Putting it in the doors helps alot. I find it funny that people ask if the extra weight effects the mileage. Yet 70% of people in the U.S. are over weight more then this sound deadener. lol
I'm a Honda technician, I drove a car that was missing the wheel well guard once, and couldn't believe how loud the road noise was! That's what gave me the idea to insulate the wheel well liner. Also, anyone who has worked on a honda knows how thin their wheel well liners are.
20mm foam or fleece in a very thin polyethylene film (plastic bag material) will be most beneficial, applied to rear surface of wheel arch liner. 20mm is minimum for absorbing tire tread peak frequencies which are usually around 800-1200Hz, but can only be used if there is room for it, as you don’t want to push liner into wheel travel envelope. Also road noise best measured only up to around 30mph, above that wind noise starts to become predominant. Plastic film is to stop the absorber becoming filled with dirt when wet, reducing absorption. Sound deadener or damper pads are best applied to the body in flat areas. I did vehicle NVH for many years in a previous life. Hope this helps.
@@ScottoGrotto Yes you could definitely be right. As I said at the nd of the video, you might not see much difference with a luxury car but with a cheaper compact car, you'll have a better chance in being happy with your time and effort in installing this stuff. It's not expensive, just time consuming. Thanks for the feedback 😊
Would it be worth doing that to my 2011 BMW 328i, or does it probably have sufficient sound damping on the wheel wells? Also would it help to reduce cabin noise by putting a thin layer of butyl under the floor mats ? Thank you
@@Nightjar726 i don't think anyone has a catalog of cars stating whether they have insulation or not in certain spots. you'll have to pick up a screw driver and find out.
Keep in mind the logarithmic scale of the decibel measuremnent system. A noise reduction of "only" 3 decibel is equivalent to a reduction of 50% of the sound intensity. A noise reduction of "only" 2 decibels in your case is equivalent to approximately 33% reduction of the noise intensity. It's like having 2 radios broadcasting white noise instead of 3. So really it makes a nice difference, and for only a couple of dollars too, it sure makes it worth it
You are sorta close to right. (I’m being generous). About 10db increase (or decrease) is necessary for PERCEIVED doubling (or halving) of sound “volume.” Some (few adults) can hear a 3db change. Most people won’t notice a 2db change. Because of the logarithmic nature of audio intensity it’s very complicated. There was nothing scientific about this video.
I have successfully removed a LOT of drone noise and NVH (noise, vibration and harshness) from my car after doing four things that made a big difference. (And I had like everyone else started off by trying to get things quiet using butyl mats/dynamat etc. I realised that that had a very limited effect and beginners usually end up sticking down way too much of the stuff and later regret it because you start thinking how much you’ve weighed the car down by. And a year or three down the line you end up taking two thirds of it back out - or trying to). Here in England I run a 2011 Ford Mondeo (Fusion) estate/station wagon. MY FOUR BIG TIPS for INSTANTLY reducing noise (REMEMBER - you are NOT going to get your sub-$25thousand dollar car to hush like a Bentley. BUT - you can get a LONG way towards it.) NUMBER ONE - REPLACE YOUR TYRES. If you want quiet, you need to LIFT the car further away from the ground and have less tyre in contact with the ground. So run NARROWER tyres with a TALLER SIDE WALL and if you can a SMALLER RIM SIZE. I replaced my 215 55 R17 tyres with 205 65 R16 tyres on replaced 16 inch rims. This dramatically reduced the rolling drone of the tyres on the road and gave a softer ride because the taller side wall raised the car further above the ground as well as reducing the contact with the ground. Yes you will get less of a sporty ride but I’m not interested in a sporty ride. NUMBER TWO - INSERT SURGICAL TUBING into all your door seals. You need to improve resistance to outside sounds coming in. Adding surgical tubing into all your door seals makes them nice and snug. Don’t go TOO tight though - get the right tube width - or else you won’t be able to shut the doors and you’ll feel real dumb. NUMBER THREE - Buy cheap ‘RECON FOAM’ cut it up into small cubes and shove it compacted in all the empty cavities under the trim around the console, footwells and glove compartment. You wouldn’t believe how many just open holes there are in that area doing nothing but causing sound from the engine and up from the ground to reverberate around. Foam (NEVER USE SPRAY FOAM - it will enter places you really don’t want it to get and you will never get it out in the event of a repair requirement) dampens all that NVH and contributes to the multi-pronged solution we are going for. You need to do a LOT of things to add up to removing those decibels. NUMBER FOUR - Go to the back of the car. On most cars under the rear bumper on the left or right corner area hidden away you will find a one-way ventilation flap on each side of the car. These are interior pressure flaps that allow air to escape from the car when the doors are closed and to allow ‘used’ air to escape from the cabin as new air enters from the front air vents. BUT they usually are located behind a very large cavity that sits adjacent to the rear wheel arches. In some cars you can reach into this large empty cavity through the back hole at the rear of the small felt door/closet you find in the left or right wall of the boot/trunk - the little hidden hole you might put an emergency traffic cone of yellow jacket in for example. I discovered one of these cavities causes a LOT of droning noise. The noise from the rear wheel comes straight through them, reverberates and comes out through the rear air escape vent. FILL THAT CAVITY UP! DOn’t fill both - you need one to maintain the ability to release the cabin air pressure remember - and often the fuel fill area prevents access to one of the cavities depending on if you have a left or right hand drive. But if you can get access to one side - fill it up tight with old rags, recon foam, old pcarpet that can be scrunched up - you want as much as possible to remove cavity space that creates reverb. Use anything not too heavy but DENSE. So recon foam, being more dense, is a lot better at dampening and muffling drone that say bubble wrap. Pack it in tight - and there’s room for a lot of foam and rags in there. This for me REMOVED 80% of the heavy drone in the back of the car - particularly on long highway journeys. NUMBER FOUR POINT ONE (!) Not essential but this improved my car dramatically - If your car is one of those that tilts down slightly towards the front end (to allow for the backend to dip slightly and the car to even out when the trunk is fully loaded) buy a pair of polyurethane lifting spacers to sit at the top of your front struts. Your garage can fit them for about $250. They again move the from end higher off the ground, away from the noise of the road. So coupled with the tyres we’re really changing how close we are to the noise of the road. Plus they make the car sit more evenly and look a lot better. These are my main tips for really getting to a quieter, pleasant drive. And they have really worked for me. I wish you all the best with your own particular car - every one has its quirks and every one will have slightly different solutions. But persevere and you can get a nice result.
One safety tip: If you don't want to use or invest in proper lift stands, you can slide them under the frame (close to jack) as a safety measure. If the car falls off the jack, or the jack fails, it will fall onto the inflated tire or rim before crushing you. You might end up with a ruined tire or damaged wheel, but you should be fine. Plus, as the tire is rather wide, it will allow for a sideways slip (to some extent), not just up and down. As I have lift stands, this is something I always do when changing a tire roadside.
Stands are a must, a friend was killed when his jack failed. Hydraulic jacks are actually more dangerous than the the OEM jack as a hydraulic failure will cause it to collapse instantly. And the tire under the car is something I always do, even with stands......
@@ckm-mkc Any jack is better than the oem scissor jack. Even toyota/subaru says not to use them in the manual and they're known to commonly collapse (not fall, collapse).
This is amazing. I bought a spray on type for my vehicle, but it works well. I spray all the inner wheel fenders like you, however I took it one step further and inside the vehicle, I took out the interior plastics and trims and sprayed all the bare metals and wheel fender bump that you see inside most suv's in the trunk area ( I have a 4runner). Suv's generally produces the most road noise from that area of the trunk and I spray every part of it and the noise is NOTICEABLY gone now. This is the coolest hack ever to achieving a quieter vehicle !!!
That’s a significant reduction in decibels for one area of treatment! Quieter tires of course help here too. I switched to Michelin pilot 4 A/S, and my 2002 WRX Wagon became a lot friendlier on noise! I did the whole back of the car treatment up to the front seats to quiet the interior from my aftermarket axle back muffler :) I’ve been meaning to get around to the front of the interior for awhile… Looks like a good product you found. I used a butyl damping layer with closed cell foam adhered to the top. Layered up the butyl till it passed the rap test in an area. Then applied the foam layer. Thanks for sharing your experiences, cool videos!
The human ear can just about perceive a 1dB change, so 2dB is going to be pretty insignificant. Certainly not worth going to all that trouble for 2dB. Changing the tyres to a quieter tyre will have more of an effect on Road/Tyre noise, all be it a more expensive solution.
@@grahamtricker4103 Whether or not it's worth reducing the noise level 2 DB is going to be dependent on the person. You may not think it's worth it, but I do.
