I added chapters to this video because this video is so long. If you guys have questions check the chapters of the video and you may very well find your answer. Thanks for watching. Sound Deadening Products: Noico 80ml Butyl Rubber: amzn.to/3mUUVtr Noico 150ml Closed Cell Foam: amzn.to/3DKgIKZ Mass Loaded Vinyl: amzn.to/3lLBhAF Products and Tools I used to install the sound dampeners: Noico Roller: amzn.to/3mXq6nP Kneeling Pad: amzn.to/2Z2V85E Trim Removal Tools: amzn.to/3lKZLKs Clip Release Tool: amzn.to/3ANAWBA Scissors: amzn.to/3jqrlev Utility Knife: amzn.to/3pbau2L Degreaser: amzn.to/3lIB4Oy Vinyl Cement: amzn.to/2YYpx5g Foil Tape: amzn.to/3lIssHR My Amazon Store: www.amazon.com/shop/repairgeek Help support the channel, buy using my Amazon links As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases and your cost is exactly the same.
Does the butyl rubber also reduce heat from the tranny, and exhaust pipes running under the car ? if so how many degrees would you say it reduced ? thanks
@@HOTRODRICO the foam does more for heat than the rubber. This being a FWD car it doesn't have much for trans heat. With the entire interior covered in foam it does make a noticeable difference in the insulation.
This first and third layers are way more easier to install….if you use oven mitts and warm up pieces in a oven(low heat)to just enough to make them compliant….rub them into place with mitts ….try it you’ll never do it the hard way again…cheers
I am a retired Mercedes Benz technician. Here I am talking about only S class. Yes they engineered to be quite. Every inch of this car has extraordinary insulation including very heavy padded floor carpet. It is so heavy that flooded car carpets are impossible to remove by one person, even though it is divided in 4 sections. Your job is outstanding and very laborious. Once you get old ( 60s ) you won’t believe that was you, who can perform such a hard work. I enjoyed and appreciate your each minute of hard work. Thanks 🙏
@@zelowatch30 Not only that, the vibration of the engine itself is also a great deal. Sound dampening of the engine compartment too. And the quality of sound on such a luxury car is vital too, 30db of jazz music doesn’t sound the same as 30db of me scratching the blackboard with my finger nails. Small things such as the door thunk, exhaust note(Lexus tasked Yamaha music division to specifically tune the engine sound in the cabin for the LFA so it sounds like a ear porn), or even just a combination of wind and tire noise.
@@emielcors Sound deadening can help almost any car as long as you are willing to put in the work to get the required coverage. The less deadening there is from the factory the more you will benefit (in exchange for adding weight to older, lighter cars). One thing that will happen though is that if you greatly reduce road noise, a lot of other noise starts becoming apparent. A trim piece squeaking quietly that you couldn't hear over road noise may become very apparent. You can track down these friction points and put adhesive backed felt between the panels.
As a person who have disassembled totally sound proof cars and noisy buckets, i've never seen something like that in the video that people install. Quiet cars have two differences on the interior: 1) Thicker glass like BMW and Mercedes going with better weather seals on the doors 2) Triple as thick and heavy carpet with integrated foam pads compared to normal cars When you want to absorb sound waves you need volume and density in sound absorbing insulation eg dense foam pads, rock wool etc, if you just make the sheet metal heavier and add mass with the things in the video what you do is just absorb the resonance of the metal so it usually tunes to lower frequencies and the best thing it does is get rid of rattling. It might seem like it reduces noise but only because the chassis now tunes to a narrower frequency spectrum, and in fact those material are sound reflecting not sound ABSORBING, meaning any sound produced will be reflected till it fades out. If you are looking to sound proof a car save your money and install some pads like in this video in vital areas like in transmission tunel, near the muffler, in the center of the door skin, some roof, the firewall etc, you'll see that most are already installed from the factory so next step is to install some new weather seals and grab a Mercedes ML carpet or similar from the scrap yard cut it up to pattern and install it under your stock one.
As an audio engineer I think you’ve limited yourself to analyzing decibels which is just a measure of loudness when in reality what is evident from the video and even more important in my opinion is the frequency spectrum was reduced to the lower vibrational waves which will never go away unless you replace the floorboard with a few inches of lead. You have successfully reduced the noise and loudness of the mid and high frequency range of hearing which clearly results in less harshness while driving leading to reduced fatigue and a better driving experience.
Exactly, like i wear air tight silicon reusable earplugs while riding my motorcycle and while revving it only sounds bassy cause of the vibrations and without earplugs frequencies above 4khz are too much. Definitely if you check equalizer it has shifted in lower range in this video after layering.
Excellent video! FACT: On the Jazz/Fit or any Hondas, the biggest reduction of road noise/tyre roar comes from extensively treating the FRONT fender chamber and fender liners. The road noise creeps out via that tall thin gap behind the front door hinges. The fender liner must be lined with Dynamat type of constrained layer dampener+foam, while the chamber should be sprayed with underseal. Most importantly, the tiny airspace directly behind where mudflaps reside shd be stuffed with waterproof material such as Thinsulate. This will give significant reduction of road noise which must be BALANCED by a reduction of engine noise by treating the underside of hood. And then, you can progress to the next most significant area (in order of importance): 2. The 4 doors 3. The 2 rear wheel humps 4. Front floor 5. Rear floor 6. Roof (the last). For a further highly noticeable reduction in exterior noises, and done to all my Hondas: Install 3M additional rubber door seals. Stuff THINSULATE into both A-pillars as both are hollow with tiny holes acting as a flute, and amplifying windnoise and tyre noise that slams onto the 2 pillars. In your situation, since you hv even used MLV, thats excellent. But you have missed out 4 critically important areas that can give you another approx 4db of reduction: 1. Front fender wells (super critical) 2. Under undercarriage (shd be sprayed with any suitable compound or just plain undersealant) Significant difference. 3. Stuffing A and C pillars with Thinsulate. 4. Additional rubber door seals. All the above were done to my 9yr old Honda City and the results were marvellous! Avg 8db of reduction at 80kmh over the same stretch of tarmac. No MLVs used. Even the Honda mechanics noticed the significantly quiet interior😜
Don't you worry about stuffing material into cavities just becoming a thing to hold moisture, even if it is waterproof condensation can form on it and then lead to rusting from the inside out. Thinking of doing this to a classic car for reference.
@@admiraldirtbag4336 most modern cars are zinc coated on the inside, so rust is no longer an issue. However, in a classic car, that could become a problem, depending on your climate.
If you attempt testing noise level again, use a spectrum analyzer instead of a db meter. It will show you what differences there are at different frequencies rather than just a general noise level.
@@corbinslaymaker3346exactly. The entire point is to lower the pitch/frequency of the noise. It’s a way to get a more subjectively quiet environment relative to what just an SPL meter will tell you. A higher frequency at the same SPL as a lower frequency will sound subjectively louder.
I have successfully removed a LOT of drone noise and NVH (noise, vibration and harshness) from my car after doing four things that made a big difference. (And I had like everyone else started off by trying to get things quiet using butyl mats/dynamat etc. I realised that that had a very limited effect and beginners usually end up sticking down way too much of the stuff and later regret it because you start thinking how much you’ve weighed the car down by. And a year or three down the line you end up taking two thirds of it back out - or trying to). Here in England I run a 2011 Ford Mondeo (Fusion) estate/station wagon. MY FOUR BIG TIPS for INSTANTLY reducing noise (REMEMBER - you are NOT going to get your sub-$25thousand dollar car to hush like a Bentley. BUT - you can get a LONG way towards it.) NUMBER ONE - REPLACE YOUR TYRES. If you want quiet, you need to LIFT the car further away from the ground and have less tyre in contact with the ground. So run NARROWER tyres with a TALLER SIDE WALL and if you can a SMALLER RIM SIZE. I replaced my 215 55 R17 tyres with 205 65 R16 tyres on replaced 16 inch rims. This dramatically reduced the rolling drone of the tyres on the road and gave a softer ride because the taller side wall raised the car further above the ground as well as reducing the contact with the ground. Yes you will get less of a sporty ride but I’m not interested in a sporty ride. NUMBER TWO - INSERT SURGICAL TUBING into all your door seals. You need to improve resistance to outside sounds coming in. Adding surgical tubing into all your door seals makes them nice and snug. Don’t go TOO tight though - get the right tube width - or else you won’t be able to shut the doors and you’ll feel real dumb. NUMBER THREE - Buy cheap ‘RECON FOAM’ cut it up into small cubes and shove it compacted into all the empty cavities under the trim around the console, footwells and glove compartment. You wouldn’t believe how many just open holes there are in that area doing nothing but causing sound from the engine and up from the ground to reverberate around. Foam (NEVER USE SPRAY FOAM - it will enter places you really don’t want it to get and you will never get it out in the event of a repair requirement) dampens all that NVH and contributes to the multi-pronged solution we are going for. You need to do a LOT of things to add up to removing those decibels. NUMBER FOUR - Go to the back of the car. On most cars under the rear bumper on the left and right corner areas hidden away you will find a one-way ventilation flap on each side of the car. These are interior pressure flaps that allow air to escape from the car when the doors are closed and to allow ‘used’ air to escape from the cabin as new air enters from the front air vents. BUT they usually are located behind a very large cavity that sits adjacent to the rear wheel arches. In some cars you can reach into this large empty cavity through the back hole at the rear of the small felt door/closet you find in the left or right wall of the boot/trunk - the little hidden hole you might put an emergency traffic cone or yellow jacket in for example. I discovered these cavities causes a LOT of droning noise. The noise from the rear wheel comes straight through them, reverberates and comes out through the interior rear air escape vents. FILL ONE OF THESE CAVITIES UP! Don’t fill both - you need one to maintain the ability to release the cabin air pressure remember - and often the fuel fill area prevents access to one of the cavities depending on if you have a left or right hand drive. But if you can get access to one side - fill it up tight with old rags, recon foam, old carpet that can be scrunched up - you want as much as possible to remove cavity space that creates reverb. Use anything not too heavy but DENSE. So recon foam, being more dense, is a lot better at dampening and muffling drone than, say, bubble wrap. Pack it in tight - and there’s room for a LOT of foam and rags in there. The more you stuff in the quieter you'll get. This for me REMOVED 80 to 90% of the heavy drone in the back of the car - which had been particularly irksome on long motorway journeys. NUMBER FOUR POINT ONE (!) Not essential but this improved my car dramatically - If your car is one of those that tilts down slightly towards the front end (to allow for the backend to dip slightly and the car to even out when the trunk is fully loaded) buy a pair of polyurethane lifting spacers to sit at the top of your front struts. Your garage can fit them for about $250. They again move the front end higher off the ground, away from the noise of the road. So coupled with the tyres we’re really changing how close we are to the noise of the road. Plus they make the car sit more evenly and look a lot better... SO These are my main tips for really getting to a quieter, pleasant drive. And they have really worked for me. I wish you all the best with your own particular car - every one has its quirks and every one will have slightly different solutions. It's a lot of sometimes unpleasant work, but persevere and you can get a nice result.
Your point about the tires makes a lot of sense. My 1996 Oldsmobile wagon is so much quieter than my 2015 Honda CR-V, and I think it’s the combination of ride height, smaller wheels, narrow and tall sidewall tires, that are behind it.
I have sound deadened a large sprinter van and can confirm that 20% coverage of butyl rubber works perfectly. Place a square of butyl in the center of large panels to stop reverberation. Don't bother with tightly pressed curves because they don't reverberate. Olny use the closed cell foam on inside of side, roof and door panels. Forget the vinyl, stock carpet is fine. High end cars with double glazed windows are the quietest you will see. A very limiting factor with cheap cars is thin glass which lets in lots of outside noise.
Yeah there's heaps of videos from Vanlifers about this. They only deaden the middle of each panel as that is the source of most noise. Saves a lot of work and $$$ for the same result
this is a video that ask people NOT to do the hard work by themselves, 'cause it's too damn hard. Thanks. I cannot image, how much planning, how many miles of test drive, how many hours of research, all of these spent on this video. Huge appreciation. I cannot do it.
talking just loudness, usually a 2dB difference is negligible... anyone can do an experiment to get a feel of what +/- 6 dB is: play a song on your phone and listen to it from one feet away then step further to 2 ft. that's a -6dB reduction in loudness (SPL vs 2x distance). do the distance math for a 2dB reduction.. barely noticeable difference in loudness :} THAT being said, the road noise is comprised of many pitches and eliminating SOME of them will not reflect in the total dB count as much as in the dB reduction of certain frequency ranges. and that's what the video shows, some fqs are clearly quieter, and being somewhere in the mid fqs, that helps a lot as our ears are more sensitive to the fq range of the human voice... hope this helps, take it easy
I did an entire 80 series landcruiser . Floor, doors, roof firewall and tailgate with foil and foam. took me 50 hours to strip, then install and reassemble. The difference in that particular vehicle was amazing. Tip for viewers= if you can still see the diamond pattern in the foil, you have NOT rolled it down enough and results will suffer.
Getting ready to do this same thing on my 80 series amidst an engine swap. Thanks for the tip! How many square feet of one layer did you think you used?
As someone that works in the NVH industry for a car manufacture, I will add that another thing you want to do when sound proofing a car is to cover up any holes that are not being used for bolts or plastic clips. Like at 25:55 on the left side where the wiring harness runs along below the doors, there's a small hole that can be covered just below the harness. Block off the open areas around the seat belt retractors, etc. Any open holes are a pathway for noise.
I also think some cars are just not designed with sound in mind. I don’t even have MLV yet on my car and mines sitting at 62db at 65mph. I believe this car was designed with noise reduction in mind so adding the first 2 layers helped it even more so
Perfect answer. Another additional step is to fill the void with a non-water retaining material. Polly fill stuffing. Some used fiberglass. Then once stuffed, cover the area up
@JTube571 work on vehicles and been doing it for like 22 years the change those things you talk about are so minor you can't tell the difference your better off doing the sound insulation in the panels those small holes are so miniscule in the change the human ear doesn't notice
That final comparison gives me 2 impressions : You got rid of most of the high frequency hisses that are really irritating and you end up hearing the engine more than the road noise. I'm fairly sure (even without a drastic reduction in dB) that the result is a much less fatiguing noise compared to what it was before
Apparently it's possible to add too much of a certain type, maybe the CLD type. Supposedly you only need to cover 25-33% of the metal with closer to the middle areas.
That is how I feel after doing my project but I went further and got even more (-8). Incorporate one of the two high quality fiber based sound absorbing materials (Resonix or 3M and do the wheel wells too. The Fiber Material is very expensive but the 3M Thinsulate is insanely effective at sound absorption. Fibermat from Resonix is cheaper, specs the same for sound absorption and has an adhesive backing which helps in certain applications from my exp (door panels and headliner). The key of course is to not compress these fiber materials or it doesn't absorb bass too well. You can however double them up for even better low frequency absorption and that is what I do on the large roof (24 square feet) of my Toyota Yaris. It acts like a huge bass trap and even helps the soundstage up front. Of course since doing this and the CLD/closed cell foam on the roof, i don't hear rain or wind noise there at all, which of course really helps keep the music sounding good. Only on the windows and it's way quieter that way.
Considering that every 3 db less, reduces the perceived noise to half for the human ear, you just reduced the noise in your car to less than half 👏👏👏👏 The sound db scale, is not linear for the human ear, it’s progressive 😉
4-5 DB is more than appreciable, 3 db means that the sound pressure is cut in half, the db scale is logarythmic so the work you done worth every penny and sweat invested. going further involves redesigning the suspension links to the shell and of course, the powertrain supports. even the tire choice have an impact on the noise transmitted to the shell. The exhaust system have an important role to play, even if it seems not loud, it generates frequencies that are likely easier to transfer to the shell. The noise that the easier to dampen is the noise that is not produced. you done a very good job on your Honda Fit.
The reason sound pressure level uses a logarithmic scale Is because that's how humans perceive sound. A 3 dB level change in sound is generally considered the smallest change the average person can distinguish.
