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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ม.ค. 2022
- Cheaper, easier to build, and more tuneable - first tests of what the big DIY electric turbo would've been, had I known back then what I've learned since. Consider supporting my efforts on Patreon: / alexltdlx and join our forum: www.electrifiedboost.com To buy a P2 supercharger, click here: amzn.to/348g4L0
- วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![[MPD직캠] 베이비몬스터 치키타 직캠 4K 'LIKE THAT' (BABYMONSTER CHIQUITA FanCam) | @MCOUNTDOWN_2024.6.13](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/h99J4vWm7Ew/mqdefault.jpg)
For people who are new to the channel, thanks for watching and I'd suggest watching my favorite (and most eye-popping) video in this series - our first drag test of a similar setup that used this exact same motor: th-cam.com/video/AOL3Qyczt3Y/w-d-xo.html There have been 49 videos in this series that got us this far, and we've street-tested, dyno-tested and drag-tested various permutations; we've also blown stuff up, had significant fires and other stuff along the way. Here's the whole playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLhacdpER4T0vzo531cmfi_7fJWd-7DSSt.html And thanks for joining us on this journey!
HEY I DO DESIGN WORK. I HAVE A TURBO THAT RUNS OFF WASTE HEAT.
I would direct drive the compressor and dip out on the belt Might be worth it to pull a commerical housing off a garet turbo or somthign liek that
I have an honest question, would there be any worth while advantages to running two motors?
@@fanepoe9910 DEPENDS ON THE MOTORS.
I got a 01 Dodge Ram that needs a turbo so bad the truck is gutless do you think this electric turbo will work on my dodge?
Dude. This is insane. Without a doubt in the world, this guy is pioneering. This will be the future of boost. Total control.
Thanks for the kind words. I completely agree with you - I sincerely think this is the future of boost. In fact, that's our tagline on our forum: www.electrifiedboost.com
Actually electric driven Turbochargers have been tried years ago. Lancia years ago used an electric motor to spin their turbo chargers in The rally group B cars in order to reduce turbo lag
What rock did you crawl out from under? none of this is new it's just homemade
This has been done for quite some time. There are many vehicles that use electric driven turbochargers. Even hybrids that use electric and transition to exhaust once exhaust flow is sufficient so there's no lag.. this is just a diy one😂 cool still but for practical use they require a SERIOUS electrical system upgrade.
Too bad Garrett already beat him to it 20-30 years ago..
Love it. I'm so glad I randomly found this channel a few months back when you first started as it's my favourite. No BS, all testing, love it.
Thanks. I was a member of a vacuum tube audio forum some years back, and there was a guy on there (who has sadly passed away since), whose motto was, "more data, less wank." I love that idea.
Fancy finding you here 😉I've only just found this channel but seeing actual physical testing with the Data to back it up is awesome 👍
Man I remember watching one of your videos on this project acouple years ago. I subscribed then but TH-cam didnt recommend any more of your videos for me to watch, and I forgot about it. Then this one popped up, and wow it's great to see the progress you've made! This is awesome stuff!
I'd absolutely be interested in purchasing one of these kits once they're ready for market! I'm gonna keep following everything going forward. Thank you for this.
Thanks you for the kind words and taking the time to watch and comment!
Hey its Alex kowaliuk here I also work late and make poor choices. Thanks for the electric turbo knowledge. Cheers
Awesome project man, love the physical tests with data to back it up, I wish I could do tests this thoroughly. Super impressed with this great work buddy 😃👍
Thanks. To be honest I really enjoy the whole development process. Perhaps a little too much.
@@AlexLTDLX nothing at all wrong with that buddy, it's fun to try out different combinations get results from each one. And it's always great when you have success, unfortunately for me my testing seems to cost me engines 🤣
I'd suggest putting a ball valve on the restrictor plate for absolute control. If you add a discharge pipe and measure the air velocity you can calculate cfm and map the compressor fully!
Once I'm sure the belt drive system works, and we sneak up on max motor power, I'm just gonna put it on the car. I'm not a fan of endless bench testing. And I'm sure everyone is more entertained by tire smoke anyway :)
@@AlexLTDLX I enjoy both 🤣
@@AlexLTDLX how would you tune for something like this I would be interested in putting this on my ls swap
@@dannyreid1845 just put a little more injector or base fuel pressure (cheaper) to compensate for extra air if any lol
@@ChutneyInc. not sure if this is still a thing but back in the day Hahn racecraft had a thing called portfueller. Added 4 more injectors that kicked in when boost kicked in. U keep ur stock injectors. It came with the split second software to map.
Hey man, Glad to see I'm not the only one who's having trouble finding consistent documentation, or even many people talking about the 75/300 VESC in projects. I'm actually about to buy one for a 15HP electric outboard project I hope to work on in the summer. I'd love to see you do more video's featuring the VESC, and talking about your projects with it, and troubles you may or may not end up having with it. I'd be really nice to get to see moe of this VESC in action so I can know more about my how to best use it for my setup.
Thanks again for the video.
You're in luck - I'm about to shoot a full power test with this setup. It's a fine line, though - I try to keep my testing - like on the dyno or dragstrip - fairly concise, but these kinds of tests more detailed so people like you can hopefully get something useful out of it. Unfortunately, that also leads to whole bunch of, "Too much talking!" comments. I guess I just need to tighten up my presentation a bit. Thanks for watching and commenting!
having fun following along 👍
This got randomly recommended to me. Definitely in my area of interest. Very, very cool!
Thanks for the kind words and taking the time to watch and comment!
You and me both fella 👌
@@AlexLTDLX Channel looks right up my alley, subbed! :D
@@VintageTechRepairs Really cool to see someone putting serious effort into these ventures.
I had to watch this. I did this 20 years ago before brushless motors were a thing. Good job.
Thanks!
Love the progress!! Keep'em comin'.
Thanks. I just ordered XT90 connectors this morning so I can power it off the giant LTO cells in the car to get to full power. Should be a nice stop gap until the 53 hp brushless motor/1,000 amp ESC gets here - which, according to the company I ordered it from (last year yet), should be in transit from Europe very soon. And I very sincerely thank you for all your support!
I was trying this 10 years ago with my Suzuki Swift GT and RC speed controller and motors with turbo housings. Never did get it to work that well, maybe 3psi if lucky which did have an affect on the little 1.3L twin cam high compression engine .....this is STELLAR!!
Fellow GTi owner here.
Keep it up. Stay safe. The experiment & testing is very important or the project.
