How to remove surface rust
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ม.ค. 2021
- www.proshaper.com
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How to remove surface rust!
A lot of people question why Wray prefers aluminum, the answer is simple, RUST! During the summer months in the shop it becomes really humid and some of our work gets surface rust. In this video Wray goes over the different way we fight the rust demon!
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Thanks for the helpful information Wray. I very much appreciate it! Greetings from The Netherlands. I wish you all the best and stay healthy in this terrible pandemic.
I like to use white vinegar for rust removal, works very well, is cheap and not toxic.
Up here in Ontario, Canada several ways I remove rust.
(1) Metal parts like Snow Blowers, Lawn Mower Decks and Car Parts. Parts disassembled. I strip the paint with paint remover, then use muriatic acid to eat into the heavy rust. I keep brushing the acid on until it's all clean then wash with water. The Navel Jelly or a mild acid is then used to prevent flash rust once water is used. As per video sun or heat gun to dry metal. Then use a metal primer.
(2) Electrolysis! A tub of water is used. Part hangs on a hook in water. Part is hooked up to a car battery charger. Part is charged negative. Waste pieces of steel are hung around the edge of the plastic tub and wired in series.the waste steel pieces are charged positive. Job sits 24 hours, all the rust is transferred from part to waste steel plates around tub. At this point you need to use SOS soap pads, scotch bite, or a wire brush just to clean the black dirt left.
Thank you sir. Thank you! You have no idea what you have done for me and my project. It's actually my dad's but I'm gonna finish it now thanks to you
Thank you, nice to know we are not alone in our battle with the Rust Demon! All the tips were great. Have to work on an old band saw I rescued myself.
ACF 50... brilliant at keeping corrosion at bay especially when storing metal (any metal) parts. Hundreds of uses, you'll love it.
I work as a wire rigger for a company that serves the local fishing fleet with all they require for putting to sea over in the Shetland isles off the north of Scotland. We stock gallon drums of both hydrochloric and phosphoric acid for cleaning rust streaks and components on the trawlers. The hydrochloric is very strong and great for quickly getting rid of heavy rust but needs to be neutralised quickly after use or the steel will rust even quicker. It's also dangerous to use and you must use protective clothing and also use outside on a windy day, as it'll burn the insides of your nose, throat and lungs!! The phosphoric is good to use after the hydrochloric has done the hard work as it will leave a slightly protective coating. I've also used catering strength vinegar which I get from wholesalers. This stuff needs to be watered down 25 - 1 before it's fit for human consumption! It's cheap, safe to use and can be used to fill a tank for overnight soaking. The only drawback is your garage may smell like a fish and chip shop! Great video and fantastic channel, thank you for taking the time to make all these videos and sharing your knowledge.
The smell, not such a bad thing. Thanks.
ive been using both hydrocholic which works great but a lot of downsides, mainly the vapours rusting any exposed metal in the area, plus after washing it off the bare metal rusts fast. i tried phosphoric (85%) because ive heard people claim you can put it on, take it off then leave the metal bare protected but that hasnt been my experience. i put that on, it went white which is normal, i wiped that off, then went back the next day and it was orange rusty. i read that also needs neutralising so i tried then then my metal went purple from the reaction which i aint seen other peoples do. maybe 85% is too much, some have said 35% is the norm. im just having a hard time getting my metal clean and to stay clean like in body shops. this is a car restoration btw.
@@mrjynx23 yes I will agree that sometimes using phosphoric acid to cleean rusty mild steel it will go white, then after a while rust will then start to appear. I used the pink phosphoric acid that you can buy in autostores but can't remember the name of it just now on my mini when I was fixing it and it worked very well for stopping rust reappearing again. Obviously there was some thing that I did then that I haven't always done. Maybe the moisture content in the air at the time made a big difference, or something similar?
