Thanks for the insight into this hot end. I was almost going to buy one of these but decided on a Mosquito clone instead. Took me awhile to figure out what he meant when he kept saying "collect" for supporting the Bowden tube. Finally figured out he was referring to the "collet". And yes, watching this at 1.25 or 1.5 speed is much better...
I was half ways through the video just barely hanging in there with his verrrrry sloooow speaking. agonizing slow. Bumping it up to 1.25 was much more enjoyable to watch. The content is very informative BTW. :)
I have looked on aliexpress in the Mellow store and can't find one with the pneumatic fitting only the one with the Bowden collt do you have a link for the one with the toothed fitting?
PT100 and PT1000 probes are not a type of thermocouple. They are still more accurately described as thermistors. They are simply a different construction than the more typical 10k glass bead thermistors.
You are correct, PT100 or 1000 are not thermocouples, they are platinum resistance temperature detectors (RTD), very nearly linear response. Thermistors are quite different, being very non linear, and very sensitive and the types used in printers are ntc, negative temperature coefficient of resistance, platinum has a positive resistance coefficient. NTC thermistors resistance decreases when they get hot, PT100 increases.
What do you think of the hotend made by Gulf Coast Robotics? They are also a U.S. company, but their hotend is less than half the price of one from Micro Swiss. I have a Micro Swiss hotend, but it is leaking so I need to take it apart and see if I can fix it. I might need to buy another one to get up and running sooner and I really don't want to spend the another Micro Swiss hotend.
You don't have it installed properly. You need to torque down the nozzle with a wrachet wrench while it's at operating temperature. The sheet metal wrench won't work.
@@clutchboi4038 Yes, I already figured that out. I took it apart and cleaned it which was a chore and followed Microswiss' instructions to the letter including torquing down the nozzle with a torque wrench. I have not had any problems since. Thanks for the information though.
The myth that those two screws between the heater block and heat sink causes heat creep has been busted. In any case, if you sub stainless steel screws for the ones supplied there won't be a problem. i wouldn't want to depend on only that one tiny grub screw to keep the assembly together. BTW, you can also get a counter sink drill bit to add the missing counter sink to those screw holes in the heat sink.
What's the internal diameter consistency like with this? Is the internal filament path as smooth as the Micro Swiss? I know this was more a rant, but what is the real world print difference between PTFE lined, MicroSwiss all metal and the clones? External design is one thing, but if the quality of the filament path is not good on the clones then they are not worth recommending.
is the micro swiss one 10x better than the clone? cuz they cost 10x more, im new to 3d printing but i dont really fancy spending a third the cost of my printer on a hotend
@@nekosimp7751 to be honest, I still use the stock Ender hot end on my 3D printer and have no issues. The only reason I would change to an all metal hoyend at all would be if I start printing high temperature filaments, and then I would have to modify the firmware anyway. For PLA and PETG the Stock Bowden Tube setup with the tube in the hotend works fine and I get really good results for what I want it for. I was just asking the questions because some of those cheap hotends are poor quality and they end up worse than the stock hotend
Hi, quick question, do you not recommend a particular clone? Can you post a link? I am thinking Gulfcoast Robotics, but maybe the one you reviewed is better?
Microswiss is way overpriced. The design is an improvement over the original, but not at 4x the cost. I'm glad there is competition. Microswiss will either become competitive or go under. As far as this video, it would have he,ped if you showed the microswiss differences and compared the two directly. I wish you put a link to this seller and item.
yeah, I was disappointed he didn't link the product in the description as well... TH-cam seems to inconsistently shadow block posts for links... but he said they were on aliexpress, and he gave the name mellow, so it's not hard to find luckily...
the issue with the bowden collect is easily fixed by keeping down pressure on the bowden tube and with a smal flat screwdriver you push up the bowden collect and lock the collect with the clip while keeping down pressure on the bowden tube
How hard would it be to replace the bowden collet with a pneumatic connector? Wouldn't all you have to do is pull the collet and then tap the hole for the connector?
I had my car Swiss custom make me a heatsink for reasons similar to this. The difference is I wanted to use a compression fitting which is superior to a Pneumatic coupler. I have a video on it on my TH-cam channel
Great video. Thanks you for all the detail, I learned a lot! With all the detail Mellow put into this improved copy; do you have any suggestions on why they didn't countersink the screw holes for the X gantry attachment bolts?
One reason would be compatibility with inaccurate mounts hole spacing. CS bolts localise exactly, flat top allows a small amount of shift with the flat face still clamping correctly
Lots of YTers have done experiments to determine whether the two fixing screws transfer heat, and the answer is no very little additional heat is transferred. I have removed my Micro Swiss for the exact problems you describe, it was ok for a couple of months and then the Bowden tube started riding up and down the throat, I changed to direct drive but no matter how I adjusted retraction I was getting blobs on my prints, so it came off and I put the original Creality ht end back on
But, what other filaments can you print? I can't even print ABS without it clogging on every print using cura, simplicity, messing with settings... nothing works.
@@sasoritaiga I've printed using ESUN ABS and ABS+ filaments with an ender 3 original hotend using a capricorn PTFE tube and CHEP's cura profile, but by changing the temperature to the ABS required, and it runs perfectly normal without any issues for a long time. I always check the hotend and PTFE and everything is fine.
I have two Ender 5 plus's, One runs the Creality Spider (another expensive one) and one has the Mirco swiss direct drive. Mine has a C clip that holds the Bowden tube and it works well, 10/10 for that one until you drop said c clip then your on your knees with a magnet. The Creality standard fair is good though, Not alot of difference print quality wise. But, Mirco swiss is shiny bling too, that has to count for something.
