Those paint stripper discs that fit in an angled grinder work great as long as you're careful not to snag it on a sharp edge. A sharp edge can rip the wheel to shreds in a few seconds if you're not careful. I think the secret to them working so well is the open structure that allows lots of air in there to keep the surface cool while grinding so the paint flies off as a cool powder, rather than just melting the paint and smearing it around.
Had to strip a handrailing to prep for powder coat so I literally just went through the decision wire wheels or stripping disks, chose stripping disks. Excellent decision as these worked like a champ, stripped any paint quicky, most of surface rust and left excellent surface ready to send off for coating. I have never really had a lot of success with wire wheels and plan to use these moving forward for any similar task, they do wear quickly so plan on having several on hand but worth their weight in gold.
Good work. In my experience straight wire wheels are best when removing rust and paint on ridged surfaces, such as threads. Otherwise I use the disks for a grinder. The best ones have silicon carbide abrasive. When removing paint it's important to move around a lot to keep the coating cool. If you allow too much heat the paint melts and gums up the disk, and just moves around the part. I use the disk to remove light mill scale. Heavy mill scale is a whole other challenge.
The drill version is meant to be run on the side of the disc, so you hold the dril "sideways" next to your work piece. Mostly meant for small pieces and tight corners.
This may be true but I've used these discs to for both grinder and drill and can tell you from experience it works better and faster if used like a flap disk so not held sideways Soo if it's efficient being used in that manner then ya should probably use it in that manner
@@trailman20 no you shouldnt. If you use them on the face you put forces on it in the wrong way wich can result in the center just ripping out. Just like using a cutoff wheel on a grinder for grinding, if you use those like a flap disk they wil do that pretty wel, until you grenade the disc and shoot pieces of it in to your own body... So just use them how they are intended. And dont be a murican and demand that they force you to only use it like that or that they need to include a 300 page manual to tell you exactly how to do it. Just use common sense, and you should be fine with just the print that is mostly on the small cartboard piece attached around the shaft when new.
@@gabbermaikel well ass you say ..use common sense so don't use force wile using at the same angle you would a flap disc just lightly press if any pressure at all is used ..you always let the tool do the work for you ..I don't personally care what the manual says as it's only there to not be sued by some crazy American I use things the way they work best and take all necessary precautions as any one should
It amazes me how many people use angle grinders without guards after all the countless number of accident horror stories all over the internet. I barely nicked myself with one of those twisted wire brushes for cleaning up welds and it removed everything down to the bone. Two years later and it's still not fully healed.
Exactly, I’ve heard “if you know how to use a grinder you don’t need a guard” It’s because I use a grinder every day that I do use a guard! When I worked in America they would take the guard off straight away because cuz “I ain’t a pussy bro” 🤦♂️ Idiots. Also when people don’t know what direction a grinder should spin so they have the sparks going away from themselves so the grinder kicks back towards them 😂🤦♂️
@@NeedItMakeItI used to work as an engineer and they wouldn't let us even wear nitrile or latex gloves when working with grinders, saws, etc. Cutting fiberglass and carbon fiber rods without gloves sucked...
Great video. Just useful information in a relatable fashion, no BS, no commercials. Earned you a sub. I'm going to try one of these grinder discs for me.
Thank you! I'm moving away from any type of adds and into serving the public in the best way I can. I think we need more honest reviews. I am so sick of buying things that do not last, or work like they are supposed to, I'm sure other people feel the same.
Thanks for the video. I just bought the same 4 1/2 angle grinder with the handle grip and a abrasive pad for removing rust off autobody panels. I'm confident now it will work well
I recently tried removing paint & rust with wire Brush cups & wire wheels, with my drill. I know what you mean about discomfort! With the drill spinning it kept running off the surface of the rungs. I recently bought an angle grinder for a tougher job, both plant stands but next one is twice as big and thick. Unlike your fabulous job after mere minutes, it took me two weekends, wire brushes, wheels & cups just to get to the point of it'll last a few years before I need to redo it. I used rust proof paint, next one will be better. I love tools & learning how to use them for different DIY jobs. Looking forward to more videos from you.
A huge factor that wasn’t covered in this video is safety. The plastic “Rust and Paint Stripper” disc vs. Crimped/knotted wire disc. While still used on power tools and require PPE, they don’t have metal wire flinging off like the latter. Also, they do a much better jon in this case! Less worry about metal debris in your eyes and clothes
The knotted wire wheels and brushes don't, in my experience, fling off the wire bristles as much as their straight wire brothers, but I agree that proper ppe is a must, especially with anger grinders
I think all the holes are there in the pad to make it soft and compliant, so it squishes to match the shape of the surface and doesnt just skip around like a hard disc would.
Love the pint stripping wheels but if there are any sharp edges they get smoked. Usually use them for large flat or small rounded edges. When it comes to a lip or sharp edge i swap to flap disks or the wire wheels
We have old blasting cabinets set up to use these stripper pads in- all the mess stays in one place and we have a shop vac that clears the fine stuff and the coarse crap falls to the funnel bottom.
My experience is that they are designed for different functions. The paint stripper removes the paint, but only lightly scuffs the metal (you get a few sparks). The flap wheel is more aggressive, and removes metal as well as paint. Works great for flattening welds for example.
I use a pre grinder using 16 grit, 24 grit, 36 grit whatever is needed to strip the heavy coats of paint. I used a 16 grit on my garage of 80 yrs worth of paint and no sweat. The area was nicely prepped and I used 4 coats of paint w/primer to re establish the protective coating. All this was necessary because 80 percent of the paint was peeling off, it was done. Now the new paint has over a year on it through the harsh weather in north Ohio and looks fresh.
