1996 to 2000 Chrysler Sebring Convertible, TIMING BELT & WATER PUMP 1 of 4
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.ย. 2024
- How to on changing the water pump and timing belt of the 1996 to 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible with the 2.5 Mitsubishi engine.
Chrysler Sebring JXI 1999 Convertible, Repair, Troubleshooting
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1996-2007 Chrysler Sebring Convertible DRAIN HOLES
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All the videos I have on the Sebring are on the playlist on my homepage. Another note, if the oil seals on the valve covers are leaking in the spark plug wells that can cause a minor shorting condition and lead to the distributor and /or CPS failing. On the cork valve cover gaskets use a light amount of spray gasket sealant from Permatex. Don't use RTV or gasket maker with the cork gasket. The spray gasket sealant is the right stuff & will make the cork gasket seal perfectly.
Even though it’s old, I just found your Sebring convertible video series and couldn’t be more thrilled. A few years back (actually about 5) I bought what amounts to a running driving project 98 Sebring JXI ragtop for the extremely high cost of $100 including a 2 day old Interstate battery. It had taken a hit on the right rear quarter panel and wheel hub assembly and the owner had hired his neighbor to fix it but yikes what a hack. I’m disabled with a very limited income so progress is slow at best but is still crawling along. So far, rear quarter about 70% re-repaired to fix the hacks destruction of it, right front lower control arm changed, both front springs replaced. THEN the problems started. Factory security system went crazy, got it resolved, and 6 months later a new issue emerged. When first started and cold it runs great but after about 10 minutes of slow in town driving or 5 highway miles, as soon as I come to a stop or low speed where rpms drop below 1000 rpms it stalls and won’t start again until it’s cooled off OR if I give it a squirt of starting fluid, then it is fine until the next time the rpms drop below 1000 rpms or I stop for a stop sign etc then it repeats EVERY TIME. Start, slow or stop, stall, squirt, start, go to the next block with a stop sign, repeat again. I had someone say it’s the distributor but someone else says it has 2 bad O2 sensors causing a fuel system fault which shuts it off. Could that be the issue instead of the distributor? When it is running it runs great other than the dreaded rotten egg smell of the exhaust which years ago meant emissions system issues. It got about 30 mpg until this issue started and now gets around 22 mpg. Also that right rear wheel has a bounce to it no matter what tire or wheel is put there -. Bent hub assembly? I’m used to working on and driving vintage rwd cars with carburetors and points ignition systems instead of these fwd, computerized things so any suggestions other than getting a scan tool are greatly appreciated.
Update: one day later,a few short drives (15 to 20 min) and a couple long ildling sessions 20-30 min, I pulled out of the garage today wih engine light on, came to a stoplight, turned right and the light went off for good. Amazingly good.
Hello, thanks for your effort. Does the belt, if there is a difference of one or two teeth, stop the spark and the pulse of the fuel injector, and then when operating, three of the fuel injectors pulsate together and then there is nothing. Please answer my question, please, and thank you
Eric Jones. I just did that on my 2000 Cirrus. Worked like a charm. One turn of the key.
Thanks for that comment. Another reason I like the 2.5 engine in the older Sebrings vs the 2.7 engine in the Gen II Sebrings.
Quick question for you, if you know the answer. 1999 Chrysler Cirrus 2.5l LXi. My timing belt broke and I needed to find TDC, can I rotate the two camshafts and crankshaft independently to line them up with timing marks and then install new belt? One other thing, to say that it's a 'b' to do this job is an understatement. It took me the better part of two days just to get to where I had access to the pulleys and get to the point of installing new belt.
If you keep everything lined up you should be fine. After I installed the new belt with the marks lined up I did rotate the engine over to verify everything and make sure the marks were perfectly lined up.
Yes correct. I did that late at night. It was a 22 mm or about 7/8 inch. I'm aware of the 25.4 to the inch. Very late night vid, Thanks for the correction. I fixed the annotation.
Thanks, damn you cover a wide variety of topics; no wonder you're up at 4am. I'll report back to you in a couple of days.
The engine itself is great. Other little problems come up. I went over most issues I had in videos. Certain qwerks to this car, but not a big deal if they are told.
You need a code reader to see why the engine light is on. A basic one is cheap. Read the codes & write down what they are. Then clear the codes. Drive it until the engine light comes on. Usually the 1st code to come on is the problem. if you drive the car a while more codes may pop up and then it gets confusing to figure out the problem.
