Thanks to everyone who requested this one and please let me know which products you'd like tested in round 2. Thanks again, Todd Products Tested In This Video (in no particular order): Fluid Film: amzn.to/3gkefuK CRC HD Corrosion Inhibitor: amzn.to/3jfWsqD Corrosion Block: amzn.to/3giZpEW WD40 Specialist Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor: amzn.to/3laxHh1 Corrosion X: amzn.to/327Vdm4 Flex Seal: amzn.to/2FH2RMJ
Keep up the excellent work on your channel. Congratulations on the success of the channel. You deserve it for the very large amount of effort, work, and money spent to make your channel awsome as it is. THANK YOU FOR EVERYTHING YOU DO. 👏👏👏👏👏 ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐10/10 every time. 👏👏👏👏👏.
It’s incredible the amount of work he puts into his videos, so detailed and informative and of course honest as he has no sponsors. Hope the video gets millions of views 💪🏼
Neverthelast his modesty compared to other "famous" tubers he didnt let popularity corrupt his character really a guy I'd have as a pal. Best guy on the web
@@ProjectFarm I did indeed. So if I were to buy a truck for general small-farm use and some occasional off-road fun...am I correct in thinking that CRC is the ticket?
@@ItsIdaho Yup...what's great is that the info is actually usable. No clickbait, no long drawn out nonsense ending up with more talking than results. As a guy who spends a lot fo time in the garage/shop and makes TH-cam videos as well, this is one of my very favorite channels. Never lets me down.
@@ProjectFarm I'd like to see which spray can bed liner is the best. I'm about to do a couple of projects and I'd love to get your input on it. Keep up the great work! 👍🏻
I was literally thinking to myself if there is a better option than Fluid Film, and I stumbled upon this video. I drive a truck and live on a dirt road, so I genuinely appreciate the lengths you go to for testing.
Just don't breathe it when you apply it; use a very good respirator. One night, before I first used Fluid Film on a car, I dreamed that I murdered Gomer Pyle and others with it (which I felt bad about.) I then went to spray it on my Suburban and it got in my lungs so much that my brain felt like it was misfiring, I got depressed and it was just a bad idea to breathe it.
My car is 21 years old now and i have it coated professionally every year with Fluid Film, i am amazed how good it is at keeping rust at bay. Especially with all the salt on the road during the winter. Its not really a good penetrating oil though so i just buy a few extra cans and spray the underside extra thick then drive on some dusty roads to make a sticky mess under the car that will repel anything :) . By far the best application for it is in the car frame/inside the chassis to keep water out so the rust wont eat it inside out.
I tell my mom this all the time, shes an 8th grade Science teacher. The way he considers extraneous variables and strives to keep it as controlled as possible is truly an art form haha. Todd is the homie you never knew you needed.
I here it now... Mom I was doing my homework and I blew up the lawnmower, or Sorry Mrs. J, I did my math homework before my science homework, and while testing fuels, the lawnmower ate my math homework!
7 years of Fluid Film on my Honda (applied yearly) It has done very well in the Ohio rust belt, and when I look at the underside of similar aged cars, the difference is obvious. It is also very easy to apply, and keeps fasteners and bolts from rusting up on the undercarriage. I highly recommend it. Great video!
I'm in Pittsburgh, and sprayed my Subaru 7 years ago (and then touch up with cans once a year) and when you wipe your finger under the car, the film comes away and is beautifully clean underneath
Fluid Film is the best I have found for Iowa winter. I also use it to lube door hinges and latches on vehicles and use it on random pivot points on tractors, etc.
When I was still in the Navy we would coat are aircraft in Fluid Film everyday after a fresh water rinse while on deployment to protect them. We would use a lot of it on the magnesium gear boxes and steel screws and put a light coat on the aluminum skin. Trying to keep aircraft from corroding with salt spray everywhere is a pain and Fluid Film was a life saver. Glad to see it do well in your tests.
I’ve been using fluid film for 5 years on a truck I bought down south and I live in upstate ny our winters are brutal on vehicles and my truck is still rust free after 5 years of round year driving.
CRC is crazy, I bought it after reading tons of reviews and this just confirms it. I spray it on the electrical terminals and battery terminals on our boat and it keeps them flawless.
I use fluid film on my Jeep, Crown Vic ( every October ) and my mower decks ( everyMarch ). It seems to be good at preventing grass buildup on the mowers as well! Love to see how the other products work as well if I decide to change it up or try to look for something better. Thank you Project Farm!
The advantage of fluid film is that it is very penetrating. It creeps into the pinch welds at the edges of doors, fenders, and any places where seam sealer has failed. This is an important property. For any accessible surfaces, a coat of POR 15 paint followed by tar based brush on undercoating can give 15 years of rust free protection in salt. The ultimate, but it's a pile of work. l
@@maplebones I've found tar will crack with time....that's just as bad or worse than having nothing. Salt gets in the cracks and never gets washed away. I buy Fluid Film by the gallon and spray twice a year. Easy Peasy.
NitePHX 👍😆Current Clevelander here, planning on moving to Nevada one day. I have to admit not dealing with road salt anymore plays a part in my decision.
I use the fluid film to coat my table saw to keep the moisture from rusting the table. It does an absolute fantastic job of preventing surface rust. My shop is not heated allowing condensation to overtake all of my cast iron tables. When I need to use my tools, I wipe the film off with a cloth and it wipes off very good not causing any film on my wood projects...thanks for the tests!
You know I learned something from working alongside commercial steam pipe welders. It turns out that insulating steel and cast iron with a blanket or wood box, or fiberglass insulation, completely stops 100% of rust, by stopping 100% of the condensation. If you put a flat sheet of particle board over the entire top of your tablesaw, it won't rust AT ALL, even with 95% humidity. I stopped putting oil or fluid film on my cast iron table saw top, and started just keeping it covered with 2 slabs of particle board. My hydrometer said my shop had 95% humidity in the middle of winter, with absolutely no heat. I'm mad that nobody ever explained this to me, an air tight wooden tool box or blanket will prevent rust, by preventing warm air hitting the cold steel tools. I haven't oiled my table saw in 3 years now, and it still has no trace of rust. Oil + insulation = zero possibility of rust.
I am working in a R&D center. I can confirm that your experiments are really controlled and equally performed. Also your comments on the results are really conclusive and on point. Love your work!
@@31terikennedy no room between the leafs for corrosion to occur... then to allow your waste oil to sink in between the individual lengths, you need to rotate the leaf spring sideways... do you dunk ya vehicle into salt water??? Even then like the gentleman said... the vehicle would rust around the springs as spring steel has more Zinc Nickel Magnesium for its composition.
When ever I need a product and I don’t know witch one is the best . He’s the first thing I look up to see his test and reviews . What a great honest channel!
Many moons ago, I undercoated my F-350 with a combination of used motor oil with some diesel mixed in. The thought was, the diesel would allow the mixture to “crawl” into tight spaces and protect them. 3 weeks later we had a torrential downpour while I was on my way to the hardware store. I parked as far away from everyone (avoiding door dings). When I was walking back to the truck, I noticed a HUGE rainbow slick across the parking lot, which was emanating from my truck. It looked like the Exxon Valdez oil spill. I quickly vamoosed from the area, before anyone called the EPA.... never again!
My grandfather had a awesome undercoating ..hes passed on now but we are still trying to remember exactly what it was.. i think it Was along the lines of roof tar ..gas maybe some oil and thinner shoot it out of a old gun and then while its still wet go for a ride down a dirt road ... My dad still has that undercoating on his old shaggin wagon van ... And to be honest it Hasn't been re undercoated in over 20 years and its still good and black under there .. Amazing stuff man .
I just had my car fluid filmed for the first time this year. Do you ever run it through a car wash with undercarriage wash? Or does that mess with it in your experience?
I definitely chose fluid film because of cost and ease of application. I’m testing it as an undercoating for lawnmower Decks! I appreciate your scientific approach to testing these products. I learned a lot from PF. Blessings y’all!
If you want to coat a truck frame use the SEM ROCKIT Bedliner kits U won't be sorry. Then you can throw that Fluid shit back in the barn let the critters play with...
@@thekingsilverado8419 Do not under any circumstance ever ever apply bed liner to the underside of a vehicle. The frame will still look brand new after 3-5 years but you can poke a screwdriver right through it. It's outright dangerous to use bed liner or rubberized coating on the underside of a vehicle. It's meant to protect truck beds from dents and scratches and keep them looking nice. Nothing about it being meant to stop corrosion. It only stops incidental corrosion by making sure the stuff you slide around in the bed doesn't wear away the paint. If you want a nice looking vehicle that will crumple up into a ball of rust and your gory remains during a crash though by all means you do you.
I use fluid film on my plow truck. I always re apply every time I pressure was the under carriage. Old truck is 27 years old and still looks factory new.
I've been using fluid film for several years now, and it has been working great for me. Since I buy it by the gallon and apply it with a spray gun, the cost per ounce drops even further, making it the best option for annual maintenance. Considering that you're probably going to want to a reapply it annually if you live in an area where they salt regularly, it ends up being the best option in my opinion.
I do the same. Buy the gallons and use the spray gun on the underside of our cars. Usually in November sometime. .But I’ve noticed by March, the fluid film is starting to get washed off the undercarriage back by the rear wheels . Maybe cause we get more rain than snow in winter recently. So this year I’m gonna spray again back there in February sometime. Really works great Cheers!
Here in Canada, rust proofing products are rediculously expensive, so I started mixing my own. Using a drill powered paint mixer, mix one 400 g cartridge of Valvoline grease with 1.8 to 2 quarts of chainsaw bar and chain oil. For inner panels, a little thiner exterior surfaces a little thicker. I spray with a pneumatic undercoating sprayer.
Neat idea...how long have you been using the mixture, does it stay on well in high splash areas, does it creep a little bit? Not too much cheaper just below you in salty northern NY. I've used Ontario based CF3000 in doors, rockers, panels, cavities, trunks and like it's ability to creep.
