I've always believed, cleanliness is next to godliness, that meticulousness can save you head aches down the road. I like that you always have a nice sense of humor without getting cocky. You're a regular kind of guy with a proven trust worthy personality.
Your one of the only guys that places the head on block without studs installed 1st. The proper way to do it so you dont run risk of studs rubbing on head and putting small shavings between head gasket and head.
@@themechanic6117 umm but this on the 4×2 automatic 2.4 k24 crv with turbo stock internals Forjed transmisión automatica forjada para más potencia o más k20 head
A thought on turning the head studs beyond finger tight: The stock head bolts never bottom out in the block because the bolts are shorter than the total stack height of the head, gasket, and threaded block holes. Because of dissimilar metals (Aluminum block and steel studs) having different rates of expansion, there may be a condition where the studs place pressure on the block at the bottom of the holes that the designers never accounted for.
you are correct on expansion, i have seen studs pull out under extreme boost, the expansion of the studs screwed tight into the block was enough with the boost to pull the threads. we found bottom out and back off 1/4-1/3 turn out was optimal with some threadlock on studs
Torque wrench’s can false read if you “jerk” them, it’s easy to do on the low torque numbers, but technically to get the most accurate measure, you would want to use as much swing as possible per pull, to make it as consistent a turn as possible. Also lube on the block studs will do that too.
Great presentation. At 10:07 I would suggest a 6 point socket, not 12 point. Even less chance of rounding off the nut or bolt head because you have more of the socket surface in contact with that nut or bolt. Here's a quote from Tekton : "For 6-point fasteners, a 6-point tool is your best choice. Matching up the points between the tool and fastener means that you will maximize the surface area of steel in contact, making the tool less likely to slip or fail. This is important when you’re applying a lot of force, especially if the fastener is damaged or rusted."
Way too much love. Ive done a K24 head job an a breezy day, she drove it back across the country the next morning and is still doing fine after over a year 👍 My favorite 4cyl are 4G63, 4AGE and K24
You don't need arp lube on the block side of the studs, they don't turn and affect the torque so all it needs is a little oil so they don't seize and go in nicely. Won't hurt anything to use the arp lube, but you only get a little bit in the package so you can save some by just using oil on the bottom. Build looks nice, good job man.
I was just talking to someone else who commented about that. I read the instructions closely and yes I shouldnt have put lube on the block side. Whats done is done. If it ever comes apart again. Ill install them dry on the block. Thanks for the comment 👍
Would u need to get your car tuned straight away after frank swapping? Am planning on doing a K24/K20, not sure if the sensors and AFR will be fine or not
Definitely don't add any extra tq to the head studs. Just finger tight otherwise you're changing the stressors on the block that can warp it and affect head clamping loads.
I would love to build a cylinder head to learn a bit more, but I don’t exactly know which specific high flow cylinder head matches with the k24 long block that I have; any suggestions?
When I’m at work using a torque wrench I meow when it clicks, I’ve been doing so before I saw this video. So it’s funny as shit to see someone else do it lol. The only differences is I meow lol and I work on rockets.
I live in Maryland. Where can I find people like this with whom I can work with to take my engine apart, clean it and replace engine parts such as valve seals, piston rings, and pistons? I hate having to buy a new car when things go bad such as oil consumption or lack of power.
Does the K20 head have all the sensors on the back? Doing a K24 RX8 swap and since my k24 heads have cooling and sensor on back having to chop the firewall if used, using the k20 head will remove the water neck at rear, not sure about the sensors.
I know the vid is a bit old. Not sure if you will remember but I’m doing a k20z3 head swap on my k24z7 and I’m being told that I need to weld the head or I will have a oil leak I’m wondering if you would have any info on this
Hi i need some help for suggestion about my k24a rbb2 head the question if i will put rbc2 head with out rocker arm and cam only i have rocker arm and cams from rbb2 head it possible to use it
I am doing a similar k20/k24 build. Running 12.5 with Aries piston and DC elite endurance cam. Do you think it’s a good idea to limit the VTC to 40dregree or 45 degree?
