ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 มิ.ย. 2024
- One of the Electrified Boost (www.electrifiedboost.com) forum members has built a really cool twin motor electric supercharger! You can buy the motors here: amzn.to/3KXjYJ1 And the ESCs here: amzn.to/3QLYVNn The supercharger can be bought here: amzn.to/3P7W2VL Join the forum to build your own and find out more at www.electrifiedboost.com - the direct link to David's thread is here: www.electrifiedboost.com/thre...
- วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![พาแม่บินครั้งแรก..เกือบวูบ! ให้เกาหลีเยียวยาใจ I Korea Ep.1 [Seoul] x อุงเอิง](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/waL3__dEQBU/mqdefault.jpg)
DUDE! The algorithm deserves respect this morning. I've made comments on Cleetus and other people's videos who have messed with this stuff. There is something here, something nobody has uncovered. Someone is going to do something WILD with electric supercharging/turbocharging, and also compressed air. You might need to actually cast some new stuff, like a turbo that has a separate chamber to spool it. We could be using electricity or compressed air to build boost instantly, and overboost. EDIT: wow, and you all basically hit on all my points, I had no idea there was a community chasing this idea, time to go spread my ideas.
The possibility of pre-spooling any size of turbo and a reduction in net heat really makes this an interesting prospect... Thanks for pioneering this tech!
I like where things are going.. this is literally a long way from 2 years ago where everything was just a concept... good luck gents
Thank you;
Nice idea. May just have to steal my 8S motor setups from my Arrma RCs trucks lol.
Just stumbled upon this and I think you’re onto something with the whole no prep thing….ultimate control with power management. A 9 second car you can put down any surface is going to hurt some feelings
Jason (The guy who's been driving my car when we test these things) keeps trying to get me to run no prep with my car. I would if I wasn't building a house 1600 mi away. We will do some fun stuff with it though. If you haven't seen it: th-cam.com/video/RT0M88xHzNQ/w-d-xo.html I agree with your point.
I'm from NH lakes region. That's sweet project dude.
Castle creations makes a hell of a motor that's for sure.
Thanks for the little shout out! I appreciate it!
I will work on some interesting thing in the next couple weeks!
Maybe not solve the issues but improve on some things! Maybe I will find my issue hahha
Someone needs to get with Kevin Talbot. He's an RC youtuber and he's got tons of those high Hp RC type motors and speed controllers but also a lambo and a brand new Monster Jam truck. He's a certified gear head and would probably have connections that could help.
I would love to chat with him he is running 4 motors in his land speed record vehicle. I do need to figure a foolproof way of running multiple motors at the same time. And he should have the answer!
I've bin researching multiple motor rcs for 6 years. Just run a splitter at the signal input and run as many as u want. I've seen 4 from Kevin and many other speed run guys do this.
I just came to comment the same thing!
My uncle used to make custom drag racing snown machines and he would rig up a dremmel motor or a angle grinder to spool turbos. this is the first time I have seen anyone do somthing like he did
Would love to do something like this. Whether I bite the bullet and try a torqamp or so my own setup.
I would love to try this on a rotary. Don't need huge gain but about 5psi of boost would be good. Something down low to push it into high rpm faster.
250-300hp range would make the world of difference
I forget which model Porsche, but, Engineering Explained guy (Tom, I think?) said the only *street* turbo setup he loves like a supercharger is Porsche's new system, which uses a turbine-generator to convert exhaust energy into electricity and an electric compressor to create the boost. I don't know how efficient the system is or if it could be relied upon solely for electricity generation, but it seems "hybridize der ferk" out of an I/C is the way to go - all accessories electric, turbine-driven generator/alternator, etc. Electrical components are very efficient, as we all know
Good luck, David!
Thank you for the kind words!
These are the type of shenanigans I approve of!
A grudge race between the two of you would definitely attract a ton of eyes. It would probably do a lot for your channel and I would love to see it. Awesome seeing how far you've come! You've definitely got me wanting to put some of my really large motors and ESCs from my monster trucks into a project like this. Right up my alley!
Electric Turbo LTD vs Supercar certainly has a nice ring to it ;) that can't happen soon enough. Great interview, very cool to see an expanding community with a common goal.
The only thing needed is a bypass to not choke the engine of air when off boost.