Flexseal reminds me of the old Ziebart, which would fully coat the undercarriage, but would retain water and salt which would find a way under it. When you scraped the Ziebart off, chunks of rusted metal would come with it.
Ziebart killed my 1995 ford undercarriage frame. 2015 my ford still ran good except the frame was totally rusted out. Had to actually salvage the truck. The entire frame you could poke a hole through it with a screw driver.
Same it’s been a great product for me, I noticed when I apply it which it can be applied in cold weather as long as the product is room temp works great, as I said on another comment that I’ve been using on a southern truck I purchased rust free and have been for over 5 years with great results. I currently live in upstate ny where the winters are brutal
I live in Upstate NY. Been undercoating my car with Woolwax (same as fluidfuilm, Sheep Wool Oil) for the last few years. Great results. Barely any Rust. I'm using the Black Woolwax. A Bit heavier in Viscosity than the regular. Also easier to see where you coated. I use a cheap compressor and 50$ Woolwax sprayer gun. Goodluck all !!!
Just bought my 2nd and 3rd case of woolwax. Gonna use up my two cases of RP-342 on my '18 Camry and then overcoat with woolwax. How has woolwax done for you on any rust spots? Does it seem to keep them from progressing?
@@richcombs4805 Yes Rich for sure it has stopped them progressing. I own a 1999 Acura 3.2TL. I got it 3 years ago from a Lovely old lady of 93 who was my neighbor and sadly passed away. She had garaged it every day. This was in Boston MA. Then i moved to Rochester NY for work. It had a few very small rust spots underneath originally. Usually bolts or brackets or such off probably inferior metal. but i can honestly say they have not progressed at all since. My dad owned an old Dodger Ram truck previously. I done a lot of por 15 painting on it. I had mixed results after a lot of work A lot off scraping and difficulty painting. The beauty of the Woolwax or Fluidfilm as everyone says is that it moves. When the por 15 paint chips or flakes off from underneath you will have very rusty areas. But the Woolwax will just drip over that exposed area when the car chassis warms up again. And recoat that exposed area and keep it from Rusting. It definitely works. And it don't get much Saltier than an Upstate NY winter. This liquid salt is the main culprit now. Anyways sorry for the late reply and Goodluck Rich !!!! \
@@owenconnolly3041 hey thank you!!! I'm from the Lake George area and now.....I'm closer to you in Rome NY. I can attest the east side of the state of New York is easier on cars! LOL. Thank you so much. I just finished using spray cans on my '18 Camry (after a fun process of removing 7 plastic panels underneath that held about 10lbs of salty rocky dirt)...I've used about 15 cans which might seem like a lot, but I've left no area untreated. Not fun, but worth it now I'm sure. Take care stay warm!
Been using fluid film for about 5 years on my Jeep and Tacoma frame and underbody and it backs existing rust off and prevents new rust. Put it on in the fall and power-wash it off in the summer. My 2011 Tacoma still looks brand new underneath.
I'm very happy that your experiment has reflected my own experience with Fluid Film. An added benefit is that Fluid Film is food safe and certified for use in agriculture and food production: a fact once important to me in the past. These days, Fluid Film will always have a spot in my cabinet but I have found another product that is half the cost and 95% of the effectiveness. Rust Check is my go to for vehicle coating. I apply a few cans to my vehicles costing me $20 per season. Edit: Rust Check is also lanolin based, like FF, but is not food safe. It creates a soft waxy barrier like FF.
@@2pacorwhat I will pressure wash my truck before applying by a day or two so everything is dry and clean. I only do it before winter. I get the rockers, rear wheel wells, front wheel wells, frame, floor pans and behind the bumpers. I use 6 cans at least. Apply it heavy. So far my truck has escaped rust form the harsh salty MI winters.
I had a car like that too. Only part that rusted was the rearmost trunk wheelwells where the oil didn't get too. It ran great! But leaked like a sieve !
@@blk77sunshn It was a 1964 Buick Special. It was a neat car, but at the time, living where they salt the roads, it was a swiss cheese car in the rear, too. I love cars and am fortunate to live where they use sand and I'm never in the snow. Have an 05 Mustang with zero rust and it's gonna stay that way!
For how each of them are designed to work, fluid film is unmatched. It self heals when something chips it off. Once a year application. It’s honestly the only undercoating I know that truly works long term.
the best undercoating i ever had was when i drove through a road construction area and the entire underside of the vehicle was coated in a layer of concrete. Mechanic really loved having to chip the concrete off to get to bolts lol.
Now give a good cleaning of all these panels in 6 months to see how good they really are, did the rust get behind any of the coatings after sitting for a long time?
The best thing to do is... wash off the undercarriage after each day, park in a dry climate controlled garage, and dry the vehicle or piece of equipment of concern then leave it parked until the environment has had a chance to clear up and dry out a bit... but who has that much time and resources anymore? Not me, so what I’m going to do from now on is drive the biggest piece of crap car or truck I can find, until the roof flies off from rust, then replace it with the next piece of crap vehicle, only putting in enough money to keep it running good. And I will spend my money on the legalized extortions of registration and a solid insurance policy to cover my family and I in case of an accident fro one of these newer generation motorists who don’t know how to come to a complete stop at a controlled intersection,,p or the proper use of signals, lights or horns, and don not know how to safely back out of a driveway because their new car has a camera for them to watch instead of looking over their shoulders. So in a nut shell, all the products. In the world will never be able to protect that shiny piece of a liability you drive on a daily bases, and it will never become an asset until it increases in value. So unless you are fortunate enough to have a vehicle that has increased in value as some do and will, ( but not many of today’s vehicles) all of these claims and products are only prolonging the final outcome at best if any of them do anything close to their claims! PF, sorry for the rant, but let’s face it you are correct in the fact that many of the products are “snake oil” cures, and you are also correct that educating the public is the best way to help them save a buck But the best way for someone to really save money on a car is to maintain it and drive it the best they can, as if it will be the only one they will ever own! This doesn’t mean follow every infomercial on tv or the internet, but read and follow that book in the glove box at least once! You know the “owner’s manual!” Watch Jay Leno’s Garage, the episode for the 1917 Cadillac, and pay attention to when he reads the closing statements of the owner’s manual, it is factual and funny at the same time!
I've got 2 coats (over 3 years) of Fluid Film under my Ram that is a 2015 and it's holding up great so far....I live in the Northeast btw, lots of salt on our roads
In my work as a small engine tech, I swear by Fluid Film! I seen snowblowers sprayed yearly with it that had absolutely no rust or corrosion after 20 years! It’s the best period! Great also for inside your car doors at bottom where all the rust happens!
Yeah, the FF oozies into the "pinch welds" where the water/salt/brine mix from the Winter "road maintenance" would remain forever to rot out the doors!
Man, I've been here since the beginning and I've loved watching your channel grow. Seriously, you're the future of product testing. Please always stay objective, honest, and to the point. Keep up the great work.
@SC EM always support anti-trust, right to repair, free market competition, and freedom of speech. Do that, and it should mitigate the future you describe.
@@gibsonbuilds4841 if you want anything protected for centuries at a time, cosmoline is your product.. I swear 30 million years from now, some aliens will find a crate of surplus Russian sks's, and they will be in perfect condition
Excellent video! I personally am a huge fan of fluid film. I have over 20 years experience with this stuff in the automotive repair field, and have never been let down by it. Notably it also is fantastic when applied to clean car battery terminals. I've done this for many customers over the years and not a single comeback. The connections simply stay corrosion free, thus extending the life of the battery. Also great for door and hood hinges and latches. Once again, a great review video on a great product!
I like how you reply to almost every comment, even three years later. You are the GOAT for that. Used engine oil alone doesn't do the trick for inhibiting corrosion; it washes off too easy. I've been using a blend for years consisting of mainly used engine oil, paraffin wax, and calcium-based grease. I heat and blend it in a rice cooker and spray it on hot. In the right proportions, it has a dropping point of 30C, which makes it flow and creep in the summer and gel in the winter. It's successfully protected both of our vehicles, needing only touch-ups every season.
Project Farm they are very impressive. Paraffin waxes are typically very resistant to acids and salts. In the U.K. we have a great product called Waxoyl which leaves a thin, greasy, self healing film. it looks a lot like corrosion-X and the WD40 product.
@@WineScrounger Theres an even better product from Bilt Hamber called Dynax, its out performed Waxoyl by a good margin in every test its had www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/dynax-s50
@@johnmventers398 Waxoyl is usually pretty good, but it's a really old product that's been surpassed by more modern formulas. My choice today is Dinitrol, they have different viscosities for cavity use and for underbody coverage, I just love the stuff.
As somebody who volunteers on an Iowa-class battleship, and deals with literal tons of Cosmoline applied as preservative, I can tell you that yes, it works an absolute treat in inhibiting corrosion - there is really no better product. But if you ever... and I mean EVER have to remove it once it's dried, you will first have to travel through all seven circles of hell, while getting beaten with sticks. It's a literal nightmare. The only things that even turn it into a gelatinous state are chemicals the EPA banned decades ago. Just... be damned well sure that whatever you're applying that CRC to will never, ever, EVER need to have it taken off again.
If the Battleship you work on is the Missouri, then I'm partly to blame for your woes. During her Decommissioning, we had actual 55gal drums up on deck that we hand pumped down through the fuel and oil inlet pipes. The prevailing hope was that she MIGHT be brought back someday.....and so the Cosmolene went everywhere and anywhere we could get it. Grand old girls, those Battleships are. Thank you for taking care of them in my stead.
