Great video i have a himalayan and did get a puncture in the back wheel, i had all the kit to replace the tube on the side of the road, but no tyre sealant it was at the end of the day, and tipping down with rain so used the recovery and had to wait nearly 3 hrs, to be taken home i put a new tube in myself changing the tyre was fairly easy, but i did struggle getting the back wheel back in but i am 70yrs old, i think that was the right choice for me, so I'll make sure i take my sealant with me from now on, take care and ride safe 👍
Twice over the years I have used the "fix a flat" foam spray to air up a tubed tire. Yes the next day it was flat again but it held up enough to get me the 20 or so miles home. Breaking a bead on a real tuff tire, a couple of times I've put the wheel/tire back on the bike with the valve core removed and rode the bike down the road at low speed and kind of weave back and forth a bit until I heard the thunk of the bead breaking. Of course I was doing that close to my house were I was going to repair. As you've pointed out some tires are a real bear to lever on, but generally I've found knobby dirt/dual sport tires pretty easy. It's the bigger tubeless that generally give you the trouble.
When I got my Innova for The Grand Challenge I bought some Kenda K262's and used it as an opportunity to learn how to fit a tyre myself. On those size wheels and tyres it wasn't half as difficult as I imagined (though I did nip an old tube on my first attempt rushing at the end!). I'm REALLY pleased I tried it the first time at home with the luxury of time and comfort. I now feel far more confident in being able to do so at the roadside or on a trail 👍
@@nathanthepostman cheers! I'm not sure I'd tackle the Himalayan with E07's though 😬 I think I'm going to get some slime to try and minimise the chances though.
I'm so happy I stayed to the end of this video to see little Arthur looking identical to you. Down to the hairstyle and crocs! Mega sweet. Hope all is well.
The curved type of tyre lever is a Michelin type, bloody good too, made by other companies as well. Don't be shy with the lube and take your time, small bites, don't be greedy or panic (she said. . . ). Good tips there, almost like you know what you are on about 👍.
IHi Nathan - I did comment here about the split tube or ‘ghetto’ tubeless conversion and have done it to my CT125. As you said it is a whole lot easier to plug a tyre than remove the wheel, tyre and tube to make repair - especially late on in a wet February Saturday in the depths of the Highlands! Norally of Itchy Boots is currently riding on the edge of the Sahara and comments that while she can drop her pressures in deep sand intervening stretches of hard rock means she is in danger of snakebiting her tubes. With the split tube scenario what remains of the tube is now clamped securely between the rim and the outside bead of the tyre and out of range of those pesky rocks! You do have to perform the simple surgery to a couple of slightly smaller tubes but that leaves the originals as spares in your tankbag if you have to revert due to a tear or similar! Here is a video of a KLR650 having the roadside surgery performed, and as we see it is both quick and simple th-cam.com/video/60bi1r2Xvbo/w-d-xo.html Cheers
Just done my new e bike tyres crikes worst ever done and done 10’s of repairs.could watch ur vlogs forever top chap. E bikes have some Kevlar tape to trap between tube and tyre. Since I have used it. Never had a puncture except on my new bike just. Where I ride its the hawthorns. If yu check tape out cant put a nail thru but doesnt protects side walls. Not sure if do for mcycles
Cheers Nathan. I’ve had the luxury of tubeless tyres for the last 9 years. Next bike is coming with tubes so this video is a timely reminder of the ‘fun’ of tube changing! Stay safe mate👍🏼
Himalayan? Check. Slime? Check. 3 year old assistant? Check. Crocs? Check! It's like looking in a mirror... Only difference.. You can change a motorcycle tyre. Me? Not so sure. Defo giving this a go. Thanks for the advice mate. Great channel 👍
Having fixed a puncture, refitting the wheel can sometimes be a bit of a struggle especially if it's the rear wheel even when the bike has a centre stand. Obviously, having someone to help you is the ideal solution but what do you do if you are alone? Here's a method I learned many years ago that has served me well. When refitting the rear wheel place an inner tube on the ground beneath it. Inflate that inner tube to raise the wheel so you can push the wheel spindle into place. Once that is done, deflate the tube and proceed as normal. I have found the inner tube from a scooter or trailer wheel is best (less pumping required) but any inner tube that will raise the rear wheel sufficiently will do. Of course much will depend on the specific make and model of motorcycle you have. Also, YMMV.