@@MilkyWayJoel the A scale ( Db A ) is the compilation of the sound corrected by frequency bands to conform to the human audition, it is usually the base frequency used on all sonometers, on higher grade sonometers, you can read, for each frequency band, the noise reading. It is very useful when performing noise reduction work.
@@jacquespoirier9071 A weighted scale has nothing to do with what I just said. As you said, it corrects for how human hear different frequencies relative to one another. That doesn't change how at a given frequency, it takes a large change in Pa (about double) for the average human ear to perceive it. Google "smallest db change person can notice." Skilled listener can hear 1 dB difference, average person can hear 3 dB difference.
@@MilkyWayJoel Decibel is logarithmic. A drop of -3 be it in dB, dBm or dBw means that you lost 50% or that the difference is a factor of 2. Has nothing to do with human perception.
@@sliwka621 Yes going by the measured numbers he successfully cut sound level down by half. My point is if that's the smallest change the average person can even tell in a back to back listening session, was all this work successful? I don't see how the answer is yes.
OH MY GOSH. I only did the back area of my Mazda and there’s no way I was adding recording it for other people. No one will EVER know the work you put into this video and it’s greatly appreciated. Thank you
@@tapig3322 I did. Even covered the trunk. Is it quieter than before? Yes it absolutely is. The sound profile of the car has also changed, it's a more pleasant noise. But it isn't silent by any stretch. However, it is a lot of work and it is really time consuming. If you want to do a full car job, expect it to take at least two full days. Taking an interior fully apart is a massive pain in the ass, and putting it back together with extra material involved sucks even harder. So take that as you will. I can't say that I recommend it because it's a massive time investment for what amounts to less and more pleasant noise.
Every youtuber who does comprehensive testing like this is worth their weight in gold. There is always room for improvement but I think saying anything less than "God bless you you did a wonderful job helping me do this/decide to do this" would be a straight up lie. It is a damn shame this video has 1.3 million views while you have 150-250k subscribers. When someone offers me information like this I follow them at least for a little while. Thank you again man
You worked your butt off in a thorough and methodical manner. Thank you, and I'm not even going to sound deaden my car. It was cool watching you master a challenge!
23:51 rubber is dense so it absorbs bass. foam has a lot of aeration/tiny chambers, so it absorbs high pitched sound (the more noticeable noise.) this principal applies to literally any kind of sound deadening, auto or otherwise. specifically, bass does not have a "tight" soundwave (if you saw a read out) and it can pass through foam really easy because of it. high pitched sounds ends up bouncing around a lot more, so something that's got a lot of chambers to catch it will ofc filter a lot out. that is a stupidly oversimplified explanation but I hope it made sense/explained a little more for those curious lol
@RepairGeek~ Excellent video! I'm a Speech Language Pathologist & Audiologist. I wanted to add some observations about your "sound db meter measurements" and the limitations of the type of db meter you used to measure the "Before and After" noise changes. Sound is measured by TWO aspects: # 1] Amplitude (Volume/Loudness): High Amplitude is Loud and Low Amplitude is Quiet. Amplitude is measured in Decibels (db). #2] The "Frequency" (Pitch) High frequency is a high-pitched sound, low frequency is, well, low. We measure frequency in hertz (Hz) and kilohertz (kHz), which is thousands of hertz. Lower pitches travel further and pass through objects more easily than higher frequency sounds. Every sound we hear, including each other's voices, is a complex combination of different high and low frequencies. The frequencies and how we hear them can be impacted by the environment. All the pitches that make up any one sound are important to the experience of that sound and the removal or quieting of any of them, can change our experience of that sound. So, for example, when you hear someone talking on the other side of a door their voice sounds different because the higher frequencies in their voice do not carry through the door as well as the lower pitch parts. When high pitch sounds are quieter they sound like they are further away, because high pitch sounds/high frequencies don't travel as far or through objects as well as low pitch sounds/low frequencies. (It's why the kid in your elementary school class with the deep voice always gets caught talking in class... because their voice carries further and more powerfully than the kids with higher pitched voices.) SO.....while your DB METER measured the gross AMPLITUDE/LOUDNESS, it did NOT measure the FREQUENCY/PITCH of the sounds inside the Honda while you were driving. This is why you perceived a bigger difference in the sound level within your car after you added the sound deadening than what your DB meter indicated. The DB Meter you utilized did not measure the change in Frequency/Pitch of the sound within the car!! Sounds, such as the tires whining against the road or howling of wind outside the car, are HIGH PITCHED SOUNDS. Your sound deadening install altered the Frequency/Pitch of those sounds too!! I would venture to guess that, IF you were to MEASURE BOTH the DECIBELS and HERTZ within YOUR Honda Fit vs another Honda Fit of the same year, you would see a tangible and SIGNIFICANT IMPROVEMENT IN YOUR CAR after the sound reading install!! I believe you altered the interior sound much more than your test revealed! Great video Repair Geek! ~~Christy~~
Thanks for explaining some of the science here Christy. I'm a mechanic by trade so measuring the frequencies never even crossed my mind making the video. Thanks for watching!
Recently restored an early 90’s Nissan. Adding butyl and foam inside the body and door panels made a noticeable difference in road noise, similar to what you observed. Replacing the 30 year old door and window seals made a significant difference as well. The amount of time you spent making this video is commendable. I like how you told the purpose and function of each layer, and what they will and will not do.
Great job! This reminds me of the very first car I did sound deadening on :) I've learned a couple of things since how to make it easier/cheaper: - The amount of butyl rubber is excessive here, you only need to cover 40-60% of the bigger flatter surfaces. Covering everything else typically only serves aesthetics. - Use aluminum duct tape to seal butyl rubber edges for aesthetics and to prevent the butyl to squeezing out and sticking to whatever is there on a hot summer day. Vinyl seems to do great job covering the mess also! - Thin foam doesn't help so much on the floor, I only had noticeable results using 6-10mm foam but that creates a lot of troubles when putting the interior back together. Factory carpet does some sound deadening as well, adding a thin layer of foam wouldn't change much. - Factory deadening starts falling off after a couple of years, it's best to get rid of it if possible, some heat may help a bit. - Don't push butyl rubber so hard, those squares on a foil side are there for a reason. - Make sure it's warm enough when applying butyl rubber (high 70s and up), use heat gun otherwise, especially when doing doors/roof. - Use heavier butyl rubber (like 150mil) on wheel arches and flat floor panels. - Use some butyl rubber on the hood and try to squeeze into fender cavities and cover fender panels as well. - Using foam on a ceiling doesn't help sound deadening as much but creates a strong heat barrier. This is great during warm season, not as good when it's below freezing since the layer of snow and ice you may have on the roof would never melt. Same applies to the hood panel. - As far as efficiency goes, this would be my order: doors (including hatch/trunk), fenders, roof, firewall (very labor-intensive), hood, wheel arches, floor. Doing doors + fenders + hood is least effort and gives great results.
Well said. As a veteran installer, I'm always trying to get the younger generation to understand that more is not better. Sound requires science, and the brute-force approach is the antithesis of analysis. Thankless work, to be sure, and there's no need to compound your misery.....
I haven't found any concrete good advice for wheel wheels. My truck has those carpet style liners so I was wondering if I where to sound deaden the wheel wells would I put material on the metal behind the liner or what? I have seen where some people put some deadening on the back of the plastic wheel liners that most vehicles use, but I'm not sure if that is an option.
@@kevinyork4757 Not from this. I drive a ‘17 Sierra and did talk to one guy a few years ago that put some sound deadening on the metal in the wheel wells after putting all terrain tires on said that it helped a lot. It’s something I’m considering but the AT’s on my truck aren’t that loud.
The thing is, youre not only making road noice lower. You also optimize the overall stereo sound in the car. So i would say its absolutely worth it. Great work.
My upgraded speakers did not produce bass at all until I sealed the doors, and overall treating the whole car was a massive improvement in ride quality at highway speeds. The only thing you'll hate after doing this is the dominance of wind noise, and that is sometimes impossible to reduce without drastic changes.
I mounted great stereo to my car, sound-deadened and sealed the doors. Now listening lower-pitched and less polyphonic (e.g. modern electronic) music is a bliss. But listening to rock or metal is still unpleasant and harmful to the ears. I discovered there's a lot of reverberation and that's what pushed me to sound deaden the car, mainly to reduce it.
Hands down this is the best most informative DIY vlog on sound deadening. I had watched at least a dozen videos before this and contemplated on whether to watch another and I am so glad I did ! So thorough with all the db tests at different intervals, exactly what I needed to help make a decision on sound deadening my 2nd Gen Scion xB. For me now I don't think I will bother with the cost and time to do this. So glad I came across this video. Thanks Repair Geek
I felt cheated wasting time watching all the other sponsored videos and started to believe it's just a scam. This convinced me it's doable and worth it.
I’ve been playing the same game with my landcruiser 80 series for awhile. I used the same tin butyl, a slightly thicker closed cell foam, and a giant sheet 45x70” of mlv over the cargo floor that I had left over from soundproofing pipes in my house (which works btw). My vehicle, like your Honda, already had segments of the floor and wheel Wells coated with a butyl skin in certain areas from the factory. I did not apply a foam underlayment under the mlv sheet, but if this video was out i would have. That being said I believe it still benefited quite a bit. Following the vehicle manufacturers line of thinking, I didn’t completely cover surfaces, but rather have large pieces of butyl staggered on the inside quarter panels like spots on a cow. For me, welding rust holes shut, and covering unnecessary holes with butyl made the biggest difference. I can also recommend from experience, a sprayed asphalt/rubberized undercoating on the bottom of the body makes a big difference for sound. Particularly in the front and rear exterior wheel Wells
my buddy sound deadened his car and he also had some subs. It really made the bass feel super clean and crisp due to no rattling at all. Just pure bass. Im definitely doing this on my miata before subs
That is why I wanted to take on this project. It wasn't really about blocking all the sound outside but making sure the sound inside was good. I prefer SQ so I knew I'd have to put in some work to not have bloated bass and a million sound reflections bouncing around giving me a headache. I found out that if you make the headliner a huge bass trap, that a good chunk of bass issues , get cleaned up. That or have 2-4 subs :)
I studied noise control at university. I wouldn’t expect a lot of reduction from treating the floors, roof and firewall since the window glass has no treatment and I suspect a lot of direct noise radiation comes from the glass. I did a “poor man’s” treatment of my car with limited results. Thanks for your video! I won’t waste time or money trying to do a deluxe treatment. Clearly a case of diminishing returns!
he used cheap products AND left out many products in areas that actually matter most.. Also it is important to note every car will return different results. I was able to drop over 10db in my accord. But i put much more material in my car and esp in the weak areas like doors and roof. There is a science behind it and if you dont understand it then it is pointless.
@WetLettuce-kc2qm Depends how luxury. A lot of lux cars will have thicker glass, which is great. But even better, some cars like S class, Genesis etc, actually have double layered side windows, and acoustic front windshields.
Also improving the aerodynamic of the car helps. Get rid of that roof rack. More luxury tires not geared for high performance driving but with softer rubber and sidewalls, smoother treads with fewer aggressive tread blocks. That's the thing you also wanted to explore. It's a give or take exchange in other performance.
This is a fantastically documented account of sound deadening a car. The video is logically laid-out and the comparison between each layer makes it that much more thorough. Thank you very much.
Ive deadened more vehicles than almost anyone else i know and i can confirm - it makes a massive difference. Not just for insulation but it really does make an audible difference. And remember! Every 3db is is twice the volume meaning 150db is twice as loud as 147db.
This is amazing! One major source of noise, especially at higher speeds, is the air passing the car.. check on your door seals, make sure they are not cracking, are elastic and have good surface contact. For some cars there are even comfort seals for extra noise reduction.
Yeah this is what I normally notice on road trips. Wind noise whipping across my car. Been thinking of getting the sticky back foam tape to help the door seals.
Yeah many times you can find pretty good deals on these OEM seals and if you are having whistling at your door many times these are the reason why. I was able to use some closed cell foam tape to make it work even better by carefully adhering it along it's opposing side for a better seal. I didn't even notice the seal being off until I did this project however heh.
At the end of the video you said there was pretty much nothing else you could have done to reduce noise. There is one practical thing that most people may not know about… I’ve been doing autoglass for 10 years now and when you get your windshield replaced, you usually have some options. (The autoglass company usually wont even list them because people usually decline) Anyways when you get your windshield replaced there is a base windshield, and a lot of cars have an option for acoustic interlayer, which is basically adding an extra layer to the windshield to reduce noise on the road. This option is usually around 100$ more. I checked for the Honda Fit, they dont have an option for the acoustic interlayer.. but the OEM manufactured windshield may be thicker. You can also request that the autoglass company install foam around the perimeter of the windshield, which is something that is never done or requested but definitely known about in the autoglass world, as a lot of OEM windshield come with foam strips around the perimeter of the windshield.
I've done a lot of sound deadening and the area that helps the most is the doors and wheel arch's. sound mostly comes from the wheel arches and the glass. Apply fabric to the arches and back with deadening or heavy foam. The floor makes the least difference. Firewall is also a good location. You can use expanda foam in sealed panels
you are so right,. i applied killmats to the wheel wells both inside and outside, and the tire noise is much reduced. In my opinion, the most annoying noise is tire noise, once you get rid of that, the wind noise is kinda ok.
@@walltiger6603 Do you have any information on how to apply to the wheel wells? I was wondering about that. There should be something you can apply to the wheel wells directly around the tires to change the way sound resounds.
I'm not sure what car you are having. But different car has different characteristics. I'm assuming cheaper cars have chassis or body structure that is more prone to transmit more sound to the undercarriage, and they may have torsion beam rear suspension with less absorbent suspension rubber mounts,... those types of car will transmit plenty of sound to the floor.
@@walltiger6603 Do you mean to take the plastic out of the wheel wells, or apply it to the plastic wheel wells? (inside or outside of plastic if plastic?) I actually like the idea of not pulling the carpet up..
Great work! I also tried to sound proof my car and I searched so many disassembling videos of some expensive cars and realised that they also have deadener on the inside of the car doors + sound absorbing material such as felt just the thick same as the carpet (roll royce/ mercedes/ lexus/ bentley/volvo), they also put thick felt between the plastic cover wheel well and the chassis for absorbing road noise, next to the air pressure balancing vein in the trunk they covered by felt + some foam blocks, at some pillar covers they also add foam or felt. I did make the soundproofing for my car including 4 doors, 4 wheel wells with some damping stuffs bought online with butyl, soft foam,thick felt. The doors when closing are much more better - feel more solid and there is only little tires sound echoing from the road concrete separator through the doors when driving on the high way than before. I also recorded my car sound when driving on the harsh road and the result was the frequency from 50hz to 1500hz is the most annoying sounds. I felt that it came from the chassis vibrating not the sound from the tire because I drove very slowly. So I think that adding some damping material to the flat iron surface to absorb the vibrating will lead to result as you did to the floor.
17:01 compared to 17:09 there is a change with the comfort fan setting. See the dial move from position 2 or 3 down to the off position. No, I don’t think this was misleading… but I do think it may have impacted your reading by some unknown amount of decibels. What ever the case, wonderful video!
Great work, - well done! I know how much of a pain it is, as I've done quite a few of my cars over the years. Best result was with a Lotus Elise, but that car started with virtually zero sound deadening, so it made a dramatic difference. One thing I found during my various projects, is that removing the the wheel-well liners, spraying heavy-duty deadener into the bare wheel arches, then also coating the inside of the liners as well, made a dramatic difference to road/tyre noise. Just as much as doing the floor with butyl + foam. In the lotus I also did HD thermal + laminated felt on the bulkhead (firewall). Overall, it made the little beast an acceptable daily drive and I could throw away the earplugs (literally). Even the wife would then ride along... Thanks for the video!
Great work! Quick note - tires made a huge difference on my Ford Transit Connect. The stock Continentals were awfully loud (and ended up failing prematurely due to separating belts @ only 30k miles), and we got some Michelin Defenders. MUCH more quiet and comfortable. Also looking at installing some of this sound deadening material.
