Chrysler Sebring JXI 1999 Convertible, Repair, Troubleshooting
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.ย. 2024
- This is quick overview of typical minor problems encountered with the Gen I Chrysler Sebring JXI convertible,,years 1996-2000. You want reliability and good running car. These things are sensitive to aftermarket parts. Also forgot to mention, that oil that pools in the spark well from leaky valve cover o-rings will shorten the life of the cam sensor due to partially shorting the plugs. Solution = new valve cover gaskets and o-ring seals. Otherwise you go through a lot of cam and crank sensors. I like convertibles. That's why I keep it. I hate the way the new ones look,,ugly,,just my opinion. The Gen I is the one. This thing runs flawless now and never ran that good. There was actually 2 problems with this car. The distributor broke (no start) and And valve timing jumped one tooth,,possibly when the distributor was going out and it was backfiring.
iridium555.blogspot.com See for list of videos. How to on Sebring Conv.
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Just bought a 1999 LXi with 140,000 miles and just found this video. THANK YOU! Even though I work for a Chrysler dealer, I’d like to do my own stuff on this car. This video showed me what I can handle and what would be best left to my factory techs.
I used to come to this whole playlist for help whenever I needed to do an engine repair. I really liked this convertible... big trunk, big backseat, robust Japanese 2.5 liter, SOHC 24 valve, V6 engine (6G73), solid highway gas mileage. It was a perfect car for summer trips. Anyway, I'm now looking to sell it.
The car in question is a 1998 Chrysler Sebring Convertible Limited Edition (Limited is just an especially souped-up JXi). The car has a few dings on the exterior, and the interior is fairly beaten up: two windows don't roll down all the way (top still goes down), some rips in the leather, radio shorted out, etc.. I used to come here to get help with the maintenance. The engine has been exquisitely maintained as that's the one thing that I knew how to do... 130,000 miles, still gets 25+ mpg hwy, still runs smooth. Work I've done to it includes all belts, including the timing; also, spark plugs, filters, sensors, brakes and rotors, PCV valve, battery, etc. I did the coolant every 30,000 miles as well as the ATF fluid, and I've been using nothing but Mobil 1 full high mileage full synthetic with premium oil filters for the past 5 years.
It's still a fun car for the summer. It doesn't have any amenities, but it will get you from A to B, and, with the top down, it's an enjoyable ride. It would also be great for parts. I bought a new car and I don't have room for this one anymore. Figured I'd post this here as this was one of my favorite places to go for engine repairs. Note: I also have the full factory service manual that comes with it, or I'd be willing to sell that separately... it's a comprehensive overview of all of the mechanical components as well as a manual for any required repair with detailed diagrams.
Anyway, the car is garaged in Cleveland, Ohio, but I'd still trust it to drive anywhere across the country. Asking: $500. I might just scrap it, as there doesn't seem to be much of a market for a 20 year old car with 130,000 miles, but I figured there might be another Sebring enthusiast out there who watches this channel.
Email at: peachmail25-target@yahoo.com.
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Hello. I purchased a 1999 Sebring from a co worker one year ago. It needed some fixing. Your videos have been great.. I am very familiar with this car now. Videos have been very informative. Thank you. The car is a great runner for the $300 I paid for it and I'm only into the car for about. $700. Anyway thanks again.
James Burke How does it run? Have you had any problems? Im currently looking into buying one from my coworker and I've read alot of bad reviews. Would you recommend this car for a beginner?
@@prodbyvessels Dag I wish he would had responded lol im interested in purchasing a 97 convertible Sebring from my neighbor for my son who is 16 so it would be his 1st vehicle as well
@@ieshagreen2430 I ended up getting a Scion TC as my first car. Really reliable during the time I had it so I'd recommend that as a first car from experience.
dude. I love this video. So much good information and very thorough. Cant thank you enough for getting this info out to us shade tree mechanics.
You're welcome. I thought I knew a lot of stuff, until I had to figure out this particular car. The Sebring is fine, as long as you know the qwerks. I can see why it could drive even professional mechanics nuts sometimes. I have about 250,000 miles on the original engine and trans now and I run it hard. It still runs like new and everything works.
I'm so glad you made these videos.. I just got a 1997 Sebring with 200k miles on it. It's clean and runs great. But just to have this information to go with is so valuable. Thanks you so much.
I have a '97 as well...they're a future classic. :)
Agaibn, your vidoes and instructions have been nothing short of great. I think by working with my uncle and watching your videos, I've learned a whole lot about my ride and saved probably more money. I'm going through the rest of your videos one by one to see if there is anything lse I need to watch out for. Thanks again!