They're the way to go. For big jobs, get an Eastwood or Bauer contour stripper - same thing but uses a drum instead of a wheel. Various types of drums are available. Its like using a huge eraser.
I use both , the wire brush is better at irregularities , like rivets and protuding bolts etc , especially if you use it with the handle that fits around the front bearing , and gives you far more efficient use of the machine with both your hands . The disc grinder is better on flat surfaces , but an expensive way to go .
Best result you will have by using a grinder with a fiberdisk. No problems with dusk. Simply try. I had to remove old paint and rust on a 50 squaremeters boatdeck of a stealboat. The result was perfekt.
Absolutely helpful! I started stripping the coating on my bus roof with the wire brush on the angle grinder...meh... Saw your video...off I go to the hardware store! It's going to cost me a fortune in disks...but save me A TON of time! CHEERS!😂
The 1st thing I thought of, when I saw you using a drill, which I have done. Was "He should use an angle drill!" I ran into the same thing when I used the wire wheel too. I will be looking for the abrasive wheels that fit an angle grinder too.
Paint on metal is a real pain I agree. For multilayered paint, I think there is no avoiding 2-passes. Those stripper discs are really expensive, so I do pass1 with a flap disk 80grit to expose the metal, then pass2 with the stripper disc for clean job.
I just tested some water based paint stripper and I was quite impressed, not stinky, just use plastic wrap to keep it from drying out, the paint slides off so easy
I'm about to do my roof (steel) and I was weighing what to use on it to remove rust. You answered my question within 2 minutes. Thanks and regards from Central Florida.
I stay away from gloves with power tools, too many times someone had their hands pulled into a machine with gloves on. But that's mostly Woodworking, for griding, maybe a nice tight fitting glove with some grip on it would be good?
@@lasetlivingstin7752 65 impala- 12 disks they eventually get an angle to them as they wear but still usable in tighter spots but i had 2 10 paks so i changed them out on the large flatter surfaces and once they wore down a bit i moved to radius areas
@@WoodworkingforAnyone 🤣 It wasnt that bad labor wise i broke it into 2 hour segments- if you can do it outside that would be great- i did mine in the garage as could only work on it in the late late hours- it does get dusty!
Tell me about it, I had been struggling for too long. I think I was watching a show called 'Just a few acres farm' and he was using the drill version of this disk. I thought there must be a better version, and of course there was. Funny how many times you think of something, and it already exists.
Awkward to use the drill, ok. But youre still gettin' it done. Nicely done. Very nicely done indeed. Ive got the first two. Gonna use the stripper tomorrow night. Thank you!
You can get those paint remover pads in roloc 3m scotch bright 2" disks for a right angle die grinder. That will help you get the smaller inside areas.
I have a few flash-rusted tools, I had been sanding by hand, I'll give these a go on there as well; great idea, thanks! It would be so nice to have a Bridgeport mill.
I use the 3M disk in car bodywork. We call it clear strip and it's designer to remove the paint without any damage on the steel. It takes longer to remove the paint but you keep the steel as original as you can.
Tese discs come in several types. The rust stripper discs have finer "pores" and higher melting point material. They work better on rusted metal, aren't really meant for stripping paint. (Rust comes off as powder.) Many paints will melt under friction onto the abrasive and fill up the spaces . Discs made for paint have larger openings in the abrasive material allowing the paint to cool
The difference is total surface area of abrasive action that makes contact with your material. There is also quite a variance of the level of grit abrasiveness between the two.
I'm really surprised how well the paint stripper pad performed better, I was thinking the other way. Thanks for the cool video tho, watching this from Addis Ababa : )
Those paint stripper wheels work great. But like everything else, there is one drawback. They wear out fairly fast. So when you buy them, buy them in lots of ten or more. I buy them and wire wheels and flapper discs in lots of ten for that reason. They each have their place...
..just to comment... great clip/demonstration thanks... liquid paintstripper.... caustic soda bath... blowtorch..... baking soda..... alcohol, no go! - then this video. I went out got a black disc and voila stripping stainless steel surface in a jiffy, tricky in tight corners will use liquid paint stripper on those spots... blue discs slightly harder and purples being the hardest - so i believe from googling
Use the poly stripping wheels made for grinders that contain silicon carbide grit material embedded in the poly material. I have found them to outperform any other method. If you are cleaning rust off pitted steel, and the item is not too large, soak in hydrochloric acid (10% works fine), rinse thoroughly, then coat with phosphoric acid to create an iron phosphate rust barrier, and good paint adhesion. Take safety precautions with this method. This is my preferred method because no grinding is required and I can weld the parts before painting.
Yeah, I think you can get such a wheel for a small rotary tool, for those hard to reach areas. Or you can use a square ended deburring bit for a die grinder.
I do this for a living & stripping paint bores me as much as it bores everyone. Where you can, grab your Map gas torch & toast the paint/filler first. Do that in a well ventilated space, blah blah, not near flammable bits (ish). It will then come off using your kids Barbie-dolls head hair, let alone a wire wheel/stripper disc. Speeds up the process 10X. Best paint stripping tool? A Map Gas Torch. Followed by whatever abrasive thingy you have chucked about. Any old crap will do after the heaty-heaty. Try it, thank me later. Or not - either is good. I generally do it in badly-ventilated spaces right hard up beside hugely flammable stuff, but hey, nobody's perfect. Upside, saves hours of hufffing down paint-dust & wearing out abrasives. Chances are you're cleaning off the paint so you can weld anyway - in which case the welder will set it on fire - so you might as well just skip ahead & set it on fire deliberately using a controlled burn. That's the "Science" bit btw. It's gonna burn, so burn it first on purpose. You can strip an entire big panel of every trace of paint in no time at all with zero fancy gear - just toast it all gently first. Off it pops, nice & easy. Map gas torches are also famously vibration free - which makes them much "Safer" as hand arm vibration injury is a big "Thing". After a few weeks of using this technique, you become bláse about small bodywork fires. You don't need to worry about a little fire... If more people copped on to this, sandblasters would all go bust... Which would you prefer? 30K of sandblasting gear or a 20 quid Map-Gas torch?
