Awesome analysis and solution ! I occasionally got a glimpse of my mileage and sometimes had to guess at it when I used my car for work; never again. Thanks so much for the great video. Much appreciated
Had same problem on my 97 Sebring, took out the dash and tried this. Happy to report, very easy to do and worked like a charm. Thank you for the very informative video!
Pulled apart my 97 per your vid and found a broken joint. Touched up the ones shown and reinstalled and works perfectly. Thank you very much for your effort.
Great video. Just fixed our 1997 Stratus (we are 2nd owner), only 186,000 Km! The odometer was intermittently going out for the last 6 months, and just quit completely today so I did the repair. The PCB did not look to be burned or overheated in my case; just the bad solder joints on the resistors.
Jurek Pol: R101, R105: 12Ω, 3-4W R106: 13Ω, 2W Source: www.automotiveforums.com/t232004-intermittent_tachometer_and_odometer.html Replace them to resistrors with bigger power rating (7W and 4W). If it doesn't work then most likely you need to replace the Q63 and Q54 transistors too. Also with bigger power rating.
I made this repair on my daughters car. It worked for a couple of months & it now looks like it has happened again. I am going to go back in a second time to do the repair. This time my plan is to glue some transistor heat sinks to the resistors at fault, using some porcelain epoxy.
+ThePhuku Question for "ThePhuku": Can you explain more about the "porcelain epoxy" you plan to use for the resistor heat sinks? I'm not familiar with that. I AM a heavily experienced Electronics Technician, but haven't come across the "porcelain epoxy" before. Obviously, it has to be a high heat capable epoxy, and also has to be able to adhere to the substrate of both the resistors and the heat sink (aluminum). I think when I do mine I might try to determine if there is room back there to put in higher wattage resistors. If there is a lot of room, I might fully replace the resistors with larger ones (physically larger) and also "stand them off" from the PCB a little bit, like even a half inch, if there is enough room. I'll also plan to attach heat sinks to them, if there is room. Something like one of these, perhaps?> www.amazon.com/Devcon-Epoxy-Bathtub-Repair-Almond/dp/B000NCUTCO www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=11492803 www.menards.com/main/home-decor/crafts/specialty-paint-finishes/homax-white-porcelain-chip-fix-2-part-epoxy/p-1955070.htm I know this thread is several month old, but if you get a chance to respond, I'd appreciate it. Thanks
It's so weird to see how much is shared between the Neon, Sebring and Cirrus. That dash looks like someone took the steering wheel off a Neon and stuck it on a Cirrus. They even have the same gauge problem with the solder joints.
You also can swapp the whole dashboard out with a Chrysler cirrus also I did that and it worked perfectly I now have orange dashboard lights now still though Plymouth breeze and dodge stratus will work also
@@ericcorbrion2421 Whether your odometer display is working or not, your miles are still being tracked properly. The module that tracks your miles is completely separate from the dashboard display. If I remember correctly, that module is mounted somewhere under the back seat.
Nice job on showing a great fix that not many people know about. Did you shoot this on a phone the whole time? I think that's part of what I liked. Got any other fixes?
Sorry to hear that. Sometimes those connections get so badly burned out that there's no metal left on the circuit board to solder the resistors to. I've had that happen to me once or twice.
Awesome analysis and solution ! I occasionally got a glimpse of my mileage and sometimes had to guess at it when I used my car for work; never again. Thanks so much for the great video. Much appreciated
Had same problem on my 97 Sebring, took out the dash and tried this.
Happy to report, very easy to do and worked like a charm.
Thank you for the very informative video!
Pulled apart my 97 per your vid and found a broken joint. Touched up the ones shown and reinstalled and works perfectly. Thank you very much for your effort.
You hit the nail on the head, Mrcorbina. followed you video and jumped for joy when my 97 sebring convertible's cluster came to life. KUDO'S
Great video. Just fixed our 1997 Stratus (we are 2nd owner), only 186,000 Km! The odometer was intermittently going out for the last 6 months, and just quit completely today so I did the repair. The PCB did not look to be burned or overheated in my case; just the bad solder joints on the resistors.
Repaired mine in no time this morning. Thank you for the video.