This is it. I have been looking for a channel who covers old Chrysler Sebring and I guess I hit the jackpot :-) Just watched the first video in th playlist and you seem to know what you are doing. Subscribed. Thanks!
Hi Syyenergy, thanks for saring this video.
About a year ago I bough an used but in good condition Sebring 1999 JXI convertible, love the car. About one year ago the car simply died while driving it around, luckily around the neighborhood, my mechanic told me it was a dead distributor, I bought a rebuilt one from Autozone for $220 dlls, lasted one full year, last week it died again, got warranty replacement, lasted one week and died tonight, it turns back on but dies at random times...
Also, as a follow-up comment, i've rebuilt my distributor by buying an aftermarket coil and cam sensor, i replaced them, they worked well, so far they have over a year working, they're Taiwanese parts, coil was $15, sensor was $10, cap $5 and rotor like another $5, shipping was like $20. I bought them from Taiwan directly. I just had my crank sensor go bad, I got a new one, it's not working right but I ran out of daylight so I cant check it. Anyway glad to see someone else working on this car!
Excellent video. Good advice about removing the upper intake manifold to access the top two bolts to the power steering bracket. I found that getting at those bolts was impossible otherwise. I'm impressed that you got your 99 to go that many miles. I'm doing a timing job on a 2000 JXI now that has 120000 miles and its leaking from every front seal and from an unknown spot on the back. The owner neglecting oil changes probably has something to do with that though.
Hello Sy ...... First off I want to thank you for all of your videos showing how to and tricks and tips to remedy many different issues that may arise while owning the 96 to 2000 Chrysler Sebring .... your videos have saved me a lot of money and made my daughter very happy .... Hats off and Thank You!!!A new weird problem has arisen as of lately and thought to ask you for help .... first off it is a 1998 Chrysler Sebring JX with the Mitsubishi 2.5 liter engine.... I bought this car for my daughter for Her High School graduation this past year and here are the things I have had done this far before finding your videos here on you tube.... I had the water pump , water pump inlet tube , timing belt , tensioner and crank and cam seals replaced, also valve cover gaskets and trans pan gasket , filter and trans oil changed and air filter ... since your videos I have replaced the battery and hvac control resistor but the reason I started watching your videos is hoping to find a fix for what we have experienced just a few days ago The other day taking her car down state Michigan ( we live in Charlevoix Mi.) on a weekend blitz to The Henry Ford Museum and Greenfield Village in Dearborn Mi. we encountered poor idle ... and a weird multiple cylinder misfire within 10 minutes of a cold start .... this didn't happen as soon as we started the car every time though ... sometimes it would happen right away .... other times it would happen within 10 miles of first starting the car .... I would pull over and let the car idle for upwards of 10 minutes and it would go away and perform flawlessly weather I drove 20 miles or 300 miles but if I shut the car off and didn't restart the car for 1 hour or longer it would happen again.this has been going on for 4 days now .... I got the codes read and it only showed a PO300 code which is a multiple cylinder misfire codes .....on cylinders 1 , 2 , 4 , and 5 the weird thing is that we will start the car and it will idle so smooth you cannot tell its running and other times it idles so rough it feels and sound like it has a huge cam in it !! weather or not the idle is smooth the only time I experience the misfire is usually within the first 15 minutes of firing it upI hope you know what this is because I don't want to take it to the mechanics again ...as it really hurts when they get done with me !!again Thanks
+Phil Allison It Could be the CPS or the distributor failing. If they are old I would change them. For the CPS use Chrysler OEM. For the distributor use Cardone Select NEW distributor. Cardone far cheaper than OEM and works great. In any case, i those parts on the car are over 10 years old it would be smart to change them. They are a common fail point.
Thanks. I'm very impressed with the engine; just want it to run as best as it can. I will definitely act on your hunches. I trust your diagnosis even when you cant see my car. I like your enthusiasm with this engine also. Once again. Thanks.
THESE vids on instruction will help me out as I just aquired/bought a '96 with high miles (183K) for $200.00!! Car has sat for a llil over 2 years. Runs great!! previous owners said it has a "shut-off" issue while running (crank sensor?), it has not done so while sitting idling for me, but of course needs a new top and LOT of TLC that you have listed in vids here. ty soooo much for your expertise on this car. It will me out greatly as Im handy when it comes to cars. Figured out few things. - DTM
There is no small hose on a box on the firewall. But there is a small hose on the back of the upper intake manifold (near the firewall), that comes from the EGR valve. That hose can break pretty easily when anyone removes the manifold if you are not very careful Also, pay especial attention to the elbow fitting on the end of the hose where it attaches.
