Nice video. May I add some corrections. When loosening rocker arm securing bolts the right sequence is form outward to inwards. Inwards - outwards when tightening rocker arm securing bolts - new must be used. For ease of rotating - remove glow plugs. Also ballpin and adjustment screws have to be inspected for wear and replaced if found. Rotate via crank no camshaft. New cover gasket doesn`t need any silicone. Tightening the bolts to specified torque - 10Nm and in right sequence will prevent warping of the cover do there are no leaks. VW states as a MUST to use sleeves. Quote: Always use the assembly sleeves to fit the O-rings. There is a danger of damaging the O-rings if the sleeves are not used. Thumb up for this video. Nice job mate.
Great video...only one criticism . You should turn the engine over by the crank shaft, not the cam. So easy for the timing to slip foing it with the cam
Very informative, my 1.9 pd has recently started coughing out blue/grey smoke on start up and the fumes coming from exhaust smell slightly oily even when the smoke clears (it’s there for about 30 seconds 💨 and doesn’t show any as I’m driving). I’ve read on forums, injector seals, tandem pump, turbo bearing seals. I’ve just dipped my oil (changed 3 weeks ago) and yep, it stinks of diesel 😞. In your opinion would this point more towards the seals than T pump ? The oil level hasn’t risen, it just smells. 1.9 ATD PD 2003, 118k miles. Thank you 🤙🏼🤙🏼 Edit…. Thankfully I have a place near me called “Just German Parts”, they do Febi etc.
I have some questions if you don't mind shedding light on, one being how do you know the full compression point without just looking at the spring and where did you get the one time use bolt replacement, also brilliant tutorial 👏 it's helped me no end
👍👍This is the best video I've seen on doing this, is it the same process on t5 174 bpc engine .had new cam lifters and injector seals done about 3years ago but think injectors need replacing as getting white smoke and smell of diesel in the exhaust fumes like its over fuleing .
Please check the 'live date' coolant temps first, check from cold and compare the air temp to the coolant temp, should only be slightly off from each other, and check once warm at 90C on the dash and see if the ECU temp is the same. These go wrong a lot.
Excellent video mate!! Respect for using hands and wrenches to loosen bolts !!! One thing, whats the torque for the one time,lol .. use bolt that holds the injector? Thanks again and keep up the good work !!
I have a few questions about fumes so that when starting engine I get white smoke and few minutes after when running also and I think that is mixed with oil with oil smell but it desapear after the engine become at 90'
Bom video! Olha no video onde mostras os injetores do pd 115 partidos, falas de deixar part number da peça partida, pois não obtive essa info...o meu golf pd 115 teve o mesmo problema nos quatro, mas tenho intenções de os desmontar a peca e lavar nos ultrassons para voltarem ao carro, pides ajudar? Obrigado
Im having problem turning the engine after tightening the first injector. Is it possible there is fuel in the valve? I didnt do any eptying before I took apart the injectors and they had diesel in them..
Excellent video, unfortunately I dropped one of the thin nuts for locking the injectors down and am now trying to source a replacement, 😒😒. Can you tell me what the the silver filter like part is on the drivers side of the radiator? I've just seen mine is hanging lose and the alloy top pipe is broken. Not a good day.. time for a beer.
This video was super helpful I got a pd130 golf mk4 and I love it but this EGR valve is driving me crazy with the oil leak, everyone tells me its a common problem with all PD engines but I really want to fix it, please can you make a video on that, they told me that even if I buy a new replacement EGR it will start to leak a few months later so I dont know what to do at this point
Just a quick tip if you were doing just the injector you dnt need to take of the tb or non of that the valve cover comes off easy in there just so you can save some time 🙏
Hi there, I have polo 1.4 petrol 9n It start jerking at idle or stopped position. But it runs fine at long drive on motorway. I have changed spark plug and ignition coils too. I have changed the fuel injectors as well. But issue seems to be on very left piston when i take out the ignition coil it engine does not react anything when i take out the other coil engine start jerking that means issue is with left piston compartment. Please advise what else i can try. Regards
I've just done this to my mk5 1.9tdi BXE. Newly fully refurbished Bosch Pd injectors (professional rebuild not a home eBay effort) and now the car idles fine,no black smoke and no lumpy Shake anymore so definitely much improved. Let it idle for 20 minutes and then went for a drive. But didn't work out as car won't rev much past 3.5/4 rpm Have done the 180.wind back etc. Wire loom is perfect all terminals good. Did have a flashing glow plugs light but next day managed to clear the codes. Haven't ran any injectors diagnosis as my obd reader is Car Scanner app. Anyway I assume this is a common issue after changing Injectors. Any tips would be appreciated. Great video.