Thanks man. And thanks for watching and subscribing. I'm just loving this whole process and without you all's support, it would be impossible.
Appreciate you sharing this. I have a 67mm turbo and a coke can sized brushless motor i was going to pair together and see what psi it can push on 12 -14s.
Was watching the programming of Holley terminator x videos and rc car videos until the algorithm popped up this.
Cars and electronics, what more can you ask for! Subscribed.
Thanks! We did drag test a similar setup on 16s if you haven't seen it: th-cam.com/video/AOL3Qyczt3Y/w-d-xo.html
I love stuff like this,thanks for the entertainment
Thanks for watching.
Once perfected. This is the future
You can get a to motor with a high kv rating that will spin even faster per volt you apply to the motor. I run a 16s 650kv TP motor in my 5th scale losi 5t rc an it's so powerful. Love what I'm seeing here.
Thanks. The problem is finding the balance of RPM and torque. We've discovered that using this motor for direct drive becomes torque limited; thus the step up ratio - I'm trying to find that optimum balance. One of the things I left out of the video is just how crap-tastic those pullies are. I had to order that one from McMaster-Carr for $30 and it wobbled more than a drunk on a tightrope (.021" runout). I had to chuck it in the lathe, bore/ream the hole straight, make a press-fit plug and re-drill/ream the hole straighter. And because the flanges were apparently installed by a chimp with a hammer, that was a bit of a challenge. I actually pulled the box out of the trash just to see where it was made. India is the answer. Take that for what it's worth. It still has some run out, but it's about 4 times better than it was.
Alex, did you give up on the speedmaster blower? Any reason? Great videos! I have a p2 now and working on using it on a motorcycle ;)
Wow simple test and it give good idea! I will make some test before the summer I think! I will figure the surge problems I had..
Now I understand what you meant by your post in the forum. I assume you're talking about the restrictor plate in the "snorkus?" You can also buy a large ball valve, but this was easier, cheaper, faster and much more repeatable.
Electric super/turbocharging seems like a great idea that was put down because of the tendency for them to be knockoffs (like the electric fan in the duct). It has been successfully done by OEM's like Volvo and works well. It seems nice, because if you could scavenge electricity from the exhaust stream through an exhaust turbine connected to a electric motor as well; you could get a setup that gives perks like a twin charged engine without the cost and complexity of plumbing. The challenge at that point would just be keeping the electric motor cool on the exhaust side and programming an IC to control when, and where it pulls energy to give the optimum running conditions
this would be really interesting in a marine inboard application allowing one to add boost while continuing to use the factory style water cooled exhaust manifolds
That's a really interesting application. You're right.
You're the kinda guy somebody like Yamaha needs to snap up. Great observation, that's the kind of stuff that leads to cool new things coming out.
@@andycraig6905 Hey, I appreciate it bro.. I love what Alex is doing with this from a performance standpoint. Trickle down, how does it apply to a daily? does it give us anything over a traditional hot side if we have to add a battery and up the alternator/ cpu/ wiring? kinda makes me gravitate towards conveyances that already have robust battery/ electrical sitchiashuns (possibly misspelt). On a hybrid car/ ute it allows for a dramatically smaller engine (its all about the package at that point). or one could change the strategy altogether re hybrids; put this on a small engine, use the electric turbo to immediately spin the engine to 3k and use the set-up to do nothing but charge/ maintain the batteries. I also like it a lot for diesel conveyances that already come with multiple batteries.. Cheers, Dave
I see the biggest issue is the indirect drive. Losses are always going to be a drag...
finding a electric motor that can direct couple would see best noise reduction as well as lowest losses not to mention, smaller package. Water cooling is going to be on the crads I would say as you will need to sink a lot of heat energy soon.
Version 1 was direct drive (and will continue to be). It was also water cooled; but that turned out to be necessary. I had the same thought about the belt, but this one does have the advantage of "tuning" it to put the motor in it's torque vs rpm "sweet spot." Check out what the first version did on the drag strip - it's eye-opening: th-cam.com/video/AOL3Qyczt3Y/w-d-xo.html
I learnt something new today.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to post!
If this man keeps this up we will have formula 1 KERS systems in our personal vehicles. Like put the regeneration braking system of the electric vehicles on a regular gasoline-powered vehicle and use that energy to charge the batteries for that electric turbo.
Hey this is amazing content. Sorry if this has been gone over before, but what about using 2 or 3, hell even 4 motors of higher kv rating?
Thanks for the kind words. That's certainly a possibility, but in four days I'm supposed to take delivery of a 53hp, 50,000 rpm LMT 30100 motor and an MGM 1,000 amp ESC. If you haven't see the drag test of the first version of this thing, check it out: th-cam.com/video/AOL3Qyczt3Y/w-d-xo.html It was pretty eye opening.
Any arm chair mechanical engineer can see the weak link at proper boost RPM is going to be the belt. The cars and bikes in the salt flats have a hard time keeping the rubber on the rims at extreme RPM's too.
Electric turbo's really need a from the ground up redesign to work properly. The electric motor and turbine rotor blended into a single component to get rid of all gearing and needs for belts, sprockets, chains or gears.
Version 1 was direct driven; please watch this first drag test video to see how surprisingly effective it was (0-60 dropped from 4.1 to 2.6 seconds): th-cam.com/video/AOL3Qyczt3Y/w-d-xo.html This one is an attempt to make the same power cheaper, easier and more compact.
This is badass man! The science & math is beyond my skills but I'm mechanically inclined and tinker alot with stuff too.
Thanks! And it's beyond my skills too. I'm just dumb enough to try it.
@@AlexLTDLX well then I can relate 😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣 🤜🏾🔥🤛🏾
That motor looks like a brushless rc motor, that’s crazy
It is - when I first start this project I had no idea RC motors have gotten so powerful.
Awesome dude
I've been following for a long time now and as always I'm very excited with your progress Alex. I'm extremely interested in using this in a compound setup with the new Supra. It would allow me to use a large, laggy turbo for huge high RPM horsepower while still having a usable bottom end.
That's exactly what Audi uses the electric turbos for in the diesels they sell in europe. It most certainly would be quite good for that and you wouldn't need a big unit.
@@AlexLTDLX Right! Though I'm not sure in the Audi's case the supercharger remains engaged throughout the rev range? I would like to keep it going, fed by the turbo, because I forget the exact formula but the boost increase is more than simply A + B
What about a compound electric motor system? Two motors turning a single smaller drive, that runs a larger drive to turn the drive inside of the centrifugal?
