How to Replace Xbox One Controller Analog Joystick - Fix Stick Drift & More
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ย. 2024
- Upgraded Xbox One Joystick Replacement Kit:
On Amazon: amzn.to/2KgYP0e
On Website: sossgaming.com...
Tired of having a non-working controller because the joystick isn’t functioning correctly? Replacing your analog stick will fix and repair many joystick issues and problems including but not limited to: stick drift, creeping, stuttering, blind spots, dead zones, no click, non-centered, broken, and loose joysticks. This method for replacing your joystick will fix these issues on Regular, S, and Elite model Xbox One Controllers. In this video you will learn how to test your controller, take the controller apart, remove the analog joystick, install and replace the joystick with soldering iron, use a multi-meter to measure the potentiometers, and manually calibrate the joystick.
Free (sometimes) Harbor Freight Multimeter Coupon: www.hfqpdb.com...
Joystick Potentiometer Values Sheet: drive.google.c...
HTML5 Gamepad Tester Results Sheet: drive.google.c...
Tools (Pictured)
Weller WES51 Soldering Iron (newest model): amzn.to/3gYUHNr (discontinued)
Harbor Freight Multimeter: amzn.to/3g0d9E8
Soldapullt: amzn.to/3fZjU9a
Kester 60/40 Solder: amzn.to/3kMcQjZ
Sra Rosin Paste Flux: amzn.to/3arFJNC
QuadHands Soldering Vice: amzn.to/2E6IHeg
Micro Cutter: amzn.to/3g28PEq
Southbend Pliers: amzn.to/2PUuxQ9
Wick: amzn.to/3h3xBFC
Searchable Keywords: Xbox One Controller Joystick Potentiometer Alps Sensor Replace Fix Repair Install Replacement Open Remove Stick Drift Broken Loose Creeping Stuttering Blind Spots no Click Not Clicking Solder
DISCLAIMER: Some of the links on this channel are affiliate links which means by clicking on them and purchasing the items I get a small commission.
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New Kit link is in the description which now includes 6 total joysticks and some tools.
NEW METHOD: Check out another way to manually calibrate (much easier IMO): th-cam.com/video/Uoxz0oHX9TE/w-d-xo.html
Thank you ☮️💜☮️
@SOSS GAMING, where's the repair service link?
@@christiandoyle578 It's gone unfortunately I don't do any repairs anymore, sorry. If you type in "xbox controller repair service" in ebay's search bar you can find some sellers that still provide this service.
@@SOSSGAMING ahhh bollocks.
@@SOSSGAMING I can't find any Xbox 360 replacement sticks. Will these work for it?
This dude deserves an award for this video 😲
ABSOLUTELY !
Really 😲
After watching this, I now realize paying for a new controller is not so bad. No way am I going through all this trouble. I was hoping for a "plug-n-play" potentiometer with an auto-calibration. Your video is top-notch, but too much effort for me. Good job!
If you just have stick drift, you can get away with just replacing the potentiometer. My "newest method" video shows how you can even calibrate it without math or measurements, which may not even be necessary. Don't give up lol
Electronic hobbyist here, do micro soldering on Mac circuit boards. Noticed that the melt point of the factory solder is much higher than the 60/40 I use on Macs and much higher than the standard melt point of 360 .. . 650 - 700 degrees does get this job done for removal, using 60/40 to resolder seemed fine. Thanks for the tutorial.
I had Xbox One Stick Drift, before buying a new set of Alps Analog sticks I salvaged one controller out of the two utilizing above method and it worked. Then I ordered a 6 pack from Soss Gaming on ebay, it was so well packed, came quickly, were genuine Alps keys. I replaced both the joy sticks on the second controller and did not go through the fine tuning process (in my opinion not worth the time unless you are way off). Checked the controller using htmlgamepad website, Joy sticks were 99.99% centered without the manual sheet calibration referenced in the video. Be sure you have intermediate solder skills and a good iron (Weller/Haako), I did not have to cut the sticks as shown as I have a solder vacuum suction pump which sufficed and there was no pressure required to pull old joystick that came out like butter. There are 14 solder points so can be daunting if you are holding a soldering iron the first time for first time, It requires precision and dexterity and common sense as is not hard.