@@Ludak021Scotto didn't say anything related to a $20 noise reduction. I think you're a little mixed up. He simply sharing his experience in reducing noise for his vehicle.
I had a 2008 A3 Hatchback that I could always hear tire noise. I installed a waterproof sound deadener on the "cabin side" inside of the front fender liners. Made a noticeable difference. I was worried about trapping water (and causing rust) so I did not install on the metal body.
If you're serious about it, I prefer taking the seats out, then take the carpet out. A lot of the noise is harmonics from the frame. Go to your local rubber supplier and get a few sheets of the 3mm (or 5mm- better) with sticky backing and apply to the whole floor area, the panel behind the back seat squab, and as far up the front firewall as you can manage. Then replace the carpet and seats. Result...amazing! It looks like a Vauxhall but it rides like a Jag.....nuff said....
Another way to reduce noise: Make sure your tires are good and balanced. My tires are nearly worn out and I always notice how much quiter and smoother it is with new freshly balanced tires.
Tyres have a number of variables to manage that will influence Noise, Vibration. 1. Tread pattern and wear - noise magnitude and specific resonant frequencies for certain speeds - some are renowned for horrible noise. 2. Balance and air pressure - suspension bounce, and how well the tyre mates to the road dramatically impact vibration and thus introduced noise. 3. Tyre wall height. Lower profile = louder due to higher rigidity. 4. Tyre width. More tyre on the ground = more noise 5. Tyre compound. The hardness will alter the level of sound When shopping to replace your tyres it is REALLY helpful to investigate the quietest tyres for your vehicle that also still meet your driving needs and expectations for climate, life of tyre etc. Final tip, ask/investigate tyres different to your stock dimensions but still compatible (eg wider/narrower) because the more common a tyre is the cheaper it usually is. EG my car tyre costs $450 but if I buy the one 1.252cm wider it is for the most common vehicle in my country and only $200 for the same model.... economies of scale and competition at work :).
A good way to manage noise from tread wear is criss-cross-rotation instead of straight forward-to-back rotation. On all-season, winter, and light truck tires especially, tires develop a sawtooth directional wear pattern on the tread lugs. Moving this tire to the other side of the vehicle smooths this out as it starts wearing in the opposite direction. Non-drive tires experience greater sawtooth wear as they don't experience acceleration forces to counter the wear from braking and just being dragged along.
@@waffle911 interesting, might try this. although my biggest enemy has consistently been punctures😂 ive gotten 3 in 1 winter season. didnt realize till i was already switching to summer setup.
Great video and good point about the jack except that you are trusting your life to hydraulic seals ! It was drilled into me as a young lad never trust your life to hydraulic pressure only . I would recommend the addition of some sort of jack stand as the safest, most stable support .
Thanks for taking this on! I am a SQ sound listener and have done my whole car except for the wheel wells and the 20 Camry with the Panoramic sunroof. I will do the wells to add that extra from these noisy Mississippi roads! Semper Fi and Can Do
If you use this stuff try putting it in places that are flexible plastic stuff like door pockets, dash and center panel, door panels in the interior etc, you can hide it quite easily by tucking it under or in these areas, makes a big difference and it doesnt take much to dampen the sound a bit. A problem with putting this in the wheel wells is these areas need dissasembly to maintain the car for instance some lights and evap equipment requires the liners be removed to replace bulbs or parts. if you can avoid covering up the fasteners its ok.
What about those strips or rings of expanded foam, which they have started putting inside the tires of electric vehicles? Have you tried those? Maybe an idea for another video?
@@hammereisen7493 you mean insulate it from the inside? i assume this is what you meant cause from the outside, thatll just have a way for ice/snow/mud to stick to and could help corrode the car faster.
High quality tires also make a huge difference. I put new tires on my car a little over a year ago and now when I'm cruising on the highway at 75mph all I hear is the sound of the wind rushing over the body.
I stripped the interior of my Honda Pilot and used Dynamat and sound deadening foam throughout. It only decreased road noise a little bit. The upside was that the sound system sounded a lot better and the crappy subwoofer actually became noticeable. Anyways, putting sound deadening material in the wheel well should have been my first attempt as that's where most of the noise comes from. Don't know why Honda has never addressed their issue of excessive road noise from the tires.
Thanks for the tips. It is an easy modification to make. I tried this on two of my cars and it made a noticeable difference. I used some Noico sound deadener mats on the rear portion of the plastic fender liner and used spray on sound deadener on the front portion. (Reverse for the rear wheel wells) for a 2db reduction . It was a great start. I may purchase another Noico kit and try some other areas. The main reason I used so little on the liners was that I only had a few pieces left of a small 10 sq ft kit, and the rest was used on both hoods. Seeing the proof, I wish I purchased a larger kit to continue in the cabins.
Thanks for sharing! For the little money and a couple of hours of your time, it’s definitely worth doing. I also find that it’s not only quieter but the tone of the noise is much more tolerable.
Tires, TIRES make a BIG Difference. The rubber and tread design makes a Difference. The rubber is Harder today than it was years ago. The shape and size of tires also. Low profile, wide tires make more noise. Most of the noise comes from the trunk as the front engine bay on the fire wall has insulation on it already. I used an old fabric trunk matt and put it in my cargo area of my old 2010 Ford Escape and it made a (slight) difference. Taking the inside rear wheel well covers off and putting what you did on that area will make a (HUGE DIFFERENCE) as were the spare tire goes too.
You noticed that too? 😁 Yep. Imagine going through the effort to jack the car, remove the tire, breaking off a clip, then wondering how you'd get the well plastic firmly and safely back into place so you can use the car.
@@SayWhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaat you might be pretty good with working on 20 yr old econoboxes because how brittle those things get especially in places that get to -20c temps around the rustbelt areas
The metal ones work for this one and are more effective. The plastic ones would still work but have higher chances of breaking a clip. Know from experience (today)
If you're not using a jack stand, the jack that comes with your vehicle is going to be more stable and reliable than a hydraulic will. Hydraulic jacks are meant to put cars on jack stands. They are not meant to hold the car while you're working underneath. Obviously, supporting a vehicle by any method requires that you have the wheels at the other end locked, like with the parking brake or with wheel chocks.
I use to make my work car a little quieter by laying black towels under and over the rear floor mats heavy quilts in the trunk. Was easy and didn't cost much. Now I'm retired and I need the space for my family. It worked.
Mass panels aren't what you use there. Dynamat and the like are used to change the resonance frequency of the panels. You want to fill the space of the fender that precedes the door edge with something to absorb/diffuse the sound coming into the cabin.
Open the front door, you can see the fender gap inside that is the plastic wheel well guide. The noise only need to travel through plastic wheel well guide to door's rubber seal and enter the interior. That's the most cost effective way.
That isn't sound deadening material. Its damping tiles. They work by adding mass, which changes the resonant frequency of the metal its adhered to. They make things quieter by preventing the metal from vibrating in response to sound. To accomplish this it must become part of the material. To become part of its mass. This is reason for the waffle pattern. Rolling pattern flat helps assure that its fully bonded across its entire contact area. No bubbles. So the material added to the plastic fender liner isn't doing much. Its the material you added to metal structure that is making the difference. Interestingly, you only need about 25% coverage to change resonant frequency enough to damp vibes. Diminishing returns. Adding more than that does very little if anything. Divide each area to be damped into virtual squares. Cut a piece 25% size of square, apply to center. So a large rectangular area, like a beam, would become a series of squares, with a piece in center. A series of square dots applied to rectangle. There are other materials that do a better job of actually blocking sound waves. Automotive 3M thinsulate for one. This should be applied at full coverage on top of the damping tiles. This would ve ideal material to apply to plastic liner, instead of heavy damping tiles. You could have achieved superior results and added much less weight with the right materials used the right way.
While I generally agree, some of these very bare bones basic cars benefit from a bit more damping. Specially ones with very large panels near speakers that will visibly vibrate even at only moderate volumes. I have one such car (Yaris hatchback). I had to go with about 40% coverage due to the huge number of flat and resonate surfaces. You are spot on about the Thinsulate from 3M however. You can go crazy with this stuff and add next to no weight. It's insanely costly but the best product you can use. A close second is what I ended up going with, Resonix Fibermat. I used it on my fender liners, firewall and doors with great success.
@@juqual78I'm thinking of buying some fibermat. For the wheel wells, would you recommend the half inch or the inch? (I think the sizes used to be called 25 and 45, but the product lineup has changed)
Deadening and damping are two terms for the same thing--reducing resonance. I think you meant to point out the difference between sound absorption and damping. Absorption materials work by adding mass. High density materials absorb the vibrational energy for sound and convert it to heat. Damping materials work by increasing rigidity via a shear force to the surface that resists vibrations.