So, two motors turning smaller pulley, that smaller pulley connected to larger one, that's turning the centrifugal. Would allow to hit higher RPM on the impeller, and you should have less strain on the electric motors having them work in tandem, with potentially a smoother operation that would allow for higher range of use.
That would work; but you can actually directly gang brushless motors together. Or you can do what I've done - just order a 40kW, 50,000 rpm motor (this one is only stable up to 14kW) with a 1,000 amp ESC. That's when things are going to get interesting.
Friend of mines working on a ac powered turbo with cooler and all but he swears it will be much better then stock turbo setups
.more effective in high heat high psi cases
..he is big on this method ...
Okay so I want to buy this kit but have questions. Will this work on a 1985 Monte Carlo 4.3 V6? If so, where do I buy it on your forums?
Well you got my attention for electric turbo and supercharger !
Liked and subbed ✔️
Awesome! Thank you!
@@AlexLTDLX
For sure ! Are you on IG ?
@@meca13b I do have an account, but I don't use it. I hope too soon - I'm in a position to start putting more time into these projects fairly soon; I'll be posting updates on here in the next couple of weeks. Thanks again!
@@AlexLTDLX
Look forward to it !
I’m 💯 % as ill like to try on a project
I don’t want to put out yet .
Kinda the first in such a crammed
Platform. Love to chat and share when time permits.
Perhaps the motor needs to be computer managed using pulse width modulation. Maybe take input from throttle position sensor. Last thought...exhaust heat and pressure are already there for free.
Mate I really would like one to try on my falcon
Cool! Are you gonna end up putting kits together to sell? I wouldnt mind trying this out on my ford inline 300 that im hot rodding
I may start selling parts for these things on our forum, www.electrifiedboost.com as soon as I'm confident in the durability of this setup. In particular, the belt drive and the ESC.
Good stuff ,won't be long till we can turbo our cars easier
I agree. I really think this is the future of boost.
Once they get the getting right ,then run it of the lectronic throttle
What kind of motor and rpm should the turbo turn?
Isnt it possible to change the ratio of the motor shaft to the turbine shaft, so that the turbine could turn like 5:1 to the electric motor to generate even more boost? Or would does it require more torque to spin the turbine? If so, how difficult would it to reliably do so. Could you make an entire transmission to change gear ratios, therefore changing boost pressure on the fly?
It does require more torque to spin the impeller - in fact, it's pretty surprising how much torque it takes, particularly as rpm increases.
would a sprag / one way clutch help with belt life and bearing life and does the brushless dc motor act like a dynamo with the impellors inertia after a full power. cheers
Probably not worth the effort. It spins down pretty fast, and a blow off valve does the trick (my buddy Brian tested to make sure it worked on our first dyno test). But I do share your concern about belt life. The bearings are way understressing in this application. I'm setting up a full power test right now - we'll see if the belt holds.
So...this is a Turbo for a Tesla? ;-)
Great video, very informative and quite easy to understand with a fantastic Host. I´m curious about the next project step.
Thank you for the kind words.
Alex, you know I am not a technological person. I am good at making things operate. I really, really, want to set up something simple to put on my 3.5 honda that could be used every day. Say with four 12 volt lipo batteries in the back should run it, and have a special alternator built to charge it all. I am no pioneer. I would love a list of stuff to purchase and your videos are so awesome a few notes to set it up and see what happens. I may have come off wrong in the past, I apologize for that. Always thinking sir! Your the man.
No worries - I might make an updated, "What's it cost and what do you need" video in the near future. Right now I'm focusing on the new place and getting moved down.
Let me clue you in on a little discovery I made, I think Tesla knew about this also because I saw a couple of his dc small motors that looked similar to mine. Take your power leads and extend them out 10 ft. And increase the gauge of wire. By 1 gauge up. Now start where the wires go in to the motor, and neatly close to geather tight. Wind them around the motor in direction of motor rotation. Wind only one layer of the wires around the body of the motor,all the way across the motor. Use insulated wire and put down a layer of ductape around the motor First to lay the power wires on to protect from shorting and heat. Wind bothe power and groun flat togeather. Then ductape the wires around the out side to hold them in place. Then connect to controller or whatever you need to. Now you will have a unbelievable power increase without increasing input power and a rpm increase also ,and the motor will also run much colder. I have achieved sometimes double or more the power and rpm.
Does this setup make any boost without the snorkuss?? Will it make 5 lbs at double the rpm with the snorkuss? Could it run at double the rpm or more?
Well it wouldn't really make any boost without the snorkus because it'd be wide open and the compressor would go straight into choke. Technically a centrifugal compressor does make boost in the volute, but it's really only a couple psi. Running wide open it really doesn't give you much useful data. It's more of a test for current draw to make sure everything holds up. But since we know our compressor map and we've drag tested a similar unit and know the power it should make - about 650hp at 4 psi: th-cam.com/video/AOL3Qyczt3Y/w-d-xo.html we can now approximate its performance on the engine by finding the right size hole in the snorkus.
That just sound futuristic. This is so cool, but what if for testing you ran it from the wall socket for a fixed power rating?
It does sound interesting... I think it's the cogged belt and brushless sound combined. I actually played that sound a bunch of times while editing. I can't run it from a wall outlet - even at this level (which is about 1/4 max power), it would still pull more than twice the wattage our wall outlets can provide. At full power, even the 230 volt/30 amp outlets in the garage could only provide less than half the necessary power. Thanks for taking the time to watch and comment!
Alex, that’s what #6 stranded wire and 50a two-pole breakers are for. Haha
(Electric stove/a/c circuit)
And not that I’m suggesting you power this thing with your house power, but if that’s the only setback, that parts easy.
Coming from a high-efficiency hvac installer.
It definitely makes a unique sound… but truth be told, the noises that you hear electric motors are generally emitted as a result of friction from ball bearings at high speeds. When the bearings In electric motors start to fail, you will hear that whine get much much louder and start at lower RPM.
F1 cars use a similar method , however the electric motors is there to fill in the gaps , like an old school anti lag system.
I really enjoy the data and the thought process and the learning setup
But I immediately liked and subscribed and love it just because 1990s Tom Hanks is giving the lecture 🤣🤣, could it be any better if your voice was similar to Morgan Freeman or micro
Thanks! And I get Iron Man, Nicholas Cage and Tom Hanks. If only I was any of them (well, early Nick Cage - pre Wicker Man. That was just bad.
