These turbo-burns are fun to watch, and I'd love to see it taken to the next level of backyard engineering. For example, partially submerge the tank or weld on some tubes to the tank and pump water through. Use the heated water to rapidly heat a swimming pool. Or use the exhaust gasses to fill a hot air balloon. Or go more of a technical route and do some analysis on the exhaust gas composition. Or build a mechanical PID closed loop system using a BOV / wastegate, and throttle body to get the system to maintain a steady boost that you can select. Or put it on wheels, add basic steering with an RC car servo and get the thing driving under its own power. Or add an oil cooler and pipe the intake to draw air through the cooler so that the system is able to maintain better oil temps Or... you know, the grand finale, add a 100 shot of Nitrous
Yeah technical side is fine and dandy, but its in the end just waste of everything. It needs practical use other than just burn wood witch is kinda pointless and specially annoying for North Europe, ones who didnt prep with enough firewood for this winter. I'm all good on that front but still bit annoyed on waste. Pool heater would be mint solution and solve some of the heat issues while at it, just need practical design that can be easily lifted in and out and maybe use some of the power to move water pump so water mixes? Hell i might even build one.
Throttle should be setup to dump boost to the open air, not restrict that going to burner. Instead of hammering the thing with excessive backpressure, you drop the overall system pressure feedback to the burn chamber. Make a Y or T junction somewhere on the main boost line from the turbo, and stick the throttle on a branch from that to vent. This is because you're not able to control fuel in this setup, so instead you control the fresh air being introduced. If it's done right, it should be able to do some pretty smooth throttle control. Also that compressed air being vented will be rather hot too, so direct it accordingly. Also if you're clever, design internal burners to use the pressurized boost air. The flame front will form from the fresh air coming into the atmosphere of heated flammable gas. If you ask somebody who works on stuff like coal fired powerplant burners, they may be able to explain it better. Still room to optimize it if you want to. Or just ignore random internet person suggestions, yet the advice is out there.
simply needs an blow off valve when closing the throttlebody... venting to athmosphere would overspool the turbo... no good idea! what i would also add, is an wastegate to control the pressure under full throttle and protecting the turbine from wood-debris is also a good idea.
You're talking about a wastegate. They are trying to regulate the boost with the throttle and turbo intake choke. But they need to bypass some exhaust pressure to keep the poost pressure down.
That’s wild. At 30psi it is like a supercharged forge. Get some EGT gauge happening for the turbo and inside the furnace. Be cool to know how hot the fire gets.
Watching the guys run for cover reminded me of the Ford Dorset engines. I started my 40 years at Ford UK Product Development at Dunton in Environmental Test where we did cold start tests in four big cold rooms that would go down to -40° (-40° is the crossover point for fahrenheit and centigrade). Between tests the engines, which were on pallets so we could eight in each cold room, were run up for at least an hour to evaporate any fuel that had got into the oil while cranking. The oil was changed between every test as well. The Dorset engines could get so hot that they would start to run on oil vapour that was piped to the inlet manifold from the engine breather. With nothing to control engine speed they would run away and eventually explode! We had one brave lad who would run in and pull off the breather pipe, but most of us ran for cover. The runup room was lined with sound proofing and I can still see bits of crankcase embedded in the wall, and an almighty mess that we had to clean up. This was in the mid 70s so we didn't all have phones to record these events, and having a camera onsite was a sackable offence anyway.
That tiny bit of extra air making an extra 25+psi of boost is a great example of how turbos cars drive too, once you get the turbo rolling you can be giving very little throttle and still make a lot of power.
You need to control drive pressure. Venting the vessel's internal pressure before the turbo exhaust. Choking the air charge side will destroy the turbo oil seals rapidly. You can gain more control by fabing up a spring-loaded vent cap on the charge pipe. Set the spring tension to be fully open at 1.5bar. Allowing the charge air to vent to the atmosphere at a regulated pressure. This will stop it from running away. If you turned it into a boiler with steady water flow circulating through it, you'll have stable temps and a pile of steam that could used to warm a house, a pool/tub or power a steam turbine genset.
There is definitely power that can be tapped off the turbine/turbo blade and such a motor/gen would also service as the starter motor, then after the fact you take all the waste heat and make it useful like you said. This is a very flexible design and would be considered combined cycle generation. The other problem is these videos never provide any decent oil cooling for the turbo, you need a good heat exchanger and the airflow fan+pumps for it should be powered from its own generation with battery backup.
Feed some fresh air directly from the compressor to the exhaust turbine to cool things down, and it should survive a bit longer. (That's how they do it in jet engines.)
@@Camp_Dogs The hot side is probably at a higher pressure than the charge side. You could put a wastegate on the charge pipe feeding into the exhaust pipe after the turbo which will pretty much be an after burner.
@sourand jaded physics says increase in temp = increase in pressure, anything inside that tank is pressurized hence 30psi.. and it boost pressure from the exducer of the Compressor to the inducer of the inducer of the turbine.. by-passing the combustion chamber and directing pressurized air from the compressor to the exhaust pipe will be like an afterburner... Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 4G63 motors use this same theology for Antilag.
@@ryanjones9986 itd seem by intuition that the hot side runs at higher pressure than the cold side but as stated above they both run at the same pressure, every jet engine uses MOST of the air that comes out of the compressor to cool critical components like turbine blades and combustion liner and prevent those parts from melting/ burning away
I love seeing these builds, and have watched videos from Bobby McBoost, some guys out of portland, a few others. The one common thing I see is the boost becomes uncontrolled and the turbo blows up every time. It doesn't seem like limiting the intake air works. You need to limit the fuel. I'd like to see a build using wood pellets (Pellet stove) as the fuel source. By adjusting the speed of the feed auger you can increase or decrease the fuel intake rate.