I don't have a torch, but in a future shop, that will be a great tool around the shop. I've used a gas pressure washer on some very old paint, and it did a great job, though it blasted the paint down the street as well and all over the entire yard. The parts were clean at least... I wonder if there is something I can use in my shop, a heat gun? to try this out. It's probably not nearly hot enough.
I have a Bauer 9 amp Corded drill and it has a diagonal handle like the angle grinder does, might work a bit better than one without the handle if using a drill, need to get myself a paint stripper wheel now
Thank you for the video. It shows detailed comparson between wire wheel and stripper disk. I would like to know if you can film and test my company's stripper disk compare with other stripper disk manufacturer. At how much?
Drills have a handle that can be fitted onto them to make manipulation of the device more easy... And for fat drills in thick steel... But this is quite a good demonstration... I never used one, as i always get wire wheels or flapper discs for such jobs, as i never trust any newfangled solution... But this changed my mind... I dont have to try it myself to see the effective difference...For rust, i like a rough wire wheel, but for paint, wires are dreck... I was stripping a large machine of its paint for 2 months... The oem paint from 50`s and all the newer layers were like 3mm thick, and the oem paint is resilient as millscale... Which just tells me that old paints, lead or not, were better... All fresh layers were wired off in a week, as its a very large surface with lots of curves and what not, but the oem paint, its like baked on glass... Wire barely scratches it, and its rough, twisted strands, large angle grinder wire wheel... That thing can literally cut through aluminium given enough time, let alone wood or anything inferior... And then, theres that paint from 50`s that ignores the 12k rpm shredder of death... Without a doubt, it would pose some resistance to this wheel aswell, but compared to wires, this hard sponge looks like it would have saved me weeks of sweating in a full hazard suit(lead paint and god knows what makes up the 50`s filler along with decades old layers of toxic and infested oils...)
They are designed for two different things. 🤔 The wire wheel is for fast removal of rust and flakey paint on a surface you don't mind scratching up. The other one is for removing rust or paint on material you don't want to scratch. So you're comparing apples to oranges. It would be like comparing a machine gun to an automatic. It's not necessarily better than the other, just different. I would never bother using the composite wheel on a tractor bucket. For those things I would buy a cheap sandblaster. My sandblasting setup cost me about $50. I built a cabinet out of cardboard and plexiglass that looks just like the cabinet they sell at harbor freight and it's lasted me 3 years now. Honestly, I wouldn't even bother knocking that bucket down to bare metal. There's no point. It was most likely powder coated too. Also, you're wasting money using the composite wheel on a big job like that. They don't last, trust me. You would need probably four to five of those Wheels to finish that bucket. Edit: I run a metal fabrication business. For others reading, those composite wheels are for small jobs. They're a waste of money to use on something this big. A wire wheel takes too long. So if you will be doing jobs like this very often get a sandblaster, or just knock it down a little and paint right over the old paint. If you're a welder the composite wheels are great for getting mill scale off without scratching the material your welding on.
Thanks for your thoughts, I made this video because I thought it would be helpful for people who are not up on some of the newer tools available. So maybe it doesn't help everyone, that's okay, and thanks for your thoughts.
I have a 2 tier solid steel deck I need to strip down to the bare metal because it's rusting and the paint is all cracked. I paid someone $2K and it looks worse now 3 years later than it did before. I'm trying to use an angle grinder but it's taking forever. Any ideas of what else I could use? Also, my current process is to strip it down to bare metal, spray it with phosphoric acid and let it rest for 24hrs. Then clean with mineral spirits and let that dry, then wipe over that and putting Rustoleum primer on it (currently testing heavy rust primer) then waiting 24 hours and painting with DTM Acrylic Sherwin Williams gloss paint. Does this seem like it will last? Thanks.
For the particular job you are doing - removing heavy paint from a large object (bucket) a sandblaster would be much faster and better and easier. The sand can be "recycled" into the local area (as it is off of a dozer) and a cabinet is not needed. The Stripper Disc can be used flat or on its side - just depends on what you need to do. I also realize that this vid is to show the difference between the two and not the job, but if for real (doing the whole bucket) a blaster is better.
Oh I wish I had a sand blaster, that would make restorations so much easier, all of those little nooks and crannies. On the list for a future purchase for sure! Thanks for the tips my man!
@@dc85337 Any chance they work with an abrasive that is safer around the home? I'm a little rusty on the tech, maybe they're using different materials these days.
@@NeedItMakeIt Sand is "usually" a non-issue as it blends/dissipates into the background, however there are other media type blasters that are more expensive but leave no real residue. Walnut shells work well, but don't blend into the ground as well as sand does. Sand can be brushed up, vacuumed up, or hosed off and be a non-issue. Picked up abrasive also picks up the paint residue, so.............depends on where you blast and what's around you.
I once stripped the paint off of an entire house using those 3m drill discs and a dewalt corded drill I bought expecting to kill it on that job. Still have the drill and I use that kind of abrasive on the angle grinder now all the time
The 60 grit 3M discs work well stripping old cove crown molding. The heat softens the latex and old oil paints and the grit moves along the grain so it is not damaged much. A 180 or 220 sanding disc finishes it very well. Much faster than a heat gun and scraper. Paint stripper is better if you can do lots of pieces of crown at the same time. Otherwise the 60 grit 3M discs are much better.
