It is possible to remove door panels without scatching the plastic. Just need to get the right angle the FIRST time 😒. That's why i made these videos. Don't let my sacrifice go to waste!! 🥲
@@rockobeam2706 the sound deadening material can cost from $1.7 up to $8.2 per square foot based on brand. Currently, the best tested brand is ResoNix which is what used. You can use less of it compared to other brands too.
If you don't need to roll the window down or ever take the door apart a can of Great Stuff foam injected in there might do the trick 😉 just kidding. Nice to see the Maverick hacked for options already .
I have my Subaru XV done and it makes a car feel so much more solid. And if its cold/hot it is insulation that makes it easier to keep car at temp. But your re doing it right and so many don’t.
The little red reflector on the the side of the plastic door trim needs to be popped out and a screw removed from it as well before popping the door off. I learned this after watching your video only to realize I missed a screw on the first door panel removal. Sound deadening the door was far easier than doing the rear behind the seat. I removed the rear seat and that plastic bins under the seat and added sound deadener to all of that area. I’d like to do the front doors as well, but don’t want to mess with removing the large piece of plastic where the vapor barrier on is on the back door. Did you do the front doors?
Thanks for the info! Didn’t know about the screw behind the reflector. I did sound deaden the front doors. Check out my video on it. It’s some work to get the black plastic panel off since it’s actually part of the window regulator.
Glad i could help lol. The first part of the video was showing how frustrating it can be when you don't know what you're doing. Hopefully it helps others do the job quicker.
I wonder if a heat gun would have helped release the butyl rubber sealing the vapor guard? I imagine it would. It would be nice to remove it intact. I bet your efforts paid off. Sound deadening works.
I have used a razor knife on my cars and it works perfect. Jus need to go slow and not cut the plastic. Did it a few weeks back on my sons 2002 Toyota Tacoma and it looks like it never came off the vehicle.
You had me until that vapor cover came off... It didn't look as good but overall the end result was choice! good job. I'm curious for before and after results.
Oh yeah, forgot to record the before and after sound check in this video. You can find it on my front speaker install video at the beginning. Vapor cover went back on well enough. Seemed like a good seal after using the roller.
I did the same thing to my toyota yaris 15 years ago.. toyota yaris was cheap so road noise was horrible compared to 'say' a lexus. I used roof mat but apparently i was lucky because the mat i used never smelled anything. Some roof mat can have toxic or weird smell.. it worked great for the yaris it definitely felt more luxurious but it still wasn't as good as a real luxury car eventhough i did the trunk too.. After the toyota i got a subaru which didn't need sound deadening..they are better made than toyota. After subaru i got a jeep wrangler. I guess i missed to wind noise lol.. a jeep wrangler door is alot more difficult to access the inner panel, less plastic but tons of screws. Im getting the hybrid maverick xlt lux pack in may. Going from wrangler to maverick is kinda step down..so i hope the road noise isn't thst bad and i won't need to do that again. Anyway, you should have post a picture of the inner door before and after to see where you put the mat.. and post a video of before and after on the highway..
I did about 90% coverage inside the door with sound deadening material. The rear doors were a lot easier than the front ones since i didn't have to remove the window regulator which was attached to a large black plastic panel. My last car was a 2001 Civic so a big upgrade in cabin noise with the Maverick. I wished I measured noise levels before and after. Maybe once some family members get their Mavs, I can do a comparison. Thanks!
Honestly, i thought the cabin was fairly quiet to begin with. Can't really tell if there is a difference now just from road noise. But my subwoofer sounds clean with no rattles 😆. That was the goal of this project.
Hey thanks for this video. This helped me sound deaden my rear doors. One issue I just realized I have now is that one of my doors doesn't lock when the truck locks and can be opened at any time. The other rear door doesn't have that issue. I think it must have to do with the the cable mechanism for the door handle. Any ideas? Did you run into any trouble? Thanks -Sam
I actually did have this issue with the driver side front door lock. I could lock it manually with the key and open it with the key fob but it wouldn’t lock with the key fob. I had it at the dealership for an unrelated problem and they must of needed access inside the door because the issue was resolved when I got it back. Good news is it must be how we reattached the door mechanism? My guess is there was too much slack in the cable when reinstalling it? Did the door handle mechanism sit firmly in place when reattaching it? I recall you had to fit it under a small tab first before snapping it back in. Sorry I couldn’t be much help. Let me know if you figure it out.
