I am getting my Himalayan at some point this month (waiting on shipment). All of these tips are really useful. First time motorcycle rider so I have a lot to learn.
If you are a regular DIYer and have a nice box of drill bits its as handy to grab them as they are ready made measuring sticks often in 1/2mm increments. If you are old like me you avoid actually using a tape measure as much as possible. The other thing I learned on an old Honda I had was when you think you are done take the bike off the stand and try it on full lock either way as well as straight ahead. Its interesting if you suddenly find you get clutch slip on corners one way and not the other because of the way the cable moves with the bars. Once you know which is the tight place for your own bike then you just check it in that position from then on.
Great advice Sean always best to use something that's the right size for the gap eh.. much easier than messing around with tape measures or rulers. Again on the steering I wish I'd mentioned that for sure can be a problem if the cable is a tad short or pinched by a cable wrap even. Great advice as always thanks again mate 👍
Just want to tell you this video saved my butt/arse!! 900mi into a 1000 mi trip I thought something was seriously wrong and I was losing power. Thought maybe it was the clutch and found this video. I’m a complete newbie at motos and 5 mins later I was back in action!!! Thank you!!
Picked up my Himalayan last week. I am absolutely loving it. I have put the oil and brake cyl guards on and the givi engine guards. as phase I. I would love to have the opportunity to cruise around Scotland, ( have a Nordo/Scotch heritage myself) , it looks like the perfect touring local. Thanks so much for your content, and please keep up the good work.
That’s a top tip ….. measuring ‘something’ ideally at 3mm to fit into the the clutch cable ‘gap’. I’ve a vernier gauge to make that a bit easier. Thanks for that. I did check mine recently but with a metal ruler. Next time I’ll find something that is 3mm and use that going forward. Thanks for taking the time to post this up. Now laser chain adjustment/ alignment …. I did mine without using the marks then with a laser and it was well out using the marks …. The laser was a bit expensive but makes for very precise chain adjustment !
I hadn't heard of laser alignment for motorcycles, but I am only just getting back into it my bike is still on a boat somewhere between India and the UK. I googled and found a Sealey laser alignment gauge, but that is expensive. It was simple in the old days. Small bikes had the same tyres front and rear so you could use a plank, and even bigger bikes had symmetrical swing arms so if the gap at the front of the rim to the inside of the swing arm was the same each side it was straight in the swing arm. We just hoped the swing arm was all ok centred in the frame and the front forks were straight. At 17 you were riding it anyway. Now at 62 I get my reading glasses on and start getting shims of wood or metal to ensure two things are the same gap and I am not trying to go anywhere near as fast either.
Cheers Martin another good tip , i remember all my old bikes way back had adjustment at the handlebar lever aswell as down by the the itself , never understood the requirement for that , just seemed to make adjustment more complicated to me.
That's it mate some bikes still have that type of system. The new re meteor has adjustment at both ends of the cable. Looks like an absolute pain tin the tits to be honest.
Thanks so much for sharing. I need some help. My Himalayan won’t start when I pull the clutch in. It will only start when I put it in neutral and without pulling the clutch. What’s happening here? Any advice would be much appreciated. Thank you.
I have 4mm freeplay but if i use those 4mm i see the clutch mechanism moving on the engine. Is this normal? I feel freeplay in the handle but at the same time the mechanism on the engine is moving
I just recently got my bike and I noticed a weird behavior. When stopped, but engine running, the gear shifting is very hard. Finding neutral is also very hard. Curiously this doesn't happen when the engine is cold or just started. Seems like when things heat up a bit the issue arises. Could this be an issue with the clutch cable freeplay? The gap does seem to be about 3mm
It could be. If the bike is brand new it will be running break in oil which makes your gear shifts a bit clunky. It might also be the oil level? It's a wet clutch so the oil sits around the clutch when cold but runs through the system when the engine is running. If it's low on oil or old oil it can cause problems with the gear shift. I keep the bike topped up with a fully synthetic oil keeps the gear shifts smooth more of a satisfying snick than a hard clunk.
@@WeeJaunt yeah I just checked and the gap was at 6 or 7mm... way off specs. I haven't had a chance to test the results on a ride but with the bike stationary it seemed way smoother now at 3mm.
![TEEDEE TADA - DIAMOND NARAKORN X LEGO LYKN [Special Dance Performance]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QgtZedFeumA/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you so much for such video. I never read about that before. Congrat's from Brazil!
I am getting my Himalayan at some point this month (waiting on shipment). All of these tips are really useful. First time motorcycle rider so I have a lot to learn.
That's brilliant Andrew.. Im sure you will love the bike. Its a great place to start mate 👍 thanks again.
If you are a regular DIYer and have a nice box of drill bits its as handy to grab them as they are ready made measuring sticks often in 1/2mm increments. If you are old like me you avoid actually using a tape measure as much as possible. The other thing I learned on an old Honda I had was when you think you are done take the bike off the stand and try it on full lock either way as well as straight ahead. Its interesting if you suddenly find you get clutch slip on corners one way and not the other because of the way the cable moves with the bars. Once you know which is the tight place for your own bike then you just check it in that position from then on.
