Adjusting Your Motorcycle Clutch and Why It’s Important | The Shop Manual
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 มิ.ย. 2024
- Adjusting Your Motorcycle Clutch and Why It’s Important | The Shop Manual
Read more on Common Tread: rvz.la/35jWclG
Out of whack clutch-cable slack doesn’t just feel weird, it can actually damage your clutch. Luckily, adjusting it is very easy to do. Ari shows you how in this episode of The Shop Manual. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Read more on Common Tread: rvz.la/2XpSLFS
Everytime I go to put my bike into gear from neutral to first it feels like its slamming into gear. I have made adjustments according to slippage occurring during shifting but it still feels rough when I first put it into gear from a stand still. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated
Can I ask what lever it is on the xt?
Thanks Ari.
Single handedly teaching us more about bike mechanics than anyone else in the world 👍🏼
1:52 someone saying they prefere metric units is music to my ears
That would be all the smart people that understand base 10 is simply moving a decimal point
Until he said “you’ve got half inch of adjustment there” on the cable adjustment.
@@greatkingrat half an inch is pretty close to just one centimeter so it was still in the spirit of the metric system eh
All the smart people that only move a decimal??? You mean instead of men who can actually do math and have pit people on the moon? Why the hell should I care how water feels? Im not water, I have a lot of water in me but I am not water and its stupid to base a system on a metric that isn't even a constant... Apparently water doesn't even like the metric system lmao! I understand that European folks don't like to use fractions because decimals make the numbers seem bigger and more impressive but as americans we should all remember the size of a mountain doesn't matter if you screw with America it will be a fraction of what it was. Moon math for the win...again...
Ari being back on youtube is not nearly getting as much likes as he should, glad to see he's doing well.
Great to see Ari continuing his individual no nonsense videos to help so many Bikers out with easy to understand instructional videos.
The Shop Manual series is consistently excellent. All the info we need without extraneous chit chat. Very professional. Thanks!
I would seriously pay good money for you to make a video on ducati desmodromic valve adjustment. The vids are so easy and simple to follow.
These videos are great. Short, to the point and well explained. Thanks
Love the Shop Manual videos, Ari!
Having owned and wrenched on a Supersport S, the owner's manual actually specifies the clutch free play using the second method you described (3-4mm)
Just saying one thing, I watch everything Ari amd Zach are in and they are the best guys from America making motorcycle content. May they always deliver content for us.
Kinda would be cool just to hang out and watch and learn from him for a day or two! Thanks Ari! You explain it in lamans terms, simple and straight to the point. Thank You!
Thank you Ari!! This is very important to get this right esp. after replacing a clutch, levers (micro switches may also need to be adjusted for aftermarket levers), and cables.
thank you so much for this video. When i bought my 2nd hand bike i always had clutch problems and had to learn these adjustments. But your details helped me understand it even more!
Great explanation as always but you missed something very important.
If you got aftermarket handlebars that are wider, narrower, etc. you often can't use the stock clutch play specs.
The most important thing to do is to turn the handlebars all the way from left to right and back and find out where the clutch play is the smallest so the clutch doesn't engage when turning the bars. Thats the position where to set the play to the minimum like 2mm. You most likely will have more play than that when the bars are straight but thats normal. Usually the wider the bars the bigger the effect of different play at different handle bar positions. Thats why on my DR650 i need a lot of slack (about 8 to 10mm when bars are straight) and on my GSXR 750 i dont really need play at all... of course still maintaining the minimum of 2mm.
So keep in mind to turn your bars all the way and check if the play is right in every position. Same with throttle play.
Hands down the best video on clutch cable adjustment!!!! Thank you!!!
Ari your the big brother I always needed.. thank you for sharing your knowledge, and these how to videos!! I’m a frequent revzilla shopper ! Thank you again !
Ari Henning is definitely the guy I would approach to everytime it's about motorcycles......he's that good at explaining things 👍🏻
This video was very helpful on helping those who never adjusted a clutch lever before. 10/10 recommendations.
I really enjoy this series and the change you’ve made to first person perspective videoing. It is way easier to see exactly what you are showing us. Also, the highlights of the item help quite a lot. Kudos!!
Thanks for this! The nickel saved me so much time and effort! I got tired of using a ruler and converting fractions . Keep the good simple videos coming
Sir, I sincerely thank you for the knowledge you share with us in every video.
Thanks Ari. Another potential idea: On my Tuono I like to check free-play down at the lever on the clutch cover. Checking for play there is, for me, much more intuitive: I get a better feel of the actuator clearance there than trying to deduce that up at the lever with potential pivot slop, cable movement etc. I still use the adjuster up at the lever but am checking down at the clutch cover.
