How to Replace an Xbox One Elite Series 2 Controller Analog Joystick
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 มิ.ย. 2024
- Elite Series 2 Joystick Kit: amzn.to/3D8hxhR
~$30 Soldering Kit: amzn.to/2Y05Kig
~$20 Soldering Kit: amzn.to/3LbFFTi
Helping Hands 1: amzn.to/2PQVBzO
Helping Hands 2: amzn.to/3tTRyVv
or
sossgaming.com/shop
Need repair service?
sossgaming.com/repair-service/
IMPORTANT UPDATE: In order to get controller to power back on for testing, the new software update requires the back plate (which has the battery) to be connected.
Series 2 Drift Video: (to be released ~1 month)
Timeline:
Introduction - 0:00
Controller Teardown - 1:30
Joystick Removal - 5:40
Potentiometer Removal - 9:17
Solder Removal & Joystick Install - 10:43
Getting Full Range Method 1 - 13:25
Getting Full Range Method 2 - 14:10
Getting Full Range Method 3 - 14:36
Getting Full Range Method - 15:05
Controller Assembly - 17:54
Last Test & Outro - 20:35
Tired of having a non-working controller because the joystick isn’t functioning correctly? Replacing your analog stick will fix and repair many joystick issues and problems including but not limited to: stick drift, creeping, stuttering, blind spots, dead zones, no click, non-centered, broken, and loose joysticks. This method for replacing your joystick will fix these issues on Elite Series 2 Xbox One Controllers. In this video you will learn how to test your controller, take the controller apart, remove the analog joystick, install and replace the joystick with a soldering iron, and ways to get full range on the new joystick..
Searchable Keywords: Xbox One Elite Series 2 Controller Joystick Potentiometer Alps Sensor Replace Fix Repair Install Replacement Open Remove Stick Drift Broken Loose Creeping Stuttering Blind Spots no Click Not Clicking Solder
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Update: If your controller got the new software update, the back plate needs to be connected (because it has the battery inside it) for the gamepad tester to see the controller.
Also, links to the joystick and soldering kits are in the description.
Hello, with my right joystick it refuses to unthread and come out
@@bottledbeans8809 Have you tried using pliers and/or heating it up already? Or is it just twisting on you?
Would you possibly know a way to trick the board into thinking the battery is connected when its not? I bought the Elite Series 2 on release, years back in 2019, and immediately took it apart and removed the rumbles and battery for weight reduction. However, as you may know, Microsoft recently pushed a firmware update that secretly included no boot up upon no battery detected. It just continuously repeats power on cycle and restarts every time it fails to detect it. Such a pain as I’ve gotten used to the balance and rather play hardwired than forced wireless.
@@GHANDiFRESH Great question. I'm sure there's a technical way to go about tricking it, but I honestly would know where to start.
This sounds like a great question to ask on the acidmods forum.
@@SOSSGAMING Appreciate it; I thought I’d ask here anyways just in case it helped any other person with this particular scenario. I had an Idea beforehand how to try and go about it. Which was to buy a broken Elite Series 2 for salvage and use the chip inside that battery pack and wire it to the board closing a loop.
Microsoft casually making an overengineered, $200, annoying to repair piece of junk
#Facts
It's a fantastic controller. Not sure what you are talking about. I don't see any over engineering.
Mine only broke because I dropped it.
Maybe you just need to evolve, straight up
If it was overengineered, it wouldn’t be having these issues
@@italianbasegard Over engineered doesn't inherently mean it is going to have issues. Many over engineered things are reliable.
Furthermore, being over engineered means that the the same effect could have been achieved with a simpler solution without losing any functionality. So what could have been done differently and in a simpler manner without losing any of the Elite's functionality? Tell me specifically what could have been changed in this design.
Absolutely the best disassembly video of the elite series 2 and generally informative one too. Thank you so much for this!
This is a super detailed video and I appreciate it. I'm just surprised its this involved/difficult to replace. I really thought the elite series would be easier to repair, but I guess not..
If you’re having trouble removing the joystick, that tip provided in the video of heating up the joystick with a heat gun actually worked for me! Be sure to place a damp towel or cloth over the joystick to prevent you from melting any other components by accident.
This worked for my SCUF as well simple fix but don’t know how long it’ll last, but a quick fix was all I looked for
I completely broke a potentiometer trying to twist off a thumbstick. So thanks for this video. However, the way I removed potentiometers from my other Elites was by using a 2 nose pliers, one to the stem underneath the dome and one to above the dome with the thumbstick grips off. This made it so much easier and safe.