Glad to see Arthur is a good help. Thanks for this one, very useful. Have just fitted a K262 to the rear of the Innova. Not done a lot of m/c tyres, but plenty of bicycle tyres, which is relevant practice I think. When I put the Kenda on I thought I’d put too much air in the tube, but it was a real help in avoiding pinching the tube. Now waiting for the front wheel and front tyres to be delivered so I can see how inept I really am at this job! “Practice makes perfect”. Les
Bringing back painful memories of splitting a chain at the side of the road, wrecking yourmitts getting tyre off my xs650, then pushing bike about half a mile to the nearest gas station to get it re-inflated. 1985 so no phones, internet, inflator capsules, zilch. Those were the days😬
Perfect explanation. Easy when you're not stressed on the side of a motorway in the sun (or rain)! Plugged a few tubeless tyres on the side of the road but would probably try the foam I carry if I were to get a flat on my tubed bike in a place where I didn't feel safe / comfortable getting the tools out.
Yeah, not having a centre stand is a PITA changing a tube on the trail. I have a "trail jack" that goes under the swing arm (put side stand down, lean bike over onto side stand so rear wheel is in the air, put jack under swing arm on opposite side to side stand). Keeps the rear wheel off the ground. I can do the front wheel too using the engine guard as a brace point. You can get expensive aluminium trail jacks (light weight) or cheap steel ones. I would prefer a centre stand, but this is a good option if you don't have one.
I had to do this the other month after coming out and finding I'd picked up a nail in the rear tire of my Himalayan. I've done plenty of bicycles but this was my first cycle tire. Thankfully I have a 3 lever set and I still had some bicycle tube patches. It's still holding but I should have a new tire and tube in about a week and a half. My time was about 6x longer than yours 😆
+1 for Tyreweld or similar. I've only used it twice in recent years but it has worked both times in as much as it 'fixed' the leak for several hours or more, plenty of time to get home or hopefully a tyre shop.
i have used the TUbliss system for a few thousand miles and a few years there great however not really road legal and if you start doing high speeds with them over time they can get dammaged, also they dont work with all narrow tyers. but beaing able to plug a punchre and keep going si great also makes tyer swapps alot easer as there is no tube to pinch
know exactly where your comeing from .last big trip ruined because of a puncture on Applecross pass .valve stem ripped out so unrepairable and gess who forgot to pack the spare tube . 3 days waiting for replacement to arrive . i find normal household soap to work well for tyre lube and its something thats in your kit already .Oh and fastest ive ever done a tube change is just over 2 minutes (it was a split rim scooter )
For information, there are many many different salts, the salt in fairy liquid and other washing up liquids is not a corrosive. It is safe to use on your wheel.
I converted the rear tyre of my 2017 AT to tubeless with 3M tape, it has been fine and never gone down in 20k miles, I have renewed it once as a precaution, bit it wasn't necessary.. I've kept the tube in the front as it has not tyre bead thing on the rim, and I figured if the tyre repair kit doesn't work it is easier to remove the front wheel ..
For those of us with smaller bikes there can be an issue with sealing and taping the wheels. The narrow wheel well and protruding spoke nipples are just too hard to make this ‘traditional’ tubeless conversion work on the Honda CT125 - it can also be a lot more expensive timewise and financially than the split tube method
I picked up a Himalayan a few months back, my first tubed motorbike. I've changed out tyres and inner tubes for a push bike at home - this is similar in theory but I reckon I'd struggle out in the field for my first go! I'm tempted to perhaps buy a set of Michelin inner tubes as an "upgrade", keep the stock inner tubes as spares and get some practice in by changing them over. It would also be good to know if there's an easy way to measure which tyres have softer sidewalls and are therefore easier for an amateur to work with - is it in the compound, the wall thickness or something like the Threads Per Inch (TPI)?
Hi Nathan maybe because in old just don't understand why so many bikes don't have a center stand from maintanance to removing a wheel it makes so much sense. Extra weight? Its minimal compared to inconvenience of not having one. Great vid Cheers Marc
At home, invest in a tub of tyre soap, it makes an enormous difference pretty sure you could also just put some in a little pot to go in your tool kit.