Now this is what I was looking for about 11 years ago, I had a wood furnace with an "electric supercharger" that regulated the input air to control heat output. Interesting thing, but I'm more of a turbo guy, but nobody had done that kind of swap yet. Good job guys, Turbo wood stove is a win in my book lol
As more than a few have said, need to have most of the air bypassing the burn chamber and mixing with the burn chamber exhaust to limit the EGT. Put a Y pipe and 2 throttles on the compressor discharge, 1 throttle to the burn chamber the other to the bypass duct. Mechanically link them to be opposite each other, when one is open the other is shut. Like so your control rope can control the burn rate while also keeping the exhaust gas temp down. And having both throttles on the cold side will prevent that sudden failure, what got you was the hot gases damaging or jamming it. Also consider a much longer rope, or better some form of radio control that can shut this thing off from across the field. Its all fun and games till someone gets hurt. Even better if you can put a guillotine gate on the intake, run from a separate remote as a failsafe.
If that tank is getting hot to near or to red heat it will not take high pressure and might explode sending hot metal and burning wood everywhere . Might want to get some temperatures on different places on the tank, as you can see red hot metal well in the sun light . Steam boilers explode when the water gets to low and the crown sheet of the firebox goes dry and then gets red hot from the fire and the pressure blows the crown sheet in to the fire box and then all the hot water that lost some pressure turns to steam instantly and then everything explodes , the engineer and fireman almost never live . Water to steam isa 1800 to 1 ratio . Be careful and care on . I think you are on to something here , could have many uses with added ideas and controls . I see it burns with no smoke . You have to keep the wood from get to the turbo, maybe a screen or baffles or cyclone separater. Gave me a few ideas on how to clean burn wood for heat and power . Good luck with your experiment .
@@combomaster99 You seem to not understand what an EGR is. Exhaust Gas Recirculation, a metered amount of exhaust back into the intake to lower the combustion temperatures. What I described was a high pressure bypass, which Jet engines use. Most of the airflow bypasses the combustion chamber, but is mixed with the hot exhaust right before the power turbine. Like so the turbine temperatures are limited to prevent damage, and additional throttling is possible by changing the amount of bypassing. At maximum bypass the turbine should slow down.
I'd put a T on the boost side and have the throttle body act as a pressure relief instead of trying to block the boost. I think you will get better control over it by venting excess boost/air out of the system.
probably run hotter, harder, and longer. people have gotten internal combustion engines to run on coal dust, so I'd imagine it has plenty of energy to spool that turbo real good!
@@TS34675 you could definitely run a piston engine on coal gas with a modified carb, but I am talking about coal powder, way harder and all the examples I’ve seen video of ran awful but they did run.
Skip the coal and go injected butane or LPG - then the incoming fuel can be used to cool the housings, or, flash the fuel up to a gas and feed through a mixer for a really lean and hot burn, then just figure out what the heat can be used for - forge, power generator, steam train,... endless posibilities.
You need a better way to control it. A waste gate or dump valve something anything more then the throttle which was a decent idea but it unexpectedly failing like that didn't help. Was still funny though and great to see in day light. The only other thing you might consider getting is an oil cooler you almost had another type of fire there lol
@@Camp_Dogs would try wastegate on the air charge first, and dump into the post turbine piping, could help cool the exit air, and add more oxygen for the burn.
while I have no idea what EGTs are I bet it would be hot enough to melt basically anything. Especially with how these turbos are melting themselves as is.
@@Noman1000 as far as I know a wood fire can't get hot enough to really melt steel, but the steel will glow white hot and a fine mesh will get so soft that a piece of wood at high speed will probably fly straight through...
@@Henning_S. probably not hot enough to melt it but probably get it pretty soft. I think forced air kilns can get over 2000F on wood, this is probably similar if you can run it long and hard enough
@@Patrick-857 the theoretical max temperature of charcoal is 1300°C, steel melts around 1500°C... But you can melt cast iron with charcoal, it needs just 1100°C, and steel can get converted to cast iron if it is in a charcoal fire for several hours without oxygen. So in theory you could put a steel object in a charcoal fire and melt it, it just isn't steel anymore at the time it starts melting...
Throttling the compressor outlet without blow off valve puts it in surge and destroys bearings. I like the bypass air idea, compressor inlet emergency throttle, particle screen before turbine inlet, and waste gate. You should probably have some fail safe tank pressure relief before the tank pressure limit.
@@joashparker8271 tank limit will be affected by the heat but most compressor tanks are rated for 8-10bar (120-145PSI) so even in this case the tank should manage
Just in case someone hasn't already said this - Keep a water hose handy, if it runs away turn the hose on and blast the turbo inlet. I imagine it will hurt some things, but it might be better than a complete meltdown.
That could be hazardous, the water will enter and flash over to steam which in itself could lead to a pressure spike before overcoming the combustion process, probably need more water flow then a standard home garden hose too with how much air is flowing right there. I'd also be concerned about thermal shock, but I've never tried running the numbers. A fire extinguisher or engine bay extinguisher routed to the intake with a standard remote valve is probably safer.
You need a high pressure relief valve on the compressor side with a water injection tank pressurized by the compressor and regulated by the size of the water injection nozzle. This setup will help control and stabilize the operation. You might also need a larger turbocharger unit.
Grab an axial power turbine from a Detroit diesel dd15 engine and add it after the turbo. You could rig up an alternator and now you’ve got yourself a generator powered by literally anything that will burn 👍 Of course you could use the gear from the power turbine to power a myriad of other things, but electrical power seemed the most desirable. Now to figure out an easier way to start it 👍 I also liked the idea that several others mentioned of using a wastegate to help keep the impeller cooler. If you added an EGT gauge you’d be able to dial it in for maximum sustainable power output, which again would allow you to use it as a generator. Another good idea may be trying to add a screen coming up to the turbo to help keep chunks of wood going into the turbine. Cool project 👍 keep it up
One thing that seems obvious to me, but could also be extremely difficult to implement, is running the turbo cooling and oiling directly off of the turbo. The faster the turbo spins, the more cooling and oiling it will be given.
thats my dream project........put one of those DD15 turbo compounds behind a largish car engine, see how much power it makes. In WW2, they had a 1500hp V12 Allison engine, that was getting an additional 1000hp from its turbo compound.