What 2 nose pliers are you talking about exactly? I can't find any that fit underneath the dome
I love you, amazing video. You are awesome and please keep making useful tutorials like this
Thanks man! I had one controller with bad shoulder buttons/dpad and dropped my new one and broke a joystick. Turns out the joysticks are on a separate board than everything else. Ur vid was clear and to the point. More I turned two junk controllers into one good one😊
Thanks, much needed after going through 3 controllers (all left thumbstick failures) during warranty period and then running out of warranty and 4th failing...
This video is amazing!!! I'm definitely looking for the video for the potentiometer replacement alone!
Sorry I just haven't got to it yet got slammed with other stuff. But basically just replace the potentiometer causing the issues and "calibrate it" as shown in the video if needed. Hope that helps.
@@SOSSGAMING do you have a good place to buy a replacement part for that pot?
@@HisZd11 If you live in North America I have a few listing of xbox joysticks and also one with the pots separately. If not, you may be able to find some on aliexpress.
I had to replace my front shell, because the rubber was starting to peel off, so this was very helpful thank you...
@soss gaming great video and instruction. I have the stick drift issue and didn't know if you had a video on how to fix that outside of changing the potentiometer
I don't, haven't been able to get around to doing that yet. But basically it's what you described, changing out the potentiometer. Nothing fancy really. The video I had planned was just going to be more streamlined.
Best Instruction for reparing :)
Thank you very much!!! Elite is saved. Operation complete 🎉
You're welcome! Glad it helped. Great job.
man, i saw a lot of "fix" videos, only this helped me!!!
Best video I've seen for this.
Thank you for all that you do
Managed to fix the left stick by just replacing the potentiometer .
Good video 👍👍👍
Nice! Great job.
I love my elite 2 controller 🤷🏻♂️ been using it for over a year and no issues. But if it did break I’d be willing to try and fix it thanks to the great video!
How does your controller not have problems? Mine got stick drift within a month. And my controller's front and back plates are cracking.
@@Drifded idk man it’s still working great. Just beat Jedi survivor with it 🤷🏻♂️
I have mine for year no problem till yester day my 2 year old was puching her toy amd drag the cable controller drop and the click on the left stock stop working i try to see. But dont have the patien for this so i smash it on the floor see if fix lol
@@joseanrodriguez2005 Damn man sorry to hear that. Yeah they definitely aren’t made to handle that kind of impact
My left joystick plate is loose and I thought my controller was broken, this video saved me money!
Great video! Fixed my friend’s elite controller. Very interesting way to remove the stick box by pieces. If you feel like you’re going to be doing this a few times, I’d recommend a hot air station. Helps with those pesky joints even after using a solder sucker. Once heated enough it just falls right out. These PCB boards, and the ps5 boards, are thick and require a lot of heat especially with unleaded solder.
Glad you had success with the hot air station! Thanks for the comment. Good luck on future repairs :)
I literally just Sealed up my controller following your replacement shoulder button vid lol
The gap in the tip of the solder sucker is a great idea
Great video as always! Music was not distracting at all btw! Can I ask where is the video detailing how to replace only the potentiometers? Im only seeing a handful of videos on your channel. Or is it imbedded in one of those?
Thanks so much! And thanks for the feedback on the music. I was supposed to have that video ready soon but it's going to take a little longer than I expected. Maybe a month. Sorry about that. It'll pretty much just cover replacing the potentiometers though, which I show at 9:17. If you know which axis the drift is occurring, all you need to do is replace that specific pot. Hope that helps.
@@SOSSGAMING No worries! Glad to provide the feedback! And sweet! Can't wait to see that other video! Does just replacing a particular axis mess with the factory calibration at all? (So id only be able to calibrate for pc?) And btw do you know which specific ALPS analog sticks i should be looking for on aliexpress or otherwise for xbox one/elite gen 1 controllers?
@@My_Intentions On an elite series 2 controller it'll probably be ok to just swap out because it calibrates itself. For other controllers they may need calibration, depending on what parameters you allow. On aliexpress, if you find a listing that has "oem" vs "original" go with the original.
Hey man having trouble the left stick it's double-clicking any idea on how to fix?
You really need to use flux more. It makes soldering and desoldering so much more easy. Also, your solder sucker should be used under the through hole you’re working on and your iron above, that prevents awkward angles and melting the tip of the sucker as you have done.
Yes, more flux can't hurt! Just more cleaning sometimes lol
And the tip of the solder sucker isn't from melting, it was purposefully cut to provide better suction (The cut part covers the iron so the solder sucker tip is more flush with the board)
Thank you soo much! Found this and saved myself 140 bucks!!!
Hey, do you Recommend a well priced heat gun? I can’t seem to find any 😢 thx
This will be my first try soldering anything, got a free elite 2 with a broken joystick. Other then that it's perfect. Thanks for the info.