Sorry, the video went straight on how to build it. But I want to know, what’s the purpose of using k20 head for the K24 block? What are the advantages and disadvantages.
@@themechanic6117 okay. Questions: Is this mix of k20 and k24 worth it?? Give reasons Would you buy a k24 long block w/ 88 mm bore? Give reasons Also, I saw a 07 fd2 type r for sale. For around 16000 USD. In my country it's 2.5 million jmd. It has a k24 long block 88mm bore and a k20 type r head. With Manley rods and 12.1 Carrillo forged pistons and other things. My question is: do you think it's worth the cost? Here's a link: khaleelmotorsports.com/listings/2007-honda-civic-type-r-fd2/
Always wanted to do a k24 bottom with a k20 head on a civic si. This video confirmed my wants this shit looks fun, guess it’s goodbye to the Ford Focus lolll
I believe K24A does not have vtec on exhaust and the K24A2 has vtec on both exhaust and intake cams. Can I use my k20z3 head on the K24A2? Or is it only compatible with K24A?
So im thinking of k swapping me integra with a k20. Am i better off just using a k24 bottom end instead? Seeing as ill be building the whole engine anyway. The mounts and parts are basically all the same arent they? (Between the k20 and k24)
@@themechanic6117 different but in the same place? Sorry just want to learn as much as possible. Its a kswap into an integra , and if it takes little to no more effort to use a k24 bottom end i will 😂
I think the Crv head gasket has a slightly larger bore diameter but I can't remember. My bores are 87.5mm if I remember correctly so if the oem head gasket is lager than that then you can use the oem
@@themechanic6117 I apologize for asking so late as I've been watching the build and updates to the car but have you thought about doing a video with the costs involved with the engine build? I'm sure some parts were sponsored but if you could add that as well. I appreciate the great details. I have even started using coffee filters. LOL
The sponsor I got was at the very end of my build so it didn't save me money money because I had already bought everything out of pocket. It's hard to say how much I have invested in the engine alone. I'd have to sit down one day and go through the prices
I fix a ton of cars . Never had fel pro fail me. Also it's a bit of an experiment. Every gasket on this engine is from fel pro , let's see how well everything holds up
Whats the diffrence in jdm k24a and oil just shiming the the stock or s2000 since new stuff come out I built one these on the ground gotta start some were for real its still running using factory k series parts head bolts and all in a ek 99-00 with with type r trans and they went threw i tuned setup and shifter alot of money now you can just adjust accord or whatever unless your not a quick shifter $$$$$$$$$$$$ thats why I'm still b series but I know all the bore and stroke and gap etc on k F D H J C all of em generations
@@themechanic6117 how has this run for temp wise? I was gonna leave out coolant divider because the k20a2 block doesn't use it and thats what my head is goning on k24 block. Ive been reading many keep it out but wondering myself if i should leave it in block
@@themechanic6117 the k20a is 86mm bore . The k24 is 87mm bore. I guess my question was wouldn't the combustion chambers squish diameter on the 2.0 head have to be machined 1mm larger to match? Plus .5 overbore?
No, even though the bore of the 2.0 is a 86mm the dome on the head is large enough to accommodate the k24. 1mm isnt much. Even it bored over .5 its still ok
get a k24a4 from a accord or crv . theyre easy to find and shouldnt cost much. its hardto say because every build is diffierent . you can put it together for a lot less than i did. ive got about 8k in mine right now
Nice. Glad to see a 24/20 build :) Did you send the head to a machine shop for a refinish or did you sand the block and head yourself? MLS gaskets need a 30 RA smoothness to seal well.
Hello there! Nice video! So, a question... Do you have to change anything on the k24 or the k20 head, for them to fit perfectly? or its "plug n play" ? thanks!
@@themechanic6117 yea I saw the one you used, by that u mean one that is made specifically for this kind of job then? Digging the others videos to my man!