Awesome! So glad it worked out that well for you. Thanks for sharing
😂😂😂 I like the video but this guy had me f’d up. All these tools 😂😂😂
I just need to send you my controller 🎮
Haha yeah technically not everything is necessary but they do make things easier. Lots of people on eBay are offering joystick repairs so luckily there are others willing to do it for ya. Cheers.
I almost turned the video off when I saw all them tools, like yup this controller is trash 😂
@@SOSSGAMING if I were to not swap out the controller joy stick but instead only replace the spring inside it and put it back in would I need to calibrate it ? Thanks !
@@colebertram8482 In that case no, you shouldn't need to :)
@@SOSSGAMING thank you I’ve been holding off doing this because I don’t have the kit to calibrate . My joysticks are stock and are perfect condition but I was looking to use a different spring for a different tension.
I am not ready to do this yet (more tools then I want to get right now), but wow, the video tutorial was easy to follow and well done.
U can buy a cheap kit on Amazon for like 25€
I literally had no intention of actually doing something so technical but wow good video I dare say even entertaining
They goin be real mad when that class action lawsuit goes through for stuck drift
Yes im disgusted by this stick drift
Kayboards they can it’s a non acknowledged problem just like how apple throttled iPhones
Kayboards actually yes you can your selling a “premium” product without the premium durability it’s quite simple
Man talk about underrated. As much as a lot of people don’t know how to manipulate the inside of a controller, it still doesn’t give a proper excuse on why you don’t deserve hundreds of thousands of subscribers. Thank you
These videos are awesome. For ignorant people like myself, it would be super helpful if you added temperatures you are soldering at and maybe going a little more in depth on the "whys" when you're desoldering, soldering, adding paste, etc. Can't say enough how good the videos are and thank you for doing this
It's so shitty that Microsoft and other companies don't let you fix your own products. If we had access to their software and things weren't so convoluted, I'd be a happier customer and loyal one too.
The only upside to this is it could teach people something new about electronics. Vote for right to repair if you ever see it pop up.
Definitely! Well said.
sad most of controllers go to trash, i mean not everyone could repair this, wish they could design it on more easy to fix
Best tutorial for elite controller stick replacing I've found yet definitely replacing mine through this tutorial
I would just like to say thank you. I watched your video, got the bits I needed and re watched as I followed what I needed to do. My Xbox Design Lab controller now works a dream, no more stick drift! I well chuffed, thank you! 😀
Dude thaaaaanks so much my left stick kept drifting and I knew I Could replace it but didn't know how thanks so much dude
This was the best tutorial on how to do this, holy shit, it was 3 years ago and its better than anything else i have seen that came after, may you have money raining into your bank account man!
Thanks! This will become obsolete soon, thankfully, because Microsoft now has software to calibrate controllers (on the S/X) and integrated software on the Elite Series 2. So all new controllers won't need manual calibration. Pretty rad.
@@SOSSGAMING Nice.
Rip controller he died on 2021 February 6, 5:16pm you have stayed by my side for 3 years and stayed loyal all the time you may join your othee brother and sisters up there you will be missed
I didn't have a wick neither did I have pliers to take apart the old joystick. I was able to slowly take off the old joystick by applying outward pressure at an angle and heating up pins one by one. Worked out well in the end. Thanks for the video
Way to go! Clever thinking. Glad it worked out for you in the end.
U can just desolder all the pins on back and pull the whole stick he literally made his life harder in the video
Been practicing micro soldering for a few months, I have a Xbox One controller with left joystick drift and I ordered replacements, can’t wait to try this fix 😄
damn!! never seen such really deep technique b4!! so complicated yet so damn amazing job! this man is literally the best , i bet Microsoft technicians do such things !
Thanks - lots of good advice - the breaking down of the joystick would have saved me a bunch of time. The pot calculations and matching were something I had no idea the pot matching needed to be done.
It's the first way I figured out how to calibrate. If you watch the "newer" video I show another method (without switching pots, for the most part). Also, if you have a series x/s now they have a built in auto calibration!
@@SOSSGAMING thanks yes I watched the newer video looks like a good way to do it. but I did not quite understand why you didn't preselect / match the pots and click them onto the stick from the start before soldering them. Good to know about series x but I am still running one x and 360 ... the resistance readings will help me out. I actually did the pair on one x original - the tolerances were .16 and .26 which did not initially show until you showed me the tolerance adjuster on controller tester. Seems ok on rocket league but after that who know may have drift.