Good luck!
Okay so I did what you said not too do. I was rough and pulled out of those metal rings! Is there any way to fix it?
@@TracyWerner4Prez Uh oh! Technically yes, I believe. Which joystick were you working on? left or right? and which through hole is damaged?
There should be a way to jump a wire from the pin on the potentiometer to a specific point on the board.
Awesome video thanks! But unfortunately my controller won’t turn on and I hear a very soft ticking/clicking noice inside when I press The Xbox button.
I’ve checked the 2 little black cables that go from the power to the motherboard and they seem to be fine.
Do you have any Idea what this could be?
Hey man, nice to see you back. I find that series 2 are a pain in the butt to replace the joysticks but at least they don’t need calibration
Thanks! Yeah, that lead-free solder can be troublesome.
@@SOSSGAMING why doesn't my controller recalibrate itself. I can't use gamepad tester So I just plugged it into the Xbox and not it's on but doesn't do anything what should I do?
Still no luck...it won't power up even with the cable directly connected. Thanks for the response, I appreciate it.
@@eneresolong Does the light try to come on at all? And both boards are connected to eachother? Pretty confused on this one. You might want to consider posting this question on the acidmods forum. They might be able to help better troubleshoot it.
@@SOSSGAMING it worked once for about 10 seconds before the light went out for good. As far as I can tell the boards are connected properly..I had a weird issue where the rumbles were firing non stop at full force before I removed them. Thanks for the tips I'll post if I ever learn more
So glad they are bringing calibration into the app.
Have you mucked about with swapping spring in the sensors yet?
I haven't swapped any springs from the elite 2 but on some other joysticks I have. Is that what you mean?
@@SOSSGAMING yeah.
I started down the rabbit hole about a week ago.
Then bought a few elite 2 controllers and was disappointed with the slop in the center dead zone then discovered how they are made and the importance of the spring strength on how the sensor functions at a mechanical level.
But yeah 3-5% on an elite 2 and it must be due to how the spring assembly is working or not working.
My mind jumped to progressive springs. So currently looking at small springs.
Good Video! Have a question: Are there no hall effect sensor for this controller?
Not that I am aware of. I believe the internals are not capable of using hall effect sensors, though I could be wrong.
Hi, at about 6:25 you mentioned a separate video you have if I only have stick drift but can’t find it. Is that video still available?
It is not, I'm so sorry. I have had too many other projects I've been busy with. Thanks for bringing it up, I may try to see if I can get started on that. Videos take a long time to make for me. In the meantime, for stick drift, basically all you need to do is replace the potentiometer causing the drift. That's really all there is too it actually.
very helpful thank you A++
I have a technical question:
To start, I'm pretty new to repairs like this. I have lots of mechanical experience, but more on larger scale.
I replaced both joysticks, while following along to this video. I couldn't get the controller to show up on the website, so I connected to my XBox (where I use the controller anyway), and there are two issues I've noticed, and am hoping you can point me in the right direction.
1. every button or movement is very sensitive now.
2. the right joystick, on the testing screen, shows it is being pulled to the bottom right, and doesn't move at all when I move the joystick.
Any help would be much appreciated!
Thanks,
Vinnie
They made an update to these controllers where now they require the battery pack to be connected for the controller to register with anything.
1. For the sensitive joystick movement, that would be due to the higher range potentiometers (assuming those were used). But for sensitive buttons, I honestly couldn't say. First time hearing an issue about that.
2. This could be caused by a number of things. Most likely cause (at least on other controllers) is damaged pads on through holes. But these controllers are built a bit more sturdy, so perhaps less likely. It also could be a damaged/lost small capacitor/diode that is used in providing that joystick power. Another possibility is the potentiometers themselves. An upside down wheel in the potentiometer could cause this. Simply open the potentiometer and make sure is in the upright position (flat part up). Or simply both potentiometers are faulty. Which seems like the least likely, but possible. One more thing I'd check the solder connections. If there are bridges between two pins this could cause the issue as well, along with a bad solder connection (which could be caused by damaged pads).
Hope that helps you move forward in solving this. Let me know if you figure it out.
Hello, Thank you for the feedback, Once you remove the bottom shell there is the battery underneath on the bottom side these are the connectors for the charging station and on the right side of the battery there is the motherboard connectors, I checked everything several times, at the level of the right screws that are used, it seems that something is pushing and losing contact with the connectors, everything is on the same side ...
Maybe try cleaning the contacts? Slim chance that will do anything. Stumped on this one dang.
Any reason after reconnecting the two central wires to the board and reattaching the front cover my controller might not turn on? Is there a step I missed in the test phase?