I am going to get some, to try on peeling chrome and rust, on a set of steel wheels for an "antique" car. Originally they were painted, so in "restoring" them they need to go to clean bare metal. Not going to be re-chromed. BTW I have spent some time using wire wheels on a drill, and some areas cleaned up OK, but the pitted chrome areas with significant rust the wire wheels are not doing good at all.
Stripping discs are my go to for paint a surface rust removal. These don't remove the metal like a low grit sanding disc but leave a nice profiled surface. I can buzz with 80 grit on a da and right to epoxy primer.
Thanks buddy, very informative. I was wondering what anyone would use the metal wheel for, or under what circumstances would you use it instead of the plastic one.
Thanks, I'm glad it could help you. I'd use the flap disk for cleaning up bare metal which isn't already rusted too much. Preparation of steel for welding, or for paint, but if it already has paint on it, the flap disk likes to clog up. It really depends on the paint too, sticky paints are hard to handle for the Wire wheel and flap disk, some paints are hard and they're pretty easy to remove with anything.
I think I have some links in the description, let me check again. Okay, here is the Amazon USA link, they're in the description, but maybe they don't show for you. amzn.to/3J86ysH This one is Amazon CAN amzn.to/3XUz9X7. I hope that helps and happy grinding!
I just got the angle grinder paint stripping disc. It turns it into a suction cup. It pulls the grinder against the material and is a bit scary to use, not least because I had to remove the guard as it was rubbing against it. I found it wasn't that great until I turned it at an angle and swiped at the material. It made my hand very sore from holding it because I think it's unbalanced and vibrations were bad.
I suppose it is meant to use at an angle, that was my first though, having it flat would cause you to have to fight it to stay exactly where you want it. I noticed that mine had a bore which didn't exactly match the shaft size, not sure if it was intentional or not, but the vibrations seemed minimal none the less. Which brand did you end up going with?
@@NeedItMakeIt Pretty sure after reading the reviews I wasn't the only one. The hole was offset ever so slightly. Can't remember brand, but it was the cheapest one they had.
There is paint remover... Just cover your paint with it and you can almost blow it away with a compressor. Good for corners or other places hard to access with a grinder
I paint over wire wheeled steel surfaces all the time, never had a problem. Sometimes I use etch primer then rustguard top coat. Sometimes just rustguard with no primer. It is a good idea to paint staright away, I just wipe with metho (100% alcohol) and paper towel to make sure there is no finger grease etc on the raw steel.
@@calculator1841 How hard do you suppose iron oxide is compared to steel wire? The ends will be polished within seconds and do not properly abrade the surface. Compare a properly abraded or chemically etched surface with wire brushed under a microscope and get back to me with which you think will have the best adhesion of primer.
@@NeedItMakeIt You can start with one of those cheap little ones that uses a siphon feed from a small sand pot. If you have a good sized air tank, you can even power it with a shop air compressor for awhile. You have to find a place outside where you can spray the sand, though, or get a cabinet for one of those smaller ones in town. I fell in love with sandblast back in the '70's. It is magical how it can strip rust from even pitted iron or steel and leave a nice 'tooth' for the primer.
I have that exact workbench. It was not designed to support a giant hunk of steel. Also theres goopy chemicals that will take paint right off without much elbow grease. They use it on those Restoration videos all the time.
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Those paint stripper discs that fit in an angled grinder work great as long as you're careful not to snag it on a sharp edge. A sharp edge can rip the wheel to shreds in a few seconds if you're not careful. I think the secret to them working so well is the open structure that allows lots of air in there to keep the surface cool while grinding so the paint flies off as a cool powder, rather than just melting the paint and smearing it around.
I was blown away at how well those work. Been using grinders for 20 years & just found out about them recently.
Had to strip a handrailing to prep for powder coat so I literally just went through the decision wire wheels or stripping disks, chose stripping disks. Excellent decision as these worked like a champ, stripped any paint quicky, most of surface rust and left excellent surface ready to send off for coating. I have never really had a lot of success with wire wheels and plan to use these moving forward for any similar task, they do wear quickly so plan on having several on hand but worth their weight in gold.
After watching about 10 different videos, this one nailed it.
Awesome, thanks for taking the time!
Good work. In my experience straight wire wheels are best when removing rust and paint on ridged surfaces, such as threads. Otherwise I use the disks for a grinder. The best ones have silicon carbide abrasive. When removing paint it's important to move around a lot to keep the coating cool. If you allow too much heat the paint melts and gums up the disk, and just moves around the part. I use the disk to remove light mill scale. Heavy mill scale is a whole other challenge.
The drill version is meant to be run on the side of the disc, so you hold the dril "sideways" next to your work piece. Mostly meant for small pieces and tight corners.
I can't believe he didnt know the obvious .....sad.
This may be true but I've used these discs to for both grinder and drill and can tell you from experience it works better and faster if used like a flap disk so not held sideways Soo if it's efficient being used in that manner then ya should probably use it in that manner
@@TheSRBgamer63
cmon, you need to hold wire wheel sideways for removing paint :D He dont have a clue wtf he is doing :D
@@trailman20 no you shouldnt. If you use them on the face you put forces on it in the wrong way wich can result in the center just ripping out. Just like using a cutoff wheel on a grinder for grinding, if you use those like a flap disk they wil do that pretty wel, until you grenade the disc and shoot pieces of it in to your own body... So just use them how they are intended.
And dont be a murican and demand that they force you to only use it like that or that they need to include a 300 page manual to tell you exactly how to do it. Just use common sense, and you should be fine with just the print that is mostly on the small cartboard piece attached around the shaft when new.