@@simoncossettini9680 Great! Simply it's because it takes more work doing it that way, and with the "new method" it's not necessary. Happy gaming!
Wow, this is the very best video I have seen on how to remove these little bastards. Thank you!
Great explanation! Very easy to follow for a pretty complex subject. Thank you!
Thank u so much ! An no doubt this is the best one out there.. My boys an I go through so many controllers cause of stick drift.. There’s no doubt in my mind with your video I can repair all of them .. Thanks again..
I just had two Xbox base controllers repaired. Turn around time was less than a week and I had the affected components replaced. I can't recommend strongly enough this service if you're controllers are giving you problems!
That’s what what I’d like to hear
@@Tarikmoe The guy running this TH-cam channel does a repair service through the link in the description. That's what I was referring to if I didn't make that clear enough. Well worth it in my opinion.
Josh Bryan I knew what you meant. I was commenting on how well he does his job and I was agreeing with you. I am trying to ask him some questions on how I should proceed thru ebay. Waiting on his answer.
@@Tarikmoe yes, I corresponded with him through eBay for the offer when you subscribe to his channel. I found him to be proactive and the repair was quick and flawless. In fact I prefer the controllers that he repaired to the ones I have not had repaired yet even though they have no drift.
I think it's kind of ridiculous how much the quality dropped in controllers from 360 to xbox one. Issues like these are way too common. Well made video, though. Seems very manageable even for someone with novice soldering skills.
i have five controllers that ended up with stick drift. i called Microsoft and they wanted almost the same price as a new controller to fix the controller. there should be a class action lawsuit for this crap.
@@machoman2881 there is I seen somewhere they are being sued. Something with the sensitivity of their potentiometers.
Thank You VERY MUCH for your video! I was searching exaktly the tutorial how to calibrate the poties of the stick. THANK YOU VERY MUCH!
I definitely need more tools than what I have, but the video was very well done very informative. Thank you
Awesome video! Alas, too much work for me, I just bought a new one.
Yoooo just letting you know your video helped me a lot I got super lucky when calibrating wasn’t as hard as I thought it would be thanks man!
I greatly appreciate your explanation as well as your attention to detail...amazing video sir!
I feel I needed to post a review about sossgaming repair service. The quality of work and the expedited return of my controller was nothing short of an outstanding service from this guy. If you’re on the fence of whether you should send yours to be repaired, do it and you won’t be disappointed.
Happy customer.
Thank you!
Welp, hopefully this helps me get extra credit in my MT class for literally fixing my own controller.
Sorry for the question. But what does MT stands for? 🤔
@@mateus.vasconcelos Mechatronics, aka folks who work with robots and machines such as vex robots, a good example is battle bots if you heard of that show.
i watched 5 minutes of this madness,.
Now on my way to the xbox store to buy a new controller
lmao
definitely interested in this new vedio i see your planning on dropping I was switching Joysticks today i put one on it was ok but every once and while when you looked around it would go extremely fast i took that one off then put another one on and had a drift issue i was so confused the Soldier points look good then i came across your video makes sense with the whole Calibration stuff stupied they just don’t give the software out even charge a lot for it just make it available but great vedio will try this definitely look forward to see this new one 🔥😁
good video but tearing appart whole ministick was bad idea, you could just use copper Desoldering Braid wire to clear of old soldering, and detach ministick entirely or just remov potentiometers from sides.
Thanks so much I thought this would be way to hard at first but I have years of soldering experience so I thought why not because I had nothing to loose especially since a new controller costs €60 I got a new soldering kit which came with a solder sucker which is very handy and a must have for soldering and removed all the solder points which was the hardest and most complicated part and then I put on the new one and success this was my first analog stick replacement and I'm so happy this is a common fault with controllers so I'm glad you helped I really can't thank you enough I've been using my controller with severe stick drift for like 5 months until now and it was annoying now I can play my xbox in peace thanks so much I liked and subscribed you really deserve a lot more views likes and subs your so awesome keep up the great work
Always great to hear! Thanks for sharing.
Brilliant idea of cutting up that module so you can manually desolder each pin. What a tragedy though that these official pads have such garbage quality modules and the console settings have no native dead zone adjustments for the stock game pads.
Real good video man. That soldering bit is quite difficult tho.
nicely done! I just finished fixing my broken controllers, I have 5 Xbox controllers and fixed them all......
