1996 to 2000 Chrysler Sebring Convertible, TIMING BELT & WATER PUMP 4 of 4
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ม.ค. 2012
- How to on changing the water pump and timing belt of the 1996 to 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible with the 2.5 Mitsubishi engine.
Chrysler Sebring JXI 1999 Convertible, Repair, Troubleshooting
• Chrysler Sebring JXI 1...
1999 Chysler Sebring Convertible heater core changeout 1of 2
• 1999 Chrysler Sebring ...
1999 Chrysler Sebring Convertible Heater, Dash 2 of 2 and ENGINE SENSORS
• 1999 Chrysler Sebring ...
1999 Chrysler Sebring Convertible, Ignition Coil in distributor
• 1999 Chrysler Sebring ...
1999 Chrysler Sebring Convertible Autostick conversion 1 of 2
• 1999 Chrysler Sebring ...
1999 Chrysler Sebring Convertible Autostick conversion 2 of 2
• 1999 Chrysler Sebring ...
1999 Chrysler Sebring Convertible Water Inlet pipe 1 of 2
• 1999 Chrysler Sebring ...
1999 Chrysler Sebring Convertible Water Inlet pipe 2 of 2
• 1999 Chrysler Sebring ...
1999 Chrysler Sebring Convertible Air Vent Control Fix
• 1999 Chrysler Sebring ...
1999 Chrysler Sebring Conv Battery & Lower Balljoint replace Overview
• 1999 Chrysler Sebring ...
1999 Chrysler Sebring convertible sparkplug change
• 1999 Chrysler Sebring ...
1999 Chrysler Sebring convertible CPS {crank position sensor} & Distributor
• 1999 Chrysler Sebring ...
1996-2007 Chrysler Sebring Convertible DRAIN HOLES
• 1996-2007 Chrysler Seb... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
![[ไฮไลต์] เจ้าฟ่าง ธีรพงศ์ ศิลาชัย "คว้าเหรียญเงิน" ยกน้ำหนักชาย รุ่น 61kg | โอลิมปิก 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/981lYv1AwKk/mqdefault.jpg)
This job took me about 40 hours to do, but I also did inner and outer tie rods, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, valve cover gaskets, oil pan, motor mounts, starter, alternator, accessory pulley, coolant flush and probably forgetting a few other things. I'd say I spent about 20 on the timing belt / pump alone, but I'd blame 10 of those for not being familiar with best access points for disassembly.
This video was a huge help for me to even attempt it. My advice after doing the job myself... Some of the bolt sizes quoted are off 1mm and you might round off the hex heads if you don't double check yourself.
My biggest point to help you out is the power steering bracket bolts. I had a hell of a time with these and finally ended up using a long extension and universal to go between the exhaust tunnel and catalyst for the top bolt and between the the catalyst and cross member for the "middle" bolt. This made this job much easier after I found I could reach these bolts with the long extension method. Easy to remove and torque via these access points. Knowing this the first time would have saved me 3-4 hours of frustration trying other access methods. I actually went back and checked my timing after questioning my work and got the whole thing apart / inspected / and back together in less than 3 hours since I now knew the best way to get to these bolts!
Another tip is belt timing. I ended up using far less clips then in the videos and got it right the first time in about 20 minutes by routing the belt appropriately over the cams & crank with the idler tensioner off. After I had everything lined I up bolted the tensioner bracket on and installed the timing belt tensioner pulley. My belt didn't line up perfect with the marks, I was 1/2 notch either side regardless. I chose 1/2 notch "short" so that when it does stretch it will get closer to correct and not farther away.
Also... Unclip the fuel return line and move it out of the way. I ended up banging into this enough that eventually it broke right next to the connector and had to replace a fuel line... Likewise be careful with the vacuum lines, these were all very brittle, 1 broke in 2 locations...
Thanks again for the videos, they were a big help!!!
Got a big job ahead of me but I’ve done it once before on a different car so hopefully it won’t be too bad. I’ll also have some help from my dad who is a mechanic. I’m just going to help with labor with his instruction but it helps to do some preemptive research on the specific car model
hey brother,great video very informative,but the only thing i wish you showed was the process of removing the crank pully,that would have saved alot of time messing with the roller pin,great video thank you
ALSO the rear power steering pump bolts behind the intake might be removed without taking the intake off. I took mine off as per this video. I watched another video on TH-cam and they said they lowered the engine some after removing the motor mount to get to the rear PS pump bolts.That kind of makes sense too. But I haven't tried it. The motor mount comes off anyhow for this project.