@@gabbermaikel well ass you say ..use common sense so don't use force wile using at the same angle you would a flap disc just lightly press if any pressure at all is used ..you always let the tool do the work for you ..I don't personally care what the manual says as it's only there to not be sued by some crazy American I use things the way they work best and take all necessary precautions as any one should
It amazes me how many people use angle grinders without guards after all the countless number of accident horror stories all over the internet. I barely nicked myself with one of those twisted wire brushes for cleaning up welds and it removed everything down to the bone. Two years later and it's still not fully healed.
What are your thoughts on wearing gloves with a grinder? Is there a glove that works best to protect and still have good grip?
@@NeedItMakeIt like every safety guard, they can limit too much of the blade.
@@NeedItMakeIt Any pair of welding gloves should be fine. The leather will be disintegrated instead of your hand.
Exactly, I’ve heard “if you know how to use a grinder you don’t need a guard”
It’s because I use a grinder every day that I do use a guard!
When I worked in America they would take the guard off straight away because cuz “I ain’t a pussy bro” 🤦♂️
Idiots.
Also when people don’t know what direction a grinder should spin so they have the sparks going away from themselves so the grinder kicks back towards them 😂🤦♂️
@@NeedItMakeItI used to work as an engineer and they wouldn't let us even wear nitrile or latex gloves when working with grinders, saws, etc. Cutting fiberglass and carbon fiber rods without gloves sucked...
Those grinder paint removal pads also work great for mill scale removal when welding.
Great video. Just useful information in a relatable fashion, no BS, no commercials. Earned you a sub. I'm going to try one of these grinder discs for me.
Thank you! I'm moving away from any type of adds and into serving the public in the best way I can. I think we need more honest reviews. I am so sick of buying things that do not last, or work like they are supposed to, I'm sure other people feel the same.
Thanks for the video. I just bought the same 4 1/2 angle grinder with the handle grip and a abrasive pad for removing rust off autobody panels. I'm confident now it will work well
I'm glad it helped!
Those are what we use in the body shop for removing paint and e-coat from panels when you need to weld on them.
I recently tried removing paint & rust with wire Brush cups & wire wheels, with my drill. I know what you mean about discomfort! With the drill spinning it kept running off the surface of the rungs. I recently bought an angle grinder for a tougher job, both plant stands but next one is twice as big and thick. Unlike your fabulous job after mere minutes, it took me two weekends, wire brushes, wheels & cups just to get to the point of it'll last a few years before I need to redo it. I used rust proof paint, next one will be better. I love tools & learning how to use them for different DIY jobs. Looking forward to more videos from you.
A huge factor that wasn’t covered in this video is safety. The plastic “Rust and Paint Stripper” disc vs. Crimped/knotted wire disc. While still used on power tools and require PPE, they don’t have metal wire flinging off like the latter. Also, they do a much better jon in this case! Less worry about metal debris in your eyes and clothes
I got stung on the tip of the dick by a flung wire once lol
The knotted wire wheels and brushes don't, in my experience, fling off the wire bristles as much as their straight wire brothers, but I agree that proper ppe is a must, especially with anger grinders
@@flack3 ooof
@@fredchevalier2333 when the new fling off, you’ll feel it in your dick like MisterX
Just leave the guard on and dont get injured or take the risk like this guy!
I think all the holes are there in the pad to make it soft and compliant, so it squishes to match the shape of the surface and doesnt just skip around like a hard disc would.
That's a good point, not as stiff and will not dig in like a sanding disk, thanks for your thoughts on this.
Love the pint stripping wheels but if there are any sharp edges they get smoked. Usually use them for large flat or small rounded edges. When it comes to a lip or sharp edge i swap to flap disks or the wire wheels
What a great and informative video. I have been suffering for years with wire and I am gonna gives these a shot.
They saved me a TON of time, pretty messy though.
We have old blasting cabinets set up to use these stripper pads in- all the mess stays in one place and we have a shop vac that clears the fine stuff and the coarse crap falls to the funnel bottom.
Isn't it relaxing watching someone else do a job 😊 👍
Very informative video. Thank you
Testing the paint removing wheel on the grinder vs a flap disc would be a decent little comparison I think.
My experience is that they are designed for different functions. The paint stripper removes the paint, but only lightly scuffs the metal (you get a few sparks). The flap wheel is more aggressive, and removes metal as well as paint. Works great for flattening welds for example.
I love using the paint strip discs for weld prep. So much better than loading up grinding discs .
Any particular brand you use? I've found these cheapies on amazon to work really well, there are different grits, but they're not clearly identified.
I use a pre grinder using 16 grit, 24 grit, 36 grit whatever is needed to strip the heavy coats of paint.
I used a 16 grit on my garage of 80 yrs worth of paint and no sweat. The area was nicely prepped and I used 4 coats of paint w/primer to re establish the protective coating. All this was necessary because 80 percent of the paint was peeling off, it was done. Now the new paint has over a year on it through the harsh weather in north Ohio and looks fresh.
I have a garage floor with the same issues, thanks for the tips, very useful into!
Excellent video. I have never used these type of disks before and it was very informative. Very impressed with how well they work.
I have asked many things of my workmate. Glad to see it will hold that much weight
They're the way to go. For big jobs, get an Eastwood or Bauer contour stripper - same thing but uses a drum instead of a wheel. Various types of drums are available. Its like using a huge eraser.
I’m really glad I found this video before I bought the wire wheel.
I use both , the wire brush is better at irregularities , like rivets and protuding bolts etc , especially if you use it with the handle that fits around the front bearing , and gives you far more efficient use of the machine with both your hands . The disc grinder is better on flat surfaces , but an expensive way to go .