About a year ago, I purchased a new 2022 Nissan Versa as a commute car (I'm 96 miles door-to-door to work). I hadn't even thought about sound-deadening until watching this. And this tutorial is so complete, I can't see a reason not to do it.
Take your time and do a bunch of research before you even get started. I've already started doing it to another economy car of mine and I'm sure the results will be pretty fantastic.
Thank you for the most comprehensive car sound deadening guide and results comparison video on TH-cam! I've watched nearly all the sound deadening guides on TH-cam and this one is lightyears ahead of them. I really appreciate the methodical comparisons you have shown us. Great video and kudos to you! 👍👍
Nice work! I would also recommend insulating the A pillar trims with open cell foam sheets to absorb the wind noises, which Honda cars neglect. Also the door seals leave lots of redundant gaps when closed, again notorious in Honda cars. I would insert the door seals with silicone tubes, 0.15inch O.D should fit well, but expect to slam the door with the force needed on a European car for the first few weeks, lube with generous amount of silicone oil during insertion. With the doors firmly secured to the body while closed, you will notice a significant level of quietness with the intense work you’ve done to the floor previously. Let us know the outcome. Good luck!
@@AgentOffice u simply disconnect your batt before u pull it off to avoid deploying airbag however u want closed cell foam not OPEN Also not anytime u remove a or b pillar there’s a special clip in there that in essence gets ruined u should always pre order new clips b4 hand they r a couple bucks usually square but 99% of ppl have no idea what they r doing thus why I don’t buy a used car from some fool who’s torn it apart knowing nothing (no offense to u personally)
-4 db of noise sound is about -63% reduction. So, your work actually was pretty darn good. I notice that you have not dampened the side panels yet. It may be worthwhile to do that since the metal on the side of the body is thin and wide. So dampening it may reduce the higher frequency "rattling" noise.
That's a massive amount of work, thank you for documenting it! Like you said with the sources of the sound, if the car is over 5-7 years old you might see great results from replacing the strut mounts since that's the load bearing rubber isolation between the wheels and the chassis.
Excellent work! One thing I think you could emphasize more is the pitch of the noise...the "after" clips had a noticeably lower average pitch than the "before" clips. High frequencies are being reduced much more effectively than low frequencies, which makes sense given the energy involved in producing the sound. The subjective improvement is impressive! Your meter is probably weighted to account for that somewhat, but the audio tells the story more accurately than the meter in this case.
I agree the raw audio tells a bigger story than the meter. Like I said later in the video I had no way of showing the direction the sound was coming from either.
i used the exact same materials in my 2017 Subaru Outback Premium this summer and I got similar results. Conversation is much easier and the interior noise is hushed more than the meter can measure. Maybe it's the pitch of the noise that changed; it's hard to describe but it's very noticeable. This was the first time I had ever used mass loaded vinyl under the carpet. I didn't glue or tape it down because the thick carpet will hold it in place. And I agree that it would be helpful inside the doors but almost impossible to install. It's too heavy, too thick and wouldn't conform well to the irregular surface of the back side of the door panel. I would like to eliminate more of the noise from the wheel wells and would like to hear from anyone who successfully used a rubberized spray exteriorly. Kudos for a well done video. The best one I've seen on this subject.
Its possible, you have to use Velcro strips in the corners and maybe a couple in the middle. I believe open cell is better for sound proofing but it absorbs water so not to good for cars lol. And I have also sprayed the fender wells of a couple of my cars. I did the whole underbody for rust prevention and just for looks honestly when I'm down there. Definite sound improvement though. Still biggest change is fatmat after you put those 2 12s and a 600 watt amp to your door speakers lmfao.
@The MBOD Your Subaru will never be as quiet as a MB. The Mercedes was engineered to be quiet from the frame to the windshield. You can't duplicate that in a STI, but you can make it much quieter than it is by following this video. Remove the seats and the carpet, lay down butyl rubber, lay closed cell foam over that and then Mass loaded vinyl on the top. Replace the carpet and seats and you'll be amazed at the improvement. You can also add the butyl rubber and the CLF to the interior of the doors but not the MLV...it's too heavy to stay in place.
I would deaden the underside of the hood, wheel well inserts, rear hatch, and spray foam rocker cavities and B-pillar. Laminate / tint your windshield and windows. Check your door seals. Deaden your firewall and areas under dash.
It's worth mentioning that Decibels are an exponential measurement. A decrease in 5 DB from 80 to 75 is much more significant than from 45 to 40. I think the results were pretty good. Edit: I see others have said this. Still a good video.
Great video. I'm currently falling down a sound dampening/deadening rabbit hole studying all of this and your video comparisons really helped. Thanks for your efforts!
If the dB meter can be set to show readings from, say, 20Hz to 5KHz, I think you'll see a greater dB drop because it looks like you've succeeded in reducing noise in this range. And that's a good achievement because our ears are more sensitive in this range of frequencies. Cheers.
correct to say we don't perceive high frequencies as well, but we also don't perceive low frequencies as well either. next to no adult human alive is hearing fundamental pitches as low as 20hz
to really see the change, use not only a DB meter but a spectrum analyzer as well (like the reading on some audio equalizers with them light bars). it tells the frequencie range where the sound is different
There's a MASSIVE change in the pitch of the noise. The best way I can describe it is tire hiss, the tire hiss sound of the tires on the pavement is drastically reduced. Thanks again for the video, this is VERY informative and I appreciate it. I'm in the process of trying to quiet down our 2022 Bronco while upgrading the horrible audio system to something that is much more enjoyable. This is a brand new territory for me when it comes to installing sound deadening and your video has been the best one I have watched out of maybe 10 videos that are covering this process. Thanks again!
I can definitely confirm that sound deadening the door skins is absolutely imperative to reducing overall noise in the vehicle and that you can definitely get away with using only the sound damping materials if you've got a decent quality of carpeting in your car. Another thing to note is that butyl rubber sound damping mats are largely equivalent in terms of how they function between brands and the only thing that is different between them is the thickness and durometer of the rubber layer and whether or not the aluminum has been stamped to more clearly indicate where you've pressed it to the panels. It is also worth noting that you can get this sheeting in a variety of thicknesses and, in the areas where there isn't much of a gap between the trim panels and the metal underneath, it can be worthwhile to purchase some thinner butyl rubber sheeting to place between them in order to reduce resonance. Another option instead of foam as the intermediary layer if you want more sound absorption is a layer of felt. You can totally just buy a bolt of decently thick, dense felt from a fabric store and use some spray-on adhesive to bond it to the butyl rubber layer. Actual wool felt is superior in sound absorption compared to synthetic, but it is also significantly more expensive, so buy what you can find and reasonably afford. You could also use the diamond quilted cotton fabric with batting as another layer of sound absorbing material for areas with enough space for it, such as between the inner door and the door card, behind the major interior panels, behind the headliner, etc. Fabric and carpets excel at absorbing sound and one of the easiest ways to cut noise in your car is to see if any aftermarket companies make a higher quality pre-cut and formed carpet for your vehicle and replace your existing carpet with it. Pile depth and density is extremely important here in the same way it is important when considering carpeting for a home theater. The deeper and denser the carpet pile, the more it absorbs and diffuses sound waves that attempt to pass through it. This is especially true for cars whose stock carpets are cheap, thin, low-pile stuff, as it offers very minimal sound absorption.
@@CrashCarson14 depends on the design of your car. If you want to sound dampen your wheel wells then the best solution is a coat of rubberized bed liner or undercoating. The more viscoelastic (rubbery) the better. Just remember to thoroughly scuff the panels up before cleaning and spraying or it won't stick as well. If you don't care very much about how it looks (it'll be largely hidden and shaded anyway) then some of these rubberized coatings can be brushed on. Just try to apply it fairly thick. It serves the same role as butyl rubber sound dampening sheets. If the noise coming into your car is primarily the noise of things passing by you on the road, then do the doors first, followed by the floors and above the headliner. If it's mostly rocks and road debris clattering noises while you drive, then you'll want to do the wheel wells. If it's just engine noise, then you'll need to pull the dash to install some on the cabin side of the firewall and also on the floor, focusing on the transmission tunnel.
@@mndlessdrwer interesting yeah that makes sense. I’ve always wondered since most videos or things show entire installs. Not something most would do and due to cost and time I want to get the most effective sports first
Well done video. This highlights how it's not just the decibel rating but also the pitch and quality of the noise. The "harshness" of that noise was greatly reduced with each layer.
You do NOT need 100% coverage, and this can be validated with knock-testing. It's especially easy to test with the roof, because when you tap again a proper application of CLD tiles on the roof it will make a very dead "thunk" noise as opposed to the hollow noise without the contrained-layer applied. This difference in sound is due to the panel's inability to resonate due to the increased inertia of the butyl layer. You should also apply the CLD to the pillars, especially the larger C or D pillars, because they can act like an echo chamber. The inner door panels do not need it as much
@@RepairGeek I agree to what Rustler said that you need not cover 100%. I was surprised that you also covered the floor that already has factory sound-proofing.
You don't but I did slightly overlap some very high quality CLD that I got from Resonix and holy shit. It actually hurts my knuckles to knock on it, unlike the other 3 types of CLD I used in my project. My friend at work did it and said wtf! (I agree) It's the lowest thunk I've ever heard. I used some Amazon Basics 80 mil and some 60 mil stuff on other less important sections and there isn't much comparison. Night and day thunks (high pitch and longer lasting thunk vs a nearly dead and almost inaudible thunk. It doesn't even feel like I am hitting sheet metal but instead a VERY HARD hardwood like oak, save there is no resonance but both hurt your knuckles when you knock on, with a think OAK only being slightly less painful. It's kind of insane when you overlap it it seems. I call it my Nasa Yaris because when I knock on those panels it feels like a spaceship. All I did was overlap 4-8 sheets of the stuff on the roof and rear quarter panels where my rear speakers would cause them literally flop around before treated. They still flop around a bit but are almost inaudible when doing so: I can't really hear my system outside of the car due to all these layers working together in unison.
Something you should be aware of is that the road surface together with the tires makes a massive amount of difference. So whenever you were recording different speeds on the road, you needed to record on exactly the same piece of road to leave that variable out.
Great project!! Regarding your DB meter. You needed a full spectrum audio analyzer so you could see the dbs for all of the audible frequencies at the same time. That last test was infact massively different, that last layer did make a difference but the db meter didn't capture that.
Greetings from New Zealand. Huge respect to you for your professionalism in putting this amazing video together. It should be the blueprint for anybody considering undertaking such work. I’ve done some sound deadening work in my Nissan Sunny many years ago and while it greatly reduced drumming noise the reduction in road noise although noticeable was not great. I later went onto to spraying the wheel arches with a bitumenous type of thick spread which helped massively with tyre noise but eventually resulted in accelerated rusting where there were gaps as water off wet road surfaces would stay in these gaps for a very long time. That was in the early 90’s. Here in New Zealand the road sealing is done using quite coarse stone chips making road noise a real issue. I’ve driven an identical Nissan in Sydney, Australia where the road surfaces are of much finer chips and the the interior noise in the car I was driving was so much lower.
I solved this problem years ago for my Mazda 626 by choosing reduced road noise tyres. The brand was Michelin and the difference was substantial and noticed by several passengers. It became a real joy to drive. As you say, touring tyres are not cheap, but they are very effective at lowering noise before it even enters the cabin. You may need to special order, but I was lucky and found a dealer with stock. I would 100% percent recommend this approach as a first step in reducing cabin noise
A few years ago, I bought new tyres for my 2013 Hyundai Elantra. I couldn't believe how much louder the road noise was. My friend told me it's because they put soft tyres on them so they sound quieter for initial sales. They don't last as long but they fool you into thinking it's a quiet car
Applying sound dampening, as this, will lower the resonance of the interior somewhat. Reducing high frequency components of the sound you hear will render the noise more tolerable. However, companies such as BMW go to great lengths to reduce the total resonance of their cars. This makes them feel much more solid and quiet. They hang dampeners on things like exhaust pipes and elsewhere to do this. Doing what you did well make the car feel more solid, but not reduce the sound pressure level very much. It will feel good when you closer the doors, etc. A sound level change of 3 dB is the threshold of perception. 10 dB as twice as loud. You will just notice 4/5 dB. Especially if the reduction came from higher frequency components of the noise.
You should have definitely put sound deadening on top of the fender liner in the wheel wheel, it’s what a lot of manufacturers do and tires are one of the top 2 source of noise on cars even beating wind noise sometimes. You HAVE to do the wheel well if you want good results. It would be awesome if you did that and did a update video.
Very nice stuff. I just did a lot of this to my 2017 Civic... Honda really made it easy to get rid of a lot of the panels. Only noticed a bit of a drop in road noise but the frequency response from music just sounds so much better. And it makes your doors sound like vault doors too!
The door thud vs clang is always a good reason in itself 😂 Definitely agree with you, my motivation for deadening was audio too & it does make a decent difference. I would like to do the roof on my Golf doors & floors done), but the agony of broken trim clips deters me!
@@everyhandletaken Yeah I have a Yaris and I taking the entire headliner down was going to be insanely hard and downright risky. II was able to get away with only disconnecting the rear part and getting it to lower enough for 98% of the access I needed for full coverage. Once I seen that I had almost full access I went for it. Did the full roof treatment and turned it into a giant bass trap/igloo from the hellish sun using really thick and sticky 120 mil CLD + closed cell foam with foil facing and 2 layers of 1" Fibermat to act as a bass trap/sound absorber and wow did it work well. It's always helliishly hot here but if I cover my windows, heat no longer gets in. I was able to custom make a pair of "sunglasses" out of reflective bubble wrap that I hold down with some rubberized magnets to really keep heat down even in the hottest times of the year. That is pretty important because my amps refuse to work at the 140+ F + the car would get up to before I did this project. Now it stays ambient and the AC can cool my car down instantly, assuming I don't forget to put the "glasses" on. The best place to have sound absorbers are on the floor, ceiling and sides and some in the back and front (according to the science) and normally car roof/headliners do a fairly poor job of it, as there is just empty space up there causing too much of the surface area of your car to be reflective (a bad thing past certain percentages. Cars already have too many reflective surfaces, and cutting down on them in proper areas will help give you a better ratio of reflective/absorptive and diffusive surfaces for a more natural sound and better sound stage. Too much absorption is bad but so is too little. Same with diffusion or reflection. For the most natural sound you want a 30/30/30 ratio give or take, to create the effect of a larger space while keeping sound fidelity.
@@juqual78 you might have convinced me there, as heat wasn't really something that I had thought about, but completely makes sense. Thanks for the info!!
@@everyhandletaken Sure thing.I wish I could have video documented it like this.Dude but at last all I could do is share some info that I learned along the way
I was invested the minute you explained all three pads. I know you did this to show how much road noise or general noise in the cabin but I’m sure with the proper speaker setup now it would be a dream to go for a ride with your favorite music.
This is amazing. I've been wanting a scientific incremental layer experiment for years! This is exactly what I've been looking for. You should also look into weather stripping and next time you replace your tires see how much of a DB drop new or higher end tires give.
Continental does the Bentley tires. They have an acoustic treatment on the inner side of the tread. Bentley also has 3+ mufflers. Now that's going the last mile!
one of the things that reduces road noise in tires are continuous ribs; choppy/blocky tires make more noise (think truck mud tires) so you'll tend to notice at least a center rib on many tires.
It’s really nice to see someone like this guy out here doing damn good work. He’s highly detailed, competent, organized and honest. No BS, this guy is a rare human.
i hope you're wrong about him being rare. i'd like to think there are lots of people like him for the sake of all mankind but i totally get your point.
