and compressed air. Dry and apply. Foam rollers and foam sticks are helpful. Drive something else for 3 or 4 days...wait 24 hours between coats. Get pints from Advance Auto Parts. Use old vitamin bottles for left over paint. (partial cans dry up fast and the lid will seal itself shut... you'll need a church-key to pop a hole or 2).
Tip: Adhesive foam stuck onto a hacksaw blade works really well for tight nooks and crannies!
To keep cans fresh cover the top with plastic wrap and spray in some keyboard air duster then reseal with the original cap over the plastic wrap. It's havier than air and will prevent it from setting. Works well with paint. I'd give that a shot, for science.
I've been using por-15 for a long time. What we did was put a large sheet metal screw into the top and then tighten it all the way down. If we need to use the por-15 enjoy the container. I have always bought the six pack POR. I found on the courts that if you don't use it all and you shield a nice sheet metal screw idea it will go bad on you it will harden. Just my two cents.
I love this stuff....I've used it many times. Use gloves always, stuff is hardcore. First time I used it, I hit the lid down trying to close the can and it splattered....I had black freckles all over my face for the better part of a month.
S K adheres well to skin, fingernails, and porous surfaces - rust and metal not so much. They’re making a new bs product under a new name in an attempt to distance themselves from this poor shitteen.
Mark Adrian I coated a rusty trailer hitch 3 years ago and it still looks perfect. Always worked fine for me.
@@marka8537 SK? Can you elaborate please? I would really like to know.
@@saintadolf5639 sandblast down to bare metal, etched primer and quality paint. There is no substitute. If you can’t sandblast, stripper, wire wheel, sanding, etc. then clean with acetone or similar. POR will adhere/bond to rust at a specific stage, the rest of the colors in the rainbow of rust - not so much
Do you know if the primer is all that necessary? I’ve seen tutorials about POR15 where people skipped the primer step entirely
Great video...Thanks!It's worth mentioning as well that, (Speaking from experience...), you do NOT want to get any POR 15 on your skin while painting...NOTHING will get it off... though it will gradually wear off over a week or so...
I found the best way to get it off vaseline and wear a pair of nitrile gloves for a day will peel off sleep with them on lol...
Marilyn Ward A week,my hand was almost fully covered it took 24 hours on a 80 degree day por just fell off.I guess ever body different.If you want to speed up the process I suggest putting on rubber gloves.This will make you hands sweat lifting off the por 15
@@mr-t1243 I pity the fool that believes your bullshit.
You know the saying,"once you go black, you never go back. "...
The "Metal Prep" used at 3:40 leaves an iron phosphate conversion coating on the metal prior to coating with P.O.R. This basically the same as "Fast Etch" from Eastwood. I would like to use P.O.R. on the frame and bottom of the cab of a 67 C10, but spent the real money for SPI epoxy primer for the soon to be painted panels. I can do only one panel at a time after loosing my huge garage for my wife's newer house. A Retire ASE Master tech of 30 yrs. quickly fills up any garage after bringing home all of the tool boxes and 50 some plastic boxes of special tools. The SPI epoxy has a 7 day open window to apply catalyzed filler and sand to flat. The epoxy & filler cure together. Cleaned panels that are sand with 80 grit, pre-clean prep and dry, are good to go.The sanded filler can be covered to be water proof with SPI epoxy primer again diluted with a urethane grade reducer (Their Specs) to act as a sealer while I go to the next panel. Sucks, but the only plan I can handle. With trucks, the back of the cab and bed front (At least) have to be painted while apart. The aged SPI epoxy allows for 400 grit maroon/red nylon pad action with a pre cleaner to prep for painting base coat. The older C10 allows for complete disassembly of the bed, so P.O.R. can go inside the bedsides up to the post stake holes. The would add extreme protection at a reduced cost.
I just want see someone show actual P.O.R. over 3 - 5 years of normal use in the areas that see salt on roads for 6 month a year. This is last project and my daily driver when done. Then son gets it. Show us some older P.O.R. product that was applied right and driven. That's all most of us want to see.
Have New Hampshire Oil sprayed every few years no problems
@@brianpacheco1927 My first truck cost $150 a 65 C10 Apache was a service truck for a large construction company. He brought diesel fuel and oil to the Scrapers, Caterpillars, Backhoes and Graders. The wood floor was soaked and never rotted nor the frame. Merry Christmas and Happy 2023! Sounds weird to say that, like some future place in time. Ya, 28 days in the future! Stay safe all.