Thank you
Best result you will have by using a grinder with a fiberdisk. No problems with dusk. Simply try. I had to remove old paint and rust on a 50 squaremeters boatdeck of a stealboat. The result was perfekt.
it helps if you blow out the disc after use with compressed air, it will clean and improve the life of the disc
Never used it but this is the next thing on my list. Thank you.
Poly paint strip wheel impressed me i stripped a tail gate in no time FYI..
I use it to make cast iron cook wear new again !!👍
Thank you very much. Looks like the disc can be used forward because it is indented in the front.
Absolutely helpful! I started stripping the coating on my bus roof with the wire brush on the angle grinder...meh...
Saw your video...off I go to the hardware store!
It's going to cost me a fortune in disks...but save me A TON of time! CHEERS!😂
I have been removing paint from my concrete floor the hard way with a stripping blade, so this looks like it may work 10 times better❤.
The 1st thing I thought of, when I saw you using a drill, which I have done. Was "He should use an angle drill!" I ran into the same thing when I used the wire wheel too. I will be looking for the abrasive wheels that fit an angle grinder too.
Paint on metal is a real pain I agree. For multilayered paint, I think there is no avoiding 2-passes. Those stripper discs are really expensive, so I do pass1 with a flap disk 80grit to expose the metal, then pass2 with the stripper disc for clean job.
I just tested some water based paint stripper and I was quite impressed, not stinky, just use plastic wrap to keep it from drying out, the paint slides off so easy
Just found your channel. I enjoyed the video. I'll be watching some more of them soon. Thanks for the upload.
Canada in the house showin' how it's done! Keep up the good work. Great vid!
Love this a lot, thanks for the shout out. Go Canada!
I'm about to do my roof (steel) and I was weighing what to use on it to remove rust. You answered my question within 2 minutes. Thanks and regards from Central Florida.
3M makes those disks for angle grinders, too. They work very well. And always wear a face shield and proper gloves when working with an angle grinder.
I stay away from gloves with power tools, too many times someone had their hands pulled into a machine with gloves on. But that's mostly Woodworking, for griding, maybe a nice tight fitting glove with some grip on it would be good?
Stripped my entire car to bare metal with strip disks in a 4.5 angle grinder- they are a must have tool !
@@lasetlivingstin7752 65 impala- 12 disks they eventually get an angle to them as they wear but still usable in tighter spots but i had 2 10 paks so i changed them out on the large flatter surfaces and once they wore down a bit i moved to radius areas
Would you ever help a friend do it? Follow up question. Do you need any new friends?
@@WoodworkingforAnyone 🤣 It wasnt that bad labor wise i broke it into 2 hour segments- if you can do it outside that would be great- i did mine in the garage as could only work on it in the late late hours- it does get dusty!
Hahaha I'll bet it got dusty. I've done something similar before but without thinking. My tools needed cleaned anyhow...@@dyingforpie6879
Thanks for sharing this, I have been using wire brush on grinder. Gotta switch.
Tell me about it, I had been struggling for too long. I think I was watching a show called 'Just a few acres farm' and he was using the drill version of this disk. I thought there must be a better version, and of course there was. Funny how many times you think of something, and it already exists.
Side grinder for both. For rust I like a coarse wire cup. Paint, definitely the stripper wheel
Awkward to use the drill, ok. But youre still gettin' it done. Nicely done. Very nicely done indeed. Ive got the first two. Gonna use the stripper tomorrow night. Thank you!
You can get those paint remover pads in roloc 3m scotch bright 2" disks for a right angle die grinder. That will help you get the smaller inside areas.
That's perfect, I was using a small chisel for any small corners and that worked alright, but better to add some RPM to it!
There are two inch pads for die grinders for removing paint that would be very suitable for inside surfaces
Excellent video! Straight and to the point. I appreciate you posting this!!
I'm going to get some of those disks to clean up my Bridgeport!
I have a few flash-rusted tools, I had been sanding by hand, I'll give these a go on there as well; great idea, thanks! It would be so nice to have a Bridgeport mill.
I use the 3M disk in car bodywork. We call it clear strip and it's designer to remove the paint without any damage on the steel. It takes longer to remove the paint but you keep the steel as original as you can.
would it be safe to use his paint stripping wheel on motorcycle alluminum cylinder fins , removing the powder coating
@@lawrencedavidson296Yes, but I'd use the black ones, they're softer than the purple discs.
Tese discs come in several types. The rust stripper discs have finer "pores" and higher melting point material. They work better on rusted metal, aren't really meant for stripping paint. (Rust comes off as powder.) Many paints will melt under friction onto the abrasive and fill up the spaces . Discs made for paint have larger openings in the abrasive material allowing the paint to cool
The difference is total surface area of abrasive action that makes contact with your material. There is also quite a variance of the level of grit abrasiveness between the two.
I'm really surprised how well the paint stripper pad performed better, I was thinking the other way. Thanks for the cool video tho, watching this from Addis Ababa : )
Those paint stripper wheels work great. But like everything else, there is one drawback. They wear out fairly fast. So when you buy them, buy them in lots of ten or more. I buy them and wire wheels and flapper discs in lots of ten for that reason. They each have their place...
..just to comment... great clip/demonstration thanks... liquid paintstripper.... caustic soda bath... blowtorch..... baking soda..... alcohol, no go! - then this video. I went out got a black disc and voila stripping stainless steel surface in a jiffy, tricky in tight corners will use liquid paint stripper on those spots... blue discs slightly harder and purples being the hardest - so i believe from googling
Thanks for the extra info. It wasn't very clear from Amazon how the color related to the abrasive.
Use the poly stripping wheels made for grinders that contain silicon carbide grit material embedded in the poly material. I have found them to outperform any other method.