Your channel has grown so rapidly I can’t even keep track. I’ve been here since your first sea foam vids. Thank you for the videos you post you’ll be at 1million subs very soon
When I was still in the Navy we would coat are aircraft in Fluid Film everyday after a fresh water rinse while on deployment to protect them. We would use a lot of it on the magnesium gear boxes and steel screws and put a light coat on the aluminum skin. Trying to keep aircraft from corroding with salt spray everywhere is a pain and Fluid Film was a life saver. Glad to see it do well in your tests.
Just what I'm looking for that I didn't remember to look for. I want something to use on the underside of my mower decks for the winter to help stop the rust and keep in check. Thanks! Your testing is logical and easy to see the results.
Fluid film is my favorite. We use it on electrical connectors a lot. It lasts forever just not out directly in the elements. I’ve never seen most of the other high end brands you showed. Once again nice straight forward comparison. Thanks.
@@kikupub71 I hate its smell. Having to clean it off everything in the Marines made me hate it, yet I live the smell of CLP ( which was the only thing officially allowed to clean firearms)
I have worked at 2 rigging shops over the last 30 years. Fluid Film (there is more than one version of this brand) has been a great product for on-site wire rope lubrication, especially in marine environments. It is a bit messy, and I am not too fond of the odor, which takes a lot of soap and scrubbing to clean off skin, but there certainly are customers that are satisfied with the results out in the field (or out at sea). Thanks for the comparisons. Keep up the great work!
This has quickly become one of my favorite channels on TH-cam. I doubt this will be seen, but here’s a video idea. Growing up, my dad swore by a mix he would use in every oil change, that is, full synthetic oil, engine restore and dura lube. We had older cars with worn engines, he said this mixture would keep them running better for longer. It seems like a lot of additives to me, but maybe it is a good trio for old engines. Just food for thought.
Hi! Great test, but i think you could acheive better results by using fluid film made for undercoating spray guns. The stuff on the rattling cans are thinned out to be able to flow trough the small nossle and is probably better suited for treatment inside doors and caveties where it will get minimal wear.
When living up north, I used to put my Jeep on ramps, give it a good cleaning under, and then spray Rust-Oleum all over the place. I did this as a once a year maintenance before winter. Never had a rust problem 😎👍
Nice ... I just bought a brand new truck here in Chicago and winter is 45 days away. Could I paint Por15 on the bottom of it? My question is will it stick to brand new metal?
@@tonykari5124 Yes. Just remove paint and loose rust, clean any oil and dirt, give it 2 coats. Option to paint over it but not necessary. I just used it on my rims on bare metal and rust and painted over with Rustoleum. It's only been a few weeks but looks good so far.
Thanks for finally doing a fluid film video. Yes it does have to be reapplied once in awhile depending on area of exposure. The one thing I didn't say on my last comment a year ago is that it also repels water. It does an excellent job of keeping your locks from icing up. Yes I'm from Canada lol. Great job on your videos I'll keep on watching.
There was a company in my town that was mixing cosmoline and herculiner(or something like it) to create a spary-on undercoating. It worked really well and was almost indestructible as long as the surface was properly sanded and cleaned before application. If it was sprayed on smooth paint the rush would get under it.
As usual, high marks for thorough testing. 👍🏼 So now, would a review of Rust-CONVERTING chemicals be in order? Specifically, the ones that supposedly convert rust into a “sandable primer-like” surface.
@@halrhoads6194 Im sure there is a lot of time that goes into these videos before we see them. And having multiple people suggest the same thing should be a good thing! I try to look at things from a more positive outlook, I love his videos.
Hal Rhoads I had to ask for over a year to get him to do a wood glue review. And by the time he did it, the information was no longer relevant to me because I graduated high school and was no longer in woodshop.
Some bar and chain oils have corrosion inhibitors, many do not. I believe Tractor Supply oil does. I mix it with paraffin, Marval Mystery Oil for a nice smell (haha) and some ATF so that it starts solidifying at around 50 deg. F. In the winter it stays on but can apply easy in warmer weather. Solidification can be adjusted according to paraffin amount. ✌️
@Jasper.. The point is that when some dirt gets mixed in with the mixture, it basically creates a fairly stable moisture barrier. So even if it doesn't have any anti-corrosion additives, if you can keep moisture off of the car/frame, you can avoid all the rust damage. In some parts of the country cars are basically falling apart in 5 years. You have to wonder why they don't coat the under part of cars at the factory make certain parts from stainless steel instead of regular steel.
tarstarkusz Ive seen testing using oil coatings, the problem was that the dirt and dust collection also collected moisture with the potential of allowing corrosion to start. Anticorrosion additives do nothing but enhance the protection and a harder base from the paraffin helps keep the protection on longer. I live in Maine where roads salts are heavily used. Just about anything is better than nothing. Stainless steel components would be nice, they went that way with exhaust systems and what a difference. My 2005 Ram has original exhaust so it definitely makes a difference. The exhaust is doing better than the body. The frame is still in great shape because it was protected, body not so good. Lol There are some good home grown mixtures out there. The plus with them is cost is usually much cheaper than the good commercial type. ATF has a lot of anticorrosion additives and very thin to wick it’s way into the small crevices. Anything to keep the moisture and oxygen out like you said.
I have used fluid film for years, and love it, keeps my jeeps alive much longer, PS do not use the rubber shit, it will destroy your car in a few years!
Would love to see you test the rust prevention capabilities of Boiled Linseed Oil, Bar and Chain Oil, ATF, Paraffin Wax, and all of the popular home mixes using such things!
Protecting one's hearing is very important. Your viewers I'm sure would love a showdown comparing 3M, Harbor Freight and more to help protect one's ears. I'd recommend in ear and over the ear muffs and plugs, as well as electronic. Keep up the great work!
I’m definitely a fluid film fan!! A good friend put me on to it some years ago. Like anything , I usually undercoat twice a year. Awesome video!! Keep em going. Cheers!!
@@ylastchance - From my research, experience and Fluid Film guidelines, apply every Fall, on everything, and DO NOT WASH YOUR UNDERCARRIAGE until Spring. From my experience, just water does little to no significant damage to vehicles given current rust proofing coatings. All the damage is in applied street chemicals.
@@PayNoTaxes0GetNoVote Do you think it would be good to gently rinse salt off the car once every few weeks in the winter? It seems like the undercoat should be fine as long as you don't pressure-wash.
@@ProjectFarm Another idea - put Flex Seal *over* one of the other high-rated undercoatings (e.g. CRC) to see if two is better than one, the idea being that Flex Seal will encapsulate the initial undercoating to make it more effective overall.
cat handler rubber type coatings do very well if you put something like Rust Mort under them. A catalyst triggered by moisture covers the biggest weakness 9f any of these rubber undercoating sprays.
cat handler I’d like to try Flex Seal on top of cured Penetrol. I conducted a very crude test this winter in MN and Penetrol uncoated kept a rusty rocker panel from getting worse. Flex Seal seems to hold up well!
@@mwj5150 Penetrol sucks for rust prevention. I use it as an architectural coating for steel and it always rust if exposed to moisture. We won't use it on anything that goes outdoors.
I used Fluid Film on a 22 year old snowblower before last season. I can attest after it sat in a hot shed all summer and finally pulling it out last week the fluid film looks like I applied it yesterday. Its lubricative properties are still holding up the on the chute and universal connection. Good stuff!
With what good results i've seen from fluid film, I can only imagine how well the CRC would perform full scale. The pressure washer test was great to see, as fluid film's weakness has always seemed to be where water would be splashing at speed during a rainstorm. I do have to wonder if any of the finalists perform better or worse around heat. Such as what might be present near brake assemblies, around the muffler, and near the engine. With CRC beign for marine use, i could definitely see it hold up better to water, but perhaps fall short around heat sources. Another test you might consider is taking the three larger panels that did the best and screw them to a fence post or something, just to see long term artificial wear. Though it probably will line up to the pressure washer test. Either way, looks like it will come down to price per ounce for a lot of people, particularly those with larger vehicles where you're going to need a case of spray bottles or a bulk container. I know you can get fluid film by the gallon. As it sits right now though, it looks like ill be buying some CRC
One big factor in Fluid Films favor is that it’s non-toxic. That’s gets to be a big consideration if you’re using the stuff by the gallon where it could run off into water sources or if you’re using it on garden equipment. I’m not sure of the toxicity of the other products.
@@dmrr7739 well, i suppose you could go either way with it. On one hand products like the CRC are extremely unlikely to come off after application whereas the organic options like fluid film are going to slowly wash away over time and need to be applied multiple times in comparatively much larger volumes. fluid film is a great product and the biodegradability factor is just another perk to it.
Useless for me but I'll watch enthralled regardless. Video Idea: silicone sealants/adhesives. Ability to resist water, mold growth, adhesion and tensile/shear strength. I install glass showers and I'd love to know if I'm using the best product. Fixing anodized and powdercoated Aluminium to tiles and grout would be awesome. I can send supplies!
Thanks for the testing here. I know rubberized undercoating gets a bad rap from some but its second-place finish is not a surprise to me. Like most products, prep is key and I’ve found it to work great provided it's done correctly with good adhesion. I have a 1966 Ford F250 in which rubberized undercoating was used when it was new. It has after many years become brittle in places and needed re-treatment from time-to-time but the steel on this truck is still in great condition 55 years later even after living on the East Coast for many years. The external, side mounted steel gas tank (also undercoated) is still solid. The only areas that have eventually developed rust issues were non-undercoated areas such as the inside of Floor Pan Reinforcement Ends. The problem I’ve notice with other videos is people use examples of poorly applied product that were not checked/maintained for extended periods of time and then blame the product rather than the ”professional” who did it or owner who never checks/maintains it. These tests help establish what is what and under what time-frames and conditions these products perform.
@@vitaminb4869 I hope so because Project Farm is one of the top TH-cam channels that are actually doing their best for the betterment of the human experience, imo. Must be ai or just a true knob gobbler.