An update on the controller made it required to have the battery (which is part of the back plate) to be attached. Perhaps that's it? Does it turn on with the USB-C cable connected?
OMG Thank you!! Great Video. I never have taken my controller apart. But I do have a issue where the thumb domes were unscrewing themselves while i game. I guess i can take the faceplate off and then apply some loctite to keep them from unthreading? I was worried I broke my controller somehow and would need to replace it.
You could do that but I wouldn't recommend it if you were to ever want to remove them in the future. I would recommend torquing them down really tight (perhaps get some pliers to apply more torque). That's been working for me.
To avoid scratching your thumb sticks columns, or breaking the joystick, if you have one, I'm assuming you do if you're tearing down an electronic, insert a small Phillips screwdriver onto the top of the joystick, and unscrew. That's what that's there for. Other than that, the rest of video perfectly helpful. Thank you so much.
Not really, those are there to adjust like... the resistance of the joystick
@@strongnb136 not just for that. Engineers wouldn't leave the only way to remove joysticks by applying a pair of pliers to a plastic column to scratch it up. A screw can have more than one purpose and I would bet those screws are Philips to 1 easily adjust the tension and 2 safely remove the columns without damaging them.
Are you assuming it is used that way or have you done it?
Hey there, having an issue where after resoldering this twice, with two different replacements, I still have the controller showing a constant down and to the right registration. It's my right joystick. You mentioned in another comment that I may need to run a wire to a specific spot on the MB to fix. Any ideas to help fix?
Yeah sounds like the pads are messed up. Message my gmail sossgamingcs. I've been really bad at responding lately though as I'm out of country, apologies.
Did you have any trouble sucking out the solder on the 4 ground points? I had to use both a hakko solder sucker, and place an iron on the other side of the pcb to get enough heat flow going.
Yeah, it can be a pain sometimes. Sometimes just have to keep going at it to get it.
I originally was inside my control to repair the right bumper but when removing the thumb sticks, there was enough thread locker on them to hold a light nut on a car, so my joysticks twisted inside themselves and now I'm replacing those. Thanks for the video. I'm going to use solder wick and remove all solder and try and remove the joysticks in 1 solid piece rather than cit them apart.
Oh no :/ Did the plastic inside the joystick housing break?
@@SOSSGAMING yea, it twisted it around inside the housing. They work still somehow but they don't feel right and they stick at times. I play mainly 1st person shooter titles so they need fixed if I hope to have any accuracy, 😂.
do you know of a fix for the left stick double clicking when pressing it (clicking twice when pressing it once)
Sadly it will require the joystick replacement it seems. Good luck!
Its working thx
Hello, Love the video and your other one about replacing the bumper switches! I have run into a bit of a problem though. I've done everything up until the gamepad testing and when I connect the two boards together the lights turn on but neither the xbox controller app or the gamepad tester site recognize the controller as being connected. Any advice to help me get it working again? Thanks!
I've been getting a few people mention this. One told me they screwed the screws in and it worked, another told me they just waited a while.
You may also need to press a button, like a,b,y, x for it to register. Let me know what you find out or if either of those tips worked. So far this is still a mystery.
Thanks for the tip, I got it working! Putting everything back together with the screws seemed to do the trick! My only other issue is the thumbstick seems to catch a little bit in some directions. I think maybe its getting a snagged up on the the edge of the potentiometer but Its not enough of a pain to risk breaking anything trying to move it haha thanks again!
@@z1otis Awesome! You put the whole controller together or just the screws? Also, is the thumbstick snagging with the front cover on? If the front cover wasn't on, then that's normal.
@@SOSSGAMING The screws didn't work by themselves but with everything back together it started to work. And unfortunately it snags with the cover on, its not too noticeable but definitely different than the other stick.
@@z1otis Thanks for the info. And I'm sorry to hear that. I wonder what it could be. Wondering if the thumbstick isn't tight enough or if the joystick isn't as flush as it could be. That shouldn't happen. Hmmm.
Hey man I have a question my left thumb stick doesn’t click like it should but the right one is fine is there a fix?
Yep, probably not the fix you want to hear but replacement will fix it.
Awesome Tutorial! But where can I find high Range Sensor Potentiometers? (14:38) I've never heard of those before...
Thanks! The one's shown in the video are from Nintendo Pro controllers. It's honestly a nightmare trying to source them. You might be able to find some on AliExpress, but the white PS4 potentiometers have higher range and will work too. Be careful not to get the "OEM" ones with integrated deadzone.