Joe seely that was a good piece of advice that you gave us someone I know replace the seal behind the timing belt but they never change the timing belt itself they put it all back together and now the serpentine belt is chewed up and the car is out of time he didn't know what he was doing he didn't know how to put the car back in time you go to the number one plug you find TDC top dead center you take the gears on the timing belt and you line The Notches up that's how you time a car up he had no knowledge of this single parent female pay them all kind of money and he even took her passenger right front tire and took it and stole it and put a donut on that car and it's flat this was a nightmare for this customer good mechanics are hard to find
The fastest simple things to check are spark & fuel. Use some starting fluid and see if it starts briefly. You can also buy a very inexpensive spark tester ad check to see if you have spark while cranking the engine. Or just pull off a plug and ground it & see if it has spark. You may want to check that all the connections are on the various sensors on the upper intake manifold. Take a look at my sparkplug change video to make sure everything is connected.
Great video! Very informative. I wish it would have shown how to align the timing marks if the valve timing wasn't achieved because the exhaust cam moved after the belt came off. Mine moved like an entire half turn and I'm not sure if it was clockwise or counter-clockwise when it moved. So I'm searching on how to find TDC and achieve correct valve timing as not to ruin the engine. This engine IS an INTERFERENCE engine.
Gotta correct you but that block is cast iron.
True :) Mechanics are very much under-appreciated.
I removed sp bolts without removing anything in the car, nothing at all.. secret is to use deep socket with a short (3inch) extension and that will do the job.. trust me.. i done it plenty of times on many sebrings and eclipses.
For just a few dollars more, and a good piece of mind, you can replace that tenioner and idler bearing/pulley. The only timing belt job that ever came back to bite me was do to that idler bearing. Now, I always replace them both. If I; not mistaken the Mazda V6 and the Subaru motors have that same type tenioner. Just some food for thought
As a rule...when you are doing any repair work on you engine involving water pumps, timing belts, idler pulleys, they say you should always replace them (A kit) along with the crank seal and cam seals...that way it's all new and you wont have to tear it apart just for one item if it fails in the near future...repair shops are expensive so it should "all" be replaced as long as it's apart..."make it a one time job"
I noticed my car was leaking coolant about 2 weeks ago. Was thinking the whole time it was the water pump. I took the timing belt cover off today and the actual cause is a freeze plug on the head is corroded. When I bought the car there was rust in the coolant system, now I know why. Anyway very good video, next week i'll be changing the freeze plugs on the heads (I pray I can find them here in Germany), head gaskets, timing belt and water pump.
They have rubber freeze plugs that expand with a bolt for those places that are hard to reach.
I appreciate the prompt response . It wouldn't be because the timing belt may be off a bit ? I'm guessing the car wouldn't run at all if the timing belt were off tho .
I brought the car to a mechanic when it was over heating , and they did say it was the water pump , and now that it's replaced...I just don't understand lol .
I will def. check out what you just said , but do you think it could be anything else ?
When I took mine apart, the timing marks were a bit off but it always ran fine. I think the belt may have slipped wen I was taking off the harmonic balancer pulley becuz I put a wrench on the bolt for the front cam pulley to try and keep evetything from spinning wen I was trying to loosen the bolt from the balancer (Bad idea I know that now) it should be fine as long as all the marks are lined up wen the new belt is on right?
Ok, I have it figured out. Removing base plate made it all come together. Bearing in water pump fails, leaks water thru weep hole shaft out the back of base plate into the valley between the cylinder blocks. After removing pump definitely noticed a bearing drag which explained all.
Thanx for the info and the video!!
@MrNoizyToyz You need to compress the tensioner and put the pin in it before you install it again. It requires a lot of force to compress the tensioner. I used a valve spring compressor or a large C-clamp. After you install the tensioner, set the tension on the belt. There is actually a special tool for this but I don't use one. I can usually get torque settings very close by hand.
I am having issues removing the power steering belt and alternator belt. especially retightening it. any help is appreciated.
my water pump just recently seized up on me. i attempted to do it myself before finding your videos. Problem is all three cam sprockets have been moved and the belt cut off. After putting in the new water pump and the timing belt back on the car starts then dies. All the timing marks are lined up.. Is it because the sprockets were moved after cutting off the old timing belt? If so what can I do to get all three cam sprockets back in time. 1998 Sebring 2.5 liter hard top V6. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advanced.