My Honda newish CRV has an ambient noise cancelation system from factory it plays through car speakers have no clue how it works but It does not really work, so I am going to try this when the weather warms up.
CLD mat only reduces resonance and lowers resonant frequency, it doesn't technically directly block or attenuate the sound. For that, you want closed cell foam as a decoupling layer, followed by mass loaded vinyl or some kind of fiberglass product or process in order to block and disperse the road and wind noise. Look on car audiophile forms like DIYmobile-audio for more info.
You should now put some closed cell foam over the sound deadener. Also the Amazon basic sound deadener is also butyl based not asphalt. I used that plus some closed cell foam in the trunk. It made a big difference.
the CANOPUS sheet makes the plastic heavier, and therefore vibrates less. Over the protection with the CANPUS sheet you should place a sound-absorbing material, foam or rubber (fireproof)
the dynomat material in this video is targeted more towards resonance aka stopping metal from vibrating. if you want to absorb noise you need a close cell foam. this material is best used on large flat sections of metal such as your doors and roof
Been contemplating doing this on my civic, I already did the entire trunk area and all four doors including under the back seat but still get noise up front. This looks like a good easy addition, nice job. Next I believe some window tint should help as well with any exterior noise if you don't have double pane windows.
putting sound damper material on the inside of the doors ( behind the " door card " panel ) , under the carpet ( floor boards ) , under the trunk liner ( cargo / trunk area ) and roof ( under the liner ) will help with road noise
My Lancia has special wheel arch liners (some textile overlay) to kill road noise and it works very well (and not much heavier than plain plastic liners).
Might want to add them to the insides of your fenders and quarter panels. Those parts are much more resonant than structural parts of the vehicle such as the frame.
Tip: If you don't own a jack stand as a safeguard, put a wheel under the car (side). It's infinitely better than nothing. If you're afraid of scratching your rims, add a piece of cardboard on top.
Well here's the thing. This is only gonna affect noise up until about 40mph and my 2024 Kia Soul is pretty quiet up until then and in fact isn't bad after that. The noise that starts to dominate above that speed though is wind. So I don't care what it is you're driving once you get above 70 mph things are gonna be noisier and especially on undivided roads when oncoming vehicles pass you. Another thing. If you have a dashcam that records audio its gonna pick up a LOT of road noise at any speed. And, BTW EVERY vehicle needs a dashcam.
When I studied electronics, which included sound propagation, I learnt the ear hears logarithmically; and it was Alexander Graham Bell (yes, the telephone guy) who documented this phenomenon. That's why sound is measured in deci- *bels.* It takes 3 dB to reduce audible sound by 50%. I think a 3 dB reduction should be the minimum to make any modification worthwhile.
Could have gotten there if he had used a fiber type of material to absorb sound, or something with mass like mass loaded vinyl to actually block some sound, after putting down the deadener. Remember this is just deadener. It's vital to stop resonance that objects create, because that can transfer or even add sound. It doesn't block sound on it's own however. You need mass or a good absorber to quiet things up.
I did it to my 2013 fiat 500, all over the whole car, from inside to outside all fender wells, inside doors, under hood, trunk lid.... as long as I can see metal with out sound damper, I cover it, total about 60 lbs has added into the car, I can not say it is quiet as a S class benz, but at least it is way better than before, at least when we talk, we don't have to shout at each other when driving on freeway with windows closed.
Did you perceive a difference in the tone of the noise aside from the magnitude? Absorption material will enhance your result where you added the constrained layer damping material. I'd expect less vibration and resonance from the material you added. A closed cell foam (hydrophobic) with adhesive backing applied through the wheel arch as fully as possible will make more difference in blocking the noise transmission - particularly with a mass loaded layer separated from the arch metal (dynaliner for example). This can be done from inside the vehicle and enhanced by layers under the external arch lining.
Generally heavier cars of higher class will be quieter because there's just more everything to them. If you spec a new car and there's options for extra insulation tho - take it.
The resonant frequency would be lowered by the added acoustic mass so if you checked the recording on a spectrum analyzer you might find the pitch of the noise was lowered which makes it subjectively less intrusive/unpleasant.
I wouldn't worry about gas mileage too much, especially if you have some long commute and you're trying to make it more pleasant. The lion's share of MPG is in the size of the engine, plus the transmission gearing, and thus how fast the engine needs to be spinning to hold your speed. Next is air resistance. Your tires play a role (check your pressures), and your own driving is probably the biggest MPG variable. Weight matters, but you'd need to add 500 pounds or so before you start seeing clear MPG effects. Another dozen pounds of sound deadening just won't matter.
The suspension can also transmit road noises to the chassis of the car - I changed mine to an aftermarket one which did not have the same type of elastomer dampening on it's support on the frame, the road noise became much louder
"use a sound spectrum analyser to better see if any frequencies of noise have disappeared instead of using a standard db sound meter" - this is what i read on other videos. not sure the validity of it. 😊
Some years ago I tried this on my Renault Megane 1.5 dci. I put sounddeadning anywhere, butyl . The result wasn‘t bad, but Inwouldn‘t do it again. It was a lot of work and it isn‘ t cheap.
The Amazon stuff actually reduced road noise by 15 decibels. I just watch a video in which a guy showed testing results from all the leading noise reduction manufacturers.
You've used that aluminum butyl sheet in the wrong place. That material for metal surfaces, to prevent them from resonating. Sandwich or foam materials for acoustic isolation, those will be more appropriate for plastic parts.
If your goal is to reduce road noise and quiet the interior you want a combination of sound deadening and sound insulation. Sound deadener does not provide sound insulation.
Try noice cancellin with amplifier. Mic or speaker (as a mic) connected to car floor (cone pointing floor) and conneted to amplifier. Subwoofer and speakers from that with opposite phase and you can adjust volume with speaker level adjustment and adding more or less mass to mic cone.
thats a good idea, but how do you wire that? there is no mic input in most amplifiers... can you please give me more details or a link? thanks in advance!
My old tyres still looked good but made a loud drumming noise in motion. (My local garage boss said that make was now discontinued anyway) and the new set of budget tyres he recommended are so quiet now I could literally hear a clock tic ((if they still made them!)
That's right: You need sound deadening material in your doors, on the car floor AND up under what used to be called, the firewall as well as the tyre wells. Some cars just use that underlay lightweight material inside.
That's the first thing I thought of, as trapped water WILL cause rust. Very bad idea. Better to take the interior out and place damping materials inside the car. Yes, it's far more labour intensive (ask me how I know) but definitely worth the effort.
@@Zgurkogel agreed. It is better to paste it inside. Remove quarter panel trim and paste it. But, i have done long back. It doesn't makes huge difference.
I have a 2015 Civic and I agree. I never took the doors apart but from what I see they're just bare metal. I'm seriously considering adding some sound deadening material to them, it's a shame it's so expensive here in Brazil.
Probably could've put some under or over the existing deadening material. Im sure Honda engineers found the exact place that the most tire noise was coming from and added it there. Look at what they put into the Acuras, their luxury brand. Heck, you may actually be able to purchase the sound deadening materials from Honda/Acura.
The same product works extremely well on my washer and dryer. I find that the butyl rubber by dynamat works best and doesn’t stink. Adding it to the doors and floor made my vehicle stereo system sound much better.
@@Soho9111 you need double the watts for a +3db increase, but +3db isn't double the loudness perceived by humans! A sound being twice as loud as another sound is an extreme difference and not just +3db ...
a 0.2-0.3 db decrease is 50% less noise. thinking of doing this since i have some ceramic wool left over from another project and I like to over inflate my tires, i think it will help. maybe the only way to add weight as insulation and get better mpg as a result
This is an interesting hack. Retesting the thing should have been done without the kid to recreate the exact same conditions. An additional person can change the sound inside a car significantly. Especially when he is screaming xD Different tires will make a difference as well. Especially at slightly higher speeds like 160km/h-180km/h. You can also put it inside the doors, but be careful with the drainage holes.
I hope you used the exact same stretch of road and at the same time of day, and with a similar ambient air temperatures as each make a HUGE different to the sound generated by the road/tyre contact.
I had accord 2.2 diesel from 2004 and now I have petrol 2.4 from 2007 and I can say diesel were a lot quiet and comfortable... not sure why but looks like petrol models are made cheaper way
My wife's Honda Civic still uses these plastic wheel wells, my Toyota CHR on the other hand doesn't, I don't have any wheel wells, but metal is covered with some sort of epoxy like material which is hard.