How do you melt the solder so easy i just cant get it to melt i only have a soldering iron but goes all the way to 450c but even at that temp the solder stays put not not a sign of melting i try adding my own solder to it to help it melt but just sits on the solder and does not melt it. Is it some high heat solder they use or am i just doing it wrong as i worked on 360 controllers and Xbox one controllers before with no problems it is just the elite ones that do not want to melt for me.
The lead-free solder on these boards are quite difficult to work with. I would have said to add your own leaded solder, but since you mentioned you've tried that, I'm guessing the solder iron just doesn't get hot enough. That's the only explanation I can think of. It's really a pity they used the lead-free solder on these boards.
Hey, just out of curiosity, do you know if you could change out series x/s analogue sensors with the elite v2 ones?
I believe they should work. But 2 things to keep in mind if planning on changing the joysticks: you will also need Elite Series 2 dome pieces and thumbsticks, and because the joysticks sit a little higher, the dome piece may rub against the front cover. I don't really see that as being an issue but it's possible so it's worth mentioning. Hope that helps
Hi! What about the hall censor? I saw it on the market. Will it work?
On the Elite 2's I'm not so sure. Did you ever figure out if they will?
Hi! I was wondering if you had tried to reduce the loosenes of these Elite V2 sticks by modding them or something, because they might be the most wobbly sticks out there.
And btw, what are high range potentiometers?
Unfortunately I believe that's because of the design. Not sure there is anything to do about that. The high range potentiometers allow for a higher sensitivity. Meaning less movement on the joystick is more movement in game. I only recommend using them either on the left joystick or when the normal potentiometers just aren't able to give enough range. Hope that helps.
@@SOSSGAMING Thanks! But where or how do I look for those potentiometers?
@@ivanaviNiebla I'm not sure you can anymore. But you can try online. Like mouser, or aliexpress. The supplier I had located who had connections to the manufacturer is no longer able to get anymore. It's kind of stressing me out lol. But they're actually not necessary because you can use potentiometers from PS4 joysticks which have higher range than xbox as well. Those ones might even be better for this.
@@SOSSGAMING Oh thanks, I didn't know that. I just bought Alps for the NS, Xbox and PS4 and PS5 to learn the differences and advantages or disadvantages they have.
I tore down one of the analogs. Theres basically a spring that pushes on a cup to bring it back to center. On my used joystick the cup and the bottom of the housing were NOT worn. I suspect a weak spring may be a large cause of the drift. Was going to cut down a spring and stack them to test ie a helper spring.
Hello, Thank you for your videos, I disassembled and changed the LB / RB buttons, I have a problem reassembling once I put the screws on the side of the X / Y / A / B buttons, or that I put the case back on, the controller no longer turns on wirelessly, only in USB, I am in France, Do you have any idea of the contact required during assembly... Thank you
Sounds like an issue with the battery. The two cables from the front and back board are for the battery I believe. Make sure they are connected well. I'm not sure if polarity matters (which cable is snapped in to which spot), but it might as well. That's all I can think of at the moment.
I had viewed another video that said that the controller that comes with the Series X has auto calibration. Do you know if this is the case as well?
I can't confirm this as I've not dealt with that controller yet, but that would be great news if true.
Hello! I replaced my joystick and pots on my right thumbstick. I'm not sure what I did, but it doesn't not ready any up and down movement or clicking the joystick, but doesn't read left to right. I did try a different pot and it didn't help. Any suggestions?
This is for the elite 2 controller? It's not typical that a through hole is damaged, as they are better than the standard controllers (which is a common problem when trying to repair), but that may be the issue.
What temp is ideal to remove the solder? I can’t seem to melt it even at high temps.
On these controllers maybe about 400C. I put mine at about 380 and it barely is enough. I also add regular leaded solder to help it melt.
If you are just replacing the potentiometer do you need to calibrate it too?
Nope! It will automatically calibrate by itself moving around but some have told me you can also calibrate it in the accessories app now for quicker results! No physical calibration required on the elite series 2 or the X/S models.
Hey is there a tutorial you could make to install a better joystick in? Like maybe one of those magnetic based ones that have a 100x longe lifespan. Forgive me if I being ignorant on electronics hardware, not too versed on the subject.
As far as I'm aware those type of joysticks aren't compatible. They require different type of electronics on the motherboards. Would be nice though!
What happened to the video on replacing switch joy cons? I purchased your kit on Amazon, followed your amazing step by step video and the replacement parts work flawlessly. I told a friend I’d send the links to the parts & your video, but it’s not on your channel any more. What’s up?
Sorry about that! Thanks for letting me know. And thanks for the support and word of mouth. I took it down because I'm going to upload two separate videos (for each controller).