Thanks for the video, u got my respect for the amount of work and effort not only by diy and soundproofing your car but to show us the difference on the decibel for every layer u installed. Im driving a honda fit too and been always frustated by the road noise and always try to use a quite tire. Will be installing soundproof too. Thanks again
Sound deadening is really only useful for aftermarket stereo setups. It makes a world of difference to reduce panel rattle and keep sound from being 180 degrees out of phase and cancelling out noise. Quite simply the sound bouncing off one side of the cabin without sound deadening material will bounce back and noise cancel some of the sound. With the added material the sound can't bounce back anywhere, and will make your system sound more crisp.
This is the best video on soundproofing I've ever seen. I'm going to keep a copy of it in case I ever buy another car. I soundproofed my Toyota Yaris with self-adhesive butyl sheets and closed-cell foam. I didn't do it fully or with much attention to detail but I found the result to be well worth the limited effort I put into it. As a lot of the comments suggest this isn't just about sound reduction measured in Db, it changes the character of the noise for the better.
It would have been great to see what the temperature differences in the car were before and after. I would be interested in knowing if it made a big difference.
Most temp difference would be coming in through the glass, so it wouldn't make that much of a difference. Its similar to a house, you could put 6" of insulation in the walls/floors/ceiling, but would not notice much a difference if you had single pane windows. If you want to lower the heat that transfers into the vehicle tint the windows.
@@klubstompers That is what tint is for! Also keep in mind most economy cars have 0 insulation in the headliner/roof so adding a bit helps a good bit! My Yaris has about 24 square feet of roof space and since I did a full CLD/316 mil foam and 1" thick Fibermat, my car is far cooler. And yes tint has it limits so I made a pair of "glasses" for when I'm not driving and it got the temp down inside to ambient if not cooler! My car is headliner now insulated like a space ship and it's really paying off! Even when I forget the "sunglasses" there is a considerable reduction in the temp inside the vehicle, assuming it doesn't stay out there too long and get too much direct sun in the windows.
I think you may have noticed a larger difference if you held the meter in the other hand. Perhaps you were getting a reading of window noise which would be unaffected by your work. A now central location may have given more insight. Great video.
(I know this video is 2 years old.) Ways to further reduce noise substantially from the current application: 1-Remove the dash and treat the firewall completely to reduce engine noise. 2-Change the muffler to a quieter design. 3-Use a spray on undercoating on the bottom of the chassis. 4-Make sure the weatherstripping is in new condition around all the doors, windows, and trunk. 5-The option regarding a tire change is valid since the noise created by the tire has a major correlation with the tread design and sidewall height. 6-Wear earplugs. 😂 Excellent video by Repair Geek!
I had a set of Bridgestone tyres from Japan (17") with foam on the inside, they were noticeably quiet compared to other tyres on the same wheels. Love the video, very interesting
Great video! Thank you for your work and comments. 1 dB is noticeable to the average human. A 5 dB reduction is significant! the 90+ lbs of weight, while you might not feel it, will affect acceleration and city fuel economy. It would have been good to see a measured 0-60mph or 1/4 mile time.
The noise "profile" does change a lot in higer frequencies.... wich also are the most audible, so the difference is way more than the dB "rating" alone...
Terrific job! I've been considering this for some time, but I'm starting with a much noisier (92 Toyota Shortbed Pickup) vehicle with only the barest minimum of OEM sound deadener which is on the floor in various areas. No factory deadening in any other location. But I love this little "truck" and I'm getting closer to making a firm decision. Thanks again for another great job on another great video.
Any news on your Toyota? I've got a '93 single cab that I'm collecting materials for. I'm probably only going the first two layers, and then some thinner foam on the inside of the dash when I do mine - hoping to not break any dash parts in the process!
@@Spencer758 @Matt Rowan The problem on these older "tin can" type vehicles is that once you do all of the sound deadening treatment that is outlined here, it will be the thin windshield glass & side/rear window glass and their minimalistic seals, along with the insufficient door seals, that will allow A LOT of road noise and wind noise into the cabin! The change is VERY noticeable. The sound deadening DOES do a lot overall, and this is noticeable because your attention will now be shifted to up higher in the vehicle where you will hear the wind noise from the windshield & side glass, and road noise coming through the door & window seals. Still worth it IMO.
I think you did great putting so much in the car to lower road noise. However you missed a step for the wheel wells and firewall. For luxury vehicles the car companies will shoot in beta foam between the layers of metal in the wheel well, and firewall/dash area. Basically any area that you wont ever need access to should get filled with beta foam between the sheets/layers of metal.
Outstanding job. Thank you. For people watching the video, Remember another difference in high end cars is glass thickness. Thicker glass will help in the sound transmission. Plumping up older seals will help too. The old seals will allow more wind noise, just things for people to consider. I use spray sound deadner for areas the adhesive deadner can not go. I also use speaker box carpet on the back of plastic bits to stop their vibration & rattling.
Big props for a well thought out and produced video! Also for the complete removal of your interior! Anticipating and answering questions, editing with both decibel meter readings and audio comparisons! A tip or two having done the rear of my 2002 WRX Wagon to help drop the aftermarket muffler drone. I did a butyl layer, the gave the panel a rap test. If it resonated, I did a second and even 3rd layer as needed before the foam layer. I also applied the butyl to window pillars. I have yet to do the front, but the rear is noticeably quieter! My car is about 10 years older now, and am more afraid of killing interior connectors at this point… Michelin pilot 4 all seasons really quieted the road noise substantially, nice for our 2500 mile winter road trip recently! One other rule of noise is you will hear the loudest noise so the a,b, c pillar’s might be worth doing :) Like you said, the mass loaded floor is quieter than before even though the overall level didn’t change because other areas couldn’t be treated with it too. Super Video - you’ve provided a nice public service and some inspiration!! Being able to hear each other talk is a success!
Re: the droning exhaust. I've watched some videos on here, if you put a 90 degree elbow just before the inlet of the muffler facing the outlet in the same direction of the muffler, a straight section of pipe about the same length as the muffler, and then cap the end of the pipe, that's supposed to help a lot with reducing the droning.
Thanks for making this video, it was obviously a crazy amount of work. I had thoughts of doing this to my Nissan van (and it had literally no interior panels), but thinking about the amount of time and work caused me to procrastinate. Your video corroborated my thinking.
I did this to my 98 accord years ago. I stripped the whole interior, and used the butyl rubber everywhere, but I did two layers of it. I bought my sound deadening in big rolls, it was much cheaper that way. It was SOOOO much work, but damn! The doors, roof, trunk, everything were dead thumps when you knocked them. It made a massive difference.
Fantastic work! I'm really blown away by how much effort you put into this video and this little car. Hope the car lasts you a long time! Greetings from Germany
On the topic of tire noise, I got a set of Pirelli tires for my Mini that are incredibly quiet (I think they're the Cinturato P7). It's amazing how much difference it makes. Love the idea of going the next step and doing the sound-deadening too. I'm assuming this wasn't a sponsored video, but if not I think the company owes you a thank-you note. Your video answered all the questions I had about the process. Also, I'm guessing you'd agree that the noise quality was improved as well (i.e. the noise that remains isn't quite as harsh).
Thanks for the inspiration! Even after upgrading my tires, I got tired of the endless road noise so after watching this video and a good few others I decided to do this to my first gen Toyota Yaris. I went a bit further however and also did the roof, wheel wells and A-pillar/firewall area. I added a 4th layer over this setup in key areas: A sound absorbing fiber material called Fibermat (3M Thinsulate works just as well but cost a bit more ) to key areas for extra sound absorption. I got a -8 DB reduction at 70 mph which is just night and day. I added a ton of hit to my headliner and it acts like a huge bass trap/sound absorber, which really helps with sound stage up front and keeping bass tight. Also something I think most people miss is butyl rubber rope. It's cheap and you can use it to tie together the frame of your car with the sheet metal exterior, ect. Toyota uses a ton of bracing so I squished it between every single brace and frame connection that I could and the vehicle now feels as tight as it did when it was brand new. Before I even put a piece of CLD on the roof, the rubber rope that I pushed into the bracing and sheet metal made everything way less resonant and noisy. I was able to get rid of every single creak and annoying sound the car had developed over 15 years just by using about 100 feet of it. Amazing! It was a pain in the butt to do this to every single joint in the car but boy did it pay off. I've never even driven a new car that feels this tight and well put together and I've been in a few. 0 rattles even if run over a huge speed bump at 5mph. I slightly modified and shaved the foam insert portions of my door panel, so I could use 1 solid sheet of that Fibermat for the entire door and it blocks a ton of extra sound. Doing this and treating the front wheel well and mud flaps the same way was of course the biggest improvement when it comes to lowering noise. From my experience, you could literally leave all of your seats and headliner in and just work on the doors/front wheel well/ A frame to get the most reduction in sound. That being said I personally went all the way due to wanting to make a sound system shine and I've largely accomplished that. The bass is incredibly tight and you can hear the quietest passages quite easily. No rattles or buzzing, even in the doors UNLESS I crank it to beyond deafening levels. The bad thing is it cost me about $2500 dollars to do it with 1/3 of the cost in the Fibermat alone (ouch) The good news is that I can reuse most of the fiber and MLV if I decide to junk the car down the line. Unlikely because these cars last forever when properly maintained. Would I do it again? If I had the money and time, yes. 💯 If I was short on cash I would do the wheel wheels and doors and maybe buy some noise cancelling headphones :) Cheers and good luck on all your future projects!
Awesome video. Subscribed! Fellow DIY er here. I think one of the factors for the big difference in DB after the closed-cell foam application might have been the butyl rubber sealing off the holes in the doors. I have sound-deadened 3 vehicles, and I noticed a big difference on the two that I sealed off the door holes vs the one that I didn't.
Actually if you have a higher end vehicle and lower end vehicle, you can hear the differences and I do own both, a Honda hrv and expedition, the honda you can hear the road and its loud in the inside, where the expedition is just all kinds of quiet and the seat comfort level is unmatched by the honda, this is a really good and informative video, thsnkyou.
Thanks for the video. By the way, a 3db difference is twice as loud to the human ear. So every 3bd is quite a significant difference. In car audio in order to make sound twice as loud(3db) you either double your speakers or double your power. I am definitely doing this to my truck and Infiniti. I will do my fire wall with dash removed. That’s where most engine and wind noise comes from. I will also put a rubberized coating under the floor, firewall and fender wells on the exterior of the vehicle as well to help with road noise.
@@elviscaragea4433 it been a while so I looked it up. A 3db difference is a doubling or twice the wattage. I tried to find the db that everyone agreed on and it seems it’s all over the place! I saw 3,6,9, and 10db?? Now I’m confused. They were talking about spl dbA weighted and unweighted. Then, dbm, dbV, dBFS scales? It says to double spl requires a +6dbA change. It also says doubling wattage/power only yields a +3dbA increase in spl, doubling surface area of speakers/cone area only increases by +6dbA. I also read on another forum that 10db not sure to what kind, sounds twice as loud. They make this very confusing. My bad, I was wrong. Double the power is 3db increase. Doesn’t mean it’s twice as loud, just a noticeable difference. Thanks for making me research this again. I’ve just gotten back into audio again. Last time was late 90s- 2005. Everyone back then was saying 3db was twice as loud. Guess they and myself were wrong. Good to know.
@@jlev505 is ok, i get it this way, i think 3db is half as loud, 6 dp one time as loud and 10dp 2 times as loud. 🤔🤷♂️ i know in speakers you can get 3db+ by adding a reflex port or a second driver. try to cover a sub pot, you will se that is a big difference
My guess is that part of the reason for the less than expected change is that most of the noise in a car like that comes from panel gaps. More expensive cars have much smaller gaps between the body panels, which drastically reduces the amount of wind noise that the sound deadening has to cope with. From your results, I would assume that the biggest improvement for the least effort is going to be just covering all exposed interior metal with the butyl rubber stuff, once you've removed the interior. I also have to wonder about putting sound deadening in the wheel wells under the wheel well covers, since you mentioned that most of the remaining noise came from the wheel wells and engine.
Well done!! This is an excellent video! I just bought a different car 2 months ago and I am big time into sound quality. I have been doing sound treatment on my '22 WRX whenever time permits and so far, I have done the doors, the trunk area, including the spare tire well, the rear deck sheet metal, the interior rear deck plastic, and the roof. Along with replacing the 4 door speakers, I have 46 hours vested in this project. I have had excellent results with Soundshield. It is a 3-in-one product that is very easy to work with. My last stop will be the floors.
I added chapters to this video because this video is so long. If you guys have questions check the chapters of the video and you may very well find your answer. Thanks for watching.
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Does the butyl rubber also reduce heat from the tranny, and exhaust pipes running under the car ? if so how many degrees would you say it reduced ? thanks
@@HOTRODRICO the foam does more for heat than the rubber. This being a FWD car it doesn't have much for trans heat. With the entire interior covered in foam it does make a noticeable difference in the insulation.
Be VERY interested in temperature change with this insulation. Inside ambient temp vs. outside temps, in hot and cold weather. Great video.
This first and third layers are way more easier to install….if you use oven mitts and warm up pieces in a oven(low heat)to just enough to make them compliant….rub them into place with mitts ….try it you’ll never do it the hard way again…cheers
How long did each process take? Interior removal, layer 1,2,3, and then full reinstall?
I am a retired Mercedes Benz technician. Here I am talking about only S class. Yes they engineered to be quite. Every inch of this car has extraordinary insulation including very heavy padded floor carpet. It is so heavy that flooded car carpets are impossible to remove by one person, even though it is divided in 4 sections. Your job is outstanding and very laborious. Once you get old ( 60s ) you won’t believe that was you, who can perform such a hard work. I enjoyed and appreciate your each minute of hard work. Thanks 🙏
Mercedes also likely uses thicker glass. Sound deadening alone won't do the job
@@zelowatch30 Not only that, the vibration of the engine itself is also a great deal. Sound dampening of the engine compartment too. And the quality of sound on such a luxury car is vital too, 30db of jazz music doesn’t sound the same as 30db of me scratching the blackboard with my finger nails. Small things such as the door thunk, exhaust note(Lexus tasked Yamaha music division to specifically tune the engine sound in the cabin for the LFA so it sounds like a ear porn), or even just a combination of wind and tire noise.
@@franksun4017 I didn't know you could do much about the engine part.
As you have the experience yourself, would this help much with oldtimers like a volvo 245? Thanks in advance!
@@emielcors Sound deadening can help almost any car as long as you are willing to put in the work to get the required coverage. The less deadening there is from the factory the more you will benefit (in exchange for adding weight to older, lighter cars). One thing that will happen though is that if you greatly reduce road noise, a lot of other noise starts becoming apparent. A trim piece squeaking quietly that you couldn't hear over road noise may become very apparent. You can track down these friction points and put adhesive backed felt between the panels.
As a person who have disassembled totally sound proof cars and noisy buckets, i've never seen something like that in the video that people install.
Quiet cars have two differences on the interior:
1) Thicker glass like BMW and Mercedes going with better weather seals on the doors
2) Triple as thick and heavy carpet with integrated foam pads compared to normal cars
When you want to absorb sound waves you need volume and density in sound absorbing insulation eg dense foam pads, rock wool etc, if you just make the sheet metal heavier and add mass with the things in the video what you do is just absorb the resonance of the metal so it usually tunes to lower frequencies and the best thing it does is get rid of rattling.
It might seem like it reduces noise but only because the chassis now tunes to a narrower frequency spectrum, and in fact those material are sound reflecting not sound ABSORBING, meaning any sound produced will be reflected till it fades out.
If you are looking to sound proof a car save your money and install some pads like in this video in vital areas like in transmission tunel, near the muffler, in the center of the door skin, some roof, the firewall etc, you'll see that most are already installed from the factory so next step is to install some new weather seals and grab a Mercedes ML carpet or similar from the scrap yard cut it up to pattern and install it under your stock one.
I put two bits of foam in my ears and the difference was AMAZING.