So was it a cracked block or water pump??
I've never had this much issue with a timing belt normally takes me about an hour to do one to make sure everything is set exactly right. but this one here is a kick in the ass
+IceePrettyWings Yeah, I know. My Suzuki Samurai is easy as all hell to change the timing belt and it even a Non-interference engine. But I'll stil take this Sebring ragtop over a damn Google car. :) Another reason I'm staying with the old stuff.
Thanks, I started this and thought that it can not be that hard but you confirmed it ,it is that hard. Power steering pump bolts suck.
I use a crowbar on the tensioner to hold the tension in a little tighter as a tighten everything up. The little hole in the tension does not have to be perfectly lined up when you are done but it should be close. The idea is ot to have too much tension but to leave enough room for the tensioner to take up the slack as the belt stretches. Th valve timing does have to exact. Eve one tooth off with give you crazy problems in how the engine runs.
Question? I set my timing belt on the mark . Car still wont start. what can be wrong or check in to... ?
how do I line up the marks if I'm not supposed to turn it tho n how do I do a compression check
hey I just got done working on a 1998 Chrysler cirrus everything looks the same from your videos and they were very helpful by the way. I have a question. once I took the timing belt off the right cam jumped about a quarter of an inch then like a jackass I turned it with a socket wrench to try and line up the marks I turned it both ways clock wise and counter clock wise a couple times to try and line up the marks did I damage anything and how do I line up the marks if im not supposed to turn it
Hi i watched this video , and i followed all your steps and my water pump is changed but the engine is still leaking in that area . Do you have any suggestions ?
I had leaking from around the water pump area , coming down the timing belt area . Changed everything , put it back together , added coolant and it started leaking immediately without even running .
If you could even call me that would be of great assistance .
I cant thank you enough man, Great Videos, I followed them to a tee and every thing work out great. I though I was going to have to buy the tensioner pulley tool, which I could only find online but couldn't wait to order it. Thanks again syyenergy7
No problem. Glad it helped :)
I'm aware of the other method of going through the bottom. But most of the time that is not easy and most people can't do it. I can pull off the upper intake in 15 minutes without rushing from start to finish. Most people take off the upper intake and get those bolts from the top. But it is whatever works for the individual.
Use a strong floodlight and look at everything careful. I did video it but it may be still hard to see. Even during the day use a strong light and you will spot where the adjustment bolts are. You probably can't see well in that area.
It could be the water inlet pipe. I have a video on that. I had to change that too. It had a hairline crack. The water pipe from the water pump to the water manifold can corrode after a while. If the engine valley is filled with water that may be the problem. It's hard to judge with out actually seeing. Use a very strong floodlight to look at all areas carefully
The only other thing I can think of is that maybe the water pump gasket is folded over on a corner. It's a thin gasket and pretty easy to do. Try to shine a strong floodlight and pinpoint the source of the leak.
i have a sleeve aprox 25mm long 10mm od and 8mm id that i cant see where it goe. to make thing worse I lost it and don't realy know if it just fell in my tool /parts box...on another note Im oasis energy consultants in san diego ca.im a semi retired solar heating contractor, and was curious about syyenergy
If you turned it with wrench fully around I'm pretty sure you damaged the valves. The only way to tell is to do a compression check after you have the timing belt on. I know the cam sprockets can move quite a bit without it doing damage. Like in the case the cam sprocket moved under the valve spring pressure. But if you turn something with a wrench a full turn, then I think you bent a valve or two. Only way to tell is with a compression test.
dam that powersteering bracket !!! i cant get the back cover off...should i take the power steering bracket off???
The Timing belt will come off when you do the water pump, so you will have to compress the plunger to get the right tension on the belt.
As long as the marks did not go that far off, then the valves would have stayed clear of the pistons. You may be ok. May sure everything is lined up perfectly. Check it a few times. I personally liked cutting the oval hole in the rear upper timing cover so I can check the marks without pulling everything apart. That may come in handy someday.
Thanks so much for your help! Ill let you know how it goes. Id hate to see this car go
My pump came with more gaskets than I would expect, there's the main gakset, a second smaller gasket, and an o - ring
. I also noticed that the mating surface for the water pump is not the block, but a separate piece that can be moved back and forth. I see no means of removing it. I'm concerned that the extra gaskets go behind said moving piece but I have yet to see any evidence of this in any write up or video like yours.