From Massachusetts here. I have a rust free 2006 4Runner with 288k miles. I buy Fluid Film and WD40 buy the gallon. Use a 50/50 mixture. PowerWash underneath with a $5.00 garden chemical sprayer take 15 mins on a creeper and apply in the late fall and again in the spring. It’s that simple.
I read an article a long time ago in a boating magazine where they ran a similar test. Sure enough, CRC came out on top. We apply it every year before winter and our 95 civic is still in ridiculously good shape.
@@haywoodjablome440 seems like that is the ideal solution - something that stays "wet" like fluid film or CRC but has a top layer that is cured so it won't wash away in a car wash
For me a safety razor is much better than any cartridge razor. I think one advantage is you can really customize a safety razor shave to match your skin and beard. Just the difference between the blades themselves is suprising.
This is an old one and I don’t recall if you’ve done a round 2 yet, my two suggestions are Fluid Film Chassis Black and Cosmoline. RP-342 is the military grade stuff. I recently bought some New-old-stock parts for a 1934 Dodge. They were coated in Cosmoline and still looked like new! Incredible for parts that might have been on the shelf for 90 years. The chassis black behaves much like regular Fluid Film but I think it might have some rubber mixed in as it covers like Flex Seal.
Thanks to everyone who requested this one and please let me know which products you'd like tested in round 2. Thanks again, Todd
Products Tested In This Video (in no particular order):
Fluid Film: amzn.to/3gkefuK
CRC HD Corrosion Inhibitor: amzn.to/3jfWsqD
Corrosion Block: amzn.to/3giZpEW
WD40 Specialist Long Term Corrosion Inhibitor: amzn.to/3laxHh1
Corrosion X: amzn.to/327Vdm4
Flex Seal: amzn.to/2FH2RMJ
Would love to see Undercoating in a Can for round 2.
Cosmoline RP342
New Hampshire Oil and Undercoat (NHOU) is pretty big go to up in New England
Woolwax plz.
Keep up the excellent work on your channel. Congratulations on the success of the channel. You deserve it for the very large amount of effort, work, and money spent to make your channel awsome as it is. THANK YOU FOR EVERYTHING YOU DO. 👏👏👏👏👏
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐10/10 every time. 👏👏👏👏👏.
What I’m most impressed by is how long he’s been able to keep track of his pen.
lol. Great point!
You try not to misplace a fisher space pen
@@picax8398 Exactly! I've had mine for about five years and not lost it yet.
Very fancy and expensive pen. It's one of those things that are too nice to lose. You keep it in a special case when not in use.
A good ink stick is hard to hold onto!
It’s incredible the amount of work he puts into his videos, so detailed and informative and of course honest as he has no sponsors. Hope the video gets millions of views 💪🏼
Thank you very much!
I couldn't say it any better. Absolutely love this chanel. Video every day please 😆😆😆
No sponsers is why his results are credible
I agree another great video as usual. Keep em coming
Neverthelast his modesty compared to other "famous" tubers he didnt let popularity corrupt his character really a guy I'd have as a pal. Best guy on the web
Oh, I knew this would be a good one even before I watched it. Watching now...
Thank you and hope you enjoy the video!
@@ProjectFarm I did indeed. So if I were to buy a truck for general small-farm use and some occasional off-road fun...am I correct in thinking that CRC is the ticket?
I just realised it is a new video. I just did a marathon. Love this guy.
@@ItsIdaho Yup...what's great is that the info is actually usable. No clickbait, no long drawn out nonsense ending up with more talking than results. As a guy who spends a lot fo time in the garage/shop and makes TH-cam videos as well, this is one of my very favorite channels. Never lets me down.
@@ProjectFarm I'd like to see which spray can bed liner is the best. I'm about to do a couple of projects and I'd love to get your input on it.
Keep up the great work! 👍🏻
I was literally thinking to myself if there is a better option than Fluid Film, and I stumbled upon this video. I drive a truck and live on a dirt road, so I genuinely appreciate the lengths you go to for testing.
Thanks!
Cosmoline is not better than ff over paint. It dry and do not move. Cosmo is excellent over rust.
@@ProjectFarm check out USA Fluid.
It's multi use but fantastic rust inhibitor. They use it on the Bonneville Salt Flats & other places
Wool Wax is similar to Fluid film but even thicker fyi
@Kent Altobelli I actually purchased that this year in the white and black for my truck. Do you have any experience with this product?
We never intended for someone to actually test our product by spray-washing... Damn that Todd!
lol. I really believe in putting product to the test. Thank you!
CRC out there performing in ways that the competition is claiming but failing.
I never go through a car wash with undercarriage spray...oh wait. ALWAYS!
@@ProjectFarm do a video testing out the best paint stripper for both car paint and on wood
Once cosmoline has 'set', it takes a solvent to get it off. My dad had to deal with that in WWII and he complained about it for decades afterward.
As professional mechanic I recomend fluid film we use it once a 1yr on customer cars and its works great also lubricates great as well
Great recommendation!
I live up in Northwest Pennsylvania. I swear by fluid film I spray it all over everything.
@@twiz8789 as well as here in jersey use it for couple years already great product for sure
Just don't breathe it when you apply it; use a very good respirator. One night, before I first used Fluid Film on a car, I dreamed that I murdered Gomer Pyle and others with it (which I felt bad about.) I then went to spray it on my Suburban and it got in my lungs so much that my brain felt like it was misfiring, I got depressed and it was just a bad idea to breathe it.
My car is 21 years old now and i have it coated professionally every year with Fluid Film, i am amazed how good it is at keeping rust at bay. Especially with all the salt on the road during the winter. Its not really a good penetrating oil though so i just buy a few extra cans and spray the underside extra thick then drive on some dusty roads to make a sticky mess under the car that will repel anything :) . By far the best application for it is in the car frame/inside the chassis to keep water out so the rust wont eat it inside out.
Honestly, the students in my school that participate in our yearly science fair could learn TONS from how you design and perform your tests!
I tell my mom this all the time, shes an 8th grade Science teacher. The way he considers extraneous variables and strives to keep it as controlled as possible is truly an art form haha. Todd is the homie you never knew you needed.
Thank you very much!
Time for some fun homework watch 5 project farm videos
@@ironicchannelname6457 GREAT way to spend some quality time!
I here it now... Mom I was doing my homework and I blew up the lawnmower, or Sorry Mrs. J, I did my math homework before my science homework, and while testing fuels, the lawnmower ate my math homework!
7 years of Fluid Film on my Honda (applied yearly) It has done very well in the Ohio rust belt, and when I look at the underside of similar aged cars, the difference is obvious. It is also very easy to apply, and keeps fasteners and bolts from rusting up on the undercarriage. I highly recommend it. Great video!
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
I'm in Pittsburgh, and sprayed my Subaru 7 years ago (and then touch up with cans once a year) and when you wipe your finger under the car, the film comes away and is beautifully clean underneath
Fluid Film is the best I have found for Iowa winter. I also use it to lube door hinges and latches on vehicles and use it on random pivot points on tractors, etc.
@Scooty Puff jr. I've tried the PB Surface Shield and it stays in place and is more water resistant
@@dobledekersoulwrekr ok thanks, I'll check it out
When I was still in the Navy we would coat are aircraft in Fluid Film everyday after a fresh water rinse while on deployment to protect them. We would use a lot of it on the magnesium gear boxes and steel screws and put a light coat on the aluminum skin. Trying to keep aircraft from corroding with salt spray everywhere is a pain and Fluid Film was a life saver. Glad to see it do well in your tests.
how was there salt spray on aircraft? just curiouse
@@lucidleaf7701 Navy...
Great product!
I’ve been using fluid film for 5 years on a truck I bought down south and I live in upstate ny our winters are brutal on vehicles and my truck is still rust free after 5 years of round year driving.
@@lucidleaf7701 Things tend to get sea water spray on them when you're on a ship in the middle of the ocean.
My favorite part about your videos is that you talk fast and get right to the point. Love it. Awesome job man
I appreciate that!
@@ProjectFarm y
Most videos I watch are full of fillers, this is full of quality content. One of my favorite channels
This guy is a master
CRC is crazy, I bought it after reading tons of reviews and this just confirms it. I spray it on the electrical terminals and battery terminals on our boat and it keeps them flawless.
Thank you for the feedback!
Bob,
Thanks for the tip, that sounds great.
Bob Wilson years ago,on one company, we use many CRC PRODUCTS, one was contact cleaner, we used on CONTACTORS, & STARTERS,. Cheers From NJ🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Ah, good idea.
Yes CRC makes some very good products, I use them at the plant where I work too.
I use fluid film on my Jeep, Crown Vic ( every October ) and my mower decks ( everyMarch ). It seems to be good at preventing grass buildup on the mowers as well! Love to see how the other products work as well if I decide to change it up or try to look for something better.
Thank you Project Farm!
You are welcome! Thanks for the suggestion.
Great tip on the mower! Adding that to my winterizing process.
Mower deck, great idea friend
How does CRC compare to Surface Shield by PB Blaster?
Man, this cardboard box will never rust!
lol. Nice!
@@ProjectFarm warning his videos maybe addictive.
Fabian Konrath but when he goes to burn it, it will burn for 30 days
We got a nos mid 60s mechanical oil pressure gauge sealed in a cosmoline covered box.
Opened er up and it looked like new.
apply cardboard to underside for maximum protection...
I love me some Fluid Film. There’s a reason it’s been used for so long.
Thank you for the feedback!
The advantage of fluid film is that it is very penetrating. It creeps into the pinch welds at the edges of doors, fenders, and any places where seam sealer has failed. This is an important property. For any accessible surfaces, a coat of POR 15 paint followed by tar based brush on undercoating can give 15 years of rust free protection in salt. The ultimate, but it's a pile of work. l
@@maplebonesthat's true, migration is a really important part of corrosion protection in many settings.