@syyenergy7 If the part about removing the large bolt (22 mm or 13|16ths) on the pulley seems to be a problem. You might want to try a hand-impact with the proper IMPACT socket. Regular sockets do not work as good with an impact wrench since they are much lighter. The heavy walled impact sockets work well with an impact. The hand impacts are cheap. Use a large hammer.
Thank you for the video updates. I am beginning to wish that I had never got my Sebring now..lol.
hey syyenergy7 :) , i did that 1999 chrysler sebring JXI 2.5 L V 6 , and found out it was the Distributor ( was fried ) due to internal oil leak from its O ring , changed the Water pump and the Timing Belt , I would like to share with you and everyone here a new trick I came up with , regarding the removal of the second timing belt cover ( covering over the steering pump ) the black bracket that support the intake manifold and it was preventing the Timing belt cover from sliding back and lift off .
so this is what i did :
I marked where it is aligned with top of steering pump bracket and its tilt on intake manifold .
2- after I took it off ? and removed the timing belt cover , I cut that bitch to the marked level .
3 made a V grove shape seating gutter in its bottom to only seat on the steering pump bracket .
4 you will never need to deal with steering pump removal after this modification because it will not be in the way of timing belt cover next time .
the steering pump bracket will act as a seat for it and support the intake manifold .
+AnunnakiThe1 Yep, that is CORRECT! You will not ever have to loosen a pwr steering bolt again! At least not either of the 2 on the back side back there at the top. This is a must do trick. The only thing I worry about(but have NEVER had happen) is something getting in there at that point and wedging itself under timing belt or whatever and CRUSH, valves gone! But really, I've never seen that happen.
AnunnakiThe1 I managed to get the two back bolts of the power steering bracket and one bottom bolt. Where is the top secret #4 bolt located. There is absolutely no literature, video, manual that says were all the bolts are located. These videos only mention that there is two lower ones.
Peter Babcock there are 4 bolts holding the steering power pump bracket which also holds the timing belt ( bank one = intake manifold ) cover at its far top end ( with a 10 m bolt on L stub up bracket ). two of them are located at the lower side of the engine block ( right next to the power steering pump bottom inner side ) , and two of them are right behind the intake gasket cover ( on the passenger side fire wall )
The power steering pump bracket two upper bolts......I got those done.......The two lower bolts for the power steering pump bracket.........one is located right beside oil pan.......I got that out........Where is the other one?
right next to it , it is hidden between the arm grove itself . you need to use a flash light to see it and feel it .
Love the videos you make and want to thank you for your time and effort. With that said... I would like to state some things I found out first hand. I have a 98 Chrysler Sebring JXI with about 210,000 miles on it. The water pump blew a seal and started leaking... badly. A call to the dealership for a water pump replacement resulted in a $1100.00 to $1500.00 (depending on what they found in process) quote. Being mechanically inclined, and with both the ALLDATA instructions in hand and your videos saved to my hard drive, I decided to just do it myself. HUGE mistake. These engines are assembled at the factory completely separately from the rest of the car. The reason being... you are NEVER... EVER... going to be able to access all the bolts you need to access to make any repairs to the engine block once the engine is installed. Removing the power steering pump bracket alone proves this point. I could go on, but to cut to the chase... if you have more than 200,000 miles on your car, clean it up, clean it out, and trade it in. Once you start having mechanical issues (pumps, pulleys, gaskets, sensors, etc.) it will eat your life (money, time, aggravation, etc.) if you let it. You can get a new engine and transmission for $2600.00 to $3000.00, or get a new Chrysler Convertible for $26,000.00 to $30,000.00... your choice.
BTW... the reason for the high dealership quote... they drop the engine... or so I was told at the dealership.
Once again... I do thank you for your time and efforts. Live and Learn.
You can remove the power steering pump bracket bolts (15 mm). I did this job several times. They are not easy to take out but it can be done. I go over this issue in detail and point to exactly where they are and warn people this may be the hardest part of the job.