@@MrMartinSchou as it speeds up it’s doing more work and therefore making more heat, and also getting more heat from the fire inside so that actually might work out. But if you had it making 12v power anyways from an alternator you could basically use an electric fan and radiator with a regular automotive thermostat to regulate cooling. I still think EGTs would be an issue long before oil & water temps would be an issue with a decent electric fan setup because this is essentially a jet engine that uses wood as fuel. That’s why I still think a blow off valve to bypass air for cooling/throttling would do wonders. That’s exactly how people smarter than me build turbines
put a plate in it with a bunch of 2.5x25.4mm slots in it, to stop the large wood chunks. put a propane line in the intake pipe, wrap a bunch of copper/steel pipe around it, get 20 foot of catalytic converters copper/steel pipe wound around those to and about a foot think of insulation with 3mm aluminum sheet cover... how much water can it boil up to 400psi off one BBQ tank? get about 1200ft of one inch tubing to run water thru... put an electric motor clutch on the turbo intake. burry the water tank in a 40 ton cement block... 400000 watt compact space heater 26000sqft at 8*C with it being -78*C outside... how long does one tank last?
Hi Guys , you're getting there, your P2 pressure is dependant on the TIT temperature going into the turbine stage , with our homemade DIY gas turbines using turbochargers we only need ~350-400 deg C for idling at 7 psi P2 , but ~550 C for higher powers , you need to be able to lower the temperature going into the turbine , the TIT , to prevent overspeed , so put your bypass/shutoff valve on a tee piece and feed the outflow from it to the duct going into the turbine scroll , once you hit your desired P2 slowly open the bypass to maintain it , the mix of hot gases and "cold" air will produce the require TIT , you will then be able to add a jet nozzle onto the turbine exhaust to produce thrust/noise, or add an afterburner for even more thrust and noise
definitely earned a subscriber. once you guys get the control portion of it dialed you should experiment with different fuels, maybe dump some oil in there... lol
@@Camp_Dogs You need some sort of cage inside to keep large pieces of wood from entering the turbo, probably something made of expanded steel.... And maybe move the oil can over toward the back end, so the intake turbo can suck in the fumes from the oil as a secondary fuel source(?)..... as for the string operated "throttle", it is really not doing anything with its restricted movement, maybe find one that's larger, that can actually restrict the flow, instead of just being there for its good looks..... And Temperature Gauges, lots of them, in key places..... Also, you might increase the height of the Exhaust tube from the tank, so it accommodates a "T" Valve, as a Dump gate, in order to have better control on the exhaust side also.....
I wonder if splitting the feed from the compressor into two streams would help. Have a small stream flow through the wood, stoking it. Then have the majority of the feed air flow just after the wood holding section in an attempt to completely incinerate the flying embers in order to prevent them reaching the turbine.
Would be cool to use diesel as the fuel source instead of wood. Certainly would save the turbo from being destroyed by debris. Also, perhaps a better coolant system is needed, that oil was about to flash for sure. Can't wait to see phase 3!
Wonder if you chould harness this energy through a gearbox and driveshaft or something. It europe during the war it was common to convert diesel cars to use wood-gas generators. Basiclly the same prinsiple.
It seems like this experiment is vastly scalable... I would like to see you guys experiment with some sort of high-octane liquid fuel being injected...
This is awesome! Any chance you could mount an actual wastegate before the turbo on the hot side? or would it just melt? hmmm wish I could play with fire too!
The most unintentionally funny thing about this video is the reappearance of the drill as the motor for the oil pump at the end. The very same drill that so effortlessly made the hole for the boost gage earlier in the video.
Episode 5 is out now and is by far the best one yet. Click the link here!! (Electronic wastegate and we build a flamethrower) th-cam.com/video/ujvFu_6DVG0/w-d-xo.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE
lose the throttle body and just put lifter valve springs on the plate the poundage can be set with the springs to blow off to keep it from turbo Kreep torque the springs down at the blow-off timing you want you can even put in a sight glass wood will burn purple, that's so cool or you could put a wastegate in line to do the same thing might even be a little safer. you can set it to run at any speed you want that way. it won't run away on you. keeps it from being a b*mb instead of a back-yard toy. landscape anchors wouldn't hurt.
You do realise that if you were to blow the escaping gases from the turbo and push them through a Turbine Generator you would be creating FREE ENERGY.. Well except whatever the cost of the fuel in the burn barrel is.
Build a fresh air cut off like the manual plate your using with a pull cable and spring to return to off. And yes bigger gauge. Your almost there!!!!!!
BTW WD40 is the worst lube for drilling/tapping. Get some real tapping fluid and you'll thank me. (Your drill bits will also thank me.) Oh yea, metal cable doesn't burn. String does. Come on guys... you gotta think a little a head.
I've used blue dawn dish soap for years in stainless and aluminum with better results than traditional cutting oils. Old timer tradesman shared that with me.
@@Camp_Dogs actually wd40 is one of the best drilling lubes you can use because it's multi purpose not only does it keep water and moisture off your work it prevents friction and seizing of the bit into the metal..... Don't listen to that other dude he obviously has no clue what he's talking about
I saw one online a guy made years ago and he put valve springs on the lid bolts in between the head and the plate so it would lift and vent if over pressurized. You could calculate the total force on the plate with the surface area of the plate and put the appropriate number of springs as they have a load rating
This is actually such a cool idea. It would me amazing to see this thing actually do some kind of work. It makes me think of either a ram jet or a turbo prop airplane in the way it functions. Except that it runs on wood! Very cool
I just guess, would you install a throttle body in the turbo intake just for regulate the turbo max rpm and so internal pressure and install some ribs in the "burning tank" just to improve security? great video!
