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Do you plan on installing a subwoofer? If so, I think so!

Yeah, I found that out a two years later on the forums! I need to make an update soon

Appreciate the feedback! No doubt your solution would of been 1000x easier lol.

Yes, definitely a better option than what I did. Thanks for the advice

Thanks! I haven’t noticed a difference in road noise from the sound dampening. But the bass is very clean sounding without any rattles 😉. Now I get to be annoyed by the small creaking sounds from the passenger-side dash (near the tweeter grill). Got to fix that someday 😅

Thanks! Yeah add me on IG @nickyviloria I’m thinking about wrapping some black vinyl on the roof next. Saw one on the forums that looked nice

Ugh, fuck that door handle lol. Was a pain in the ass to put back on. If I remember correctly, there’s a tab that the door handle fits under to snap it in place.

Thanks! I can’t recall exactly how much I used. I bought 27 sqft of foam and had plenty left over. I would estimate about 20 sqft Good luck on your install!

Not sure why they can’t splice or tap into the existing speaker wire.

You’re welcome

resonixsoundsolutions.com/

Front speaker wiring harness are Metra 72-5602. Can get them from Amazon or Crutchfield. Unsure on the rear speaker wiring harness

@@LazyMex many thanks comrade.

For the inner door, I want to say around 3 sqft. Maybe another 2 sqft on the door card

I used the excess foam from the doors to make the speaker rings. From resonix

You probably could fit your arm inside without removing the entire window regulator but it’ll make the job harder. More effective to use large pieces of sound deadening rather than a bunch of smaller pieces too. If you got skinny arms, try it! May not get as much coverage as I did but really only need 50% or so with diminishing returns after that (from what I’ve heard online) I didn’t listen to the speakers before and after sound deadening to get a sense of the difference unfortunately. Doors are solid now even with the music blasting! I played a song that over emphasized the low mid bass region and my doors sounded like subwoofers lol. Lots of good mid bass. If you’re serious about good sounding music, definitely add sound deadening (and DSP 😉)

I have not. I know there’s a video somewhere of someone pulling out the air conditioning panel. There’s several clips holding it in place

Hahaha! Sounds like that person used some cheap stuff from Home Depot or something. The brand of CLD i used is called Resonix and can handle the heat just fine. I guess time will tell. I live in AZ by the way 😁😉. Made it thru my first summer already!! +110 deg temps. Maybe I’ll do an update vid and examine inside the doors. Thanks!

Lol someone else told me the same thing but I’ve heard others pronounce it that way too. They’re made in France so I’ll need to check how they say it 😅 oh well.. Thanks!!

@@LazyMex they probably say "Les So-cal" :-)

I cut the wires and soldered them together and then used heat shrink tubing.

Which wires did you cut

I bought a 3d printed plastic cubbyhole cube to attach the phone mount on. It was like $20 off Etsy. The phone mount in the video is this [Upgraded]VANMASS Car Phone... www.amazon.com/dp/B09CMV7YVJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share It worked fine but it does make a rattling noise if you don’t have your phone in it. I replaced it with a mount that has the magnet for my iPhone case. That was about $30 but I like it better.

Thank you! The fix82 was useful for tuning with my DSP since I only had 10 channels of eq to use. Good luck on your install!

Damn, sorry to hear that. I learned later how that door handle actually comes off and on.

Use a 2 part epoxy, sold at dollar tree, or any home center for 10x more. The plastic will be the weak link after you glue it back and it cures.

Thanks! I was initially using a 1/2” spacer but found that the speaker was vibrating on the door panel. I was able to push the speaker inside without the use of the spacer (should have done that in the first place 🤦‍♂️) so now it sounds great. Sorry, don’t know the part number.

@@LazyMex wow that's very impressive you were able to get that size speaker in there without a spacer! I love those k2's they sound beautiful, I had some flax in my f150 I loved as well. I wish they would have given us a little more room in these things lol

@@thagh0st809 I know! Thank god they fit because I was about to cut out the outer door panel to make them fit lol. I’ve also seen someone cut into that black panel piece not knowing it’s part of the window glass track 🫣

You should do a video on how you mounted your midbasses. I'm trying to figure out how you mounted them, I have massive spacer that are causing rattles and driving me crazy (1.5 spacer)

@@thagh0st809 I was able to mount my speakers without those spacers. They were also rattling my door panel.

Thanks. I don’t remember what that wiring was for. Maybe for the power door locks?

@@LazyMex thank you

I actually did have this issue with the driver side front door lock. I could lock it manually with the key and open it with the key fob but it wouldn’t lock with the key fob. I had it at the dealership for an unrelated problem and they must of needed access inside the door because the issue was resolved when I got it back. Good news is it must be how we reattached the door mechanism? My guess is there was too much slack in the cable when reinstalling it? Did the door handle mechanism sit firmly in place when reattaching it? I recall you had to fit it under a small tab first before snapping it back in. Sorry I couldn’t be much help. Let me know if you figure it out.