Maybe you should work with a manufacturer and find/create a foam in a can like home insulation but obviously for autos. Much easier. Thanks for this great video.
I know exactly what you meant, and I would have said it too, so i promise this isn't a criticism or a negative comment or anything, but "let's see if we can hear a difference" is a really funny sentence😁😁😁
@@soundproofguide 😁 In the first Ghostbusters movie, when they're in the library, Dan Aykroyd says "Guys, listen, do you smell something?" So you're in extremely good company 😂 Also, meant to say this before, thanks for the video! It was entertaining and informative. Keep up the great work...
@craighambling That reminds me of my early days as radio announcer and news reader at a small station on Vancouver Island in the 80's. My mentor would listen to the tapes of my broadcasts to critique and assess my on air burbles. One day he said for me to drop the phrase, "Let's have a look at the weather" or "looking at the weather....". He pointed out it was Radio and not TV and we couldn't "look" at anything. I learned fast.
Maybe I’m just really good at guessing how a video will end but as soon as I heard there was a sound reducing sponsor, I knew the sound after installing would go down.
isnt it smarter to sound proof inside the car rather than outside where its exposed to the elements and can peel off after a long winter or hot summer?
I have a 2024 honda cr v and man are they loud, i'm gonna try this and also when the tires have to be replaced they make tires with inside foam to reduce road noise, i'm gonna try that too.
todays tip , when you take the wheel off the car to work , put it under the car , its the difference between having a bad day and ending all your days if the car falls.
I see people asking if this will affect gas mileage it really shouldn't this is ONLY around 10 pounds worth of deadening for what he just did there and I have done insane amounts of deadening to do 80+ pounds of sound deadening in the CR-V and it hasn't affect the mpg that much or is about the same which it is staying about the same mpg for city use as before.
I thought it was recommended by the manufacturer of the sound deadener that it was specifically only for use on the interior. How has the sound deadener applied to the exterior, wheel wells, etc held up?
Someone else may have already schooled you on this. But a larger jack is not really the best practice, they can fail too, it happened to me once. You should be using a jack stand Good video, I had not considered putting it in the inner wheel guard. I will be soon installing a full 3 stage sound deadening system in my 1981 Hilux 4wd that has a chev type v8, they are very minimal on factory deadening & the V8 does not help.
To quote Soundproof guy “ a difference of one, or two decibels”. Something to consider perhaps ? A skilled listener is supposed to be able to hear changes of 1dB or more. Less skilled listeners need more like 2 or 3 dB before they are sure there is a difference. (This is measuring source signal amplitude, by the way, not acoustic power.). Mind you there are other considerations here. If we hope it’s going to make a difference, are we more likely to think it does? Personally I’m not sure it’s worth the time and money……
@@JasonWW2000 I suppose it does. However, I suspect that most rate how ‘quiet’ a car is as an important aspect. Especially when choosing a new one, and they will take this into consideration, when watching reviews, and driving the cars in their ‘short’ list. I know I did. For those who have unfortunately ended up with a car that they wish was quieter will, perhaps having watched this video, be tempted to try lessening the sounds by sticking sound deadening material in the wheel arches etc. My observation was, that that the improvements might not be as effective as anticipated, if the facts I listed, are taken into consideration.
For some reason I just assumed that everybody watching this video is at a point where their vehicle has tire noise that is bothering them and they want to fix it. I don't understand the comments where people say it's not worth it. Then why are you here watching the video? Lol. I know people who spend hundreds and even thousands of dollars to make their vehicle quieter. I'm trying to keep my soundproofing budget under $1,000. The guy in the video is doing it super cheap and people are still saying it's not worth it. It cracks me up. 😂
@@Jestey6Also, keep in mind that the guy in the video is using a very basic SPL meter as opposed to an RTA which allows you to see all of the frequency range. He averaged a reduction of 2 dB, but we don't know at what frequency. At some frequencies there may be no change and at other frequencies there might be a big change. Maybe 3, 4 or even 5 dB. We don't really know because he isn't accurately measuring it.
Amused at the comment about Amazon Basics at 01:27 which is incorrect. It is butyl rubber, just as many of the products are on Amazon which I just received a small package of Canopus. I wouldn't be surprised if the Amazon Basic's is a contracted product from Canopus or another company as is the usual probable case. No different from Siless or Kilmat which isn't "stick n peel". Shall we have fun with the jack statement as we can see the one used alone has wheels without jack stands, as well as not even placing the tire underneath should it drop/fail the vehicle will be on it's rotor on the ground. lmao But do as you will, as the material used is a decoupler which can be used in combination closed cell foam as well. But go ahead and forget the door panels and cargo area's as well as every other large panel. Your tire selection will also effect the noise as they wear in some cases. How about the ceiling. lmao
I know exactly what you mean. There’s an intermittent rattle in my dashboard that I only hear with my hearing aids in! I can hear louder rattles either way but this one is subtle.
NEW VIDEO Soundproofing car doors BEFORE & AFTER Nov 2024 - th-cam.com/video/H3mZLDE0uzw/w-d-xo.html
There's another gadget that makes your car quieter as well. It fits right over her mouth. 😆
I agree. It was too dark to see on the after.
3 dB difference means there is a sound reduction of 50% of the old 100% that much already so thats good
The sound proofing material link doesn’t work
@@gggallon are you in the wrong place?
Putting it in the doors helps alot. I find it funny that people ask if the extra weight effects the mileage. Yet 70% of people in the U.S. are over weight more then this sound deadener. lol
And also speed to get nowhere.
-and drive around in big empty pick-up trucks or SUV's... @@bakgammon
ya, I guess losing weight of people onboard is easier to get less weight, lol
Haha, good point!
🤣
I'm a Honda technician, I drove a car that was missing the wheel well guard once, and couldn't believe how loud the road noise was! That's what gave me the idea to insulate the wheel well liner. Also, anyone who has worked on a honda knows how thin their wheel well liners are.
Agreed!
You should see how crappy the liners are on other cars if you think Hondas are thin.
Great, do you think its better to apply on the liner or the metal arch area above the liner.
@@aakudev depends on how long do you want the liner to last.
I have a 2012 accord . And factory has installed a very very small patch of sound deadening to the rear wheel wells
20mm foam or fleece in a very thin polyethylene film (plastic bag material) will be most beneficial, applied to rear surface of wheel arch liner. 20mm is minimum for absorbing tire tread peak frequencies which are usually around 800-1200Hz, but can only be used if there is room for it, as you don’t want to push liner into wheel travel envelope. Also road noise best measured only up to around 30mph, above that wind noise starts to become predominant. Plastic film is to stop the absorber
becoming filled with dirt when wet, reducing absorption.
Sound deadener or damper pads are best applied to the body in flat areas. I did vehicle NVH for many years in a previous life. Hope this helps.
Thanks!! Yes it helps a lot! 😊
Good info, but I think it’s debatable where wind noise takes over - probably very vehicle dependent.
@@ScottoGrotto Yes you could definitely be right. As I said at the nd of the video, you might not see much difference with a luxury car but with a cheaper compact car, you'll have a better chance in being happy with your time and effort in installing this stuff. It's not expensive, just time consuming. Thanks for the feedback 😊
Would it be worth doing that to my 2011 BMW 328i, or does it probably have sufficient sound damping on the wheel wells?
Also would it help to reduce cabin noise by putting a thin layer of butyl under the floor mats ?
Thank you
@@Nightjar726 i don't think anyone has a catalog of cars stating whether they have insulation or not in certain spots. you'll have to pick up a screw driver and find out.
Keep in mind the logarithmic scale of the decibel measuremnent system.
A noise reduction of "only" 3 decibel is equivalent to a reduction of 50% of the sound intensity.
A noise reduction of "only" 2 decibels in your case is equivalent to approximately 33% reduction of the noise intensity. It's like having 2 radios broadcasting white noise instead of 3.
So really it makes a nice difference, and for only a couple of dollars too, it sure makes it worth it
This is Bingo Correct.
THANKS! I NEEDED CONTEXT CUZ I HAD NO IDEA IF THIS WAS NEGLIGIBLE AMOUNT! (not sarcasm, btw).
@@jpadamada It must be noisy in your car if your are SHOUTING !
You are sorta close to right. (I’m being generous). About 10db increase (or decrease) is necessary for PERCEIVED doubling (or halving) of sound “volume.” Some (few adults) can hear a 3db change. Most people won’t notice a 2db change. Because of the logarithmic nature of audio intensity it’s very complicated. There was nothing scientific about this video.
@@carpballet Thank you!