@@AlexLTDLX what is the forces on a timing belt if you were to increase the diameter of the pulleys
Like don't solid fill the pulleys, I'm thinking the turning around a 1 inch pulleys at 55k rpm might be as much of the heat, until you get to such a large pulley diameter that the centrifugal force rips the belt apart.
Might be an option for a cooler belt
Keep it up. We need more people to experiment with these ideas. This is where the future is going.
I agree with you 100%. Thanks for the kind words!
This is awesome
How much power will I gain with my v6 camry trd and when I'm not using the boost how much power do I lose at it will be a restriction
Depends on the base hp of the engine. As for the restriction, it's about equivalent to 1 psi of boost loss on a 500hp 6.0L V8. So you'd certainly see much less than that. If you haven't seen the drag test or the dyno test videos, they're worth watching: th-cam.com/video/nlTVHkfSQXM/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/PjOJU02FIGw/w-d-xo.html
What about a dump valve or some kind of electronic clutch when it goes into choke mode?
I have a blow off valve in the car. But this blower is undersized for my car's engine anyway (365 ci, 500 hp). It's tap dancing around the choke line as it is. I'm thinking the current limits on the VESC would be great to control it towards choke - maximizing the power without getting into motor saturation. On a smaller engine, it probably would be better to control the boost with a MAP sensor and arduino (we have a pretty well developed arduino code thanks to one of our forum members at www.electrifiedboost.com).
I have a 2.5 inline 5 VW that I wanted to supercharge but there isn't a kit, I'd gladly pay for this and let you do a video on the results
I appreciate the offer, but would need to do a good bit more development before I subjected somebody else's car to it.
I was reading through the comments and there was a good question how are you lubricating the bearings on the turbo ?
These are sealed bearings, but I generally like to use Isoflex NBU-15 grease from Kluber. It's expensive, but works extremely well.
The motor speeds up when you put your hand over the outlet cause the compressor wheel stops moving air you need a lot of flow through the unit for the wheel to move air that's why there's big load with the exit open the wheel has a firm flow happening and moving big volumes of air it's also why the amps went up with the 1" hole .the 1 "is still to small to flow enough for the compressor to grab enough air and actually start to work efficiently .it won't start making surge noises till its right at the start of coming onto the compressor and flow is coming and going as the wheel grabs then cavitates over and over it will just sit there happily churning air
Help me out here, for me to know about if it is helpful for me i need to know engine size engine rpm engine vaccum ,super charger cfm,super charger rpm,voltage ,load,and pressure on engine and ported vaccum, vs manifold vaccum, and pressure difference, im sure im forgetting stuff and probably saying some of the actual things wrong, but i think some things arnt being mentioned
I’m kind of new to this stuff but is it possible that you could like maybe use a pulley off of the crankshaft to a pulley on the spinny thing and use a belt to connect the pulleys and have the running engine rotate the spinny blower thing?
Don’t hate on me too hard I’m just kidding!! I think it’s awesome that you are making this work off of batteries! It seems like you are very close. I’m glad I found your channel and I am already looking forward to the next video!
Lol. Thanks! We already tested a very similar unit -but it was more complicated to make it more expensive: th-cam.com/video/AOL3Qyczt3Y/w-d-xo.html
I've been thinking of doing a direct drive 60k rpm Neu Motor1539 0.75Y motor (~48v set up) or 0.25Y (~12-14 v setup). It's a very high quality motor and does 3500W continuous / 7000W peak. This was just my first idea without knowing any of the real loads or the compressor map. My car applications would either be a 3.2 or 1.6L engine and aiming for 5-8 lbs of boost. I'll definitely be watching some more of your videos and checking out your forum. I was eyeing up this supercharger and was wondering what the pulley end looked like and how hard it would be to make a coupler as a direct drive setup. I would rather spend the money on a nice motor than buying pulleys and belts. I played this game of high RPM drives for a 15 lb combat robot in high school where we were driving a #35 chain at 30k+ rpm on a Neu 1515 1Y motor (it held together impressively).
Think of it this way: it takes about 4kW to support 200 hp. Our first version made 650hp on 13.3kW. Don't get caught up in boost numbers because the classic rules don't apply - there are no pumping losses with an electric setup and no parasitic drag. You can certainly direct drive it (the first version was, and will be - but this time with a 40kW motor to push the compressor to it's limit. This version is stupidly simple to build, and more compact and cheap. That's why I built it.
@@AlexLTDLX Thank you for the power estimate. That makes it easy. The physics make sense...it comes down to mass flow rate being flung outwards from the centrifugal impeller. My application will be for autocross for 40-60 seconds, with periods of coasting between full throttle stints.
Particularly for the 1.6L application, it would be very easy to do this on 12v. Especially with a megasquirt and a map sensor already being used.
@@AlexLTDLX I have a mini CNC mill, so making an adapter won't be too bad. I've done many more complex things, like build a custom cylinder head from scratch that uses rotating tubes instead of valves to let the air in and out. It takes a lot of good judgement to make something like that work. I have a bunch of videos of them (Briggs and Stratton, as well as a 2.8L Bmw inline 6)
I wonder if this is similar to what Porsche is working on? I think it was a few weeks ago, it was leaked that Porsche filled patents on a new Electric turbo to be used with their "hybrid" engine. Hybrid as it's a dual system, and the electric turbo is used to negate the temperature issue and dependency on using the exhaust when dealing with conventual turbos. I can't remember the fine details, so i'll have to do some research on it again and compare.
Sort of. But that's a baby unit designed to fill the gap during turbo lag. We're going big. If you haven't seen it, check out our first drag tests: th-cam.com/video/AOL3Qyczt3Y/w-d-xo.html Prepare to be surprised.
Hello. Are you able to remove the 18 tooth 5T pulley that is on the impeller shaft and replace it with a standard 6 rib belt drive pulley? What does the impeller shaft look like where it meets the inside of the current pulley? Is the shaft smooth? Is it keyed or welded on?
No - the toothed pulley is machined into the impeller shaft. A 6 rib setup would be hard to implement in such a small space; it would absolutely need a tensioner and a dynamic tensioner is much more effective than a manual one. Either way, I'm not thrilled with the heat build up from the belt; I may run it hard and see if it fails. If it does, then I'll simply switch over to direct drive. I'll be back on this soon. Just need to catch up with life first.
@@AlexLTDLX could you put 1:1 gears on a twin engine motor mount? And would you see benifit in having 2 of these work half the amps and make more efficient power from the electric motors?
Cuz at this point arnt you testing the durability of the electric motors tolerances?
Do you have any interrest in installing this into a smaller displacement engine?
