I am testing some Hall Effect/TMR calibrations that were done NOT with these calibration boards, but with a pre-release version of an Xbox system update that added Elite Series 2 compatibility to the Accessories App Calibration. Results are good so far, so maybe soon we won't have a need for those boards anymore! 🤞🤞
Apparently, the application that Xbox launched to calibrate its joysticks is not compatible with magnetic joysticks, it does not detect them, and after performing the calibration they work worse than before. Have you tested the operation of this Xbox application to calibrate the joysticks, both with original joysticks and magnetic joysticks? Greetings!
@@danii1623 yes I've had both successes and failures using hall effects. It's risky because the app has bricked controllers of mine before... But the most recent 2 I did are working perfectly.
Nice video, nice to see how this actually works. I will be sending my Elite Series 2 in soon for this mod and a couple more, thank you for giving new life to my controller that lasted all of 3 months, that will likely now last for years.
Thank you for this video. It answers a lot of questions that I had because you must be the only one to have really made a video on the installation of hall effects on an Elite 2. There are others but they systematically replaced the tension sticks adjustable by classic sticks which means that it was impossible for me to know if the magnetic part which allows changing the caps was causing interference which was until now my main question and concern. The fact that there really is such a fine material that acts as a magnetic shield encourages me a lot because I couldn't figure out if the ones I found were just a scam or if they really worked. I'm still waiting for some gear ordered on AliExpress to start my experience. I bought Elite 2 sticks sold with the calibration PCBs and I plan to put TMR modules in them (which I'm still waiting for) but all on a classic Series S/X controller (even if it means having to change the sticks, as much in take with more options). The TMRs theoretically have no interference with the controller triggers (compared to hall effects) and I am thinking of trying without the PCB. The fact that this is a regular controller without the magnets that you hide behind a magnetic shield saves me from having to worry about that. I just hope I don't have to buy any to stick some on the magnets in the cap.
@@thesilencer8074 I just did a controller just like that! Adjustable Tension Hall effects with TMR sensors on a Series X/S controller. I rolled the dice and used the App for calibration (it's randomly completely bricked controllers before) and luckily this time it turned out perfectly! Good luck on your project!
Do you accept custom orders? My Elite 2 controller recently broke, and I was planning to buy a new one. This time, I’d like to upgrade it with a few features: 1. Hall effect joysticks 2. Clicky hair triggers 3. Back paddle enhancement pads 4. ABXY clicky buttons I also noticed that you replace bumpers and triggers with more durable ones, so I would like that as well.
Hello, I dont get what the calibration board is needed for. Cant i just swap the standart sticks with hall effect sticks and calibrate through the little holes?
the little holes only calibrate the center point, and newer, more accurate hall effects dont have that option. the boards are mainly for calibrating range, ensuring you have full range in all directions as well as the range not going too far outside the circle in diagonals.
Hey there! I have a question, or rather need help 😅 I installed ginfull HE sticks in my Elite v1, manually calibrated them nearly perfectly but... When i install my back paddles, the right stick goes crazy! What gives? Any idea how can i fix that?
@@Ghost_in_the_Hell it's the magnet interference coming from the paddles I would think. I solve this on elite series 2 with MuMetal (info in description) I assume it would work on series 1 as well? May also want to make sure the paddle/magnet isn't actually making contact with one of the pins on the right stick, just a piece of electrical tape covering either the paddles/magnets from the inside, or the solder points of the right stick. If issue persists after the tape, then it's magnetic interference for sure
@@AtomicMike421 by electrical tape you mean the Faraday tape? Also shouldn't the magnets interfere right away after assembling the controller? Why are they going nuts only after mounting the back paddles? 😭😭
@@Ghost_in_the_Hell no electrical tape is just to prevent a short or any pin from the back of the stick module contacting the MuMetal. Not sure why the paddles themselves would change anything aside from maybe slightly altering the magnetic field already coming from the magnets..?
Thanks for fhe video. Im about to get started on my own ginfull v.5 upgrade in a few weeks but wondering where to go to unstand what you were soldering? I noticed you soldered some little resistors which threw me for a loop since i only though you needed to solder the pcb calibration boards to the main board.