I have successfully removed a LOT of drone noise and NVH (noise, vibration and harshness) from my car after doing four things that made a big difference. (And I had like everyone else started off by trying to get things quiet using butyl mats/dynamat etc. I realised that that had a very limited effect and beginners usually end up sticking down way too much of the stuff and later regret it because you start thinking how much you’ve weighed the car down by. And a year or three down the line you end up taking two thirds of it back out - or trying to). Here in England I run a 2011 Ford Mondeo (Fusion) estate/station wagon. MY FOUR BIG TIPS for INSTANTLY reducing noise (REMEMBER - you are NOT going to get your sub-$25thousand dollar car to hush like a Bentley. BUT - you can get a LONG way towards it.) NUMBER ONE - REPLACE YOUR TYRES. If you want quiet, you need to LIFT the car further away from the ground and have less tyre in contact with the ground. So run NARROWER tyres with a TALLER SIDE WALL and if you can a SMALLER RIM SIZE. I replaced my 215 55 R17 tyres with 205 65 R16 tyres on replaced 16 inch rims. This dramatically reduced the rolling drone of the tyres on the road and gave a softer ride because the taller side wall raised the car further above the ground as well as reducing the contact with the ground. Yes you will get less of a sporty ride but I’m not interested in a sporty ride. NUMBER TWO - INSERT SURGICAL TUBING into all your door seals. You need to improve resistance to outside sounds coming in. Adding surgical tubing into all your door seals makes them nice and snug. Don’t go TOO tight though - get the right tube width - or else you won’t be able to shut the doors and you’ll feel real dumb. NUMBER THREE - Buy cheap ‘RECON FOAM’ cut it up into small cubes and shove it compacted in all the empty cavities under the trim around the console, footwells and glove compartment. You wouldn’t believe how many just open holes there are in that area doing nothing but causing sound from the engine and up from the ground to reverberate around. Foam (NEVER USE SPRAY FOAM - it will enter places you really don’t want it to get and you will never get it out in the event of a repair requirement) dampens all that NVH and contributes to the multi-pronged solution we are going for. You need to do a LOT of things to add up to removing those decibels. NUMBER FOUR - Go to the back of the car. On most cars under the rear bumper on the left or right corner area hidden away you will find a one-way ventilation flap on each side of the car. These are interior pressure flaps that allow air to escape from the car when the doors are closed and to allow ‘used’ air to escape from the cabin as new air enters from the front air vents. BUT they usually are located behind a very large cavity that sits adjacent to the rear wheel arches. In some cars you can reach into this large empty cavity through the back hole at the rear of the small felt door/closet you find in the left or right wall of the boot/trunk - the little hidden hole you might put an emergency traffic cone of yellow jacket in for example. I discovered one of these cavities causes a LOT of droning noise. The noise from the rear wheel comes straight through them, reverberates and comes out through the rear air escape vent. FILL THAT CAVITY UP! DOn’t fill both - you need one to maintain the ability to release the cabin air pressure remember - and often the fuel fill area prevents access to one of the cavities depending on if you have a left or right hand drive. But if you can get access to one side - fill it up tight with old rags, recon foam, old pcarpet that can be scrunched up - you want as much as possible to remove cavity space that creates reverb. Use anything not too heavy but DENSE. So recon foam, being more dense, is a lot better at dampening and muffling drone that say bubble wrap. Pack it in tight - and there’s room for a lot of foam and rags in there. This for me REMOVED 80% of the heavy drone in the back of the car - particularly on long highway journeys. NUMBER FOUR POINT ONE (!) Not essential but this improved my car dramatically - If your car is one of those that tilts down slightly towards the front end (to allow for the backend to dip slightly and the car to even out when the trunk is fully loaded) buy a pair of polyurethane lifting spacers to sit at the top of your front struts. Your garage can fit them for about $250. They again move the from end higher off the ground, away from the noise of the road. So coupled with the tyres we’re really changing how close we are to the noise of the road. Plus they make the car sit more evenly and look a lot better. These are my main tips for really getting to a quieter, pleasant drive. And they have really worked for me. I wish you all the best with your own particular car - every one has its quirks and every one will have slightly different solutions. But persevere and you can get a nice result.
Nice
That was a great reply with better ideas than the video. Thanks a lot!
Thanks (Some paragraph spacing would be really helpful.)
You can blow out window seals if you cover the air dump shutter.
Nice
One safety tip: If you don't want to use or invest in proper lift stands, you can slide them under the frame (close to jack) as a safety measure. If the car falls off the jack, or the jack fails, it will fall onto the inflated tire or rim before crushing you. You might end up with a ruined tire or damaged wheel, but you should be fine. Plus, as the tire is rather wide, it will allow for a sideways slip (to some extent), not just up and down. As I have lift stands, this is something I always do when changing a tire roadside.
Stands are a must, a friend was killed when his jack failed. Hydraulic jacks are actually more dangerous than the the OEM jack as a hydraulic failure will cause it to collapse instantly. And the tire under the car is something I always do, even with stands......
@@ckm-mkc Any jack is better than the oem scissor jack. Even toyota/subaru says not to use them in the manual and they're known to commonly collapse (not fall, collapse).
"...or the jack fails, it will fall onto the inflated tire or rim before crushing you..." Very good and practical idea.
This is amazing. I bought a spray on type for my vehicle, but it works well. I spray all the inner wheel fenders like you, however I took it one step further and inside the vehicle, I took out the interior plastics and trims and sprayed all the bare metals and wheel fender bump that you see inside most suv's in the trunk area ( I have a 4runner). Suv's generally produces the most road noise from that area of the trunk and I spray every part of it and the noise is NOTICEABLY gone now. This is the coolest hack ever to achieving a quieter vehicle !!!
whats the spray called
@@ryansaly7539 DEI boom mat. I got it from Amazon.
You sure it's not the placebo effect? You should have measured the sound before and after with a sound meter.
Rubberized undercoat @@ryansaly7539
That’s a significant reduction in decibels for one area of treatment!
Quieter tires of course help here too.
I switched to Michelin pilot 4 A/S, and my 2002 WRX Wagon became a lot friendlier on noise!
I did the whole back of the car treatment up to the front seats to quiet the interior from my aftermarket axle back muffler :)
I’ve been meaning to get around to the front of the interior for awhile…
Looks like a good product you found.
I used a butyl damping layer with closed cell foam adhered to the top.
Layered up the butyl till it passed the rap test in an area. Then applied the foam layer.
Thanks for sharing your experiences, cool videos!
The human ear can just about perceive a 1dB change, so 2dB is going to be pretty insignificant. Certainly not worth going to all that trouble for 2dB. Changing the tyres to a quieter tyre will have more of an effect on Road/Tyre noise, all be it a more expensive solution.
@@grahamtricker4103 Whether or not it's worth reducing the noise level 2 DB is going to be dependent on the person. You may not think it's worth it, but I do.
how can you even start to compare what you did with $20 noise reduction? Are you well? Maybe you can just buy a Mercedes instead of a set of tires?
@@Ludak021Scotto didn't say anything related to a $20 noise reduction. I think you're a little mixed up. He simply sharing his experience in reducing noise for his vehicle.
Great video, but Jesus Christ man, use jack stands when working under a vehicle! Never trust the jack alone!
Yes! Great point! Thanks
@@soundproofguidefor real man. What a bell-end.
What I came to the comments for. The floor jack doesn’t make enough difference from the stock jack
Must you curse the Lord? Have some respect and turn your filter on!
@@wurly164my friend passed away when his car fell on him. It's not a Karen comment. It comes from a place of concern.
I had a 2008 A3 Hatchback that I could always hear tire noise. I installed a waterproof sound deadener on the "cabin side" inside of the front fender liners. Made a noticeable difference. I was worried about trapping water (and causing rust) so I did not install on the metal body.
1. ALWAYS wear a seatbelt 2. ALWAYS use jack stands or at least put your wheel underneath as hydraulic jacks can collapse instantly with no warning!
In my Prius 3, I just changed my front tires labelled as 72 db to a set a quieter ones labelled as 68 db. This makes a big difference.
@@Cdbd4 wait. where do you find DB ratings on tires? ive never come across this before.
@@RafaelLopeztattoos Decibel ratings are available for tyres in Belgium where I live.
Probably the same in all EU countries
@Cdbd4 are these marked on the tires themselves? also i assume even of the same brand and model, they should also vary depending on size/spec?
@RafaelLopeztattoos at least in europe every new tire has a sticker with dry and wet traction, fuel economy and dB level.