Hi there, did you get your injectors refurbished or fit other refurbished injectors? If you fitted another set of injectors then that could be your issue, did they ask you for your ECU number? or your old injectors code? You'll need to get the ecu coded to the new injectors.
Looking for advice. I have a Caddy 1.9 BLS. Tapping sound on acceleration, found that diesel is getting into the oil. Some oil residue on the fuel filter. Coolant level not dropping and no oil in the coolant. I need to know what the chances of it being head gasket or injector seals. Thanks in advance
Those 105 PD's are know for head gasket issues, diesel oil the on this engine I would look at the injector seals first. If the engine doesn't over heat or have any oil water mix.
Ok many thanks for the advice. There is a tapping sound on acceleration, doesn't make this sound on idle. Would that be the sound that a loose leaky injector could make? Do i follow all the same steps in your video to do the seals on the PD105. Many thanks, Andrew
Nice touch undoing the rocker adjusters before removing the rockers and then doing the lash.... Most people seem to just throw the new injectors in and whack the rockers back on.
@@waheedakram5182 I'm only had my 1 in the garage today & number 3 is giving a misfire so I've got 2 spare injectors there I'll be leaving them up to be serviced tomorrow & then get it replaced asap but apart from that I think the engine are bulletproof got mine years now & still happy with there's no loss in speed & just keeps going compared to other stuff that ive had 👍☘️🇮🇪
Your video was a godsend. thanks! I did it today and my Passat B6 tdi sounds great...Afterwards I have yellow check engine light on though and loss of power when MAF connected.. fine without MAF but still no turbo... I'm wondering is it software? Idle is way better than berofe.
@@RestoDesignsnando My check engine light on was caused by not doing the clip properly at the tube to the EGR valve.. tube came loose hence no turbo. Did that up and car runs great. thanks again!
Hey mate, thank you for the video, I've seen a bunch of mechanics that fail to do the part of timing after mounting the injectors, they usually just bolt it down and start the engine (part starting at 14:00), what could happen if that task was not properly done?
A few things, I once had a PD come where the injector rocker had broken off and came though the cam cover due to being too tight, this adjustment is the timing and amount of fuel injected. So for best power/economy and smoother running, it's best to adjust them all the same, you can then fine tune them even more using VAG-COM, much like the VE TDI pump timing adjustment settings.
@@RestoDesignsnando hey, i had the fortune to have my injector seals changed by a garage, i'm suspecting that he didn't adjust the injectors and just tightened the bolts, the car starts fine when cold, once it gets warm, the engine starts shaking a bit to much at idle, and starting it gets a bit longer than cold (sometimes the engine would stall). Is it possible to simply adjust the belt or should the injectors get adjusted all over again?
What would be a reasonable time charged from a garage to do this job? My VW Passat b6 is doing this job due to a issue on cold start engine turns but hard to start (injectors seals)! 👍🔝🙏😉
@@RestoDesignsnando thanks so much for the quick reply! Yes my mechanic told me that normally he likes to change the wiring with a new set! Labour and parts I'm looking at what 300€? Adding Head gasket seal! Thanks 👍🙏👌
Could I use a smaller copper washer to drop the injector height so I can get a better seal, as I saw some ware on the wall injectors were actually loose
Yes the heads to wear around the O rings. I haven't tried anything like that or heard of someone trying that ( doesn't mean it can't be done) two maybe issues come to mind, 1would the injector tip protrude more and in doing so hit the piston? plus would the spray pattern/angle be the same? 2 the fuel rail is in the head, lowering the injector would maybe mean poor fuel flow to all the injectors due to the holes not 100% lining up? These may not be an issue, just something to maybe think about.