Well done!
That moment you realize you need to finish an electronic engineering degree to fix a drifting stick
If you have just stick drift, you can just replace the potentiometer causing drift, and if you want to calibrate it, use the method in my latest joystick video "newest method". No measurements or math required. Good luck if you choose to do it!
Informative video. Thnx man.
Great video! Well said and easy to follow. However I don’t have the time to do this. Can you fix mine?
Thanks! I have a link in the description.
Came to see how to fix my controller not to come to your math class🤣
OML let me send you 4 of my controllers mate yoooo Xbox sign this man
Lotta steps but 2 have peace of mind for the future ya cant beat that.
For sure. I've actually found a new method that doesn't require calculations. A new video should be out within a week or two.
@@SOSSGAMING heck yea, yr getting a sub and like from me. Thatl save me more time and $$$$ on tools, thank you!! 💯💯💯
@@haikudragon1002 Well... you'll still need a few tools haha no away around needing to open the controller, desolder the old joystick, and solder on the new one. But, I will be demonstrating with a cheap amazon soldering kit that has all the needed tools (the one I got was $30, some are even cheaper like $15-20), and of course the joystick kit.
The best technique ever....
Holy shit this is WAY more complicated than I thought it would be. Thought you could just desolder the old stick and put in a new one without all this paperwork.
Yo I agree! It's worked for me in the meantime but I've actually found a way that is a lot more simple to get these centered. No calculations or readings required, nor wasting any joysticks. And in most cases you just need any one random joystick! I will be posting the new video by the end of the week hopefully
Nice video, thank you! But I would like to point out that this is the failure of most to understand MSFT considers the controller as "consumable" item. It should not cost $60-$200(elite) but instead be 1/3 that price. I can't imagine in mass, the cost in parts exceeding $14. And why hasn't anyone made an upgrade parts set for these? (hint, cost for that would exceed new controller). I think I go through a controller about one a year (I suspect I'm in the value MSFT estimates of MTBF) and would rather replace the entire joystick mechanism and thumbstick (grip wears off too fast for me). SOSS- any recommended complete stick parts (not just the potentiometers)? Seems a waste of potentiometers to go through to get lucky on resistance number...right?
I actually recommend checking out my latest video. In a lot of cases you don't even need to change potentiometers. Also note that even if a potentiometer doesn't work on a specific joystick on a specific controller, it can still be saved for another joystick/controller in which it may be better suited for.
As for any alternative sticks, I'm not aware of any of more reliable quality, as they all seem to use carbon as the resistive material.
Hey, awesome video. I bought the joysticks from you on ebay, I have the tools, removed everything and all of that, but, I burned the board in a few spots -____-' I think that's why if drifting to one side only when I tested it. Anyway, what is the right temperature for the soldering? and Do i still need to do all of those testing and math to find the right joystick? thanks for the help!!!
Oh no! Hopefully everything is ok. I have noticed that a too high of a temperature can damage some of the through holes and that in turn can cause what you are speaking of. Is the joystick installed while you are testing it? The temperature I use is 650 F. Best is usually between 330°C to 350°C (626°F to 662°F). There is a 1/3 chance any random joystick you put in will be sufficient, so given those odds I would definitely recommend doing the testing/math.
Another tip that I just figured out and will be covering in a new video is that you don't need to solder on a joystick to find out the values on html5gamepad.com. It's a bit difficult to explain without visuals but I will try. You need to have the controller apart and the joystick de-soldered first to do this. Insert any joystick (no need to solder it on or measure it first). There are the 3 metal tabs (that protrude from the motherboard) of each pot. You will want to push these metal tabs inward in the direction of the center of the joystick. I use the small screwdriver. I found if you push them inward till they bend a little bit, they will contact the through hole better. Then go to html5gamepad.com. Plug the controller in. The joystick will be loose. You will need to wiggle/move the whole joystick (I'm referring to the joystick as a whole, not the little stick that protrudes from it) so that you can see each axis' reading that html5gamepad.com gives. Most of the time you will see both axis values 1.0. As you wiggle the joystick around you may notice it moves somewhere center-ish on one of the axis. If you're good enough at moving/wiggling the whole joystick around, you may be able to see both at the same time.