I’m willing to pay more for a product that is made in Canada or USA if there’s a good local customer service, good installation instructions, good warranty, fast shipping, etc. There’s a cost for that and I see this as value for customers. But $65... too much for me. $40 would be fair.
Maybe microswiss should continue to innovate? Their direct drive system is bulky and takes up a ton of space. It isn’t good for flexible filaments. There are much better options out there as a whole for both of these. Especially considering you can just swap your mk 8 heatbreak for an all metal one.
from what i see people tend to run these on long bowden setups and blame the hotend on clogging. it is often too much retraction causing it instead that should be resolved by shortening your bowden tube or switching to direct drive
I really miss some soft of final word here. I skipped through the video because the content was a bit sparse, so I might have missed it. The clone is better, because of what? Where is the link to buy one? What does it cost?
Well thanks. When the time comes, it looks like there's no reason to pay a premium for Microswiss parts. The only reason I'd upgrade the hot end from stock would be to be able to print higher temp plastics and it looks like these Chinese hot ends actually do a better job for that. I assume they also make compatible direct drive kits.
Soft filament printing means noticeable hard filament printing precision losses with current "upgrades". Some want an affordable IDEX (upgrade) kit. I am waiting for some binding issues between filaments to get resolved / improved. I think, at least for now, it is wiser to buy a 2nd 3D printer and set it up for flexible filaments instead of sabotaging your hard filament printing.
Great video - i have been having issues as I find the glass temp sensor very fragile as i am always meddling with the printer. I think we should recognise that the Chinese have been playing catch-up since they opened their markets, but the are certainly not constrained to cheap copies. They are an incredibly versatile, creative and industrious. They invented paper, gunpowder and probably a long list of other things so should not be underestimated
@@andrewesquivel - many thanks Andrew - that does seem an optimal solution. I am a constant fiddler with my printer so end up breaking these more often than i should. I am in Malaysia so will need to see if Amazon will ship me one.
very miss leading video. I bought one of these clones and the printer can't even load filament properly due to some sort of clog right out of the box. PS there's no instruction. Now I am looking at getting an e3d v6.
Currently thinking about upgrading and happy to buy a clone, but it is hard to know what is a good or bad clone. And its easy to spend more on 2 or 3 bad clones in both money and time than you would if you went straight to Microswiss. I am not American and have not allegiance to US products, particularly ones that hijack my country's name to market their stuff (MicroUS doesn't sound as good?). They are expensive but the name is solid where as Happy Living Fun brand has very little goodwill behind it. The secret in buying clones of anything is to find some that are their own version ie. rather than duplicate everything down to logos, they borrow (sometimes clearly in breach of intellectual property laws) the best bits and use their own ingenuity to improve. It happens and these products may be a bit more than the average clone but still cheaper than the original. As an aside, this theft by Chinese manufacturers seems to be karmically coming. back as there are some really good original products ranging from pocket knives through e cigarettes and 3D printer accessories, that originate in China, but are being copied, and are sometimes indistinguishable from the source apart from price, thereby diluting their own brands.
I love supporting American manufacturing whenever possible. But in this case, as I have printers with Micro Swiss direct drives, and a ruined print on each bed due to leaky hotends, I'll be ordering this clone and giving it a shot.
I had this problem with mine as well for quite a while. I think I've solved the problem by following the build instructions to a T. Specifically, the part where you take a crescent wrench to secure the heat block while you use a 7mm ratchet to tighten the nozzle at 230c. One must insure the heat break is completely bottomed out, first. Also, a brass nozzle utilizing a thermal compound on the threading is superior to steel. The only advantage steel has is wear resistance. Brass nozzles are cheap enough to replace as often as needed. Brass heats faster, and provides less resistance to the filament.
You need to install the nozzle properly. If you aren't using a rachet and socket to tighten the nozzle it will leak. Needs to be torqued with a wrench while at operating temperature. The sheet metal wrench that comes with it won't work.
@@clutchboi4038 That is how I used to do it. I still had issues. However, I switched to the Microswiss NG since and never looked back. Running the Microswiss hot end with no screws, and no issues. 6 months, it's been an absolute beast. I even accidentally put the decimal in the wrong spot on my extrusion multiplier, where is was supposed to be .9, but I set it to 9.0, and it didn't skip a beat. It shoved so much filament through that hot end lol.
Fun fact: i wondered why they carry „Swiss“ in their company name and asked them if they have a relationship to Switzerland, because based on their website informations they do not... no answer yet. 🤔
"Swiss" is a type of machining using a special kind of lathe, see "Swiss lathe turning" TH-cam videos. It is used for small turning of high precision parts.
First they add "Swiss" so you think its some kind of special imported device. Next they are seriously over priced. Its not something that exotic we are talking here. Chinese can clone and sell it for four bucks compared to sixty five.
