This was extremely beneficial to those who don't have access to a Dyno to use Auto Tune Live. Thanks for the video, you saved me a ton of time reading.
Thanks Jason, I have just purchased the woolich tuning kit for my gsxr600. Can I ask once I have installed it to the bike. Do you just ride around. then move to this step you have shown today? Could you do a video of setting up the auto tuner with preferred settings please? Thanks again for sharing.
You can do it that way. You can also use a usb cable attached to laptop and import that way. In my experience it is quicker to copy to the laptop before loading into Woolich.
@@MantisRacing when I take the memory card out and put it into the Laptop to copy it says boot, and the file is a bunch of numbers, when I try to load it on he woolich profile it says no file can be loaded. What am I doing wrong?
@@MantisRacing if what u day is true; it almost unbelievable. I’ve never seen modern service software that lacked the ability 2toggle languages &units. It is reasonable 2expect the top10 languages &the OEM language 2b accommodated if4 no other reason but marketability. I’ve always wished that we (USA) were on the metric system& Centigrade. We wasted so much time in Engineering school on conversions. (Dimensional Analysis)
Woolich gives one. I created my own. I shoot for 12.8 at wot max rpm. I blend from 13.6. I run a little rich at idle blend to your cruise rpm afr and then blend out to the wot settings you want.
How does it compare to FTECU AutoTune? That's the only one that I have experienced with on my R1. But I would love to add AutoTune to my 2018 GSX-R 1000R.
Hi I’m hoping you can help. I’ve been filtering out deceleration data from the start and out of interest unfiltered it just to see what the data was looking like and it’s very rich in the 11/12afr range.This is obviously due to me having deceleration fuel cut deactivated but wondering now if I should start Unfiltering it to try and lean the decel out. What do you think?
For a long time I used the decel fueling. The issue I had was it never stabilized. It was always changing by several percentage pts. I filter it out and adjust for off to on transition. If that is smooth I don’t touch it. Decel fueling doesn’t matter. It’s the smoothness to fueling that matters.
Jason, just curious what State do you live in for a series of questions: 1. When you began using Woolich, did you install onto a stock bike or an already tuned bike, and using Woolich to perfect your tune? 2. When you started your data logging, what data count do you use as a legitimate minimum count to apply an Autotune? Woolich preset is 2. I set mine to 5. Is it not more accurate when you have more data; 15 or 20 cell count vs 3 or 4? 3. When you started your series of Autotunes, could you share your initial settings and subsequent settings? Such as "First Autotune Filters maximum % change 10%, Minimum Cell Data Count 5; Autotune Settings: Autotune Strength 100%, User Defined IAP-TPS Transition 30%. // Second Autotune, Autotune Strength lowered from 100% to 75% (or 50% etc). 4. Have you done an Autotune for TPS but without Autuning the IAP? 5. How many Autotunes have you completed thus far to get a clean looking map? And, given your location, do you have one tune or seasonal tunes (winter/summer)? Thank you Sir. If it's too much to type in return, I wouldn't mind speaking with you if that makes things easier.
Great video, told me exactly what I needed to know, which I could find in the Woolich stuff. I also need to adjust the time date on the data logger. Did you find out how to change this?
The software has a set time function. I think you have to be connected to the logbox. Also I made a video about it keeping time. Watch that one it probably covers time setting
Jason, would you be so kind to share your 2-3, 3-4, 4-5, and 5-6 90 and 100 TPS ms times? For whatever reasons, I am having a difficult time "dialing in" the kill times for near flawless shifts. Sometimes, when I go to shift at WOT from 3rd to 4th or 4th to 5th, my shift will not complete. Basically, I attempt to shift and the bike will not upshift. Is my ms (kill) time too low or too high? I am at 63ms in 90 and 100 TPS 3-4, 4-5, and 5-6 from 12k down to 14k. Should I increase my ms (kill) time from 63ms to 68ms or lower it from 63ms down to 60ms or 58ms? My understanding is, if the bike will NOT shift, the ms (kill) time is too low a ms number and needs to be increased. But from my research, many riders are much lower than my 63ms. Any ideas why I am having so many issues? Do you use any Quickshifter Preload Time? If yes, what ms value are you using? Any info will be most helpful!!