It's awesome, but I'd love to mod it to use some things that my dad's gas producer in the 1980s had... (granted, that was a lot bigger than this drum!) Stand the burning chamber vertically. Have 6 or more horizontal air inlets around the outside of the burner near half way up, equally spaced, aimed in on an angle (rather than aiming at the middle of the drum) to create a spinning vortex, so the air from one supplies the wood in front of the next one so there are no dead patches not getting blasted with oxygen. Have a (fire brick lined?) throat leading down to a grate and take the gas out UNDER the grate. Wood falls down from the top to burn, but the fire has to burn upside down and suck through the embers to get out. This way all the tar and crap gets burnt before leaving - giving much more complete combustion i.e. more of the energy is extracted from your wood. Then bubble the gas through water (like a water bong) to stop ash sucking through. Then feed it through a gravity water trap to take the water out (long inlet pipe down to near the bottom of a drum, outlet taken from the top like an old-fashioned car glass fuel sediment bowl trap does) so you have washed, cooled and dried the gas. The cleaner exhaust means no tar or ash sucking into your turbo. As you've found, you don't want the heat cooking your turbo, you just need gas pressure. The cooler air reaching the turbo would be denser for driving it than hot air. The cleaner, cooler turbo would produce more energy and should survive a lot longer! And yeah, you do need a dump valve for emergency cut-off. Don't rely on running over and blocking the air inlet when it's spinning up over 250K revs! The larger diameter and length of the washer and drier stage drums is (e.g. you could use old petrol drums) the lower the pressure within them is compared to the pressure coming and going via the pipe, so the less likely you are to suck water and crap through them. Basic diagram here: postimg.cc/3yJ11DgN
Maybe just a smaller model. If you put a waste gate to control the boost. And keep it at 15psi. Then get a way to keep the turbo cool for long periods of time. You’d have yourself a pretty decent diy generator to go off grid. Even create a way for a heat excanger
Didn’t read all the other comments, but a fine mist of water into the tank exhaust gas pipe will flash to steam and increase mass flow into the turbo while reducing temps. Just have to time it right, Might even be able to throttle with it some.
I really do think you should add a charge air bypass to the exhaust shroud, so when it shoots charcoal into the turbine, there’s enough oxygen to make a burst of flame
Love how it’s actually burning clean. You need to fit the biggest wastegate you can find onto the exhaust housing and try and control the boost a little.
Episode 6 is now out, we put it on the roof of a car and drove around! Click the link here and check it out!
th-cam.com/video/vC_aZTb70u0/w-d-xo.html
so you strapped a pressure bomb on your car and drove near a bunch of PEOPLE.
Cannot wait to watch that hahahah
The best part about making something dangerous is when everyone starts running away laughing nervously 😂
The scariest part is when nothing happens, and you have to build the nerve to walk back over to it and try to shut it off.
@@69-Botbit like wondering if the fuse went out on a stick of dynamite & if you should check it!
@@69-Bot Nothing happens and then you end up makeing something more dangerous or pushing it further
Hahahahahah!
This be a good idea to try to create a type of Lance for a scrap yard.
These turbo-burns are fun to watch, and I'd love to see it taken to the next level of backyard engineering.
For example, partially submerge the tank or weld on some tubes to the tank and pump water through. Use the heated water to rapidly heat a swimming pool.
Or use the exhaust gasses to fill a hot air balloon.
Or go more of a technical route and do some analysis on the exhaust gas composition.
Or build a mechanical PID closed loop system using a BOV / wastegate, and throttle body to get the system to maintain a steady boost that you can select.
Or put it on wheels, add basic steering with an RC car servo and get the thing driving under its own power.
Or add an oil cooler and pipe the intake to draw air through the cooler so that the system is able to maintain better oil temps
Or... you know, the grand finale, add a 100 shot of Nitrous
Very cool ideas sir, you have come to the right place!! Welcome to the channel!
Oil cooler is an excellent idea.
Yeah technical side is fine and dandy, but its in the end just waste of everything. It needs practical use other than just burn wood witch is kinda pointless and specially annoying for North Europe, ones who didnt prep with enough firewood for this winter. I'm all good on that front but still bit annoyed on waste. Pool heater would be mint solution and solve some of the heat issues while at it, just need practical design that can be easily lifted in and out and maybe use some of the power to move water pump so water mixes? Hell i might even build one.
Yea mate just whip up PID control system on the raggedy ol turbo barrel
Or just use the pressure / rotation of the Turbo to generate electricity?
Their tool safety is incredible. Those safety flip-flops are the bomb!
oshit regulated.
Nothing says safety like drilling and welding in flip flops
They're steel toed safety sandals. Special see-through aluminium.
I don't think the flip-flops where the actual bomb.
And no 🗜️ in the whole garage
"We need a bigger boost gauge." Is 100% the attitude we all need! Brilliant!
Like the classic rock musicians,,"We need more cowbell"
Throttle should be setup to dump boost to the open air, not restrict that going to burner. Instead of hammering the thing with excessive backpressure, you drop the overall system pressure feedback to the burn chamber. Make a Y or T junction somewhere on the main boost line from the turbo, and stick the throttle on a branch from that to vent. This is because you're not able to control fuel in this setup, so instead you control the fresh air being introduced. If it's done right, it should be able to do some pretty smooth throttle control. Also that compressed air being vented will be rather hot too, so direct it accordingly.
Also if you're clever, design internal burners to use the pressurized boost air. The flame front will form from the fresh air coming into the atmosphere of heated flammable gas. If you ask somebody who works on stuff like coal fired powerplant burners, they may be able to explain it better.
Still room to optimize it if you want to. Or just ignore random internet person suggestions, yet the advice is out there.
I haven't noticed that many signs of cleverness here...
@@user-yg5hk1yb3n right.
simply needs an blow off valve when closing the throttlebody...
venting to athmosphere would overspool the turbo... no good idea!
what i would also add, is an wastegate to control the pressure under full throttle
and protecting the turbine from wood-debris is also a good idea.
Pretty handy. I’d like to build some sort of small power plant for off grid living
You're talking about a wastegate. They are trying to regulate the boost with the throttle and turbo intake choke. But they need to bypass some exhaust pressure to keep the poost pressure down.
Love that the main takeaway from this was "we need a bigger boost gauge"
that HAD to have been like 50psi minimum. that ol' 30 max boost gauge is for children.
It has a lot of turbo log...I mean turbo lag
That’s wild. At 30psi it is like a supercharged forge. Get some EGT gauge happening for the turbo and inside the furnace. Be cool to know how hot the fire gets.
Hah, right? It'd be fun to see that used as a kind of supercharged smelter
Great pfp
If you fire it with coal it will easily melt itself.
@@TimeFadesMemoryLasts Oh God!
