1996 to 2000 Chrysler Sebring Convertible, TIMING BELT & WATER PUMP 2 of 4
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ย. 2024
- How to on changing the water pump and timing belt of the 1996 to 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible with the 2.5 Mitsubishi engine.
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Ya I see, it's just the middle one that's giving me a problem, on a ruff average how long does a change of a water pump take. I'm an experienced mechanic , but never worked on these vehicles? Just wondering, hey thanks for your help and videos, they really help'
The pump itself? It should have been just swung out of the way. But use a lot of light and take your time. It's hard to see in that cramped area. I'll often use a few lights. I like to clean everything also with the hot water hooked up to the pressure washer. It makes it a lot easy to do things ( in my mind) when you are working in a clean area. And yes, the dam Sebring is pretty hard to work on. Most will say that, for sure.
I put a deep socket on the end and a short extension. This is the worst part of this job. Pretty much everyone has a problem with these bolts. Plus they are on there very tight from the factory.
15 mm socket with a swivel head ratchet. I had to take off the upper intake manifold to get at the top bolts. One bolt comes out and the other one is loosened. Then you can swing the power steering pump bracket out of the way to take off the upper rear timing cover.
I assume you changed the CPS when you say you changed the "sensor below the distributor". First try giving it a shot of starting fluid just to make sure it is not fuel related. Also replug in all connections. Everything, all sensors, the PCM and everything. Sometimes these cars do wacky things because something is not making good contact. Often that could be why there is an intermittent problem. Check for codes If no codes and still no spark, get an OEM CPS & install w' the right gap.
Yes, the 15 mm power steering bolts are an extreme bitch (they are on very tight from the factory). I used a small swivel-head ratchet and put an extension on the handle to get more leverage. I used the small swivel head ratchet because it is hard to get in there and put put a deep socket and an extension on the handle to give me as much leverage as possible. Yes, it is a "bitch". Most people hate loosening those 15 mm power steering bracket bolts. I dread it too.
You loosen the idler pulley. You don't have to take it off.
Thank You I think I am down to the distributor and a new timing belt. Your videos are great - thankls for your help.
Hey Torolan, I am having the exact problem like you as my rotor is pointing to the #6 spark plug. I want to know if you did fix your car so you can help me to point the rotor to the # 1 spark plug.
Ok where u able to get a pipe on the other end of the ratchet for added leverage?
following our subject on my woman's 1999 chrysler sebring JXI , i have changed the CPS ( I must say it was very hard to do so ) , and the vehicle still cranks but won't start , so I phoned a good friend and had to travel to him and barrow his scanner , and i found the following reading : CAT/ O2s/ HTR / EGR flashing on screen , the scanner could not read any codes displaying : the vehicle computer and engine DTS has no memory to collect , but those prior four names where flashing . i believe now it has to do with EGR and the hoses . .
thanks again for all the help , much appreciate it .
No but they were on very tight.
If everything is lined up right it should be fine. Make sure your timing marks are perfect. The distributor only goes in one way and same with the rotor. The cap has all the wires marked on it so double check that all the wires are on correctly.
Yes, it fixed the leak. The weep hole for the water pump runs into the valley of the motor under the fuel rails and water pipe.
Good news I got it off, it's about time, I got the swivel head ratchet and that did the trick, thanks again, my next thing thought is after you got those bolts out of that bracket how did you get it to slide back to get the timing belt cover off? The power steering bolts are all loose and the belt is off!
my friend has a 99 sebring and her mom overfilled the oil and the car stopped. I drained the oil and added the right amount but the plugs were completely covered. Now it turns over but won't start. Any suggestions? Please. there is spark and you can smell the fuel when trying to start it.
Daytime running light 1997 chrysler sebring sun sensor
Hello sir, help is needed here I can't get my rotor to point to #1 sprk plug, I set the timing to compression on the #1 piston on this 2.5L jxi after that the rotor is pointing to #6. This has me going crazy.....
Definitely change out the plugs if they were oily. I'd try a little starting fluid too. That could help it start even if there is a borderline problem.
One of the top power steering bracket bolts stays in but loose. That would be the bolt toward the passenger fender that stays in loose. Then you can swing the bracket up and that leaves room to take the upper timing over off. If you notice I cut a slot (hole) in the rear upper timing cover in case I need to check the valve timing someday. This way I don't need to take much off to check if all three timing marks are lined up.
The symptoms were often different. At times the car ran fine but it would also run rough and also hesitate. The computer kept trying to compensate for the valve timing being off, so it displayed a number of symptoms. I cut and oval window in the rear upper timing cover so if I ever have to check the valve timing in the future, that will make it a lot easier to do so.
I got the bolts out but is won't move or anything so I can't get the top cover off any ideas on how to get it out????
You definitely missed a bolt. Get a STRONG light and look at the
whole bracket. You likely missed a bolt on the bottom.
One bolt is buried in a corner and it gets covered with grease.