Thanks ari, the second method works perfectly. No more clutch slip. I always use the measuring lever end method but I keep slipping my clutch, so not for me. The coins works so well and I felt happy with my ride now :)
Thanks mate. New bike owner and was concerned this was going to be hard to do. Thanks for the easy to follow video.
Great series of videos! I've been riding and spannering pretty much all my life but I'll definitely be sending any new riders I know this way! Keep up the excellent work!
he also did a similar series for Motorcyclist Magazine a while back, before coming to Revzilla. when you run out of Shop Manual to watch, you may want to check it out... it was called MC Garage.
Ari i just watched your video on how do motorcycle transmissions work and now watching this video. I remember you mentioning something about the engine oil allowing for the shifter to work as good as it should. Another thing i realized after watching this one is that my clutch lever has alot of slack and the last time i had the second set of tires installed the technicians adjusted the clutch lever and then i loosened it because i thought it was too difficult to pull in the clutch lever. Guess i gotta adjust my clutch lever and see how it goes
Great video mate, just what i was looking for. Very clear and precise instructions. Thanks from Australia.
Measuring the slack using coin is insightful. Tried it and worked like charm. Tq.
This video came up at the right time, yesterday I drove out to my friend's house and my bike was fine, this morning on the way back home I had almost no clutch. I guess it's time for some maintenance.
ı love this video editing style.
Gopro chesty and butt cuts?
@@RyanMcIntyre i mean they shows always attention points.
Same
Hey guys, Chris fix here...
I love ur mother ❤
Seriously, best tutorial on this subject I've found! Thanks!
Thank you, Thank you, Thank you Ari! Feeling more confident with changing the levers on my Rebel.
3:40 Thanks from India and Europe XD
My Stromy DL650 was too loose and I overtightened it so this video was PERFECT. I probably need to replace the cable entirely. It has at LEAST 20K on it. Great content as always and much needed! Thanks Ari!
Make sure you only buy an O.E.M. cable. Don't buy any other brand that's made in Taiwan or China etc., or you will regret it as they don't last as long.
Another method that I like to use as a double check on my DR650: put the bike on a lift, pull the clutch lever in all the way to the bar with your left hand and spin the rear wheel with your right. The wheel should spin easily with no/minimal drag with the clutch lever fully pulled in. Then while rotating the wheel and slowly releasing the clutch, you should feel the clutch "grab" at about 50% of the clutch lever travel. If this happens, as described, it means the clutch is fully disengaged when the lever is at the bar, and fully engaged when completely released.
This is what I do. I put it on a rear stand and make sure engine power is completely disconnected when I pull the lever. My preference is to have it start engaging as soon as I start letting it out, but with a little bit of space because I think it's more important that I'm not burning my clutch at every stop light.
Gratings from Bulgaria EU !
Love your videos, really good detailed information, keep up the good work!
Nevertheless I was expecting to hear you mentioning about the hydraulic actuated clutches. As I know they don't need adjustment, but I was told, by the Ducati dealer that It's adjustable, and not the lever reach, but the clutch sleeve itself.
I believe it's a nice topic for another video, to explain about the hydraulic clutches .. best regards !
My bike, along with a lot of 1970's era bikes, has both the handlebar lever adjuster & a clutch pushrod adjuster screw & locknut, on the side of the engine.
Very informative.
Watching from Nepal 🇳🇵🙏
Incredibly helpful guide. I feel smarter now. Thanks guys!
awesome video. thanks for this! my clutch level was "loose" like this, ie, having this same exact level of play. i thought it was supposed to be tight so im glad i watched this video before messing with my bike hahahaha
Very nice! Quick, to the point… and informative
Love the 1st person view! Good idea 👍😃
Thanks for the feedback.
Wow, that's a great video.
Thank you for your information on using the clutch.
I'm glad to be a friend of your great channel.
Happy New Year.
Always stay healthy.
👍👍👍🤝🤝🤝🤙👌
Good info here, that I think a lot of bikers need to take note of… I’ve come across many bikes with either no slack, or so much to the point the clutch is barely disengaging.
I love how he mentioned the Rs.5 coin as well. Shows that he cares about his demographic abroad as well. Great video.
Great tips, thanks for doing these types of videos!
"The five rupees coin"..
I almost lost it right there 😅😅..
Hello from India..
Ive had issues finding info on my kz400. You saved my evening!!
Coin trick is great, made it worth the view. Great tip.
In my 41 years as a motorcycle technician and retired and from what I haven't forgotten is 🤔 Is that most Japanese models use the measurement between the clutch lever and the clutch perch. The lever freeplay also depends on what type of clutch actuator mechanism is used. There are two types.