@@nathanthepostman sadly not. I used to use talc but tyre soap is next level. Comes in a big tub with a brush. You lather it up in the tub then paste it all over. Super slippy but it wipes right off and dries away
I have a zero success rate of putting a tube in without nipping. I also found Pirelli MT where so solid, i needed a bench vice to break the seal, and almost impossible to get off with 8in levers. Its almost enough to make me look for a bike with tubless rims.
I've seen the DIY tubeless video. Neat. Have you had any isses with Slime unbalancing a wheel, Nathan, or is that just a biker myth? A product I have researched which really seems to work is Bike Seal. More expensive, though. Very useful video.
Thanks Nathan very interesting. Question, have you or anyone else reading this had experience with ease of fitting TKC70's. I normally use TKC 80's but for one of my bikes am thinking of changing to TKC70's as it rarely sees much dirt tbh. Thanks in advance.
The whole "tubeless conversion" thing is a bit dangerous IMO, there is a reason companies like Honda and BMW spend thousands developing spoked tubeless rims. Spoked rims bend and flex, putting some silicone and some sticky tape on the inside of them doesn't cut the mustard. They might be okay, until you're going down the dual carriageway one day at 70mph and one goes pop lol
I disagree. The tape and silicone can flex with the rim to maintain air pressure. If you take a nail or other significant object through the tyre and tube air almost immediately exits via the spoke nipples and valve. In the tubeless scenario however it can only escape though the original wound giving a much slower and controlled deflation to manage. The split tube conversion offers, arguably, the best of both worlds
It can be a bit of a fiddle if you are not taking the whole tyre off. Look on eBay for a "motorcycle valve puller", takes up next to no room in the toolkit. Put the end of the puller through the valve stem hole in the wheel, screw the end into the valve itself and you can then pull (gently) the valve through the hole in the rim.
you can get a tool for that - its a threaded cap with a cable and pull handle. lyndon poskitt tip was to take the tyre fully off, fit the valve through the hole fit the locknut loose, then fit the tyre, pushing the tube in once you have one side fitted. watch his video on puncture repair, the man is an offroad legend, if you dont know that already, he has done several dakar rallys (he uses tubes as most off roaders do)
a point with tubeless tyres - the `in the field` plug repair - is that classed as `temporary`? ie you need to have it repaired `professionally`, or is it best practise to replace the tyre for safety? - can you even inflate a tubeless tyre with a handpump? I am old school, and prefer tubes for roadside repairs, especially in remote locations, and would class a new tube as a permanent fix (as long as the tyre isnt cut/damaged) as a footnote - i had 2 punctures in a week recently, cause by thorns from hedge cutting, arent they supposed to sweep the road after cutting? gets me so mad, it is expensive and VERY inconvenient :(
Yes technically the plug kits for the tubeless tyres are deemed 'temporary' and ideally you should get a proper plug put in (from the inside) or a new tyre. On my own personal bikes I've just left the tyre weld in and ridden until the tyre's worn out. As long as they hold air I'm happy to ride on. But for the bikes I run on fleet for others to ride I'd always replace or repair proper.
Still don't understand why so few subscribers. I love your videos, so much common sense in one tin.
Great video i have a himalayan and did get a puncture in the back wheel, i had all the kit to replace the tube on the side of the road, but no tyre sealant it was at the end of the day, and tipping down with rain so used the recovery and had to wait nearly 3 hrs, to be taken home i put a new tube in myself changing the tyre was fairly easy, but i did struggle getting the back wheel back in but i am 70yrs old, i think that was the right choice for me, so I'll make sure i take my sealant with me from now on, take care and ride safe 👍
Twice over the years I have used the "fix a flat" foam spray to air up a tubed tire. Yes the next day it was flat again but it held up enough to get me the 20 or so miles home. Breaking a bead on a real tuff tire, a couple of times I've put the wheel/tire back on the bike with the valve core removed and rode the bike down the road at low speed and kind of weave back and forth a bit until I heard the thunk of the bead breaking. Of course I was doing that close to my house were I was going to repair. As you've pointed out some tires are a real bear to lever on, but generally I've found knobby dirt/dual sport tires pretty easy. It's the bigger tubeless that generally give you the trouble.