That’s terrible
ROFLMAO🤣
Hahahahahahahaha
How was the install? Are you going to win awards?
earplugs may do a better job
As an audio engineer I think you’ve limited yourself to analyzing decibels which is just a measure of loudness when in reality what is evident from the video and even more important in my opinion is the frequency spectrum was reduced to the lower vibrational waves which will never go away unless you replace the floorboard with a few inches of lead. You have successfully reduced the noise and loudness of the mid and high frequency range of hearing which clearly results in less harshness while driving leading to reduced fatigue and a better driving experience.
I noticed that as well. The difference was in the frequencies more than volume. He can hear better because there is less competition in the mids.
I also think the biggest source of noise was likely from the glass
Exactly, like i wear air tight silicon reusable earplugs while riding my motorcycle and while revving it only sounds bassy cause of the vibrations and without earplugs frequencies above 4khz are too much. Definitely if you check equalizer it has shifted in lower range in this video after layering.
which is also the reason the model 3 is so noisy.
Excellent video!
FACT:
On the Jazz/Fit or any Hondas, the biggest reduction of road noise/tyre roar comes from extensively treating the FRONT fender chamber and fender liners. The road noise creeps out via that tall thin gap behind the front door hinges.
The fender liner must be lined with Dynamat type of constrained layer dampener+foam, while the chamber should be sprayed with underseal. Most importantly, the tiny airspace directly behind where mudflaps reside shd be stuffed with waterproof material such as Thinsulate.
This will give significant reduction of road noise which must be BALANCED by a reduction of engine noise by treating the underside of hood.
And then, you can progress to the next most significant area (in order of importance):
2. The 4 doors
3. The 2 rear wheel humps
4. Front floor
5. Rear floor
6. Roof (the last).
For a further highly noticeable reduction in exterior noises, and done to all my Hondas:
Install 3M additional rubber door seals. Stuff THINSULATE into both A-pillars as both are hollow with tiny holes acting as a flute, and amplifying windnoise and tyre noise that slams onto the 2 pillars.
In your situation, since you hv even used MLV, thats excellent. But you have missed out 4 critically important areas that can give you another approx 4db of reduction:
1. Front fender wells (super critical)
2. Under undercarriage (shd be sprayed with any suitable compound or just plain undersealant) Significant difference.
3. Stuffing A and C pillars with Thinsulate.
4. Additional rubber door seals.
All the above were done to my 9yr old Honda City and the results were marvellous! Avg 8db of reduction at 80kmh over the same stretch of tarmac. No MLVs used.
Even the Honda mechanics noticed the significantly quiet interior😜
This is the best in depth comment so far and I hope it gets pinned. I’m gonna use this as reference for my Honda Fit
Don't you worry about stuffing material into cavities just becoming a thing to hold moisture, even if it is waterproof condensation can form on it and then lead to rusting from the inside out. Thinking of doing this to a classic car for reference.
@@admiraldirtbag4336 most modern cars are zinc coated on the inside, so rust is no longer an issue. However, in a classic car, that could become a problem, depending on your climate.
The real tutorial is always in the comments 👍🏼
Thanx for the info, bin looking to get a FIt for a daily and installing a SQ system in it also
If you attempt testing noise level again, use a spectrum analyzer instead of a db meter.
It will show you what differences there are at different frequencies rather than just a general noise level.
Yeah I noticed the noise in the car seemed to be much higher frequency after all the deadening he did.
You can also see this in video edit software usually
maybe he should have two or three meters at different locations?
@@MechaneerI think you misspoke. It’s obviously much lower frequency after the install. That’s the intention of these products as well.
@@corbinslaymaker3346exactly. The entire point is to lower the pitch/frequency of the noise. It’s a way to get a more subjectively quiet environment relative to what just an SPL meter will tell you. A higher frequency at the same SPL as a lower frequency will sound subjectively louder.
Having 3 different layer tests throughout one video was by far the most in-depth I’ve seen someone go on this topic. Well done.
5 layers if you count "bare" and "finished"
thats because they arnt suposed to be layered like this.
Definitely was!!!
I have successfully removed a LOT of drone noise and NVH (noise, vibration and harshness) from my car after doing four things that made a big difference. (And I had like everyone else started off by trying to get things quiet using butyl mats/dynamat etc. I realised that that had a very limited effect and beginners usually end up sticking down way too much of the stuff and later regret it because you start thinking how much you’ve weighed the car down by. And a year or three down the line you end up taking two thirds of it back out - or trying to). Here in England I run a 2011 Ford Mondeo (Fusion) estate/station wagon. MY FOUR BIG TIPS for INSTANTLY reducing noise (REMEMBER - you are NOT going to get your sub-$25thousand dollar car to hush like a Bentley. BUT - you can get a LONG way towards it.) NUMBER ONE - REPLACE YOUR TYRES. If you want quiet, you need to LIFT the car further away from the ground and have less tyre in contact with the ground. So run NARROWER tyres with a TALLER SIDE WALL and if you can a SMALLER RIM SIZE. I replaced my 215 55 R17 tyres with 205 65 R16 tyres on replaced 16 inch rims. This dramatically reduced the rolling drone of the tyres on the road and gave a softer ride because the taller side wall raised the car further above the ground as well as reducing the contact with the ground. Yes you will get less of a sporty ride but I’m not interested in a sporty ride. NUMBER TWO - INSERT SURGICAL TUBING into all your door seals. You need to improve resistance to outside sounds coming in. Adding surgical tubing into all your door seals makes them nice and snug. Don’t go TOO tight though - get the right tube width - or else you won’t be able to shut the doors and you’ll feel real dumb. NUMBER THREE - Buy cheap ‘RECON FOAM’ cut it up into small cubes and shove it compacted into all the empty cavities under the trim around the console, footwells and glove compartment. You wouldn’t believe how many just open holes there are in that area doing nothing but causing sound from the engine and up from the ground to reverberate around. Foam (NEVER USE SPRAY FOAM - it will enter places you really don’t want it to get and you will never get it out in the event of a repair requirement) dampens all that NVH and contributes to the multi-pronged solution we are going for. You need to do a LOT of things to add up to removing those decibels. NUMBER FOUR - Go to the back of the car. On most cars under the rear bumper on the left and right corner areas hidden away you will find a one-way ventilation flap on each side of the car. These are interior pressure flaps that allow air to escape from the car when the doors are closed and to allow ‘used’ air to escape from the cabin as new air enters from the front air vents. BUT they usually are located behind a very large cavity that sits adjacent to the rear wheel arches. In some cars you can reach into this large empty cavity through the back hole at the rear of the small felt door/closet you find in the left or right wall of the boot/trunk - the little hidden hole you might put an emergency traffic cone or yellow jacket in for example. I discovered these cavities causes a LOT of droning noise. The noise from the rear wheel comes straight through them, reverberates and comes out through the interior rear air escape vents. FILL ONE OF THESE CAVITIES UP! Don’t fill both - you need one to maintain the ability to release the cabin air pressure remember - and often the fuel fill area prevents access to one of the cavities depending on if you have a left or right hand drive. But if you can get access to one side - fill it up tight with old rags, recon foam, old carpet that can be scrunched up - you want as much as possible to remove cavity space that creates reverb. Use anything not too heavy but DENSE. So recon foam, being more dense, is a lot better at dampening and muffling drone than, say, bubble wrap. Pack it in tight - and there’s room for a LOT of foam and rags in there. The more you stuff in the quieter you'll get. This for me REMOVED 80 to 90% of the heavy drone in the back of the car - which had been particularly irksome on long motorway journeys. NUMBER FOUR POINT ONE (!) Not essential but this improved my car dramatically - If your car is one of those that tilts down slightly towards the front end (to allow for the backend to dip slightly and the car to even out when the trunk is fully loaded) buy a pair of polyurethane lifting spacers to sit at the top of your front struts. Your garage can fit them for about $250. They again move the front end higher off the ground, away from the noise of the road. So coupled with the tyres we’re really changing how close we are to the noise of the road. Plus they make the car sit more evenly and look a lot better... SO These are my main tips for really getting to a quieter, pleasant drive. And they have really worked for me. I wish you all the best with your own particular car - every one has its quirks and every one will have slightly different solutions. It's a lot of sometimes unpleasant work, but persevere and you can get a nice result.
Hell of a good idea man
Your point about the tires makes a lot of sense. My 1996 Oldsmobile wagon is so much quieter than my 2015 Honda CR-V, and I think it’s the combination of ride height, smaller wheels, narrow and tall sidewall tires, that are behind it.
I have sound deadened a large sprinter van and can confirm that 20% coverage of butyl rubber works perfectly. Place a square of butyl in the center of large panels to stop reverberation. Don't bother with tightly pressed curves because they don't reverberate. Olny use the closed cell foam on inside of side, roof and door panels. Forget the vinyl, stock carpet is fine.
High end cars with double glazed windows are the quietest you will see. A very limiting factor with cheap cars is thin glass which lets in lots of outside noise.
I've wondered if ceramic window tint helps with noise. They even make clear ceramic tint that can be used on windshields.
It would probably help to wrap the butyl around the edges of large panels as they are most prone to reverberation.
@@bradh6185it will not help. Only pie glass glue glass
@bradh6185 ceramic tint only really helps with uv/sun light.
Yeah there's heaps of videos from Vanlifers about this. They only deaden the middle of each panel as that is the source of most noise. Saves a lot of work and $$$ for the same result
this is a video that ask people NOT to do the hard work by themselves, 'cause it's too damn hard. Thanks. I cannot image, how much planning, how many miles of test drive, how many hours of research, all of these spent on this video. Huge appreciation. I cannot do it.
I put over 50 miles on the car just test driving to get the various sound levels at different stages.
@@RepairGeek
Wow. You drive one way of my daily commute. Life must be so hard for you.
@@Peter-ff1tp your daily commute is over 100 miles? That’s kinda horrible ngl
@@Peter-ff1tp congrats your daily commute is fucking miserable, you get an award!
@@Peter-ff1tp Oh sorry, I didn't realize it was a contest. We're all very impressed with how much time you waste every day. 😂
Nice work! The decibel scale is logarithmic, so even a 1.5-2 dB drop like you had in the early stage is pretty significant
Yes. 82dB is like 1.5-1.6 times as loud as 80dB.
@@benjamin4321 Base 10 logarithmic actually.
I love math.
but human ears are also logarythmic so it doesn't matter
talking just loudness, usually a 2dB difference is negligible... anyone can do an experiment to get a feel of what +/- 6 dB is: play a song on your phone and listen to it from one feet away then step further to 2 ft.
that's a -6dB reduction in loudness (SPL vs 2x distance). do the distance math for a 2dB reduction.. barely noticeable difference in loudness :}
THAT being said, the road noise is comprised of many pitches and eliminating SOME of them will not reflect in the total dB count as much as in the dB reduction of certain frequency ranges.
and that's what the video shows, some fqs are clearly quieter, and being somewhere in the mid fqs, that helps a lot as our ears are more sensitive to the fq range of the human voice... hope this helps, take it easy
I did an entire 80 series landcruiser . Floor, doors, roof firewall and tailgate with foil and foam. took me 50 hours to strip, then install and reassemble. The difference in that particular vehicle was amazing.
Tip for viewers= if you can still see the diamond pattern in the foil, you have NOT rolled it down enough and results will suffer.
Getting ready to do this same thing on my 80 series amidst an engine swap. Thanks for the tip! How many square feet of one layer did you think you used?
@@clockworkleather120
@@clockworkleatherhello brother, I want to do the same in my car, will. it reduce the road noise.
You should post a video of how it sounds etc
@@RiseUpRoyalAce I dont own the 80 anymore, but I would say it was comparable to a newer suv, the difference was massive.
As someone that works in the NVH industry for a car manufacture, I will add that another thing you want to do when sound proofing a car is to cover up any holes that are not being used for bolts or plastic clips. Like at 25:55 on the left side where the wiring harness runs along below the doors, there's a small hole that can be covered just below the harness. Block off the open areas around the seat belt retractors, etc. Any open holes are a pathway for noise.
I also think some cars are just not designed with sound in mind. I don’t even have MLV yet on my car and mines sitting at 62db at 65mph. I believe this car was designed with noise reduction in mind so adding the first 2 layers helped it even more so
Perfect answer. Another additional step is to fill the void with a non-water retaining material. Polly fill stuffing. Some used fiberglass. Then once stuffed, cover the area up
This doesn't make that much of a difference in all reality but keep thinking it does
@@pitbullkngz7236 I've only been in the industry for 10 years and know nothing. Got it. What do you do exactly sir?
@JTube571 work on vehicles and been doing it for like 22 years the change those things you talk about are so minor you can't tell the difference your better off doing the sound insulation in the panels those small holes are so miniscule in the change the human ear doesn't notice
That final comparison gives me 2 impressions : You got rid of most of the high frequency hisses that are really irritating and you end up hearing the engine more than the road noise. I'm fairly sure (even without a drastic reduction in dB) that the result is a much less fatiguing noise compared to what it was before
Exactly. "Fatiguing." Longer trips should be easier in this car now, enabling the driver to stay more alert longer, and therefore safer.
Apparently it's possible to add too much of a certain type, maybe the CLD type. Supposedly you only need to cover 25-33% of the metal with closer to the middle areas.
Story of my life. I hear the engine more now then ever. I won't be tearing up my fire wall lol. That's too much puzzle
That is how I feel after doing my project but I went further and got even more (-8). Incorporate one of the two high quality fiber based sound absorbing materials (Resonix or 3M and do the wheel wells too.
The Fiber Material is very expensive but the 3M Thinsulate is insanely effective at sound absorption. Fibermat from Resonix is cheaper, specs the same for sound absorption and has an adhesive backing which helps in certain applications from my exp (door panels and headliner).
The key of course is to not compress these fiber materials or it doesn't absorb bass too well. You can however double them up for even better low frequency absorption and that is what I do on the large roof (24 square feet) of my Toyota Yaris. It acts like a huge bass trap and even helps the soundstage up front. Of course since doing this and the CLD/closed cell foam on the roof, i don't hear rain or wind noise there at all, which of course really helps keep the music sounding good. Only on the windows and it's way quieter that way.
Considering that every 3 db less, reduces the perceived noise to half for the human ear, you just reduced the noise in your car to less than half 👏👏👏👏
The sound db scale, is not linear for the human ear, it’s progressive 😉
No, 3 db is twice/half the sound energy. A 10 dB is required to double/half the perceived volume.
😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
4-5 DB is more than appreciable, 3 db means that the sound pressure is cut in half, the db scale is logarythmic so the work you done worth every penny and sweat invested.
going further involves redesigning the suspension links to the shell and of course, the powertrain supports.
even the tire choice have an impact on the noise transmitted to the shell.
The exhaust system have an important role to play, even if it seems not loud, it generates frequencies that are likely easier to transfer to the shell.
The noise that the easier to dampen is the noise that is not produced.
you done a very good job on your Honda Fit.
The reason sound pressure level uses a logarithmic scale Is because that's how humans perceive sound. A 3 dB level change in sound is generally considered the smallest change the average person can distinguish.
@@MilkyWayJoel the A scale ( Db A ) is the compilation of the sound corrected by frequency bands to conform to the human audition, it is usually the base frequency used on all sonometers, on higher grade sonometers, you can read, for each frequency band, the noise reading. It is very useful when performing noise reduction work.
@@jacquespoirier9071 A weighted scale has nothing to do with what I just said. As you said, it corrects for how human hear different frequencies relative to one another. That doesn't change how at a given frequency, it takes a large change in Pa (about double) for the average human ear to perceive it. Google "smallest db change person can notice." Skilled listener can hear 1 dB difference, average person can hear 3 dB difference.
@@MilkyWayJoel Decibel is logarithmic. A drop of -3 be it in dB, dBm or dBw means that you lost 50% or that the difference is a factor of 2. Has nothing to do with human perception.
@@sliwka621 Yes going by the measured numbers he successfully cut sound level down by half. My point is if that's the smallest change the average person can even tell in a back to back listening session, was all this work successful? I don't see how the answer is yes.
OH MY GOSH. I only did the back area of my Mazda and there’s no way I was adding recording it for other people.