Thanks, and thanks again for all the wonderfully helpful video's!!! .... got this car for $300, saved it from the junk yard, and your video's have saved my quite a few dollars and with no job at the moment.... I'm so very thankful!!!
First off, as a new 99 sebring owner, your video section is GREAT. I probably have saved myself a bunch bucks just by watching this and taking my time. Here is my issue. Car was idling high, and could here skips or bumps when at idle. When at speed or moving, I dont feel those same bumps. However; once I try to get on the HWY, i find the car jumped ALOT like it was trying to find the gear.
sorry for the late reply, you were on the money, the oil in the spark plug valleys shorted the coil, i changed the valve cover gaskets, put new plugs in, we just changed the whole distributer out, the car runs once again and better than ever. Thank you very much.
You literally solve almost every issue with the car I have and Ive complained about for the last year. This is going to change things
I have a '96 JXi and had a similar problem. Changed out the water pump and now the car runs fine!
changed EGR, re-did all the gaskets and its running good. Changed CPS as well the other day with MUCH IMPROVMENT. Thanks!
Great video, just got a garage kept 1997 Sebring JXI with only 60,000 miles. Will be using your channel as a guide to any work necessary on it.
If you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay for it?
yo how’s that going, i just started working on mine and this is the most recent comment ive found
Thanks for the advice, my car is fixed and running well! I changed the plugs and wires. I cleaned the negative and positive terminals and a grounding strap near the EGR. I fixed a small vacuum leak at the EVAP Purge Control Solenoid and ran Seafoam through it too. No more P0300s or P0455s or P0171s. Thanks!
And thanks for the video on the timing belt replacement, that was a hellava job..!
First May I say Thank YOU!!! your video's are great
1998 CHY Sebring Conv. - Overheating
December I had no heat and had the thermostat replaced,
January... I had the freeze plug blow
May.... the top radiator hose blew 2 months later...
overheating still, the same shop is puzzled
ran a presurer test.. and no leaks, fan running fine. and they can't get it to over heat
The only time I notice the temp rise is when I'm using the a/c, heat, or fan (p.s.heat dosn't work fo very long)
I have a 2000 Chrysler Sebring Convertible and this video definitely helps a lot! Awesome explanations bro.
I fixed the rear window over 2 years ago and it is holding up fine. The glue is very strong and has not separated one bit.
Thanks for posting this video. I acquired a 99 JXI convertible in February of this year in Texas and got stranded in Arizona on the way home. replaced the distributor 3 times, the final one being the one you recommended as I had it shipped to the mechanic myself. he said he used a factory crank trigger but not sure thats true. anyway he got the car running and I shipped it to home to Nevada. hadn't driven it until the last week other than to just check it out and all was good until I filled it with gas. Then the Service engine light came on but car ran fine. I checked the codes with ODBII reader and P0300-306 were showing. I reset the codes and took it for a 10 mile test ride and the car runs good but when I got home and checked the codes it said P0300-306 were pending. Service light is not on but have a feeling it will be shortly. Really troubled and not sure what to do. Bought this car for my elderly Mom to drive on occasion but don't want her to get stranded. Any suggestions? Thanks
The PCM (computer) on this car is very finicky with the brand of ignition wires. I found that Duralast wires from Autozone work great. 3 other quality brands of ignition wires worked horribly. And don't use Autolight spark plugs in this engine either. The PCM is that sensitive.
OK, thanks for the help. The formal owner said around $800 for the dealer to fix. Bad part is being so happy that it was starting just to have it stop again.
$800 is ridiculous. Try some locksmiths and independent garages.
For the ignition lock the dash does not need to come off, just the plastic around the steering column. If you take off the lower dash then the whole upper dash needs to come off but you really don't need to take off the lower dash. The only special tool you need is a "security" type torx socket. "Security" torx sockets are cheap, but you need them for the screws, otherwise it is pretty easy. I changed mine but I did not do videos on the Sebring back then.
@bajacapt There are 3 motor mounts and 1 trans mount. 2 motor mounts are in the cradle and you can buy just the inserts. I filled those mounts up with urethane window sealant so they should last longer. The stock mounts seem a little weak and it's probably made that way to smooth out vibration.