1) Clutch release mechanism is on either the sprocket cover or clutch cover which has a lock nut and adjusting screw that adjusts the gap between the release mechanism and the outer clutch pressure plate and can vary from 1/4 turn to 1/2 turn in or out depending on the clutch type itself. This is adjusted with as much lever freeplay as possible. Once the correct setting is set, then the lever freeplay is adjusted to specs.
2) Clutch release arm that comes out of the clutch cover, either on the top or bottom.
I believe Both the Triumph and the Yamaha XT225 has #2. I don't mean poop either! 😁
Just as a note, you don't have to pull the clutch lever in all the way to the grip when shifting as long as you time it right with the throttle. Alot of times I don't use the clutch, but only when shifting from 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th, 4th to 5th and 5th to 6th. I just blip the throttle and shift. I always use the clutch going from 1st to 2nd because the shift drum has to turn further because it's going past neutral. Back in the day when I street raced, I had an ignition kill switch mounted on the handlebar and when shifting from 1st on up to 5th I held the throttle wide open and at the same time I hit the kill button and shifted which eliminates the lag going from gear to gear using the clutch. It was pretty cool! I remember racing a kid and he said "your not going to use your kill button"? I laughed and said yes, that's why I have it. 😁
need more info on this legendary technique lol
@@ruben1788 😁
Very helpful. I just got a manual clutch bike 4 months ago and I noticed an increase in slack after 1000km.
This is a great overview, thanks!
easy to learn with this guy.💪👍
thank you.
Excellent video! Finally dialed in my clutch 👌🏼
It's good to hear that you referenced Indian 5₹ rupees Coin. Big fan of your videos. 😍
Knowledge & magic tricks my favorite combo 😂😂😂 !! Great video’s
Definitely needed this one
Thanks so much. After watching this video I’ve just cleaned and lubed the pivot. It sure was rusted!
Great and pragmatic videos as well ! Thanks dude !
Hey guys, Chris fix here...
Good joke
Absolutely great video. Super helpful
Love this series
2:38 i obviously need more training, that's awesome Master Ari!
FYI. Triumph recommends the second measurement method in their owners manuals.
Yup, plenty of manufacturers list the lever-gap spec instead of a measurement at the lever end.
Great video. Thanks Bud
the lever to grip mesure is so dodgi with so many varialbes to go wrong ,just use the second method it works every time
Two things you didn't mention that I think you should have because they are super important bits of info is turning the bars and setting the slack at the tight spot, and only setting slack when the bike is cold since slack will natural increase as the cable and things heat up.
Very very important.
He should have included that part.
Same for throttle cables of course
do you know how I can know if my cable is about to give way?? I adjusted my clutch after reaching the gas station and right after my bike stuttered when moving off. I don't think the bike was that hot since it was only a 2KM ride to the gas station but maybe I adjusted it incorrectly
@@craftwanderer8802 You adjusted when hot and probably did it too tight. Adjust when cold.
@@The3Kway I forgot to mention that I immediately stopped and tried adjusting the clutch again but I admit I didn't really know what I was doing since it was 12am and dark so I just kept twisting it clockwise and anti clockwise and testing it but it still stuttered.
I will try again in the morning in the carpark.
are there any tips you can give? I've been riding long but never really did all this clutch adjustments by myself. always had my dad help me but he is getting old now so I'm trying to be independent
I'm ashamed to admit, but I'd been adjusting my clutch slack all wrong for the last three years. Thanks again to Ari and the Revzilla team for putting together this great Shop Manual series!
Is it worse to have adjusted it wrong for three years or to have not adjusted it at all in three years??
Thanks for the walkthrough. Now I'm waiting for tips on a hydraulic clutch.
never thought i'd see an XT225 on this channel! 😍 Is this yours, Ari? Please tell me it is
It's not mine, it's actually a viewers! Had it in for some carb work. It's a rad little bike, and this one is in especially good condition.
I watched many videos on adjustment Motorcycle Clutch "Free Play", Adjusting the “free movement”. Your video has the best editing video illustration and explanation about clutch "free play". I just changed my bike 2014 Kawasaki Z1000 ABS (Ninja Z1000 ABS) with new clutch plates at 51,342km (31,902miles) on April 20th 2023 at a Motorcycle shop. The mechanic did not set or adjust a "Free Play" on my bike, therefore, when I rode my bike home, when throttle my bike to go faster, I was experiencing a “slip clutch” when I was revving my bike engine RPM to 6,000RPM to 7,000RPM. It happened on 2nd gear, 3rd gear, 4th gear, 5th gear, and the last number 6th gear (Almost every single gear). What do you need to do next? Clutch slipping happens when a clutch fails to adequately engage. Just like what you said in the video. The clutch will not fully “Press” together when you release the clutch level. And that can cause such issues such “Clutch Slip”. Thank you for your well detail explanation. I got it right into my mind. Much appreciated, "Like" and "Subscribed"
Just throwing this out there but an upgrade that since my zzr600 I will probably do on all my bikes is to replace the clutch cable with a hydraulic system, you can get an expensive all in one unit but I have found that the only unique thing about it is it includes a bleed nipple in a favourable place but if you get the cheap hydraulic unit you can buy banjo bolts with bleed nipples built into them. this is especially good if you are doing the cheap upgrade for your brakes as more than likely pair's of radial res lever assemblies are far more readily available.
