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For sure, and it can just be a nice skillset to have even if just for a hobby. Good luck on your venture if you decide to go through with it!

Nice!

I can't see how that could happen, but I'm not as versed in the electronic composition of xbox controllers as others. I would first check in the accessories app to make sure RT is set to RT (if it's an elite controller).

I'd also check in-game setting as well if you're only experiencing that in a specific game.

Oh man, sorry to hear about the struggles. Saying it was drilled into it sent shivers down my spine lol 😅 Glad it worked out in the end though!

Yep! Good luck.

@@SOSSGAMING thank you , i have a spare xbox 360 wired controller and i gonna use it to fix the x360 wireless one , both of them have a huge drift on the left analog that's why i asked.

@@gorytarrafa Great! Be careful with the heating of the solder. The pads on the 360 controllers lift somewhat easily if too much heat for too long is applied. Best of luck

@@SOSSGAMINGyeah i will probably need to get a new soldering iron , mine is ancient and the only tip i have is too big for that probably. Thank you for the warning, i will do my best to fix it since i like the x360 controller a lot and even those are expensive were i live.

Yep!

The procedure is essentially the same yep! The only thing different will be the teardown procedure and the joystick itself.

Are you talking about the rumble pack wires?

Sorry about that. I'm not actually sure the physical differences (other than some obvious visual ones), but the "upgrade" comes from the fact these replacements are the same switched that all other xbox controllers use. Which are tried and true for the most part. There is an obvious lesser quality of the ones they put in the Elite Series 2's.

I use about 350C / 650F on these boards and just a normal cone tip. Not sure what it's called

if u never soldered before like me, make sure you use enough solder tin. It will make sure it melts and come loose

Did you do the manual calibration? It may be that there is too much physical resistance between the potentiometer and the wiper. Which means it may need to be adjusted again. Are you testing on the hardwaretester.com to see how it's reacting?

@SOSSGAMING no it did it itself but another thing I saw is that it kinda like starts like jiggling but it doesn't drift it only sometimes does it

@@brayan-qg4zi Did you install hall effect sticks? I've heard those will do that.

@SOSSGAMING no there like shakey I do you know a fix

@@brayan-qg4zi Do you notice any small diode or capacitor missing? Which joysticks did you install? Was the left joystick also replaced and it's working fine? Have you tried replacing just one of the potentiometers with a known working one?

Nice! Great job.

This solder is really difficult because it is lead-free solder :/ If you haven't, try adding some 60/40 solder to it to soften it up.

The range is significantly less on xbox joysticks, so PS4/5 joysticks are the way to go. Although, I just learned about Python calibration here: dualshock-tools.github.io/. Supposedly this can calibrate the range as well as the centering. I haven't tested it, so no guarantee. Use at your own risk if you wanted to try.

So in theory, with that calibration, you could use xbox joysticks.

Awesome thanks for the comment! Hope the install goes/went well.

Hmm, I would make sure it's really cleaned well with isopropyl alcohol. Sometimes the flux can cause that to happen. Does there appear to be any damage to the board around the button area? It's also possible one of the small diodes fell off after heating the area. Does it look like a small diode is missing?

Yes, and it's even easier! No manual calibration required, just swap the joystick and/or potentiometer, then calibrate in the accessories app.

😅

While I haven't done it myself, others have commented they have done it successfully.

Fortunately the new X/S models don't require manual calibration (calibration can be done in the accessories app) so progress is being made! But yeah, soldering still required lol

@@SOSSGAMING Could you make a new video for ps5 controllers? theres a new callibration website made by people to callibrate it!

@@KenzyK27 I've been meaning to for a long time lol mind sharing the website?

Unfortunately there's always some variance to the potentiometers themselves. The values change slightly depending on the imperfect resistance of the amount of carbon added during the manufacturing (I'm guessing) however if you were to leave the potentiometers in (assuming they're in good condition still), then just changing the joystick part will likely lead to no need of calibration. Hope that makes sense lol

Hey there. I'm not sure I understand correctly. Do you already have a jump wire to TP103? If not, I would recommend trying it. You can also jump the AN+ pin on the joystick to another AN+ pin of a joystick that is not damaged. Hope that makes sense.

​@@SOSSGAMING yes its not damage but when i wire it the controller not working 😁😁TP103 is rly bad for jumper wire , sry my eng is bad , i mean right analog , the left analog is ez to fix but the right one needs more works bec idk where is the trace location its not just TP103 , im not gonna wire any TP i need the trace location i know its under the analog but idk where

@@SOSSGAMING yes i understand very well but when i use jumper wire on another AN the controller controller not working 😁😁 the other AN not damage

@@giovannigiorgio2262 Hmm interesting. What are the symptoms of the controller before jumping the wire, and after trying to jump the wire?

@@SOSSGAMING i fixed , i found out the problem potentiometer i desolder it and solder new one and its work just fine , TP is good but its risky this is why i use wire from AN to AN + U have to know what analog i use its hall effect from AliExpress u can buy for 1-2$ the firs generation now they have third generation , ty for help but last question is the board start overheated after i solder hall effect the board with USB one not the analog one idk why , its overrated around D-PAD area btw boards overheated same area , one stop working and other work but i can feel the heat , can u tell me what is the problem ?