Now we’re talkin, Alex!
Love watching this grow. Dual motor would work id think.
Man i didn't even realize ya'll were doing this. I was thinking about this for extra power when needed in my jeep cherokee with a 4.7l stroker engine. I'm an rc guy so it made perfect sense and just like him i saq the torq Amp on cleetus channel a long time ago. I'm happy to see this. I just need to recover financially from the current jeep build lol. My engine has 10.1to1 compression ratio so it shouldn't need a lot of boost
E-Blowers are the future.
Very cool. The ease of installation in kit form could be close to a custom stereo. That is going to make this into the most popular HP Mod in 20 years.
Would definitely use the torque brace to make a custom pipe /torque tube !
You will have to be careful they don't catch on fire 🔥 in the boot
That is absolutely insane 😂
I’d love to see one of these types of setups in a boat. Say a regular family bow rider with a 4.3 Chevy v6 and an electric turbo. What a sleeper it’d be!
Wow this is Next Level!! 🔥💯🙏🏾🎉
I’m mid engine swapping a Corvair using a Toyota hybrid drivetrain, and as a side effect I’ll have 200V+ on tap for an electric turbo. The problem will be getting a standalone ECU to play with the hybrid controller, it’s going to take a lot of CAN spoofing.
Yeah problem is that motor won't handle any boost. They like to shoot rods out without any boost never going to work
@@randalleldridge5667 we'll see, I'm not opposed to changing it up to lower the compression to allow for some boost. Though judging by how light it has come out I think I'll leave it NA and just make up any power I need on the electric side. With everything in it's almost lighter than a Miata without any weight reduction like skinning the trunk or lexan windows.
Ya'll need to build something out for the Ram eTorque setups. Native 48V power system (battery and charging), and a very decently powered alternator/electric motor already built in.
I'll have to look into that. These motors run on a max 50 volt system. Though I don't think (but I don't know for sure) that the Ram setup can output the necessary 350 amps for a single motor system (a twin motor like in this video would peak potentially around 700 amps).
Im back from being banned. Love this video, the community is growing
I almost expected to hear "hot for teacher" start playing over that Miata's idle. Wow! 1:01
When I first took that video I sent it to my cousin Dan and he said the same thing 😂
Can't wait for the grudge match between you two
Have you considered adding cooling fins to your plumbing from the back to the front to dissipate out the heat.?
This dude is doing basically what F1 is doing, using electrical motors to spin up their turbo in conjunction with exhaust gas so there is no lag.
Both of u guy need to get on Richard holdners nightly live feed
Couldn’t one mount the turbo(s) beneath or to the rear to prevent engine bay heat soak? I think Hellion makes a “sleeper” kit that moves the Whirly boys out of the way. To each his own, I watched Cleetus’ video on electric turbos, hence the reason I thought they would be fine on small engines (at best). I’ll have to catch up on advances in technology from then.
Oil less turbs are also a thing.
Yay another built miata in NC ... very clean build to and the ironic is I came from Raymond. N.H. myself .. that's wild .. peace and love bro keep it rad stay safe and build on.. and much respect for what you are building brotha
Thank you! You too man. I'm back in NH now but would love to move again. Take care!
@@davidreith8093 right on brotha , yea I still have family up there and I now have my own family (wife and 2 kids) and they are all from NC and I have shown my wife NH 1 time for a vacation but only had 3 days ... so now I want to take my whole family up there to meet my other family and see how beautiful New England is and for the kids to get to do stuff inthe snow cu, we're I live in NC (on the coast 20 min from the ocean) it has dusted snow I think 2 or 3 times since I moved here in 02 lol ... much love n respect brotha peace stay safe and have fun ... ps I definitely following ya build now brotha ... do ya have IG ?
Should use 8 gauge wire. It’ll stay cooler and give more rpm.
damn this is such an awesome build i need one of these for my 5.3L Miata 😂
Don’t stop at twin. Get 6 or 8 of them motors on there! Maybe little smaller motors with more KV
Awesome content. Trying to sign up on the electrifiedboost forum, but I'm not receiving the confirmation email. Is there someone I can reach out to over there?
Thanks - yeah, I'm having some issues with web guys... I'm working it out as fast as I can get them to work - please bear with me. I'll reply again when I'm sure it's working.