Thanks again for all of your helpful content on this car. The son who drove this car has been gone for a few years and this car has been sitting. I would like to offer this car to you as a thank you. If you want to have this car transported so you can harvest the engine, tranny, etc. let me know. Otherwise I'll be donating it.
For the valve cover just be careful not to overtighten the bolts. The spec is 30 INCH LBS or 2 1/2 FT LBS. which is low torque. Go over the Valve cover bolts a few times but don't overtighten them. I doubt that most mechanics would use a torque wrench on the valve cover gasket but they know the amount of force required by feel. Knowing the torque spec gives you a good idea and helps.
Part 2 comment: just a follow up on my message before. we changed the plugs, cables, rotor, timing belt, timing pulleys, water pump, fuel filter, air filter, crankshaft sensor and the distributor, looks like this last distributor is another lemon from Autozone but has lifetime warranty. Love this year Sebring, going to try my best to figure this one out. Thanks again for this video and if you got any suggestions I will very gladly welcome them...
replaced the cps yesterday... been watching alot of your videos. just to clarify, it will get spark, but stops after a few seconds.. repeatedly. talked to several mechanics from local shops, panama city fl, and the only thing that i've heard different than what you said is it may be a security system shutting it down... this is my aunts car, and she had an idiot try to fix it and that's why the original distributor had to be replaced. he pulled a front plug wire while car was running... cont nex
Everything you went over was great! I love my 1999 and do not want to give it up. I was told its burning oil now! Thinking about buying a used one for parts. Wish me luck, was quoted $5,600 for new engine.
No I didn't video that. It is pretty straight forward. Be careful on over-tightening the bolts and also make sure to change the o-rings where the spark plugs go through. I also use a gasket dressing (the red colored spray) from Permatex, as that works very well with cork valve cover gaskets. You may find the old gaskets hard as a rock and need to be chiseled out. It may take a good deal of time to get all the old gasket material out.
After a few mechs i talked to, most seem to point to bad cables or spark plugs. Only does it when it warms up (most of the time) Other morning, I went to start and nothing happens. Engine is trying to turn over, but not catching. removed distributor cap, found that it was bad (button over rotor was literally gone and rotor was scorched) Replaced cap and rotor, and car started fine. Lower RPM (1500 vs 800 now) but sounds real throaty and deep.
I had one and other than it's age, it was pretty good to me. My most common problem was it not starting when I turned the key. completley randomly I'd turn the key and it would crank, but never turn over. Other than that I would Kill to be able to own a Sebring again. Oh the adventures I had with it!
My harness for the spark plug wires broke off but I made sure non are crossing and re plugged them into the distributor. Replugged all connectors and felt around for a vacuum leak but couldn't find anything. I cleaned the MAP and took it for a drive to see if I could trigger a MIL. Nothing so far but it actually died on me and had a rough time starting. It needed some throttle to keep the rpm up for a second or two.
Thanks... I'm gonna watch and send over to the shop... It's just so strange that it will go for a month or so with no problem and then bam!
@bajacapt If there is oil pooling in the spark plug wells due to the o-rings leaking in the valve covers, then it could cause a slight short in the ignition and that is hard on the distributor. I think sometimes distributors have a short life for this reason.
A rubber freeze plug will work in cold weather. The problem may be if the block froze. The metal ones would pop out better. Otherwise no problem even in extreme cold. You may need to use this type because the area is cramped to work in.
@asuyadot Sounds good. That power steering pump bracket is that thing that is a semi-pain to get out of the way. Watch what waterpump you use when you do it. People very recently had a lot of trouble with NAPA waterrpumps and parts recently, which used to be great parts before. I trust a Bosch or Beck-Arney waterpump. These cars can be super reliable with some tricks. Glad your ride is working great.
Also check for vacuum leaks, especially the hoses on the EGR. The thin hose especially and the elbow joint where it connects to the upper intake and the EGR itself. These cars do run fine, but one thing off will create havoc with the engine management system.
The timing marks on the cam sprockets are pretty faint. I use a magnifying glass plus I mark them carefully with white paint. If the problem occurred right after putting on a new timing belt maybe the valve timing is off a notch. I check that a few times, before I go to the next steps. Unfortunately if you suspect the valve timing is off you have a big job ahead of you, unless you cut a notch in the upper rear timing cover like I did.