This tutorial is complete, well presented, easy to understand and without bullshit like in a Vlog. Straight to the point. This is nice.
Thank you👍
I've always believed, cleanliness is next to godliness, that meticulousness can save you head aches down the road.
I like that you always have a nice sense of humor without getting cocky.
You're a regular kind of guy with a proven trust worthy personality.
Thank you for the comment 🙏
That engine won't ever be as clean as it is right now before it gets attached to a frame. Jim Ross moment was top notch bro! Loved that move
Lol I gotta admire it will it's still clean . I'll try my best to keep it looking good. 😂👍
Dude this is such a quality video. The editing, the camera, the commentary, the memes. Absolute magic brother
Thank you, I appreciate that 👍
I was going to say the same comment.
Your one of the only guys that places the head on block without studs installed 1st.
The proper way to do it so you dont run risk of studs rubbing on head and putting small shavings between head gasket and head.
Yeah that doesn't sound like a good idea to me .
The sense of humor is off the charts.
👍💪😂
where can I get a meowing torque wrench? I NEED ONE!
Limited edition 😂
MegaCyberC call up snappy
@@themechanic6117 umm but this on the 4×2 automatic 2.4 k24 crv with turbo stock internals Forjed transmisión automatica forjada para más potencia o más k20 head
A thought on turning the head studs beyond finger tight: The stock head bolts never bottom out in the block because the bolts are shorter than the total stack height of the head, gasket, and threaded block holes. Because of dissimilar metals (Aluminum block and steel studs) having different rates of expansion, there may be a condition where the studs place pressure on the block at the bottom of the holes that the designers never accounted for.
you are correct on expansion, i have seen studs pull out under extreme boost, the expansion of the studs screwed tight into the block was enough with the boost to pull the threads. we found bottom out and back off 1/4-1/3 turn out
was optimal with some threadlock on studs
he’s actually so right about this ford has taught me very well that steel and aluminum are not friends
That Bob Ross reference was golden.
😂👍
He'll Yea grew up on Bob Ross!
That ref was platinum.
Thank you😂👍
Torque wrench’s can false read if you “jerk” them, it’s easy to do on the low torque numbers, but technically to get the most accurate measure, you would want to use as much swing as possible per pull, to make it as consistent a turn as possible. Also lube on the block studs will do that too.
Just tighten it down to 3 ugga duggas
I like how clean and meticulous you are..keeping it clean and doing it right the first time..nice build!
Thank you 👍💪
LOL loved the "meow".. you know we were all waiting for that click of the torque wrench
Lol I edit the video and it still makes me laugh 😂👍
Dang lol 😂😭
Waiting so long every time....!
Great presentation. At 10:07 I would suggest a 6 point socket, not 12 point. Even less chance of rounding off the nut or bolt head because you have more of the socket surface in contact with that nut or bolt.
Here's a quote from Tekton : "For 6-point fasteners, a 6-point tool is your best choice. Matching up the points between the tool and fastener means that you will maximize the surface area of steel in contact, making the tool less likely to slip or fail. This is important when you’re applying a lot of force, especially if the fastener is damaged or rusted."
Yes
The nut is 12 point.......
But the nuts are 12 point lol
Way too much love. Ive done a K24 head job an a breezy day, she drove it back across the country the next morning and is still doing fine after over a year 👍 My favorite 4cyl are 4G63, 4AGE and K24
Sounds like you did a great job if its been going strong 💪
You don't need arp lube on the block side of the studs, they don't turn and affect the torque so all it needs is a little oil so they don't seize and go in nicely. Won't hurt anything to use the arp lube, but you only get a little bit in the package so you can save some by just using oil on the bottom. Build looks nice, good job man.