Yes!
Very interesting. I’m working on a 280zx and the exhaust and intake are on the same side so stuffing a turbo down there is very tight. Nissan did it but it gets so hot at the intake. This really make my mind flutter with ideas. I’m a machinist and so yeah let’s do it. My question is why not Increase the turbo size so you can drop the rpm?
That's a good question - there's a balance between available motors, rpm and affordable superchargers. This seems to be the sweet spot.
Yeah use an old semi turbo
1:40 don't forget about limited Real estate under the hood.
Only just found this but the listing for the supercharger is no longer available, is there any other items people have found to replace this?
Try getting is from Speedmaster directly - www.speedmaster79.com/P-2-Centrifugal-Supercharger-Without-Gearbox
I’m excited for more sledgehammer content this year. There’s gotta be a practical use for these in daily cars. Something that can reliably pump a few PSI in existing NA motors would be such a game changer I think. I’m curious if there is any chance stock alternators would be able to charge a small scale sledgehammer!
I'm sure that in-car charging is practical. The amount of time one would spend in boost is so much less than the amount of time one would have recharging the packs.
@@AlexLTDLX Exactly, and these newer cars with auto start-stop already are fitted with capable capacitors I believe so they seem very achievable/realistic for to me at least
Subscribed!!
Cleetus McFarland needs to check this out. He's tried electric boost before but bought junk. I think he would be interested
but he also tested the TorqAmp with success. Before there was also ARC Superchargers and Phantom
awesome
Alex, will this work on an off road truck application. On demand torque at the wheels. Where drag racing you're at 100 percent duty, off road would be 30 percent duty.
yes
@@AlexLTDLX Thanks, I will look for you guys on the form and if I can offer any assistance to further you or David's goals I'd like to help.
What are the kv ratings on the 2 castle creations motors. And what size hobbywing esc's are in there?
Castle 2028 800kv. And I'm using hobbywing Max4 esc's
Long time subscriber. Love the videos. Instead of removing the charge tube for NA and supercharged modes why not use an electric cutout valve to switch between na and supercharged mode. Open up for na and closed for boost mode.
I want to do this, it is just an issue with getting a small enough unit to fit in my engine bay.
So can adjust boost level at any range possible this way?(normally not possible with supercharger's
Yes
Dang you didn't even talk about the motors or esc's. Castle motor with Hobbywing max5 ESC? looks like your running it sensored??
Yes 2028 800kv sensored motors running @ 12s off of Max4 escs
Before you increase anything you have to reach the amount of air already going into the motor and then surpass that amount to see any gain.
Good Tech Thank You !
using creative cooling on a standard exhaust driven turbo is better idea than using mechanical electric turbo ie components, belts etc , as they will not be practical in cost, or lifespan . even if your doing something no ones done, the cost overruns what a standard turbo can do for cheaper
Two stage gear box?
Seems the Amazon link does not work...... 😞
I just want to mildly boost my stock Jeep 4.0L. I don't want to get into having to program and tune. I'm fine with putting in injectors that can flow enough to not run the engine too lean.
Can this technology help me achieve that goal?
More than likely, no. Extra air is extra air, and you need to add more fuel for that somehow. There are mechanical ways to do it, but it's still tuning, just not with the ecu.
@@ScootyPuff_Jr If it's a small enough amount of boost, the fuel injection/oxygen sensors should be able to compensate, shouldn't they? Especially if I put in high flow injectors and pump.
I'm just looking for advise and I appreciate the information. Can you point me to a link that can help me out a bit better? Is there any DIY software for tuning Chrysler ECMs? Thank you.
adding higher flow injectors requires tuning. At idle you would be super rich if running the stock fuel map that is for smaller injectors.
The only feasible way of doing what you're trying to achieve would be this: im assuming a jeep 4.0l has around 18lb/hr injectors. Grab some 30% higher flowing injectors, 24lb/hr? and run e85. It might not blow up immediately then with a small amount of boost, although probably wouldn't last long.
Also, i believe a 4.0l jeep needs a valve that closes during boost to the map sensor. Another words your map sensor can't and won't measure anything other than vacuum. Maybe there is a 2 bar map sensor out there that swaps into a 4.0l jeep, but then that would require programming to work correctly.