Not really. Torqamp already has the smaller displacement stuff covered.
Turn it up man!!!
Lol. I've already blown up 4 ESCs just turning it up. I'm being a bit more careful this time...
Hi, why not use a steady power supply versus batteries? In a real world use case, the cars power supply could be tapped to power. This is a very cool video. I myself am into rotaries. Heat with rotarys is magnified under boost scenarios. I've been curious about the possibilities for using electric based forced induction to reduce the crippling heat caused by a standard turbo. Can't wait to watch the next videos on the topic.
The problem is a car's electrical system is nowhere close to be able to supply this kind of power. We were seeing a consistant 14 kW with the first version, and this new setup coming in (not here yet) is capable of 40kW peak.
what's the connector used on the vesc three phase output wires?
None - I had to solder them on.
very good
Thanks
Sounds like my old table saw to a tee.
lol
Can someone explain to me why you would want an electric turbo? Just found out about this and it looks interesting but I can't quite wrap my head around why you would want to do this. Is it because you can basically modulate the RPM to whatever and whenever you want separately from the engine?
The answer is (in my case) having instant power when I want! In my daily drive car, I have a normal 2.0 n/a engine (a little bit slow) and sometime I want to floor it and having more power the electric turbo go's ON and now instant power and more efficent!
A lot of reasons. Extremely easy to install (and remove); far more efficient than either superchargers or conventional turbos (which incur substantial pumping losses); that means much more power with less boost, that means less need (or no need) for intecoolers, which add weight, complexity and $$; you can tailor your boost curve to whatever you want - want more low end torque? Done. Want more high end power? Done. Want both? Done. No stresses on the crank bearings like a supercharger; no belts to throw, no complex wastegate piping, etc, etc. If you haven't seen it, check out what only 5psi of electric boost can do at the track: th-cam.com/video/AOL3Qyczt3Y/w-d-xo.html
was just looking into this and found this. you uploaded while i was searching :)
anyways dumb question, can you power this inlet turbo using another exhaust turbo. so less strain on battery once you start boost? is this even possible?
maybe the proper question is how much electric power can be generated from a exhaust turbo.
That's a good question. I actually don't know. If we look at everything as simply energy, you've touched on one of the major advantages of this system. A conventional turbo is frequently though of as "using wasted energy" i.e. the heat that goes out the exhaust. Now it's true that conventional turbos use some wasted energy, but in order to work at all, the turbine side of a turbo requires a pressure differential on either side of the turbine. The way that's achieved is by creating a restriction in the exhaust, creating backpressure. And since no mechanical system is 100% efficient, the pumping losses incurred by the turbo must cause some loss. The electric turbo idea doens't incur these losses, which explains the insane power gains we saw from only 2 psi on the dyno - we picked up 64 rwhp from only 2 psi. No conventional turbo can match that. If you haven't seen the video, it's here: th-cam.com/video/84wSLQRy9sc/w-d-xo.html That was early days, and since then we've doubled to boost level and took it drag racing: th-cam.com/video/AOL3Qyczt3Y/w-d-xo.html Thinking this through, I'd love to see someone dyno test a turbo being spun up be an engine, and creating boost on the compressor side, but not shoving more air into itself to make more power. Horsepower and electrical power are directly related (1 hp = 746 watts). To be honest, I also don't know the answer to the other part of your question - but I don't think using a conventional turbo to "help" the electric compressor would work, at least no to any significant degree. I say this because I've driven hundreds of miles with the electric turbo on the car, and the electric turbo's impeller NEVER spins on its own due to airflow. In fact, I've datalogged how much of a restriction is actually is on a 500hp N/A engine - it's exactly equivalent to 1 psi of boost LOSS. Which, in the grand scheme of things, isn't much at all. In normal driving, it has zero impact on power or gas mileage. Like I said - you have good questions that lead to more questions...
@@AlexLTDLX thanks for the reply. Will look into it. My thought is, the electric turbo is still not using the exhaust energy which is still being wasted. There's gota be some use for it.
I saw the other videos, impressive.
I have a 370z, and id like to use electric turbos on it. Even for 100hp would be great.
How long would that battery charge last? Can you race around a track or the battery would die after few uses. I wonder if anyone tried this on a Z with 2 intakes.
@@AlexLTDLX Use it the opposite way. Use the electric turbo to pressurize the exhaust turbo until it starts producing boost equal to the electric. What this will do is extend the boost curve lower in the rpm range. Use a boost sensitive switch to cut it out. A turbo powered car one of these plumbed in to begin boosting from sub 1500 rpm would be ideal.
This is how I envision it operating. It is a compound arrangement that turns conventional.
A metal or plastic Y the same diameter as the exhaust powered turbo compressor intake.
The 3 arms of the Y are arranged thus:
The bottom of the Y goes to the compressor intake, one branch of the Y is normal filtered air, the other side of the Y is connected to the electric turbo. A flap is fitted that is hinged in the valley of the Y.
This is how it all functions.
The electric turbo feeds into the compressor of the turbo via the Y piece with an electrically operated flap to close in a way that cuts the non electric turbo arm of the Y from intake air.
When the electric turbo is ON the flap directs all intake air via the electric turbo only. This is to allow the electric turbo to produce pressure before the exhaust turbo compressor and indeed in the entire intake tract. If the flap wasn't there the electric turbo couldn't produce boost at all as the boost air would back feed out the other side of the Y since the other arm of the Y is for 'conventional' mode intake.
As the exhaust driven turbo equals the boost pressure of the electric turbo, the flap changes position to allow the engine to draw intake air from either/both sources since it doesn't matter where the air comes from when the electric turbo is off. This may also have the effect of making the transition between electric and exhaust turbo smoother or more seamless. As the boost continues to rise a boost sensitive switch cuts out the electric turbo.
This is not entirely my idea.
Similar has been done before and was common albeit with 2 stroke Diesels.
Bear with me for a sec a bit of background is in order. Detroit Diesel Uniflow 2 stroke had an interesting arrangement.
Uniflow Diesels require a Roots blower to run. These are the same blowers that are the basis for superchargers - a 6-71 blower is off a Detroit inline 6, 71 cubic inches per cylinder.
Back to the blowers, the Uniflow or 2 stroke Diesel is arranged with a conventional wet sump, camshaft operated exhaust valves in the cylinder head and a unit injector also camshaft operated. A ring of ports in the cylinder is used to aspirate the engine. The blower supplies the air gallery that the cylinder sleeves pass through and the ring of ports align with. The pistons have to have rings above and below the gudgeon pin to stop pressurizing the crankcase and the gudgeon pins have special plugs over them to seal them from combustion pressure.