A place near me called “just German Parts” They’re online and have a walk in shop. Near Preston, Lancashire. I need to do mine, I’m getting smoke on start up and oil stinks of diesel.
I’m having some issues with my mk4 Golf pd150 arl….. always suspected injectors. It gives white smoke on start up and bad misfire for a good 5 mins until engine warmed up then it runs absolutely fine…. I would like to attempt seal change myself but I’m wondering if it’s worth while going to cheap mechanic who quoted me 100 for used injectors and 100 to fit them
Any advice would be much appreciated…. I’ve came to far with car to stop now.. Refurbished turbo, new Tandem Pump, boost hoses, new coolant hoses, sensors changed, new injector wire loom….. all needed doing anyway but I was hoping after all that my cold start misfire would be sorted… (wishful thinking)
It does sound like the seals are leaking, if the used injectors are 100% trust worthy then yes get both replaced, but make sure you code the. injectors to the ECU, for that you will need the ECU number from those secondhand injectors, otherwise it will not perform right.
@@RestoDesignsnando changed the seals done the lashing as per your video…… car is now struggling to start, I used easy start and it runs but as soon as I try move the car it cuts out🤷🏽♂️
Did this cause low oil pressure issues? I do have an injecor leak but I've also been getting low oil pressure lights at warm idle I get around 10-15 psi
Just wondering, I’ve been diagnosed as blow between injectors 3 and 4, could this be solved by injector seals? Been advised new head would be a 100% fix but not convinced, also the price quoted gave me a nose bleed! Any help appreciated cheers
Unfortunately the heads do wear around where the seals are, You could try your luck fitting a fresh set of seals using a good amount of oil on the seals. I have seen here in Portugal a place fix the head with an copper insert.
Hmmmm that I don't know, I know why they need to be straight to due to the holes to line up with the holes in the head, as the fuel rail is in the head, ok so after typing that out, I guess if one wasn't straight it would then limit the fuel flow to the other injectors along.
@@snowflake6916 thnx for the reply. Can you please tell me how to remove the intake pipe off from the turbo. I have an audi a3 tdi 1.9tdi 55 reg. It has an oil leak coming from the top rear of the engine. However I need to take the big intake pipe off to have a good view. But there is hardly any room to put my hand with a plier. Your reply will be much appreciated
@@RestoDesignsnando Thank you. I've just got another pd I've not had one for years I have been running cr golf and seat but found my self with another pd with white smoky issues
@@RestoDesignsnando Thank you so much Sir! I have VW bolts and just torqued then to 12nm. Your tutorial has certainly helped me to get the rebuilt injector part of this build done. I appreciate you Sir
I’ve just stripped the threads on the retaining bolt that holds the injector down, 12nm I think is fine, but I feel 1/4 of a turn is safer than 3/4 of a turn. It’s also impossible to drill out and tap to the next size up as you can’t get in with a drill as the shoulders that hold the cam down are to close to the hole, I would have to take the head off and take it to the machine shop. I’ve fixed the stripped threads with copper wire and it feels ok, I left it at 16nm. Brilliant video, everything make complete sense & is easy to follow thank you
Part number for the seals 038198051 038 198 051 038198051A 038198051 A 038 198 051 A 038198051C 038198051 C 038 198 051 C 038 198 051 A 038198051 A 038198051A
Mr……, dude……, you’ve saved me !!! Can you believe I was quoted £845 for this job! Robbing fucks! Only wish I still had the mk2 I sold back in 97!!! Love your channel.
🙏🏼 cool, thanks for you kind words mate 👍🏼 mk2 prices are on the up, is it a good or bad thing (can of worms) 🤔 I know the Golf mk2 16V I sold was my last 'real' GTI mk2. In 97' that would of been still a new car almost. 😮 97 I was in mk1's no cash for a mk2 16v
@@davwcki367 All depends on where in the world you are and the garage hourly rate, the 'Book Time' for this job is 1.4 hours so this will help you workout the costs.
I can only talk from what I've came across, first time I did this was around 2007 on a 2002 mk4 with 120k, mileage plays a part, but I also think age does as well, a bit like a timing belt, 60k or 5 years.
no clickbait
no personal stories
no pointless blabbering
Thank you so much for delivering condensed information
Thank you, most of my video's are like this, but it hasn't caught on it seems, people seem you love hearing chat and wasting the internet.