The only thing to watch out for is having the actual clearance for the piston unit to mount up to the clutch casing it can require a little finesse but for around £50 i went from old barely adjustable antiquated looking levers and a really crusty inconsistent clutch lever pull to it all looking and feeling great and lever adjustment that can be done while driving.
I know these are "cheap chinese ebay parts" I'm talking about but that doesn't automatically mean bad just make sure to give all the parts a good look over and if anything looks sus just don't use it I've been running mine for about 5 years and it's showing no signs of failure.
So useful and nicely edited video
You sir made this an easy adjustment for me 👍
Great, as always. Thank you.
Great video. I have a Cheap Chinese Clone dual sport. Only 200 miles. I bought it used. I adjusted as you said and I am still having a dragging clutch. Hard to get into neutral unless it is not running. What I am experiencing is the clutch appears to disconnect with the first inch of play then as I continue to pull the break up snug with the handle I can feel the clutch slightly engaging again.
I replaced the cheap Chinese clutch springs with replace ones. They were really weak.
very very useful. Answered all my questions thanks!
That's a great looking XT!
As usual, accurate and to the point..👍
Reminds me how I would check tappet clearance for old engines using feeler gauges 👍
Also consider the following when experiencing clutch problems.
In my case I also had slipping clutch. I tried using the adjusters near the clutch lever but no result. Maximum turned in, and maximum turned out and some settings in between, but I could not get any satisfying result. 😠
Driving around in stuck 1st gear in the city is no fun, nor is having not to use my clutch lever at all to get going from a standstill at very sluggish pace.. 😓
But then it started to dawn on me….. I noticed my clutch lever did not release all the way. 🤓. So I applied WD40, wiggled the lever a bit and presto: lever released fully as soon as I let go of it. After a bit of adjustment to get the slack right: shifting was back to normal again.
Ari!! Very cool. What about changing lever on hydraulic clutches and setting the plunger length? Can you do a video explaining? Thanks!!
The nickel trick is fantastic!
Ari, Thanks for the video. Do you have to adjust the free play when you have a hydraulic clutch cable? How would this be done? Thanks
-"If you dont abuse it with wheelies."-
I think that was aimed at Zach.
Haha. There's a right way to do wheelies that puts little to no wear on the clutch (power wheelies, or a succinctly timed clutch pop with NO slip) that Zack is adept at. Then there's the abusive way you seem some people do it: Fist full of throttle and an awkward quasi-slip of the clutch. Done correctly, wheelies aren't going to impart much additional wear on the clutch. I guess I shoulda specified that.
@@AriH211
Nice. Didnt know that. I dont do wheelies and I was just being an ass with my comment. Thanks for the extra info.
@@AriH211 not ari henning saying saying power wheelies are the right way to do wheelies 🤦🏼♂️
Love❤️ from india🇮🇳. Love u Ari
5 Rupee Coin? Mah Man! You are addressing us with our metrics, that's a first for any auto youtuber....Love from India!
Thank you Ari👍🏻
Great /better updated video !🤘🇬🇧
Lol my clutch on my previous bike (africa twin crf1000) lasted me 60.000 km (with plenty of offroad riding) possibly I am extremely good when it comes to setting the tension on the cable 😂. Jokes apart, nice video as usual👍🏻
thanks bro. love from Bangladesh
Yammie Noob just thanked you for your videos. Thought it was cool that different people in the community know about each other.
Never before encountered the first measurement method.... general standard was always 3mm.... One thing I never really needed to apply any attention to is hydraulic clutch... Can't remember a general standard/method as last time was on 1000 Exup a long time ago !✌️🇬🇧
Great guide! 😀
Ari I was told thar nearly all relatively modern bikes have a silicone or plastic sleeve on the clutch cable so should be run dry. Oil will allow dust and dirt to form into a grinding paste and will actually tighten the cable actuation.
Thanks Buddy
Nice Tips
Thank you Ari! Request video for stainless steel exhaust systems vs titanium exhaust systems.
Stainless = more weight, more durable, less cost. Titanium = less weight, more delicate, higher cost.
@@AriH211 thank you.
Great one!
Thanks buddy
Good video! I will be checking my free play this evening before my ride!
What do you mean by drag race start, is that riding the clutch In between shifts?
He said ₹5 coin... Thanks Bro.. appreciate it..🤓👍🏻
Love from India