syyenergy7 thank you for your reply... must admit wasn't really expecting one. And I agree completely... removing the power steering pump bracket was... without a doubt... the most tedious, time consuming, and aggravating part of the job so far. A little over four hours turning the racket one click at a time... for one bolt. I am sure there is some specialty tool (really short handle ratchet) for removing just this one bolt (post original engine installation)... but unfortunately I didn't have one (I don't work on cars for a living). And while spending two days... so far... under the hood and car removing parts to get to the water pump, I have spotted a LOT of little things (mostly gaskets and hoses) that I could, or should replace. I should do them now, since the engine is stripped almost down to the bare block. Maybe I will and see if I can get another 100,000 miles out of it... but I seriously doubt it. Being a Mechanical Engineer by trade, I admit that I am impressed with the amount of work that must of gone into the design of those brackets and how tightly clearances are held. I also understand why engines are built "complete" prior to original installation into the car. I guess when you take a V-6, turn it sideways, attach a FWD transmission to it, then put the whole shooting match in a mid-size car, you have got to sacrifice space somewhere (like putting the battery in front of the driver side front tire behind the splash guard (space saving masterstroke). So It appears that the sacrifice made was on allowing any room to do maintenance work on it. Also, I want to say that I LOVE my ragtop... and other than two starters, three batteries, one AC compressor, and countless oil and a few transmission fluid changes, the car has been an absolute peach. You can not beat driving a convertible through the north Ga. mountains in the fall. Anyway, tomorrow on to removing the crank pulley... I can't hardly wait.
I guess the point I was trying to make was... if your car has over 200,000 miles on it... keeping ahead of the component break downs is just more trouble than its worth given the amount of time and number of items to be removed just to get to the worn out component.
FYI... if you remove the back side valve cover (remove spark plugs first), and remove the hydraulic lift the engine drops down just enough (maybe an inch or two) to allow you to touch that back side power steering bracket bolt. You still can't see it, but at least you can get a short 15mm socket with a universal swivel on it if you feel around for it. Just remember... its one click (maybe two) at a time unless you remove the power steering hoses and then move the wiring harness out of the way.
P.S.. Put a couple of shop towels over the valve studs... because they will cut you to pieces.
Thanks for the response.
A couple of evenings. An average weekend mechanic could do it in a couple days. The power steering bracket bolts are a pain. It took longer because I was videoing. I did do a few of these already before. A mechanic I think takes 6 hours.
Hey Brother, not sure if you will see this bcuz your video is 11years old. If you do then I wanted to thank you as I am about to embark on a timing belt and water pump change. I also have a 99 JXI. I love the dang thing for what it is. Curious, do you still own your car? I have has mine about 4 years now. Thanks
Yes, I still have it. 254,000 miles , runs perfect.
Greta set of videos sir.
Recently I changed my cam seals, in doing so, I neglected to properly tighten the cam gear in the front.What's the possibility of no valve damage if it was running when the gear fell off? Is there a way to check for valve damage without reassembling the whole engine. Any visual clues? Thanks for your assistance and videos.
@silveradotoomuch The Sebring is pretty difficult to work one. Since it is front wheel drive and has good room in the interior and trunk, the mechanical areas are very cramped. The 1996 to 2000 is much better than any of the newer ones. The Mitsubishi engine is durable but the 2,7 engine found in the later models is often not and even harder to work on. I'm going to be very detailed in these vids to make things simpler.
All buckled up; runs smooth. One thing though. Engine light on. Checked all sensors several times and all plugged in. Idles smooth and runs smooth. Any thoughts? Can't thank you enough for your videos and comments. I rented a Haynes manual didn't tell me didley. Your videos really inspired me to take this job on. I wish I had time to watch all your posts. Graci.
They could last longer but if the timing belt breaks you could destroy the engine or at least bend valves. It should be changed as a precaution.
I've been working on the same car for the last week. The timing belt is a PITA! I didnt remove the intake or the bracket for the power steering; I just cut the plastic cover in two (its my car I can do what I want with it). I called my local dealer to see how much they would charge; they said recommend replacing water pump as well. Total= $1000. I paid $900 for the car. Have you had any major engine issues with this vehicle?
Good job on this video. Thanks
One quick question on timing marks. You make your own marks correct? Also, is it safe to say that if you mark all pulleys and their respective position on the block, that you're going to be okay as long as you're on those marks after assembly. I've heard you need to hand crank the engine to confirm valves are not bottoming. Is this a good idea? I've purchased all my parts for a Memorial Day garagefest. Thanks.
Another nice video. Quick question before taking on this project. With 120k miles and no problems to date and all original spark plugs, water pump, serpentine belt and timing chain, would you recommend changing as preventative maintenance or continuing to see how long my luck lasts? Do these components last sometimes to 200k? Thanks.
Need extreme help. removed timing belt w/o checking or know about the marks, put everything back together and car wont start. lined up all marks and still no start. fwd cam has play in it, is that normal? y wont this car start????
Almost guaranteed that you have valve damage. The way to check is to do a compression test.