A light coat of Fluid Film, on bare steel will keep it from rusting for many years , and it is body shop safe ! I coated my drill press column years ago and it still looks great.
thank you so much, i was already looking at these products and was unsure if I should buy them or otherson the market.... THERES ALOT TO CHOOSE FROM. but your video gave me all the proof i need. im definetly buying that Loctite naval jelly and the Klean strip metal prep!
Excellent content-as usual !! Thanks, Wray.
Great job showing about moving rust , I learned something I did not no. Thanks and have a great day
For a very inexpensive, very effective immersion rust remover, try citric acid. It comes as white crystals (looks just like sugar) which you just dissolve in water. The stuff I can get most easily is food grade (it's the flavouring in lemonade). 10kg was about £30 delivered, and that goes a very very long way. Enough for hundreds of litres, and more than enough for my all the non bodywork parts for my car restoration project which need rust and / or zinc plating stripping . The project is a total strip down, with me removing all rust and zinc plating form all other parts of the car via this method (I've had all bodywork stripped professionally via pyrolysis oven and phosphoric acid). I also only sandblast (actually aluminium oxide blast) parts which fit in my small blasting cabinet, and which are not body panels.
Dissolve enough citric acid crystals for it to get to about 3pH, which is about as strong as it gets. That's not acidic enough to burn my skin, although I don't intentionally get it on my hands, and if I do, I rinse it off. I remove all loose rust with wire brushes, and thoroughly degrease first. The citric acid removes all remaining rust or removes the plating from most parts overnight. It's as good as any commercial immersion type rust remover product I've tried, but far cheaper. No scrubbing or residue to remove. You can speed the reaction considerably by heating the citric acid to about 60-70 degrees C, and it is also very effective at removing zinc plating. You can re-use the acid many times - I usually only change it because mould has started growing on the surface, rather than because it's stopped working.
After rinsing the parts off thoroughly, remove the majority of the water with an old towel, and put them in a cardboard box with the opening pointing sideways. Put a fan heater around 6" away from the box, aiming into it, and leave it on for half an hour. Inside the box can easily get to 50 degrees C, and heats the parts fairly evenly all around, so there is no need for turning them or any other effort. I never get any flash rusting form the rinsing drying them this way, as long as I've got them drying within minutes of rinsing.
you brush this on and let it sit for how long?
@@pattygq Submerge parts in it. I degrease first (caustic soda / lye / sodium hydroxide) if necessary, remove all loose rust, then usually 25 - 48 hours is enough it depends on how heavy the rust is and on the temperature. You can make it much faster if you heat the citric acid to about 60 degrees C.
@@richardjones38 Gotcha, thanks for clarifying.
Ever tried spraying it on? I've got surface corrosion on the underbody of my car and I do not plan on removing parts to submerge it, was planning to iron brush it, degrease, warm acid spray, clean and dry, apply zinc primer and then add waxoyl.
@@sageerjawaid3953 It isn't a fast process, so the only way spraying it on would work id if you would keep the spray going for many hours. Rather like Wray was doing to the underside of that enormous Cadillac some of his videos with Rust 911. It's definitely not something I would try, with either citric acid or any other rust removal product.
Particularly when it's a full restoration like Wray's Cadillac, to me the only way is immersion of the whole shell in phosphoric acid after stripping all paint, filler and seam sealer in a pyrolysis oven. I've has that done to a project car I'm working on, and the end result is exceptional. Quite good value too. All of it's small parts have been immersed in citric acid after aluminium oxide blasting.
this is THE question "how to remove rust". Cool tip, thanks for sharing !!!
Thanks for showing what works! Everybody has a snake oil for rust. Appreciate seeing this!
Thank you Wray
I learn a better way of doing things in your videos
I never sandblast sheet metal ,I agree totally
I’ve always giggled seeing Le Car in the background of your videos wondering why it would be taking up valuable shop space!
My student Esteban has a dream of turning it into a R-5. I suggested he only use it as a measuring tool to make a tube framed aluminum body R-5.