@@pd2340 I see. Well poo . . . . I was hoping it wouldn't be that involved.
Oh well, that settles it then. Time to retro-fit a Magnum 360 into the Ol' WJ.
Those arent just any brushless motor. Those are Sensored Brushless RC car motors. Now its cooler huh
He should try making a full digital turbocharger whith a turbine attached to a small generator. This could be combined with a bypass to fully circumvent back pressure due to it when maximum power is required
The og Thomas Knight had 3 motors on a eaton. I think to keep the motor rpm down you need a procharger that has a 2to1 or 4to1 step up. Basically a transmission. So 1 rpm if the electric motor is 4 rpm if the supercharger
What about prespooling a turbo?
This channel is fuckin awesome!
Thank you. I like your user name. lol.
4:27 running oil lines and pipes under the car isn't an option for me. Pot holes and road debris can ruin you if they rip an oil line.
This same unit cleetus used years ago?
No - those are limited to 200 hp. We've made as much as 800 hp: th-cam.com/video/RT0M88xHzNQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=nWwC6hxBNPvzczw8
guys tried outrunner motors?
No - we need the rpm. The more gearing up you have to do the bigger and heavier things get.
Could you rig up two DeWalt 24 V leaf blowers into the system 🏎️🔥
They would probably create a restriction. We're literally talking tens of thousands of watts when these things run.
I just left the comment but my Uncle used to make custom drag snow machines in Bc about 17-18 years ago and he would rig up dremmel motors to the turbos and it became very popular and kept secret in the community
Where do i get one
Should get with X-Brand and talk about High Amp alternators with him
Why can’t you use gearing for the high rpm?
You can, but everything starts to get bigger and heavier very quickly.
If he lives in Easley that is a small town!
I lived in Charlotte, NC and had it dyno tuned at Hawks in Easley. I now live in NH though. And even our cities are small 😂
A company named compatition turbos make turbos that take no oil or water lines.
Can you make rpm controlled electric turbo.... In which we can tune the rpm of turbo according to engine rpm ... Like (engine 1000rpm =turbo 2/3/4000rpm)is it possible?
Yes, it is. When I finish my move, I'll be experimenting with different universal controllers that will allow that.
I keep telling you all: go big or stay at home. My next one will be driven with a hybrid MG ststor.
I've been looking at electric motors on ebay and have noticed that 20hp electric RC motors exist. What is the reason that you chose 2 electric motors instead of buying one big electric motor?
Cost and rpm capability, mostly.
fly me out and i can weld the alum charge tube up for you.
Do compound turbo charging.
Use 3kw out runner sensored and gear up
Google Thomas Knight. He was doing this 25 years ago in Miami. Also built belt driven turbos.
IIRC, he was using starter motors, right? These new brushless motors are in a completely different league.
@@AlexLTDLX I was new to Miami in 2006, so by then he was transitioning away from the electric stuff. I worked in Kendall as a machinist and he'd stop in to our shop and have me machine turbo housings. Cool dude.
At this point, the technology for the etc is too accessible to anyone. It would be tough to make money and be a standout company with this type of product. Aren't the Chinese already making these?
@@Cookie-Dough-Dynamo plenty of people are making these, but the real question is how many of the ones available are not a money wasting gimmick? The biggest issue with electric turbos are the fools that are flogging them as some kind of magic bullet. Usually they are egotistical people who ignore physics and fudge the numbers to show that they work, completely ignoring the facts. Like making wild efficiency claims while completely ignoring the power source in the equation, but they are not interested in the truth because it is not convenient. Some of them do seem to produce limited results, but they are generally wrapped up in a good layer of BS.
Just swap the 6.2 in and you done😂
Maybe later. A bolt on 6.2 with a cam that is aggressive enough to make 500whp is close to 8k or more all in...this is 2,700 so far. I can always go larger displacement down the road too . The hard part of the swap is done.
Im still learning about batteries and whatnot, but how come an alternator cant be used as the power source for one of these setups? Do they not generate enough power? (I know this is a noob question go easy on me lol)
A big car alternator can provide about 2,800 watts. This thing will draw ten times that amount - 28,000 watts (I've had a single motor unit up to 14,000 watts).
@@AlexLTDLX thank you for your reply!