Any insights?
I only had one gasket, And an O-ring, so that all I used. Maybe you have gaskets for the water manifold on the other side of the engine,.
Synergy. When the cam sprockets are lined up, TDC, in what position is the dowel pin on the rear sprocket? Same as the front, @ 10 o'clock, or is it @ the 5 o'clock position?
Thanx!
Robert Dier I don't remember the dowel position on the rear cam. I used the mark on the sprocket to time the cams. The front cam dowel (not the timing mark) is about 10 or 11 o'clock because I saw it on a video I did.
@MrNoizyToyz The belt needs to be taunt and when you pull out the pin on the tensioner it should basically not move or move very slightly. In other words the tensioner will have enough travel left to keep the belt tight as it stretches over time.
I really appreciate you answering so fast , i will def. check this out . would you think it would be anything else ? I brought it to a mechanic and they said it was the water pump and now that it's been replaced i still don't understand it lol
How did you get the PS bracket to move. mine wont budge, ive taken ever bolt i can find off. (two at the top, one on the bottom)
One more bolt on the bottom. Use a floodlight. You'll see it.
I am having trouble getting the tming belt cover off of the rear cam. Any suggestions would help. Use a bigger hammer is not a suggestion.
Thanks Mike
Watch all the videos. The power steering pump bracket is in the way.
If you take the rear valve cover off, you will have easy access to the two bolts that hold the back of the power steering bracket on.
I have a question, I'm going to be performing my timing belt job on my convertible soon. When aligning the camshaft sprockets is it ok to move them clockwise and counterclockwise in order to line the marks up?
You do have a few notches tolerance while lining the marks up. Just make sure everything is lined up perfect for final tightening down of everything.
Thank you for the quick response. Have been dreading this job, but to stubborn to bring my cars into the garage for anything.
It prys out after you take off the cam sprocket. I would leave it in place if it is not leaking.
Even the cam is not supposed to move over 4 notches, in practice the cam sometimes slips more by mistake when trying to line up everything. It does not seem to hurt anything. Maybe because nothing is forced. I've had the same thing happen & heard of others that did. It didn't hurt anything. Maybe because nothing was forced. Otherwise it would damage the engine.
Cant just take the cam gear off and maybe the tensioner and pull belt off?
I'm doing this job and after getting it all apart I found a bracket on the ground that I hadn't noticed before. I'm hoping you can tell me what it is and where it goes. It's a painted black metal bracket about 5 inches long with 2 bolt holes on each end and an oblong hole close to the middle, kinda reminds be of an engine lift bracket. Any clue what this bugger is?
+txmyk Could be the power steering reservoir bracket.
+syyenergy7 Thanks, I'll give it another gander tomorrow
+txmyk Turned out to be the engine lift bracket. Bolts to the intake and head inside the power steering pump bracket, runs up the back of the engine.
Shit....how do I get the rear cam seal out
If it jumped just due to the valve spring tension, I did not do damage. If it is forced it could do damage.
Hi syyenergy7...I have a 1999 Sebring convertible jxi (pretty much a great big paperweight!) And my fiance cannot figure out how to get the harmonic balancer out... In hoping you will be able to help us out, as you seem to know a lot about this type of car!
'Impact wrench and use an impact socket. Don't use a regular socket. It doesn't have enough weight behind it.
Did you use any type of sealant on the water pump gasket or did you put it on dry?
I used Permatex 99MA high-tack Sealant, but you don't need it. That stuff does work with gaskets.
Thanks for the reply. Also, do you need to drain the coolant to replace the water pump?
most of it
Did you install the o-ring behind the water pump when you installed it that is in between the impeller rotor and the inlet pipe?? Your video does not address this. What size is the o-ring? Size of a 50 cent piece or so? The o-ring I have came with my pump is that size. The inline water pipe, which I have already replaced, has a pressed on o-ring, so is there one more o-ring that is supposed to be installed in there? Shop manual is not specific on this
Thanx
The o - ring should come with the new pump.