I've restored a dozen cars and I use Ospho, acid a liquid, In gallon jugs, spray it on with a used hand sprayer, like window cleaner, let it stand til dry. Sand lightly then paint. Rust is a living thing, this stuff is great and lasts forever. You can find it In gallons or quarts in boat supplies stores or paint stores. After it dries it will last for years if kept in a dry place
I have a sheet of steel in my shop since 2004 and is still rust free. A gallon will cost about $25 , but will last for years. My dump truck bed stayed rust free after regular applications when not in use.
Hey I’m currently working on removing rust from my 1990 gmc pickup and was wondering if you could provide me with some visuals of your rust removing process. Thanks!
@@adriantenorio6449 Hey Adrian, my method is simple, depending on how much or deep the rust is. If it's deep rust you should, but not necessary sand heavy. but if it's just surface rust spraying it with small amount of Ospho ( retail name) it's phosphoric acid. Rust is a living organism that's why is grows. Spray the rusty area and it will foam up like peroxide on a cut. Wait until it dries, and it should be the color of black with some white residue. On the bottle or gallon jug instructions reads how to administer. You can paint over Ospho that ads a rust protection. This stuff is terrific as long as you don't get it wet before painting. Wal-Mart use to carry it but a paint shop, boat supplies store or some auto parts store like NAPA. If you buy it buy the gallon, it will last for a long time because a little goes a long way, I hope this info helps. buzz me if you have more ?
Thanks ,I have a 1978 Camaro to restore and the roof has a lot of heavy rust but still solid.
I like to use electrolysis for ferrous metals. You just need sodium carbonate (washing soda), sacrificial steel (like pieces of expanded steel sheet), a automotive battery charger, water, and a non-metal tank large enough to hold it all. I’ve decrusted parts as big as a class iii trailer hitch before priming, painting, and fluid film. It’s especially effective on the inside of channels where it’s hard to reach. Non-toxic too.
you need to be aware off hydrogen embrittlement if used on anything important like steering or structural
@@dalewestlake2137 Hi Dale, I myself would not use it for that or to do brake components. Thats just my 2 cents
Good luck doing that with an entire car.
Great video. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Good show. You are the type of vendor I could trust!
You have some great ideas...THANK YOU
Excellent info. Thank you very much.
Great info. The 34 Ford fender looks like the one we copied in class years ago!
Thanks Dave! Might be.
Thanks for Sharing... Very Helpful
Beautiful work on the band saw! Breaks my heart to see a cast iron machine go to scrap, or worse, left to continue to rust outside.
I've used a weak mix of white vinegar and water to clean steel and iron parts of a Southbend Lathe as of late.
The saw has a super heavy duty cast table and a lot of cast components, but the main frame is fabricated steel. It is a great saw, that was left outside, now it is reborn.
I've used vinegar with good success too.
Who says "Rust Never Sleeps?" This guy has perfected a technique which at the very least makes it take a lengthy nap! Thanks for sharing the tips!
I have been using phosphoric acid for many years. The acid reacts with the iron oxide (which is porous) and leaves a layer of iron phosphate which is not. Once it's dry it is a decent primer for painting. Naval jelly it's just for vertical surfaces. The only problem is that iron phosphate is water soluble and goes away if left outside.
I actually leave my steel parts to rust a bit and then acid wash them to have the protection layer or as a primer. And you might get lucky and buy a lightly rusted piece at a discount.
Add saran wrap over the Naval jelly and it holds it right in place
@@proshaper gaddayum that's a beautifully genius idea
@@proshaper hi, what do you suggest for restoration of undercarriage of old car I have on jacks stands in garage? Can’t really wrap under floor with plastic wrap? Thanks
The worst humidity and risk of rust here in the UK is the moment bare metal is exposed to the atmosphere atany time of day, 24hrs a day, seven days a week and 365days a year and for every year!
Just curious, how hot and humid does it get in the U.K.? Right now, St. Louis Missouri is 29C with 70% humidity. Later today it will get up to 35C, and still be humid.
88F and 95F for we Americans.