There is nothing like a good teacher, for a layman like me, to learn a lesson! Thanks
Happy to help!
Nice video. May I add some corrections.
When loosening rocker arm securing bolts the right sequence is form outward to inwards.
Inwards - outwards when tightening rocker arm securing bolts - new must be used.
For ease of rotating - remove glow plugs.
Also ballpin and adjustment screws have to be inspected for wear and replaced if found.
Rotate via crank no camshaft.
New cover gasket doesn`t need any silicone. Tightening the bolts to specified torque - 10Nm and in right sequence will prevent warping of the cover do there are no leaks.
VW states as a MUST to use sleeves. Quote: Always use the assembly sleeves to fit the O-rings. There is a danger of damaging the O-rings if the sleeves are not used.
Thumb up for this video. Nice job mate.
When you say sleeves do you mean for the injectors ???
Yep this video most definitely deserves more views, one of the better How's on TH-cam. Top marks resto designs
Appreciate that friend. 👍🏼
Great video...only one criticism .
You should turn the engine over by the crank shaft, not the cam. So easy for the timing to slip foing it with the cam
ummm i dont know about that lol i think youd be the first guy to slip the timing belt by way of the cam on these motors
And after all job is done, you need to crank the engine for a few hours to start...
Very informative, my 1.9 pd has recently started coughing out blue/grey smoke on start up and the fumes coming from exhaust smell slightly oily even when the smoke clears (it’s there for about 30 seconds 💨 and doesn’t show any as I’m driving). I’ve read on forums, injector seals, tandem pump, turbo bearing seals. I’ve just dipped my oil (changed 3 weeks ago) and yep, it stinks of diesel 😞.
In your opinion would this point more towards the seals than T pump ? The oil level hasn’t risen, it just smells.
1.9 ATD PD 2003, 118k miles. Thank you 🤙🏼🤙🏼
Edit…. Thankfully I have a place near me called “Just German Parts”, they do Febi etc.
Thank you for the education. But quick question, what dificulties should i expect at the injector removal for his socket?
I've never had a difficult PD injector to remove, just work them side to side, there is a load of cheap injector tools which work well.
This video deserves more views and likes! Top man
Thank you, I appreciate your comment 👍🏼
Yep very well explained video.
Super video. Not forced and rushed i know how to do that now. Thank you
Thank you 👍🏼
I would like to see a video of you using the vagcom to tune injectors and time them.
I have some questions if you don't mind shedding light on, one being how do you know the full compression point without just looking at the spring and where did you get the one time use bolt replacement, also brilliant tutorial 👏 it's helped me no end
Glad this came in handy mate, their is a point that turning the crank the injector rocker stops going down, it's at that point you set them up.
👍👍This is the best video I've seen on doing this, is it the same process on t5 174 bpc engine .had new cam lifters and injector seals done about 3years ago but think injectors need replacing as getting white smoke and smell of diesel in the exhaust fumes like its over fuleing .
Please check the 'live date' coolant temps first, check from cold and compare the air temp to the coolant temp, should only be slightly off from each other, and check once warm at 90C on the dash and see if the ECU temp is the same. These go wrong a lot.
Excellent video mate!! Respect for using hands and wrenches to loosen bolts !!! One thing, whats the torque for the one time,lol .. use bolt that holds the injector? Thanks again and keep up the good work !!
Well explained I’m ordering my kit now ❤
Thanks 👍🏼
I have a few questions about fumes so that when starting engine I get white smoke and few minutes after when running also and I think that is mixed with oil with oil smell but it desapear after the engine become at 90'
ok sounds like how this car was, which unburnt diesel and a diesel smell under the bonnet and oil.
Would you potentially have some tuning capabilities when doing up the bolt and nut on the rocker ???
Fine tuning/balancing the injectors with VAG-com is posable,
Bom video! Olha no video onde mostras os injetores do pd 115 partidos, falas de deixar part number da peça partida, pois não obtive essa info...o meu golf pd 115 teve o mesmo problema nos quatro, mas tenho intenções de os desmontar a peca e lavar nos ultrassons para voltarem ao carro, pides ajudar? Obrigado
Followed this video step by step yesterday and it worked out perfect and did exactly what he said it was going to do , top video 🫡
Glad this video was helpful 👍🏼
Superb. I'll be attempting this!!! Thanks mate. Excellent video
Great video mate best ive seen. Simple and consisive.