@@deebs11218 those little diodes are only needed on Xbox, and should come with the calibration boards. Honestly I wouldn't recommend undertaking this as a first try at soldering, it's a bit more difficult than typical repair/upgrades.
@@AtomicMike421 I appreciate the warning and I've seen enough videos on this to know it isn't for the faint of heart. If I fail, I wont be too broken up about it.
I am currently only using the first alternative with the driver board, but I am having problems with the calibration. I can only get to mode A (Center Point) I can't get to mode B/S at all, what could be the problem? I'm desperate, since then I can't present my work
@@pavogear9190 if you can't get into mode b/s, then it probably has something to do with the soldering on either end of the diode. I would resolder those points, making sure the negative end is soldered to the pin, and positive end is soldered to the board.
After v5 and v51 are installed on the Xbox Series X controller, can I normally update the controller firmware when available and calibrate it from within the Xbox Series X itself? Why did those yellow hall effects cause a bug after calibration?
It's very important that if you go the route of calibration boards, you do NOT attempt calibrating using the Accessories App, as this can cause all kinds of problems with competing calibrations. Also, I have run into situations where the latest firmware caused excess jitter, so may be the case that rolling back firmware is necessary for the most stable performance using the calibration boards. If using Ginful curved magnets or Gulikit TMRs on Series X/S, I recommend NOT using calibration boards and instead using the accessories app to calibrate. If using any other kind of hall effects, then the calibration boards are the way to go.
@@AtomicMike421 Thanks for replying! I installed the v5 and v51 calibration boards on the Xbox Series X/S controller. I installed the hall effects from K-Silver. (It came with the manufacturer's recommended kit v5 and v51). My biggest question for those who installed the v5 and v51 PCBs would be whether they could update the controller's firmware normally or if there are problems when updating.
@@jonrodrigos yeah, I've had controllers that did have jitter problems after updating, and also controllers that did not have issues after updating. You can always roll back your firmware, so you can update and see if it works okay
@@noremalos1445 so after lots of testing, I've found its doable, but I've started exclusively using custom stick bases I 3d print, with no magnets, and are able to adjust the tension gradually instead of only 3 settings. May make a video on them soon. 👍
A question, why did you change the green and blue joysticks that are specific for the Elite Series 2 controller, the side magnets for the yellow and black ones? I don't know if you already tried and they don't work well, or you like the way the yellow and black joystick magnets work better. Could you tell me why you changed them? Thank you very much, very good video!! since there is not much information about these joysticks for the Xbox Elite 2.
In my experience, it may be possible if you position and install the module PERFECTLY. Which isn't a super difficult thing to do on other controllers... However for whatever reason, it's way more common on the Series 2 to need a few adjustments to get the module perfectly level with the board. Also the perfect height of the module from the board is also needed. Too high and the thumbstick bases will rub against the inside of the frame and feel awful. But too "low" and range will be lost likely in diagonals. So to summarize, yes I do think it's possible, but the margin for error is so insanely small... So I certainly wouldn't count on it. Lol
Hey @AtomicMike421 do you have link to where you get your favor union Xbox Hall effects or a place you recommend? I’m having troubles finding them (only finding ps5 ones)
I am testing some Hall Effect/TMR calibrations that were done NOT with these calibration boards, but with a pre-release version of an Xbox system update that added Elite Series 2 compatibility to the Accessories App Calibration. Results are good so far, so maybe soon we won't have a need for those boards anymore! 🤞🤞
Apparently, the application that Xbox launched to calibrate its joysticks is not compatible with magnetic joysticks, it does not detect them, and after performing the calibration they work worse than before. Have you tested the operation of this Xbox application to calibrate the joysticks, both with original joysticks and magnetic joysticks? Greetings!
@@danii1623 yes I've had both successes and failures using hall effects. It's risky because the app has bricked controllers of mine before... But the most recent 2 I did are working perfectly.
Any update about that ?
Nice video, nice to see how this actually works. I will be sending my Elite Series 2 in soon for this mod and a couple more, thank you for giving new life to my controller that lasted all of 3 months, that will likely now last for years.