Hey Syyenergy7! You have really been a lifesaver to me time and again with this car that I love and hate so much. Everything has happened to me with this car including a doozy of an engine fire, but nothing beats this car on a fall nights drive. So the timing belt broke; and my question to you is what's involved in pulling the heads and examining the valves? I have the exhaust manifolds off and figure in for a penny , in for a pound. Thanks Rick
I never pulled the heads on this engine. I almost think the damn thing would be easier to work on if the whole engine/trans was dropped out the bottom.
But I have a hoist and super tall jack stands.
No it should not play in it. You'd be better off taking to someone because if the pistons hit the valves you have a big problem. It's job that requires a lot of attention to detail and is not that easy to do for most people.
I've got a 2000 JXI 2.5 with a little over 110,000 miles on it. I'm not sure if the previous owner had ever changed the timing belt. So I want to get it done because it's a good driving car. I know it's an interference engine too so it has to be done. I will take the cover off and see if the markings are still visible to give me some idea if it's an original belt or aftermarket. Any idea what the labor hours are on this? I've done timing belts before but this is one I will be taking to a shop if it's even worth it. I'm thinking it maybe $500-$600 labor if you know your mechanic and maybe more if you pick just a random mechanic shop.
what about taking the pully bolt out by locking a 1/2 inch drive ratchet to the frame an bumping the motor before taking the motor mount an all the other stuff off.
+Eric Jones That works for old Mopars and Chevys. Not sure if the engine spins the right way in this car.
I've done it on Honda's chevy Malibu an a freestar the Sebring should be the same most engines turn clock wise
For me it didn’t work, let me know if you tried this and if it worked
Sebring Convertible, Fix LED Console Light with EL Inverter
th-cam.com/video/ekKtSPcjXpI/w-d-xo.html
The shift indicator lights on the console typically will not work or the light will go out
intermittently from time to time. This is a common problem on the Chrysler Sebring convertible The problem of the shift indicator light or console light not working is usually a simple solution that arises from a faulty or defective EL inverter. This video shows how to fix it.
How did you get the power steering pulley off, cant seem to find the right tool.
***** The power steering pump pulley does not come off to do this job.
How much did you pay for the timing kit that comes with the water pump, cam and Crackshaft seals, timing belt and tensioner?
How long did it take you to finish this job?
Hi there! Your videos on this engine were fantastic! I heard you mention you wanted to make sure the Block wasn't leaking (if I heard you right?). I replaced the Timing Belt, Water Pump front and back, the Water Inlet Pipe and the Thermostat Housing (Block Side) and all new Gaskets and O-rings. After all that, I still have a slow leak. While it is running it does NOT leak but after cooling and sitting over night it drips. Any help or thoughts? Thanks again for your video, even thought the job was hard your videos took a lot of pain out of the process!!!
Daniel Gavin I forgot to mention the leak is and has been on the Timing Belt side.
Daniel Gavin It could be the cam seals. I did a couple videos on them. They are a pain to do. If you take off the upper front timing cover, you can see if the front one is leaking.
syyenergy7 Do you think it would be the cam seals if it's Antifreeze leaking though? Sorry, not sure I mentioned that earlier?
Daniel Gavin Cam seals is an OIL leak. It could be the crossover pipe.
1999 Chrysler Sebring Convertible Water Inlet pipe 1 of 2
th-cam.com/video/e1-j5cqQpsM/w-d-xo.html
1999 Chrysler Sebring Convertible Water Inlet pipe 2 of 2
th-cam.com/video/nXzhLNnV2f8/w-d-xo.html
If you see water in the valley of the engine and it's not the water pump leaking, that pipe could be the problem.
Let's do some math. 13 divided by 16 is .8125 inches times 25.4(equivalent to 1 inch). Get your calculators...... 20.6375 millimeters; I can guarantee you a 13/16 socket will not fit on that bolt. 7 divided by 8 is .875 inches times 25.4 is 22.225, or a little bigger than 22 millimeters soooo.. a 22 millimeter, or a 7/8 inch socket will fit, but 13/16 will not.
it's mitchabitch
Please every on do not listen to the al bore guy you will bend a valve
Craig Stanley What the fuk are you talking about ?!
He was talking about sticking rope in a cylinder to stop the piston from moving. The goal was to stop the crank from turning to Posen the balancer boat. Problem, piston would rise causing the rope to push against the valves.
Damn auto correct
Craig Stanley I didn't put rope in the cylinder or say to do that.
Notice how I put al bore and not syyenergy7 lol