@@firstmkb Temperatures vary during a typical summer from cool 13degree C to hot 30+ degrees C. No two summers alike because the UK is an island where the furthest you can be from the sea is 70miles.
Humidity, varies from rarely low to regular medium and high or just regular rain or mist and fog which can last most of the day. Different areas have slightly different climates.
Factor in the quality of the steel and you can have rust showing in a matter of hours if outside and unprotected.
Thanks for your comment.
Agreed. And even worse here in Houston, TX!!!
Before you get goop everywhere, try a piece of tinfoil folded into a square and a small bucket of water. Get the part wet and rub the tinfoil in circular motion. "Just liked wetsanding". A dark paste starts to form. Its cleaning the rust off and making its own polishing compound.
I detailed a spot rusted Harley like this! Amazingly simple!
Does it have to be real tin foil or can it be aluminum foil?
@@blueacz5457 aluminum foil. I'm old.... Used to be tin foil.
@@commonsense3505 you're a life saver boss
@@blueacz5457 what did you try it on?
@@commonsense3505 my 1992 lexus es 300. It's supposed to go into the shop for a paint touch up cuz some bozo fucked it up but there trying to raise the initial quote bc of surface rust so I'm just gonna remove it myself
Try using regular house hold vinegar, dry it real well and put some car wax on it. Sometimes on really rusty parts, i soak them for a few days scrub them, dry them, then with a wire or brass brush, clean them down to a bright metal finish. The metal cleans right up. If you want you could rinse with a basic solution made with baking soda.
I'm from CT and have high humity since we are nearer Long Island Sound.
Vinegar works awesome!
To restore my old 71-73's mustangs parts, I have this permanent bath with water/phosphoric acid used over and over. I drop the parts in and they're ready for the next day. For the body/big parts that you can't submerge, I have stopped using gels. Instead, after a good degrease, I brush a mix of water and acid that I buy per quart at 75% +-50-50, and keep it wet by spraying a mix of water with 20% acid every now and then to keep it wet. After few hours, I rinse with soda/water. then air dry/heatgun. Much less efforts and better results than with gels requiring extra brushing to keep the contact to surface. Two liters/quarts ($25) were enough to bring back to life/save hundreds of original rusty parts and hardware of the 2 cars. (which I then zinc plate before paint)
Would love a dm for more info on this Fabrice. I got a 75 Celica GT with a rusted out hood. Hood is very large body part. Let me know if you have time to discuss this.
@@TheTrendz24 sure no prob, no idea how you dm on utube tho
To prevent rust on machine tools I use New finish the once a year car polish in the orange bottle, two coats keeps my mill, lathe etc rust free a very long time.
Any kind of paste wax, e.g. Johnson's Floor Wax will do that, or a drying type of oil - boiled linseed or tung oil. All cheap and available at grocery or big box hardware stores.
My problem is the "once a year" part. What I really need is "once an ever" treatment!
Great information. Thanks for sharing.
Brillo pads work good for cleaning the metal, because there is something in the soap that they use that seals the metal and prevents the rust from coming back.
Thank you Sir great video so many brands if rust convertors some prepare the steel for painting others require a primer sealer I agree steel can be a nightmare you have great knowledge thanks for sharing Sir
I've found the liquid Phosphoric work much better than any gell as it penetrates and allows the conversion reaction to take place quicker and deeper. Once the iron oxide has been converted to iron phosphate it seals the remaining iron/steel and prevents further oxidation no need to neutralise with detergent just wipe off excess with a damp rag. Once dried and scale removed it can be primed and painted.
Very good demonstration.
.......watched Robert Murray Smith using water pressure sandblasting . Then he also rigged up a rotary tumble sand cleaner, then vibratory sand cleaner. I got a u toob ad recently for not sandblasting but dry ice grains used instead of sand . My theory also is that acrylic paint contributes to rust as it ages and gets changed by the elements .
Thanks for the great tips!!
Great tips , appreciate it, one of my arch nemesis - rust !!