It could be one of the ones that is very difficult to replace. Depends on which one it is. You could put in a rubber freeze out plug too, especially if you don't live in an extremely cold climate. They are a very hard rubber with a bolt in the middle that expands the rubber. Since the freeze plugs in the back of the engine are hard to get to, putting in this kind is feasible. You can't swing a hammer for the metal ones but you can turn a bolt for the hard rubber type.
@TexasToast09 The ignition switch is $26. You need a special "security" torx wrench for that. The "security" torx set is about $8 online.
The valve cover bolts are very low torque , 30 INCH LBS, (which is 2 1/2 FT LBS). Work from the inside out and go over them a few times. The specification is 30 INCH LBS. So caution that you do not over-tighten them.
@bajacapt I had the Cardone Select for over a year now. Cardone is the largest manufacturer of aftermarket distributors. The "Select" is new, not re-manufactured and each 100% tested to conform to OEM specs and a lot less than a dealer part. It should work fine.
Small vacuum leak is often a problem that drives people nuts. The small hose from the egr and elbow connectors at the ends break and most people miss that. The other thing is the ignition parts themselves. I found out the hard way this car hates some aftermarkets parts. Best to go with an OEM CPS. I wen through 2 new sets of wires and both cause misfires. The Autozone duralast wires work fine. Also if it drives bad after it warms up, suspect the EGR.
I came on the internet to find info on problems with my 1996 Sebring. I want to thank you for things you helped me with. OOh and by the way... When I watch your videos I hear a Philly Kensington accent!! I am in Fla now, but I grew up near Sears at Whitaker and the Blvd!! Look me up on Facebook or email me and lets see how many people we know from Philly and laugh!!
I'm from NJ, near NYC, but that's pretty close.
I heard the accent (ooh I got the accent as well!!) People here in Florida ask me all the time if I'm from Philly because of it. And I never though I talked that way... guess I do. LOL. I have lots of family in Maple Shade NJ. And a few places in NY. My mothers side of the family is Buttacavoli, in NY. :)
Thanks for the link, I think the starter engages because the engine still rotates.
@8888shaky It could be a number of things. The simplest and cheapest thing to try is the Seafoam treatment for fuel and also check for codes. If wiring is faulty a it will throw a code. And you are right, a code does not necessarily mean the sensor is bad, it could be faulty wiring. Also sometimes it's smart to replug in all connections. Clean all grounds also. Computers are sensitive and even a corroded ground will cause wierd problems. That's the free stuff to do.
I have this car, I bought it in 2008 with 40,000 miles on it, it now has 106,000 miles on it. I am 20 and I got it when I was 16. Up until 2011 I haven't had any problems with it but then... I got them. I had the wheel barrings replaced. New suspension, shocks, wheel cylinders and that was $1,200. Then during a trip from TX to MN, my radiator fan went out in OK, that cost 700 dollars! for a fan!!! Then my distributor when out in October! $680!! Now my caps are leaking and ignition swtch is bad.
@catdog2two The valve cover gaskets probably can not be reused since the originals are made or cork. You can reuse the intake gaskets. I will use Permatex 80065 High Tack Spray A-Gasket on them which resists gasoline.
This car is finicky regarding ignition wires & that took me a while to figure out. It does run fine with Duralast wires from Autozone. Also the problem you had with the button from the distributor popping out has happened to me before. A cheap cap can do that. The metal button could still be in the distributor someplace. If you still have problems you may want to pull the distributor and replace it with a Cardone Select distributor (new one). The other thing to watch is for is the EGR.
They are not hard to change. Number 4 is the middle fuel injector in the front. It's about $50 on rockauto. If you are not sure, you can swap the no. 2 and 4 injectors and see if that makes a difference. Since it is right in the front and not covered by the upper intake, it will not be a lot of work to try this and see if the code moves to the no. 2 injector. If the problem remains on the no. 4 injector then it likely would be wiring or connector. Also try SeaFoam and clean out everything
The 1st O2 sensor is hard to get at. I changed it from underneath. The part that was a real pain was pushing the electrical connector back together. I had to do that with one hand and push it together with considerable force. This car definitely does have some things that are hard to get to. FWD design with a lot of interior room, but the mechanical parts can be very little room in areas.
Yes. Even in extreme cold the rubber freeze out plugs work, But IF the block actually froze (would never happen with proper anti-freeze) than I heard the rubber plug may not pop out like the metal ones.
A thermostat is the most likely thing but it could be a partially clogged radiator or even the water pump itself. Sometimes crude builds up in the water pump area and it does not work as well. You may want to try a Prestone flush but that could maybe open up a small leak. A little hot is ok and actually good for engine longevity. A little bit hot is about 195 versus 180 degrees.