Now to strap it on a really safe truck
Watching the guys run for cover reminded me of the Ford Dorset engines. I started my 40 years at Ford UK Product Development at Dunton in Environmental Test where we did cold start tests in four big cold rooms that would go down to -40° (-40° is the crossover point for fahrenheit and centigrade). Between tests the engines, which were on pallets so we could eight in each cold room, were run up for at least an hour to evaporate any fuel that had got into the oil while cranking. The oil was changed between every test as well. The Dorset engines could get so hot that they would start to run on oil vapour that was piped to the inlet manifold from the engine breather. With nothing to control engine speed they would run away and eventually explode! We had one brave lad who would run in and pull off the breather pipe, but most of us ran for cover. The runup room was lined with sound proofing and I can still see bits of crankcase embedded in the wall, and an almighty mess that we had to clean up. This was in the mid 70s so we didn't all have phones to record these events, and having a camera onsite was a sackable offence anyway.
That tiny bit of extra air making an extra 25+psi of boost is a great example of how turbos cars drive too, once you get the turbo rolling you can be giving very little throttle and still make a lot of power.
You need to control drive pressure. Venting the vessel's internal pressure before the turbo exhaust. Choking the air charge side will destroy the turbo oil seals rapidly. You can gain more control by fabing up a spring-loaded vent cap on the charge pipe. Set the spring tension to be fully open at 1.5bar. Allowing the charge air to vent to the atmosphere at a regulated pressure. This will stop it from running away. If you turned it into a boiler with steady water flow circulating through it, you'll have stable temps and a pile of steam that could used to warm a house, a pool/tub or power a steam turbine genset.
There is definitely power that can be tapped off the turbine/turbo blade and such a motor/gen would also service as the starter motor, then after the fact you take all the waste heat and make it useful like you said. This is a very flexible design and would be considered combined cycle generation. The other problem is these videos never provide any decent oil cooling for the turbo, you need a good heat exchanger and the airflow fan+pumps for it should be powered from its own generation with battery backup.
I have the exact same idea for a throttle... dang.
Safety Flipflops like a Boss!
aussie work boots
@@Camp_Dogs just like Steel Blue. 🤭
Flip flops are a Southern Hemisphere PPE staple.
With matching safety squints 👍🏽
“3 pounds, 5 pounds!….*needle passes 25 PSI of boost*” and the the scream lmao 🤣
🤣
This is why I love such footage... :D
Feed some fresh air directly from the compressor to the exhaust turbine to cool things down, and it should survive a bit longer. (That's how they do it in jet engines.)
That’s so cool thanks for the idea!
damn that's sick
@@Camp_Dogs The hot side is probably at a higher pressure than the charge side. You could put a wastegate on the charge pipe feeding into the exhaust pipe after the turbo which will pretty much be an after burner.
@sourand jaded physics says increase in temp = increase in pressure, anything inside that tank is pressurized hence 30psi.. and it boost pressure from the exducer of the Compressor to the inducer of the inducer of the turbine.. by-passing the combustion chamber and directing pressurized air from the compressor to the exhaust pipe will be like an afterburner... Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 4G63 motors use this same theology for Antilag.
@@ryanjones9986 itd seem by intuition that the hot side runs at higher pressure than the cold side but as stated above they both run at the same pressure, every jet engine uses MOST of the air that comes out of the compressor to cool critical components like turbine blades and combustion liner and prevent those parts from melting/ burning away
5:45 that scream of pure terror when it started a second lap of the gauge lmao
I love seeing these builds, and have watched videos from Bobby McBoost, some guys out of portland, a few others. The one common thing I see is the boost becomes uncontrolled and the turbo blows up every time. It doesn't seem like limiting the intake air works. You need to limit the fuel. I'd like to see a build using wood pellets (Pellet stove) as the fuel source. By adjusting the speed of the feed auger you can increase or decrease the fuel intake rate.
Now this is what I was looking for about 11 years ago, I had a wood furnace with an "electric supercharger" that regulated the input air to control heat output. Interesting thing, but I'm more of a turbo guy, but nobody had done that kind of swap yet. Good job guys, Turbo wood stove is a win in my book lol
Needs a waste gate and a manual boost controller. You also need a blow off valve to let the boost pressure out when the throttle plate is closed.
blow off is never needed..
@@exvils Unless your the fastest of the furious 🤣🤣
What throttle plate
Dont think theres vacuum to open the bov.
@@justinmckee6447 haha the plate they had up against the turbo inlet 😂😂😂
The level of safety in this video is AMAZING!
As more than a few have said, need to have most of the air bypassing the burn chamber and mixing with the burn chamber exhaust to limit the EGT. Put a Y pipe and 2 throttles on the compressor discharge, 1 throttle to the burn chamber the other to the bypass duct. Mechanically link them to be opposite each other, when one is open the other is shut.
Like so your control rope can control the burn rate while also keeping the exhaust gas temp down. And having both throttles on the cold side will prevent that sudden failure, what got you was the hot gases damaging or jamming it.
Also consider a much longer rope, or better some form of radio control that can shut this thing off from across the field. Its all fun and games till someone gets hurt. Even better if you can put a guillotine gate on the intake, run from a separate remote as a failsafe.
If that tank is getting hot to near or to red heat it will not take high pressure and might explode sending hot metal and burning wood everywhere .
Might want to get some temperatures on different places on the tank, as you can see red hot metal well in the sun light .
Steam boilers explode when the water gets to low and the crown sheet of the firebox goes dry and then gets red hot from the fire and the pressure blows the crown sheet in to the fire box and then all the hot water that lost some pressure turns to steam instantly and then everything explodes , the engineer and fireman almost never live .
Water to steam isa 1800 to 1 ratio .
Be careful and care on .
I think you are on to something here , could have many uses with added ideas and controls .
I see it burns with no smoke .
You have to keep the wood from get to the turbo, maybe a screen or baffles or cyclone separater.
Gave me a few ideas on how to clean burn wood for heat and power .
Good luck with your experiment .
my man wants an egr on a tank of burning wood
@@combomaster99 You seem to not understand what an EGR is. Exhaust Gas Recirculation, a metered amount of exhaust back into the intake to lower the combustion temperatures.