If IAP is suppose to be low load cruising why isnt target afr 14.7 which the stoich amount. What cruising suppose to be. Running richer just waste gas. Is IAP not the cruising map?
I don't target 14.7 because air flow is not actually measured. As engine temp, air temp, humidity, atmospheric pressure changes the air mixture changes. Setting it to 14.7 will cause lean spots in some situations. Also, around 14 the throttle response is much better.
@MantisRacing I have a place in trying to get to tune my bike but they don't answer or call back lol. I have tuned cars. Trying to learn bikes. Some h2 guys online said to tune myself with auto tune
@@QSpeedRacer yes, do it with autotune. Tuning a bike is much easier there is no true airflow or density measurement and no feedback. But if you run it a little rich at cruise and idle it will run fine. Just remember to blend from cruise to WOT and choose a richer setting over a lean setting.
I really don't tune TC on the GSXR. It is just easier to turn it down or up. It seems to work very. well. If I did tune it I would try the wheelie/slide control setting.
This was extremely beneficial to those who don't have access to a Dyno to use Auto Tune Live. Thanks for the video, you saved me a ton of time reading.
Thanks Jason, I have just purchased the woolich tuning kit for my gsxr600. Can I ask once I have installed it to the bike. Do you just ride around. then move to this step you have shown today? Could you do a video of setting up the auto tuner with preferred settings please? Thanks again for sharing.
I will do that. Thanks for the reply. I'll take a look at what I have and why I might have changed it.
How do I open my current map on my bike and adjust choppy ness in a certain rpm range
Could you share your target afr file with me somehow? It would be much appreciated
Are you taking the memory card out of the log box and saving the files to your computer like that? Then loading them on the progrom?
You can do it that way. You can also use a usb cable attached to laptop and import that way. In my experience it is quicker to copy to the laptop before loading into Woolich.
@@MantisRacing when I take the memory card out and put it into the Laptop to copy it says boot, and the file is a bunch of numbers, when I try to load it on he woolich profile it says no file can be loaded. What am I doing wrong?
You should be able to read the card through a cable connected to the Woolich box. I never take mine out.
How do I change the temperature &pressure units2 USA values? Fahrenheit &etc?
I don’t think you can. The ecu uses C
@@MantisRacing if what u day is true; it almost unbelievable. I’ve never seen modern service software that lacked the ability 2toggle languages &units. It is reasonable 2expect the top10 languages &the OEM language 2b accommodated if4 no other reason but marketability.
I’ve always wished that we (USA) were on the metric system& Centigrade. We wasted so much time in Engineering school on conversions. (Dimensional Analysis)
Hi Jason, is there such thing a a recommended target afr map? How do I know what target afr is good to run? Just use the woolich one? Thanks
Woolich gives one. I created my own. I shoot for 12.8 at wot max rpm. I blend from 13.6.
I run a little rich at idle blend to your cruise rpm afr and then blend out to the wot settings you want.
@@MantisRacing thanks alot. Your videos have been super helpful. Auto tune is a good product for getting a good base tune on the bike.
How does it compare to FTECU AutoTune? That's the only one that I have experienced with on my R1. But I would love to add AutoTune to my 2018 GSX-R 1000R.
I have not used FTECU. Woolich you have to apply the logs. It doesn't auto adjust or write to the ECU.
TLDR:
FTECU= narrowband
WOOLICH= Wideband. Wideband = better'er'er... so just rub woolich (=
Hi I’m hoping you can help. I’ve been filtering out deceleration data from the start and out of interest unfiltered it just to see what the data was looking like and it’s very rich in the 11/12afr range.This is obviously due to me having deceleration fuel cut deactivated but wondering now if I should start Unfiltering it to try and lean the decel out. What do you think?
For a long time I used the decel fueling. The issue I had was it never stabilized. It was always changing by several percentage pts.
I filter it out and adjust for off to on transition. If that is smooth I don’t touch it. Decel fueling doesn’t matter. It’s the smoothness to fueling that matters.
@@MantisRacing brilliant. Bike rides sweet so il continue to filter it out and not worry about it 👍🏻
Jason, just curious what State do you live in for a series of questions:
1. When you began using Woolich, did you install onto a stock bike or an already tuned bike, and using Woolich to perfect your tune?