@@LazyMex Just went out to the truck and fixed it. Something to do with the smaller lever above the handle (I thought it was child lock). Anyway I pulled the small lever above the handle out and heard a snap (there was pressure on that lever). Now the door works and locks with the rest of the truck. I'm guessing that the little lever above the handle needs to be in a certain position when you reinstall the cables to the interior door panel. Thanks for your help. -Sam
@@samhazel8133 Nice work! Thanks for the tip! I do remember that lever was sitting slightly inward too. Makes sense it needs to be positioned correctly when reinstalling.
@@melvinhunt6976 😂😂 I've definitely don't blast the music like i did as a kid anymore. Already have enough hearing loss from it. I aimed for music that sounds more balanced. Some bass but not over the top.
I love the Justrolledin video of a guy bringing his vehicle in because the windows didn't work. Mechanic pulled off the door panel and saw the owner had sound proofedcthe doors and all the adhesive melted in the heat and flowed down into the window motors. But I'm sure that won't happen to your truck. You live in Alaska, right?
Hahaha! Sounds like that person used some cheap stuff from Home Depot or something. The brand of CLD i used is called Resonix and can handle the heat just fine. I guess time will tell. I live in AZ by the way 😁😉. Made it thru my first summer already!! +110 deg temps. Maybe I’ll do an update vid and examine inside the doors. Thanks!
I'm planning to add sound deadening when mine arrives (its got the Bose upgrade speakers so just needs sound deadening) but don't know how far I will go. Between backseat, backdoors and front doors, what made the biggest difference? Would you front doors if it were not for the speaker upgrade?
This is a tough question to answer. Kind of wish i did before and after measurements now. I upgraded the front door speakers and sound deaden them at the same time. Can't really say how big the difference was but my door speakers sound clean without any rattling noises. I've heard others mention that their door panels vibrated like hell after they upgraded their speakers. I would focus on the door panel itself first with CLD and CCF first. See how it sounds (or better yet, measure with mic). If you feel like the midbass is lacking or sounds 'muddy', then go back in and sound deaden the inside of door (time consuming job). Treating the rear doors probably didn't have much effect. But since i have a large subwoofer, i thought it would help with tighter sounding bass. Same for the rear wall. I feel like the storage bins were making noise too so i treated them with some CLD and CCF on the edges where they contact the vehicle. After all that, bass sounds clean. I don't hear the vehicle rattling from it. Since this was my first SQ build, i wanted to see what a fully sound deaden system was like. Sounds great but I'm sure there was diminishing returns at some point.
Here is someone's experience with the B&O stereo upgrade. They mentioned that sound deadening the back wall and storage bins is a must with the subwoofer back there. Front door panels also need sound treatment for rattling. www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/sound-deadening-material-applied-to-doors-and-back-wall.15374/post-298743
@@LazyMex Thanks for responding. Seemed like the back wall and back doors were pretty easy to do so I will do those, and then work up the courage to deal with the front doors. Thanks for the videos as a guide - don;t think I'd take this on without a guide.
I didn't take any measurements before and after to honestly say it reduced cabin noise. It's main purpose is to reduce any vibrations in the thin sheet metal and plastic panels (mainly from the large subwoofer i have behind the passenger seat). Bass sounds clean without any rattling noises. Door also sounds more solid when you close it.
I appreciate your showing the true difficulty and frustration. That is REAL!
thanks for convincing me to NOT tear apart my Maverick.
Glad i could help!! 😂😂
It is possible to remove door panels without scatching the plastic. Just need to get the right angle the FIRST time 😒. That's why i made these videos. Don't let my sacrifice go to waste!! 🥲
How much does that stuff cost?
@@rockobeam2706 the sound deadening material can cost from $1.7 up to $8.2 per square foot based on brand. Currently, the best tested brand is ResoNix which is what used. You can use less of it compared to other brands too.
If you don't need to roll the window down or ever take the door apart a can of Great Stuff foam injected in there might do the trick 😉 just kidding. Nice to see the Maverick hacked for options already .