The aftermarket air intake dose not effect the idle speed at all. You might want to reset everything. Disconnect the battery for 15 minutes and then drive it around and like the computer re-learn everything. Sometimes that cures "weird" problems.
Also have your electric fan checked. That's what happened to my '98, the fan seemed to be working but the motor was bad. once I changed it, no more heating problems.
Great Video and information, just wish you used a little more light so we can see exactly what you are talking about
If nothing happens only Sometimes when you hit the key, is Could be the ignition switch in the steering column. It is only a $28 part but requires a cheap security-type torx wrench to remove certain small bolts.
Use a Bosch replacement starter, if you need to change it. I get parts from RockAuto online since they have great prices and are fast to ship. The starter is located on the passenger side near the firewall.
Well that is a high idle so possible it could be a vacuum leak (except it should be lean then). The MAP sensor controls the mixture. Not sure what it could be off-hand. Try replugging in all connectors and then check for codes. Check the firing order and also the routing of the wires (e.g. crushed ignition wire). Or a wire not plugged in the distributor cap fully.
It is just a matter of lining up all three valve timing marks and making sure the timing belt has the correct tension. Those cam sprocket marks are pretty faint so I carefully paint a thin white line on the sprocket itself. Lining up the valve timing is critical. I show closeups of the marks in the timing belt videos and the notch on the valve covers that they line up to.
I didn't want to say the transmission, but that did occur to me also. IF it is a worse-case-scenario, the cheap route is to go with excellent used transmission (assuming it need to be replaced). IF it was the transmission, it may also be the Torque converter. Try changing the fluid twice and add some Auto-RX to it on the first fluid change. It is not a waste of money to do so.
It stalls only when warn. Also, it rarely happens but Sometimes the check eng light comes up as the car often coughs before stalling.. but CheckEngLight wld go off after turn the ignition off and Let it sit (5-15mn) then the car can start back with no ChckEngLight but would eventually stall later on.
Thanks a LOT for your insights.. I'll let you know how it goes.
Okay, thus far your vids have helped seriously. Now I still have a few things to do, but I'd like to get your thoughts on a few things...
1. Oil leak still exists. Its not the pan, oil sending unit, filter or the valve cover. (I replaced the seals under both front and back plus the tube seals - the full kit you can buy) I have oil dripping from the drivers side (closer to the distiburitor/CPS sensor) and across the back. I have yet to identify the exact source. I thought it might be the pan itself, but the oil is coming from higher than that. (or so it seems)
2. Still have the issue where if I rev the engine over 4k RPM, the needle literally red lines...if it wasnt for the stopper it think it would rotate al the way around. Changed TPS (mine looked damaged, had serious cracking on the manifold side) no change, other than it just feels smoother when accelerating. I cannot find a vaccuum leak either, but I am still working on extensively checking every hose and connecter.
3. Motor mounts. Now, I know you have another video on this and I am going to place the urethane windshield adhesive in the new ones. I replaced the passenger side when I re-did the timing belt/water pump (awesome video btw). Without crawling back under my ride, can you confirm the front mount is welded or otherwise not removable from the frame or engine support bracket? Autozone has all the mounts I need, and I see the back one is only the insert(per autozone website). the front comes as a "complete mount", signaling to me that I can replace that without having to press it in like the rear mount.
I realize this is alot of talk/question...but so far you've been the best guidiance (other than my uncle whose been watching your videos with me); I spent 25 bucks on the service manual and its has helped some...once I get around all the 2.0, 2.4 2.7 and 3.0 engine talk. If its easier, I am available via e-mail @ johnrawson01@yahoo.com.
Again I appreciate all your videos and comments.
Both the center motor mounts on the cradle are removable inserts. To find the source of the oil leak clean the engine. This is what I do to get the engine super clean,.
Best Cheap DIY Engine Cleaning Tips (Motorcycle & Truck also)
Best Cheap DIY Engine Cleaning Tips (Motorcycle & Truck also)
I don't know what the problem with reving over 4K is.
syyenergy7 cleaned up engine already...still cant seem to find the point of origin in that oil leak. I've seen a few threads here and there talking about camshaft seals and distributor o-rings. The back of the rear valve cover is good, we'll verify that though once I get the upper plenum off to redo the gaskets and seals for the lower manifold. I got the inserts for the motor mount, and I'll "seal" them up this week like in your video for a hopeful weekend install. I have access to a press in order to make the insertion a bit easier, although I still have to remove the old ones...fun. And as far as the reving issue...its a mystery...I will keep looking I'd really hate to go to the dealer or repair shop and find its a cheap fix (like a sensor or vac leak) that'll cost me 5 times the DIY cost. Again, thank you!