Ah! Ze Renault Le Car? I see the guys up in Canada on the Cold war motors channel resurrected one which was in pretty nice shape ,for a winter beater. 😁
Great tips. Thanks.
I just wire wheeled my entire truck frame with a angle grinder, degreased it then naval jellied the entire thing and it came out fantastic.
Love the channel and the content, please keep it coming, what do you think of the pressure washer attachments that pick up sand and blast the part clean?
In some cases sandblasting works perfectly. As long as it doesn't damage the metal and come out of cracks later then it is fine.
8:17 If a person want's to preserve paint try using Bar Keepers Friend in the powder form... not the liquid. Little water, little BKF and you can knock most of the rust out. At least reduce it down to the worst spots where a different solution may be needed.
BKF Its acid and polish mixed together messes up your hands when in contact for long.
I've been using that concrete etch on small parts for years... I just pour it into a plastic container and dump all my nuts, bolts and small stuff in... An hour later it looks like brand new... If there's something that won't fit in the container, I soak a paper towel in the acid, then lay that towel on the part that needs to be cleaned. Makes the liquid work like the jelly. You did a wonderful job on that band saw.
Thanks, Frank my volunteer restored the Band saw. I should have credited him in the video.
@@proshaper were can you buy that rust 911. Thanks
@@iancameron1662 I offer it in my Amazon store. www.amazon.com/shop/proshaper
Be careful dumping your nuts in that stuff. It can burn.
Thank you Ray! Great stuff always! Working on derusting a 1970 Camaro...Do I have to prime with epoxy primer right after this kind of treatment? Car is outside and don't have a garage. What do you recommend? Can I call you please?
Applying automatic transmission fluid to raw metal does a great job preventing humidity rust from forming. It doesn't do much to remove rust that is already there though.
@Will Swift You would have to be pretty dim to use it as a permanent undercoat, but it works for preventing it from rusting while in storage or while you are working on it.
Molasses at 1:9 with water works as a very slow (days/weeks) gentle rust remover on large panels & can help preserve paint on them as well.
Thank you for the tip.
I'll keep this in mind and will try it out on some test pieces. In the right case, such as an antique artifact when you want to preserve as much of the original as possible, this sounds like the right ways to go.
Its good to have multiple tools in the bag o'tricks to call upon for each situation.
@@RobertLBarnard There are lots of vids on this on youtube. There are some expectations to go along with it. The process *smells* and allows for surface growth. I'm sure there are probably additives that could stop that and help the process (EDTA? Citric Acid? Aquarium products) .. but no one has made a vid on that. Also the process seems much better on Steel and gentle to Aluminum than on cast iron. Paint doesn't always survive, but survives better than some other methods. But it's super cheap and works in those hidden areas you'd love to put evapo-rust on but can't afford that kind of volume.
@@ferrariguy8278
I think of things like my grandfathers model steam engine (he designed and built at age 17 in 1903), which my uncle rebuilt in the early 1970's, that deserves this kind if care in restoration (if this heirloom ever needs it). Or my very first bike, now a 50+ year old Schwinn Stingray, metallic blue with crumbling banana seat and original (but cracking) tires. :)
What is rust? I live in Las Vegas. Definitely glad I don't have to deal with that. Anything rusty around here came from somewhere else!
These days lasers are the latest and greatest thing for rust removal if you're willing and able to pay for the technology, for which the cost is pretty steep at the moment, but it does work better, cleaner and in much more user friendly fashion than sand blasting and other methods. For surfaces such as the interior of that Renault hood however, your method makes more sense. I do love using Naval Jelly for paint or rust removal.
Wait for my Rust 911 video showing the results of derusting the complete chassis of my 1952 Cadillac convertible.
@@proshaper I will definitely check it out
Didn't know about the soap! New to me knowledge.
Great video!!! Thanks!!
I agree with other comments on Citric Acid for immersion. But for a specific spot on a weight plate or barbell, the jelly you used would work well. Does the jelly also take off any original paint or just the rust? Great video! Thanks!
Naval jelly just removes the rust.