Thanks 👍🏼
Excellent videos! Thank you so much for the top level instructions!
You're very welcome!
Im having problem turning the engine after tightening the first injector. Is it possible there is fuel in the valve? I didnt do any eptying before I took apart the injectors and they had diesel in them..
Thanks for the tool list at the end
👍🏼 Glad this was helpful
Excellent video, unfortunately I dropped one of the thin nuts for locking the injectors down and am now trying to source a replacement, 😒😒.
Can you tell me what the the silver filter like part is on the drivers side of the radiator? I've just seen mine is hanging lose and the alloy top pipe is broken. Not a good day.. time for a beer.
Sorry to hear that, I think you are talking about the A/C part right?
What was the torque for the clamp bolts?
Injector Clamp value is 12NM plus 270degrees. If it’s ASY engine it’s 20NM. This is all according to my Haynes manual
This video was super helpful I got a pd130 golf mk4 and I love it but this EGR valve is driving me crazy with the oil leak, everyone tells me its a common problem with all PD engines but I really want to fix it, please can you make a video on that, they told me that even if I buy a new replacement EGR it will start to leak a few months later so I dont know what to do at this point
Yes this is does happed, I would and have fitted a EGR delete pipe, you may need to get it coded out as some cars the engine light comes on.
I don’t have diesel in the oil, but do have tiny air bubbles in the fuel return line. Could this be the same problem?
Did you replace the bolts? Are the non oe bolts same nm as the originals
Just a quick tip if you were doing just the injector you dnt need to take of the tb or non of that the valve cover comes off easy in there just so you can save some time 🙏
Yep You're totally right. Will pin this 👍🏼
Hi there,
I have polo 1.4 petrol 9n
It start jerking at idle or stopped position. But it runs fine at long drive on motorway. I have changed spark plug and ignition coils too. I have changed the fuel injectors as well. But issue seems to be on very left piston when i take out the ignition coil it engine does not react anything when i take out the other coil engine start
jerking that means issue is with left piston compartment. Please advise what else i can try.
Regards
I've just done this to my mk5 1.9tdi BXE. Newly fully refurbished Bosch Pd injectors (professional rebuild not a home eBay effort) and now the car idles fine,no black smoke and no lumpy Shake anymore so definitely much improved. Let it idle for 20 minutes and then went for a drive. But didn't work out as car won't rev much past 3.5/4 rpm Have done the 180.wind back etc. Wire loom is perfect all terminals good. Did have a flashing glow plugs light but next day managed to clear the codes. Haven't ran any injectors diagnosis as my obd reader is Car Scanner app. Anyway I assume this is a common issue after changing Injectors. Any tips would be appreciated. Great video.
Hi there, did you get your injectors refurbished or fit other refurbished injectors? If you fitted another set of injectors then that could be your issue, did they ask you for your ECU number? or your old injectors code? You'll need to get the ecu coded to the new injectors.
@@RestoDesignsnando they are not the original injectors but the codes are the same. I now think we have a Tandem pump issue. Thanks for the reply
Tell me your not turning the engine over via the camshaft sprocket?????
Looking for advice. I have a Caddy 1.9 BLS. Tapping sound on acceleration, found that diesel is getting into the oil. Some oil residue on the fuel filter. Coolant level not dropping and no oil in the coolant. I need to know what the chances of it being head gasket or injector seals. Thanks in advance
Those 105 PD's are know for head gasket issues, diesel oil the on this engine I would look at the injector seals first. If the engine doesn't over heat or have any oil water mix.
Ok many thanks for the advice. There is a tapping sound on acceleration, doesn't make this sound on idle. Would that be the sound that a loose leaky injector could make? Do i follow all the same steps in your video to do the seals on the PD105. Many thanks, Andrew
Arnt there two max compression cycles? One for exaust one for injection?
There is only one injector cam lope. 👍🏼
Nice touch undoing the rocker adjusters before removing the rockers and then doing the lash.... Most people seem to just throw the new injectors in and whack the rockers back on.