@@TuncayAyhan I bought a clone from TriangleLabs. Best product ever, I've been printing PLA and it's been great, I had 1 or 2 clogs at first but everything is good. Also I recommend getting the NF-Crazy Plus hot end from Mellow. Look it up, it's a super jacked up hot end
@@hermangaviria690 I am not sure it makes much difference with PLA printing usually. I've never had a jam at all with my stock Creality using Capricorn PTFE with PLA as PLA prints at a low enough temperature that PTFE is not affected. PETG and others that use higher temps, that's quite different. PTFE doesn't like those higher temps. What speeds are you printing at? :)
Microswiss just modified an open-source hotend and moved the contact point of the Bowden tube to a cooler area, they didn't create anything at all, in terms of clone, technically you can say they are cloning Creality's hotend. Upgrading to this hotend allows you to print at a higher temperature, no other benefits, it won't improve print quality, flow, or speed. Honestly, most people think it's better because they paid $65 for it, you have to convince yourself it's better. Just print a few models from the microswiss hotend + nozzle, then print the same set of models from the $2 stock creality hotend + $0.25 brass nozzle and see if you can identify which from which. Unlike Slice engineering, they created the Mosquito hotend, if you want to print fast, you need that, I would call that a piece design, but not the microswiss one, they used a higher cost CNC machine to make a $2 creality hotend, that's why you need to pay 30X more for the hotend and 60X more for the nozzle. Even sponsored TH-camrs are just showing how to install their products, they don't want to say that can improve print quality.
Microswiss would be better off copying this design - it's like the Chinese company did their work for them. Side note: I'll take an E3D V6 any day over Microswiss.
good morning, the channel is very good, i upgraded my ender 3, put a bigtreetech skr mini e3 v2.0 card and a tft 3.5 e3 v 3.0 screen, my question is, and a good idea to put this hot end on it, because I only print PLA, WHY DON'T LEARN STILL USE OTHER MATERIALS I tried wood, and there is no one who teaches how to use it, if you can help me with that too, please.
The clones are really hit&miss, quality can be astounding or utterly useless. WIth the original you won't have to gamble and their support is really great.
@@Ebani YEah but did you not see the part where they have good support. So say you get the 1% failure, you can get a new one. Most of these Chinese sellers will not do that.
@@JediOfTheRepublic Not at all, chinese sellers as bad as the support may be (which isn't bad at all, just takes longer bc it's literally an ocean away) they always return your money if anything goes wrong, i've had a lot more problems with Ebay and Amazon than with chinese stores 💁♂️
Shizzlefest. The mellow copper hot end is only $7 and it does indeed have the cartridge hole for a high temp thermocouple ($3). $10 and now I can print to 300 no sweat. The bead thermistors have ptfe insulation, so they are useless above 250 or so. $10 fix to a $70 micro swiss hot end. Rediculous, they could have had a happy existing customer.
@@JasperJanssen According to the specs I looked, they specifically list ptfe. Not saying you couldn't buy them, but I checked lots of sources and they were all ptfe. I'm set now with a cartridge thermistor with silicon insulation.
The chinese manufacturer is not trying to recoup his setup and development costs. Companies charge r&d off to consumers when they used to just develop a product and charge a fair price.
An US company with swiss in their name…. Thats like a swiss watch company calling itself true american watches. Or can you complain chinese companies using a western name to get a better image in terms of quality?
They all copied each other, the 3d printed community is all about open-sourced. Then companies started to patent and try to claim ideas which is all bogus. It’s like patenting a software similar to android/linux.
I made three small bunnies..starter ones, already went through two microswiss hotends and two thermal breaks and 1 main heat sink, screws strip out, the thernal break snapped in two, ruining both parts all in less than a week
Well done for making this video!!! I sincerely hope this would be a wake-up call for all those that think slamming "Made in USA, UK, EU" or whatever on their boxes automatically gives them the right to charge an arm and a leg for their products. BMG, Microswiss, E3D and others really need to cope on. I built my printers and have been using the same all-metal V6 clones from Mellow and Trianlge Labs for the last 1.5 year without any problems and even the same nozzles, gone trough kilos of PETG, PLA and ASA.. At the end of the day, when you see that just the hotend would swallow 1/4 of the cost of the entire build, well, you start looking for alternative, people vote with their wallets, rather than some fictional national pride.
What you forget here is the development cost which needs to be sonsidered too. The money spend to develop and design such a hotend (or whatever) needs flow back and new inventions want to be paid as well. However, many genuine products are really kinda expensive and could be cheaper for sure. And to be clear, I buy clones as well but I partially understand the high price of a genuine product.
So what youre saying is micro swiss is stupid and completely content with being priced out of business by yet-another-chinese-company like most American manufacturers.
Nice hotend. Just a point about the way you put the nozzle together. Nozzle first. Heat break second. Most important to get the nozzle seated against the block, not the thread of the beat break. A little thermal paste goes a long way right there too.
What? Is there something special about this hot end? On all normal hot ends, especially all metal ones, a gap between nozzle and hestbreak is killing. You’re basically *never* supposed to have the nozzle tight against the block.
@@GBCobber ... can you give me a reason why? What do you think a half mm gap between nozzle and heat block brings, versus the known problems of having a heating chamber that is too big because there is filament oozing between heatbreak and nozzle, clogging the filament path up both literally and metaphorically?
If you're getting anywhere in a nozzle something is dramatically wrong. If I had to worry about a couple of dollar nozzle lasting longer because it's more economical I shouldn't be in this Hobby venue at all. I don't understand some of these comparisons I'm not trying to be a dick. But using tool steel 4 a nozzle seems to be absolutely silly. You can buy handfuls of .04 brass nozzles for only a couple of dollars it's not even an issue. As far as the coating they put on it I can guarantee all we are doing is dipping it in Bluing
I believe Micro Swiss does make MK8 Nozzles in both A2 and M2 steel with their slick coating on them to keep filament from sticking to it. I have several of their MK8 and RepRap (E3D) steel nozzles. store.micro-swiss.com/collections/nozzles
Majority of these “made in USA” companies, have their components built overseas. Some minor assembly or packaging in the US is all they need to call it made in US and charge you the premium price. Not worth it in most cases. Sadly US is not and will most likely never be the “manufacturing” super power it used to be.