Whether the Microsoft story was true of not it's totally not necessary to do all of this when you can do it without soldering and a lot less tools. You will need a Torx T8 and T6, small flat head screwdriver, tweezers, and a plastic prying tool that's it. You don't even need to take the whole analog off all you have to do is carefully push the sensor housing outward like in the video bend it back so that you access the sensor and pull it out with a pair of tweezers and replace the sensor it's that simple. He was pretty much done at 6:47
Thankyou for this video
Very nice video, congratulations.
interesting, but i cant allow myself to replace and solder the whole joystick... twice, im going to change only the y-axis potenciometer whole, wish me luck it doesnt end up un-centered.
I know you have an updated but this was an absolute treat! Beautifully executed and professional. What is the table top material you use?
Stellar thanks!
Thank you! It's literally a $40 Home Depot foldable table lol
@@SOSSGAMING hi . Can I replace a broken analog with one from another controller? Thanks.
@@alexstefan8418 Yep, absolutely!
@@SOSSGAMING thank you very much
Super informative, excellent detail. This caliber of video work is literally the pinnacle of TH-cam's usefulness. Thank you. Is the plan still November as far as opening shop back up for this service?
Thank you! Check out the latest video if you want to see a little "simpler" method. Opening around Nov. is still the plan for now.
This method worked for me very well i was able to fix stickdrift that two of my controllers had. Measuring the pots, were a pain but is necessary to get an accurate reading. I noticed that if u were measuring the same pot in the same axis, and were getting a wide range of diff values it is either due to a bad pot or wat i did was use the pot on a different stickbox and then remeasured(i dont know why this worked but it did for me). Another tip to remove the stickbox without actually damaging it was i used a soldering pot. it is much easier than trying to use a solder wick or solder pump to remove it. Heres a video showing how to remove with a solder pot th-cam.com/video/DPk4aJh1NhA/w-d-xo.html hope my experience helps others
Excellent work and thank you!
Yeah! Good video bro, you gave perfect details and I may try this with my controller! I'm not sure if I can solder or not tho 🤔
Thanks! It can be intimidating at first but I'm sure you can do it. I have a new video if you'd like to check out the newest method :)
really nice video thanks alot your truly put alot of effort into this following your guide i removed the analog stick no problem i had really bad one so went to remove that to add another and doing so i removed one of the soldier pads any ideas how i can fix this like replacement pads ?
So unfortunately that repair is difficult, but depending which pad it was it may be possible to reroute the pin associated with that pad to a different part of the motherboard with a wire (like a strand of wire from speaker wire). If you go to acidmods.com and post in the xbox section with a picture of which pad was damaged they might be able to help you out.
Can u make a video on how to remove just the sensor housing and not the whole joystick
I actually do plan on that soon. And by soon that means a month or two, or three. If you check out the latest video I think it shows enough to figure out how to just remove and put in one pot. I hope.
What temp do you run your solder gun at? I just destroyed 3 mother boards 😅. Thankfully, after watching your video I found where I went wrong
Oh no! I use mine at 650 degrees.
SOSS GAMING its all good! I gotta destroy stuff to learn lol. I have a bad habit of jumping in before reading directions
@@tristenjones845 lol I hear ya!
U deserves more subs 👍👍👍
That potentiometer part is ridiculously complicated, why isn't the new stick work out of the box? I've never seen these types before.
Are all pro controllers soldered the same? Because no matter the temp or how long I hold the iron to the points they do not want to come off? It looks solid and never turns to liquid to pull out the pins. Any suggestions would be great. Awesome and very clear video btw.
Yes, so first suggestion is either putting flux on the solder and/or adding more solder of your own. Over time the old solder points can become oxidized and lose the little flux they may have had in it previously. As you mentioned as well temperature is an issue. The tip of the iron should also be free from oxidation. If you're able to melt your own solder on the tip of the iron that would indicate it's hot enough. Hope this helps.
If its lead-free solder (which I suspect), it requires a soldering iron/station that can handle this. Which then costs more than two new controllers so...
Great tutorial! Just the info i needed!
Question though: Why not just remove the pots and leave the joystick on the pcb, then use a different joystick for measuring the other pots? This would then result in only 6 solderpoints afterwards. Or does a different joystick introduce too big a difference in values that would nulify this method?
In my experience different joysticks do indeed have varying measurements even when using the same potentiometers between both. I do have a new video out that shows a different (easier?) approach to calibrating the pots if you're interested!