@@AlexLTDLX how long do you get on a single battery charge on your current setup? Like how many passes do you get before you need to swap batteries / recharge
A lot, is the best answer I can give you. I have yet to need to recharge the packs on any track or dyno day. On the street, the packs recharge when not in boost, so in reality, you'd never run out.
@@AlexLTDLX like rechargeable nitrous
What's the electric motor spinning at ?
They're capable of 50,000 rpm, but really you're likely to see a max of 35,000 rpm under load.
Can't you set up a pulley system , like run a pulley with the electric motor and belt drive it . Less rpm , higher boost
That's exactly what he's doing - the belt drive has a step-up ratio. Once it's on the car he can fine tune that ratio to find the sweet spot for his engine and available motor torque.
@@AlexLTDLX nice !
Wow I can't believe you're talking my language. Consider me subscribed thanks
Thanks and welcome
the rotor size rpm and torque characterise favors smaller motors in multi-motor offset counterforce gear configure sun gear to planet and in a case to deal with open tooth noise.YOU WANT TO HEAR THAT COMPRESSOR AT THOSE RPMS. A modern engine needs 25 to 35 hp to compress enough air to make significant horsetorques.
You want to hear compressor whine? Here's my car when it had the Whipple on it running 9s at the track on pump gas: th-cam.com/video/DwFndZa0SSU/w-d-xo.htmlsi=z8WAfSm4WVopwSyK It took closer to 70-80 hp to drive the blower. That's too much whine - it gets annoying after a while. Here's my electric supercharger running just as quick, with much less boost (much more efficient), and you can only hear it winding down: th-cam.com/video/RT0M88xHzNQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=0ZdGOIWMnBLk27f2 And even the electric supercharger was making 44hp at that point.
@@AlexLTDLX so true yep it takes that much
Large intercooler and the compression choke leaves
6:12 LBS/Minute?
why not dual stage the motors and run a higher voltage?
Because they're essentially 3 phase ac motors. Unless the motors are mechanically sync'd (it would have to very precise - every degree of timing affects performance), the ESC wouldn't know when to fire the phases. You'd end up with "juddering" and no rotation, more likely than not. It would be nice to find higher voltage ESCs that are commonly available, as that would reduce current draw, making voltage sag less of an issue.
@@AlexLTDLX I have not done any research on this so i could easily be wrong. I thought the Tesla motors are high voltage. Granted they are heavier, but weight in the back seems like it might help? a battery pack or 2, inverter and motor might be to heavy, but it would throw some air. the way that industrial motor and vfd are similar and give more versatility but would probably be to heavy when said and done, but this is "pioneering territory", no? I also mean to install in the trunk, no way you could fit all that in the front. to dual stage, just run a pot off the accelerator pedal to the controller?
The thing with boosting the intake pressure with a turbo or blower is that you're trying to add pressure to a vacuum system. The engine is already sucking at idle and it becomes worse with RPM. So to pressurize an already sucking intake system, you need some serious power to generate boost. There was a guy developing something similar in Australia, it took enormous amount of electric power to work. Something like the level of power a golf cart uses, it takes a lot of energy to function at higher RPM.
We've already made about 800 flywheel horsepower at the track: th-cam.com/video/RT0M88xHzNQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=XgvV71fQN0k_n_FS
For the record, it takes about 34,000 watts to do that - more than your average house.
There’s nothing wrong with dreaming.
I’d love an electric turbo/supercharger.
An electric boosted turbo would be interesting.
Or a turbo boosted electric turbo/supercharger.
I built an 88 blazer mud truck with a 5.7 tbi , I ran three car batteries to power a fan / turbo style set up , that pure redneck experience was a success,
That's engines not going to hold 500 without
Dude I thought u was building an esk8
Twins was always my recommendation. Easier for two run of the mill weak men to lift 300lbs. Common sense.
I know it's easier to pontificate than fabricate but David if 2 is better .... why not 8???
Eventually you just end up pushing the compressor into choke. I2 motors is sort of a sweet spot. But nothing stops someone from running 2, 3 or even 4 of these units provided you have the room (and your engine and driveline can handle 2,000 hp).