Yet crc looks much better, particularly at resisting being washed
@@maplebones I've found tar will crack with time....that's just as bad or worse than having nothing. Salt gets in the cracks and never gets washed away. I buy Fluid Film by the gallon and spray twice a year. Easy Peasy.
When I live in Cleveland, OH rust was always a concern. I fixed the problem by moving to Phoenix, AZ. ;-)
@Ryben Flynn N Olmsted to Florida 10 yrs ago. Still use Fluid Film down here. LMAO
lol. That'll solve it!
NitePHX 👍😆Current Clevelander here, planning on moving to Nevada one day. I have to admit not dealing with road salt anymore plays a part in my decision.
Stow Ohio to South Texas 40 years ago...no more rusty vehicles. Just sun baked!
So now your problem is that your belongings melt, instead of rust!
I use the fluid film to coat my table saw to keep the moisture from rusting the table. It does an absolute fantastic job of preventing surface rust. My shop is not heated allowing condensation to overtake all of my cast iron tables. When I need to use my tools, I wipe the film off with a cloth and it wipes off very good not causing any film on my wood projects...thanks for the tests!
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
You know I learned something from working alongside commercial steam pipe welders. It turns out that insulating steel and cast iron with a blanket or wood box, or fiberglass insulation, completely stops 100% of rust, by stopping 100% of the condensation. If you put a flat sheet of particle board over the entire top of your tablesaw, it won't rust AT ALL, even with 95% humidity. I stopped putting oil or fluid film on my cast iron table saw top, and started just keeping it covered with 2 slabs of particle board. My hydrometer said my shop had 95% humidity in the middle of winter, with absolutely no heat. I'm mad that nobody ever explained this to me, an air tight wooden tool box or blanket will prevent rust, by preventing warm air hitting the cold steel tools. I haven't oiled my table saw in 3 years now, and it still has no trace of rust. Oil + insulation = zero possibility of rust.
So does paste wax from my experience.
I am working in a R&D center. I can confirm that your experiments are really controlled and equally performed. Also your comments on the results are really conclusive and on point. Love your work!
Thank you very much for the positive comments!
@@ProjectFarm you've gotta be an engineer....gotta be. Feel like I'm listening to a co-worker! Great job being thorough and consistent.
I can't believe I was just thinking about this yesterday..damn project farm reading minds now lol...keep up the good work
Great timing!
Evidently,,,,, great minds think alike!
Irregular Tangent lolol
@@randallrougeau530 bro you already know..@project farm...he doesn't get enough credit for his testing one of the best channel so to speak for me
my man's out here killin ol wives tales one at a time ⌚
Thank you for the feedback!
Was hoping Scharpfs would have been one of the choices to see how well it holds up. Thanks for you hard work!
@@barkerbarkerbarker why would you coat your leaf springs anyway? I've never seen a leaf spring rust through before the rest of the vehicle.
@@iamzid mettle on metal
@@31terikennedy no room between the leafs for corrosion to occur... then to allow your waste oil to sink in between the individual lengths, you need to rotate the leaf spring sideways... do you dunk ya vehicle into salt water??? Even then like the gentleman said... the vehicle would rust around the springs as spring steel has more Zinc Nickel Magnesium for its composition.
When ever I need a product and I don’t know witch one is the best . He’s the first thing I look up to see his test and reviews . What a great honest channel!
Thanks!
Many moons ago, I undercoated my F-350 with a combination of used motor oil with some diesel mixed in. The thought was, the diesel would allow the mixture to “crawl” into tight spaces and protect them. 3 weeks later we had a torrential downpour while I was on my way to the hardware store. I parked as far away from everyone (avoiding door dings). When I was walking back to the truck, I noticed a HUGE rainbow slick across the parking lot, which was emanating from my truck. It looked like the Exxon Valdez oil spill. I quickly vamoosed from the area, before anyone called the EPA.... never again!
lol. Nice!
My grandfather had a awesome undercoating ..hes passed on now but we are still trying to remember exactly what it was.. i think it Was along the lines of roof tar ..gas maybe some oil and thinner shoot it out of a old gun and then while its still wet go for a ride down a dirt road ... My dad still has that undercoating on his old shaggin wagon van ... And to be honest it Hasn't been re undercoated in over 20 years and its still good and black under there .. Amazing stuff man .
I suggest you use Fluid Film instead. Heat it up to 160 if you need to.
@@brandonroberge7473 as a ex rustproofer...tar and kero sounds about right
mustie 1 uses oil and chainsaw bar oil ...he swears by it
Fluid Film ALL THE WAY! i been using it for yeares and love it, it helps keep the underside of my truck rust free.
Thank you very much!
I just had my car fluid filmed for the first time this year. Do you ever run it through a car wash with undercarriage wash? Or does that mess with it in your experience?
export fees to Canada are insane, from Amazon.:{
I read all of your comments in the same voice and cadence you speak, love your work and great idea!! Very useful for us Canadian folk!
lol. Nice!
Thanks a lot Gilbert Pankhurst.... I can never read these comments normally again
I definitely chose fluid film because of cost and ease of application. I’m testing it as an undercoating for lawnmower Decks! I appreciate your scientific approach to testing these products. I learned a lot from PF. Blessings y’all!
Thanks so much! Glad to hear!
If you want to coat a truck frame use the SEM ROCKIT Bedliner kits U won't be sorry. Then you can throw that Fluid shit back in the barn let the critters play with...
@@thekingsilverado8419 Bed liner is junk and traps salt/sand/water underneath it against the metal. I live in ohio and I see it all the time.
@@thekingsilverado8419 Do not under any circumstance ever ever apply bed liner to the underside of a vehicle. The frame will still look brand new after 3-5 years but you can poke a screwdriver right through it. It's outright dangerous to use bed liner or rubberized coating on the underside of a vehicle. It's meant to protect truck beds from dents and scratches and keep them looking nice. Nothing about it being meant to stop corrosion. It only stops incidental corrosion by making sure the stuff you slide around in the bed doesn't wear away the paint. If you want a nice looking vehicle that will crumple up into a ball of rust and your gory remains during a crash though by all means you do you.
As for the lawn mower decks, FF effectiveness is decreased by mowing WET grass. The wet grass knock off most of the FF.
I use fluid film on my plow truck. I always re apply every time I pressure was the under carriage. Old truck is 27 years old and still looks factory new.
Great product! Thank you
I've been using fluid film for several years now, and it has been working great for me. Since I buy it by the gallon and apply it with a spray gun, the cost per ounce drops even further, making it the best option for annual maintenance. Considering that you're probably going to want to a reapply it annually if you live in an area where they salt regularly, it ends up being the best option in my opinion.
I do the same. Buy the gallons and use the spray gun on the underside of our cars. Usually in November sometime. .But I’ve noticed by March, the fluid film is starting to get washed off the undercarriage back by the rear wheels . Maybe cause we get more rain than snow in winter recently. So this year I’m gonna spray again back there in February sometime.
Really works great
Cheers!
MobiuSphere ,,,, where can this be purchased by the gallon for a better deal?? Thank you!
Most auto parts stores, or Amazon, Walmart. If you search "Fluid Film gallon" you'll get a bunch of options.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004NDADI4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=andrewcamarat-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B004NDADI4&linkId=e0a8304f37e685ad45aa3b4004061e71
MobiuSphere thank you for your response!!
Special mention to the yellow tape, did a pretty good job too :P
Great point!
@@ProjectFarm I think we should use yellow tape! :)
Here in Canada, rust proofing products are rediculously expensive, so I started mixing my own. Using a drill powered paint mixer, mix one 400 g cartridge of Valvoline grease with 1.8 to 2 quarts of chainsaw bar and chain oil. For inner panels, a little thiner exterior surfaces a little thicker. I spray with a pneumatic undercoating sprayer.
Neat idea...how long have you been using the mixture, does it stay on well in high splash areas, does it creep a little bit? Not too much cheaper just below you in salty northern NY. I've used Ontario based CF3000 in doors, rockers, panels, cavities, trunks and like it's ability to creep.
Krown rust proofing isnt that much and they spray it inside the body panels too..its $139 once a year.
I just used an airless paint sprayer to apply fluid film, I don’t think I will ever use a Schutz gun again, it worked awesome
Flexseal reminds me of the old Ziebart, which would fully coat the undercarriage, but would retain water and salt which would find a way under it. When you scraped the Ziebart off, chunks of rusted metal would come with it.
Great point! Thank you
Ziebart killed my 1995 ford undercarriage frame. 2015 my ford still ran good except the frame was totally rusted out. Had to actually salvage the truck. The entire frame you could poke a hole through it with a screw driver.
You can keep track of rust from the inside, under the floor mats :) It all depends on proper application
m.th-cam.com/video/nXvl9nt57Kg/w-d-xo.html
Shows the damage from rubber undercoat.
Fluid film is an amazing product and it’s what I use ..don’t want to use rubberized stuff for the reasons you mentioned
Thank you for the feedback!
Same it’s been a great product for me, I noticed when I apply it which it can be applied in cold weather as long as the product is room temp works great, as I said on another comment that I’ve been using on a southern truck I purchased rust free and have been for over 5 years with great results. I currently live in upstate ny where the winters are brutal
Facts
And I just bought a 4 pack of CRC from Amazon to spray my Raptor. Bring it on Pittsburgh winter.
Thank you for the feedback!
I live in Upstate NY. Been undercoating my car with Woolwax (same as fluidfuilm, Sheep Wool Oil) for the last few years. Great results. Barely any Rust. I'm using the Black Woolwax. A Bit heavier in Viscosity than the regular. Also easier to see where you coated. I use a cheap compressor and 50$ Woolwax sprayer gun. Goodluck all !!!
Great feedback! Thank you
Just bought my 2nd and 3rd case of woolwax. Gonna use up my two cases of RP-342 on my '18 Camry and then overcoat with woolwax. How has woolwax done for you on any rust spots? Does it seem to keep them from progressing?