No one will EVER know the work you put into this video and it’s greatly appreciated. Thank you
Was there much of a difference just doing the trunk? There’s a lot of bare metal in my trunk just begging for this treatment…. :)
It is a massive pain in the ass that took a full weekend for me to get done in my Accord.
Oh I know, freaking taken everything apart is a skill on its own
@@Philitron128 Did you do the whole car? I'm curious on your point of view and whether or not it was worth the effort.
@@tapig3322 I did. Even covered the trunk. Is it quieter than before? Yes it absolutely is. The sound profile of the car has also changed, it's a more pleasant noise. But it isn't silent by any stretch.
However, it is a lot of work and it is really time consuming. If you want to do a full car job, expect it to take at least two full days. Taking an interior fully apart is a massive pain in the ass, and putting it back together with extra material involved sucks even harder.
So take that as you will. I can't say that I recommend it because it's a massive time investment for what amounts to less and more pleasant noise.
Every youtuber who does comprehensive testing like this is worth their weight in gold. There is always room for improvement but I think saying anything less than "God bless you you did a wonderful job helping me do this/decide to do this" would be a straight up lie. It is a damn shame this video has 1.3 million views while you have 150-250k subscribers. When someone offers me information like this I follow them at least for a little while. Thank you again man
That's about 50% decrease in loudness. dB reading are not linear. Good video man.
You worked your butt off in a thorough and methodical manner. Thank you, and I'm not even going to sound deaden my car. It was cool watching you master a challenge!
23:51 rubber is dense so it absorbs bass. foam has a lot of aeration/tiny chambers, so it absorbs high pitched sound (the more noticeable noise.) this principal applies to literally any kind of sound deadening, auto or otherwise.
specifically, bass does not have a "tight" soundwave (if you saw a read out) and it can pass through foam really easy because of it. high pitched sounds ends up bouncing around a lot more, so something that's got a lot of chambers to catch it will ofc filter a lot out. that is a stupidly oversimplified explanation but I hope it made sense/explained a little more for those curious lol
@RepairGeek~ Excellent video! I'm a Speech Language Pathologist & Audiologist. I wanted to add some observations about your "sound db meter measurements" and the limitations of the type of db meter you used to measure the "Before and After" noise changes. Sound is measured by TWO aspects: # 1] Amplitude (Volume/Loudness): High Amplitude is Loud and Low Amplitude is Quiet. Amplitude is measured in Decibels (db). #2] The "Frequency" (Pitch) High frequency is a high-pitched sound, low frequency is, well, low. We measure frequency in hertz (Hz) and kilohertz (kHz), which is thousands of hertz.
Lower pitches travel further and pass through objects more easily than higher frequency sounds. Every sound we hear, including each other's voices, is a complex combination of different high and low frequencies. The frequencies and how we hear them can be impacted by the environment. All the pitches that make up any one sound are important to the experience of that sound and the removal or quieting of any of them, can change our experience of that sound. So, for example, when you hear someone talking on the other side of a door their voice sounds different because the higher frequencies in their voice do not carry through the door as well as the lower pitch parts. When high pitch sounds are quieter they sound like they are further away, because high pitch sounds/high frequencies don't travel as far or through objects as well as low pitch sounds/low frequencies. (It's why the kid in your elementary school class with the deep voice always gets caught talking in class... because their voice carries further and more powerfully than the kids with higher pitched voices.)
SO.....while your DB METER measured the gross AMPLITUDE/LOUDNESS, it did NOT measure the FREQUENCY/PITCH of the sounds inside the Honda while you were driving. This is why you perceived a bigger difference in the sound level within your car after you added the sound deadening than what your DB meter indicated. The DB Meter you utilized did not measure the change in Frequency/Pitch of the sound within the car!! Sounds, such as the tires whining against the road or howling of wind outside the car, are HIGH PITCHED SOUNDS. Your sound deadening install altered the Frequency/Pitch of those sounds too!!
I would venture to guess that, IF you were to MEASURE BOTH the DECIBELS and HERTZ within YOUR Honda Fit vs another Honda Fit of the same year, you would see a tangible and SIGNIFICANT IMPROVEMENT IN YOUR CAR after the sound reading install!! I believe you altered the interior sound much more than your test revealed!
Great video Repair Geek! ~~Christy~~
Thanks for explaining some of the science here Christy. I'm a mechanic by trade so measuring the frequencies never even crossed my mind making the video. Thanks for watching!
@@RepairGeek Question is, would you do this again?
Wow!....Thank you....🎉
Awesome explanation and more detailed than the average person would appreciate, thank you.
This looks like a lot of work, installing sound deadening and recording it. Thanks for making this video 👍
Recently restored an early 90’s Nissan. Adding butyl and foam inside the body and door panels made a noticeable difference in road noise, similar to what you observed. Replacing the 30 year old door and window seals made a significant difference as well. The amount of time you spent making this video is commendable. I like how you told the purpose and function of each layer, and what they will and will not do.
Great job! This reminds me of the very first car I did sound deadening on :)
I've learned a couple of things since how to make it easier/cheaper:
- The amount of butyl rubber is excessive here, you only need to cover 40-60% of the bigger flatter surfaces. Covering everything else typically only serves aesthetics.
- Use aluminum duct tape to seal butyl rubber edges for aesthetics and to prevent the butyl to squeezing out and sticking to whatever is there on a hot summer day. Vinyl seems to do great job covering the mess also!
- Thin foam doesn't help so much on the floor, I only had noticeable results using 6-10mm foam but that creates a lot of troubles when putting the interior back together. Factory carpet does some sound deadening as well, adding a thin layer of foam wouldn't change much.
- Factory deadening starts falling off after a couple of years, it's best to get rid of it if possible, some heat may help a bit.
- Don't push butyl rubber so hard, those squares on a foil side are there for a reason.
- Make sure it's warm enough when applying butyl rubber (high 70s and up), use heat gun otherwise, especially when doing doors/roof.
- Use heavier butyl rubber (like 150mil) on wheel arches and flat floor panels.
- Use some butyl rubber on the hood and try to squeeze into fender cavities and cover fender panels as well.
- Using foam on a ceiling doesn't help sound deadening as much but creates a strong heat barrier. This is great during warm season, not as good when it's below freezing since the layer of snow and ice you may have on the roof would never melt. Same applies to the hood panel.
- As far as efficiency goes, this would be my order: doors (including hatch/trunk), fenders, roof, firewall (very labor-intensive), hood, wheel arches, floor. Doing doors + fenders + hood is least effort and gives great results.
Well said. As a veteran installer, I'm always trying to get the younger generation to understand that more is not better. Sound requires science, and the brute-force approach is the antithesis of analysis.
Thankless work, to be sure, and there's no need to compound your misery.....
I haven't found any concrete good advice for wheel wheels. My truck has those carpet style liners so I was wondering if I where to sound deaden the wheel wells would I put material on the metal behind the liner or what? I have seen where some people put some deadening on the back of the plastic wheel liners that most vehicles use, but I'm not sure if that is an option.
I wonder if he covered the firewall too.
@@BSherrod Ever get an answer to that question?
😃
@@kevinyork4757 Not from this. I drive a ‘17 Sierra and did talk to one guy a few years ago that put some sound deadening on the metal in the wheel wells after putting all terrain tires on said that it helped a lot. It’s something I’m considering but the AT’s on my truck aren’t that loud.
The thing is, youre not only making road noice lower. You also optimize the overall stereo sound in the car. So i would say its absolutely worth it. Great work.
My upgraded speakers did not produce bass at all until I sealed the doors, and overall treating the whole car was a massive improvement in ride quality at highway speeds. The only thing you'll hate after doing this is the dominance of wind noise, and that is sometimes impossible to reduce without drastic changes.
I mounted great stereo to my car, sound-deadened and sealed the doors. Now listening lower-pitched and less polyphonic (e.g. modern electronic) music is a bliss. But listening to rock or metal is still unpleasant and harmful to the ears. I discovered there's a lot of reverberation and that's what pushed me to sound deaden the car, mainly to reduce it.
I just picked up a 1985 vw golf. It sounds like a coffee can rolling down the road. Your video helped a bunch!! Thank you for all the hard work!
Hands down this is the best most informative DIY vlog on sound deadening. I had watched at least a dozen videos before this and contemplated on whether to watch another and I am so glad I did ! So thorough with all the db tests at different intervals, exactly what I needed to help make a decision on sound deadening my 2nd Gen Scion xB. For me now I don't think I will bother with the cost and time to do this. So glad I came across this video. Thanks Repair Geek
I felt cheated wasting time watching all the other sponsored videos and started to believe it's just a scam. This convinced me it's doable and worth it.
I’ve been playing the same game with my landcruiser 80 series for awhile. I used the same tin butyl, a slightly thicker closed cell foam, and a giant sheet 45x70” of mlv over the cargo floor that I had left over from soundproofing pipes in my house (which works btw). My vehicle, like your Honda, already had segments of the floor and wheel Wells coated with a butyl skin in certain areas from the factory. I did not apply a foam underlayment under the mlv sheet, but if this video was out i would have. That being said I believe it still benefited quite a bit. Following the vehicle manufacturers line of thinking, I didn’t completely cover surfaces, but rather have large pieces of butyl staggered on the inside quarter panels like spots on a cow. For me, welding rust holes shut, and covering unnecessary holes with butyl made the biggest difference. I can also recommend from experience, a sprayed asphalt/rubberized undercoating on the bottom of the body makes a big difference for sound. Particularly in the front and rear exterior wheel Wells
which undercoating spray product did you use?
@@trongducthinhnguyen8576 3M
my buddy sound deadened his car and he also had some subs. It really made the bass feel super clean and crisp due to no rattling at all. Just pure bass. Im definitely doing this on my miata before subs
That is why I wanted to take on this project. It wasn't really about blocking all the sound outside but making sure the sound inside was good.
I prefer SQ so I knew I'd have to put in some work to not have bloated bass and a million sound reflections bouncing around giving me a headache.
I found out that if you make the headliner a huge bass trap, that a good chunk of bass issues , get cleaned up. That or have 2-4 subs :)
I studied noise control at university. I wouldn’t expect a lot of reduction from treating the floors, roof and firewall since the window glass has no treatment and I suspect a lot of direct noise radiation comes from the glass. I did a “poor man’s” treatment of my car with limited results. Thanks for your video! I won’t waste time or money trying to do a deluxe treatment. Clearly a case of diminishing returns!
he used cheap products AND left out many products in areas that actually matter most.. Also it is important to note every car will return different results. I was able to drop over 10db in my accord. But i put much more material in my car and esp in the weak areas like doors and roof. There is a science behind it and if you dont understand it then it is pointless.
@WetLettuce-kc2qm Depends how luxury. A lot of lux cars will have thicker glass, which is great. But even better, some cars like S class, Genesis etc, actually have double layered side windows, and acoustic front windshields.
Also improving the aerodynamic of the car helps.
Get rid of that roof rack.
More luxury tires not geared for high performance driving but with softer rubber and sidewalls, smoother treads with fewer aggressive tread blocks.
That's the thing you also wanted to explore.
It's a give or take exchange in other performance.
@JayeBass please expand on this or even better make a video following up on this in the correct manner
Quieter tires, sound deadening the engine bay and wheel wells/liners
This is a fantastically documented account of sound deadening a car. The video is logically laid-out and the comparison between each layer makes it that much more thorough. Thank you very much.
People doing van conversions should see this. There's alot of speculation in that field.. This video was very methodical and we'll laid out. Thanks.
Ive deadened more vehicles than almost anyone else i know and i can confirm - it makes a massive difference. Not just for insulation but it really does make an audible difference. And remember! Every 3db is is twice the volume meaning 150db is twice as loud as 147db.
I usually question the return of these type of work with only 1 or 2 db lowered. Knowing it now, it's worth the effort.
Every 10db is twice the perceived volume in general*
It's such a pleasant change to find a video that doesn't dumb down a subject.
This is amazing! One major source of noise, especially at higher speeds, is the air passing the car.. check on your door seals, make sure they are not cracking, are elastic and have good surface contact. For some cars there are even comfort seals for extra noise reduction.
Exactly what I was thinking :)
Yeah this is what I normally notice on road trips. Wind noise whipping across my car. Been thinking of getting the sticky back foam tape to help the door seals.
Yeah many times you can find pretty good deals on these OEM seals and if you are having whistling at your door many times these are the reason why.
I was able to use some closed cell foam tape to make it work even better by carefully adhering it along it's opposing side for a better seal. I didn't even notice the seal being off until I did this project however heh.
At the end of the video you said there was pretty much nothing else you could have done to reduce noise. There is one practical thing that most people may not know about…
I’ve been doing autoglass for 10 years now and when you get your windshield replaced, you usually have some options. (The autoglass company usually wont even list them because people usually decline)
Anyways when you get your windshield replaced there is a base windshield, and a lot of cars have an option for acoustic interlayer, which is basically adding an extra layer to the windshield to reduce noise on the road. This option is usually around 100$ more.
I checked for the Honda Fit, they dont have an option for the acoustic interlayer.. but the OEM manufactured windshield may be thicker.
You can also request that the autoglass company install foam around the perimeter of the windshield, which is something that is never done or requested but definitely known about in the autoglass world, as a lot of OEM windshield come with foam strips around the perimeter of the windshield.
I've done a lot of sound deadening and the area that helps the most is the doors and wheel arch's. sound mostly comes from the wheel arches and the glass. Apply fabric to the arches and back with deadening or heavy foam. The floor makes the least difference. Firewall is also a good location. You can use expanda foam in sealed panels
you are so right,. i applied killmats to the wheel wells both inside and outside, and the tire noise is much reduced. In my opinion, the most annoying noise is tire noise, once you get rid of that, the wind noise is kinda ok.
@@walltiger6603 Do you have any information on how to apply to the wheel wells? I was wondering about that. There should be something you can apply to the wheel wells directly around the tires to change the way sound resounds.
@@kevinyork4757 :take the wheels off and apply the killmax directly to the wheel wells.
I'm not sure what car you are having. But different car has different characteristics.
I'm assuming cheaper cars have chassis or body structure that is more prone to transmit more sound to the undercarriage, and they may have torsion beam rear suspension with less absorbent suspension rubber mounts,... those types of car will transmit plenty of sound to the floor.
@@walltiger6603 Do you mean to take the plastic out of the wheel wells, or apply it to the plastic wheel wells? (inside or outside of plastic if plastic?) I actually like the idea of not pulling the carpet up..
Great work! I also tried to sound proof my car and I searched so many disassembling videos of some expensive cars and realised that they also have deadener on the inside of the car doors + sound absorbing material such as felt just the thick same as the carpet (roll royce/ mercedes/ lexus/ bentley/volvo), they also put thick felt between the plastic cover wheel well and the chassis for absorbing road noise, next to the air pressure balancing vein in the trunk they covered by felt + some foam blocks, at some pillar covers they also add foam or felt.
I did make the soundproofing for my car including 4 doors, 4 wheel wells with some damping stuffs bought online with butyl, soft foam,thick felt. The doors when closing are much more better - feel more solid and there is only little tires sound echoing from the road concrete separator through the doors when driving on the high way than before.
I also recorded my car sound when driving on the harsh road and the result was the frequency from 50hz to 1500hz is the most annoying sounds. I felt that it came from the chassis vibrating not the sound from the tire because I drove very slowly. So I think that adding some damping material to the flat iron surface to absorb the vibrating will lead to result as you did to the floor.
17:01 compared to 17:09 there is a change with the comfort fan setting. See the dial move from position 2 or 3 down to the off position. No, I don’t think this was misleading… but I do think it may have impacted your reading by some unknown amount of decibels. What ever the case, wonderful video!
Great work, - well done! I know how much of a pain it is, as I've done quite a few of my cars over the years. Best result was with a Lotus Elise, but that car started with virtually zero sound deadening, so it made a dramatic difference. One thing I found during my various projects, is that removing the the wheel-well liners, spraying heavy-duty deadener into the bare wheel arches, then also coating the inside of the liners as well, made a dramatic difference to road/tyre noise. Just as much as doing the floor with butyl + foam.