Generally a little thing called a point of diminishing returns. It's like those who think why not just put in more electric motors into an EV. Well because you need to add more controllers and more batteries to support those motors, now you need more hp to move the increased mass, so you add more motors to produce more power, and round and round you go. The answer lays in making the motors more efficient. Belts / gears all consume power so the more you have the greater the parasitic losses.
Miata LOLOL!
Oh, shit. I'm from Nashua.
Using an esc is extra fail points.
Why not just use a 12volt series wound DC motor with a switch that turns it on when you floor the gas? The rest of the time you can just stay in limp mode.
Or maybe just electric motors to turn the tires directly and skip all of the parasitic loss of an combustion engine and transmission.
Those are nice things to play with but just like a normal supercharger which is the best power maker they are very limited as to what boost most guy's efforts can make, not to mention seeing 6PSI at 30kW which means except of expensive and finely crafted parts this needs to be made of you also need batteries to run it unless you hook a 200 pound alternator on your engine bay.
When a turbocharger finally starts compressing it's no joke, the supercharger is a heat pump with permanent parasitic loss but makes boosted engines work like NA if you don't go after making 3 bars of boost, the electric turbo is ?????? Atm maybe something to play with batteries and switches and figure out how to tune the engine with it
th-cam.com/video/RT0M88xHzNQ/w-d-xo.html You won't see that kind of gain from 6 psi from either a turbo or a supercharger.
You guys are not torturing the turbos enough to use an active oiling system. Just fill the cavity with gear oil and use two caps. If youre worried about it change the oil every race day
I use ISOflex NBU 15 grease in my bearings - have yet to repack them after a year of dyno and drag tests.
I'm using a me1616 motor and 175v 10,000rpm.
175v 600amps dc.
If you have a motor with a large enough diameter you can run a much larger setup....
I agree. Also moving to a more power dense axial flux motor could be beneficial in this application also?
Also I think using a reduction gearbox similar to what they use in a electric skateboard hub motor, perhaps? I'm biased with already having affinity for things with stationary gears and high RPMs 🤭 (it happens as a rotary owner)
The problem here is weight and complexity. That motor isn't much more powerful (actually, it's less powerful under continuous loads) than the LMT motor in the sledgehammer. However, it weighs 10x as much and would require significant step-up gearing; the LMT motor requires no gearing - it's direct drive to the impeller. There are two paths to power: torque and rpm. Both give the same result (actually, rpm is typically better for a few reasons that would make this response too long, but let's call them equal). Most hybrids are going to smaller, higher rpm motors in their transaxles for exactly this reason. The challenge with the smaller, higher rpm motor is electronic mostly - which we've solved. The setup you're proposing would easily weigh at least 4 times as much for the motor/supercharger/gearbox alone as the completed Sledgehammer does. Plus, packaging it would be difficult if not impossible because it would be huge. And the performance would be, in a best case scenario, the same. However, I do like axial flux motors in concept, just not in this application. The final piece of the puzzle is matching the compressor's map to the application vs cost. This is the part that trips up most people. And, to be honest, the weakness of the Sledgehammer in it's current application. Put it on a 400 hp n/a engine and it would really sing - 500hp n/a like it is now pushed it towards choke.
@AlexLTDLX the v15 I was running had a 3.45:1 gearbox and I was running a 2:1 on the pulley, I have a atomic 998kw rebuild kit running 14.3mm headstuds, motor has seen over 1500hp on the v-15 off the me1616 for forced induction
That's 20,000 rpm at the pulley with 300nm of torque at take off.
You need to understand electric motor physics.
Double the stator width will achieve double the torque at the same kv.and amperage, but Double the diameter and you have around 4x the torque at the same kv and amperage.
Also a larger electric will handle MORE continuous power as it has a larger cooling surface.
In saying that the me1616 is water cooled at 175v I dip to 167v with 600amps and capable pulling 600amps for 20 seconds continuous is not a problem.
99kw continuous is 132hp.
Also the me1616 is rated at 134nm at 550amp AC (phase) at 120v
At 175v stall torque is increased linear to voltage increase, at 550amp (phase) 175v you're looking at around 200nm,
And we all know that dc current at takeoff on a controller the phase side is much larger.
@AlexLTDLX for me it was a 1200hp gain for 120kg of weight.
Now if you compared running a dual motor to a motor that is double the diameter, you have simply doubled your torque. The double diameter setup regardless of the extra weight is more efficient.