@@richcombs4805 Yes Rich for sure it has stopped them progressing. I own a 1999 Acura 3.2TL. I got it 3 years ago from a Lovely old lady of 93 who was my neighbor and sadly passed away. She had garaged it every day. This was in Boston MA. Then i moved to Rochester NY for work. It had a few very small rust spots underneath originally. Usually bolts or brackets or such off probably inferior metal. but i can honestly say they have not progressed at all since. My dad owned an old Dodger Ram truck previously. I done a lot of por 15 painting on it. I had mixed results after a lot of work A lot off scraping and difficulty painting. The beauty of the Woolwax or Fluidfilm as everyone says is that it moves. When the por 15 paint chips or flakes off from underneath you will have very rusty areas. But the Woolwax will just drip over that exposed area when the car chassis warms up again. And recoat that exposed area and keep it from Rusting. It definitely works. And it don't get much Saltier than an Upstate NY winter. This liquid salt is the main culprit now. Anyways sorry for the late reply and Goodluck Rich !!!!
\
@@owenconnolly3041 hey thank you!!! I'm from the Lake George area and now.....I'm closer to you in Rome NY. I can attest the east side of the state of New York is easier on cars! LOL. Thank you so much. I just finished using spray cans on my '18 Camry (after a fun process of removing 7 plastic panels underneath that held about 10lbs of salty rocky dirt)...I've used about 15 cans which might seem like a lot, but I've left no area untreated. Not fun, but worth it now I'm sure. Take care stay warm!
Massive contributions to society from this channel. Deserves an award or three. Thank you, good sir. 👏👏
Wow, thank you!
Been using fluid film for about 5 years on my Jeep and Tacoma frame and underbody and it backs existing rust off and prevents new rust. Put it on in the fall and power-wash it off in the summer. My 2011 Tacoma still looks brand new underneath.
Thanks for sharing.
I'm very happy that your experiment has reflected my own experience with Fluid Film. An added benefit is that Fluid Film is food safe and certified for use in agriculture and food production: a fact once important to me in the past.
These days, Fluid Film will always have a spot in my cabinet but I have found another product that is half the cost and 95% of the effectiveness. Rust Check is my go to for vehicle coating. I apply a few cans to my vehicles costing me $20 per season.
Edit: Rust Check is also lanolin based, like FF, but is not food safe. It creates a soft waxy barrier like FF.
Great information on Rust Check. Thank you
@@ProjectFarm try Krown T40 suposed to be better then rust check
I've been using Fluid film on my truck for 6 winters now. It's done a great job at preventing rust. I apply it once a year in the fall.
Thanks for sharing.
How long does it take to apply?
@@wolfeadventures depends on how many cans you buy. 30 minutes maybe.
Do you remove the previous layer before reapplying or do you just reapply?
@@2pacorwhat I will pressure wash my truck before applying by a day or two so everything is dry and clean. I only do it before winter. I get the rockers, rear wheel wells, front wheel wells, frame, floor pans and behind the bumpers. I use 6 cans at least. Apply it heavy. So far my truck has escaped rust form the harsh salty MI winters.
I once owned a car that leaked so much oil under the bodywork, there wasn't a chance for it to wash away in the rain. No rust at all.
Thank you for the feedback
I think I sold you that car...🙄
@@ProjectFarm thanks but CRC is worth the money Flex Seal is good but hard to take off , Corrison X and Fluid Phil is decent
I had a car like that too. Only part that rusted was the rearmost trunk wheelwells where the oil didn't get too. It ran great! But leaked like a sieve !
@@blk77sunshn It was a 1964 Buick Special. It was a neat car, but at the time, living where they salt the roads, it was a swiss cheese car in the rear, too. I love cars and am fortunate to live where they use sand and I'm never in the snow. Have an 05 Mustang with zero rust and it's gonna stay that way!
I use fluid film on everything....love it!
It's a great product for blocking the rust!
Me too, and the most amazing is on the snow blower, snow dont held on Fluid Film.👍
It's a lot cheaper if you buy it in a 5 gallon pail. It will, however, grow mold on the top. Just skim that off.
I watched a total of 0:06 seconds and paused to say this is a well-needed video. thank you!
Thank you very much!
For how each of them are designed to work, fluid film is unmatched. It self heals when something chips it off. Once a year application. It’s honestly the only undercoating I know that truly works long term.
Thanks for the feedback.
Truth
My experience to after 12 years of experimenting. Cosmolne is stronger but chip off at top of paint if paint chip off.
I LOVE how FF stays WET for years! Amazing! I apply it where ever there is a "pinch weld", prime areas for rusting!
I've been using fluid film for years best bang for your hard earned dollar
Fluid Film is a great product!
Same here!
the best undercoating i ever had was when i drove through a road construction area and the entire underside of the vehicle was coated in a layer of concrete. Mechanic really loved having to chip the concrete off to get to bolts lol.
Thank you!
I prefer just running over an oil spill. Free undercoating and it helps cleanup the neighborhood disaster. Win&Win.
Now give a good cleaning of all these panels in 6 months to see how good they really are, did the rust get behind any of the coatings after sitting for a long time?
Great point!
Yeah I saw one video where one of these products actually made the problem worse due to moisture buildup behind the coating.
The best thing to do is... wash off the undercarriage after each day, park in a dry climate controlled garage, and dry the vehicle or piece of equipment of concern then leave it parked until the environment has had a chance to clear up and dry out a bit... but who has that much time and resources anymore? Not me, so what I’m going to do from now on is drive the biggest piece of crap car or truck I can find, until the roof flies off from rust, then replace it with the next piece of crap vehicle, only putting in enough money to keep it running good. And I will spend my money on the legalized extortions of registration and a solid insurance policy to cover my family and I in case of an accident fro one of these newer generation motorists who don’t know how to come to a complete stop at a controlled intersection,,p or the proper use of signals, lights or horns, and don not know how to safely back out of a driveway because their new car has a camera for them to watch instead of looking over their shoulders. So in a nut shell, all the products. In the world will never be able to protect that shiny piece of a liability you drive on a daily bases, and it will never become an asset until it increases in value. So unless you are fortunate enough to have a vehicle that has increased in value as some do and will, ( but not many of today’s vehicles) all of these claims and products are only prolonging the final outcome at best if any of them do anything close to their claims!
PF, sorry for the rant, but let’s face it you are correct in the fact that many of the products are “snake oil” cures, and you are also correct that educating the public is the best way to help them save a buck But the best way for someone to really save money on a car is to maintain it and drive it the best they can, as if it will be the only one they will ever own! This doesn’t mean follow every infomercial on tv or the internet, but read and follow that book in the glove box at least once! You know the “owner’s manual!”
Watch Jay Leno’s Garage, the episode for the 1917 Cadillac, and pay attention to when he reads the closing statements of the owner’s manual, it is factual and funny at the same time!
I've got 2 coats (over 3 years) of Fluid Film under my Ram that is a 2015 and it's holding up great so far....I live in the Northeast btw, lots of salt on our roads
@@PussyBonpensiero time to recoat, doesn't last forever, you've been lucky
In my work as a small engine tech, I swear by Fluid Film! I seen snowblowers sprayed yearly with it that had absolutely no rust or corrosion after 20 years! It’s the best period! Great also for inside your car doors at bottom where all the rust happens!
Thanks for the feedback.
Yeah, the FF oozies into the "pinch welds" where the water/salt/brine mix from the Winter "road maintenance" would remain forever to rot out the doors!
Good job in mentioning that flex seal will cause rot over time, seen it happen before. 👍
Thank you!
Man, I've been here since the beginning and I've loved watching your channel grow. Seriously, you're the future of product testing. Please always stay objective, honest, and to the point. Keep up the great work.
Thank you very much!
@SC EM always support anti-trust, right to repair, free market competition, and freedom of speech. Do that, and it should mitigate the future you describe.
There is a good reason they've used cosmoline for years.
Great product!
Someone on eBay still has a version of it for sale. I've been tempted lol
@@gibsonbuilds4841 if you want anything protected for centuries at a time, cosmoline is your product..
I swear 30 million years from now, some aliens will find a crate of surplus Russian sks's, and they will be in perfect condition
I hate the stuff, you ever try cleaning it off crated rifles? Jeezlus its nasty... works though
amer ican easy to clean a rifle with about five cans of brake clean. Did that with my crated Yugoslavian
Excellent video! I personally am a huge fan of fluid film. I have over 20 years experience with this stuff in the automotive repair field, and have never been let down by it. Notably it also is fantastic when applied to clean car battery terminals. I've done this for many customers over the years and not a single comeback. The connections simply stay corrosion free, thus extending the life of the battery. Also great for door and hood hinges and latches.
Once again, a great review video on a great product!
Thank you!
Great tip on door hinges. I’ve used grease in the past, but going to start using fluid film.
Agree, 100%!!
This confirms that my use of Fluid Film for the last several years was the correct choice! Thanks for the hard work!
Great product! Thank you
Fluid Film, you say?
[South Main Auto has entered the chat]
Sheep sound intensifies 😬
lol. Yes, it's a terrific product!
I can smell the brake clean 😀
DustyChevy And I can hear the ugga duggas (torquing to factory specs) 🤣
@d0rraj I dont think you get lol on the SMA channel he uses sheep sound for the fluid film
I like how you reply to almost every comment, even three years later. You are the GOAT for that.
Used engine oil alone doesn't do the trick for inhibiting corrosion; it washes off too easy. I've been using a blend for years consisting of mainly used engine oil, paraffin wax, and calcium-based grease. I heat and blend it in a rice cooker and spray it on hot. In the right proportions, it has a dropping point of 30C, which makes it flow and creep in the summer and gel in the winter. It's successfully protected both of our vehicles, needing only touch-ups every season.
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
Fluid film all the way!!! Its saving my ranger.
Great product!
You're not a "Lone"! Use in on Silver,,,, but don't "horse" around thinking about it!