What I described was a high pressure bypass, which Jet engines use. Most of the airflow bypasses the combustion chamber, but is mixed with the hot exhaust right before the power turbine. Like so the turbine temperatures are limited to prevent damage, and additional throttling is possible by changing the amount of bypassing. At maximum bypass the turbine should slow down.
I suggest use a thicker oil, like racing oil, and an oil cooler, just don’t forget to use an expansion chamber in case oil overheats
I'd put a T on the boost side and have the throttle body act as a pressure relief instead of trying to block the boost. I think you will get better control over it by venting excess boost/air out of the system.
Basically a waste gate and a throttle body would be the best
would overspool the turbo... not good.
Good to see you’re using all the safety equipment
Wonder what it would do if you put coal instead of wood? 😂 Great fun though as is!
probably run hotter, harder, and longer. people have gotten internal combustion engines to run on coal dust, so I'd imagine it has plenty of energy to spool that turbo real good!
Can't say I've ever seen a coal gas blow through carb lol but I am aware of the old school coal gas cars during the fuel shortages.
@@TS34675 you could definitely run a piston engine on coal gas with a modified carb, but I am talking about coal powder, way harder and all the examples I’ve seen video of ran awful but they did run.
Skip the coal and go injected butane or LPG - then the incoming fuel can be used to cool the housings, or, flash the fuel up to a gas and feed through a mixer for a really lean and hot burn, then just figure out what the heat can be used for - forge, power generator, steam train,... endless posibilities.
Reminds me of the Lippisch P13. A coal powered jet that was designed to physically ram into allied bombers to bring them down.
I love the tool use you guys left in, it makes it less discouraging for people who might want to do this at home!
the snapped holwsaw pilot bit. we've all been there 🤣 maybe not in jandals lol
Holy Geezus, I'm 2 min in and curling my toes. The Aussie safety equipment and protocols are AMAZING!!
You need a better way to control it. A waste gate or dump valve something anything more then the throttle which was a decent idea but it unexpectedly failing like that didn't help. Was still funny though and great to see in day light. The only other thing you might consider getting is an oil cooler you almost had another type of fire there lol
Great ideas brother we are already working on revision 3!
@@Camp_Dogs a wastegate or two should do it. Spring it for 1 bar and call it done
@@Camp_Dogs would try wastegate on the air charge first, and dump into the post turbine piping, could help cool the exit air, and add more oxygen for the burn.
Also, once it’s gated, you can add the oil cooler in front of the compressor inlet, active flow over through the cooler
@@Camp_Dogs One vote for VL style dose pipe please!
You should weld in a metal mesh before the exhaust side of the turbo to help preserve the turbo
while I have no idea what EGTs are I bet it would be hot enough to melt basically anything. Especially with how these turbos are melting themselves as is.
@@Noman1000 as far as I know a wood fire can't get hot enough to really melt steel, but the steel will glow white hot and a fine mesh will get so soft that a piece of wood at high speed will probably fly straight through...
@@Henning_S. probably not hot enough to melt it but probably get it pretty soft. I think forced air kilns can get over 2000F on wood, this is probably similar if you can run it long and hard enough
@@Henning_S. Nope, completely capable of melting steel when you feed it enough air.
@@Patrick-857 the theoretical max temperature of charcoal is 1300°C, steel melts around 1500°C...
But you can melt cast iron with charcoal, it needs just 1100°C, and steel can get converted to cast iron if it is in a charcoal fire for several hours without oxygen.
So in theory you could put a steel object in a charcoal fire and melt it, it just isn't steel anymore at the time it starts melting...
Throttling the compressor outlet without blow off valve puts it in surge and destroys bearings. I like the bypass air idea, compressor inlet emergency throttle, particle screen before turbine inlet, and waste gate. You should probably have some fail safe tank pressure relief before the tank pressure limit.
What even is the tank limit? It would be a lot lower than listed when the steel heats up and loses its strength
@@joashparker8271 tank limit will be affected by the heat but most compressor tanks are rated for 8-10bar (120-145PSI) so even in this case the tank should manage
You guys running around frantic laughing brings back so many sketchy memories 😆
Just in case someone hasn't already said this - Keep a water hose handy, if it runs away turn the hose on and blast the turbo inlet. I imagine it will hurt some things, but it might be better than a complete meltdown.
That could be hazardous, the water will enter and flash over to steam which in itself could lead to a pressure spike before overcoming the combustion process, probably need more water flow then a standard home garden hose too with how much air is flowing right there. I'd also be concerned about thermal shock, but I've never tried running the numbers. A fire extinguisher or engine bay extinguisher routed to the intake with a standard remote valve is probably safer.
And then there’s me wanting to see a destructive failure
You need a high pressure relief valve on the compressor side with a water injection tank pressurized by the compressor and regulated by the size of the water injection nozzle. This setup will help control and stabilize the operation. You might also need a larger turbocharger unit.
Was waiting to suggest water injection but you explain how to do it better than I would have.
Grab an axial power turbine from a Detroit diesel dd15 engine and add it after the turbo.
You could rig up an alternator and now you’ve got yourself a generator powered by literally anything that will burn 👍 Of course you could use the gear from the power turbine to power a myriad of other things, but electrical power seemed the most desirable.
Now to figure out an easier way to start it 👍
I also liked the idea that several others mentioned of using a wastegate to help keep the impeller cooler. If you added an EGT gauge you’d be able to dial it in for maximum sustainable power output, which again would allow you to use it as a generator.
Another good idea may be trying to add a screen coming up to the turbo to help keep chunks of wood going into the turbine.
Cool project 👍 keep it up
One thing that seems obvious to me, but could also be extremely difficult to implement, is running the turbo cooling and oiling directly off of the turbo. The faster the turbo spins, the more cooling and oiling it will be given.
thats my dream project........put one of those DD15 turbo compounds behind a largish car engine, see how much power it makes. In WW2, they had a 1500hp V12 Allison engine, that was getting an additional 1000hp from its turbo compound.
@@MrMartinSchou as it speeds up it’s doing more work and therefore making more heat, and also getting more heat from the fire inside so that actually might work out.
But if you had it making 12v power anyways from an alternator you could basically use an electric fan and radiator with a regular automotive thermostat to regulate cooling.