Does all paint need to be removed from your project in order to use this system?
They recommend two coats, so I guess you'd need the gallon size to do the whole truck or SUV. That, plus sufficient amounts of the degreaser, metal prep, and a quart of the urethane top coat... you'll be spending upwards of $350. That's totally understandable if your car is worth a lot or you live in the rust belt. For my rust-free 2000 4runner I think I will spray some motor oil down there instead.
I live in Denver and I decided to use POR 15 on my frame since the factory coat wore off. Denver isn’t rusty by any means so I wonder if this is overkill
When do you paint the topcoat? When the POR 15 is still tacky? Can you topcoat when the POR 15 is no longer tacky, and if so, do you need to sand first? Thank you, Jim.
I would let it cure,then light sanding, top coat
4:50 If you don't clean off the rim and lid to bare metal you won't be opening that can again. Ask me how I know. Isn't a Skid Plate under the vehicle? No UV problems
Would you be able to use the metal prep on an already painted surface? I got a new diff cover that I spray painted black before I learned about this system. Wanted to know if I have to strip it back down to bare metal first.
I have a similar application. How did you end up using the Por-15?
Did the final UV coating come with a pigment adder to get the final color can this be changed
Speaking from much experience with POR-15, Eastwood Rust Reformer, Rust Bullet and a host of many, many others...It WILL peel off no matter how much preparation you do. I've went as far as sandblasting, wiping with MEK, using the prescribed degreasers and promoting adhesion through mechanical surface preparation. If you want results, use Cosmoline or create your own rustproofing mixing a tube of grease, a gallon of boiled linseed oil and a quart of engine oil.
Jesse Guy how do you apply it after you make the concoction?
Voodoo magic
Excellent video! I so wich I'd seen this one BEFORE I did my project. The idea of using a plastic container BEFORE painting is BOSS!
Having read so much about this paint, I thought I would try
it. My test is challenging for any paint - rust-proofing the underside of a
lawn mower deck.
What I did: after removing any loose rust, I applied two
coats of this paint and allowed several days to dry before running the mower. I
ran the mower for one grass cutting session - about an hour of continuous use,
then inspected the painted surface.
The results: this paint tends to peel off in sheets (as
others have found) and bonds significantly less well than a conventional wax-based
car underseal (which I normally use).
A couple of things to note:
-
I did not use the recommended two stage preparation
process. I will therefore try this next and report back on results.
-
the exceptional high cost - especially if the preparation
stages are used.
My conclusion: this paint, when used alone, ie without
costly surface preparation, is ineffective for rust protecting in high impact
areas, particularly when applied to pre-painted or non-rusted surfaces - where bonding
is particularly poor.
If you DONT do the two stage preparation
process POR15 will NOT work, you have to do alll the steps
Can you add like spray paint on top or undercoating on it?
good question
Spray paint obviously because it's basically the same as one of their topcoats. Undercoating i'm interested in finding out. Because I need to do the underbody of my car.
Can I use any other paint on it, or I have to use only POR-15 paint.
Hello and thanks for sharing. What type of brush hair is recommended to apply the por 15 thanks.
Any brush will work at the cheap throwaway ones I've used. I still have a big drop of POR 15 on my garage floor that was wet and dirty. If you get it on your skin it does not come off until you shed your skin.
A video on how people might apply the POR-15 technology to the insides of their (Jeep) frame rails would be helpful, my thought is to use a sprayer hose with a broad pattern tip that fits through frame holes... such that it can be fed all the way to end of the channel, turned on (for each step) - and drawn back to the entry point for complete coverage inside the frame rails, as is done for the external methods like this skid plate.
To anyone considering doing this I strongly recommend using a non setting rust preventative film material such as Dyntax S-50 and just reapplying every couple of years.
The reason for this is you cannot clear the inside of a frame properly enough to guarantee por-15 effectiveness.
Great video. Very informative.I have a 2006 Tacoma V6, with severe frame rust. Can you give an approximate estimate of how much Por 15 I will need to purchase in order to do an effective job? Thanks for your time and attention.
If using this under the chassis do you still need to use a top coat to help so it doesn't brake down from UV?
So what if your under your car in your work shop and moving the car isn't an option, nor is taking a hose into the work shop to rinse it down?
Simply put water into a spray bottle and spray it down.
for under chassis where it is not exposed to UV, do. you still need top coat ?