Thank you, hope this video was helpful👍🏼
Thanks for sharing, very clear instructions
Glad this came in helpful👍🏼
What a cracking video & in clear English, but why does number 3 injector always go on these ?
Thanks👍🏼, I have no idea, but now that you mention it yes you'e right.
I have this problem right now says misfire on cylinder 3 injector after I used wynns injector cleaner
@@waheedakram5182 I'm only had my 1 in the garage today & number 3 is giving a misfire so I've got 2 spare injectors there I'll be leaving them up to be serviced tomorrow & then get it replaced asap but apart from that I think the engine are bulletproof got mine years now & still happy with there's no loss in speed & just keeps going compared to other stuff that ive had 👍☘️🇮🇪
Nicely explained 👌 got to do it .. on the road 🙄
Your video was a godsend. thanks! I did it today and my Passat B6 tdi sounds great...Afterwards I have yellow check engine light on though and loss of power when MAF connected.. fine without MAF but still no turbo... I'm wondering is it software? Idle is way better than berofe.
Great to hear! Unfortunately sounds like the injector is your issue, this does happen once unplugging them. they do go bad over time.
@@RestoDesignsnando My check engine light on was caused by not doing the clip properly at the tube to the EGR valve.. tube came loose hence no turbo. Did that up and car runs great. thanks again!
@@realitysosubtle2746 That's good news, 👍🏼🙏🏼
Hi m8 where did you get the seal kit from
I have an audi a3 1.9 tdi 55 reg and thinking of doing this job as my car is producing white smoke
I got the seals from a Bosch service centre here in Portugal
@Resto Designs thnx. I am based here in UK. I think I probably need to get in touch with audi dealers
Injector Clamp value is 12NM plus 270degrees. If it’s ASY engine it’s 20NM. This is all according to my Haynes manual
Do the glow plugs need to be removed to do this job?
Removing will make it easier to turn that engine, but that isn't an issue really.
Thanks for the all the demonstration
Hope you found it was helpful. 👍🏼
Hey mate, thank you for the video, I've seen a bunch of mechanics that fail to do the part of timing after mounting the injectors, they usually just bolt it down and start the engine (part starting at 14:00), what could happen if that task was not properly done?
A few things, I once had a PD come where the injector rocker had broken off and came though the cam cover due to being too tight, this adjustment is the timing and amount of fuel injected. So for best power/economy and smoother running, it's best to adjust them all the same, you can then fine tune them even more using VAG-COM, much like the VE TDI pump timing adjustment settings.
@@RestoDesignsnando hey, i had the fortune to have my injector seals changed by a garage, i'm suspecting that he didn't adjust the injectors and just tightened the bolts, the car starts fine when cold, once it gets warm, the engine starts shaking a bit to much at idle, and starting it gets a bit longer than cold (sometimes the engine would stall).
Is it possible to simply adjust the belt or should the injectors get adjusted all over again?
Dali je potrebno dizne poslije servisa vratiti kako su bile ili je bitan redoslijed
What would be a reasonable time charged from a garage to do this job? My VW Passat b6 is doing this job due to a issue on cold start engine turns but hard to start (injectors seals)! 👍🔝🙏😉
The workshop repair book time is 1.5 hours, I would also recommend replacing the injector wiring loom at the same time.
@@RestoDesignsnando thanks so much for the quick reply! Yes my mechanic told me that normally he likes to change the wiring with a new set! Labour and parts I'm looking at what 300€? Adding Head gasket seal! Thanks 👍🙏👌
@@ricardopinto1765 The Bosch seals 15€ x4, wiring from VW 80-/+€ yes 300€ sounds ok.
@@RestoDesignsnando once again thanks! 🙏👌👏
@@ricardopinto1765 👍🏼
Could I use a smaller copper washer to drop the injector height so I can get a better seal, as I saw some ware on the wall injectors were actually loose
Yes the heads to wear around the O rings. I haven't tried anything like that or heard of someone trying that ( doesn't mean it can't be done) two maybe issues come to mind, 1would the injector tip protrude more and in doing so hit the piston? plus would the spray pattern/angle be the same? 2 the fuel rail is in the head, lowering the injector would maybe mean poor fuel flow to all the injectors due to the holes not 100% lining up? These may not be an issue, just something to maybe think about.