1999 Chrysler Sebring Convertible Water Inlet pipe 1 of 2
th-cam.com/video/e1-j5cqQpsM/w-d-xo.html
1999 Chrysler Sebring Convertible Water Inlet pipe 2 of 2
th-cam.com/video/nXzhLNnV2f8/w-d-xo.html
syyenergy7
Yes, and it is the size of a 25 cent piece. It will slip over the impeller shaft, but its to small for the inlet pipe orifice. Is there an o-ring that must fit between the inlet pipe base and the base of the water pump? It certainly does not look like the small o-ring I received is going to fit anywhere. Ill check again tomorrow, and thanx again for the quick response.
and there already is a pressed on o-ring on the water inlet pipe. Is this enough to stop the water, IYHO?
R
Robert Dier
I triple checked the dealer parts diagram and there is one gasket and also an O-ring for the inlet pipe. The O-ring for the inlet pipe is definitely bigger than a quarter. That must be a wrong sized O-ring that came with the pump.
syyenergy7 Ok, so if I understand you correctly, I should be good to go, for the Inlet pipe already has the press fit o-ring on it.
There appears to be a groove just ahead of the inlet pipe where a larger o-ring could go, but I see nothing on the impeller side that would hold this o ring in place.
When I double checked the inlet pipe, after the 1st go round and it leaked, I installed a 2cd, larger o-ring at the base of the inlet pipe to the water pump base, and bolted it up, so I should have that covered. (reason being, when I took everything apart the 1st time, I removed an extremely distressed "base gasket" from the base of the wp side inlet pipe, {factory F up?}. This is what led me to asking about needing TWO separate o-rings. 1 o-ring press fit onto the pipe itself, and a 2cd o-ring placed into the inlet pipe recess between pipe and wp base.
Ill button it up and hope 4 no more leaks
Got it out....and installed new ones....everything going back together....im alittle weary of the timing though...marrks good...rotate.... Still good...but the tensioner pin doesent go back in....motor already spun
My belt broke, so I took the heads off, had them all rebuilt. Got the heads back on the car now. And can't get the cam marks lined up because the valve spring tension the cam won't stay where I need it too it goes down on like the next cam lobe, if that makes sense
It is a pain to keep it lined up because of the valve spring compressing. I used those large paper binder clips to hold the belt on and moved the cam a notch on the belt until it lined up perfect.
I'll give the durlast wires a try. I checked my marks today they lined up. thought I would retention the belt as I wasn't satisfied with how that went last time (maybe too tight). Reset tension with 3.3ftbs counter torque on pulley and then torqued bolt to 35ftlbs. pin removed easily. spun engine by hand timing marks all goos, but the tensioner piston is now bottomed out. is this normal?
The tensioner should not be bottomed out but it may be how you spun the engine over. On the wires, it surprised me that this car will run like pure shit with even some name brand wires. Duralast works perfect and they are inexpensive and quality.
syyenergy7 Well hard to believe, but after 12 weeks of futzing with this car, I was ready to donate it today. I reset the belt tension still ran crappy. Thought I'd throw a timing light on the thing, but thats impossible, so went to autozone & picked up the duralast wires. Pulled the intake (again) and noticed that the 5 & 1 wires were swapped! Well that makes perfect sense. Happy to say that car runs great with NGK wires too (as long as they are on the correct terminals. Took the car for a sunset drive to the lake this evening. It ran so smooth!! I quietly said to it as I drove "All is forgiven".
Thanks for the input Ssyenergy. Glad this nightmare is finally over
Kelly McKinley
NGK wires and plugs are good in this car. I tried 2 different sets of performance wires and car ran like shit.
What is the average labor price on timing belt change? Also what is the listed labor time for this job? I have a 1998 cheysler cirrus that needs timing belt change
It takes 8 hours shop labor so it's not cheap.
@@syyenergy7 I've heard 5-6-7 hours..What do you charge?
I'm an accountant, not a professional mechanic. I just have many other skills in addition to mathematics.
@@syyenergy7 That's even better! You should be able to use your acconting skills to come up with a price. Lol!
or would it be easier to put the tensioner in last
this I the 2.5 liter v6 or 2.4 liter 4 cylinder?
+James Wright 2.5 liter v6
So, start to finish, how long does it approximately take?
All day. I think it is 6 shop hours, so double that.
Sounds like a two day job for me... LOL
Yep. Actually leave one bolt in the bracket and swing it out of the way. The bolts are 15 mm and they are on there Tight. The power steering bracket is the worst part of this job.