Do you have any ideas as to how to fix unresponsive AXYB buttons? The rubber pad seems to be low quality on the Elite 2 and I don't know if there's a simple solution.
That's a great question. Have you tried an aftermaket pad? I think I vaguely remember it also being something to do with too much wiggle room in the holes in the front cover, not sure if that's correct though. Unfortunately I haven't looked too much into this yet, sorry.
Now did you replace them with the same ones or did you put better ones in place of them?
Unfortunately there aren't any better ones that I'm aware of (ones with the adjustable tension, anyway). It's technically possible to replace with regular xbox joysticks or even PS4 ones, with minor modification.
I attempted to repair an elite 2, the issue was stick drift on the left joystick, and the L3 button was being pushed down at all times. So I took it apart, was able to remove the wipe disks, and used some spare PS5 wipe disks I had laying around. The next issue I am having is that the joystick drift has worsen, do you believe this is caused due to my initial idea of using another controllers wipe disk as a universal one and then being incorrect on that? I havent yet checked if the wipe disks are different as I assumed they were universal, will check when I get off work under the microscope.
It's possible the new wiper shows worse drift. But it's also most likely the potentiometer has run it's course. There is carbon inside that wears down over time. Simply replacing the potentiometer should fix it. You can switch with a PS4 one even, then calibrate after.
I bought these joysticks from your Amazon page and I’m having a problem with the left joystick after replacing it and using the new pots that came in the box. Vertical axis works great, horizontal axis is inverted when I test. Pushing left goes right. Did I get a faulty joystick?
I've never heard that one before! Sounds to me like a settings issue. Check the joystick settings in the accessories app and/or the game settings on the game that you are playing. Let me know if that solves it or not.. Not sure what else it could be, but I'll try to think.
Do you know if it's possible to change to hall sensors?
I'm pretty confident it's not possible as it uses different type of input from what I understand.
15:00 What is the pot Resistance Value for the High Range Pots? Great In-depth video.
Thanks! I believe they are 10k.
Hi there followed your video to replace left thumbstick... took a while but got there n all works but now rotating it feels blocky if that makes sense rather than smooth like the right thumbstick. Any ideas where I may have gone wrong?
Hmmm. And this is with the cover on? Perhaps the dome piece isn't screwed in all the way?
a copper mash would make it way easier to remove the older soldering, besides this, nice video man, thanks =)
Is it possible to change the sticks with the one from Gulikit on the Elite?
As far as I'm aware they are not unfortunately.
Great video. My problem is when trying to rmove the covers on the thumbsticks, they end up just spinning. Do I need to apply some upward pressure or something? The analog joystick is fine and not broken.
Sounds like the rubber on the thumbstick is what's spinning. Try using pliers like shown in the video if you can.
@@SOSSGAMING I am running into the same issue. I have tried using the longer joy stick w/ and w/out pliers, no joystick just pliers on the "nub", a screw driver, and I have even heated it up as well. I can feel and see the dome spinning (mine has a very small blemish I can see rotate). Any other ideas I can try? I was able to get the left one off no problem but the right one is being extremely difficult. Thanks for the video!
@@chasel907 Sounds like the joystick itself broke somehow. When you tilt the dome piece and look under it, do you see it broken somewhere? And when you turn it looking under the dome piece at the joystick, what do you see happening?
If you're trying to save it, I suppose the only way out of that is desoldering each pin. You will basically need a desoldering iron to do this. It may take a bit of work to get each pin free.
Another option may be trying to chop the joystick up enough to free the metal piece holding the dome piece. Not sure how viable that option is though.
Actually one last may be to hold the metal piece under the dome piece somehow while twisting the dome piece. That would take some type of needle nose pliers.
Let me know what you figure out.
@@SOSSGAMING Maybe it needs more time on the heating process for the glue to melt, its happening the same to me here.
@@strongnb136 The shaft part of the joystick broke inside you mean?
Bro answer me can i replace hall effect joystick on a xbox one controller will it work?
I've been told it will not :/
Hello, thank you for this great vid. I have a question I hope someone can answer. I’ll just say i needed to take apart the controller. I found a 4 stack of small magnets under the d-pad. They can’t possibly go there because the d-pad a stay or work right with them there. Do you have any info on them? Thank you
Do you mean the black part that the metal piece goes on? If so, the magnets are the keep the metal d-pad in place.
Can the adjustable thumbsticks be retrofitted onto the series 1?
I believe they should work. But 2 things to keep in mind if planning on changing the joysticks: you will also need Elite Series 2 dome pieces and thumbsticks, and because the joysticks sit a little higher, the dome piece may rub against the front cover. I don't really see that as being an issue but it's possible so it's worth mentioning. Hope that helps
It was all cool until he pulled out the saunter lol
Facts 😂😂😂😂
What is that?