I still think EGTs would be an issue long before oil & water temps would be an issue with a decent electric fan setup because this is essentially a jet engine that uses wood as fuel. That’s why I still think a blow off valve to bypass air for cooling/throttling would do wonders. That’s exactly how people smarter than me build turbines
nice to see the security flip flops at work
Probably the best turbo experiment i’ve ever seen! Just incredible!
i have no idea whats happening besides a turbo doing its job but man is it insane
put a plate in it with a bunch of 2.5x25.4mm slots in it, to stop the large wood chunks. put a propane line in the intake pipe, wrap a bunch of copper/steel pipe around it, get 20 foot of catalytic converters copper/steel pipe wound around those to and about a foot think of insulation with 3mm aluminum sheet cover... how much water can it boil up to 400psi off one BBQ tank? get about 1200ft of one inch tubing to run water thru... put an electric motor clutch on the turbo intake. burry the water tank in a 40 ton cement block... 400000 watt compact space heater 26000sqft at 8*C with it being -78*C outside... how long does one tank last?
Diagram please
Solve for x
Love the safety flops! May wanna go Crocks if you feel that you may need crush protection. ;)
Loving the safety flip-flops, and "grip anything" vice there lol...
Thank you saved me a lot of time trying to browse videos for an actual working one
Hi Guys , you're getting there, your P2 pressure is dependant on the TIT temperature going into the turbine stage , with our homemade DIY gas turbines using turbochargers we only need ~350-400 deg C for idling at 7 psi P2 , but ~550 C for higher powers , you need to be able to lower the temperature going into the turbine , the TIT , to prevent overspeed , so put your bypass/shutoff valve on a tee piece and feed the outflow from it to the duct going into the turbine scroll , once you hit your desired P2 slowly open the bypass to maintain it , the mix of hot gases and "cold" air will produce the require TIT , you will then be able to add a jet nozzle onto the turbine exhaust to produce thrust/noise, or add an afterburner for even more thrust and noise
These are rooky numbers. When my dad sneezes, he produces at least 69+ psi of boost.
Nice
When i Sneezed, my family thought a lightning bolt struck the house.
Until his arse fails from over pressure.
the muscle car from cars 1 **sneezes**
When i sneeze at school the who school almost heard it was about 120 psi of boost
Absolutely smashing the algorythm boys !!! Fantastic video, already got me wondering about the next episode 💪🏽😎
One of the coolest and outside the box projects I've ever seen!🎉😂
Seems to have warmed up my living room just watching it, good job.
definitely earned a subscriber. once you guys get the control portion of it dialed you should experiment with different fuels, maybe dump some oil in there... lol
you have no idea whats coming lol
Awesome
@@Camp_Dogs turboing the turbo?
@@Camp_Dogs You need some sort of cage inside to keep large pieces of wood from entering the turbo, probably something made of expanded steel....
And maybe move the oil can over toward the back end, so the intake turbo can suck in the fumes from the oil as a secondary fuel source(?).....
as for the string operated "throttle", it is really not doing anything with its restricted movement, maybe find one that's larger, that can actually restrict the flow, instead of just being there for its good looks.....
And Temperature Gauges, lots of them, in key places.....
Also, you might increase the height of the Exhaust tube from the tank, so it accommodates a "T" Valve, as a Dump gate, in order to have better control on the exhaust side also.....
@@Camp_Dogs what is left inside the container after it is finished burning?
Does it leave a lot of residue??
I love these videos, it would be cool to see the system accomplish some sort of work.
Believe us, it’s coming 🤣
When air is flowing past the throttle blades its more difficult for the blade to close.
That's the funniest thing all week so far. You guys are ridiculous haha
The "thong foot vice" the most Aussie bloke thing ever...we all have done it... Great fun guys.
We just hit 10,000 subs! You idiots are no more responsible than us!!!
You could pin this comment imo
@@petermolnar8667 thanks I thought I did haha cheers
Where’s the pop off valve.???
Small price to pay for doing awesome stuff and making it look easy!)
I wonder if splitting the feed from the compressor into two streams would help.
Have a small stream flow through the wood, stoking it. Then have the majority of the feed air flow just after the wood holding section in an attempt to completely incinerate the flying embers in order to prevent them reaching the turbine.
Would be so cool to see this used as a water heater of some sort! This is such a fun project.
Would be cool to use diesel as the fuel source instead of wood.
Certainly would save the turbo from being destroyed by debris.
Also, perhaps a better coolant system is needed, that oil was about to flash for sure.
Can't wait to see phase 3!
Used motor oil works well as a fuel too, especially when you've got 5% petrol content
Well at that point you just made a jut engine. And not a wood powered jet engine
Let’s be honest that’s where we’re all headed. Lol. Turbines are where it’s at.
Love the plastic pull cord to shut the supper hot contraption down if it runs away.
Wonder if you chould harness this energy through a gearbox and driveshaft or something.
It europe during the war it was common to convert diesel cars to use wood-gas generators. Basiclly the same prinsiple.
It seems like this experiment is vastly scalable... I would like to see you guys experiment with some sort of high-octane liquid fuel being injected...
th-cam.com/video/EP4Hf63zR6w/w-d-xo.html
A big yes to this.
Octane rating wouldn't make any difference as there is no high compression to cause pre ignition detonation.
I like when it pegs out and they take off running
This is awesome! Any chance you could mount an actual wastegate before the turbo on the hot side? or would it just melt? hmmm wish I could play with fire too!
Hillarious regulate the pressures and install in a pickup. Could be the worlds fastest wood/coal powered motor
You should force the exhaust through a cyclone separator to limit ash and debris going through the hot side of the turbo.
“We need a bigger boost gauge” haha yess
Gasification is a great fuel source it was used alot between 29 and 49
perfect for that family camping trip
Omg! I love the ‘hands over the eyes’ safety glasses! And you guys must be pro, you are using the same crappy drill that I have!!!!
It's good to know that you work with the safety flipflops on!
Can you run it with sugar?
This is a super underrated comment
Needs a pyrometer... for science
The most unintentionally funny thing about this video is the reappearance of the drill as the motor for the oil pump at the end. The very same drill that so effortlessly made the hole for the boost gage earlier in the video.