It's the wearing of the carbon that causes the potentiometer related stickdrift. If you're referring to the hall-effect sensor joysticks, yes, you can replace the joystick with them (from what others have told me). However, they aren't as accurate and you also aren't able to calibrate them with the software on the accessories app (it will ruin the calibration at the moment). As for the model, I don't know the specific model you're looking for, but actually a lot of the Chinese ones are what you're looking for. If they say they are "original" it's a good bet. Hope this helps, good luck.

@@SOSSGAMING thanks, pal. as addition to your video i can add about calibration: did you heared about so called 'calibration boards' for Xbox/Sony gamepads? i've purchased two (one per stick). this should help to avoid manual adjustment of the stick centering (that sick hard process depicted in your video 😁). all you need is to install em then use a screwdriver to adjust the axis controlling knob for centering

@@super-six-four Yes I've heard about them, and installed them before. They are good, but they do lower the range a little, which may make it so you don't receive 100% in all directions. I would recommend using PS4 potentiometers (but use the Xbox joystick base) if you do use them, because they have a higher range. Also, with the S/X model controllers, you can just go to the accessories app to calibrate them. No manual calibration or calibration boards required.

@@SOSSGAMING I've purchased top range resistance boards (black colored if that tell you something )😁 will check soon if they're good. unfortunately Windows doesn't allow to calibrate gamepad (though it has an old calibration applet), only Xbox 😡 and i have a gamepad with revision 1708. anyway, i'll write here later how it would be... does it worth to use em in repairing

@@super-six-four sounds good. good luck!

Thanks for the comment! Great job on the repair. Hopefully you were able to solder back on the rumble pack cable.

@@SOSSGAMING I didn't at first because I was lazy and there wasn't any metal visible where it snapped. But yeah after my ocd kept clawing at me I ended up fixing it lol

@@cbrngrz6966 Awesome :)

Yes, it's likely a damaged though-hole pad. If you can identify which one(s) it is, you can jump a wire from the joystick pin to a point on the board. Here's a write-up I did: sossgaming.com/xbox-joystick-jump-wire/

Hope that helps, good luck.

@@SOSSGAMING Thanks a bunch! :)

Not sure what you mean by 100 percent accurate, but no deadzone means once you move the joystick, it provides feedback to the console/computer. With deadzone, no feedback will be provided up to the given value of the deadzone. Hope that makes sense.

Gamepass tester won’t pick up my Xbox 1 og controller?

@@arielguzman9336 Hmm. Maybe try the other xbox application instead.

Sounds like the connection between the joystick pin and the board is bad. This is usually caused by a damaged through hole. Here is a guide to how to "repair" it with a jump wire: sossgaming.com/xbox-joystick-jump-wire/

@@SOSSGAMING is there a way can kill the analog u know like remove chipset or something , one analog is fine it can work on street fighter 😁😁 ty for guide

@@SOSSGAMING about the jumper wire u mean solder all to another analog??

@@giovannigiorgio2262 Sorry, I'm not sure what you're asking. The diagrams should explain what I mean. Let me know if they don't make sense.

@@SOSSGAMING i mean the first analog is working like tell i u , so i dont have to use the wire or jumper on working one trace

The part that hold the shaft? If it effects the movement and gameplay and you want it better, yes, absolutely.

Thanks! This will become obsolete soon, thankfully, because Microsoft now has software to calibrate controllers (on the S/X) and integrated software on the Elite Series 2. So all new controllers won't need manual calibration. Pretty rad.

@@SOSSGAMING Nice.

Yes, quite similar!

@@SOSSGAMING thank you very much!

At a shop, not sure. But I offer this as a mail-in service. sossgaming.com/product/xbox-one-controller-lb-rb-repair/ or www.ebay.com/itm/326091160785

@@SOSSGAMING YES BRO THANK YOU . This is literally my 5th elites series 2 and it’s ALWAYS one of these cheap bumpers to go out .

@@lonebalpha Yeah it's a known problem. I'd be happy to provide that service to you and fix it for you. Let me know

@@SOSSGAMING Ill place the order

about 650f (350c)

about 650f (350c)

Yeah. I'd first double check the solder connections on the left joystick x-axis potentiometer. Make sure there's no bridge between posts, and also that there is connection: solder on the pin and on the board. Second, I'd clean up the area really well with isopropyl alcohol. Third, I'd open up the potentiometer and make sure the wiper is facing the correct direction (metal part towards the potentiometer side with the carbon wheel).

If it appears one of the through hole pads is damaged, you can run a jump wire. As shown here: sossgaming.com/model-1797-elite-series-2/

It's possible the new wiper shows worse drift. But it's also most likely the potentiometer has run it's course. There is carbon inside that wears down over time. Simply replacing the potentiometer should fix it. You can switch with a PS4 one even, then calibrate after.

Dang I'm sorry to hear about that :/ What part is broken?

Yeah it can be a PITA sometimes. Have you tried heating it up a little?

I sell the whole joysticks or the potentiometers, but not just the wipers unfortunately.

I would say yes but just be a little careful/gentle if you're worried :)