@@LazyMex Just went out to the truck and fixed it. Something to do with the smaller lever above the handle (I thought it was child lock). Anyway I pulled the small lever above the handle out and heard a snap (there was pressure on that lever). Now the door works and locks with the rest of the truck. I'm guessing that the little lever above the handle needs to be in a certain position when you reinstall the cables to the interior door panel. Thanks for your help. -Sam

@@samhazel8133 Nice work! Thanks for the tip! I do remember that lever was sitting slightly inward too. Makes sense it needs to be positioned correctly when reinstalling.

Not much room but others have installed that kicker sub back there. www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/kicker-hideaway-hs10-installed-behind-rear-seats.10723/

Thanks! I ran new wires to the tweeters from the amp. I had a hard time trying to run wires thru the door boot for the front speakers. So instead ran new wires from the amp to the factory harness and connected them to the the stock front speaker wires. Not a problem since I’m only pushing up to 75 rms to the speakers and didn’t need a thicker gauge wire. Rear speakers are running off the head unit. I also set the balance all the way forward to the front speakers so I can’t hear the rears in the driver seat. Also good idea so you don’t blow out your rear passengers’ ear drums at high volumes lol. Good luck on your install!

@@LazyMex thanks! Any things regret doing or would change since making the video?

@@jackletros8617 no regrets so far!! I may have been able to EQ with the DSP without the Fix82 and get similar results to save $400 but I’m okay having it. It made tuning much quicker though. I still would like to make a custom fiberglass box for that subwoofer either under the rear seats or behind it. Not a big issue since I rarely have rear passengers.

Thanks!! Super happy with how it sounds. Now I’m thinking of making a fiberglass subwoofer box to either fit under the rear seats or behind it. Not sure I can fit my 13.5” JL TW5 sub though lol

Thanks!

Oh yeah, forgot to record the before and after sound check in this video. You can find it on my front speaker install video at the beginning. Vapor cover went back on well enough. Seemed like a good seal after using the roller.

@@LazyMex thanks for the tutorial. I'm gonna try and give it a shot. Hopefully i don't f*ck it up.

@@jquiznos2283 take a picture of how the door handle is attached. That can be tricky re-attaching if it’s your first time. Good luck!

Thanks! I’m just an amateur who spent HOURS researching online. Be prepared to get frustrated and overwhelmed at times lol. I also have a whole new collection of tools now just to get the job done. Glad these videos might be helpful. If you’re aiming to make the cabin quieter (I think it’s pretty quite already but I’m upgrading from a 2001 Honda Civic lol) then you will want to use Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV). Expensive, heavy stuff and also need 100% coverage!! That’s going to be a lot of work. I’m out here in AZ. Don’t know anyone in Detroit area. Good luck with your Maverick and reach out to me if you have any questions.

@@LazyMex Man, if you were in Detroit, I'd def hire you to do some mods to my truck once I get it in November. Can I ask the easiest way to setup DSP on the Maverick? I don't know if I'll need to switch out the speakers so much, but since I use something called Sonarworks SoundID in my little home studio, and I love it, I'd love to have something similar setup on the Maverick now that I know this is possible. *Why in the world car companies don't just provide pre-RTA DSP'd vehicle sound systems is utterly beyond me, right? Just make it right from the get-go, or at least as best as it can be from the start, regardless of what package is installed. Thank you again for the generous sharing.

LOL the tweeters were embarrassing hard to get to. Added a few more scratches to the dash thanks to those panels. Also broke a clip on both sides. If I do ever place the tweeters in the sail panel, I’ll make a video on it. The hardest part will be getting the speaker wires thru the door boot.

Thanks. I did add some blackhole tiles inside the door later on to absorb some of the back waves. I may go back in after summer and add some HMF.

Swapping speakers takes like 10 mins. It’s the sound deadening part that’s time consuming! Probably a 3 hr job for the front doors. Man…idk. Maybe $200 in this summer heat. I think most shops charge $100-120/hr for labor.

Thanks! Out here in AZ. Not sure I ever wanna do this again lol

It's Foe-cal. It's French, you uncultured swine.

Thanks! The room is very limited behind the rear seats. I’ve only seen a few (10”?)subs back there with custom made boxes. My JL sub box would not fit back there.

Thanks for the info! Didn’t know about the screw behind the reflector. I did sound deaden the front doors. Check out my video on it. It’s some work to get the black plastic panel off since it’s actually part of the window regulator.

That’s right, used the foam to eliminate any rubbing noises between door panels. I’ve heard others had problems with rattling inside the door after installing better speakers. At the minimum, I would definitely recommend you treat the inner door card with sound deadening material. Thanks and good luck on your install!

@@LazyMex I’m looking at the Jbl club 605csq components from crutchfield (2 1/16” mounting depth). Is it safe to assume I’ll also need the adaptor rings you used?

@@brianjachim7537 I was actually able to squeeze my speakers in without using the spacers. Otherwise the speakers were hitting the door panel and making noise. You should be fine.

Running active crossover with a DSP

Thanks!

The amp has signal sensing for turning on. I connect the speaker wire from the head unit directly to amp. When the amp senses a signal from the head unit, it turns on. Otherwise, you’ll need a line out converter to send a remote in wire to amp. Like the LC2i

No sir

Bought both the CLD and CCF from resonixsoundsolutions.com/

Glad i could help lol. The first part of the video was showing how frustrating it can be when you don't know what you're doing. Hopefully it helps others do the job quicker.