In the lotus I also did HD thermal + laminated felt on the bulkhead (firewall). Overall, it made the little beast an acceptable daily drive and I could throw away the earplugs (literally).
Even the wife would then ride along...
Thanks for the video!
This is what I was thinking
Great work! Quick note - tires made a huge difference on my Ford Transit Connect. The stock Continentals were awfully loud (and ended up failing prematurely due to separating belts @ only 30k miles), and we got some Michelin Defenders. MUCH more quiet and comfortable. Also looking at installing some of this sound deadening material.
About a year ago, I purchased a new 2022 Nissan Versa as a commute car (I'm 96 miles door-to-door to work). I hadn't even thought about sound-deadening until watching this. And this tutorial is so complete, I can't see a reason not to do it.
Take your time and do a bunch of research before you even get started. I've already started doing it to another economy car of mine and I'm sure the results will be pretty fantastic.
Thank you for the most comprehensive car sound deadening guide and results comparison video on TH-cam! I've watched nearly all the sound deadening guides on TH-cam and this one is lightyears ahead of them. I really appreciate the methodical comparisons you have shown us. Great video and kudos to you! 👍👍
Just letting you know, results differ. I got -10db quieter resuts when I sound deadened my VW Transporter.
Nice work! I would also recommend insulating the A pillar trims with open cell foam sheets to absorb the wind noises, which Honda cars neglect. Also the door seals leave lots of redundant gaps when closed, again notorious in Honda cars. I would insert the door seals with silicone tubes, 0.15inch O.D should fit well, but expect to slam the door with the force needed on a European car for the first few weeks, lube with generous amount of silicone oil during insertion. With the doors firmly secured to the body while closed, you will notice a significant level of quietness with the intense work you’ve done to the floor previously. Let us know the outcome. Good luck!
How do you get into your a pillar
@@AgentOffice you would need to pull off the door seal and then pry open the A pillar trim with hands in the same way you did with the door panels.
@@Ray_Yang182 isn't there an airbag?
@@AgentOffice Pls take a look at the owners manual. If there is an airbag, I would suggest leaving it as is and focus on insulating the tailgate :)
@@AgentOffice u simply disconnect your batt before u pull it off to avoid deploying airbag however u want closed cell foam not OPEN
Also not anytime u remove a or b pillar there’s a special clip in there that in essence gets ruined u should always pre order new clips b4 hand they r a couple bucks usually square but 99% of ppl have no idea what they r doing thus why I don’t buy a used car from some fool who’s torn it apart knowing nothing (no offense to u personally)
-4 db of noise sound is about -63% reduction. So, your work actually was pretty darn good. I notice that you have not dampened the side panels yet. It may be worthwhile to do that since the metal on the side of the body is thin and wide. So dampening it may reduce the higher frequency "rattling" noise.
That's a massive amount of work, thank you for documenting it! Like you said with the sources of the sound, if the car is over 5-7 years old you might see great results from replacing the strut mounts since that's the load bearing rubber isolation between the wheels and the chassis.
Excellent work! One thing I think you could emphasize more is the pitch of the noise...the "after" clips had a noticeably lower average pitch than the "before" clips. High frequencies are being reduced much more effectively than low frequencies, which makes sense given the energy involved in producing the sound. The subjective improvement is impressive! Your meter is probably weighted to account for that somewhat, but the audio tells the story more accurately than the meter in this case.
I agree the raw audio tells a bigger story than the meter. Like I said later in the video I had no way of showing the direction the sound was coming from either.
you could always shove some polyfil into those empty areas in the dash and doors. Will help your speakers sound as well
i used the exact same materials in my 2017 Subaru Outback Premium this summer and I got similar results. Conversation is much easier and the interior noise is hushed more than the meter can measure. Maybe it's the pitch of the noise that changed; it's hard to describe but it's very noticeable. This was the first time I had ever used mass loaded vinyl under the carpet. I didn't glue or tape it down because the thick carpet will hold it in place. And I agree that it would be helpful inside the doors but almost impossible to install. It's too heavy, too thick and wouldn't conform well to the irregular surface of the back side of the door panel.
I would like to eliminate more of the noise from the wheel wells and would like to hear from anyone who successfully used a rubberized spray exteriorly.
Kudos for a well done video. The best one I've seen on this subject.
Try sticking the butyl on the inside of the tires before mounting them.
Its possible, you have to use Velcro strips in the corners and maybe a couple in the middle. I believe open cell is better for sound proofing but it absorbs water so not to good for cars lol. And I have also sprayed the fender wells of a couple of my cars. I did the whole underbody for rust prevention and just for looks honestly when I'm down there. Definite sound improvement though. Still biggest change is fatmat after you put those 2 12s and a 600 watt amp to your door speakers lmfao.
@The MBOD yes it will help but don’t expect it to be same as the E class. Mercedes are built from the ground up to be silent.
@The MBOD Your Subaru will never be as quiet as a MB. The Mercedes was engineered to be quiet from the frame to the windshield. You can't duplicate that in a STI, but you can make it much quieter than it is by following this video. Remove the seats and the carpet, lay down butyl rubber, lay closed cell foam over that and then Mass loaded vinyl on the top. Replace the carpet and seats and you'll be amazed at the improvement. You can also add the butyl rubber and the CLF to the interior of the doors but not the MLV...it's too heavy to stay in place.
@@ctrlaltdebug too hard to balance, you'll get the same result from filling them with water.
I would deaden the underside of the hood, wheel well inserts, rear hatch, and spray foam rocker cavities and B-pillar. Laminate / tint your windshield and windows. Check your door seals. Deaden your firewall and areas under dash.
It's worth mentioning that Decibels are an exponential measurement. A decrease in 5 DB from 80 to 75 is much more significant than from 45 to 40. I think the results were pretty good.
Edit: I see others have said this. Still a good video.
I used three layers of Peel and seal from home Depot to make it as thick as the expensive stuff and it was still cheaper
Great video. I'm currently falling down a sound dampening/deadening rabbit hole studying all of this and your video comparisons really helped. Thanks for your efforts!
Same!
If the dB meter can be set to show readings from, say, 20Hz to 5KHz, I think you'll see a greater dB drop because it looks like you've succeeded in reducing noise in this range. And that's a good achievement because our ears are more sensitive in this range of frequencies. Cheers.
correct to say we don't perceive high frequencies as well, but we also don't perceive low frequencies as well either. next to no adult human alive is hearing fundamental pitches as low as 20hz
to really see the change, use not only a DB meter but a spectrum analyzer as well (like the reading on some audio equalizers with them light bars). it tells the frequencie range where the sound is different
There's a MASSIVE change in the pitch of the noise. The best way I can describe it is tire hiss, the tire hiss sound of the tires on the pavement is drastically reduced. Thanks again for the video, this is VERY informative and I appreciate it. I'm in the process of trying to quiet down our 2022 Bronco while upgrading the horrible audio system to something that is much more enjoyable. This is a brand new territory for me when it comes to installing sound deadening and your video has been the best one I have watched out of maybe 10 videos that are covering this process. Thanks again!
I can definitely confirm that sound deadening the door skins is absolutely imperative to reducing overall noise in the vehicle and that you can definitely get away with using only the sound damping materials if you've got a decent quality of carpeting in your car. Another thing to note is that butyl rubber sound damping mats are largely equivalent in terms of how they function between brands and the only thing that is different between them is the thickness and durometer of the rubber layer and whether or not the aluminum has been stamped to more clearly indicate where you've pressed it to the panels. It is also worth noting that you can get this sheeting in a variety of thicknesses and, in the areas where there isn't much of a gap between the trim panels and the metal underneath, it can be worthwhile to purchase some thinner butyl rubber sheeting to place between them in order to reduce resonance. Another option instead of foam as the intermediary layer if you want more sound absorption is a layer of felt. You can totally just buy a bolt of decently thick, dense felt from a fabric store and use some spray-on adhesive to bond it to the butyl rubber layer. Actual wool felt is superior in sound absorption compared to synthetic, but it is also significantly more expensive, so buy what you can find and reasonably afford. You could also use the diamond quilted cotton fabric with batting as another layer of sound absorbing material for areas with enough space for it, such as between the inner door and the door card, behind the major interior panels, behind the headliner, etc. Fabric and carpets excel at absorbing sound and one of the easiest ways to cut noise in your car is to see if any aftermarket companies make a higher quality pre-cut and formed carpet for your vehicle and replace your existing carpet with it. Pile depth and density is extremely important here in the same way it is important when considering carpeting for a home theater. The deeper and denser the carpet pile, the more it absorbs and diffuses sound waves that attempt to pass through it. This is especially true for cars whose stock carpets are cheap, thin, low-pile stuff, as it offers very minimal sound absorption.
So is the doors the first place I should be adding these things? Or wheel well?
@@CrashCarson14 depends on the design of your car. If you want to sound dampen your wheel wells then the best solution is a coat of rubberized bed liner or undercoating. The more viscoelastic (rubbery) the better. Just remember to thoroughly scuff the panels up before cleaning and spraying or it won't stick as well. If you don't care very much about how it looks (it'll be largely hidden and shaded anyway) then some of these rubberized coatings can be brushed on. Just try to apply it fairly thick. It serves the same role as butyl rubber sound dampening sheets.
If the noise coming into your car is primarily the noise of things passing by you on the road, then do the doors first, followed by the floors and above the headliner. If it's mostly rocks and road debris clattering noises while you drive, then you'll want to do the wheel wells. If it's just engine noise, then you'll need to pull the dash to install some on the cabin side of the firewall and also on the floor, focusing on the transmission tunnel.
@@mndlessdrwer interesting yeah that makes sense. I’ve always wondered since most videos or things show entire installs. Not something most would do and due to cost and time I want to get the most effective sports first
@@CrashCarson14 It's a good question to ask, but the answer isn't as simple as you'd hope.
Well done video. This highlights how it's not just the decibel rating but also the pitch and quality of the noise. The "harshness" of that noise was greatly reduced with each layer.
You do NOT need 100% coverage, and this can be validated with knock-testing. It's especially easy to test with the roof, because when you tap again a proper application of CLD tiles on the roof it will make a very dead "thunk" noise as opposed to the hollow noise without the contrained-layer applied. This difference in sound is due to the panel's inability to resonate due to the increased inertia of the butyl layer.
You should also apply the CLD to the pillars, especially the larger C or D pillars, because they can act like an echo chamber. The inner door panels do not need it as much
Had I only covered half, I would have had people saying I should have used more...
@@RepairGeek I agree to what Rustler said that you need not cover 100%. I was surprised that you also covered the floor that already has factory sound-proofing.
You don't but I did slightly overlap some very high quality CLD that I got from Resonix and holy shit.
It actually hurts my knuckles to knock on it, unlike the other 3 types of CLD I used in my project. My friend at work did it and said wtf! (I agree) It's the lowest thunk I've ever heard. I used some Amazon Basics 80 mil and some 60 mil stuff on other less important sections and there isn't much comparison. Night and day thunks (high pitch and longer lasting thunk vs a nearly dead and almost inaudible thunk.
It doesn't even feel like I am hitting sheet metal but instead a VERY HARD hardwood like oak, save there is no resonance but both hurt your knuckles when you knock on, with a think OAK only being slightly less painful. It's kind of insane when you overlap it it seems.
I call it my Nasa Yaris because when I knock on those panels it feels like a spaceship. All I did was overlap 4-8 sheets of the stuff on the roof and rear quarter panels where my rear speakers would cause them literally flop around before treated. They still flop around a bit but are almost inaudible when doing so: I can't really hear my system outside of the car due to all these layers working together in unison.
Something you should be aware of is that the road surface together with the tires makes a massive amount of difference. So whenever you were recording different speeds on the road, you needed to record on exactly the same piece of road to leave that variable out.
Great project!! Regarding your DB meter. You needed a full spectrum audio analyzer so you could see the dbs for all of the audible frequencies at the same time. That last test was infact massively different, that last layer did make a difference but the db meter didn't capture that.
Your dedication to documenting the process and showing results is a rare sight to see.
You have my thumbs up.
Greetings from New Zealand. Huge respect to you for your professionalism in putting this amazing video together. It should be the blueprint for anybody considering undertaking such work. I’ve done some sound deadening work in my Nissan Sunny many years ago and while it greatly reduced drumming noise the reduction in road noise although noticeable was not great. I later went onto to spraying the wheel arches with a bitumenous type of thick spread which helped massively with tyre noise but eventually resulted in accelerated rusting where there were gaps as water off wet road surfaces would stay in these gaps for a very long time. That was in the early 90’s. Here in New Zealand the road sealing is done using quite coarse stone chips making road noise a real issue. I’ve driven an identical Nissan in Sydney, Australia where the road surfaces are of much finer chips and the the interior noise in the car I was driving was so much lower.
I enjoyed the video and learned a lot. Your Honda definitely sounded quieter. Regardless of what the meter showed.
Yeah you can really tell with the headphones. That is what sold me on doing this project. It's worth it, if you have the time and ability.
Nicely done. You are definitely not exaggerating the effort that went into this production.
Thank you.
I solved this problem years ago for my Mazda 626 by choosing reduced road noise tyres. The brand was Michelin and the difference was substantial and noticed by several passengers. It became a real joy to drive. As you say, touring tyres are not cheap, but they are very effective at lowering noise before it even enters the cabin. You may need to special order, but I was lucky and found a dealer with stock. I would 100% percent recommend this approach as a first step in reducing cabin noise
What was the name/type of your Michelin tires?
@@EthanFoose Michelin Primacy
Yes, I once changed to Michelin soft tyres, and they really reduced a lot of noise.
A few years ago, I bought new tyres for my 2013 Hyundai Elantra. I couldn't believe how much louder the road noise was. My friend told me it's because they put soft tyres on them so they sound quieter for initial sales. They don't last as long but they fool you into thinking it's a quiet car
Applying sound dampening, as this, will lower the resonance of the interior somewhat. Reducing high frequency components of the sound you hear will render the noise more tolerable.
However, companies such as BMW go to great lengths to reduce the total resonance of their cars. This makes them feel much more solid and quiet.
They hang dampeners on things like exhaust pipes and elsewhere to do this.
Doing what you did well make the car feel more solid, but not reduce the sound pressure level very much.
It will feel good when you closer the doors, etc.
A sound level change of 3 dB is the threshold of perception. 10 dB as twice as loud. You will just notice 4/5 dB. Especially if the reduction came from higher frequency components of the noise.
You should have definitely put sound deadening on top of the fender liner in the wheel wheel, it’s what a lot of manufacturers do and tires are one of the top 2 source of noise on cars even beating wind noise sometimes. You HAVE to do the wheel well if you want good results. It would be awesome if you did that and did a update video.
OOOOOH you are a smart guy ehhh? thank youuu :), my build wrecks this fool, put down D4s 200 Mil in winter, try rollin that
@@tedvanduzen8867 what the fuck are you talking about
Umm... _what_ , @@tedvanduzen8867?
@@assininecomment1630 putting deadener beneath the wheel well plastic is genius.
Ah haa! _Now_ you're making sense, @@tedvanduzen8867.
Very nice stuff. I just did a lot of this to my 2017 Civic... Honda really made it easy to get rid of a lot of the panels. Only noticed a bit of a drop in road noise but the frequency response from music just sounds so much better. And it makes your doors sound like vault doors too!
The door thud vs clang is always a good reason in itself 😂
Definitely agree with you, my motivation for deadening was audio too & it does make a decent difference.
I would like to do the roof on my Golf doors & floors done), but the agony of broken trim clips deters me!
@@everyhandletaken Yeah I have a Yaris and I taking the entire headliner down was going to be insanely hard and downright risky. II was able to get away with only disconnecting the rear part and getting it to lower enough for 98% of the access I needed for full coverage.