When I got my Innova for The Grand Challenge I bought some Kenda K262's and used it as an opportunity to learn how to fit a tyre myself. On those size wheels and tyres it wasn't half as difficult as I imagined (though I did nip an old tube on my first attempt rushing at the end!). I'm REALLY pleased I tried it the first time at home with the luxury of time and comfort. I now feel far more confident in being able to do so at the roadside or on a trail 👍
Good work Richard. Glad you got them on ok
@@nathanthepostman cheers! I'm not sure I'd tackle the Himalayan with E07's though 😬 I think I'm going to get some slime to try and minimise the chances though.
I'm so happy I stayed to the end of this video to see little Arthur looking identical to you. Down to the hairstyle and crocs! Mega sweet. Hope all is well.
The curved type of tyre lever is a Michelin type, bloody good too, made by other companies as well. Don't be shy with the lube and take your time, small bites, don't be greedy or panic (she said. . . ). Good tips there, almost like you know what you are on about 👍.
IHi Nathan - I did comment here about the split tube or ‘ghetto’ tubeless conversion and have done it to my CT125. As you said it is a whole lot easier to plug a tyre than remove the wheel, tyre and tube to make repair - especially late on in a wet February Saturday in the depths of the Highlands!
Norally of Itchy Boots is currently riding on the edge of the Sahara and comments that while she can drop her pressures in deep sand intervening stretches of hard rock means she is in danger of snakebiting her tubes. With the split tube scenario what remains of the tube is now clamped securely between the rim and the outside bead of the tyre and out of range of those pesky rocks!
You do have to perform the simple surgery to a couple of slightly smaller tubes but that leaves the originals as spares in your tankbag if you have to revert due to a tear or similar!
Here is a video of a KLR650 having the roadside surgery performed, and as we see it is both quick and simple
th-cam.com/video/60bi1r2Xvbo/w-d-xo.html
Cheers
Thanks Tony, glad you commented to share the link!
Just done my new e bike tyres crikes worst ever done and done 10’s of repairs.could watch ur vlogs forever top chap. E bikes have some Kevlar tape to trap between tube and tyre. Since I have used it. Never had a puncture except on my new bike just. Where I ride its the hawthorns. If yu check tape out cant put a nail thru but doesnt protects side walls. Not sure if do for mcycles
Cheers Nathan. I’ve had the luxury of tubeless tyres for the last 9 years. Next bike is coming with tubes so this video is a timely reminder of the ‘fun’ of tube changing! Stay safe mate👍🏼
Himalayan? Check. Slime? Check. 3 year old assistant? Check. Crocs? Check! It's like looking in a mirror... Only difference.. You can change a motorcycle tyre. Me? Not so sure. Defo giving this a go. Thanks for the advice mate. Great channel 👍
Ha. Cheers Brian. Hope all is going well with the assistant. They sure take some chasing after!.
Having fixed a puncture, refitting the wheel can sometimes be a bit of a struggle especially if it's the rear wheel even when the bike has a centre stand. Obviously, having someone to help you is the ideal solution but what do you do if you are alone?
Here's a method I learned many years ago that has served me well.
When refitting the rear wheel place an inner tube on the ground beneath it. Inflate that inner tube to raise the wheel so you can push the wheel spindle into place. Once that is done, deflate the tube and proceed as normal.
I have found the inner tube from a scooter or trailer wheel is best (less pumping required) but any inner tube that will raise the rear wheel sufficiently will do.
Of course much will depend on the specific make and model of motorcycle you have. Also, YMMV.
Love the esso sighn put a tiger in your tank , I remember the advert on TV lol
Glad to see Arthur is a good help. Thanks for this one, very useful. Have just fitted a K262 to the rear of the Innova. Not done a lot of m/c tyres, but plenty of bicycle tyres, which is relevant practice I think. When I put the Kenda on I thought I’d put too much air in the tube, but it was a real help in avoiding pinching the tube. Now waiting for the front wheel and front tyres to be delivered so I can see how inept I really am at this job! “Practice makes perfect”. Les
Bringing back painful memories of splitting a chain at the side of the road, wrecking yourmitts getting tyre off my xs650, then pushing bike about half a mile to the nearest gas station to get it re-inflated. 1985 so no phones, internet, inflator capsules, zilch. Those were the days😬
I'm curious about the tube to tubeless DIY conversion. I think I grasped the concept and might give it a try with an old tube.
Perfect explanation. Easy when you're not stressed on the side of a motorway in the sun (or rain)!