If you're serious about it, I prefer taking the seats out, then take the carpet out. A lot of the noise is harmonics from the frame. Go to your local rubber supplier and get a few sheets of the 3mm (or 5mm- better) with sticky backing and apply to the whole floor area, the panel behind the back seat squab, and as far up the front firewall as you can manage. Then replace the carpet and seats. Result...amazing! It looks like a Vauxhall but it rides like a Jag.....nuff said....
I agree with you. Applying material to the floor and truck area is what I would try first.
Is rubber a cheaper AND better option than boom mat?
Another way to reduce noise: Make sure your tires are good and balanced. My tires are nearly worn out and I always notice how much quiter and smoother it is with new freshly balanced tires.
Very true! Also the type of tires will make a big difference! Thanks!
Tyres have a number of variables to manage that will influence Noise, Vibration.
1. Tread pattern and wear - noise magnitude and specific resonant frequencies for certain speeds - some are renowned for horrible noise.
2. Balance and air pressure - suspension bounce, and how well the tyre mates to the road dramatically impact vibration and thus introduced noise.
3. Tyre wall height. Lower profile = louder due to higher rigidity.
4. Tyre width. More tyre on the ground = more noise
5. Tyre compound. The hardness will alter the level of sound
When shopping to replace your tyres it is REALLY helpful to investigate the quietest tyres for your vehicle that also still meet your driving needs and expectations for climate, life of tyre etc.
Final tip, ask/investigate tyres different to your stock dimensions but still compatible (eg wider/narrower) because the more common a tyre is the cheaper it usually is. EG my car tyre costs $450 but if I buy the one 1.252cm wider it is for the most common vehicle in my country and only $200 for the same model.... economies of scale and competition at work :).
A good way to manage noise from tread wear is criss-cross-rotation instead of straight forward-to-back rotation. On all-season, winter, and light truck tires especially, tires develop a sawtooth directional wear pattern on the tread lugs. Moving this tire to the other side of the vehicle smooths this out as it starts wearing in the opposite direction. Non-drive tires experience greater sawtooth wear as they don't experience acceleration forces to counter the wear from braking and just being dragged along.
@@waffle911 interesting, might try this.
although my biggest enemy has consistently been punctures😂
ive gotten 3 in 1 winter season. didnt realize till i was already switching to summer setup.
Great video and good point about the jack except that you are trusting your life to hydraulic seals ! It was drilled into me as a young lad never trust your life to hydraulic pressure only . I would recommend the addition of some sort of jack stand as the safest, most stable support .
If you have a spare tire, lay it flat under the area next your work space. A little added precaution.
Thanks for taking this on! I am a SQ sound listener and have done my whole car except for the wheel wells and the 20 Camry with the Panoramic sunroof. I will do the wells to add that extra from these noisy Mississippi roads! Semper Fi and Can Do
Are the panoramic roof models a lot nosier as standard?
@@philtucker1224 very noisy with blind open and some damping with it closed!
@@Chahtawarrior31 ok yes, my last one (Peugeot) was the fixed type, non opening..
If you use this stuff try putting it in places that are flexible plastic stuff like door pockets, dash and center panel, door panels in the interior etc, you can hide it quite easily by tucking it under or in these areas, makes a big difference and it doesnt take much to dampen the sound a bit. A problem with putting this in the wheel wells is these areas need dissasembly to maintain the car for instance some lights and evap equipment requires the liners be removed to replace bulbs or parts. if you can avoid covering up the fasteners its ok.
Find out where to and NOT TO add sound deadening material in your vehicle for BEST Results! Full video link -
th-cam.com/video/mLip607dQM0/w-d-xo.html
What about those strips or rings of expanded foam, which they have started putting inside the tires of electric vehicles? Have you tried those? Maybe an idea for another video?
Don't forget to insulate the upper strut mounting. Through the strut all road and wheel sound waves and vibrations go directly to the car body
@@hammereisen7493 you mean insulate it from the inside? i assume this is what you meant cause from the outside, thatll just have a way for ice/snow/mud to stick to and could help corrode the car faster.
High quality tires also make a huge difference. I put new tires on my car a little over a year ago and now when I'm cruising on the highway at 75mph all I hear is the sound of the wind rushing over the body.
I stripped the interior of my Honda Pilot and used Dynamat and sound deadening foam throughout. It only decreased road noise a little bit. The upside was that the sound system sounded a lot better and the crappy subwoofer actually became noticeable. Anyways, putting sound deadening material in the wheel well should have been my first attempt as that's where most of the noise comes from. Don't know why Honda has never addressed their issue of excessive road noise from the tires.
Spray on sound deadening also works and would be easier to apply. Though it might be slightly more expensive.
Exactly 🙌🏻😊
Thanks for the tips. It is an easy modification to make. I tried this on two of my cars and it made a noticeable difference. I used some Noico sound deadener mats on the rear portion of the plastic fender liner and used spray on sound deadener on the front portion. (Reverse for the rear wheel wells) for a 2db reduction . It was a great start. I may purchase another Noico kit and try some other areas. The main reason I used so little on the liners was that I only had a few pieces left of a small 10 sq ft kit, and the rest was used on both hoods. Seeing the proof, I wish I purchased a larger kit to continue in the cabins.
Thanks for sharing! For the little money and a couple of hours of your time, it’s definitely worth doing. I also find that it’s not only quieter but the tone of the noise is much more tolerable.
Tires, TIRES make a BIG Difference. The rubber and tread design makes a Difference. The rubber is Harder today than it was years ago. The shape and size of tires also. Low profile, wide tires make more noise. Most of the noise comes from the trunk as the front engine bay on the fire wall has insulation on it already. I used an old fabric trunk matt and put it in my cargo area of my old 2010 Ford Escape and it made a (slight) difference. Taking the inside rear wheel well covers off and putting what you did on that area will make a (HUGE DIFFERENCE) as were the spare tire goes too.
Pro tip, buy a pack of those fragile plastic wheel well clips before you start this type project
You noticed that too? 😁 Yep. Imagine going through the effort to jack the car, remove the tire, breaking off a clip, then wondering how you'd get the well plastic firmly and safely back into place so you can use the car.
or you just can not be loser who cant do stuff and breakes stuff...dont break and wont be needed :)
@@SayWhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaat you might be pretty good with working on 20 yr old econoboxes because how brittle those things get especially in places that get to -20c temps around the rustbelt areas
The metal ones work for this one and are more effective. The plastic ones would still work but have higher chances of breaking a clip. Know from experience (today)
If you're not using a jack stand, the jack that comes with your vehicle is going to be more stable and reliable than a hydraulic will. Hydraulic jacks are meant to put cars on jack stands. They are not meant to hold the car while you're working underneath.
Obviously, supporting a vehicle by any method requires that you have the wheels at the other end locked, like with the parking brake or with wheel chocks.
I use to make my work car a little quieter by laying black towels under and over the rear floor mats heavy quilts in the trunk. Was easy and didn't cost much. Now I'm retired and I need the space for my family. It worked.
Dang, i would do this but i only got white towels :(
Mass panels aren't what you use there. Dynamat and the like are used to change the resonance frequency of the panels. You want to fill the space of the fender that precedes the door edge with something to absorb/diffuse the sound coming into the cabin.
You could spray rubberized undercoating on the side of the fender well liner where you put the sound deadening material. Quick, easy, cheap.
Yeah, helps keep the rust in
Open the front door, you can see the fender gap inside that is the plastic wheel well guide. The noise only need to travel through plastic wheel well guide to door's rubber seal and enter the interior. That's the most cost effective way.
6:40 that "be quiet" was so uncalled for😂 little man was just saying hi😂😂😂
That isn't sound deadening material. Its damping tiles. They work by adding mass, which changes the resonant frequency of the metal its adhered to.
They make things quieter by preventing the metal from vibrating in response to sound.
To accomplish this it must become part of the material. To become part of its mass. This is reason for the waffle pattern. Rolling pattern flat helps assure that its fully bonded across its entire contact area. No bubbles.
So the material added to the plastic fender liner isn't doing much. Its the material you added to metal structure that is making the difference.
Interestingly, you only need about 25% coverage to change resonant frequency enough to damp vibes. Diminishing returns. Adding more than that does very little if anything.
Divide each area to be damped into virtual squares. Cut a piece 25% size of square, apply to center. So a large rectangular area, like a beam, would become a series of squares, with a piece in center. A series of square dots applied to rectangle.
There are other materials that do a better job of actually blocking sound waves. Automotive 3M thinsulate for one. This should be applied at full coverage on top of the damping tiles. This would ve ideal material to apply to plastic liner, instead of heavy damping tiles.
You could have achieved superior results and added much less weight with the right materials used the right way.
While I generally agree, some of these very bare bones basic cars benefit from a bit more damping.