Once I seen that I had almost full access I went for it. Did the full roof treatment and turned it into a giant bass trap/igloo from the hellish sun using really thick and sticky 120 mil CLD + closed cell foam with foil facing and 2 layers of 1" Fibermat to act as a bass trap/sound absorber and wow did it work well.
It's always helliishly hot here but if I cover my windows, heat no longer gets in. I was able to custom make a pair of "sunglasses" out of reflective bubble wrap that I hold down with some rubberized magnets to really keep heat down even in the hottest times of the year. That is pretty important because my amps refuse to work at the 140+ F + the car would get up to before I did this project. Now it stays ambient and the AC can cool my car down instantly, assuming I don't forget to put the "glasses" on.
The best place to have sound absorbers are on the floor, ceiling and sides and some in the back and front (according to the science) and normally car roof/headliners do a fairly poor job of it, as there is just empty space up there causing too much of the surface area of your car to be reflective (a bad thing past certain percentages. Cars already have too many reflective surfaces, and cutting down on them in proper areas will help give you a better ratio of reflective/absorptive and diffusive surfaces for a more natural sound and better sound stage.
Too much absorption is bad but so is too little. Same with diffusion or reflection. For the most natural sound you want a 30/30/30 ratio give or take, to create the effect of a larger space while keeping sound fidelity.
@@juqual78 you might have convinced me there, as heat wasn't really something that I had thought about, but completely makes sense.
Thanks for the info!!
@@everyhandletaken Sure thing.I wish I could have video documented it like this.Dude but at last all I could do is share some info that I learned along the way
@ next time :)
That kind of thing makes for pretty nice time lapse. Appreciate you sharing
I was invested the minute you explained all three pads. I know you did this to show how much road noise or general noise in the cabin but I’m sure with the proper speaker setup now it would be a dream to go for a ride with your favorite music.
This is amazing. I've been wanting a scientific incremental layer experiment for years! This is exactly what I've been looking for. You should also look into weather stripping and next time you replace your tires see how much of a DB drop new or higher end tires give.
Continental does the Bentley tires. They have an acoustic treatment on the inner side of the tread. Bentley also has 3+ mufflers. Now that's going the last mile!
one of the things that reduces road noise in tires are continuous ribs; choppy/blocky tires make more noise (think truck mud tires) so you'll tend to notice at least a center rib on many tires.
It’s really nice to see someone like this guy out here doing damn good work. He’s highly detailed, competent, organized and honest. No BS, this guy is a rare human.
i hope you're wrong about him being rare. i'd like to think there are lots of people like him for the sake of all mankind but i totally get your point.
not only was it slightly quieter, it also reduced the spectrum of the high end more to the low end which is nice
Thanks for the video, u got my respect for the amount of work and effort not only by diy and soundproofing your car but to show us the difference on the decibel for every layer u installed. Im driving a honda fit too and been always frustated by the road noise and always try to use a quite tire. Will be installing soundproof too. Thanks again
Sound deadening is really only useful for aftermarket stereo setups. It makes a world of difference to reduce panel rattle and keep sound from being 180 degrees out of phase and cancelling out noise. Quite simply the sound bouncing off one side of the cabin without sound deadening material will bounce back and noise cancel some of the sound. With the added material the sound can't bounce back anywhere, and will make your system sound more crisp.
He did all that work for nothing without a killer stereo to put in. he did do a good job .
This is the best video on soundproofing I've ever seen. I'm going to keep a copy of it in case I ever buy another car. I soundproofed my Toyota Yaris with self-adhesive butyl sheets and closed-cell foam. I didn't do it fully or with much attention to detail but I found the result to be well worth the limited effort I put into it. As a lot of the comments suggest this isn't just about sound reduction measured in Db, it changes the character of the noise for the better.
It would have been great to see what the temperature differences in the car were before and after. I would be interested in knowing if it made a big difference.
Actually that could work 😮
Most temp difference would be coming in through the glass, so it wouldn't make that much of a difference. Its similar to a house, you could put 6" of insulation in the walls/floors/ceiling, but would not notice much a difference if you had single pane windows. If you want to lower the heat that transfers into the vehicle tint the windows.
Yah use a FLIR camera next round
@@klubstompers That is what tint is for! Also keep in mind most economy cars have 0 insulation in the headliner/roof so adding a bit helps a good bit!
My Yaris has about 24 square feet of roof space and since I did a full CLD/316 mil foam and 1" thick Fibermat, my car is far cooler.
And yes tint has it limits so I made a pair of "glasses" for when I'm not driving and it got the temp down inside to ambient if not cooler! My car is headliner now insulated like a space ship and it's really paying off! Even when I forget the "sunglasses" there is a considerable reduction in the temp inside the vehicle, assuming it doesn't stay out there too long and get too much direct sun in the windows.
I think you may have noticed a larger difference if you held the meter in the other hand. Perhaps you were getting a reading of window noise which would be unaffected by your work. A now central location may have given more insight.
Great video.
(I know this video is 2 years old.)
Ways to further reduce noise substantially from the current application: 1-Remove the dash and treat the firewall completely to reduce engine noise. 2-Change the muffler to a quieter design. 3-Use a spray on undercoating on the bottom of the chassis. 4-Make sure the weatherstripping is in new condition around all the doors, windows, and trunk. 5-The option regarding a tire change is valid since the noise created by the tire has a major correlation with the tread design and sidewall height. 6-Wear earplugs. 😂 Excellent video by Repair Geek!
I had a set of Bridgestone tyres from Japan (17") with foam on the inside, they were noticeably quiet compared to other tyres on the same wheels.
Love the video, very interesting
Great video! Thank you for your work and comments. 1 dB is noticeable to the average human. A 5 dB reduction is significant! the 90+ lbs of weight, while you might not feel it, will affect acceleration and city fuel economy. It would have been good to see a measured 0-60mph or 1/4 mile time.
Fuel economy hasn't changed one bit.
Maybe it will if 5 guys inside the car + the insulation materials weight ☻
The noise "profile" does change a lot in higer frequencies.... wich also are the most audible, so the difference is way more than the dB "rating" alone...
Terrific job! I've been considering this for some time, but I'm starting with a much noisier (92 Toyota Shortbed Pickup) vehicle with only the barest minimum of OEM sound deadener which is on the floor in various areas. No factory deadening in any other location. But I love this little "truck" and I'm getting closer to making a firm decision. Thanks again for another great job on another great video.
Any news on your Toyota? I've got a '93 single cab that I'm collecting materials for. I'm probably only going the first two layers, and then some thinner foam on the inside of the dash when I do mine - hoping to not break any dash parts in the process!
@@Spencer758
@Matt Rowan
The problem on these older "tin can" type vehicles is that once you do all of the sound deadening treatment that is outlined here, it will be the thin windshield glass & side/rear window glass and their minimalistic seals, along with the insufficient door seals, that will allow A LOT of road noise and wind noise into the cabin!
The change is VERY noticeable. The sound deadening DOES do a lot overall, and this is noticeable because your attention will now be shifted to up higher in the vehicle where you will hear the wind noise from the windshield & side glass, and road noise coming through the door & window seals. Still worth it IMO.
I think you did great putting so much in the car to lower road noise. However you missed a step for the wheel wells and firewall. For luxury vehicles the car companies will shoot in beta foam between the layers of metal in the wheel well, and firewall/dash area. Basically any area that you wont ever need access to should get filled with beta foam between the sheets/layers of metal.
Outstanding job. Thank you. For people watching the video, Remember another difference in high end cars is glass thickness. Thicker glass will help in the sound transmission. Plumping up older seals will help too. The old seals will allow more wind noise, just things for people to consider. I use spray sound deadner for areas the adhesive deadner can not go. I also use speaker box carpet on the back of plastic bits to stop their vibration & rattling.
Big props for a well thought out and produced video!
Also for the complete removal of your interior!
Anticipating and answering questions, editing with both decibel meter readings and audio comparisons!
A tip or two having done the rear of my 2002 WRX Wagon to help drop the aftermarket muffler drone.
I did a butyl layer, the gave the panel a rap test. If it resonated, I did a second and even 3rd layer as needed before the foam layer. I also applied the butyl to window pillars.
I have yet to do the front, but the rear is noticeably quieter!
My car is about 10 years older now, and am more afraid of killing interior connectors at this point…
Michelin pilot 4 all seasons really quieted the road noise substantially, nice for our 2500 mile winter road trip recently! One other rule of noise is you will hear the loudest noise so the a,b, c pillar’s might be worth doing :)
Like you said, the mass loaded floor is quieter than before even though the overall level didn’t change because other areas couldn’t be treated with it too.
Super Video - you’ve provided a nice public service and some inspiration!!
Being able to hear each other talk is a success!
Re: the droning exhaust. I've watched some videos on here, if you put a 90 degree elbow just before the inlet of the muffler facing the outlet in the same direction of the muffler, a straight section of pipe about the same length as the muffler, and then cap the end of the pipe, that's supposed to help a lot with reducing the droning.
Another rule-of-thumb tip I picked up, is to run a resonator in the exhaust about inline with the front seats
Thanks for making this video, it was obviously a crazy amount of work. I had thoughts of doing this to my Nissan van (and it had literally no interior panels), but thinking about the amount of time and work caused me to procrastinate. Your video corroborated my thinking.
I did this to my 98 accord years ago. I stripped the whole interior, and used the butyl rubber everywhere, but I did two layers of it. I bought my sound deadening in big rolls, it was much cheaper that way. It was SOOOO much work, but damn! The doors, roof, trunk, everything were dead thumps when you knocked them. It made a massive difference.
Fantastic work! I'm really blown away by how much effort you put into this video and this little car. Hope the car lasts you a long time! Greetings from Germany
On the topic of tire noise, I got a set of Pirelli tires for my Mini that are incredibly quiet (I think they're the Cinturato P7). It's amazing how much difference it makes. Love the idea of going the next step and doing the sound-deadening too. I'm assuming this wasn't a sponsored video, but if not I think the company owes you a thank-you note. Your video answered all the questions I had about the process. Also, I'm guessing you'd agree that the noise quality was improved as well (i.e. the noise that remains isn't quite as harsh).
Thanks for the inspiration! Even after upgrading my tires, I got tired of the endless road noise so after watching this video and a good few others I decided to do this to my first gen Toyota Yaris. I went a bit further however and also did the roof, wheel wells and A-pillar/firewall area.
I added a 4th layer over this setup in key areas: A sound absorbing fiber material called Fibermat (3M Thinsulate works just as well but cost a bit more ) to key areas for extra sound absorption. I got a -8 DB reduction at 70 mph which is just night and day. I added a ton of hit to my headliner and it acts like a huge bass trap/sound absorber, which really helps with sound stage up front and keeping bass tight.
Also something I think most people miss is butyl rubber rope. It's cheap and you can use it to tie together the frame of your car with the sheet metal exterior, ect. Toyota uses a ton of bracing so I squished it between every single brace and frame connection that I could and the vehicle now feels as tight as it did when it was brand new. Before I even put a piece of CLD on the roof, the rubber rope that I pushed into the bracing and sheet metal made everything way less resonant and noisy. I was able to get rid of every single creak and annoying sound the car had developed over 15 years just by using about 100 feet of it. Amazing! It was a pain in the butt to do this to every single joint in the car but boy did it pay off. I've never even driven a new car that feels this tight and well put together and I've been in a few. 0 rattles even if run over a huge speed bump at 5mph.
I slightly modified and shaved the foam insert portions of my door panel, so I could use 1 solid sheet of that Fibermat for the entire door and it blocks a ton of extra sound. Doing this and treating the front wheel well and mud flaps the same way was of course the biggest improvement when it comes to lowering noise. From my experience, you could literally leave all of your seats and headliner in and just work on the doors/front wheel well/ A frame to get the most reduction in sound.
That being said I personally went all the way due to wanting to make a sound system shine and I've largely accomplished that. The bass is incredibly tight and you can hear the quietest passages quite easily. No rattles or buzzing, even in the doors UNLESS I crank it to beyond deafening levels. The bad thing is it cost me about $2500 dollars to do it with 1/3 of the cost in the Fibermat alone (ouch) The good news is that I can reuse most of the fiber and MLV if I decide to junk the car down the line. Unlikely because these cars last forever when properly maintained.
Would I do it again? If I had the money and time, yes. 💯 If I was short on cash I would do the wheel wheels and doors and maybe buy some noise cancelling headphones :) Cheers and good luck on all your future projects!
Appreciate the work, man! Both the sound deadening and the making of the video. It'll definitely be an inspiration for many.
Awesome video. Subscribed! Fellow DIY er here. I think one of the factors for the big difference in DB after the closed-cell foam application might have been the butyl rubber sealing off the holes in the doors. I have sound-deadened 3 vehicles, and I noticed a big difference on the two that I sealed off the door holes vs the one that I didn't.
Actually if you have a higher end vehicle and lower end vehicle, you can hear the differences and I do own both, a Honda hrv and expedition, the honda you can hear the road and its loud in the inside, where the expedition is just all kinds of quiet and the seat comfort level is unmatched by the honda, this is a really good and informative video, thsnkyou.
Thanks for the video. By the way, a 3db difference is twice as loud to the human ear. So every 3bd is quite a significant difference. In car audio in order to make sound twice as loud(3db) you either double your speakers or double your power. I am definitely doing this to my truck and Infiniti. I will do my fire wall with dash removed. That’s where most engine and wind noise comes from. I will also put a rubberized coating under the floor, firewall and fender wells on the exterior of the vehicle as well to help with road noise.
isn t 10db twice as loud?
@@elviscaragea4433 3 dB is double the noise power, ~10 dB is double perceived volume for human ears
@@matousskoda5703 exactly
@@elviscaragea4433 it been a while so I looked it up. A 3db difference is a doubling or twice the wattage. I tried to find the db that everyone agreed on and it seems it’s all over the place! I saw 3,6,9, and 10db?? Now I’m confused. They were talking about spl dbA weighted and unweighted. Then, dbm, dbV, dBFS scales? It says to double spl requires a +6dbA change. It also says doubling wattage/power only yields a +3dbA increase in spl, doubling surface area of speakers/cone area only increases by +6dbA. I also read on another forum that 10db not sure to what kind, sounds twice as loud. They make this very confusing. My bad, I was wrong. Double the power is 3db increase. Doesn’t mean it’s twice as loud, just a noticeable difference. Thanks for making me research this again. I’ve just gotten back into audio again. Last time was late 90s- 2005. Everyone back then was saying 3db was twice as loud. Guess they and myself were wrong. Good to know.
@@jlev505 is ok, i get it this way, i think 3db is half as loud, 6 dp one time as loud and 10dp 2 times as loud. 🤔🤷♂️
i know in speakers you can get 3db+ by adding a reflex port or a second driver. try to cover a sub pot, you will se that is a big difference
My guess is that part of the reason for the less than expected change is that most of the noise in a car like that comes from panel gaps. More expensive cars have much smaller gaps between the body panels, which drastically reduces the amount of wind noise that the sound deadening has to cope with. From your results, I would assume that the biggest improvement for the least effort is going to be just covering all exposed interior metal with the butyl rubber stuff, once you've removed the interior. I also have to wonder about putting sound deadening in the wheel wells under the wheel well covers, since you mentioned that most of the remaining noise came from the wheel wells and engine.
Most noise probably comes from windows. Luxury cars use acoustic glass.
Well done!! This is an excellent video! I just bought a different car 2 months ago and I am big time into sound quality. I have been doing sound treatment on my '22 WRX whenever time permits and so far, I have done the doors, the trunk area, including the spare tire well, the rear deck sheet metal, the interior rear deck plastic, and the roof. Along with replacing the 4 door speakers, I have 46 hours vested in this project. I have had excellent results with Soundshield. It is a 3-in-one product that is very easy to work with. My last stop will be the floors.
Absolutely love that you took the time to measure the difference after each addition, thanks very much for your thorough process!
Thank you for all your videos, you are definitely teaching us and giving us courage to attempt jobs like this. I appreciate all the work you do.
If people weren't watching I wouldn't be making videos so, thank you.