2. When you started your data logging, what data count do you use as a legitimate minimum count to apply an Autotune? Woolich preset is 2. I set mine to 5. Is it not more accurate when you have more data; 15 or 20 cell count vs 3 or 4?
3. When you started your series of Autotunes, could you share your initial settings and subsequent settings? Such as "First Autotune Filters maximum % change 10%, Minimum Cell Data Count 5; Autotune Settings: Autotune Strength 100%, User Defined IAP-TPS Transition 30%. // Second Autotune, Autotune Strength lowered from 100% to 75% (or 50% etc).
4. Have you done an Autotune for TPS but without Autuning the IAP?
5. How many Autotunes have you completed thus far to get a clean looking map? And, given your location, do you have one tune or seasonal tunes (winter/summer)?
Thank you Sir. If it's too much to type in return, I wouldn't mind speaking with you if that makes things easier.
NC. I’ll work on answers
Great video, told me exactly what I needed to know, which I could find in the Woolich stuff. I also need to adjust the time date on the data logger. Did you find out how to change this?
The software has a set time function. I think you have to be connected to the logbox. Also I made a video about it keeping time. Watch that one it probably covers time setting
Jason, would you be so kind to share your 2-3, 3-4, 4-5, and 5-6 90 and 100 TPS ms times? For whatever reasons, I am having a difficult time "dialing in" the kill times for near flawless shifts. Sometimes, when I go to shift at WOT from 3rd to 4th or 4th to 5th, my shift will not complete. Basically, I attempt to shift and the bike will not upshift. Is my ms (kill) time too low or too high? I am at 63ms in 90 and 100 TPS 3-4, 4-5, and 5-6 from 12k down to 14k. Should I increase my ms (kill) time from 63ms to 68ms or lower it from 63ms down to 60ms or 58ms? My understanding is, if the bike will NOT shift, the ms (kill) time is too low a ms number and needs to be increased. But from my research, many riders are much lower than my 63ms. Any ideas why I am having so many issues? Do you use any Quickshifter Preload Time? If yes, what ms value are you using? Any info will be most helpful!!
Look at about on my yt channel. Send me an email. Or look me up ig realpsi.
Where do you find the target AFR to work with I have an 08 cbr1000rr and there is only the stock file in woolich map share
you can create it in the software
If IAP is suppose to be low load cruising why isnt target afr 14.7 which the stoich amount. What cruising suppose to be. Running richer just waste gas.
Is IAP not the cruising map?
I don't target 14.7 because air flow is not actually measured. As engine temp, air temp, humidity, atmospheric pressure changes the air mixture changes. Setting it to 14.7 will cause lean spots in some situations. Also, around 14 the throttle response is much better.
@MantisRacing guess motorcycles don't have all the sensors so the computer can't adjust for everything.
@@QSpeedRacer no the O2 has been removed. Even when there it seemed like it trimmed to a lean setting.
@MantisRacing I have a place in trying to get to tune my bike but they don't answer or call back lol. I have tuned cars. Trying to learn bikes. Some h2 guys online said to tune myself with auto tune
@@QSpeedRacer yes, do it with autotune. Tuning a bike is much easier there is no true airflow or density measurement and no feedback. But if you run it a little rich at cruise and idle it will run fine. Just remember to blend from cruise to WOT and choose a richer setting over a lean setting.
Can you show the woolich racing settings for traction control tuning on the gsxr1000r
I really don't tune TC on the GSXR. It is just easier to turn it down or up. It seems to work very. well. If I did tune it I would try the wheelie/slide control setting.
@@MantisRacing i just picked up the software for my gsxr. How well does copying the accel and decel maps work? no jump at all?
@@codywichman213 it has not been an issue for me. I do know of some who tune decel individually. I have not seen the need to.
I wish you could help me do this to my 2023 zx10r your better than Dyno tuners
Open the woolich box there is a small battery that need to change then you update the time in woolich software
Thank you. I reached out to Woolich and they told me the same thing. It was so obvious I laughed at the answer. Thanks for commenting.
You need to replace the button battery inside the unit to fix time
Thanks. I don't remember when but I did get the time fixed. Yes, there is a battery! I felt really silly for not thinking of it.
So when u auto tune it u write the ECU again
You have to apply and then flash the changes