John Rawson
The Auto-Rx stuff Might work if it's just dirt in the seal. I was surprised how well that stuff works sometimes. There were times I took out a trans seal and cleaned it good, reinstalled it and it sealed well after that. Sometimes the Auto-Rx works.
Great I'll look into that! Also found the rpm or what I thought was a RPM issue: performed a instrument cluster diagnostic using the key and odometer button. Pretty simple, if you didn't know, press down the odometer button, turn the key on, just until you see the lights, don't start it. It'll say chec 1...then start a diag. Found that my tachometer goes from 3k RPM to redlining; all the rest of the gauges move with the test properly. Huh, at least its not a sensor or something engine-related that's gonna cause bigger probs...off to the wreck yard...
@TexasToast09 That would be the lock itself that is jamming. You could have a locksmith take out the pins that are jamming. The security is in the electronic chip so if you take out 1 or 2 pins in the tumbler it would not matter, as far as making the car easier to steal. The ignition switch itself is something different.
I actually used a steel insert versus the helicoil. A helicoil was in there from another owner and that failed, so I used a steel insert. Btw, the Auto-Rx got rid of the lifter noise. That's why I think that stuff is good. I tried other additives before the Auto-Rx that usually work and it turned out the Auto-Rx cleaned up the sticking lifter. I know on my spark plug change video I go into the exact thing to fix the intake stripped out threads. Maybe also on the EGR video.
I just used plain RTV for the trans pan and did not use the gasket. You use either the gasket or the RTV but not both. Make sure it is clean.
We have nothing that can really check if the ignition coil is working properly. The distributor manufacturers have special testers to do that. They check a number of parameters (wave signal, etc). Just replacing only the coil is a fraction of the price of a distributor. If the distributor is over 10 years old I would replace at least the ignition coil as a precaution for good reliability.
I don't think it would be the vent valve. It would be something either with the hoses that go to the evaporator canister (like a cracked hose), a gas cap that does not seal or the solenoid that is part of the system of the evaporator system. It is something to do with the closed fuel system that keeps gas from evaporating into the air. If when you take off the gas cap, after running a good while, & it seems like there is some suction, you can pretty much rule out a cracked hose or bad cap
Okay, A/C works fine now. Needed charge AND had a valve core leak (took less than 30 bucks w/ refridgerant to fix). Swapped wires and plugs with help from my uncle, redid gasket around upper manifold and where EGR tube connects to upper manifold. Will need a new gasket up there soon as well. Car runs ALOT SMOOTHER. still has bumps though, and looking at the EGR I'm thinking of just replacing the whole thing. Its rusted and looks pretty old any ways.
I bet it may have to do with the egr. Check that small hose from the egr to the back of the upper intake ad also the small rubber elbow connectors. Often they break or that thin hose breaks or gets crimped. Also check for a good ground at the egr and no vacuum leaks on the egr tube. The Egr can cause all kinds of drivability problems. Pretty sure the problem is egr related considering you did the other stuff. Check that small hose carefully !
An ASD relay is only $5 and takes a minute to change. That is the reason I suggest changing it. It's one less thing to guess about. The ignition switch is in the steering column on the left side, opposite of the key cylinder. I had that break and I hear some go on these older cars. The part is not much money ($28) but you need the security torx socket to take it out (about $9). I really can't diagnose over the internet but these are more common fail point & cheap fixes.
I'm pretty sure (without actually being there) that you have a big vacuum leak. It could be the EGR pipe not being on correctly or the intake gasket being off, or something like that. With an idle that high, very likely it is a large vacuum leak. I don't think the EGR itself is bad. There is also a small hose connected to the EGR. You could try spraying carb cleaner in a suspected spot and see if that effects the idle. You could narrow it down that way. You have a vacuum leak.
If the coolant is full. Try flushing it out a few times with Prestone flush. You have some type of restriction or the water pump is clogged up with junk.
A simple trick would be to disconnect the battery for about 20 minutes. That will cause everything to reset and the computer will have to relearn. Sort of like a reboot. It's worth a try since it costs nothing and it's easy. Sometimes this can fix fix weird problems.