Plugged a few tubeless tyres on the side of the road but would probably try the foam I carry if I were to get a flat on my tubed bike in a place where I didn't feel safe / comfortable getting the tools out.
Yeah, not having a centre stand is a PITA changing a tube on the trail. I have a "trail jack" that goes under the swing arm (put side stand down, lean bike over onto side stand so rear wheel is in the air, put jack under swing arm on opposite side to side stand). Keeps the rear wheel off the ground. I can do the front wheel too using the engine guard as a brace point. You can get expensive aluminium trail jacks (light weight) or cheap steel ones. I would prefer a centre stand, but this is a good option if you don't have one.
That’s how I clean my chain suzuki vstrom only side stand.i cable tie front brake lever too
My tenere was bloody aweful to change the tyres on even in the workshop. Kept my AA membership active for that one.
I had to do this the other month after coming out and finding I'd picked up a nail in the rear tire of my Himalayan.
I've done plenty of bicycles but this was my first cycle tire.
Thankfully I have a 3 lever set and I still had some bicycle tube patches.
It's still holding but I should have a new tire and tube in about a week and a half.
My time was about 6x longer than yours 😆
I've suffered a couple of flats on my Himalayan, bought some mtb tube tyre slime from local Asda it works a treat.
+1 for Tyreweld or similar. I've only used it twice in recent years but it has worked both times in as much as it 'fixed' the leak for several hours or more, plenty of time to get home or hopefully a tyre shop.
Thanks Nathan - great, useful content.
Excellent tutorial Nathan
Brilliant tutorial. Many thanks 👍
Super job Nathan, excellent tutorial
Brilliant. Very useful, thank you.
Great video! 👍
Really useful video thanks nathan
Hah! Good therapy for puncture-anxiety! Thank you.
Top job bud 👌🏻
i have used the TUbliss system for a few thousand miles and a few years there great however not really road legal and if you start doing high speeds with them over time they can get dammaged, also they dont work with all narrow tyers. but beaing able to plug a punchre and keep going si great also makes tyer swapps alot easer as there is no tube to pinch
know exactly where your comeing from .last big trip ruined because of a puncture on Applecross pass .valve stem ripped out so unrepairable and gess who forgot to pack the spare tube . 3 days waiting for replacement to arrive . i find normal household soap to work well for tyre lube and its something thats in your kit already .Oh and fastest ive ever done a tube change is just over 2 minutes (it was a split rim scooter )
For information, there are many many different salts, the salt in fairy liquid and other washing up liquids is not a corrosive. It is safe to use on your wheel.
Banging that metal sign goes right through my headphones like a gong 😀
I converted the rear tyre of my 2017 AT to tubeless with 3M tape, it has been fine and never gone down in 20k miles, I have renewed it once as a precaution, bit it wasn't necessary.. I've kept the tube in the front as it has not tyre bead thing on the rim, and I figured if the tyre repair kit doesn't work it is easier to remove the front wheel ..
For those of us with smaller bikes there can be an issue with sealing and taping the wheels. The narrow wheel well and protruding spoke nipples are just too hard to make this ‘traditional’ tubeless conversion work on the Honda CT125 - it can also be a lot more expensive timewise and financially than the split tube method
I bought the lever to change the tyre on my Him,,,but the Metzelger tourance was too tough to break so I rode home flat (10 miles,no ill affects ..
Good to hear lipsee. Glad you got it back ok
Hi Nathan, good video. Do you have a link to your tyre levers?
I think Bike seal is probably the best set and forget sealant, no shelf life but only downside it's expensive but it'll last the life of the tube.
Great video and advice 👍
If you use a can of the puncture repair foam and it doesn’t work does it make it more difficult to remove the tube?
Good question. if it fails and leaks through the hole it's supposed to fix then it can get a bit foamy but not as bad as Slime.
I picked up a Himalayan a few months back, my first tubed motorbike. I've changed out tyres and inner tubes for a push bike at home - this is similar in theory but I reckon I'd struggle out in the field for my first go!
I'm tempted to perhaps buy a set of Michelin inner tubes as an "upgrade", keep the stock inner tubes as spares and get some practice in by changing them over. It would also be good to know if there's an easy way to measure which tyres have softer sidewalls and are therefore easier for an amateur to work with - is it in the compound, the wall thickness or something like the Threads Per Inch (TPI)?