I was just talking to someone else who commented about that. I read the instructions closely and yes I shouldnt have put lube on the block side. Whats done is done. If it ever comes apart again. Ill install them dry on the block. Thanks for the comment 👍
@@themechanic6117 It won't hurt anything at all, they bottom out
I’m looking to do a k24 block with K20 head in my RSX! Can’t wait to start my build
This is moving along faster than expected I'm excited for the build
It sure is, it took the longest to buy most things I needed before I started recording assembly
Would u need to get your car tuned straight away after frank swapping? Am planning on doing a K24/K20, not sure if the sensors and AFR will be fine or not
LOL Love the Crown TV set. I really do appreciate how complete this is. Thank you so much for a great tutorial.
Thank you for the comment, I appreciate you watching. 👍
@@themechanic6117 Just so you know. I'm 16. I'm building my own car from the ground up. And guys like you, are my University :)
That's great, it's the best way to learn.
Definitely don't add any extra tq to the head studs. Just finger tight otherwise you're changing the stressors on the block that can warp it and affect head clamping loads.
I really like your editing and work that you put in this video. You've got a new subscriber here!
Thank you! I appreciate it
I would love to build a cylinder head to learn a bit more, but I don’t exactly know which specific high flow cylinder head matches with the k24 long block that I have; any suggestions?
The star wars intro on the head part killed me.
😂😂thanks for watching
When I’m at work using a torque wrench I meow when it clicks, I’ve been doing so before I saw this video. So it’s funny as shit to see someone else do it lol. The only differences is I meow lol and I work on rockets.
😂😂👍
I live in Maryland. Where can I find people like this with whom I can work with to take my engine apart, clean it and replace engine parts such as valve seals, piston rings, and pistons? I hate having to buy a new car when things go bad such as oil consumption or lack of power.
Had to give a like for the "Painting with Jonathan Ross" bit!! 👍😆
Thanks! 👍
I logged in and liked, the second I laughed at the Bob Ross Brush strokes
Thank you
Awesome Job man glad to see somebody taking the time to do it right and pass on useful correct information 👍🏻
Thank you. Appreciate the comment
What happened to some tips on the washers? Great video. I’m looking for info why the 20 head is worth swapping.
Thé bob ross bit killed me 💀💀💀
🤣👍 thanks for watching
If money was no object, what head gasket would you go with?
Ive never used "performance" head gaskets so im not sure. Ive used felpro on many of customers cars with no problems its why i went with this one
I use cometic head gasket
Does the K20 head have all the sensors on the back? Doing a K24 RX8 swap and since my k24 heads have cooling and sensor on back having to chop the firewall if used, using the k20 head will remove the water neck at rear, not sure about the sensors.
The rear has the two cam sensors and coolant temperature sensor
Can I put k24 cams in a k20 head?? Trying to do a frank build
I know the vid is a bit old. Not sure if you will remember but I’m doing a k20z3 head swap on my k24z7 and I’m being told that I need to weld the head or I will have a oil leak I’m wondering if you would have any info on this
Hi i need some help for suggestion about my k24a rbb2 head the question if i will put rbc2 head with out rocker arm and cam only i have rocker arm and cams from rbb2 head it possible to use it
May I ask why a coffee filter? Is it so no fabric particles enter the motor after assembling?
I am doing a similar k20/k24 build. Running 12.5 with Aries piston and DC elite endurance cam. Do you think it’s a good idea to limit the VTC to 40dregree or 45 degree?
In this video I'm installing the timing chain and using a 40 degree vtc which was recommended by drag cartel
th-cam.com/video/2lgUUZbn_F0/w-d-xo.html
Big thumbs up for the Bob Ross bit.
Thanks for watching 👍
The reason they don't want you to torque down these head studs.
is because wen metal gets hot It expands
I understand. If i have a failure from me slightly tightening them I'll let the world of TH-cam know.
That's one thick gasket! Great job Jonathan.... naughty little brush ... 😂😂😂
Thanks! 😂😂 gotta have some humor in the video lol
Sorry, the video went straight on how to build it. But I want to know, what’s the purpose of using k20 head for the K24 block? What are the advantages and disadvantages.
You can Google that. Plenty of people talk about it in forums
Explain the first part of the vid with the 88mm bore and the cylinder 87.5
The k24a4 has a stock 87mm bore...