Thanks I got it
Sebring Convertible, Fix LED Console Light with EL Inverter
th-cam.com/video/ekKtSPcjXpI/w-d-xo.html
The shift indicator lights on the console typically will not work or the light will go out
intermittently from time to time. This is a common problem on the Chrysler Sebring convertible The problem of the shift indicator light or console light not working is usually a simple solution that arises from a faulty or defective EL inverter. This video shows how to fix it.
that bolt on the back that hooks on the manifold to the bracket that is hell to get to an I haven't even gotten to the real stuff yet lol. I think this car is going to test how much patients I actually do have. If I fix this water pump issue an replace the timing belt I ought to be able to fix anything lol.
+Eric Jones Yeah, professional mechanics don't like to work on this car.
+syyenergy7 how do you get the alternator off I got to replace it any way.
+Eric Jones Chrysler Sebring, Alternator Removal
th-cam.com/video/t1CTr1XpT2A/w-d-xo.html
Hey syyenrgy7 how exactly did you get the bolts of on the back of the motor that holds the power steering pump bracket in place? My hands are getting cut up lol. This is a bear!!!
Synnergy, I am 100% convinced that the engineering team who worked on the Sebring were practicing sadists. You have to purposely engineer this to make it so hard to work on. Simply bolts facing the wrong way or just short on clearance so that you can't fit a wrench on them. Putting the thermostat near the back bottom of the engine? You have to take the EGR tube off for every job. Why is the EGR so far forward when the throttle body is in the back?
Thanks for the information.
My 2000 Chrysler Sebring jxi convertible is leaking coolant pretty bad. It started about 3 weeks ago when the temperature dropped to like 13° and I forgot to add antifreeze I think a had too much water at the time not enough antifreeze. Anyways it seems to be coming from right above the pulley tensioner or running off something behind the bottom timing cover and finding its way out there. I don't have enough money to get looked at. I work 10 minutes away from home, I go about 35 mph the whole way. Before I leave to work I have to add about half gallon of coolant to fill it to top of cap. Then when I get off work I have to fill it back up witch is another half gallon of coolant. this is an everyday thing. It leaks even when car is not running and then stops when coolant level reaches the breach where ever that might be so after half gallon of coolant disperse it stops basically. My back timing belt cover was never on my car so today I pushes on the belt and it was pretty loose I then stuck my finger on the water pump pulley and could turn it freely without belt being involved. But after driving today the belt seems tight again. My tools got stolen from my car or I would try doing this job myself, I'm pretty mechanically inclined and don't trust auto shops one bit. I usually fix everything my self. But this Sebring is tricky. So was just wondering if you had any clues where I'm leaking from, from the info I just gave you oh and my oil seems fine no milkyness I don't believe I've cracked a head I hope. And would you happen to be near southern Ohio by any chance, that would be awesome, help please! You're videos about the Sebring are very informative.I just can't pin point my problem.
I think it's the water pump or the pipe going into the pump leaking and not the head.
thank you for all the information on this particular vehicle , in which my girlfriend has a 1999 sebring convertible JXI 2.5 V 6 mitsu engine , i tested all the relays , cleaned the banks ( relays and fuses mounting banks ) , did direct jump , and it still crank but won't start , i am thinking it has to do with its timing chain tenssioner and timing chain it self , it does have over 130,000 miles on its odometer . the sparks are champion made with double platinum class and i did that with complete replacement of its wire and distributor last summer it was driving great , till last week .
in the events do you have any other suggestions ? thanks in advance
+AnunnakiThe1 It should start i the belt jumped 1 or 2 teeth. If it fumped a lot you'd hear it hitting the valves.
Quick How to - Engine Troubleshooting- SPARK & FUEL
th-cam.com/video/aP8ecG1Y7wo/w-d-xo.html
syyenergy7 thanks for the reply , I have tested the fuel pump, fuel filter , and it does work , perhaps it is the coils or spark plugs , i shall trouble shoot them by tomorrow and let you know how it goes , I will also check the fuel pressure ( return solenoid valve ) if it is clogged up or jammed ?? ) . thank you again for all the help and constructive information you have provided for millions to ease our life hardship .
Hello syyenergy7 I have been working on my 2000 sebring converible for months - what were your stmptoms when you knew the timing belt jumped? I have had a tune up, replaced the IAC valve, ECM, EGR, Crankshaft Sensor and the car still bogs out and stalls after stopping at red lights.. Any help would be greatly appreciated - thx
I'll check that out thanks!
I think the water pump & timing belt is supposed to be 6 hours labor. A lot of mechanics find this car hard to work on. One thing that is not well known is that this bigger car is the same weight as an Eclipse. A 3.0 Eclipse engine can fit easy. They should have used that one instead. Basically the same block. Simple swap.
Only 2 bolts of the top of the bracket. I thought there were 4 bolts total in the bracket.
Oh I see what you did from a past comment thank you!!
There's three bolts all together?
On Amazon (dot) com just search "swivel head ratchet". That is what I used but that is not the only thing that works. I did this job on a few Sebrings and I know those two top bolts of the power steering pump brackets are difficult and everyone bitches at them. Use a mirror and light so you can see exactly where they are. That will help, so you can see exactly what you have to do. The real problem is that they are on super tight from the factory. Everyone hates this part of this job.
Ok that makes sense, I still wasn't able to move that bracket with three bolts off. Lol
got it out yay