Have a ton of old rags, multiple pairs of gloves, sheets of cardboard and Acetone handy (fingernail polish remover). Might try greasing your arms and face with some moisturizer prior to the job. Close all doors in your house if you have an attached garage. It's not that stinky but it can still make you "stupid/slow" for a couple of days.
Dollar stores often have $1 bottles of acetone btw!
Whatever you use to apply POR-15 will likely be considered garbage afterwards.
After rinsing the degreaser, do you need to let it dry before applying the metal prep?
Do you think this will help stop rust that starting in my wheel wells on my car? No holes yet but might have one or two small bubbles on the outer fender.
In your Wrangler carpeting replacement video there was a lot of rust under the footrest on the driver side. Do you have a video on how to clean that up? Want to understand how much of the rust you need to remove.
How do you wash step #1 and step #2 if you applying inside a car
I’m restoring a vw beetle floor pan and I’ve replaced some panels they have come in that black travel paint do you recommend taking that off before putting por on it or just key it up ? Thanks
Yes
Do you have to rinse the cleaner and prep off because I can't rinse the area off because my vans fully kitted out and only have a small area to do
Can I use this on aluminum? I like the hardness of the product. N how much heat can it stand?? Like an aluminum intake??
So I'm doing a full resto on an 81 k20. I'm from Vermont so we have salt on the road for about 6-7 months out of the year. Naturally our rust laws have gotten so bad we find ourselves doing body work at least once a year. So I plan on buying a lot...A Lot of this crap because I want to coat the frame as well as the inside/outside of all body panels, inside and all around the cab and bed. I will use the top coat stuff as well but I also want to paint the truck another color. So here's the juicy question. Does por15 make a wide variety of colors in the top coat finishers... If not, what kinds of colored paints will bond strongly to the top coat such as achrylic enamels, urathanes, etc
What is the Ambient, Parts and POR-15 use temperature range. Thank You.
bet you never got that lid off the Rust Preventative again. ;-)
How do you use just part of a can of por 15
Haha
I always throw a piece of plastic(the kind you use to wrap food) inbetween the can and lid!
You're right, they will end up distroying that can trying to pull the lid off of it!
You bet your ass he didn't! I busted the can open used what I needed, and pored the 3/4 of a qt left over in a mason jar using a piece of poley as a gasket under the cove worked great
@@garyrasmusson1512 just put a screw on the side of the can with a hole big enough to pour some out. I have one in the garage that has been like that for two years and product still moves around in the can.
@@garyrasmusson1512 I put mine in an old vitamin bottle :) Tape the cap too.
I have a hotel 52 rooms, that have metal doors that paint will not stick to. I have sanded, cleaned, primed and painted but doesn't last. Using this system, does it work when put on over old paint (not all came off during prep)? Can you use the paint of your choice for the top (final) coat? Thanks for your help!
Scott
I plan on using POR for my frame. would I need to top coat it or would a clear coat rattle can be OK?
What route did you take? Thinking a rattle can will do fine. Also whatever you used how’d it hold up
If you wire brush the metal to a bare metal surface can you skip the first 2 items in this video?
No, you have to do all 3 steps
@@tomallen2401 POR 15 says if you sandblast then the first 2 steps can be skipped so as long as its absolutely clean I don't see why not. In fact I've used POR15 before over right over lightly wire brushed rust and it stopped the rust cold and lasted 30 years so far. so I think the acid etching phosphate metal prep is completely unnecessary. Once you completely seal the surface from oxygen rust simply cannot spread or worsen. That was the whole deal with POR 15 back when I discovered it 35 years ago. I think the new stuff is added value but not needed. I get it though, can't blame them for trying to make another buck. POR is expensive , but its the only stuff that works period!
por 15 can be sprayed - it has to be thinned with POR 15 thinner/solvent
So you just spray and wash into the ground?
What king of chemicals are present in the soil after completed?
Would they be toxic?
I don’t want that stuff on my property.
Go back in your hole boomer
Hi, I'm painting my F150 metal bumpers. When laying out the top coat. What temperature is best to do it in? Getting cold out here in MO around 40s and 50s.. would you suggest to use a space heater or heat gun? And how many coats of top coat should lay out? I bought the prep rust primer and top coat paint as suggest by shop. Thanks.
I use this in a hot climate. I really don't think anything under 70 degrees is a good idea. I believe it would be too thick and risky and messy to experiment with.
Is it really enough to spray the degreaser and hose off. No elbow grease required?
Richard Schofield no, it’s junk. There’s no good shortcut
Can this go on metal pool railing to prevent? Would contaminate the pool water?