@@themechanic6117 okay. Questions: Is this mix of k20 and k24 worth it?? Give reasons
Would you buy a k24 long block w/ 88 mm bore?
Give reasons
Also, I saw a 07 fd2 type r for sale. For around 16000 USD. In my country it's 2.5 million jmd.
It has a k24 long block 88mm bore and a k20 type r head. With Manley rods and 12.1 Carrillo forged pistons and other things. My question is: do you think it's worth the cost?
Here's a link: khaleelmotorsports.com/listings/2007-honda-civic-type-r-fd2/
Wouldnt it be advantageous to put a bit higher compression pistons, like 12:1 and deeper valve clearance, to full advance vtc to 50 degrees?
The pistons i have are 12.5 :1 comp... And the vtc is physically limited to 40 degrees
Can anyone explain me, why mostly tuner using k20 instead k24 on k24 block? What make it different?
I have a 2009 honda accord that i want to do k20 head. What is all that i need? And also if you can do it and how much?
Nice bro ..do you have any one know if you have to torque the arp studs themselves?..
ARP says finger tight for the studs
The 80 ft lbs torque was that the arp specs or honda..?
@@benflores5066 80 is from ARP oem head bolts have a different torque spec
I'm planning on doin the same build I really appreciate your simple and basic instructions..have you ran that setup ?..
@@benflores5066 not yet, check out my more recent videos of my crx I purchased . Trying to get it ready for the engine.
What k20 head is good for a frankstein built?
K20a2
Bro your editing is lit 😂
Thank you 👍💪
A kalita wave filter for cleaning an engine block? Why not.
Always wanted to do a k24 bottom with a k20 head on a civic si. This video confirmed my wants this shit looks fun, guess it’s goodbye to the Ford Focus lolll
Ford focus is not the way 😂😂👍
Did you contact felpro about that head gasket?? That’s weird,must be an error
What do you mean? What's wrong with the head gasket?
I just found your channel and your videos are straight to the point and understandable subscribed
Thank you
I believe K24A does not have vtec on exhaust and the K24A2 has vtec on both exhaust and intake cams.
Can I use my k20z3 head on the K24A2? Or is it only compatible with K24A?
Okay so a k20a2 head on a k24a is better then a full k24a? When you do a k24a with k20a2 head which ecu and wiring loom do you use?
Love your vids man do you have a part number for the arp head studs?
So im thinking of k swapping me integra with a k20. Am i better off just using a k24 bottom end instead? Seeing as ill be building the whole engine anyway. The mounts and parts are basically all the same arent they? (Between the k20 and k24)
The passenger engine mount is different i believe but for the most part its the same. The k24 bottom makes more power than the k20
@@themechanic6117 different but in the same place? Sorry just want to learn as much as possible. Its a kswap into an integra , and if it takes little to no more effort to use a k24 bottom end i will 😂
The mount on the engine is different but they're in the same location so you can just swap to which mount you need
Why did you have to use the CRV head gasket instead of the stock on?
I think the Crv head gasket has a slightly larger bore diameter but I can't remember. My bores are 87.5mm if I remember correctly so if the oem head gasket is lager than that then you can use the oem
Video work was solid. Not here for bob ross or cats. Other than that ⭐⭐⭐⭐ here. Thanks for posting
Thanks for watching
Bro, can I just send you my new Short Block and have you build it up? Damn.. I love and appreciate your attention to detail.
Good on you bro.
Lol i tried to do what i can. Dont praise me 😂 the engine will either run good or blow up.... Who knows at this point lol
That was great thanks i always wanted to build but was always sxared you seem very confident on what you do
What ecu do you use when using k20 head on k24 block? The k20 or k24 or does it not matter or do you gave to have hondata or kpro?
I believe you can use the oem ecu but in my case im going with a kpro or hondata
Are you able to put the K20 head on the K24 without any modification or do you need to replace certain part for the head to Work/fit?
In my case no mods, it just bolts right on.