Great advice Sean always best to use something that's the right size for the gap eh.. much easier than messing around with tape measures or rulers. Again on the steering I wish I'd mentioned that for sure can be a problem if the cable is a tad short or pinched by a cable wrap even. Great advice as always thanks again mate 👍
Use a 3mm drill bit…. Great advice thanks for your wisdom. Every day I learn something
Just want to tell you this video saved my butt/arse!! 900mi into a 1000 mi trip I thought something was seriously wrong and I was losing power. Thought maybe it was the clutch and found this video. I’m a complete newbie at motos and 5 mins later I was back in action!!! Thank you!!
Hi Kris thanks for the feedback mate. I'm glad you found the video useful 👍 hopefully you don't get any more issues with it mate 👍
Picked up my Himalayan last week. I am absolutely loving it. I have put the oil and brake cyl guards on and the givi engine guards. as phase I. I would love to have the opportunity to cruise around Scotland, ( have a Nordo/Scotch heritage myself) , it looks like the perfect touring local. Thanks so much for your content, and please keep up the good work.
That's brilliant I'm glad you like the bike. So good to work mate I love mine. You should come to Scotland if you get the chance👍
That’s a top tip ….. measuring ‘something’ ideally at 3mm to fit into the the clutch cable ‘gap’. I’ve a vernier gauge to make that a bit easier. Thanks for that. I did check mine recently but with a metal ruler. Next time I’ll find something that is 3mm and use that going forward. Thanks for taking the time to post this up. Now laser chain adjustment/ alignment …. I did mine without using the marks then with a laser and it was well out using the marks …. The laser was a bit expensive but makes for very precise chain adjustment !
Aye Nev always easier to find something the right size. Much less messing around especially if you are doing it on your own. Thanks again mate 👍
I hadn't heard of laser alignment for motorcycles, but I am only just getting back into it my bike is still on a boat somewhere between India and the UK. I googled and found a Sealey laser alignment gauge, but that is expensive. It was simple in the old days. Small bikes had the same tyres front and rear so you could use a plank, and even bigger bikes had symmetrical swing arms so if the gap at the front of the rim to the inside of the swing arm was the same each side it was straight in the swing arm. We just hoped the swing arm was all ok centred in the frame and the front forks were straight. At 17 you were riding it anyway. Now at 62 I get my reading glasses on and start getting shims of wood or metal to ensure two things are the same gap and I am not trying to go anywhere near as fast either.
Practical solution to what appears to be a bit of a problem. Thanks for the info.
Aye Mark the simplest solutions are usually the right ones. Thanks again mate 👍
Good sound practical advice as always, keep posting!
Thanks John appreciated mate 👍
Great video, very simple and informative
Cheers Martin another good tip , i remember all my old bikes way back had adjustment at the handlebar lever aswell as
down by the the itself , never understood the requirement for that , just seemed to make adjustment more complicated to me.
That's it mate some bikes still have that type of system. The new re meteor has adjustment at both ends of the cable. Looks like an absolute pain tin the tits to be honest.
@@WeeJaunt Yep from memory it was with my old bikes , happy days :)
Thanks so much for sharing. I need some help. My Himalayan won’t start when I pull the clutch in. It will only start when I put it in neutral and without pulling the clutch. What’s happening here? Any advice would be much appreciated. Thank you.
I have 4mm freeplay but if i use those 4mm i see the clutch mechanism moving on the engine. Is this normal? I feel freeplay in the handle but at the same time the mechanism on the engine is moving
Interesting, thanks 😎
Thanks again mate 👍
Is it the case a few people have fitted bar risers therefore stretching cable causing clutch burnouts...
Yes mate. Alot of people fit risers without installing a longer cable. You can get a longer cable for that very reason 👍
@@WeeJaunt Itchy boots had that after fitting risers on her first one.
@@mikehurley5052 Aye Mike can cause problems right enough 👍
I just recently got my bike and I noticed a weird behavior. When stopped, but engine running, the gear shifting is very hard. Finding neutral is also very hard. Curiously this doesn't happen when the engine is cold or just started. Seems like when things heat up a bit the issue arises. Could this be an issue with the clutch cable freeplay? The gap does seem to be about 3mm
It could be. If the bike is brand new it will be running break in oil which makes your gear shifts a bit clunky. It might also be the oil level? It's a wet clutch so the oil sits around the clutch when cold but runs through the system when the engine is running. If it's low on oil or old oil it can cause problems with the gear shift. I keep the bike topped up with a fully synthetic oil keeps the gear shifts smooth more of a satisfying snick than a hard clunk.
@@WeeJaunt yeah I just checked and the gap was at 6 or 7mm... way off specs. I haven't had a chance to test the results on a ride but with the bike stationary it seemed way smoother now at 3mm.
@@u0000-u2x that will probably solve it mate. I hope so 🤞 these things are usually really simple. Good luck with it
Hello sir....