Quick Question?… when I applied metal prep I kept it wet for about 20 minutes, when it dried it had a white chalky film all over it, I didn’t know what to do then. I didn’t know if I tried wiping it off if it would hurt the zinc or etching part of the chemical, any suggestions???
if there's rust inside the frame, wouldn't the rust still spread?
Can you please confirm, when applying rubber based underseal over por 15, is it better to let to dry until tacky or let it fully cure then sand surface before applying underseal?
I’m gonna paint the frame on my ‘71 f100 and I’m curious if I sandblast the frame do I need the metal etcher? I would think the surface would be rough enough for the paint to adhere
Use the etch...a gallon of it doesn’t cost that much, and you KNOW it will adhere properly. I watched a video where a guy claims por15 is junk, but he didn’t etch the metal, and his por just flaked off.
I did my 70 F100 frame in 2019. Just scraped/brushed/rough prepped it, degreased (I used wd40 degreaser instead of the por degreaser), metal etch, and brushed por on using chip brushes. Turned out great.
Dries faster with more moisture?
Do you topcoat while the rust preventor is tacky or dry?
how has it held up since applying?
what if you want to use paint over the metal prep as a conversion coating?
If coating the bottom side of a mower deck, is it necessary to get 100% of the old grass that gets baked on after time goes by, off?
Bobbie , actually before I paint anything I usually coat the surface with old grass.
@@Dixler683 yeah I always grab some old grass and throw it on whatever I’m about to paint. Works like a charm
Can the top coat be the POR15 1200 F degree spray paint and is it (the paint) glossy?
Some of my POR 15 Metal prep may have dried before I rinsed it off. Unfortunately it has been day since this has occurred. Do I need to reapply all over the surface again?
Can por 15 mixt with thinner?
Can you spray it on??
Wonder if you can paint the bottom of a lawn mower deck with this
Can this stuff be sprayed on?...
Larry
Hey can I paint over a 3 years old POR 15 on my frame ?
How do you get pro -15 off your skin?
Sections of my 2013 corolla rusting. I have to apply it slumped on the ground looking up. My fear is a drop or two into my eye or on skin.
... safety goggles or a face shield as well as long sleeve shirt. It's not that hard🤷🏻♂️
Does that degreaser take off oil ????
How’d it turn orange?
I thought you have to scuff with 320 grit before applying additional coats. I wish the directions were more clear, I could’ve saved a lot of time and energy if they were.
Would you just put primer over the POR 15 paint if you're doing car fenders, rockers, etc?
Not exposed to sunlight i wouldn't bother
I'm going to use some of this to paint the inner surface of the front wings of my e46 3 series before fitting them.
front wings? bmw plane? what...
They call fenders wings in other places of the world
Can I paint over factory paint on a utility trailer?
Hi I have a question after you finish can you paint on over it
Yes, you can paint over the POR-15 with a top coat.
Thanks appreciate it respect
How do I make my frame you know... not bright orange?...
Great video thank you
Do you need to use a respirator when using these products?
ABSOLUTELY ! And safety goggles ! I ended up with a headache and burning eyes for 3 days after using this stuff ! And I applied it outside with a brush NOT a sprayer ! Everyone needs to READ the safety precautions on the box and can and FOLLOW THEM !! This stuff is Nasty !
4:04 isn't it counter-intuitive to rinse a steel part with water prior to applying a rust-protective paint? That just doesn't make any sense...
Skip to 3:15 to cut through the clutter
Why didn't you sand and rough up the metal?
With por 15 there is no need to do pre prep work you have already done this with the first two steps
After the metal prep step, can I wait a few days before apply the POR15?
'Going ahead' is super popular in the States :D
Not just me that noticed that then?
If you pour it out of the can like that you're not going to be able to reuse the lid of more than a few times if that. The stuff will dry up no matter how little time it's exposed to air. So don't buy the gallon size and expected to last for weeks.
It's pretty good stuff but it's definitely not perfect probably nothing is. Maybe it works better if you can get both sides of the metal. If you're in the Rust Belt of America you're going to have to keep applying probably every year or other year. The stuff isn't cheap so don't let it go to waste
I'm glad I read this.
With the cost of all the different layers, and the labour required to apply all those layers properly, it's probably cheaper just to save your money and time and just buy a replacement part later when the original has rusted through.