@@themechanic6117 Sick thank you for that info
Do you have any idea what the compression ration is running stock 06 TSX pistons on a Z1 head?
Sorry i dont
Are you still planning to put this motor in the CRX? I'm looking at a CRX and wondered if this would really fit. thanks!!!
Yes it's going in my crx . It's going to fit but I won't clear the hood without spacers. I plan on just cutting a hole in my hood
@@themechanic6117 I apologize for asking so late as I've been watching the build and updates to the car but have you thought about doing a video with the costs involved with the engine build? I'm sure some parts were sponsored but if you could add that as well. I appreciate the great details. I have even started using coffee filters. LOL
The sponsor I got was at the very end of my build so it didn't save me money money because I had already bought everything out of pocket. It's hard to say how much I have invested in the engine alone. I'd have to sit down one day and go through the prices
great video, wondered if you knew if the k20Z4 (fn2) head would bolt to the K20A3 or A4 block?
Sorry I wish I knew
Shouldn't the cylinder head pages be screwed?
What?
Fel-Pro?! Really?! Why not OEM?? But you won me back with the ARP head studs.
I fix a ton of cars . Never had fel pro fail me. Also it's a bit of an experiment. Every gasket on this engine is from fel pro , let's see how well everything holds up
@@themechanic6117 For the sake of science 🧪! 😜
Great content great video great explanation couldn't be any better
Thank you for the comment 💪
this a K24A2 block? because you said use a crv head gasket, so I just want to make sure if the gaskets should be matched to the engine
K24A4 block. Use the gasket that matches the block. I got my block slightly over bored (87.5mm) so I'm using a crv gasket which i believe is. 88mm
@@themechanic6117 is the car still together today? I was thinking of going K24A2 since I found one for cheap.
@@mendozaolives the engine is still on the engine stand
@@themechanic6117 damn she been sitting for that long huh, what else do you have to do it to it
@@mendozaolives the engine itself is good to go. I just have to get my crx ready to put the k24 in it
The Bob Ross Meme Was Lit!
😂😂 thanks
Whats the diffrence in jdm k24a and oil just shiming the the stock or s2000 since new stuff come out I built one these on the ground gotta start some were for real its still running using factory k series parts head bolts and all in a ek 99-00 with with type r trans and they went threw i tuned setup and shifter alot of money now you can just adjust accord or whatever unless your not a quick shifter $$$$$$$$$$$$ thats why I'm still b series but I know all the bore and stroke and gap etc on k F D H J C all of em generations
Wow! Nice and clean. Frankenstein swap. Wow! What’s the advantage of K20 head to K 24 block?
The k20 head flows air better which creates more power.thanks for watching!
How much hp you shooting fr? Also building a k24/k20 right now!
I went for the 300whp build but realistically it won't make that. If I can make about 260 at the wheels I'll be happy .
Do you by any Chance have a link for the arp head studs thanks 👍
Great video dig the Bob Ross Reference
Thanks for watching
Do i need to mod anything for a k24a2 with k20z3 head?
What kind of k20 head would fit on a k24z6?
also would a k20 swap on a k24z6 be reliable?
this might be a dumb question but what head studs should i use the k20 or k24
If I remember correctly ARP head studs work for k20 and k24 . Even with a k20 head on a k24
Man that's funny good job on taking time this is a coffee break bolt on
Badass video Bob Ross part was funny great job
Thank you 👍
Great video, new to Honda minus a 86 si.
What is the compression ratio before and after the head swap? Thanks
Stock compression on this k24 is 9.7:1
After all the work I did compression should be closer to 12.5:1
Hmmm.... coffee filters; not a bad idea. Certainly lint free.
What k24 block is this
K24A4
9:46 Thank me later
Deez nuts
True tho
For this build did you remove the coolant diverter in the block?
No its not necessary to remove it. Honda put it there for a reason.
@@themechanic6117 thanks for the reply.
@@themechanic6117 how has this run for temp wise?