I highly recommend Drycoat by a company called Metal Rescue from Howell Michigan to prevent flash rust on steel. Simple as spraying it on the clesn steel and letting it dry. Wipes off with thinners and leaves no silicone residue. I have a panel I worked out on a bag over 5 years ago that hangs on my garage wall..still no rust.
Howell?? This is the first time seeing someone talk about my hometown on the internet lol. Might have to give it a try just because
@@Mrusernameify Did you try Drycoat?
Nice presentation.
Hi Wray. Well , l wasn't expecting that ! You're so right , this is the real downside to steel. And sandblasting ......no thamk you ! I did a couple of cars and you just could not get rid of the sand and in spite of thorough air blasting it would inevitably end up in the top coat ! I rebuilt a Jaguar MK lX and the customer had the boot lid sand blasted . It was distorted to the point of being scrap but l managed to save it by judicious shrinking . I restored an XK 140 and had to remake the bulkhead . Is that metal frame the bulkhead /door hinge frame ? Thanks Wray. Take care and stay safe.
Hi John, yes it is a Jaguar cowl support.
Great video👍👍👍thank you for sharing
I am a fan of doing the best u can do to control or inhibit rust ...
Great video thank you
Good video for the beginner staring his first project.
thanks a million
Great video, thank you so much for sharing this process! I didn’t know you could go to Home Depot and get that metal prep or use the navel jelly on thicker stuff. I work in my garage in western mass and am searching for a solution for removing heavy scaling surface rust from a car I sanded to bare metal 2-3 years ago that’s getting prepped now for primer. I’ll give this method a try thanks again!
Hi Daniel, Naval Jelly will remove any deep rust. You have to be patient, it does the work, but with multiple applications. The Naval Jelly you can get next day from Mcmaster.com. I will address the rust issue more in upcoming videos. My TH-cam Home page where you will find 195 videos. th-cam.com/users/proshaper
Thanks for the tips. I see my impatience has caused my lack of success and use of these products.
can I use the spray you use from homedepot on a smoker offset grill ? I have some surface rust its like little dots.. or spots... can I spray and use steel wool and wipe off ? Thanks. or do you think I can use something else ?
Ospho works best similar to the concrete cleaner or fast etch from eastwood with zinc for storage of parts.
After you remove rust like on your Jaguar frame is priming enough until you sell and install it? What do you use on your cast iron bandsaw table. I use just car wax. Is there anything better? Thank you very much for all your great sharing of your knowledge.
H,i Steve yes wax will provide protection.
Hi Wray, Great video very informative, thanks.
Have you not tried soda blasting, using the coarse, industrial grade? It's big here in UK, fashionable even, but I first used it early 1970s, when I lived near the chemical plant that made it.
Low impact, no damage & can be washed off, prior to acid spray.
Also popular over here is a citric acid blend, Deox-C.
LOVE IT!!!!!
Hello and thanks for sharing your knowledge. U did not get the brand of the concrete and metal prep. Could you help on this, please? Heinz
Kleen Strip is the brand of the Concrete and metal prep.
Boeing developed a paraffin based spray to protect aircraft parts in the airplane "graveyards". Boeshield T9. You can get it at Woodcraft. Good for tools that don't get used often also. Comes off easily with mineral spirits.
My bridgeport has been in a self storage unit for a year covered in boeshield. After about 6 months it started to surface rust a little. I check on it weekly and apply more boeshield. It’s done a great job overall.
Sounds very similar to Fluid Film which is paraffin based. I've been using it as an undercoating.
Have you ever tried dustless sandblasting, walnut shells, soda blasting or electrolysis methods? Wondering if they really work. I assume you dont blast the hood because of the heat warping it? Thanks.
Also dry ice works well for removing not deep rust(I never tried it on deep rust) but on parts cleaning basic ruse and machinery it works well no moisture to deal with. However, that was 20 years ago so I don't know how cost prohibitive it is and you can rent the machinery depending on your area fairly cheaply.