@@kenhurley4441 I see what you did there lone ranger ! My main stallion is DSG but the Cobra IS Satin Silver ! Ford power baby.
Mixtures of acid and hydrogen peroxide are called “piranha solutions” with good reason.
lol. Great point! It's amazing just how well some of these product block the piranha solution
Project Farm they are very impressive. Paraffin waxes are typically very resistant to acids and salts. In the U.K. we have a great product called Waxoyl which leaves a thin, greasy, self healing film. it looks a lot like corrosion-X and the WD40 product.
@@WineScrounger Theres an even better product from Bilt Hamber called Dynax, its out performed Waxoyl by a good margin in every test its had www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/dynax-s50
@@WineScrounger I've had real issues with waxoil. It's coming off my landy in sheets. I seem to be having better luck with dintrol.
@@johnmventers398 Waxoyl is usually pretty good, but it's a really old product that's been surpassed by more modern formulas. My choice today is Dinitrol, they have different viscosities for cavity use and for underbody coverage, I just love the stuff.
If you'd like another testing idea:
Ratchet/towing straps and their ratchets.
Thank you for the video idea!
I second that request- there are so many types out there, which ones stand the test of time (weather) and which ones are strongest?
I third this request ☝🏼
@@ProjectFarm how about doing video on storage containers home depot has one for 10 dollars seem to be pretty tough and last
As somebody who volunteers on an Iowa-class battleship, and deals with literal tons of Cosmoline applied as preservative, I can tell you that yes, it works an absolute treat in inhibiting corrosion - there is really no better product.
But if you ever... and I mean EVER have to remove it once it's dried, you will first have to travel through all seven circles of hell, while getting beaten with sticks. It's a literal nightmare. The only things that even turn it into a gelatinous state are chemicals the EPA banned decades ago.
Just... be damned well sure that whatever you're applying that CRC to will never, ever, EVER need to have it taken off again.
Thanks for the feedback.
If the Battleship you work on is the Missouri, then I'm partly to blame for your woes. During her Decommissioning, we had actual 55gal drums up on deck that we hand pumped down through the fuel and oil inlet pipes. The prevailing hope was that she MIGHT be brought back someday.....and so the Cosmolene went everywhere and anywhere we could get it.
Grand old girls, those Battleships are. Thank you for taking care of them in my stead.
@@BattleshipSailorBB63🇺🇸✝️
@@BattleshipSailorBB63what's up shipmate?
@@hiorder Yo! You were on the Missouri?
Really thoroughly tested as usual.
David, thank you very much!
Boston: Fluid Film covers the underside of my 2010 Ford Crown Vic & there is zero rust. I believe Jeeps rust faster than any vehicle out there.
Thank you for the feedback!
Speaking as a 2000 TJ owner, you are 1000% right
As a owner of a 2002 Jeep Liberty Sport, I can completely agree on that.
old Mazda's are pretty bad
Your channel has grown so rapidly I can’t even keep track. I’ve been here since your first sea foam vids. Thank you for the videos you post you’ll be at 1million subs very soon
Thank you!
People know a winner when they see one. WAY TO GO PROJECT FARM, keep it up, keep it real!
When I was still in the Navy we would coat are aircraft in Fluid Film everyday after a fresh water rinse while on deployment to protect them. We would use a lot of it on the magnesium gear boxes and steel screws and put a light coat on the aluminum skin. Trying to keep aircraft from corroding with salt spray everywhere is a pain and Fluid Film was a life saver. Glad to see it do well in your tests.
Just what I'm looking for that I didn't remember to look for. I want something to use on the underside of my mower decks for the winter to help stop the rust and keep in check. Thanks! Your testing is logical and easy to see the results.
Thanks!
Fluid film is my favorite. We use it on electrical connectors a lot. It lasts forever just not out directly in the elements. I’ve never seen most of the other high end brands you showed.
Once again nice straight forward comparison. Thanks.
You are welcome!
Another great review. I guessed CRC because of cosmoline. Militaries all over the world have used cosmoline on EVERYTHING metal for years.
Thanks!
Very true. I have a 1938 Turkish Mauser in8mm it took me 5 years to finally clear all the cosmoline from the firing pin and bolt action and mag.
@@kikupub71 I hate its smell. Having to clean it off everything in the Marines made me hate it, yet I live the smell of CLP ( which was the only thing officially allowed to clean firearms)
The attention to detail in these videos is incredible. Really first rate content.
Much appreciated!
I have worked at 2 rigging shops over the last 30 years. Fluid Film (there is more than one version of this brand) has been a great product for on-site wire rope lubrication, especially in marine environments. It is a bit messy, and I am not too fond of the odor, which takes a lot of soap and scrubbing to clean off skin, but there certainly are customers that are satisfied with the results out in the field (or out at sea). Thanks for the comparisons. Keep up the great work!
Thanks, will do! Thanks for sharing.
This has quickly become one of my favorite channels on TH-cam. I doubt this will be seen, but here’s a video idea. Growing up, my dad swore by a mix he would use in every oil change, that is, full synthetic oil, engine restore and dura lube. We had older cars with worn engines, he said this mixture would keep them running better for longer.
It seems like a lot of additives to me, but maybe it is a good trio for old engines. Just food for thought.
Thank you very much! Great test idea on synthetic, restore and dura lube.
Hi! Great test, but i think you could acheive better results by using fluid film made for undercoating spray guns. The stuff on the rattling cans are thinned out to be able to flow trough the small nossle and is probably better suited for treatment inside doors and caveties where it will get minimal wear.
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
My biggest question is does CRC smell like proper cosmoline? I mean like “Soviet rifle sitting in a barrel of cosmoline for 70 years” cosmoline smell.
Guy, you are amazing... romping on back dirt roads, taking your RV beast across the fields, and anything to test all products!
Thanks!
When living up north, I used to put my Jeep on ramps, give it a good cleaning under, and then spray Rust-Oleum all over the place.
I did this as a once a year maintenance before winter.
Never had a rust problem 😎👍
Nice ... I just bought a brand new truck here in Chicago and winter is 45 days away. Could I paint Por15 on the bottom of it? My question is will it stick to brand new metal?
@@tonykari5124 Yes. Just remove paint and loose rust, clean any oil and dirt, give it 2 coats. Option to paint over it but not necessary. I just used it on my rims on bare metal and rust and painted over with Rustoleum. It's only been a few weeks but looks good so far.
Definitely my favorite TH-camr. I know what to buy after watching your videos. Thank you for everything. :)
Thank you very much for the positive feedback! It's keeps me motivated to keep testing products!!
Thanks for finally doing a fluid film video. Yes it does have to be reapplied once in awhile depending on area of exposure. The one thing I didn't say on my last comment a year ago is that it also repels water. It does an excellent job of keeping your locks from icing up. Yes I'm from Canada lol. Great job on your videos I'll keep on watching.
There was a company in my town that was mixing cosmoline and herculiner(or something like it) to create a spary-on undercoating. It worked really well and was almost indestructible as long as the surface was properly sanded and cleaned before application. If it was sprayed on smooth paint the rush would get under it.
Thanks for sharing.
As usual, high marks for thorough testing. 👍🏼
So now, would a review of Rust-CONVERTING chemicals be in order? Specifically, the ones that supposedly convert rust into a “sandable primer-like” surface.
I been asking for this for months. I wouldn't hold my breath.
@@halrhoads6194 Im sure there is a lot of time that goes into these videos before we see them. And having multiple people suggest the same thing should be a good thing! I try to look at things from a more positive outlook, I love his videos.
I nominate Ospho.
@@pigpill That's a given. Testing...editing, etc. But I'm talking about the actual video we see. Seemed rushed this time.
Hal Rhoads I had to ask for over a year to get him to do a wood glue review. And by the time he did it, the information was no longer relevant to me because I graduated high school and was no longer in woodshop.
Bar and chain oil mixed with oil (or fluid film) and sprayed on the undercarriage works great. Mustie1 uses this method and it works well.
Great tip!
Some bar and chain oils have corrosion inhibitors, many do not. I believe Tractor Supply oil does. I mix it with paraffin, Marval Mystery Oil for a nice smell (haha) and some ATF so that it starts solidifying at around 50 deg. F. In the winter it stays on but can apply easy in warmer weather. Solidification can be adjusted according to paraffin amount. ✌️
@Jasper.. The point is that when some dirt gets mixed in with the mixture, it basically creates a fairly stable moisture barrier. So even if it doesn't have any anti-corrosion additives, if you can keep moisture off of the car/frame, you can avoid all the rust damage.
In some parts of the country cars are basically falling apart in 5 years. You have to wonder why they don't coat the under part of cars at the factory make certain parts from stainless steel instead of regular steel.
tarstarkusz Ive seen testing using oil coatings, the problem was that the dirt and dust collection also collected moisture with the potential of allowing corrosion to start. Anticorrosion additives do nothing but enhance the protection and a harder base from the paraffin helps keep the protection on longer. I live in Maine where roads salts are heavily used. Just about anything is better than nothing. Stainless steel components would be nice, they went that way with exhaust systems and what a difference. My 2005 Ram has original exhaust so it definitely makes a difference. The exhaust is doing better than the body. The frame is still in great shape because it was protected, body not so good. Lol There are some good home grown mixtures out there. The plus with them is cost is usually much cheaper than the good commercial type. ATF has a lot of anticorrosion additives and very thin to wick it’s way into the small crevices. Anything to keep the moisture and oxygen out like you said.
Whenever he says "we're going to test that", I always get the feeling somebody's in trouble. Probably my 12 years of parochial School showing.
lol Thanks for watching.
I like that part
Same here
What I like about some of these products is they help hold moisture against the car so it can rust faster.
Yep. Rubberized undercoatings are a huge no-no.
I have used fluid film for years, and love it, keeps my jeeps alive much longer, PS do not use the rubber shit, it will destroy your car in a few years!