If you are cleaning rust off pitted steel, and the item is not too large, soak in hydrochloric acid (10% works fine), rinse thoroughly, then coat with phosphoric acid to create an iron phosphate rust barrier, and good paint adhesion. Take safety precautions with this method. This is my preferred method because no grinding is required and I can weld the parts before painting.
Thanks. I've been fighting with a wire brush. You convinced me instantly
Thank you for the vid, I’m taking some rust off on a frame and this gives me confidence I can do it. Thank you.
The Poly strip disc does the work a lot better ! 👍🏻
Certainly my go-to when removing paint, I can't see myself going back either!
Yeah, I think you can get such a wheel for a small rotary tool, for those hard to reach areas. Or you can use a square ended deburring bit for a die grinder.
I used an old chisel for the corners, it didn't give a perfect result, but not bad. Those corners are a PAIN!
I do this for a living & stripping paint bores me as much as it bores everyone. Where you can, grab your Map gas torch & toast the paint/filler first. Do that in a well ventilated space, blah blah, not near flammable bits (ish). It will then come off using your kids Barbie-dolls head hair, let alone a wire wheel/stripper disc. Speeds up the process 10X.
Best paint stripping tool? A Map Gas Torch. Followed by whatever abrasive thingy you have chucked about. Any old crap will do after the heaty-heaty. Try it, thank me later. Or not - either is good. I generally do it in badly-ventilated spaces right hard up beside hugely flammable stuff, but hey, nobody's perfect. Upside, saves hours of hufffing down paint-dust & wearing out abrasives.
Chances are you're cleaning off the paint so you can weld anyway - in which case the welder will set it on fire - so you might as well just skip ahead & set it on fire deliberately using a controlled burn. That's the "Science" bit btw. It's gonna burn, so burn it first on purpose.
You can strip an entire big panel of every trace of paint in no time at all with zero fancy gear - just toast it all gently first. Off it pops, nice & easy. Map gas torches are also famously vibration free - which makes them much "Safer" as hand arm vibration injury is a big "Thing". After a few weeks of using this technique, you become bláse about small bodywork fires. You don't need to worry about a little fire... If more people copped on to this, sandblasters would all go bust... Which would you prefer? 30K of sandblasting gear or a 20 quid Map-Gas torch?
I don't have a torch, but in a future shop, that will be a great tool around the shop. I've used a gas pressure washer on some very old paint, and it did a great job, though it blasted the paint down the street as well and all over the entire yard. The parts were clean at least...
I wonder if there is something I can use in my shop, a heat gun? to try this out. It's probably not nearly hot enough.
so nice to c that paint coming off...tks
I have a Bauer 9 amp Corded drill and it has a diagonal handle like the angle grinder does, might work a bit better than one without the handle if using a drill, need to get myself a paint stripper wheel now
I love the paint pads. I use wire the wire wheel when I have pit rust I need to remove before adding a phosphate pre prime.
Thank you for the video. It shows detailed comparson between wire wheel and stripper disk.
I would like to know if you can film and test my company's stripper disk compare with other stripper disk manufacturer. At how much?
The disc you used where probably ceramic abrasives and are considering as tough as or even tougher than silicon carbide abrasives
IMHO it’s horses for courses. Using the right tool for the right job, including paint stripper and a water blaster, is the key.
Drills have a handle that can be fitted onto them to make manipulation of the device more easy... And for fat drills in thick steel...
But this is quite a good demonstration... I never used one, as i always get wire wheels or flapper discs for such jobs, as i never trust any newfangled solution... But this changed my mind... I dont have to try it myself to see the effective difference...For rust, i like a rough wire wheel, but for paint, wires are dreck... I was stripping a large machine of its paint for 2 months... The oem paint from 50`s and all the newer layers were like 3mm thick, and the oem paint is resilient as millscale... Which just tells me that old paints, lead or not, were better... All fresh layers were wired off in a week, as its a very large surface with lots of curves and what not, but the oem paint, its like baked on glass... Wire barely scratches it, and its rough, twisted strands, large angle grinder wire wheel... That thing can literally cut through aluminium given enough time, let alone wood or anything inferior... And then, theres that paint from 50`s that ignores the 12k rpm shredder of death... Without a doubt, it would pose some resistance to this wheel aswell, but compared to wires, this hard sponge looks like it would have saved me weeks of sweating in a full hazard suit(lead paint and god knows what makes up the 50`s filler along with decades old layers of toxic and infested oils...)
Published yet?
They are designed for two different things. 🤔
The wire wheel is for fast removal of rust and flakey paint on a surface you don't mind scratching up. The other one is for removing rust or paint on material you don't want to scratch.
So you're comparing apples to oranges. It would be like comparing a machine gun to an automatic. It's not necessarily better than the other, just different.
I would never bother using the composite wheel on a tractor bucket. For those things I would buy a cheap sandblaster. My sandblasting setup cost me about $50. I built a cabinet out of cardboard and plexiglass that looks just like the cabinet they sell at harbor freight and it's lasted me 3 years now. Honestly, I wouldn't even bother knocking that bucket down to bare metal. There's no point. It was most likely powder coated too.
Also, you're wasting money using the composite wheel on a big job like that. They don't last, trust me. You would need probably four to five of those Wheels to finish that bucket.
Edit: I run a metal fabrication business. For others reading, those composite wheels are for small jobs. They're a waste of money to use on something this big. A wire wheel takes too long. So if you will be doing jobs like this very often get a sandblaster, or just knock it down a little and paint right over the old paint. If you're a welder the composite wheels are great for getting mill scale off without scratching the material your welding on.