@@tuloko16 I used to think the same about made in usa but after a bit of reading it's obvious that if does have some weight. "According to the Federal Trade Commission, “Made in USA” means that “all or virtually all” the product has been made in America. That is, all significant parts, processing and labor that go into the product must be of U.S. origin."
Just to be clear: Mellow is another Chinese company relying on the distance of shipping to stick you with a product that you'd wish you could return, but you'll have to pay for shipping, which is always way more expensive than the cost to get their junk to you. Their English Ability is poor and there are no instructions, just a box of crap that doesn't fit the printer you bought for, even though you asked them and they said, 'ok', it will work with your printer. In my case, a cr10s v2. So, buyer beware. You'll waste time and money getting their crap installed, then it'll be too short to work.
There's nothing exceptional with the Machining on that tool steel nozzle I promise you I'm a machinist if you can't tell already by my answers. the nozzle is just a fitting it doesn't have any better Machining done to it than any other fitting that I've ever seen in my entire life. I think you're trying to find reasons to make a video because these examples are non-issues! You could take a ball-peen hammer and beat the hell out of the finish and its not going to add or subtract one bit of quality of the print as long as you don't hit the actual nozzle hole LOL You could scratch it with a file you can take a Dremel in curve little X's all around it it's not going to matter one bit.
@@FoxSock why would a machinist have better grammar that is about the stupidest thing I've ever heard. I am handicapped now and have to use voice recognition so it may have gotten some things wrong and I know it screws up punctuation continuously. I will have to re-read what I said
@Clown Whisper it would seem the people's egos are being threatened.. You can tell by the ad hominem attacks instead of attacks made against the arguments you made. One mustn't feed baby bears..woke mama bear will come and cancel you!
Playback SPeed 1.5 - thank me later ;)
You've done the lord's work. Have an upvote.
1.25 works for me..!! ;-)
word
I prefer 1/2 speed. :D
😂 🤣
Thanks for the insight into this hot end. I was almost going to buy one of these but decided on a Mosquito clone instead. Took me awhile to figure out what he meant when he kept saying "collect" for supporting the Bowden tube. Finally figured out he was referring to the "collet". And yes, watching this at 1.25 or 1.5 speed is much better...
co-LET 😂 😉 👍
He got me with that one, too.
Video sounds good even at 3.5 speed. This guy speaks so slowly.
I was half ways through the video just barely hanging in there with his verrrrry sloooow speaking. agonizing slow. Bumping it up to 1.25 was much more enjoyable to watch. The content is very informative BTW. :)
Great video! Do you have a link to the product?
I have looked on aliexpress in the Mellow store and can't find one with the pneumatic fitting only the one with the Bowden collt do you have a link for the one with the toothed fitting?
PT100 and PT1000 probes are not a type of thermocouple. They are still more accurately described as thermistors. They are simply a different construction than the more typical 10k glass bead thermistors.
You are correct, PT100 or 1000 are not thermocouples, they are platinum resistance temperature detectors (RTD), very nearly linear response. Thermistors are quite different, being very non linear, and very sensitive and the types used in printers are ntc, negative temperature coefficient of resistance, platinum has a positive resistance coefficient. NTC thermistors resistance decreases when they get hot, PT100 increases.
What do you think of the hotend made by Gulf Coast Robotics? They are also a U.S. company, but their hotend is less than half the price of one from Micro Swiss. I have a Micro Swiss hotend, but it is leaking so I need to take it apart and see if I can fix it. I might need to buy another one to get up and running sooner and I really don't want to spend the another Micro Swiss hotend.
You don't have it installed properly. You need to torque down the nozzle with a wrachet wrench while it's at operating temperature. The sheet metal wrench won't work.
@@clutchboi4038 Yes, I already figured that out. I took it apart and cleaned it which was a chore and followed Microswiss' instructions to the letter including torquing down the nozzle with a torque wrench. I have not had any problems since. Thanks for the information though.
Is there a link to this?
got any links for this?
Be sweet to post links to these Mellow parts that you feel are superior. Thanks
where can i buy this clone
How do you secure a cartridge style thermistor in this heatblock? It has the hole for it but no grub screw.
The hole for the cartridge thermistor gets smaller as it goes in, making friction the main way its held in
it floats around in it's hole. The screw just keeps it from pulling out... I guess.
@@andrewesquivel Not in my, just now, experience. The one they provide slips all the way through without a problem.
The myth that those two screws between the heater block and heat sink causes heat creep has been busted. In any case, if you sub stainless steel screws for the ones supplied there won't be a problem. i wouldn't want to depend on only that one tiny grub screw to keep the assembly together. BTW, you can also get a counter sink drill bit to add the missing counter sink to those screw holes in the heat sink.
I spent my money buying one of these, only had clogs. any configuration tips for ender 3 with bowden system ??
What's the internal diameter consistency like with this? Is the internal filament path as smooth as the Micro Swiss?
I know this was more a rant, but what is the real world print difference between PTFE lined, MicroSwiss all metal and the clones?
External design is one thing, but if the quality of the filament path is not good on the clones then they are not worth recommending.
is the micro swiss one 10x better than the clone? cuz they cost 10x more, im new to 3d printing but i dont really fancy spending a third the cost of my printer on a hotend
@@nekosimp7751 to be honest, I still use the stock Ender hot end on my 3D printer and have no issues. The only reason I would change to an all metal hoyend at all would be if I start printing high temperature filaments, and then I would have to modify the firmware anyway. For PLA and PETG the Stock Bowden Tube setup with the tube in the hotend works fine and I get really good results for what I want it for.