I got everything in time. I left the key in the tensioner so that way it don't push the idler up
Sebring Convertible, Fix LED Console Light with EL Inverter
th-cam.com/video/ekKtSPcjXpI/w-d-xo.html
The shift indicator lights on the console typically will not work or the light will go out
intermittently from time to time. This is a common problem on the Chrysler Sebring convertible The problem of the shift indicator light or console light not working is usually a simple solution that arises from a faulty or defective EL inverter. This video shows how to fix it.
what if I took the tensioner off and didnt put a pin in it,I went ahead of myself
You should replace the timing belt while you are doing the water pump. Yes.
I replaced them.
I got a ? is this an interference engine or is it a
non-interference engine
+Eric Jones interference engine
You should be ok on a 1 or 2 tooth timing belt jump, even 3 teeth. With a 5 tooth timing belt jump you will have bent valves.
+syyenergy7 interference makes me cringe cause when I get ready to do the water pump I will make sure it's on cause bent valves will make a man's day go down hill quick. lol. been nice if it was non interference.
+Eric Jones Yeah I agree. Interference engines suck. Most modern engines are interference especially duel overhead cams.
+syyenergy7 my fiance just picked up a 99 sebring tonight. water pump power steering pump oil pan gasket thermostat all needs to be replaced pretty much minor easy stuff. but the timing on this motor is going to be Titus.
+syyenergy7 when doing the timing on this motor since it is interference. what is the best way to set the timing with out taking the risk of bending the valves. do the old trick an pull the spark plug out stick a long extension down until number 1 piston is all the way up. or rotate the cams to pull all the valves up in the cylinder head. I'm used to messing with non-interference engines.
Mim num entendis nadis...
OK I could have gotten this done 2 days ago. if I was informed on this video to LEAVE NEW TENSIONER OFF.
+IceePrettyWings You take off the tensioner to compress the spring.
+syyenergy7 new tensioner has a pin it don't get removed until you put the belt and tensioner on. once it's in time then you can remove the pin. it's just a pin with a ring that you pull out.
+IceePrettyWings I know. And you put some tension on the belt so the pin pulls out easily. If you use the old tensioner, you compress the plunger and put in small allen wrench as a pin to hold the plunger. I did this job many times.
+syyenergy7 I get you usually when I do a job like this I normally buy a new tensioner to save the hastle. from compressing it. I honestly think the timing is the most difficult than anything on this car. it literally makes everything cake walk. looking back on everything with them hard bolts in the back of the head was easy lol.
+syyenergy7 time consuming but easy
I tried to put the timing belt on the way you said an I can't get the timing belt on at all its a bitch
+IceePrettyWings It is a bitch. I need to use the binder clamps and it's still a bitch.
+syyenergy7 I got the belt on all the pulleys but needs to be stretched over the right cam gear an I'm about lost cause I have done everything I know to do. I spent since 12 noon till 6 in the evening
+syyenergy7 would it be possible to put the belt on an then the tensioner or would that not work
+IceePrettyWings First take a break, because you are doing something a little bit off. Get a very strong light and look at everything carefully. I find when I use a powerful floodlight I will notice something better than if I just used a regular light. You might be one tooth loose between the cam pulleys or the tensioner plunger is not compressed when you are installing the belt. Re-read all the directions that came with the belt. The pulley that in on the swing arm that the plunger pushes is the pulley that adjusts the tension of the timing belt. I can't see exactly where you are having a problem. Take a break, re-read the directions and get a strong light to see exactly how it works. A strong light might help a lot. That's sounds too simple but it sure helps sometimes.
+IceePrettyWings The problem is sounds like the tensioner. Maybe it swung way out of position.
This job is taking much longer than expected(& I was planning on it taking a while) After new water inlet pipe & stripedbolts in thewater pump, new distributer cap/rotor , plugs, oil seals the car is back together. Decided to replace fuel filter cuz gas smelled foul. Just fiished that job and put fresh gas with injectorcleaner in it. Still runs like crap. Rough idle, not firing on all cyl. will go BACK in and check marks today. Possibly it doesn't like the plug/plug wiresorcap & rotor?. Ready to shoot this car...
This car flat out will not run right with some brands of ignition wires. Duralast wires from Autozone work great.
Double check your plug gaps, if they didn't have protectors on the tips it is very easy for the gap to get messed up during shipping. This caused a rough idle and stumble for me.
Yea I'm gonna take it to a pro lol not gonna happen