Thank you for this video. It answers a lot of questions that I had because you must be the only one to have really made a video on the installation of hall effects on an Elite 2. There are others but they systematically replaced the tension sticks adjustable by classic sticks which means that it was impossible for me to know if the magnetic part which allows changing the caps was causing interference which was until now my main question and concern. The fact that there really is such a fine material that acts as a magnetic shield encourages me a lot because I couldn't figure out if the ones I found were just a scam or if they really worked.
I'm still waiting for some gear ordered on AliExpress to start my experience. I bought Elite 2 sticks sold with the calibration PCBs and I plan to put TMR modules in them (which I'm still waiting for) but all on a classic Series S/X controller (even if it means having to change the sticks, as much in take with more options). The TMRs theoretically have no interference with the controller triggers (compared to hall effects) and I am thinking of trying without the PCB. The fact that this is a regular controller without the magnets that you hide behind a magnetic shield saves me from having to worry about that. I just hope I don't have to buy any to stick some on the magnets in the cap.
@@thesilencer8074 I just did a controller just like that! Adjustable Tension Hall effects with TMR sensors on a Series X/S controller. I rolled the dice and used the App for calibration (it's randomly completely bricked controllers before) and luckily this time it turned out perfectly! Good luck on your project!
Wait I thought with the new orange and black replacements you dont need to do all those extra step ???
This looks sick! I already sent an email, can't wait to start discussing my controller with you
Do you accept custom orders? My Elite 2 controller recently broke, and I was planning to buy a new one. This time, I’d like to upgrade it with a few features:
1. Hall effect joysticks
2. Clicky hair triggers
3. Back paddle enhancement pads
4. ABXY clicky buttons
I also noticed that you replace bumpers and triggers with more durable ones, so I would like that as well.
Amazing ❤
Hello, I dont get what the calibration board is needed for. Cant i just swap the standart sticks with hall effect sticks and calibrate through the little holes?
the little holes only calibrate the center point, and newer, more accurate hall effects dont have that option. the boards are mainly for calibrating range, ensuring you have full range in all directions as well as the range not going too far outside the circle in diagonals.
Good job Brother
Hey there!
I have a question, or rather need help 😅
I installed ginfull HE sticks in my Elite v1, manually calibrated them nearly perfectly but... When i install my back paddles, the right stick goes crazy! What gives? Any idea how can i fix that?
@@Ghost_in_the_Hell it's the magnet interference coming from the paddles I would think. I solve this on elite series 2 with MuMetal (info in description) I assume it would work on series 1 as well? May also want to make sure the paddle/magnet isn't actually making contact with one of the pins on the right stick, just a piece of electrical tape covering either the paddles/magnets from the inside, or the solder points of the right stick. If issue persists after the tape, then it's magnetic interference for sure
@@AtomicMike421 by electrical tape you mean the Faraday tape? Also shouldn't the magnets interfere right away after assembling the controller? Why are they going nuts only after mounting the back paddles? 😭😭
@@Ghost_in_the_Hell no electrical tape is just to prevent a short or any pin from the back of the stick module contacting the MuMetal. Not sure why the paddles themselves would change anything aside from maybe slightly altering the magnetic field already coming from the magnets..?
Thanks for fhe video. Im about to get started on my own ginfull v.5 upgrade in a few weeks but wondering where to go to unstand what you were soldering? I noticed you soldered some little resistors which threw me for a loop since i only though you needed to solder the pcb calibration boards to the main board.
@@deebs11218 those little diodes are only needed on Xbox, and should come with the calibration boards. Honestly I wouldn't recommend undertaking this as a first try at soldering, it's a bit more difficult than typical repair/upgrades.
@@AtomicMike421 I appreciate the warning and I've seen enough videos on this to know it isn't for the faint of heart. If I fail, I wont be too broken up about it.
I am currently only using the first alternative with the driver board, but I am having problems with the calibration.
I can only get to mode A (Center Point) I can't get to mode B/S at all, what could be the problem? I'm desperate, since then I can't present my work
@@pavogear9190 if you can't get into mode b/s, then it probably has something to do with the soldering on either end of the diode. I would resolder those points, making sure the negative end is soldered to the pin, and positive end is soldered to the board.