The simplest thing would be to change the fluid and filter in the trans. I would change the oil in the pan,,run it a few minutes (through the gears while stationary also) and the change it again to make sure you get a lot of the old oil out of the torque converter too.
Clean all the grounds on the engine and battery plus replug in everything to make sure everything has good contact. It almost sounds like the problem is not always there or varies. Sometimes that is simply a bad ground or electrical connection. Connections get corroded on an older car & need to be cleaned. Changing the ignition wires would be smart too if they are very old. Use Duralast from Autozone. They work right in this car and they don't cost much.
I don't know. Could be transmission related. Makes me suspect the TCM (transmission control module) which is an easy swap. Nothing to program. You just have to use the type specific for AutoStick or non-AutoStick.
The likely places would be the hose from the egr and where the small hose connects to the back of the intake manifold or the brake booster vacuum line.
They were drilled and tapping in and secured with loctite red. The replacement steel inserts are actually stronger than the original aluminum threads. They are explained on the "sparkplug change" video. I also explained then on other video because it seemed to be a problem that many encountered on this car. The usual fix is a helicoil insert. But the steel inserts are much, much better.
The starter has a fuze and that could be blown. If that is not the problem check the voltage at the starter. Also could be a bad ignition switch.
You should not have to take off the upper front timing cover but there is a blot that has to be removed. The front upper timing cover only has three bolts, so if it seems to get in the way for you remove it but you only need to take out the bolt that is attached to the valve cover.
the ignition switch was sticky/hard so I already replaced that . Sorry I should have mentioned. Thanks for the confirmation of the security system cranking issue. I will try the relay.
You have sticking tumblers in the ignition lock. The lock can be popped out when the key is in the on position. You may want to get a locksmith to do this. If you have a couple of sticking tumblers/pins the locksmith can pull them out. Your security is in the chip in the key versus the key itself.
That's right. If the key is not coded right, it will only run a few seconds. The thing I would wonder is if the PCM got zapped somehow and messed up the vehicle data. allcomputerresources sells them for a decent price with a lifetime guarantee. They need your VIN and the mileage. But I'm not sure if that would be the problem. Could be. The security system would do that. From what you tell me what happened that could be the problem.
will do, planning on that this afternoon. Will report what it says once I get it
Chrysler forum boards ate full of people searching that stalling problem. I've replaced egr alternator tps and crank shaft sensor. The car still stalls when it gets to running temp which leads me to believe its the wiring. I will look into what u suggested and the asd relay u mentioned in ur video. Again thank u
It could very well be the ignition coil in the distributor or the CPS (crank position sensor) starting to fail. Those are common fail points in the ignition system after years of service.
I have videos on how to change the CPS and also on how to change the ignition coil inside the distributor which is much. much cheaper than changing the whole distributor.
made this same mistake myself. Ensure each wire is connected to the dist cap tightly (my mistake), firing order is correct, and rotor is pointing to #1...since then car runs nice (with reference to the above)
I would try the Auto-Rx product. It's only available online. It safely cleans engines so well it may cause the rings and oil control to improve by cleaning out the ring grooves. I use it all the time.
This car will run fine with NGK plat. It does not like most Autolite plugs (they work great in Chevy's). But you have some other kind of problem going on because it's a total no start. The most common thing is the distributor but you can just change the ignition coil in it versus buying a whole distributor. That is a Huge difference in price.
@pedriuskii Yes. The power steering pump bracket upper bolts are very difficult to get at. This car generally is hard to work on with the extra caution that it may not like some aftermarket parts. Otherwise it can be pretty reliable. I like driving this car more than others.
@TexasToast09 I am very aware of some of the problems with these cars. As far as who makes a roomy convertible that is not too bad on gas, the Sebring is about the only one. Some problems with this car are choice of aftermarket parts & that will really drive you nuts. These cars are also harder to work on than average. The point of the vids is to make it easier. I don't endorse Chrysler. Back in the 1960's they were great. I like the Sebring CONVERTIBLE.
It could be a number of things. I assume it cranks over fine. If you just had it turned up, I'd call the place and tell them. It's possible that something is disconnected. One simple thing I'd do is try starting fluid to see if it fires up briefly. And course check for spark. But if this is beyond you, it's better to deal with a mechanic. Typically a no spark problem for a Sebring is the distributor or the CPS.
Trace back any wires you pulled off and replug in everything on the engine , including the distributor. You could have broke a wire internally also. Checking the codes may tell you exactly what is wrong because something is completely disconnected versus just starting to fail.