I was just asking the questions because some of those cheap hotends are poor quality and they end up worse than the stock hotend
can we please get links?
Did you do a song about sunscreen 🧴
Hi, quick question, do you not recommend a particular clone? Can you post a link? I am thinking Gulfcoast Robotics, but maybe the one you reviewed is better?
Search Mellow on aliexpress, they do high quality products
@@braugarduno3024 I've been looking for Mellow and I couldn't find them on Aliexpress. I found several others like Trianglelab but not Mellow.
@@bwselectronic This is what you're looking for: www.aliexpress.com/item/33058157309.html
Is this Baz Luhrmann (everybody's free to wear sunscreen)?
How about a link or hint or something
8:39 LOOK OUT HEADPHONE USERS!!!!
12:25
12:38
This is 2020, every manufacturer that still uses the heatbreak as structural component should be concerned.
Microswiss is way overpriced. The design is an improvement over the original, but not at 4x the cost. I'm glad there is competition. Microswiss will either become competitive or go under. As far as this video, it would have he,ped if you showed the microswiss differences and compared the two directly. I wish you put a link to this seller and item.
yeah, I was disappointed he didn't link the product in the description as well... TH-cam seems to inconsistently shadow block posts for links... but he said they were on aliexpress, and he gave the name mellow, so it's not hard to find luckily...
the issue with the bowden collect is easily fixed by keeping down pressure on the bowden tube and with a smal flat screwdriver you push up the bowden collect and lock the collect with the clip while keeping down pressure on the bowden tube
How hard would it be to replace the bowden collet with a pneumatic connector? Wouldn't all you have to do is pull the collet and then tap the hole for the connector?
I had my car Swiss custom make me a heatsink for reasons similar to this. The difference is I wanted to use a compression fitting which is superior to a Pneumatic coupler. I have a video on it on my TH-cam channel
It sure would have been nice, to have a link to the product described above. !!
Playback speed at 1.5 x sounds as the original version? 😆
Great video. Thanks you for all the detail, I learned a lot!
With all the detail Mellow put into this improved copy; do you have any suggestions on why they didn't countersink the screw holes for the X gantry attachment bolts?
One reason would be compatibility with inaccurate mounts hole spacing. CS bolts localise exactly, flat top allows a small amount of shift with the flat face still clamping correctly
You can countersink the holes yourself easily though..
link?
could you link to their store? I would like to purchase some :P
edit: nevermind, found them. great video! subbed
any link pls?
The new Micro Swiss only has the single set screw holding the heat block on. Sh*tty design.
mellow has a new version.. they claim it as upgraded but the heatsink is smaller
Lots of YTers have done experiments to determine whether the two fixing screws transfer heat, and the answer is no very little additional heat is transferred.
I have removed my Micro Swiss for the exact problems you describe, it was ok for a couple of months and then the Bowden tube started riding up and down the throat, I changed to direct drive but no matter how I adjusted retraction I was getting blobs on my prints, so it came off and I put the original Creality ht end back on
But, what other filaments can you print? I can't even print ABS without it clogging on every print using cura, simplicity, messing with settings... nothing works.
@@sasoritaiga I've printed using ESUN ABS and ABS+ filaments with an ender 3 original hotend using a capricorn PTFE tube and CHEP's cura profile, but by changing the temperature to the ABS required, and it runs perfectly normal without any issues for a long time. I always check the hotend and PTFE and everything is fine.
microswiss is a expensive waste of money
Bowden collect or collet? I'm unfamiliar with the term
Collet is correct
Do you own the original? If not, how can you compare both?
I do own a genuine microswiss. It has over 1000 hours on it. I basically run 2 machines, one with genuine parts and another with knock off parts
@@andrewesquivel ok thanks
I have two Ender 5 plus's, One runs the Creality Spider (another expensive one) and one has the Mirco swiss direct drive. Mine has a C clip that holds the Bowden tube and it works well, 10/10 for that one until you drop said c clip then your on your knees with a magnet. The Creality standard fair is good though, Not alot of difference print quality wise. But, Mirco swiss is shiny bling too, that has to count for something.
I’m willing to pay more for a product that is made in Canada or USA if there’s a good local customer service, good installation instructions, good warranty, fast shipping, etc. There’s a cost for that and I see this as value for customers. But $65... too much for me. $40 would be fair.
40? More 25-30. The didnt invent the wheel here, just claimed it's better than the original. "Made in America" automatically adds like a 30% premium.
Maybe microswiss should continue to innovate? Their direct drive system is bulky and takes up a ton of space. It isn’t good for flexible filaments. There are much better options out there as a whole for both of these. Especially considering you can just swap your mk 8 heatbreak for an all metal one.
I'd love it if they made a direct drive that had no exposed tube between the motor and the hot end.
Mine keeps clogging after 1 hour printing
Perhaps your tube isn't pushing all the way into your nozzle on the inside. I heard that is a common installation issue with this type of hotend.
from what i see people tend to run these on long bowden setups and blame the hotend on clogging. it is often too much retraction causing it instead that should be resolved by shortening your bowden tube or switching to direct drive
I really miss some soft of final word here. I skipped through the video because the content was a bit sparse, so I might have missed it.
The clone is better, because of what? Where is the link to buy one? What does it cost?
seems they answered most of these requests
Well thanks. When the time comes, it looks like there's no reason to pay a premium for Microswiss parts. The only reason I'd upgrade the hot end from stock would be to be able to print higher temp plastics and it looks like these Chinese hot ends actually do a better job for that. I assume they also make compatible direct drive kits.