I called por15 and they said any base coat can be used...in other words doesn’t have to be por15 product
Would this be useable and effective on softer materials like body panels as well? I've seen it been used as repair for underside car restoration
Question- can you mix the por15 rust preventer with the por 15 solvent to thin the Por 15 rust preventer? I have several people who say- It's okay to use the solution and other say don't use it. I ask because like a lot of videos things get left out. I was told the rust preventer was thin and a quart would go pretty far. But it seems very thick. I have applied the preventer to the inside of my chassis on one side-- without using the POR 15 Solvent- just not sure if I do use the Solvent what amount to mix with the preventer
Based off of my small can of por15, you can cut/dilute por15 with their solvent. Follow their directions and instructions and you should end up with very desirable results.
Cal I get it in Grey color?
como aplico el metal prep
can you use this on top of powder coat?
How does one clean the inside of a fuel tank?
I don't see a respirator, or any mention of proper ventilation.
Great vid thank you
I'd like to know what all the POR products cost for this video because I bet having it powder coated would have been much less money and 100% less work.
Definitely less work and probably less money.
Paint alone for my chassis was £150.
I could have got it blasted and powder coated for £250 (that's a good price) but powder coating won't last as long.
Water eventually gets under it.
Also, I know I will need to carry out welds for the build that I can't plan for yet and touching up powder coating will just look a mess.
I'm prepping a chassis for POR 15. Did the Cleaner Degreaser and Metal Prep yesterday. I have a question about the Metal Prep. I must have left it dry too long and must have applied too much with the brush. After thoroughly rinsing, there was a lot of white dust still on the surface. I have rinsed it off many times, even brushing it down while rinsing. Must of the white residue is gone. Can I use Eastwood Pre Paint to get rid of the little powder that's still on the surface? Thanks!
Hey Robert, I've used POR-15 quite a bit thru the years. A few times (after PREP) there was a lot of white residue and I was nervous about it. But I went for it and years later the parts are still looking great. Seems like as long as you hose it off with a hose equipped with a nozzle under average pressure you'll be good. Just wonder, if you slide your finger across the prepped surface, is it covered in white powder? If not, it should be ready to paint.
FYI, I've been using a prepping/etching product from Home Depo, with great results. It's about $16 a gallon and that really helps the project budget. It's Phosphoric Acid so take all the safety precautions.
It's by Klean-Strip, called Concrete Etch & Metal Prep + Rust Inhibitor. Ya know as long as i'm giving out secrets...I use undiluted Simple Green (100% strength) as my first step to clean & degrease. About $10 a gallon. Use the money saved to buy a couple good spray bottles. I got a gallon of each and 2 sprayers for about $30. That was 2 years, and quit a few projects ago, and I still have more than half of each left. That's my 2 cents, good luck with the project.
@@markburrows9105 Thank you for the response Mark! I'll be following your suggestions...
Do you need the part b for the top coat?
Can POR-15 be topcoated with epoxy primer?
Absolutely
Yes
Could I use VHT roll bar and chassis can paint as a top coat?
Luis Sonoma no use lacquer, enamels, anything but this crap
"Incredible toughness, hardness and flexibility"
😂 That's what she said!...
@@victorjbarkerI think he means that those things in combination is an oxymoron
So, the main thing nobody understood, that what actually fight the rust is not the red can, but the thing, that transforms rust. And it's The blue sticker. Right?
I have tried to use black POR 15. I went through all the prep steps but still had unsatisfactory results. I love the hard, high gloss deep luster finish. Problem is when it dries there are tiny specs through out the surface. Look like sand. I contacted tech support at POR they said to apply thinner coat, I’m applying with a brush. I tried that same result. I even tried to filter the product. I did not shake it so it is not air bubbles. Any thoughts ??
I think you got solvent pop. Sand down the area with 320 w/d and re coat the area. Put a coat on thats un thinned, and brush slowly with brush tipped at a 45 degree angle. Let me know if it flattened out
Does this work on aluminum?
Aluminum doesn't rust brother...
@@DriftlessCatholic Technically it does, producing aluminum oxide (which is aluminum rust). Whether POR15 sticks to it I can't say. :)
Have heard nothing but good things about Por15. Only question I have is everything is rinsed with "water". How do you rinse the inside flooring? Simply wiping it with a wet sponge doesn't seem correct. and anything else would let water into small holes and cracks.
Perhaps a spray bottle and let it sit then wipe
jeff stewart you heard wrong -shit product. I’m peeling it off my frame to start over with primer and lacquer
Nice!
Do you have lime green paint for a top coat
Guys, it’s best stored in your workshop refrigerator.