I was gonna leave out coolant divider because the k20a2 block doesn't use it and thats what my head is goning on k24 block.
Ive been reading many keep it out but wondering myself if i should leave it in block
I don't know if there's long term problems. I left it in . Wish I had more info
i need a new head in my tsx & i was considering this 1, however i am not sure what ecu i should use. which 1 r u running if u don't mind my asking?
At the moment i dont even have a ecu.still need to pick one up but ill be using kpro
what else could you use other than coffee filters?
blue shop towels
Anything that doesn't leave material behind
Anything that doesn't leave material behind
Just use coffee filters
What is the max vtc for the Skunk2 ultra 1 cams for a stock k20z4?
Felpro MLS seals really good.
But is kinda thick than OEM. dropping the compression a little bit.
I believe the oem crv gasket is thicker than the felpro. If anything it bumps up comp a little bit .
@@themechanic6117 the felpro MLS for my d16y8 was thicker than the OEM
I guess it varies. I did check the thickness compared to oem and the felpro is thinner
@@themechanic6117 what was the thickness?
What specific year head and engine are you using for this set up?
Im not sure since i got the head off ebay.i believe its a 03-04 rsx type S head (PRB) . the block is a k24a4 from a (accord or element)
The mech a nic thanks for the reply👍
You're welcome
Man I need to get one of them meow mix torque wrenches! Lol
They're really cool 😎 lol
Is the bore the same? Or did you have to machine the head?
The head was milled down to just ensure its flat. The bored or bored over .5
@@themechanic6117 the k20a is 86mm bore . The k24 is 87mm bore. I guess my question was wouldn't the combustion chambers squish diameter on the 2.0 head have to be machined 1mm larger to match? Plus .5 overbore?
No, even though the bore of the 2.0 is a 86mm the dome on the head is large enough to accommodate the k24. 1mm isnt much. Even it bored over .5 its still ok
@@themechanic6117 thanx man.
Appreciate the info
You don’t have to torque the Allen key part of the arp studs to the block?? Just curious
No you dont. Instructions actually say something like finger tight.
1:57 in, first video I've watched of yours, subbed "all". 5:33 in...**mumblmumbl** "where's this guy's patreon..."
Thank you. Check the about sections in all my videos for any donations. Thank you 👍💪
I already have a k20 engine in my car what would be the benefits of a k24 bottom end ?? Thanks!!
They make more low end torque overall make more hp
The mech a nic nice!! What k24 engine would you recommend?? And how much do you think I would spend $
get a k24a4 from a accord or crv . theyre easy to find and shouldnt cost much. its hardto say because every build is diffierent . you can put it together for a lot less than i did. ive got about 8k in mine right now
400cc of extra discplacement cmon .... really ? Think of it as an airpump .. bigger airpump ..bigger power 👍
New to your channel, that meow torque wrench is epic 😁😁
Lol thank you! I Appreciate you watching 👍
Nice. Glad to see a 24/20 build :)
Did you send the head to a machine shop for a refinish or did you sand the block and head yourself? MLS gaskets need a 30 RA smoothness to seal well.
Thanks for watching, yes the head went to a machine shop 👍
@@themechanic6117 I see. Have you ever resurfaced one at home DIY? What about the block surface, did you resurface it by hand?
Thanks for posting this video up, very informative 👍🏻
Thanks for watching
Nice video!! Is that block the k24a2 .. with or without oil squirters?
Thank you. The block is a k24a4 (no oil squirters)
Hello there! Nice video!
So, a question... Do you have to change anything on the k24 or the k20 head, for them to fit perfectly? or its "plug n play" ? thanks!
Thank you. As far as the head itself its plug n play. Just make sure you use the correct head gasket .👍
@@themechanic6117 yea I saw the one you used, by that u mean one that is made specifically for this kind of job then? Digging the others videos to my man!
Yeah I used the head gasket for the k24 , not the k20
How much power you get of the k24 and k20 when is finished
With the right cams and pistons you can make over 300whp