Soft filament printing means noticeable hard filament printing precision losses with current "upgrades". Some want an affordable IDEX (upgrade) kit. I am waiting for some binding issues between filaments to get resolved / improved. I think, at least for now, it is wiser to buy a 2nd 3D printer and set it up for flexible filaments instead of sabotaging your hard filament printing.
I rather buy from an American Seller than sell my soul to this Chinese crap.
USA made doesn’t mean quality.
You should be a narrator for audio books. You definitely have the voice for it.
iF YOU WANT TO FALL ASLEEP ?
skip micro swiss and buy phaetus dragonfly bms it is capable of high temperatures and is just good quality and good design
Quick pet peeve, it's khal-let, not col-lect, and a Mk8 plated copper heater block has been available from Micro Swiss since 2018.
You could do good voice over work on creepy pasta and conspiracy theory videos.
Burger King foot lettuce -
The last thing you would want to find in your burger King burger is somebody's foot fungus
@@andrewesquivel Worse would easily be some vagrant worker's jock-itch fungus. "There's yer meat, buddy!"
Great video !!
You sound like Robert California to me lol
Thanks for this review and comparison and critical feedback
That I was listening to Loyd Grossman for a second then on that program" Through the keyhole
Great video - i have been having issues as I find the glass temp sensor very fragile as i am always meddling with the printer. I think we should recognise that the Chinese have been playing catch-up since they opened their markets, but the are certainly not constrained to cheap copies. They are an incredibly versatile, creative and industrious. They invented paper, gunpowder and probably a long list of other things so should not be underestimated
Look into hex bolt thermistors.
Bullet proof in my experience
@@andrewesquivel - many thanks Andrew - that does seem an optimal solution. I am a constant fiddler with my printer so end up breaking these more often than i should. I am in Malaysia so will need to see if Amazon will ship me one.
do they make them in steel somewhere? starting to think microswiss orders theirs from china, poor design
very miss leading video. I bought one of these clones and the printer can't even load filament properly due to some sort of clog right out of the box. PS there's no instruction. Now I am looking at getting an e3d v6.
Did you get a Mellow one??? Those are the high quality ones.
Currently thinking about upgrading and happy to buy a clone, but it is hard to know what is a good or bad clone. And its easy to spend more on 2 or 3 bad clones in both money and time than you would if you went straight to Microswiss. I am not American and have not allegiance to US products, particularly ones that hijack my country's name to market their stuff (MicroUS doesn't sound as good?). They are expensive but the name is solid where as Happy Living Fun brand has very little goodwill behind it. The secret in buying clones of anything is to find some that are their own version ie. rather than duplicate everything down to logos, they borrow (sometimes clearly in breach of intellectual property laws) the best bits and use their own ingenuity to improve. It happens and these products may be a bit more than the average clone but still cheaper than the original. As an aside, this theft by Chinese manufacturers seems to be karmically coming. back as there are some really good original products ranging from pocket knives through e cigarettes and 3D printer accessories, that originate in China, but are being copied, and are sometimes indistinguishable from the source apart from price, thereby diluting their own brands.
I use gulfcoast robotics, way better, I use the bolts for the heat block, I hate how it moves without them.
Did a comparison.
I love supporting American manufacturing whenever possible. But in this case, as I have printers with Micro Swiss direct drives, and a ruined print on each bed due to leaky hotends, I'll be ordering this clone and giving it a shot.
I had this problem with mine as well for quite a while. I think I've solved the problem by following the build instructions to a T. Specifically, the part where you take a crescent wrench to secure the heat block while you use a 7mm ratchet to tighten the nozzle at 230c. One must insure the heat break is completely bottomed out, first. Also, a brass nozzle utilizing a thermal compound on the threading is superior to steel. The only advantage steel has is wear resistance. Brass nozzles are cheap enough to replace as often as needed. Brass heats faster, and provides less resistance to the filament.
You need to install the nozzle properly. If you aren't using a rachet and socket to tighten the nozzle it will leak. Needs to be torqued with a wrench while at operating temperature. The sheet metal wrench that comes with it won't work.
@@clutchboi4038 That is how I used to do it. I still had issues. However, I switched to the Microswiss NG since and never looked back. Running the Microswiss hot end with no screws, and no issues. 6 months, it's been an absolute beast. I even accidentally put the decimal in the wrong spot on my extrusion multiplier, where is was supposed to be .9, but I set it to 9.0, and it didn't skip a beat. It shoved so much filament through that hot end lol.
Fun fact: i wondered why they carry „Swiss“ in their company name and asked them if they have a relationship to Switzerland, because based on their website informations they do not... no answer yet. 🤔
did they answer already?
@@certified-forklifter no. 😅
@@theoquasi oh okay. weird. have a nice day
It’s like companies using pro in the name to make people think it’s better than they actually are
"Swiss" is a type of machining using a special kind of lathe, see "Swiss lathe turning" TH-cam videos. It is used for small turning of high precision parts.
First they add "Swiss" so you think its some kind of special imported device. Next they are seriously over priced. Its not something that exotic we are talking here. Chinese can clone and sell it for four bucks compared to sixty five.
Swiss turning is the type of machining that they do to manufacture these. Look at "Swiss lathe" videos to see what it means.
If only China would make some quality nozzles I'd be happy as hell. 20 bucks for a Swiss nozzle is ridiculous
It just goes to show that "Made in America" is marking wank.