Specially ones with very large panels near speakers that will visibly vibrate even at only moderate volumes. I have one such car (Yaris hatchback). I had to go with about 40% coverage due to the huge number of flat and resonate surfaces.
You are spot on about the Thinsulate from 3M however. You can go crazy with this stuff and add next to no weight. It's insanely costly but the best product you can use.
A close second is what I ended up going with, Resonix Fibermat. I used it on my fender liners, firewall and doors with great success.
took quite a bit to find this comment. I always smile when I see the entire surface covered in this reso-cutting material.
@@juqual78I'm thinking of buying some fibermat. For the wheel wells, would you recommend the half inch or the inch? (I think the sizes used to be called 25 and 45, but the product lineup has changed)
Deadening and damping are two terms for the same thing--reducing resonance. I think you meant to point out the difference between sound absorption and damping. Absorption materials work by adding mass. High density materials absorb the vibrational energy for sound and convert it to heat. Damping materials work by increasing rigidity via a shear force to the surface that resists vibrations.
My Honda newish CRV has an ambient noise cancelation system from factory it plays through car speakers have no clue how it works but It does not really work, so I am going to try this when the weather warms up.
CLD mat only reduces resonance and lowers resonant frequency, it doesn't technically directly block or attenuate the sound. For that, you want closed cell foam as a decoupling layer, followed by mass loaded vinyl or some kind of fiberglass product or process in order to block and disperse the road and wind noise. Look on car audiophile forms like DIYmobile-audio for more info.
Added almost two boxes of 80mil to a Tahoe. My gas mileage sucks anyways. Totally changed the acoustics. Instant effect👍
You should now put some closed cell foam over the sound deadener. Also the Amazon basic sound deadener is also butyl based not asphalt. I used that plus some closed cell foam in the trunk. It made a big difference.
Good idea!
the CANOPUS sheet makes the plastic heavier, and therefore vibrates less. Over the protection with the CANPUS sheet you should place a sound-absorbing material, foam or rubber (fireproof)
the dynomat material in this video is targeted more towards resonance aka stopping metal from vibrating. if you want to absorb noise you need a close cell foam. this material is best used on large flat sections of metal such as your doors and roof
Been contemplating doing this on my civic, I already did the entire trunk area and all four doors including under the back seat but still get noise up front. This looks like a good easy addition, nice job. Next I believe some window tint should help as well with any exterior noise if you don't have double pane windows.
putting sound damper material on the inside of the doors ( behind the " door card " panel ) , under the carpet ( floor boards ) , under the trunk liner ( cargo / trunk area ) and roof ( under the liner ) will help with road noise
I wonder if carefully spraying truck bed liner on the non-insulated spaces would work? It might be easier to do.
You're very talented! Driving, holding cell phone/camera and holding the meter!!
I was also eating a burger but couldn’t see that in the clip.
@@soundproofguide😂
@@soundproofguide
And not wearing seatbelt 😅
My Lancia has special wheel arch liners (some textile overlay) to kill road noise and it works very well (and not much heavier than plain plastic liners).
Might want to add them to the insides of your fenders and quarter panels. Those parts are much more resonant than structural parts of the vehicle such as the frame.
Tip: If you don't own a jack stand as a safeguard, put a wheel under the car (side). It's infinitely better than nothing. If you're afraid of scratching your rims, add a piece of cardboard on top.
Well here's the thing. This is only gonna affect noise up until about 40mph and my 2024 Kia Soul is pretty quiet up until then and in fact isn't bad after that. The noise that starts to dominate above that speed though is wind. So I don't care what it is you're driving once you get above 70 mph things are gonna be noisier and especially on undivided roads when oncoming vehicles pass you. Another thing. If you have a dashcam that records audio its gonna pick up a LOT of road noise at any speed. And, BTW EVERY vehicle needs a dashcam.
I always recommend better quality tires first before changing anything
Agreed!
Would have to reduce by 3-4 db to be worth it in my mind.
When I studied electronics, which included sound propagation, I learnt the ear hears logarithmically; and it was Alexander Graham Bell (yes, the telephone guy) who documented this phenomenon. That's why sound is measured in deci- *bels.*
It takes 3 dB to reduce audible sound by 50%.
I think a 3 dB reduction should be the minimum to make any modification worthwhile.
Could have gotten there if he had used a fiber type of material to absorb sound, or something with mass like mass loaded vinyl to actually block some sound, after putting down the deadener.
Remember this is just deadener. It's vital to stop resonance that objects create, because that can transfer or even add sound. It doesn't block sound on it's own however. You need mass or a good absorber to quiet things up.
A 3 db change is a doubling or 50% reduction in sound level. Also, a friend put new tires on her CRV it made a reduction in road noise. Cheers
I did it to my 2013 fiat 500, all over the whole car, from inside to outside all fender wells, inside doors, under hood, trunk lid.... as long as I can see metal with out sound damper, I cover it, total about 60 lbs has added into the car, I can not say it is quiet as a S class benz, but at least it is way better than before, at least when we talk, we don't have to shout at each other when driving on freeway with windows closed.
Did you perceive a difference in the tone of the noise aside from the magnitude?
Absorption material will enhance your result where you added the constrained layer damping material.
I'd expect less vibration and resonance from the material you added. A closed cell foam (hydrophobic) with adhesive backing applied through the wheel arch as fully as possible will make more difference in blocking the noise transmission - particularly with a mass loaded layer separated from the arch metal (dynaliner for example). This can be done from inside the vehicle and enhanced by layers under the external arch lining.
Yes I did. Especially when it rains. It still
Makes noise but it’s more deaden and less annoying.
Could be very effective on my Ford Ranger with huge offroad tires I guess. Those tires are noisy on road.
Generally heavier cars of higher class will be quieter because there's just more everything to them. If you spec a new car and there's options for extra insulation tho - take it.
The resonant frequency would be lowered by the added acoustic mass so if you checked the recording on a spectrum analyzer you might find the pitch of the noise was lowered which makes it subjectively less intrusive/unpleasant.
I wouldn't worry about gas mileage too much, especially if you have some long commute and you're trying to make it more pleasant. The lion's share of MPG is in the size of the engine, plus the transmission gearing, and thus how fast the engine needs to be spinning to hold your speed. Next is air resistance. Your tires play a role (check your pressures), and your own driving is probably the biggest MPG variable. Weight matters, but you'd need to add 500 pounds or so before you start seeing clear MPG effects. Another dozen pounds of sound deadening just won't matter.
The suspension can also transmit road noises to the chassis of the car - I changed mine to an aftermarket one which did not have the same type of elastomer dampening on it's support on the frame, the road noise became much louder
"use a sound spectrum analyser to better see if any frequencies of noise have disappeared instead of using a standard db sound meter" - this is what i read on other videos. not sure the validity of it. 😊
Some years ago I tried this on my Renault Megane 1.5 dci. I put sounddeadning anywhere, butyl . The result wasn‘t bad, but Inwouldn‘t do it again. It was a lot of work and it isn‘ t cheap.
The Amazon stuff actually reduced road noise by 15 decibels. I just watch a video in which a guy showed testing results from all the leading noise reduction manufacturers.
You've used that aluminum butyl sheet in the wrong place. That material for metal surfaces, to prevent them from resonating. Sandwich or foam materials for acoustic isolation, those will be more appropriate for plastic parts.
That seems like a lot of work for a difference that I doubt I could differentiate without a meter. Thanks.
Decibels are logarithmic and not linear. So a few digits is more significant than you might think
@@samuelseidel6148 Interesting. I wish you well.
you sound crazy right now
If your goal is to reduce road noise and quiet the interior you want a combination of sound deadening and sound insulation.
Sound deadener does not provide sound insulation.
Try noice cancellin with amplifier.
Mic or speaker (as a mic) connected to car floor (cone pointing floor) and conneted to amplifier. Subwoofer and speakers from that with opposite phase and you can adjust volume with speaker level adjustment and adding more or less mass to mic
cone.
thats a good idea, but how do you wire that? there is no mic input in most amplifiers... can you please give me more details or a link? thanks in advance!
My old tyres still looked good but made a loud drumming noise in motion. (My local garage boss said that make was now discontinued anyway) and the new set of budget tyres he recommended are so quiet now I could literally hear a clock tic ((if they still made them!)
That's right: You need sound deadening material in your doors, on the car floor AND up under what used to be called, the firewall as well as the tyre wells. Some cars just use that underlay lightweight material inside.
Dosent it cause rusting ? Water splashes, accumulated on the material edges ?
That's the first thing I thought of, as trapped water WILL cause rust. Very bad idea. Better to take the interior out and place damping materials inside the car. Yes, it's far more labour intensive (ask me how I know) but definitely worth the effort.