I have my Subaru XV done and it makes a car feel so much more solid. And if its cold/hot it is insulation that makes it easier to keep car at temp. But your re doing it right and so many don’t.
Thanks!
The little red reflector on the the side of the plastic door trim needs to be popped out and a screw removed from it as well before popping the door off. I learned this after watching your video only to realize I missed a screw on the first door panel removal. Sound deadening the door was far easier than doing the rear behind the seat. I removed the rear seat and that plastic bins under the seat and added sound deadener to all of that area. I’d like to do the front doors as well, but don’t want to mess with removing the large piece of plastic where the vapor barrier on is on the back door. Did you do the front doors?
Thanks for the info! Didn’t know about the screw behind the reflector.
I did sound deaden the front doors. Check out my video on it. It’s some work to get the black plastic panel off since it’s actually part of the window regulator.
Nice work 👍
It took one minute of your video for me to decide I am not doing this.
Glad i could help lol. The first part of the video was showing how frustrating it can be when you don't know what you're doing. Hopefully it helps others do the job quicker.
Good job! 👍
Thanks!
I wonder if a heat gun would have helped release the butyl rubber sealing the vapor guard? I imagine it would. It would be nice to remove it intact. I bet your efforts paid off. Sound deadening works.
That's a good idea. Didn't think of using my heat gun. Truck definitely sounds solid. No rattling with my subwoofer blasting lol
I have used a razor knife on my cars and it works perfect. Jus need to go slow and not cut the plastic. Did it a few weeks back on my sons 2002 Toyota Tacoma and it looks like it never came off the vehicle.
You had me until that vapor cover came off...
It didn't look as good but overall the end result was choice! good job.
I'm curious for before and after results.
Oh yeah, forgot to record the before and after sound check in this video. You can find it on my front speaker install video at the beginning.
Vapor cover went back on well enough. Seemed like a good seal after using the roller.
@@LazyMex thanks for the tutorial. I'm gonna try and give it a shot. Hopefully i don't f*ck it up.
@@jquiznos2283 take a picture of how the door handle is attached. That can be tricky re-attaching if it’s your first time. Good luck!
I did the same thing to my toyota yaris 15 years ago.. toyota yaris was cheap so road noise was horrible compared to 'say' a lexus. I used roof mat but apparently i was lucky because the mat i used never smelled anything. Some roof mat can have toxic or weird smell.. it worked great for the yaris it definitely felt more luxurious but it still wasn't as good as a real luxury car eventhough i did the trunk too.. After the toyota i got a subaru which didn't need sound deadening..they are better made than toyota. After subaru i got a jeep wrangler. I guess i missed to wind noise lol.. a jeep wrangler door is alot more difficult to access the inner panel, less plastic but tons of screws. Im getting the hybrid maverick xlt lux pack in may. Going from wrangler to maverick is kinda step down..so i hope the road noise isn't thst bad and i won't need to do that again. Anyway, you should have post a picture of the inner door before and after to see where you put the mat.. and post a video of before and after on the highway..
I did about 90% coverage inside the door with sound deadening material. The rear doors were a lot easier than the front ones since i didn't have to remove the window regulator which was attached to a large black plastic panel.
My last car was a 2001 Civic so a big upgrade in cabin noise with the Maverick. I wished I measured noise levels before and after. Maybe once some family members get their Mavs, I can do a comparison. Thanks!
Am thinking of doing the same thing on mine, is the result worth that effort?
Do you plan on installing a subwoofer? If so, I think so!
How much of a difference did it make?
Honestly, i thought the cabin was fairly quiet to begin with. Can't really tell if there is a difference now just from road noise. But my subwoofer sounds clean with no rattles 😆. That was the goal of this project.
Hey thanks for this video. This helped me sound deaden my rear doors. One issue I just realized I have now is that one of my doors doesn't lock when the truck locks and can be opened at any time. The other rear door doesn't have that issue. I think it must have to do with the the cable mechanism for the door handle. Any ideas? Did you run into any trouble? Thanks
-Sam
I actually did have this issue with the driver side front door lock. I could lock it manually with the key and open it with the key fob but it wouldn’t lock with the key fob.
I had it at the dealership for an unrelated problem and they must of needed access inside the door because the issue was resolved when I got it back. Good news is it must be how we reattached the door mechanism?