@@RestoDesignsnando I'm thinking of trying it maybe just a pinch down or get a little bit thicker O ring
@@leeroycanham3326 If you can find the O ring which is thicker that would be amazing, 👍🏼
Where do I buy new injector bolts from?
A place near me called “just German Parts” They’re online and have a walk in shop. Near Preston, Lancashire.
I need to do mine, I’m getting smoke on start up and oil stinks of diesel.
ey bro, great video!, can say torque bolt the blocker injector? please
Do you need to do the lash or can you just bolt it back on
Yes I show that in the vid mate, anywhere from 180º to 240º the early spec sheet said 180º the undated specs are 240º if remember serves me.
I’m having some issues with my mk4 Golf pd150 arl….. always suspected injectors. It gives white smoke on start up and bad misfire for a good 5 mins until engine warmed up then it runs absolutely fine….
I would like to attempt seal change myself but I’m wondering if it’s worth while going to cheap mechanic who quoted me 100 for used injectors and 100 to fit them
Any advice would be much appreciated…. I’ve came to far with car to stop now..
Refurbished turbo, new Tandem Pump, boost hoses, new coolant hoses, sensors changed, new injector wire loom….. all needed doing anyway but I was hoping after all that my cold start misfire would be sorted… (wishful thinking)
It does sound like the seals are leaking, if the used injectors are 100% trust worthy then yes get both replaced, but make sure you code the. injectors to the ECU, for that you will need the ECU number from those secondhand injectors, otherwise it will not perform right.
@@RestoDesignsnando thank you 👍🏼
@@RestoDesignsnando changed the seals done the lashing as per your video…… car is now struggling to start, I used easy start and it runs but as soon as I try move the car it cuts out🤷🏽♂️
Do you have any advice please?
Did this cause low oil pressure issues? I do have an injecor leak but I've also been getting low oil pressure lights at warm idle I get around 10-15 psi
It didn't in this case, but it could do if left mixing with the oil over a long time, does your engine oil smell of diesel?
Good question. Maybe oil diluted with diesel.
What was the Febi part number for the repair kit you used ? Great video, Thanks.
Thanks mate, will post up the part number tomorrow for you 👍🏼
Hey mate mine diluted diesel with oil polo tdi what can I first check
hi man, thx for the video. Can you tell me the size of the hexagonal (Xzn) for the rockers bolts and the allen size for inyectors bolts? THANK so much
I think they’re 8 and 5.
Hello. How often shell I injector seal replace, please.
video super, purtroppo non riesco a capire dal minuto 16.40 in poi, che regolazione fai al stringhere gli iniettori.
Great teacher 👌
Thank you
Hi mate. Where did u get your febi seal kit. Thanks
Got it from a parts supplier, like euro car parts & Auto-Doc online.
Thank you for the tutorial appreciate it
Happy to help
Just wondering, I’ve been diagnosed as blow between injectors 3 and 4, could this be solved by injector seals? Been advised new head would be a 100% fix but not convinced, also the price quoted gave me a nose bleed! Any help appreciated cheers
Unfortunately the heads do wear around where the seals are, You could try your luck fitting a fresh set of seals using a good amount of oil on the seals. I have seen here in Portugal a place fix the head with an copper insert.
So how do the smaller orings come out and the brass seat?
Just use a pliers to turn the brass seal and it'll come off, there is a very small metal spring clips the just holds it up.
Love the idea of the PD engine in the mk3. Did you do the harness work yourself?
No I got a friend to do the wiring side of the PD.
Awesome video, thanks!!!
🙏🏼 Thank you.
what happens if the injectors are not insert straight w what effect would it have on the car ?
Hmmmm that I don't know, I know why they need to be straight to due to the holes to line up with the holes in the head, as the fuel rail is in the head, ok so after typing that out, I guess if one wasn't straight it would then limit the fuel flow to the other injectors along.
I think they just need to be basically straight, not perfect. Due to the clamp.
Wow - really good video
Thank you very much!
How did you put the new washers on the injectors
I did this, all you do is remove the old ones with a small flat head screwdriver and then using some lube spray slide the new ones on.