White vinegar slowly too. Pour the vinegar on the hood and come back tomorrow. Cheap too.
the metal moth is always lurking around steel. What do you think of using electrolysis to restore metal parts? Another method, which seems unlikely, but appears to work, (TH-cam videos), is soaking parts in a molasses solution. Have you tried that?
I have tried the electrolysis, didn't care for it. Have never tried molasses.
@@proshaper I have seen a guy from Australia that uses molasses in large plastic animal feeders and kiddy pools to remove paint and rust. Takes a day or two but the results are real nice and no toxic residue
I often wonder whether or not it’s more cost effective to just prime the parts if they are going to sit for a while to prevent having to clean rust off.
It seems that the new policy at most sandblasters is after sandblasting they prime with grey epoxy primer. That primer is worse than the rust, you can't do anything with the metal until it is off. It is very difficult to remove. It is best to rust remove then fix your part or panel then prime
I'd like to see the phosphoric acid on the fender would that work on metal that think or is it just for simple thin metal?
Phosphoric works on any rusty steel.
Shrink wrap is cheaper and wider than kitchen wrap.
A much quicker and more economical way is to use a power washer both with and without abrasive fine grit added. I would only use the chemical method if you love wasting time or if you are doing very small parts like tools. power washer is the only way with large items like sheet metal and trailer framing etc... Good luck out there
This process can do this when the rust is thin layer.
In other cases, when the rust is old and hard, and somenone want to remove perfectly, you only need to sandblast unless you are using an $ 80,000 laser. It could also be sand with a flex but it's not the same.
Throw it in a bath of vinegar or rust911 it works on heavy rust aswell. Only time i use sandblasting is on suspension parts or inside of a panel (structural stuff. Not inside of a outside skin panel). Outside skin is always a no no.
@@kulan9379 Unfortunately i have to remove rust from big surfaces like gates and pergola and something like that. So i can't Throw it in a bath of vinegar😁.The sandblast could cost me much money, considering the transport of the machinery and a worker.The surface most important and difficult to sandblast is the pergola,i tried with an angle grinder but its rust is very hard and it's difficult to work on it for it's costruction /dimension,considering also that my angle grinder has one only velocity and so i have to work at the maximum velocity of 12,000 RPM, I would like to try with a new angle grinder with different velocity and sand paper disc of 40 ,i used disc Silicon Carbide which specific for this kind of job,but it hasn't been great,maybe due to 12,000 RPM.
I thought also to rent the necessasery machineres but i'm not be able to use and i don't want some damages,maybe i'll try to rent necessasery machineres and ask for an operator.
@@petrusbenckey than i would use muratic acid. Thats a true rust eraser, you will be amazed. But be quick to paint the surface beacuse it causes rust in the near future if just left without protection and more important. Use high quality protection for you and your other nearby stuff. I usally say to the People that is nearby "this is surten death in liquid form". Not quite but nasty stuff.
@@kulan9379 Perhaps it is better to use a rust blocker such as Owatrol-Rustol, although I have tried a rust converter once, than another type, and it didn't satisfy me very much.It would save me a lot of money and effort.
@@kulan9379 Perhaps it is better to use a rust blocker such as Owatrol-Rustol oil , although I have tried a rust converter once, than another type, and it didn't satisfy me very much.It would save me a lot of money and effort.
Great video I didn't learn anything but excellent presentation
I get my phosphoric acid from the farm chemical store wy cheaper
I had to laugh at the comment about using a kiddy pool to immerse the parts in. I did that with my electrolysis system once but imagine my great surprise when the 1942 coupe fender I put into it happened to punch a hole in the side of the pool when it was filled. The plastic of those kiddy pools is really pretty thin, so be careful as you put on parts which may have sharp edges as my coupe fender did at the time. Thanks for the memory jog. Thanks for posting the video and it being easy to follow, as well. I have a 1925 Model T roadster which needs rust removal done to a whole lot of it. I'll start on the inside of the passenger door as a trial piece to play about with. Also, do you have any recommendations as to what to do for filling in rotted wood? Some say Bondo is cheap and works as well as anything else on the market. I have some wood to the door which can be filled in to better secure the wood once the rot is dremiled or cut away and then treated. Any thoughts on this technique for saving old wood as much as possible? Thanks. Very nice video presentation.