Hi Nathan maybe because in old just don't understand why so many bikes don't have a center stand from maintanance to removing a wheel it makes so much sense. Extra weight? Its minimal compared to inconvenience of not having one. Great vid
Cheers Marc
At home, invest in a tub of tyre soap, it makes an enormous difference pretty sure you could also just put some in a little pot to go in your tool kit.
Cheers Adrian. Does it smell as nice as the baby powder!
@@nathanthepostman sadly not. I used to use talc but tyre soap is next level. Comes in a big tub with a brush. You lather it up in the tub then paste it all over. Super slippy but it wipes right off and dries away
@@Dadzone2000 Cheers Adrian. Yeah I might try some then. Thanks for the heads up
I have a zero success rate of putting a tube in without nipping. I also found Pirelli MT where so solid, i needed a bench vice to break the seal, and almost impossible to get off with 8in levers. Its almost enough to make me look for a bike with tubless rims.
I’ve used MT21 and had no issues with getting them on and off the rim, biggest issue was getting the tyre to sit on the rim! Bloody nightmare!
I've seen the DIY tubeless video. Neat. Have you had any isses with Slime unbalancing a wheel, Nathan, or is that just a biker myth? A product I have researched which really seems to work is Bike Seal. More expensive, though.
Very useful video.
Thanks Nathan very interesting. Question, have you or anyone else reading this had experience with ease of fitting TKC70's. I normally use TKC 80's but for one of my bikes am thinking of changing to TKC70's as it rarely sees much dirt tbh. Thanks in advance.
Yes no problem. They're fairly similar to the 80s. You should be a-okay with the TKC70s
The whole "tubeless conversion" thing is a bit dangerous IMO, there is a reason companies like Honda and BMW spend thousands developing spoked tubeless rims. Spoked rims bend and flex, putting some silicone and some sticky tape on the inside of them doesn't cut the mustard. They might be okay, until you're going down the dual carriageway one day at 70mph and one goes pop lol
I disagree. The tape and silicone can flex with the rim to maintain air pressure. If you take a nail or other significant object through the tyre and tube air almost immediately exits via the spoke nipples and valve. In the tubeless scenario however it can only escape though the original wound giving a much slower and controlled deflation to manage. The split tube conversion offers, arguably, the best of both worlds
Good vid 👍 Any tips to get the valve through the rim? Recall having trouble when doing the rear on my himi -no room to get my hands in 😅
It can be a bit of a fiddle if you are not taking the whole tyre off. Look on eBay for a "motorcycle valve puller", takes up next to no room in the toolkit. Put the end of the puller through the valve stem hole in the wheel, screw the end into the valve itself and you can then pull (gently) the valve through the hole in the rim.
you can get a tool for that - its a threaded cap with a cable and pull handle. lyndon poskitt tip was to take the tyre fully off, fit the valve through the hole fit the locknut loose, then fit the tyre, pushing the tube in once you have one side fitted. watch his video on puncture repair, the man is an offroad legend, if you dont know that already, he has done several dakar rallys (he uses tubes as most off roaders do)
a point with tubeless tyres - the `in the field` plug repair - is that classed as `temporary`? ie you need to have it repaired `professionally`, or is it best practise to replace the tyre for safety? - can you even inflate a tubeless tyre with a handpump?
I am old school, and prefer tubes for roadside repairs, especially in remote locations, and would class a new tube as a permanent fix (as long as the tyre isnt cut/damaged) as a footnote - i had 2 punctures in a week recently, cause by thorns from hedge cutting, arent they supposed to sweep the road after cutting? gets me so mad, it is expensive and VERY inconvenient :(
Yes technically the plug kits for the tubeless tyres are deemed 'temporary' and ideally you should get a proper plug put in (from the inside) or a new tyre. On my own personal bikes I've just left the tyre weld in and ridden until the tyre's worn out. As long as they hold air I'm happy to ride on. But for the bikes I run on fleet for others to ride I'd always replace or repair proper.
I had to cut my e07 off of my tiger, tough l8ttlr s#%ts
How about carrying a G-clamp to break the bead? Maybe there is such a thing as a lightweight aluminium clamp thats just strong enough for the job.
Good idea something like a light weight spring compressor or use the side stand if you have someone to help