Fluid Film is a great product!
I guess its because its rubber?
@@Akyomi777 because once rust get behind it it like huge absorber and rot from inside out
Me: I need to buy something
My Brain: watch Project Farm to know what to buy
Thanks for watching!
Absolutely the first thing I do is check here to see if there is a review on that tool or product
Would love to see you test the rust prevention capabilities of Boiled Linseed Oil, Bar and Chain Oil, ATF, Paraffin Wax, and all of the popular home mixes using such things!
absolutely this!
Great test idea! Thank you
Project Farm have seen people here in the northeast used melted toilet ring wax.
Yes, I would also like to see low cost homebrew rust prevention recipes!
@@ProjectFarm I'd love if you include the NATO Corrosion inhibitor, 90% Beeswax and 10% Vaseline melted together
Protecting one's hearing is very important. Your viewers I'm sure would love a showdown comparing 3M, Harbor Freight and more to help protect one's ears. I'd recommend in ear and over the ear muffs and plugs, as well as electronic. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for the suggestion. Thanks, will do!
I’m definitely a fluid film fan!! A good friend put me on to it some years ago. Like anything , I usually undercoat twice a year. Awesome video!! Keep em going. Cheers!!
Thanks so much. Thanks, will do.
Twice?
@@ylastchance yes I undercoat in the spring and early in the fall, I try to make my stuff last as long as it can. Lol
@@ylastchance - From my research, experience and Fluid Film guidelines, apply every Fall, on everything, and DO NOT WASH YOUR UNDERCARRIAGE until Spring. From my experience, just water does little to no significant damage to vehicles given current rust proofing coatings. All the damage is in applied street chemicals.
@@PayNoTaxes0GetNoVote Do you think it would be good to gently rinse salt off the car once every few weeks in the winter? It seems like the undercoat should be fine as long as you don't pressure-wash.
We can see tons of hardwork in making of this video thank you for your efforts
Thanks a lot!
Hey, you should peel back the flex seal so we can see how it looks underneath : ]
Great point!
@@ProjectFarm Another idea - put Flex Seal *over* one of the other high-rated undercoatings (e.g. CRC) to see if two is better than one, the idea being that Flex Seal will encapsulate the initial undercoating to make it more effective overall.
cat handler rubber type coatings do very well if you put something like Rust Mort under them. A catalyst triggered by moisture covers the biggest weakness 9f any of these rubber undercoating sprays.
cat handler I’d like to try Flex Seal on top of cured Penetrol. I conducted a very crude test this winter in MN and Penetrol uncoated kept a rusty rocker panel from getting worse. Flex Seal seems to hold up well!
@@mwj5150 Penetrol sucks for rust prevention. I use it as an architectural coating for steel and it always rust if exposed to moisture. We won't use it on anything that goes outdoors.
I used Fluid Film on a 22 year old snowblower before last season. I can attest after it sat in a hot shed all summer and finally pulling it out last week the fluid film looks like I applied it yesterday. Its lubricative properties are still holding up the on the chute and universal connection. Good stuff!
Thanks for the feedback.
With what good results i've seen from fluid film, I can only imagine how well the CRC would perform full scale. The pressure washer test was great to see, as fluid film's weakness has always seemed to be where water would be splashing at speed during a rainstorm. I do have to wonder if any of the finalists perform better or worse around heat. Such as what might be present near brake assemblies, around the muffler, and near the engine. With CRC beign for marine use, i could definitely see it hold up better to water, but perhaps fall short around heat sources.
Another test you might consider is taking the three larger panels that did the best and screw them to a fence post or something, just to see long term artificial wear. Though it probably will line up to the pressure washer test.
Either way, looks like it will come down to price per ounce for a lot of people, particularly those with larger vehicles where you're going to need a case of spray bottles or a bulk container. I know you can get fluid film by the gallon. As it sits right now though, it looks like ill be buying some CRC
Thanks for the video idea.
Cosmoline do not creep. Stay at top of paint and fall together with paint if it fall of. Cosmoline over rust, yes it is the best.
One big factor in Fluid Films favor is that it’s non-toxic. That’s gets to be a big consideration if you’re using the stuff by the gallon where it could run off into water sources or if you’re using it on garden equipment. I’m not sure of the toxicity of the other products.
@@dmrr7739 well, i suppose you could go either way with it. On one hand products like the CRC are extremely unlikely to come off after application whereas the organic options like fluid film are going to slowly wash away over time and need to be applied multiple times in comparatively much larger volumes.
fluid film is a great product and the biodegradability factor is just another perk to it.
I've been waiting for this video, I got my car fluid filmed with my fingers crossed, glad you make these videos.
Pete Leigh, check out South Main Auto on TH-cam. Fluid Film is 👍.
Fluid Film is a great product!
Useless for me but I'll watch enthralled regardless. Video Idea: silicone sealants/adhesives. Ability to resist water, mold growth, adhesion and tensile/shear strength. I install glass showers and I'd love to know if I'm using the best product. Fixing anodized and powdercoated Aluminium to tiles and grout would be awesome. I can send supplies!
Thank you and hope you enjoy the video anyway!
He is fun to watch and you always learn something.
@@ProjectFarm i loved it as usual :D left an idea in that comment too
Just recaulked my showers. Lol
I can’t say enough how great of a job you do on these videos. So much time and effort goes into this and it really shows.
Thank you very much!
Thanks for the testing here. I know rubberized undercoating gets a bad rap from some but its second-place finish is not a surprise to me. Like most products, prep is key and I’ve found it to work great provided it's done correctly with good adhesion. I have a 1966 Ford F250 in which rubberized undercoating was used when it was new. It has after many years become brittle in places and needed re-treatment from time-to-time but the steel on this truck is still in great condition 55 years later even after living on the East Coast for many years. The external, side mounted steel gas tank (also undercoated) is still solid. The only areas that have eventually developed rust issues were non-undercoated areas such as the inside of Floor Pan Reinforcement Ends. The problem I’ve notice with other videos is people use examples of poorly applied product that were not checked/maintained for extended periods of time and then blame the product rather than the ”professional” who did it or owner who never checks/maintains it. These tests help establish what is what and under what time-frames and conditions these products perform.
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
Applied Science recently did an interesting video on the chemistry of how these corrosion inhibitors work.
Thank you for the feedback!
@@ProjectFarm I get the effort of trying to reply to every comment but this is just nonsense. You gotta at least read the comments Todd
@William Grant Just being a knob is even more descriptive. 😏
It must be an automated bot posting these nonsense replies
@@vitaminb4869 I hope so because Project Farm is one of the top TH-cam channels that are actually doing their best for the betterment of the human experience, imo. Must be ai or just a true knob gobbler.
Top notch testing and reviewing as always!! Wish you would do a similar test for Anti-UV coating for plastic lens on cars headlights!!!
Thank you for the video idea!
From Massachusetts here. I have a rust free 2006 4Runner with 288k miles.
I buy Fluid Film and WD40 buy the gallon. Use a 50/50 mixture. PowerWash underneath with a $5.00 garden chemical sprayer take 15 mins on a creeper and apply in the late fall and again in the spring. It’s that simple.
Thanks for sharing.
I read an article a long time ago in a boating magazine where they ran a similar test. Sure enough, CRC came out on top. We apply it every year before winter and our 95 civic is still in ridiculously good shape.
This is great information! It's always great when the test results are consistent with other studies / tests!
Define everywhere. Paint? Rubber? Plastic?
@@ProjectFarm www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/paints/corrosion-protection-coating-test
and I was just in the market for undercoating my raptor! thanks for the in-depth video !! keep up the nice work
Nice vehicle!
I would say flex seal would be a disaster long term. Are you keeping the test panels outside to see long term? Thanks for all the testing.
Great point! Thank you
I wonder what a layer of CRC covered with a top coat of Flex Seal would perform under the same conditions. Would Flex even adhere to the CRC?
I second this after seeing what rubberized undercoat does to cars in the salt belt.
@@haywoodjablome440 seems like that is the ideal solution - something that stays "wet" like fluid film or CRC but has a top layer that is cured so it won't wash away in a car wash
I also have heard very bad things about rubber coatings and salty roads. Rubber holds the salt in.
As a rally driver and someone who goes on back roads a lot, I ADORE this channel.
Take good care of your equipment and it will take good care of you!
Thanks! Good Point!
TIME TO RUN A MOTOR ON FLUID FILM LOL
lol. Thank you for the video idea!
I'll bet it does well.
Love that stuff you can spray it on your boots to coat them like mink oil as well, trust me I tried it lol
@@ProjectFarm youre awsome
As a lubricant or a fuel?
These vids really help me pick the best stuff for my Tacoma's maintenance. Thanks for the great video!
Thank you
Being in the military, I shave every day. I’m curious to see what the best face razor is.
Thank you for the video idea!
@@ProjectFarm Could you compare straight edge razor and safety edge razor vs disposable razors?
Any products with blade material made from the stuff you'd normally see in lathe tools and drill bits, I'd recommend you go with them.
-B
@@ProjectFarm Keep in mind razors from Dollar Shave Club and some store brands such as Walgreens are rebranded DORCO blades :D
For me a safety razor is much better than any cartridge razor. I think one advantage is you can really customize a safety razor shave to match your skin and beard. Just the difference between the blades themselves is suprising.
This is an old one and I don’t recall if you’ve done a round 2 yet, my two suggestions are Fluid Film Chassis Black and Cosmoline. RP-342 is the military grade stuff. I recently bought some New-old-stock parts for a 1934 Dodge. They were coated in Cosmoline and still looked like new! Incredible for parts that might have been on the shelf for 90 years. The chassis black behaves much like regular Fluid Film but I think it might have some rubber mixed in as it covers like Flex Seal.
Thanks for the suggestion.
@@ProjectFarm To add to those I'd be curious to see what Rustoleum's line of rust inhibitors/protectants would do.