@@snowflake6916 thnx for the reply. Can you please tell me how to remove the intake pipe off from the turbo. I have an audi a3 tdi 1.9tdi 55 reg. It has an oil leak coming from the top rear of the engine. However I need to take the big intake pipe off to have a good view. But there is hardly any room to put my hand with a plier. Your reply will be much appreciated
nice video it's been a while since I've done this and I forgot how to do the lash 👍
Glad I was able you remind you friend👍🏼
@@RestoDesignsnando Thank you. I've just got another pd I've not had one for years I have been running cr golf and seat but found my self with another pd with white smoky issues
Thanks it was very informative
Glad you found this helpful 👍🏼
Well, mine was still M6 triple square not M4. 1.9 Tdi 77kW BXE
Love the content and love vw
Thank you mate 👍🏼
Great video
Thanks!
Good tutorial!
Thank you 👍🏼
Do u have to code it again ?
No need to.
17:13 Can someone tell me what he means by "the lash"? Does it mean turn it 180° back from where it gets harder to tighten it?
Yes. Set cam to maximum lift, then turn adjustment to bottom, then back half turn.
Nice video though shouldn't you replace the M10 triple square bolts? :)
Yes you are meant too, 😉
i thought ur never meant to turn a engine off the cam.. i’ve always been told to use the crack…
yes you are 100% right, it is safer to turn the engine via the crank centre bolt.
@@RestoDesignsnando thought so
Remove glow plugs so resistance is low.
What torque on the injector retainer bolts? Saw you doing it just no torque numbers.
Hi there, I use non VW non-stretch bolts, which is why I didn't state the torque numbers, using new OE bolts, the figures are 12nm + 270 degrees
@@RestoDesignsnando Thank you so much Sir! I have VW bolts and just torqued then to 12nm. Your tutorial has certainly helped me to get the rebuilt injector part of this build done. I appreciate you Sir
@@stephentooke1770 Thanks for watching, glad you found this helpful 👍🏼
I’ve just stripped the threads on the retaining bolt that holds the injector down, 12nm I think is fine, but I feel 1/4 of a turn is safer than 3/4 of a turn. It’s also impossible to drill out and tap to the next size up as you can’t get in with a drill as the shoulders that hold the cam down are to close to the hole, I would have to take the head off and take it to the machine shop. I’ve fixed the stripped threads with copper wire and it feels ok, I left it at 16nm. Brilliant video, everything make complete sense & is easy to follow thank you
Great vid 👍👍👍
Thank you.
hi would it be possible to send the part number please ?thank you
Part number for the seals
038198051
038 198 051
038198051A
038198051 A
038 198 051 A
038198051C
038198051 C
038 198 051 C
038 198 051 A
038198051 A
038198051A
@resto designs. Where abouts in the UK are u based?
When I'm in the UK, London 👍🏼
@@RestoDesignsnando do the glow plugs have to be removed when setting injector timing?
Boas és português?
Mr……, dude……, you’ve saved me !!! Can you believe I was quoted £845 for this job! Robbing fucks! Only wish I still had the mk2 I sold back in 97!!! Love your channel.
🙏🏼 cool, thanks for you kind words mate 👍🏼 mk2 prices are on the up, is it a good or bad thing (can of worms) 🤔 I know the Golf mk2 16V I sold was my last 'real' GTI mk2. In 97' that would of been still a new car almost. 😮 97 I was in mk1's no cash for a mk2 16v
My car also doesn't want to get started same engine like that
I have sum question about this
Very cool👍
Thank you.
what's the cost's of this job ??
The seal kits themselves can be anywhere between 15€ to 40€ each.
@@RestoDesignsnando and what about mechanics costs??
@@davwcki367 All depends on where in the world you are and the garage hourly rate, the 'Book Time' for this job is 1.4 hours so this will help you workout the costs.
What sort of milage are we at when this needs doing? 🤔☺️
I can only talk from what I've came across, first time I did this was around 2007 on a 2002 mk4 with 120k, mileage plays a part, but I also think age does as well, a bit like a timing belt, 60k or 5 years.
Appreciate quick response 😊👍
Merci bonne vidéo....
Thanks mate
👍🏼