So I can either do all these calculations or just skip it and solder it on right away and hopefully turn out lucky with good calibration?
Yep! Well, acceptable centering anyway. In my experience between 25-50% chance. If you get the joystick pre-centered (Each axis resistance value close-ish to zero) the chance will be a little better.
Thanks, I just fix mine
Yo my controller doesn’t have drift, but when I go forward it just doesn’t work or I slowly walk when I’m supposed to run, do you know why this happens ?
Sounds like it's a faulty joystick. If you plug the controller into your computer and go to html5gamepad.com, do you notice the same thing when moving the joystick around?
ChargeSZN same with mine. So frustrating
Maybe some day when if I get famous, I’ll give you a shoutout
You got an entire table of professional tools, but can't be bothered to grab tweezers to hold the wires while soldering. 😂
I think this is an exception because I have more control with the wire this way, but maybe I actually need better tweezers lol
Great Vid! Thanks.
Great video man and I appreciate ur repair service. But I have a question.do you fix elite series 2 controlers? And if so I’m more then willing to to have you repair my controler for me lad😎👍🏻
Thanks! Yes if it is just stick drift I can repair the elite 2's.
Ok Thank you kind sir👍🏻🙏🏼
Can you buy better potentiometers? Instead of perpetually sticking in ones that are going to fail quickly?
That's the dream :/
I'm stuck on step around 8:12 of video, removing pins using pliers and soldering iron. When pulling some pins out, I accidentally broke off a part of the pin while pulling it out with pliers. A portion of the pin is still in the hole and I have no place to grab onto it, any advice?
Thank you for the video!
Yes absolutely. I've had this happen before as well, when I cut too close and the pin is too short to grab onto. What I do in this situation is heat the solder back up like normal and push the piece out more with the solder tip itself. If you're lucky it will all come out, or it should be enough to grab onto again. Adding more solder may help when doing this. If it's still a struggle, perhaps you still might be able to get the excess solder with the solder sucker or wick.
Gotcha, I appreciate all your time and help.
@@oscar45833 No prob!
@@oscar45833 add more solder, heat it, make sure all the solder is molten and use the solder sucker, it will pull the pin right out
Hi, thanks for your video. Could you clarify why you chose the two pots 0.08 and 0.11?
I haven't used this method in quite some time (check out newest method), but if I'm remembering correctly it's because they are the closest measurements to the "diff to center" calculation earlier.
Hi there, more than two years later thanks for the video! It sucks that this is still a problem on expensive modern controllers.
I've been working on fixing a DualSense controller (same joystick part, same potentiometer problems) but after the last joystick swap, the controller reports that it's pointing all the way to the upper-left as if there was no joystick installed at all. Have I potentially lifted the pads or screwed something up along the way?
Thanks!
The dualsense controllers are quite more durable, so lifting a pad isn't as common, but still possible. If it wasn't having this issue before the install, only thing I can think of is a small capacitor or transistor or whatever you call them is either damage or fell off. Or maybe the board is scratched (damaging an internal wire).
One other thing to double check before that though, is if the wheels in the pots in the right direction. If they're upside down, they will show that same issue.
@@SOSSGAMING Thanks for the feedback, I'll continue investigating!
Do u need a soldering iron
Indeed!
dose anyone knows why Stick drift occurs? am I pushing too hard on the controller? Outstanding tutorial btw!!!
Thank you! Unfortunately it's mostly just a wear and tear thing. Sometimes it's simply from buildup of dust and grime or a sticky joystick, but more often I believe is that the carbon in the potentiometers wear down from use over time. When this happens it throws off the resistances which ultimately lead to the stick drift we are all too familiar with. It's also usually why stick drift most often occurs on the left analog stick drifting upward. This is from moving forward so much in first person shooter and other such games. Simple wear and tear.
@@SOSSGAMING Thanks for the information Man! I also didn't know that Microsoft calibrates each thumbstick individually explains why my attempts at cannibalizing parts from other controllers didn't work
@@thelovableprotagonist5574 No problem! Yes I know what you mean, I did the same thing and was so frustrated that the joystick was off center after multiple attempts. I was losing my mind. Took a long time to figure out what was going on and finally after many successful joystick fixes I was confident what was going on. This information isn't anywhere else oddly enough!
Do you think taking out the replacement from another original xbox controller I have arround not working for other reasons might give better chance of working first try?