Bro fr
@@joseanrodriguez2005i feel like you know what he meant you’re just tryna be a smart ass
@@CarBleach no i dont no what saunter is or mean
I tried following this guide and it was going well until I put my controller back together. My right trigger rumble pack constantly vibrates and I’m not sure why any ideas?
Interesting! It's somehow getting constant power, obviously. My guess is there is a solder bridge between the positive and negative terminals. There could also be a short wherever it is on the controller that switches the rumble on and off (and unfortunately I don't know where that it). You can also check the setting in the accessories app to make sure it's not constantly on somehow. Apart from that I'm not sure what else it could be unfortunately. Worse case you can just turn it off in the accessories app (I believe you can do that) or physically remove it.
what tool did you use to do the cutting?
Called a micro cutter!
Also, may i ask how you got rubbuer grips on your helping hands?
It's actually just electrical tape :)
Is it possible to replace the original joystick module with an electromagnetic one?
It may be technically possible, but I'm not aware of one that is out yet that works on xbox
I am looking to fix this issue on the Elite Series 1 controller. Do you know if the joysticks are the same for both Series 1&2? Thanks
They are different. You will need the standard xbox joysticks.
I remember I was struggling to melt the solder on the elite 1 controller(no issues on the normal controllers) and I'm assuming they're using the same solder as elite 1. Any tips on how to melt the solder?
The solder they are using on the Elite 2's is lead free solder. So it requires a higher temperature to melt. As mentioned in the video what can help is adding some regular leaded solder and flux to get it to melt better, along with the higher temperature (about 50c higher than normal I think) If I remember correctly it's around 400C
I’m curious but do I have to weld the joystick to the board or is it gonna affect it if I don’t
You will definitely need to solder the joystick in.
Hi, nice video, do you know If series controller has self calibration? Thanks :)
Yes it does. (Series 2 only, not the Series 1)
@@user-ul6df1vg5z They cannot. I'm hoping xbox introduces this feature in their future standard controller though. It's very nice.
@@SOSSGAMING Isn't this standard for almost all other controller brands? I believe most controllers calibrate the center when you turn the controller on. It's easy to test if a controller has auto calibration if you hold the joystick off center when you power it on, as that'll cause it to calibrate off center and basically force stick drift until you turn the controller off and on again. I think this is why stick drift is so common with Xbox controllers despite all major brands using the same ALPS joystick modules.
@@richard2667 No, it's not standard unfortunately (that I'm aware of). Other controller brands have software though that allow you to calibrate with when you open the software. Just not Sony or Microsoft, the two biggest controller manufacturers.
This was very helpful! I've replaced both stick modules. Just now the right stick click doesn't register anymore. Damaged button pad?
What does it show on the tester site when moving the joystick around? And what are the values?
@@SOSSGAMING ah forgot to edit here: It just didn't register the click. It was indeed the top right solder pad for the button. So I've tested a bit and traced it to a tiny smd resistor, where I could solder a jumper wire to. All is fine now and the black replacement modules from Ali are tighter feeling than the OG sticks when new. Got a brand new Elite Core here so can compare :-)
Stick movement is perfect. 0-2% drift depending on how well it returns to center. Better than new. But that solder combined with smaller holes and shorter mounting pins made it a pia vs. the old One controller :D
@@DIY-Morti Haha good to hear! They can definitely be a pia. The lead-free solder too
@@SOSSGAMING True, took a lot of time and 60/40 leaded solder to get this stuff flushed out. Even the desoldering station had no chance due to the pins being such a snug fit while being too short to reach and heat up! Desoldering a complete stick module took me 50 sec. on the Xbox One controller. The Elite 2 I had to cut to pieces prior to desoldering.
The elite controller comes with a little screw thing that you can use to unscrew the analog safely. It’s the round thing with the square tip just use that
Thats for changing the mobility of the joystick not removing it
I have a very curious quest can you put the elite 2 joystick in a ps4 controller pls respond
Yep! It is possible. With the current kit you can use the higher range potentiometers which are perfect for PS4. Otherwise you will need to source (or re-use) PS4 potentiometers. The xbox potentiometers currently on the joysticks will cause problems with lack of range.
Hey soss, i was wondering if i was able to email you about another video i followed about a microbutton replacement for my left bumper but it doesn’t seem to work anymore after soldering. Do you have any ideas?
Sure, no problem. Can you describe the symptoms? Is it always pressed? Not pressing at all? Sometimes working? Usually it's the switch itself, the soldering connection or unclean board (flux causing issues), or the profile being used on the controller has the bumper disabled.