Soak it in Muratic acid for heavy rust. For surface rust just spray or brush on. Works in minutes, and its cheap.
I learned that cleaning vinegar works well still some elbow grease ...
If you want to do it chemical free ... Get sone cleaning vinegar at Ace hardware ...
Blessed !
i use the naval gel a lot. but it takes 10 or 15 applications to get it all. if theres pitting, i wire brush while wet, put on a little more and let it set. neutralize with clean water, blow dry with air hose, then recoat. it can come out very clean looking like new metal. i've never tried putting plastic wrap over it, i will try that. it seems to work best at night as it stays wet longer, during the day it sets up to quick. must neutralize though and get rid of every bit of it, get it dry quick or it will flash rust. sand again before primer.
Love it
Hello thanks for the tips
Just wondering
I purchased a smoker
And it has rust on the inside
And a bit on the outside
For such a large surface what technique would you suggest?
I would probably sand blast a rusty smoker.
Just used a laser rust removing tool last week for the first time, did in minutes what use to take me hours. The only catch is you'll have to take a second mortgage on your house to buy one.
If you were to use SEM Rust Seal on bare metal parts before you shelve them you won't have any rust demons. Lots easier than cleaning up the humidity surface rust.
Great job just Use the PUR 15
After using your tools like dollies and hammer do you oil them with motor oil or what?
Hi Steve, My hands don't sweat so they only rust if a student with sweaty hands uses them. If they rust, or mark up I polish them.
Vinegar/water. Very cost effective, no crazy smelly toxic chemicals and then neutralize with baking soda.
I'm thinking this may work on the frame of my 56 Chevy, as long as it does not mess up the sealed concrete in my shop floor! ;)
All of these acid based cleaners will likely etch or contact react in some way with concrete floors, even Vinegar will spot clean, whiten or alter the appearance of concrete. The concrete being sealed will definitely help a lot but I would still be cautious. Suggest purchasing a roll of heavy poly, the type used for construction vapour barrier and cover the entire area under and around the car frame. Tuck tape all the joints and you should be good but don’t forget if you walk through any wet acid cleaner then onto your floor you may see the foot print. Using a foot rinse of baking soda and water that you can simply step in will neutralize most acids. .
I have some moisture rust under my 1990 fox body will this do the job the spray under my car body
I would highly recommend Rust 911. Check out the video of the Caddy, we had to spray Rust 911 there for a few weeks but it came out fantastic!
Since it changes Iron oxide to iron phosphate will it affect a paint job in time? Have you ever seen any bleed thru?
Old school is not always the best, many new products out.
@@newnews3361 Most of them are the same phosphoric acid with a fancy label.
Never had any paint problems from the methods I showed.
@@proshaper Great that's what I need to know. I have a CJ3B frame to clean and can't get a wire wheel in many spots.
Have you ever used por15? Could you do a demo video on that?
it peals off after a while, I do not use it or rate it and its toxic
Just saw the naval jelly at Walmart 20 minutes ago. It was about $7.50 give or take.
If I do this on a small portion of a very light new rust inside a gas tank. Would I have to seal the metal after? Or can I just run gas
I would use Rust 911 to de-rust a motorcycle gas tank.
I use a product called ospho. It turns iron oxide to iron phosphate, its a paintable surface after a quick cleanup. All rust turns black.
I have used Oshpo before.
The concrete prep he showed is about the same as ospho at about half the cost I have posted this all over but he’s the only person I’ve seen using it. I’ve been using it for years works great
@@777smitty4 I agree!
@@777smitty4 im in the marine biz in florida. We know rust!
Yes me too I build navy ships and do auto paint and body as a hobby 👍