I've already tried to change the little sensor inside but I still have problems. Thanks! Amazing video 😁
No, unfortunately it would be given the same odds. However, if you know which axis is causing the problems you might be able to get away with just switching one of the potentiometers from the other joystick.
@@SOSSGAMING thanks, I've already did it and for a week it worked just fine mut than it started to have the same problem. Is like if the stick takes only 10% of the input I give it. That's happen only on the right stick going up. I might learn to do some calculations!
@@matteci If you replaced the whole potentiometer (the green square piece and the black round wheel inside it) then yeah, looks like you will need to change the joystick. You can definitely just try the other controller's joystick. Best of luck!
in most cases its only those green pots that need to be replaced not the whole thing
Very true! That's only if dealing with the drift issue though. This was just a demonstration how to replace the whole thing (if needed). Thanks for watching and commenting!
what's the ideal and safest solder temperature to solder the analog legs?
I use a temperature of 650*F with no issues.
I have replaced one of htis joysticks of my controller that was drifting away and now it does not have the fine sensibility anymore, after watching this video I realized what the problem might be, there are different types of joystics and they have the calibration thing... I think I'll have to do it again.
I didnt calibrate but I did everything when I use it it only works to move left and right but not up and down. Do u know maybe any reasons why this could be?
Oh no! Yes, 3 possibilities that I can think of: Damaged wiper, solder connections touching, or most likely that a through hole was damaged.
will i need to recalibrate the sensors if im only changing the little sensor wheels inside the green housing and not actually desoldering or taking apart any of the insides?
and if so how do i do it without soldering or any special tools (i do have that red meter box thing tho if needed)
If that's all that's needed then no, you shouldn't need to do any calibration. You will only need the tools to open the controller: t8 security torx, t6 torx, and a screwdriver or something to pry off the handles, and a small screwdriver or something to open the potentiometer
Is the same for the Elite Series 2? Thanks!
Fortunately Elite Series 2 controllers auto-calibrate. Meaning you can just start playing the game normally and it will calibrate within 5-30 minutes or something like that. Pretty cool
Can I get that white part inside potentiometer alone for purchase?
I sell the whole joysticks or the potentiometers, but not just the wipers unfortunately.
Bruuuh I just got my controller and it’s already broken so I thought I could just watch this to replace the joystick but nope F
Wow amazing video . Only one on here that’s explains and does this. Had major problems with dead zones when replacing analog sticks, the odd time got lucky and the stick worked right off the bat, the deadzone being not centre,some games it affects, ie rainbow six, robloks, fortnite usually causing the avitar to walk forward, stargaze or drift. If you cannot change the deadzone in the game you have had it. All these people doing analog stick repairs but I bet they are not checking the deadzones. Doesn’t affect games like fifa, call of duty but really is a pain in certain games if the deadzone is not as near to centre. These parts you get from China are nearly always way out . I’ll be trying your system later today. Thank you for the vid
Thank you so much! Yes, it took quite some time to figure this out (by myself). Equations and everything. And it's nowhere to be found on the internet anywhere that I'm aware of which boggles my mind. I don't know how many frustrated days I spent trying to figure this out before I realized that each joystick is software calibrated differently from the factory based on the exact original joystick put in. I really wish Microsoft would offer that calibration software to us like other 3rd party manufacturers do with their controllers. But we all know why they don't. So, we are stuck with this silly method lol
SOSS GAMING well done on your time, effort and patience. All the analog sticks are out usually, some more than others.ive been using model RKJXV1224005 ALPS Multi-Directional Switches, which are supposed to be great, deadzones miles out, had more luck with the ones off alibaba. Everyone who puts youtube vids out there replacing sticks just see it working when they go on the home screen on Xbox the basic app which shows it centre, but when you switch to deadzone settings this tells the story, and how in some games it will be a big problem
@@ebayselling1576 Yeah I know the struggle! I too fell victim to the xbox app until I found out about html5gamepad.com which like you said tells the true story. Thanks for chiming in!
SOSS GAMING 3 controllers that I paid £15 each, with deadzone problems after I had replacing the analog sticks. All 3 now fully fixed and resold for £30 using your video/system, just testing then switching the 3pin sensors from the other 30 odd analog sticks I purchased in bulk some time ago. Thank you once again. Great work!
@@ebayselling1576 Awesome! Thanks for the update. That's great to hear. Well done.