@@SOSSGAMING i mean i had a pretty hard time trying to take out the solder from the holes and once i took them out and put the new button back in, it hasn’t worked at all. Maybe it was heat damage to the board since i was working on it for a while but i took a lot of breaks to let the board cool down. I scratched the board a few times trying to put pressure on the holes and accidentally scratched the board a little but i checked it after and it seems okay. I’m not sure if i broke the board or something lol.
@@minipie9175 Oh ok. I'm guessing that's what it is. You can send a pic of the board to my gmail sossgamingcs if you'd like and I can take a look and see if I notice anything.
My solder won't melt? I can hold my soldering iron there for 15 seconds and nothing happens. Yet it can burn through paper easily so passes the heat test. Any advice??
Add solder and flux. Ramp up the heat a little more if needed. And/or change tip out to one that is a little larger. Hope that helps.
What do you think about Gulikit KingKong 2 pro controller !!?
It has electromagnetic joysticks and triggers, drift proof
Woah that is really cool. I was wondering when someone would use electromagnets on joysticks. I hope this becomes the new norm on all controllers. Have you tried the controller yourself?
Never heard of it until now. That's amazing. Probably a matter of time now then until the big companies follow suit. Although I can still think of a reason why they wouldn't.
Is there any possible way to replace the sensors or the joystick without needing soldering or heating?? I just went through so much work, and purchased the kit to take my controller apart, just to realize I have to actually work on the motherboard in order to do this. Is there any easier way???
Hello, yes unfortunately soldering will be required. Sorry for the bad news!
If the pin breaks off in the board any tips to getting it out
Which pin are you referring to?
Does this affect the adjustable stick tension of the Elite Series 2?
They are the same joystick so they will have the same capability of adjustable stick tension.
Am I able to put the same joysticks in older controllers?
While I haven't done it myself, others have commented they have done it successfully.
I happen to own two Elite Series 2 controllers; one on release and one two years later. The latter has black potentiometers while the former has green. There is also very subtle differences between the two controllers internally. However, my question is, are there any differences between the pots other than color?
When something changes on joysticks , specifically the color of the potentiometers or the base, it's for a reason. My guess is that they are updated in some way, but not to do with changes to the potentiometers themselves. That's just my guess though.
@@SOSSGAMING Your guess is just as good as mine. Playstation controllers were the only ones, from what I’ve seen, that are notorious for multiple iterations of the same model of controller. It was interesting to see, as Im sure Microsoft’s gotten a handful of negative feedback due to the quality control of the Elite Series 2 on release. Especially given the fact that it sported a $180 price tag; its understandable. This is where it pays to know a little hands on skills. It’s very much rewarding to get things fixed yourself, rather than having to buy new or wait/send out for warranties. It’ll make you better off for it and there’s no greater feeling when you’ve succeeded. Thanks for your time and what you share to help others reduce e-waste, so that we all can just get back to gaming.
AHH U FINALLY MADE IT
Haha, indeed!
I think I messed up something when putting in the new stick and now with or without the joystick module in, the controller outputs the right stick pointing to the bottom right. If I put the joystick module in, I can move the value it outputs about a percent. Do you have a guess at what I may have messed up and how I could possibly fix it?
It also does not register the stick click anymore. I'm not too upset if this is unfixable since I have another controller, but it would be nice if this were fixable.
@@jamespham6088 Sounds like the joystick isn't receiving power. If it was having this issue before it could be because of a damaged/cracked board or corrosion somewhere. If it's new it could be damage to the board from working on it or perhaps one of the small capacitors/diodes fell off. I would inspect the board closely. But that's just my guess as to whats going on. You can post this question on the acidmods forum where there are some more knowledgeable people that may be able to help out more. Good luck!
What model is your soldering iron?
It's essentially the Weller WE1010NA
i tried removing the 2 circuit boards on mine but the right joy-stick is held in place by some membrane thing and i didn't want to yank it out to break it and just ended up breaking everythin
What type of solder should I use? Does it matter?
I recommend leaded solder. 60/40 or 63/37 is fine. I personally recommend the brand Kester. I tried other off brands and they just weren't as quality. Apparently quality does matter with solder I found out. But that's not to say you can't make the other stuff work.
I have a left jot stick that scrolls up or down on its own. Could I just replace the potentiometer only? Or do I need the whole thing
Yes, you should be fine just replacing the potentiometer.
I tried this an it didn't work sadly slight pull back makes it walk back wards on its own
Help: I fixed my controller months ago and my rb button wasn’t working, so it took the controller apart and the point, where you solder it too, broke off and I can’t figure how to connect the wire again
Are you talking about the rumble pack wires?