@@yeoj_ he says as he uses a chinese designed printer lol
@@knifeyonline 😂😂😂
We buy American because we care about and want our jobs to continue to exist. Buying Chinese made is stupid and short sighted.
@@losfromla1480 The fact you're typing this either on a computer or on a phone that was made in China prooves you don't get it.
It's a "call-it" (collet) instead of a cole-ect (collect)! argh
I almost buy one micro swiss for my ender 3 v2! Thanks for this review
what did you end up doing? did you buy an authentic micro swiss hot end or a knock off? I too have an ender 3 v2 and I wanna know what I should do
@@hermangaviria690 What did you end up buying?
@@TuncayAyhan I bought a clone from TriangleLabs. Best product ever, I've been printing PLA and it's been great, I had 1 or 2 clogs at first but everything is good. Also I recommend getting the NF-Crazy Plus hot end from Mellow. Look it up, it's a super jacked up hot end
@@hermangaviria690 I got myself a genuine micro Swiss. Must say. Smooth as butter.
@@hermangaviria690 I am not sure it makes much difference with PLA printing usually. I've never had a jam at all with my stock Creality using Capricorn PTFE with PLA as PLA prints at a low enough temperature that PTFE is not affected. PETG and others that use higher temps, that's quite different. PTFE doesn't like those higher temps.
What speeds are you printing at? :)
Microswiss just modified an open-source hotend and moved the contact point of the Bowden tube to a cooler area, they didn't create anything at all, in terms of clone, technically you can say they are cloning Creality's hotend. Upgrading to this hotend allows you to print at a higher temperature, no other benefits, it won't improve print quality, flow, or speed.
Honestly, most people think it's better because they paid $65 for it, you have to convince yourself it's better. Just print a few models from the microswiss hotend + nozzle, then print the same set of models from the $2 stock creality hotend + $0.25 brass nozzle and see if you can identify which from which.
Unlike Slice engineering, they created the Mosquito hotend, if you want to print fast, you need that, I would call that a piece design, but not the microswiss one, they used a higher cost CNC machine to make a $2 creality hotend, that's why you need to pay 30X more for the hotend and 60X more for the nozzle.
Even sponsored TH-camrs are just showing how to install their products, they don't want to say that can improve print quality.
Microswiss would be better off copying this design - it's like the Chinese company did their work for them.
Side note: I'll take an E3D V6 any day over Microswiss.
good morning, the channel is very good, i upgraded my ender 3, put a bigtreetech skr mini e3 v2.0 card and a tft 3.5 e3 v 3.0 screen, my question is, and a good idea to put this hot end on it, because I only print PLA, WHY DON'T LEARN STILL USE OTHER MATERIALS I tried wood, and there is no one who teaches how to use it, if you can help me with that too, please.
I will and did spend the extra cash to support Americans when I can.
also what is a "bowden collette"?
I do believe he said collet
OK agent Smith, we got it!
huh, you convinced me to get the knock off from aliexpress
That heatblock is bad and the thermistor placement absolutely terrible.
The clones are really hit&miss, quality can be astounding or utterly useless. WIth the original you won't have to gamble and their support is really great.
Clones from mellow&trianglelabs are pretty good
Same can be said about originals but for a lower % of ppl.
@@Ebani YEah but did you not see the part where they have good support. So say you get the 1% failure, you can get a new one. Most of these Chinese sellers will not do that.
@@JediOfTheRepublic Not at all, chinese sellers as bad as the support may be (which isn't bad at all, just takes longer bc it's literally an ocean away) they always return your money if anything goes wrong, i've had a lot more problems with Ebay and Amazon than with chinese stores 💁♂️
Shizzlefest. The mellow copper hot end is only $7 and it does indeed have the cartridge hole for a high temp thermocouple ($3). $10 and now I can print to 300 no sweat. The bead thermistors have ptfe insulation, so they are useless above 250 or so. $10 fix to a $70 micro swiss hot end. Rediculous, they could have had a happy existing customer.
... bead thermistors do not have ptfe insulation. It’s silicone.
@@JasperJanssen According to the specs I looked, they specifically list ptfe. Not saying you couldn't buy them, but I checked lots of sources and they were all ptfe. I'm set now with a cartridge thermistor with silicon insulation.
It has a hole for a cartridge thermistor, but no grub screw to secure it. OK to just stick it in and tape it to the heating element wires?
The chinese manufacturer is not trying to recoup his setup and development costs. Companies charge r&d off to consumers when they used to just develop a product and charge a fair price.
Like reading a tom Clancy novel
Thank you Nicholas Cage for the review.
Mr Anderson...
you have a great voice for narrated presentation. but too many pauses and too slow here
Did nobody else hear a higher pitched Nick Offerman voice?!
Dude the Mosquito has been copied too
An US company with swiss in their name…. Thats like a swiss watch company calling itself true american watches. Or can you complain chinese companies using a western name to get a better image in terms of quality?
Realistically the chances are the Microswiss was made in China at the same factory.
I honestly don't think that, as I contract microswiss to make me custom parts and their turn around time is stupid fast and ships from in the USA.
The thermocouple thing was the most disappointing for me.
I still prefer to support a company that sells quality products
ron swanson
They all copied each other, the 3d printed community is all about open-sourced. Then companies started to patent and try to claim ideas which is all bogus. It’s like patenting a software similar to android/linux.
thanks, this video just got you a sub, and me a new favourite shop on Aliexpress
I made three small bunnies..starter ones, already went through two microswiss hotends and two thermal breaks and 1 main heat sink, screws strip out, the thernal break snapped in two, ruining both parts all in less than a week
If i may ask, what happened to make all that break? I got well over 1000 hours on my genuine microswiss, and I haven't run into those issues.