The blower supplies constant pressure at .7psi. They are not supercharged in any way or form, the .7psi over atmospheric is for some altitude, temperature and normal wear and tear compensation to ensure the engine makes rated power. Detroit even called them 'n' for natural.
When you want more power from a uniflow Diesel while maintaining the same max rpm then you have some issues. The problem with geared blowers is they lose pressure with increasing density altitude therefore power. To compensate you can turn them faster or try a bigger blower that actually produces true boost but then adiabatic heating could become a durability problem in trucks fitted with Roots blowers turned supercharger. The blower lobes can't touch each other or the case when they get hot - no matter what, and when they're cold the gap is too big - what to do?
Detroit Diesel fitted a turbo feeding into the blower because the blower is still required. They bypassed the issue literally.
Turbo Detroits did not delete the blower because starting, idling and light load still required the blower to aspirate the engine when the turbo couldn't. What they did is modify the blower to have a spring loaded bypass flap and passage where boost pressure would overcome blower air gallery pressure and redirect the intake air from the blower lobes bypassing the blower while under boost even though the blower was still turning. The pumping losses for a Roots blower are in the order of 100hp depending on stuff, using a bypass flap saved ~30hp. Unremarkably turbo blowers are called bypass blowers.
Next they added a liquid to air aftercooler under the blower.
This is where it get a bit interesting, EMD and Detroit Diesel were both divisions of General Motors. EMD Diesels are also uniflow albeit with larger 567, 645, 710 cubic inches per cylinder but in all respects operation is identical. EMDs are all 45deg Vee and they exhaust in the Vee. Detroit 2 Strokes are not all Vee there are many inline configs and all the Vee engines exhaust on the outside in the conventional location.
What EMD did with their turbo engines so their V12s, 16s and 20s was to go a hybrid arrangement. They deleted the camshaft operated Roots blowers entirely. They went to a centrifugal blower with an overrun clutch. For starting, idling and lower power settings the crank would drive the compressor but at a higher pressure than .7psi in Detroits (I can't remember but perhaps 6 or 8 psi??) then as the engine spooled up the turbo would begin producing more boost than (the hypothetical) 6 or 8 psi and the overrun clutch would allow the compressor to free spool. This also had the advantage of the turbo and crank being able to work in conjunction with each other in certain circumstances rather than exclusive of each other in the Detroits.
On the Silver Series, Detroit Diesel nearly developed an EMD style hybrid turbo instead of the bypass flap the earlier Detroit Diesel turbo 2 strokes had.
The Silvers were a marvelous thing but even so didn't reach their fullest potential. Development costs combined with the fact 2 strokes were on the way out for other reasons beyond the scope of this description caused them to stay with the flap and the parasitic blower even when it wasn't being used.
What if instead of like a timing belt drive set up you did like a cvt style set up. So as the motor spins faster it’s actually able to increase gear ratio to increase speed vs just trying to spin the motor itself faster.
That's a thought. But the blower came with the toothed belt pulley on the impeller shaft already, making this super-easy to build - that's the point of this version - cheap, easy and quick. The big bastard coming down the pike will be direct-drive, and a bit over powered (or under-compressored, depending how you look at it).
I love it. Hybridizing old motors. Why not upgrade to a 60 volt battery?
This was just low power testing. I am using a 60 volt battery in the high power tests (the two newer videos). But here's a look at the batteries: th-cam.com/video/KscgGhk3ejs/w-d-xo.html
Was that 3 psi? Because that would make any car go like a bat out of hell!! Iman R/C enthusiast and i looked everywhere for a n electric motor in 540 size to over 50000 rpm? Yet i cant find anything! Cheers 🙂
Conventional turbo thinking doesn't really apply. Think more along the lines of a Vortech or Procharger supercharger - they require less rpm. We picked up over 200 wheel horsepower recently on the dyno on a 6.0L V8 and were only spinning 32,000 rpm: th-cam.com/video/b9d5xv9INmw/w-d-xo.html
would be really neat eventually seeing this in a car with a propper charging system and computer controlled with maybe a arduino if it doesnt have too much delay. tough i think it might take a while before that happens. would be interested in doing this myself one day when i have a small fortune to use on stuff like this.
I dunno know if you saw it - but I've already got such a thing installed in the trunk of the LTD: th-cam.com/video/J7glXHY3AbI/w-d-xo.html In fact, if you're new to the channel, here's what I think is one of the coolest videos we've done - drag testing the electric turbo: th-cam.com/video/AOL3Qyczt3Y/w-d-xo.html The results were rather eye opening.
Nice hadnt seen that control box.
Nice setup. With the arduino do you keep the motor turning a certain rpm or do you set it to switch off completely. I might have a barometer sensor or whatever its called keeping a slight positive preassure by ramping the speed up and down with the arduino. Should be better than going from standstill
@@TheSimonarne Sounds like you, my friend, really need to join our forum at www.electrifiedboost.com It's relatively new, so it's still pretty small; but one of our members developed pretty comprehensive arduino code for these things. We've got a pretty smart crew of people over there - an electrical engineer, a software engineer, a CNC machinist, just to name a few. And your idea is one we've discussed recently. In fact, I really need to do a video on his code. To answer your first question, I only turn on the e-turbo when the load read by the engine's MAP is high and rpm is over 3,000 rpm. But that's programmable via the car's ECU (Megasquirt MS 3x). The arduino code allows for a lot of variables - ramp up time, max pulsewidth adjustability via a pot, even controlling the charging circuitry - and that's not even close to all...