Thanks for the video I fixed my instrument cluster in about 30 min start to finish. I almost paid 100 for that lol.
Jurek Pol:
R101, R105: 12Ω, 3-4W
R106: 13Ω, 2W
Source: www.automotiveforums.com/t232004-intermittent_tachometer_and_odometer.html
Replace them to resistrors with bigger power rating (7W and 4W).
If it doesn't work then most likely you need to replace the Q63 and Q54 transistors too. Also with bigger power rating.
I made this repair on my daughters car. It worked for a couple of months & it now looks like it has happened again. I am going to go back in a second time to do the repair. This time my plan is to glue some transistor heat sinks to the resistors at fault, using some porcelain epoxy.
+ThePhuku
Question for "ThePhuku":
Can you explain more about the "porcelain epoxy" you plan to use for the resistor heat sinks? I'm not familiar with that. I AM a heavily experienced Electronics Technician, but haven't come across the "porcelain epoxy" before.
Obviously, it has to be a high heat capable epoxy, and also has to be able to adhere to the substrate of both the resistors and the heat sink (aluminum).
I think when I do mine I might try to determine if there is room back there to put in higher wattage resistors. If there is a lot of room, I might fully replace the resistors with larger ones (physically larger) and also "stand them off" from the PCB a little bit, like even a half inch, if there is enough room. I'll also plan to attach heat sinks to them, if there is room.
Something like one of these, perhaps?>
www.amazon.com/Devcon-Epoxy-Bathtub-Repair-Almond/dp/B000NCUTCO
www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=11492803
www.menards.com/main/home-decor/crafts/specialty-paint-finishes/homax-white-porcelain-chip-fix-2-part-epoxy/p-1955070.htm
I know this thread is several month old, but if you get a chance to respond, I'd appreciate it.
Thanks
It's so weird to see how much is shared between the Neon, Sebring and Cirrus. That dash looks like someone took the steering wheel off a Neon and stuck it on a Cirrus. They even have the same gauge problem with the solder joints.
This was very helpful. Thank you.
This truly was an easy fix. I also have not seen the odometer reading consistently for awhile......Thanks mrcorbina for a worthwhile video....ô¿ô
Great job , thank you . have same issue.
Great job. Great video. Kudos for sure!
Constant flashing of the check light when checking the computer with the ignition switch Chrysler Stratus v6 97_2.5
Thank you!!!
Nice job!
You also can swapp the whole dashboard out with a Chrysler cirrus also I did that and it worked perfectly I now have orange dashboard lights now still though Plymouth breeze and dodge stratus will work also
WOOO man you great,thanks for time.
great ! !! I have the same problem .
just wonder what are the resistors that you are fixing. I have same problem but I need to change them
good vidéo! do you know if this olution fix also odometer issue , like increase and decrease values ?
Not sure I understand your question, but all this does is make it work again. You can't change the odometer value, which would be illegal anyway.
@@mrcorbina values in my odometer increasind and decresing,
@@ericcorbrion2421 Whether your odometer display is working or not, your miles are still being tracked properly. The module that tracks your miles is completely separate from the dashboard display. If I remember correctly, that module is mounted somewhere under the back seat.
@@mrcorbina thanks for the information, do you know the name please of yhis module?
@@ericcorbrion2421 No I do not. I'm sure a little googling would turn something up.
I`m just having problem with Speedometer stopped working will all this still be needed to do??? Thank you
YEEHAW! Great tutorial.
Great input Steve Shouting House! Thanks for your contribution!! ;o)
THANK YOU
what he has done with the two blue things,
Nice job on showing a great fix that not many people know about. Did you shoot this on a phone the whole time? I think that's part of what I liked. Got any other fixes?
+Tom Keaveney Thanks. Actually shot it on an old Kodak P850 camera. No other fixes at this point, though.
What did you fix, just re-solder the tops???
Resoldered those connections that had been weakened by excessive heat.
Didn't work :(
Sorry to hear that. Sometimes those connections get so badly burned out that there's no metal left on the circuit board to solder the resistors to. I've had that happen to me once or twice.
Get a fiberglass scratch brush pen and etch out the traces nearby and solder them to close the circuit or run jumpers.
blah blah blah blah