@@AtomicMike421 Thank you for your answer.
You mean the black diode that you also have to solder on, right?
@@pavogear9190 yep
After v5 and v51 are installed on the Xbox Series X controller, can I normally update the controller firmware when available and calibrate it from within the Xbox Series X itself?
Why did those yellow hall effects cause a bug after calibration?
It's very important that if you go the route of calibration boards, you do NOT attempt calibrating using the Accessories App, as this can cause all kinds of problems with competing calibrations. Also, I have run into situations where the latest firmware caused excess jitter, so may be the case that rolling back firmware is necessary for the most stable performance using the calibration boards. If using Ginful curved magnets or Gulikit TMRs on Series X/S, I recommend NOT using calibration boards and instead using the accessories app to calibrate. If using any other kind of hall effects, then the calibration boards are the way to go.
@@AtomicMike421 Thanks for replying!
I installed the v5 and v51 calibration boards on the Xbox Series X/S controller. I installed the hall effects from K-Silver. (It came with the manufacturer's recommended kit v5 and v51). My biggest question for those who installed the v5 and v51 PCBs would be whether they could update the controller's firmware normally or if there are problems when updating.
@@jonrodrigos yeah, I've had controllers that did have jitter problems after updating, and also controllers that did not have issues after updating. You can always roll back your firmware, so you can update and see if it works okay
perfect!
thanks, I'll try to do that.
do Gulikit's TMR sensors give you any problem taking into consideration the thumbstick have magnets?
@@noremalos1445 so after lots of testing, I've found its doable, but I've started exclusively using custom stick bases I 3d print, with no magnets, and are able to adjust the tension gradually instead of only 3 settings. May make a video on them soon. 👍
A question, why did you change the green and blue joysticks that are specific for the Elite Series 2 controller, the side magnets for the yellow and black ones? I don't know if you already tried and they don't work well, or you like the way the yellow and black joystick magnets work better. Could you tell me why you changed them? Thank you very much, very good video!! since there is not much information about these joysticks for the Xbox Elite 2.
Yes it's absolutely not necessary, the v5 Ginfulls are slightly more accurate and a bit easier to calibrate, that's all.
When attempting to do Gulikit's TMR sensors would you still have to use a calibration pcb?
In my experience, it may be possible if you position and install the module PERFECTLY. Which isn't a super difficult thing to do on other controllers... However for whatever reason, it's way more common on the Series 2 to need a few adjustments to get the module perfectly level with the board. Also the perfect height of the module from the board is also needed. Too high and the thumbstick bases will rub against the inside of the frame and feel awful. But too "low" and range will be lost likely in diagonals.
So to summarize, yes I do think it's possible, but the margin for error is so insanely small... So I certainly wouldn't count on it. Lol
what pcb board holder are you using?
These - www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832769564060.html?channel=twinner
Hey @AtomicMike421 do you have link to where you get your favor union Xbox Hall effects or a place you recommend? I’m having troubles finding them (only finding ps5 ones)
@@folgee7368 sure thing brother, here ya go:
a.aliexpress.com/_mLcA588
@@AtomicMike421 Thank you brother!
Where were you able to purchase ginfull v5 HE, I cant seem to find them :(
nvm, I reloded your video and the description gave them!
@@folgee7368 yup, sometimes they are called v4 SE or something.... But the important thing is the curved magnets.
@@AtomicMike421 What is the difference between version v3 with rectangular magnets and this version v4 with curved magnets?
@@danii1623 better circularity, easier calibration
I recognize that music : from uppbeat right😂
@@OldAndyFitia hahah good ear!
Good Shit, couldve had some Nu-metal while installing the Mu-metal.😂
Too bad your bumpers and paddles will break in a week
@@n64slayer nope cuz I replace those with far more durable ones haha
@AtomicMike421 that's fair but I'd rather get any other controller 😅
@@n64slayer haha hey man to each their own, I use an Elite Series 1 as my main LOL
@@AtomicMike421 I mainly use 3rd party because they are actually good out of the box 🤷♂️