I've been running a Paxton Novi 2000 at around 1:3 with a 2 1/2" 8mm belt-drive off a Me 0913 72vdc 250 amp BLDC in my 87" Camaroe with a .060 over smblk 350 for years. It makes 8 psi w.o the engine running with a 300 amp initial surge and selltles to about 160 A while operating. Typicall the duty cycle is less than 15 seconds. I power it with six 40 -50 ah AGMs in series. Two where each back seat use to go, and two in the trunk well. I can charge them on the fly with six 2A smart chargers plugged three each into a couple of 1.5K inverters that are powered from a second aux electrical system. . I started back around 02' when I saw my first LEMCO PM motor displayed at a trade show for amusement rides on a go-cart frame. It was 36v and about 10 hp yet made only a couple of lbs. next I went to a 12 hp Lemco D-126 and got 4lbs, and then I discovered three phase BLDC which you are already using on a smaller scale. If I upgrade I plan to try one of the new axial flux motors because I think they show the most promise to date. Most people underestimate how much power it takes to pump under pressure. Had I known from the beginning I probably wouldn't have even tried. That blower that comes on the Hellcat takes 60 hp off the crank for about 8 psi according to a factory video i saw on it. That's a hellova lot; however, I think that much power might be possible to obtain now with axial flux motors because they can be stacked. The biggest drawback you are going to face is battery power and life vs weight. All totalled my blower unit (mounted on the sway bar directly in front of the engine) weighs in at around 100 lbs and the batteries almost a couple of hundred more. It doesn't matter for a vehicle on a roll, (you can rule the interstate); but for drag that's a drag and LiPOs are still too GD expensive if you ask me. The less the ah of the battery, the less time they last before they have to be replaced. Also you will want voltage indication of each (I use cheap $3.50 tiny digital ones off Ebay) so you can make sure you have max voltage before each hit because it make a dramatic difference in output. I activate with chargers on. Keep up the good work man because it CAN be done, it's just not for everybody. I'm thinking now of just running a mini-jet through an exhaust cutout to get it up to speed and then valving it over to a turbo turbine with an actualtor when I want the boost. That would probably make more for a lot less; but I'm into solar AC right now. I may have a test video or two on my TH-cam NT Keys channel; but for insurance reasons I've never quite let the cat out of the bag. Up until now it's been like my secret weapon cause I'm about 400 hp NA and I'm pretty sure it adds at least another 100 hp with the 8 42 lb per hr. high impedance Accel injectors I'm currently driving with an old MEGASQUIRT II with the 32 bit daughter board I built years ago. Fun stuff. LOL
I've actually seen your setup (on some F body forum, I think if memory serves). I posted a link in your other comment; but we've seen 340 running amps in that setup - here it is again in case you missed it: th-cam.com/video/AOL3Qyczt3Y/w-d-xo.html . My Whipple drew 70 hp off the crank and pushed the car into the 9's on pump gas. You really should join our forum, I'm sure there would be a lot of good mutual info exchanged: www.electrifiedboost.com. Lipos aren't that expensive anymore and certainly cheaper than a bunch of lead acid batteries; plus they weigh a lot less.
Could this be used to push a 68mm turbo on a diesel truck?
Probably not a great choice for a diesel - they usually run too much boost. The technology to make high boost pressures is right around the corner. Or you could stack 3 of these in a serial (compound) fashion - that should give pretty high boost.
doing some rough math though 5/8" hole would flow about 75scfm@3psi, that's about 6.8lb/min, the 1" hole is about 14.5lb/min
Right now just trying to get this new unit stable/reliable enough to take to the dyno. Version 1 made 650hp and did this at the track: th-cam.com/video/AOL3Qyczt3Y/w-d-xo.html
Your poor choices make great video. Enjoyed watching it!
Lol. You should see some of my other poor choices in life... they make these poor choices seem like gnats.
Hi , first you must try with at last 12s , go to motor wizard again ( do not modify the amperage ..... / other parameters ) , you will be surprised ! This way you will spin the motor 4 time faster and it will can draw the amperage that is destined for . Second you can get ride off the servo tester and connect a potentiometer directly to the adc port of the vesc ;) , in foc mode and current setting your " throttle " will affect the power ..... for your application i think you should use speed instead of current so 50% throttle will be 50% off max rpm - hope it make sense ... Let me know if you have problems in running your setup ;))
Thanks. The next test will be running off the big LTO cells that are already in the car. So we'll be feeding it about 60 volts. We've already done some drag testing with this exact motor but a slightly different impeller wheel that saw about 28,000 RPM and made about 650 horsepower. For now I'm just going to continue to use the servo tester because that's the port that we have developed Arduino code for to drive. But the current versus speed setting is something I didn't know and is immensely helpful. Thanks!
@@AlexLTDLX Glad to know that i can help .. What ecu are you running ? ( you could use the canbus , maybe yo can make a map in ecu for " boost control " .
Mega squirt MS3x
I was very surprised, because i just intérêt to electric turbo so i found it this vidéo, but this man's voice id really simillar voice to actor "TOM HANKS"..!!!☺️ person agree??
Lol. I get Tom Hanks from time to time, but I get Tony Stark (Iron Man) more often. I don't know why youtube pushes this video so hard - last week we dyno tested the bigger version of this thing on the car - I think it's a WAY more interesting video - if you haven't seen it, check it out here: th-cam.com/video/PjOJU02FIGw/w-d-xo.html
add volts ... lower your amps .. 750KV can do 10s @3.7 NRPC or 12S 3.2 NRPC.. 750KV is a little high to run 12S @3.7NPPC due to a full charge rate of 4.2V per-cell . You can also change the timing of your 3P 750KV motor but again heat will come into play.
You can look into KDE motors ... They are great guys over there ... they will make you anything you want ! I had them make me a 380KV 3P to run 14S LiPo 3.7 NRPC cells with a YGE motor controller. At the time YGE was the only company making anything that could do 300amps @ 14s-3.7 NRPC ... this was 4 years ago . Now there are ESC's out there to run 14S LiPo/LiIon
We also found that we needed to add to the belt drive system... We were KILLING GT3 belts after 5 to 10 mins. This was solved by doing a two stage pully system with 1 inch wide GT3 belts. This also allowed us to be able to fine tune our ratio to the final drive shaft.
Next problem was motor bearings .... GOOD BOCA bearings are a must ! due to the belt design ...Ceramic Bearings Only again KDE helped us built a bullet proof motor with no run-out. Make sure your running Ceramic bearing on all the stages of the pully main shafts. Add a retainer collars with set screws on all shafts.
Even though we were doing HI-Power 700class Helicopter rotors with our setup. I think some of what we found out would help you !
Can't go higher in voltage (watch the high power tests at 60 volts). When I tried at 70+ volts, I had issues with ESCs blowing up. 67 volts, dropping down to 50-52 volts under load was the best we've done so far. But that made 650hp with version 1.
got any part numbers for that belt and pully on the motor you used?
The belt is a Gates T5-280-25 Synchro-Power Polyurethane Belt; but any T5 belt from maybe 260-280mm long would work. I don't have a part number for the pulley handy, but I got it from McMaster-Carr - it's a T5 pulley, 25mm wide. But the center bore was seriously off. I had to bore it out, plug it and re-drill/ream it on my lathe.