Same problem with ps4 controller. The sticks and potentiometer looks the same. Can this work with ps4 controller also? And do you have more details on the potentiometer it self? The black stuff inside, how it work and something like this?
Yep, it is essentially the same procedure. The black stuff inside is carbon and it is used as the resistive material. The wearing down of the carbon by the wiper is the typical cause for drift.
where are you getting 2 pairs of measurements for each wiper @ 14:50? are you trying every pot on both axis?
Yes, exactly! On both axis. I am however working on a new video right now about a new method that doesn't require any measurements or calculations. It should be done by the end of the week.
What is the tool you use to cut the housing? Nothing i had could cut through that thing
It's called a micro cutter, but a wire cutter should also work.
@@SOSSGAMING thanks for the quick response! Off to the store
I got my controller straight from Microsoft brand new and 3 months and a half later it started to drift hard I’m wondering if Im just unlucky or everyone’s controllers don’t last long also
godly, u saved my life! 🤙🏻😁
now i can fix my joystick easy! 👊🏼😎
u got one more subs☺️
Easy? Requires soldering and equipment D:
First video I've found that gives the tip to pretty much destroy the fault joystick to more easily remove it. That's the main reason I've been hesitant to invest in the soldering kit to do this. Seems a lot of ppl have trouble with that step. However, you then make up for that by having to do it twice!!. I haven't read about these values being off until I found your video. I've already deconstructed my sons controller to the point of actually cleaning those black rings in the potentiometer. Your Amazon link shows currently unavailable but I seen in another comment you would set up an ebay link. Curious why you can do an ebay link for the product but not have them on Amazon..strange.
Thank you for the comment! They're in stock now: amzn.to/2vWwm8s
The reason I made an eBay link is because I have the parts to sell and ship myself, but was currently in the process of getting them all packaged and sent off to Amazon in bulk, and once shipped, it takes Amazon nearly a month to have them available!
@@SOSSGAMING That would be great, actually. I'll take an ebay link I don't want to invest in a soldering station as expensive (not that expensive but for me for this it is) but is there like a minimum heating ability you'd recommend? Like, it needs to be able to get up to "X" temp?
@@rsxfreak03
I haven't tried this with a different soldering iron than the one shown in the vid, but I don't see why any cheaper but good soldering iron wouldn't work. The recommended temperature for soldering is usually between 626-662F (330-350C). I set mine at 650.
SOSS GAMING would it just not be as easy to desolder the analog stick as a whole rather than taking it apart and destroying it? I know they are only cheap but they seem to come off easy enough? although I did have a nightmare getting an elite analog stick off even using hot air gun as well. I’ve only done about 7 analog replacements so I’m new to it, as well as using a soldering station
So what do you do if the controller doesn't register the new joystick? All other buttons work but the left joy that I had to replace. Any tips?
Sounds to me like some of the pads on the board were lifted/damaged. Can you tell if all the solder connections look fine?
Is soldering the only way to replace the joystick?
Yes unfortunately it is.
I've got an issue where the white part of the joystick mechanism has broken, do I only need to replace it once?
With this method, any joystick replacement will most often times require a second replacement. One is needed to measure and calculate, and the second one that matches those measurements and calculations. You might also get lucky with the first joystick though, so in that case it would only be once.
Anyway, I would hold off just a little bit because I have a new video coming out hopefully by tomorrow, or early next week at the latest with a new method where you do only use one joystick. Stay tuned!
After replacing lots of these potenciometers, do you feel like the controllers fail because of faulty pots, or is it dirt between the clicking mechanism and the bottom end of the stick? I threw in some handy oil into my controller that had a sticky stick, and it greatly reduced the amount of stickdrift. Making me think its not the pots, it's just gunk in the movement mechanism
Pot readout would be glitchy if the pots were malfunctioning right?
Almost all the controllers I received were the fault of the wear of the carbon in the pots, so nothing short of replacement would help. Only a handful of times it was other issues other than the pot. But I did have a couple where it was gunk buildup on the thumbstick/dome piece (causing it to stick a little) as it seems you had. You are correct, the readout would be having issues if the pot was malfunctioning.
What do i do if i didnt leave the plastic parts on to help pull the plugs out? I have like half the posts out but i cant seem to get the other half to heat up and pull out of the holes in the motherboard. Its super frustrating