Now THAT is a high quality turbo!
Episode 5 is out now and is by far the best one yet. Click the link here!! (Electronic wastegate and we build a flamethrower)
th-cam.com/video/ujvFu_6DVG0/w-d-xo.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE
lose the throttle body and just put lifter valve springs on the plate the poundage can be set with the springs to blow off to keep it from turbo Kreep torque the springs down at the blow-off timing you want you can even put in a sight glass wood will burn purple, that's so cool or you could put a wastegate in line to do the same thing might even be a little safer. you can set it to run at any speed you want that way. it won't run away on you. keeps it from being a b*mb instead of a back-yard toy. landscape anchors wouldn't hurt.
Junk😮
You do realise that if you were to blow the escaping gases from the turbo and push them through a Turbine Generator you would be creating FREE ENERGY.. Well except whatever the cost of the fuel in the burn barrel is.
@@F4Insight-uq6nt LOL!
Build a fresh air cut off like the manual plate your using with a pull cable and spring to return to off. And yes bigger gauge.
Your almost there!!!!!!
Great idea!!
Who taught you how to use a drill???? LMAO 😂🤣😂🤣
BTW WD40 is the worst lube for drilling/tapping. Get some real tapping fluid and you'll thank me. (Your drill bits will also thank me.) Oh yea, metal cable doesn't burn. String does. Come on guys... you gotta think a little a head.
we are learning brother
That’s what she said
I've used blue dawn dish soap for years in stainless and aluminum with better results than traditional cutting oils. Old timer tradesman shared that with me.
@@Camp_Dogs actually wd40 is one of the best drilling lubes you can use because it's multi purpose not only does it keep water and moisture off your work it prevents friction and seizing of the bit into the metal..... Don't listen to that other dude he obviously has no clue what he's talking about
@@Psikeomega I will give it a try. Thanks for the suggestion.
Now put some wheels on the thing and let the fun begin!
The hole bit breaking halfway through is painfully relatable
Wonder how much thrust it’s making. Would be cool to extract some useful work from it.
Never have i considered improving the efficiency of burning wood.... amazing
I saw one online a guy made years ago and he put valve springs on the lid bolts in between the head and the plate so it would lift and vent if over pressurized. You could calculate the total force on the plate with the surface area of the plate and put the appropriate number of springs as they have a load rating
Or maybe a blow off valve/waste gate
This is actually such a cool idea. It would me amazing to see this thing actually do some kind of work. It makes me think of either a ram jet or a turbo prop airplane in the way it functions. Except that it runs on wood! Very cool
That turbo is having an aneurysm lol insane boost but the turbo charger seems to love those hot shots, truly a hungry turbo right there 😂
I just guess, would you install a throttle body in the turbo intake just for regulate the turbo max rpm and so internal pressure and install some ribs in the "burning tank" just to improve security?
great video!
PSI!?!!?! At that point your making ✨JET THRUST✨
It's awesome, but I'd love to mod it to use some things that my dad's gas producer in the 1980s had... (granted, that was a lot bigger than this drum!)
Stand the burning chamber vertically. Have 6 or more horizontal air inlets around the outside of the burner near half way up, equally spaced, aimed in on an angle (rather than aiming at the middle of the drum) to create a spinning vortex, so the air from one supplies the wood in front of the next one so there are no dead patches not getting blasted with oxygen. Have a (fire brick lined?) throat leading down to a grate and take the gas out UNDER the grate. Wood falls down from the top to burn, but the fire has to burn upside down and suck through the embers to get out. This way all the tar and crap gets burnt before leaving - giving much more complete combustion i.e. more of the energy is extracted from your wood. Then bubble the gas through water (like a water bong) to stop ash sucking through. Then feed it through a gravity water trap to take the water out (long inlet pipe down to near the bottom of a drum, outlet taken from the top like an old-fashioned car glass fuel sediment bowl trap does) so you have washed, cooled and dried the gas. The cleaner exhaust means no tar or ash sucking into your turbo. As you've found, you don't want the heat cooking your turbo, you just need gas pressure. The cooler air reaching the turbo would be denser for driving it than hot air. The cleaner, cooler turbo would produce more energy and should survive a lot longer! And yeah, you do need a dump valve for emergency cut-off. Don't rely on running over and blocking the air inlet when it's spinning up over 250K revs! The larger diameter and length of the washer and drier stage drums is (e.g. you could use old petrol drums) the lower the pressure within them is compared to the pressure coming and going via the pipe, so the less likely you are to suck water and crap through them. Basic diagram here: postimg.cc/3yJ11DgN
WOW, gotta try this in the future. A refuelling system would be nice that swaps out waste, you got yourself an engine.
Maybe just a smaller model. If you put a waste gate to control the boost. And keep it at 15psi. Then get a way to keep the turbo cool for long periods of time. You’d have yourself a pretty decent diy generator to go off grid. Even create a way for a heat excanger
Absolutely hilarious when it started spitting wood 😂🤣❗️
Love those pro safety goggles when grinding🤣
Didn’t read all the other comments, but a fine mist of water into the tank exhaust gas pipe will flash to steam and increase mass flow into the turbo while reducing temps. Just have to time it right, Might even be able to throttle with it some.
I love watching the facial expressions..... looks like kids on Xmas morning!
I really do think you should add a charge air bypass to the exhaust shroud, so when it shoots charcoal into the turbine, there’s enough oxygen to make a burst of flame
This is how that portal in Interstellar was made.
Love how it’s actually burning clean. You need to fit the biggest wastegate you can find onto the exhaust housing and try and control the boost a little.
Watch the next video
Tip of the day:
If you see an Aussie running because "things are getting sketcho", try to keep up.
oh no man you make my day my time is going faster than before..
Good set up! Not sure if we can offer warranty on that air receiver anymore though 🤣🤣
I wonder if combination of the American Smugde Pot idea with this would provide more power at a constant temp for a longer period 🤔
Holy crap. I love everything about this.
Christ Berry, you guys are nuts!!! Love it!
Been a while Pete
You guys need a screen or grate to keep wood particles from going through the turbo. That would really help it survive... longer...
Insane! I really appreciate your oil pump! A Drill!