Well done for making this video!!! I sincerely hope this would be a wake-up call for all those that think slamming "Made in USA, UK, EU" or whatever on their boxes automatically gives them the right to charge an arm and a leg for their products. BMG, Microswiss, E3D and others really need to cope on. I built my printers and have been using the same all-metal V6 clones from Mellow and Trianlge Labs for the last 1.5 year without any problems and even the same nozzles, gone trough kilos of PETG, PLA and ASA.. At the end of the day, when you see that just the hotend would swallow 1/4 of the cost of the entire build, well, you start looking for alternative, people vote with their wallets, rather than some fictional national pride.
What you forget here is the development cost which needs to be sonsidered too. The money spend to develop and design such a hotend (or whatever) needs flow back and new inventions want to be paid as well. However, many genuine products are really kinda expensive and could be cheaper for sure.
And to be clear, I buy clones as well but I partially understand the high price of a genuine product.
So what youre saying is micro swiss is stupid and completely content with being priced out of business by yet-another-chinese-company like most American manufacturers.
This is why IP is so important. People can duplicate a machined part without knowing any engineering/physics behind it.
Gonna buy the Chinese knock off. Id rather have the improvement.
Nice hotend. Just a point about the way you put the nozzle together. Nozzle first. Heat break second. Most important to get the nozzle seated against the block, not the thread of the beat break. A little thermal paste goes a long way right there too.
A little paste around the heater makes a nice difference as well btw.
@@GBCobber only paste that goes up to that temperature !! , over time it hardens also and can create problems removing the nozzle
What? Is there something special about this hot end? On all normal hot ends, especially all metal ones, a gap between nozzle and hestbreak is killing. You’re basically *never* supposed to have the nozzle tight against the block.
If that were true that would make them differently.
@@GBCobber ... can you give me a reason why? What do you think a half mm gap between nozzle and heat block brings, versus the known problems of having a heating chamber that is too big because there is filament oozing between heatbreak and nozzle, clogging the filament path up both literally and metaphorically?
Keana reeves
here is your 100th like :)
Playback speed 0.75x thank me later
If you're getting anywhere in a nozzle something is dramatically wrong. If I had to worry about a couple of dollar nozzle lasting longer because it's more economical I shouldn't be in this Hobby venue at all. I don't understand some of these comparisons I'm not trying to be a dick. But using tool steel 4 a nozzle seems to be absolutely silly. You can buy handfuls of .04 brass nozzles for only a couple of dollars it's not even an issue. As far as the coating they put on it I can guarantee all we are doing is dipping it in Bluing
Bought three of these clones for $3.75USD each AND they work amazingly well.
do you have a link?
@@knutstolzebeck3497 I found the complete Mellow hotend kit here: www.aliexpress.com/item/33058157309.html
@@beyondfossil 12V or 24V heating tube? 🤔
@@beyondfossil Hmm that link says $41. Did they go up, or is the link bad?
I believe Micro Swiss does make MK8 Nozzles in both A2 and M2 steel with their slick coating on them to keep filament from sticking to it. I have several of their MK8 and RepRap (E3D) steel nozzles.
store.micro-swiss.com/collections/nozzles
made in usa products make me feel confident that it will work with no issue
Isn't Creality a Chinese company?
@@jrgeiler yes a good one and it's open source
Majority of these “made in USA” companies, have their components built overseas. Some minor assembly or packaging in the US is all they need to call it made in US and charge you the premium price. Not worth it in most cases. Sadly US is not and will most likely never be the “manufacturing” super power it used to be.
@@tuloko16 I used to think the same about made in usa but after a bit of reading it's obvious that if does have some weight.
"According to the Federal Trade Commission, “Made in USA” means that “all or virtually
all” the product has been made in America. That is, all significant parts, processing and labor
that go into the product must be of U.S. origin."
Just to be clear: Mellow is another Chinese company relying on the distance of shipping to stick you with a product that you'd wish you could return, but you'll have to pay for shipping, which is always way more expensive than the cost to get their junk to you.
Their English Ability is poor and there are no instructions, just a box of crap that doesn't fit the printer you bought for, even though you asked them and they said, 'ok', it will work with your printer.
In my case, a cr10s v2.
So, buyer beware. You'll waste time and money getting their crap installed, then it'll be too short to work.
There's nothing exceptional with the Machining on that tool steel nozzle I promise you I'm a machinist if you can't tell already by my answers. the nozzle is just a fitting it doesn't have any better Machining done to it than any other fitting that I've ever seen in my entire life.
I think you're trying to find reasons to make a video because these examples are non-issues! You could take a ball-peen hammer and beat the hell out of the finish and its not going to add or subtract one bit of quality of the print as long as you don't hit the actual nozzle hole LOL
You could scratch it with a file you can take a Dremel in curve little X's all around it it's not going to matter one bit.
My god... Clown are you drunk? You made no sense other than your attempt to stroke your own ego.
@@FoxSock why would a machinist have better grammar that is about the stupidest thing I've ever heard. I am handicapped now and have to use voice recognition so it may have gotten some things wrong and I know it screws up punctuation continuously. I will have to re-read what I said
@@spermwater stroke my own ego how exactly?
@Clown Whisper it would seem the people's egos are being threatened.. You can tell by the ad hominem attacks instead of attacks made against the arguments you made. One mustn't feed baby bears..woke mama bear will come and cancel you!