My guess is there was too much slack in the cable when reinstalling it? Did the door handle mechanism sit firmly in place when reattaching it? I recall you had to fit it under a small tab first before snapping it back in.
Sorry I couldn’t be much help. Let me know if you figure it out.
@@LazyMex Just went out to the truck and fixed it. Something to do with the smaller lever above the handle (I thought it was child lock). Anyway I pulled the small lever above the handle out and heard a snap (there was pressure on that lever). Now the door works and locks with the rest of the truck. I'm guessing that the little lever above the handle needs to be in a certain position when you reinstall the cables to the interior door panel. Thanks for your help.
-Sam
@@samhazel8133 Nice work! Thanks for the tip! I do remember that lever was sitting slightly inward too. Makes sense it needs to be positioned correctly when reinstalling.
I haven’t noticed any road noise from the back doors of my maverick!
Same. But my subwoofer sits in the back and was vibrating the crap out of the doors!
@@LazyMex lve out grown that kind of stuff!
@@melvinhunt6976 😂😂 I've definitely don't blast the music like i did as a kid anymore. Already have enough hearing loss from it. I aimed for music that sounds more balanced. Some bass but not over the top.
I love the Justrolledin video of a guy bringing his vehicle in because the windows didn't work. Mechanic pulled off the door panel and saw the owner had sound proofedcthe doors and all the adhesive melted in the heat and flowed down into the window motors. But I'm sure that won't happen to your truck. You live in Alaska, right?
Hahaha! Sounds like that person used some cheap stuff from Home Depot or something. The brand of CLD i used is called Resonix and can handle the heat just fine. I guess time will tell. I live in AZ by the way 😁😉. Made it thru my first summer already!! +110 deg temps. Maybe I’ll do an update vid and examine inside the doors. Thanks!
what happened to the before and after sound check?
Damn, i should have done that. I got lazy (living up to my username). Its similar to the front door sound check on my first video if that helps
I'm planning to add sound deadening when mine arrives (its got the Bose upgrade speakers so just needs sound deadening) but don't know how far I will go. Between backseat, backdoors and front doors, what made the biggest difference? Would you front doors if it were not for the speaker upgrade?
This is a tough question to answer. Kind of wish i did before and after measurements now.
I upgraded the front door speakers and sound deaden them at the same time. Can't really say how big the difference was but my door speakers sound clean without any rattling noises. I've heard others mention that their door panels vibrated like hell after they upgraded their speakers. I would focus on the door panel itself first with CLD and CCF first. See how it sounds (or better yet, measure with mic). If you feel like the midbass is lacking or sounds 'muddy', then go back in and sound deaden the inside of door (time consuming job).
Treating the rear doors probably didn't have much effect. But since i have a large subwoofer, i thought it would help with tighter sounding bass. Same for the rear wall. I feel like the storage bins were making noise too so i treated them with some CLD and CCF on the edges where they contact the vehicle.
After all that, bass sounds clean. I don't hear the vehicle rattling from it.
Since this was my first SQ build, i wanted to see what a fully sound deaden system was like. Sounds great but I'm sure there was diminishing returns at some point.
Here is someone's experience with the B&O stereo upgrade. They mentioned that sound deadening the back wall and storage bins is a must with the subwoofer back there. Front door panels also need sound treatment for rattling.
www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/sound-deadening-material-applied-to-doors-and-back-wall.15374/post-298743
@@LazyMex Thanks for responding. Seemed like the back wall and back doors were pretty easy to do so I will do those, and then work up the courage to deal with the front doors. Thanks for the videos as a guide - don;t think I'd take this on without a guide.
Are you near El Paso or southern New Mexico
Near Phoenix, AZ
Did it help to quite the truck?
I didn't take any measurements before and after to honestly say it reduced cabin noise. It's main purpose is to reduce any vibrations in the thin sheet metal and plastic panels (mainly from the large subwoofer i have behind the passenger seat). Bass sounds clean without any rattling noises.
Door also sounds more solid when you close it.
How many sq ft of Resonix cld did you use?
For the inner door, I want to say around 3 sqft. Maybe another 2 sqft on the door card
Why are you wearing that heavy duty face mask? It looks like you are outside and all by yourself!
HAHAHA!! Those are my headphones!! Was listening to music and forgot i had them on 😂