@@Zgurkogel agreed. It is better to paste it inside. Remove quarter panel trim and paste it. But, i have done long back. It doesn't makes huge difference.
I did this to my 370z front and rear wheel wells.. i got the road noise down to 80db fron 89db. I have no exhaust mods
A lot of your high-end luxury cars have a layer of carpet on the side closest to the tire that will also work quite well
My wife has a 2012 civic. Loudest car ever. My 89 bronco with mud tires is quieter. I’m 100% serious.
I have a 2015 Civic and I agree. I never took the doors apart but from what I see they're just bare metal. I'm seriously considering adding some sound deadening material to them, it's a shame it's so expensive here in Brazil.
Probably could've put some under or over the existing deadening material. Im sure Honda engineers found the exact place that the most tire noise was coming from and added it there. Look at what they put into the Acuras, their luxury brand. Heck, you may actually be able to purchase the sound deadening materials from Honda/Acura.
The same product works extremely well on my washer and dryer. I find that the butyl rubber by dynamat works best and doesn’t stink. Adding it to the doors and floor made my vehicle stereo system sound much better.
What most people do not know is that 3dB difference is double the amount of sound wether in minus or plus
+-10db is perceived as double the loudness/quietness, not 3
@@alfredo5189 no my friend it is +-3dB consider half/double the value
I have studied this for 5 years in Electrical Engineering school
@@Soho9111 you need double the watts for a +3db increase, but +3db isn't double the loudness perceived by humans! A sound being twice as loud as another sound is an extreme difference and not just +3db ...
a 0.2-0.3 db decrease is 50% less noise. thinking of doing this since i have some ceramic wool left over from another project and I like to over inflate my tires, i think it will help. maybe the only way to add weight as insulation and get better mpg as a result
Actually 3dB means 50% less noise
10log(0.5) = -3
0.2db is imperceptible by human ear
Was this installed on just the front wheel wells? Or the rear wheels also?
This is an interesting hack. Retesting the thing should have been done without the kid to recreate the exact same conditions. An additional person can change the sound inside a car significantly. Especially when he is screaming xD Different tires will make a difference as well. Especially at slightly higher speeds like 160km/h-180km/h. You can also put it inside the doors, but be careful with the drainage holes.
I hope you used the exact same stretch of road and at the same time of day, and with a similar ambient air temperatures as each make a HUGE different to the sound generated by the road/tyre contact.
Thanks for making the video short and sweet.
Hondas generally dont come with a ton a sound deadening material from the factory. Thats why one could buy the Acura version for a quieter ride.
I had accord 2.2 diesel from 2004 and now I have petrol 2.4 from 2007 and I can say diesel were a lot quiet and comfortable... not sure why but looks like petrol models are made cheaper way
My wife's Honda Civic still uses these plastic wheel wells, my Toyota CHR on the other hand doesn't, I don't have any wheel wells, but metal is covered with some sort of epoxy like material which is hard.
Would definitely add it to the insides of my doors. A lot of noise comes thru your door. Especially being they’re not solid.
need good tires that are balanced properly and make sure the suspension parts are in good condition as well.
Maybe you should work with a manufacturer and find/create a foam in a can like home insulation but obviously for autos. Much easier. Thanks for this great video.
I know exactly what you meant, and I would have said it too, so i promise this isn't a criticism or a negative comment or anything, but "let's see if we can hear a difference" is a really funny sentence😁😁😁
Haha Good point!
@@soundproofguide 😁
In the first Ghostbusters movie, when they're in the library, Dan Aykroyd says "Guys, listen, do you smell something?" So you're in extremely good company 😂
Also, meant to say this before, thanks for the video! It was entertaining and informative. Keep up the great work...
@craighambling That reminds me of my early days as radio announcer and news reader at a small station on Vancouver Island in the 80's. My mentor would listen to the tapes of my broadcasts to critique and assess my on air burbles. One day he said for me to drop the phrase, "Let's have a look at the weather" or "looking at the weather....". He pointed out it was Radio and not TV and we couldn't "look" at anything. I learned fast.
@@aloisius4188 😂😂😂 language is a funny, yet cruel, mistress!
Maybe I’m just really good at guessing how a video will end but as soon as I heard there was a sound reducing sponsor, I knew the sound after installing would go down.
LOL!
isnt it smarter to sound proof inside the car rather than outside where its exposed to the elements and can peel off after a long winter or hot summer?
I have a 2024 honda cr v and man are they loud, i'm gonna try this and also when the tires have to be replaced they make tires with inside foam to reduce road noise, i'm gonna try that too.
Amazon product actually has tested to be one of the best.
This is true. I was surprised at the test results.
todays tip , when you take the wheel off the car to work , put it under the car , its the difference between having a bad day and ending all your days if the car falls.
big différence for 3 db is like volume down 2time ❤
I see people asking if this will affect gas mileage it really shouldn't this is ONLY around 10 pounds worth of deadening for what he just did there and I have done insane amounts of deadening to do 80+ pounds of sound deadening in the CR-V and it hasn't affect the mpg that much or is about the same which it is staying about the same mpg for city use as before.
i was just looking for a before and after! i’m committed to this now lol
I thought it was recommended by the manufacturer of the sound deadener that it was specifically only for use on the interior. How has the sound deadener applied to the exterior, wheel wells, etc held up?
Someone else may have already schooled you on this. But a larger jack is not really the best practice, they can fail too, it happened to me once.
You should be using a jack stand
Good video, I had not considered putting it in the inner wheel guard.
I will be soon installing a full 3 stage sound deadening system in my 1981 Hilux 4wd that has a chev type v8, they are very minimal on factory deadening & the V8 does not help.
To quote Soundproof guy “ a difference of one, or two decibels”.
Something to consider perhaps ? A skilled listener is supposed to be able to hear changes of 1dB or more. Less skilled listeners need more like 2 or 3 dB before they are sure there is a difference. (This is measuring source signal amplitude, by the way, not acoustic power.). Mind you there are other considerations here. If we hope it’s going to make a difference, are we more likely to think it does? Personally I’m not sure it’s worth the time and money……
It really depends on how serious you are about wanting to make your vehicle quieter.
@@JasonWW2000 I suppose it does. However, I suspect that most rate how ‘quiet’ a car is as an important aspect. Especially when choosing a new one, and they will take this into consideration, when watching reviews, and driving the cars in their ‘short’ list. I know I did.
For those who have unfortunately ended up with a car that they wish was quieter will, perhaps having watched this video, be tempted to try lessening the sounds by sticking sound deadening material in the wheel arches etc.
My observation was, that that the improvements might not be as effective as anticipated, if the facts I listed, are taken into consideration.
For some reason I just assumed that everybody watching this video is at a point where their vehicle has tire noise that is bothering them and they want to fix it.
I don't understand the comments where people say it's not worth it. Then why are you here watching the video? Lol.
I know people who spend hundreds and even thousands of dollars to make their vehicle quieter. I'm trying to keep my soundproofing budget under $1,000. The guy in the video is doing it super cheap and people are still saying it's not worth it. It cracks me up. 😂
@@Jestey6Also, keep in mind that the guy in the video is using a very basic SPL meter as opposed to an RTA which allows you to see all of the frequency range. He averaged a reduction of 2 dB, but we don't know at what frequency. At some frequencies there may be no change and at other frequencies there might be a big change. Maybe 3, 4 or even 5 dB. We don't really know because he isn't accurately measuring it.
Always use axle stands if you're using a jack.
Coming to you soon as a $200 dealer option for your new car
Amused at the comment about Amazon Basics at 01:27 which is incorrect. It is butyl rubber, just as many of the products are on Amazon which I just received a small package of Canopus. I wouldn't be surprised if the Amazon Basic's is a contracted product from Canopus or another company as is the usual probable case. No different from Siless or Kilmat which isn't "stick n peel". Shall we have fun with the jack statement as we can see the one used alone has wheels without jack stands, as well as not even placing the tire underneath should it drop/fail the vehicle will be on it's rotor on the ground. lmao But do as you will, as the material used is a decoupler which can be used in combination closed cell foam as well. But go ahead and forget the door panels and cargo area's as well as every other large panel. Your tire selection will also effect the noise as they wear in some cases. How about the ceiling. lmao
Blessed are the deaf drivers and riders for they do not hear any noice except for the car’s vibration they feel.
I know exactly what you mean. There’s an intermittent rattle in my dashboard that I only hear with my hearing aids in! I can hear louder rattles either way but this one is subtle.
Good time to really clean up the wheel well. Then also spray some fluid film if you live in the rust belt.