@@AlexLTDLX thank you
Sorry to burst your bubble but BorgWarner already use this in a production cars. (Namely Audi 4.0TDI and Mercedes 400d) Its better than anything you can come up with at home and can be had for good ammount from wrecks. It makes real boost, something around 1Bar and uses 7kW at 48V. That V8 TDI makes 1000Nm at 1000Rev/min with it. ;)
We've made 650hp with the first version - the Audi unit is a toy compared to this (this one is 14kW; and there's a 40kW unit coming). Watch our first drag test: th-cam.com/video/AOL3Qyczt3Y/w-d-xo.html And as far as "making real boost" - sure, put one of these on the anemic Audi, and you'll make enough boost to blow the Audi engine. Put the Audi unit on my car, and it'll be a massive restriction. It not only wouldn't make any boost, it would make anti boost.
@@AlexLTDLX Sure it would restrict, becuase its used to kick things off and then exhaust driven turbochargers takes over. That way you have virtualy zero lag as on mechanical compressor but at the same time eficiency of exhaust turbochargers. Makes more sense than this battery nitro.
Given the power of new Brushless motors, thier RPMs and battery power currently and available in the future there isn't a doubt I. My mind electric turbos will soon be a real possibility. Making an electrical system that can handle the power loads without melting down and then charge fairly fast from an alternator will be the challenge.
I 100% agree.
Hi , the Amazon page is down .
Is there an alternative site to buy the turbo?
Sorry for the delayed reply - if they're not available through amazon, try speedmaster directly: www.speedmaster79.com/P-2-Centrifugal-Supercharger-Without-Gearbox
@@AlexLTDLX would you be willing to sell a finished electrical turbo/ supercharger with low boost ?
What's the best way to directly contact you ?
Sorry but can you post the link for the supercharger as im haveing a hard time finding it ,By the way nice work
You can get it straight from speedmaster: www.speedmaster79.com/P-2-Centrifugal-Supercharger-Without-Gearbox
@@AlexLTDLX thanks for the link
Whats lubricating the turbo bearings?
They're sealed (like the motor bearings). Considering the minimal load on them, and the short runtimes, I'm not worried about their lifespan. In the converted Vortech I run Isoflex NBU-15 grease. Expensive as hell, but should only required re-lubing every year or two; and one 50 ml tube is a lifetime supply (better be for what it costs).
Would be great to see a test with a decent air filter fitted so we have a reference for a street application.
Really enjoying working my way through this series. Thanks for sharing your findings.
I think electric turbos will be unbeatable in the performance industry. Once they are perfected no longer will we ever need nitrous or superchargers
Gonna need 16s to make at least 10-12psi
Try you some cnhl 9500mah 90c 6s lipos on series 12s to start
Already did that: th-cam.com/video/AOL3Qyczt3Y/w-d-xo.html 16s made 6 PSI tapering down to four. But one hell of an improvement in performance in the quarter mile and 0 to 60. This is simply a cheaper easier to make unit that should have similar performance. The big bastard is coming down the pike though. That should be good for close to 850 horsepower.
Correct me if I am wrong, but a turbo is powered by the exhaust gas's so drive it by any type of power gas, diesel or electric it becomes a Supercharger not a Turbo so any data gained is irrelevant as heat has a big play in the power produced.
Watch this: th-cam.com/video/QheFyxAWT88/w-d-xo.html
Have you any data from testing a sensored motor with boost/ turbo timing ?
I don't have a sensored motor yet. A sensored 53hp LMT motor and MGM ESC is supposed to be arriving in a couple of days. That's going on what I will dub the, "sledgehammer" - we'll see how close we can get to 1,000 hp with that thing (and obviously either the first version on this blower or a bigger one yet).
@@AlexLTDLX it's the way forward dude ,excited to see your results ,more rpms!!!
May I ask what you're putting that on
Here's the bigger brother of this thing in action at the race track: th-cam.com/video/RT0M88xHzNQ/w-d-xo.html
Willing to see a axial flux design of this.
I've looked into exactly this - it would be awesome to have the magnets on the actual impeller. Unfortunately, materials science and physics work against us (for now) - you can't get enough RPM without the thing flying apart - or at least the magnets ripping themselves out.
Tp motors would be proud 😂
Yeah, it's taken quite the beating in all our testing - 4 fried ESCs, some cogging issues, etc. And then it also did this on the drag strip: th-cam.com/video/AOL3Qyczt3Y/w-d-xo.html
Where did you get that motor?
amzn.to/43x5eZf
I wonder how this would work on my lsa supercharger????
You'd need something with more torque/less rpm. Something like a large outrunner. Though a positive displeacement blower is less efficient particularly in regards to drive power because of the rotor mass (I've built a number of positive displacement setups using Eatons and Whipples - the last Whipple setup ran 9.80s at 140 mph (on pump gas)). You can check out some of my other videos. We've even already drag tested a direct drive version that was very similar (in fact, used this exact same motor), and the results were rather eye-opening: th-cam.com/video/AOL3Qyczt3Y/w-d-xo.html
Noob question. Learning myself on forced induction. Just wondering.....why is it called a electric turbo when its essentially still a belt driven supercharger?
That's a good question. And reason is simple (you're right, btw) - it's because 10x more people search for electric turbo over electric supercharger.
Alex: I’m in the garage working…
Wife: Quit playing your snorkis!!
In my case that would be ex-wife. I've been raising my daughter by myself since she was five. She just turned 17. That's why I look the way I do.
@@AlexLTDLX Sorry to bring that up. If she goes to school for Mechanical Engineering…. She’ll have a damn good teacher!
Grab a SurRon Light Bee X electric dirt bike battery. Seems like a good fit.
No where near enough current. The LTO cells I'm using can output 10 times what that battery you suggest can - continuous (900 amps). They can deliver peak bursts in the upper thousands of amps. There's a reason they're so overkill... that'll be coming soon.
@@AlexLTDLX Subscribed. Maybe I should put that VESC controller on my SurRon. Looks super nice.
Can't you run a 6 inch pulley on the electric motor like crank pulley size
You could, but you'd need a physically much bigger and heavier motor - because you'd need less rpm but more torque. This is a good balance of size, weight and power. I've got another motor for this in the wings with sensors and fewer poles - which should fix the issues. In the meantime, I've decided to iinstall the bigger unit - which we've already tested on the car. If you haven't seen it, check it out: th-cam.com/video/7cCSbogg-AI/w-d-xo.html
I was looking at it a few years ago , 12v high torque motors. Attach a big pulley then you only need it to run at engine rpm 6500rpm etc .