Thanks for your thoughts, I made this video because I thought it would be helpful for people who are not up on some of the newer tools available. So maybe it doesn't help everyone, that's okay, and thanks for your thoughts.
Do you have a favorite brand of these disks, maybe something made in the USA you wouldn't mind sharing?
I have a 2 tier solid steel deck I need to strip down to the bare metal because it's rusting and the paint is all cracked. I paid someone $2K and it looks worse now 3 years later than it did before. I'm trying to use an angle grinder but it's taking forever. Any ideas of what else I could use?
Also, my current process is to strip it down to bare metal, spray it with phosphoric acid and let it rest for 24hrs. Then clean with mineral spirits and let that dry, then wipe over that and putting Rustoleum primer on it (currently testing heavy rust primer) then waiting 24 hours and painting with DTM Acrylic Sherwin Williams gloss paint. Does this seem like it will last? Thanks.
And yet his video pretty much dispelled your entire Comment.
Spot on. 👍
Great job
Thanks a lot, I appreciate you taking the time to write a comment!
Thank you for sharing, I like your style short and to the point, I just subscribed.
Awesome thanks for that, I try to keep the videos short, attempting not to waste everyone's time.
I have the handle attachment for two of my drills, sure you can buy an add-on one if you do not have an angle grinder.
For a small project, the drill works well, I like that they're smaller for those tighter spaces and it's a bit safer really.
For the particular job you are doing - removing heavy paint from a large object (bucket) a sandblaster would be much faster and better and easier.
The sand can be "recycled" into the local area (as it is off of a dozer) and a cabinet is not needed.
The Stripper Disc can be used flat or on its side - just depends on what you need to do.
I also realize that this vid is to show the difference between the two and not the job, but if for real (doing the whole bucket) a blaster is better.
Oh I wish I had a sand blaster, that would make restorations so much easier, all of those little nooks and crannies. On the list for a future purchase for sure! Thanks for the tips my man!
@@NeedItMakeIt
Harbor Freight!
$30 to $90 + sand - Hand Held Blasters, not cabinet style.
Not that expensive for what you are doing.
@@dc85337 Any chance they work with an abrasive that is safer around the home? I'm a little rusty on the tech, maybe they're using different materials these days.
@@NeedItMakeIt
Sand is "usually" a non-issue as it blends/dissipates into the background, however there are other media type blasters that are more expensive but leave no real residue.
Walnut shells work well, but don't blend into the ground as well as sand does. Sand can be brushed up, vacuumed up, or hosed off and be a non-issue.
Picked up abrasive also picks up the paint residue, so.............depends on where you blast and what's around you.
I once stripped the paint off of an entire house using those 3m drill discs and a dewalt corded drill I bought expecting to kill it on that job. Still have the drill and I use that kind of abrasive on the angle grinder now all the time
I'm impressed, that's a lot of work.
The 60 grit 3M discs work well stripping old cove crown molding. The heat softens the latex and old oil paints and the grit moves along the grain so it is not damaged much. A 180 or 220 sanding disc finishes it very well. Much faster than a heat gun and scraper. Paint stripper is better if you can do lots of pieces of crown at the same time. Otherwise the 60 grit 3M discs are much better.
Great Review and thanks for posting !!
Though those pads leave a polished surface hence the paint has less to adhere to as opposed to shot blasting
Hit it after with some 24#.
They have a light abrasive, it does give a light etch. The pads are also color coded for different grits. But which grit is which, I do not know.
I am going to get some, to try on peeling chrome and rust, on a set of steel wheels for an "antique" car. Originally they were painted, so in "restoring" them they need to go to clean bare metal. Not going to be re-chromed. BTW I have spent some time using wire wheels on a drill, and some areas cleaned up OK, but the pitted chrome areas with significant rust the wire wheels are not doing good at all.
Nice!!! I’m going to the hardware store asap for some of those grinder pads.
Stripping discs are my go to for paint a surface rust removal. These don't remove the metal like a low grit sanding disc but leave a nice profiled surface. I can buzz with 80 grit on a da and right to epoxy primer.
They definitely remove metal
Thanks buddy, very informative. I was wondering what anyone would use the metal wheel for, or under what circumstances would you use it instead of the plastic one.
Thanks, I'm glad it could help you. I'd use the flap disk for cleaning up bare metal which isn't already rusted too much. Preparation of steel for welding, or for paint, but if it already has paint on it, the flap disk likes to clog up. It really depends on the paint too, sticky paints are hard to handle for the Wire wheel and flap disk, some paints are hard and they're pretty easy to remove with anything.
The reason those disks work so well is they are made of silicon carbide, the third hardest material on earth.
I learnt something new from your video that will save me a tonne of time. Thanks. a million!
Thanks for the vid - could you included a link of the product you’re using? I have a big job I need this for and will buy or rent an angle-grinder…
I think I have some links in the description, let me check again. Okay, here is the Amazon USA link, they're in the description, but maybe they don't show for you. amzn.to/3J86ysH This one is Amazon CAN amzn.to/3XUz9X7. I hope that helps and happy grinding!
Thank you. I have a old tractor implement that I need to clean up
Very satisfying to watch.
Thank you, glad you liked it.
Answered a lot of my questions in one video
Glad I could help thanks for taking the time to leave a comment!
Thanks for the vid. What did you use to get into those tight spots?
I used an old chisel, I just picked up an old die grinder, that probably does a better job.
I just got the angle grinder paint stripping disc. It turns it into a suction cup. It pulls the grinder against the material and is a bit scary to use, not least because I had to remove the guard as it was rubbing against it. I found it wasn't that great until I turned it at an angle and swiped at the material. It made my hand very sore from holding it because I think it's unbalanced and vibrations were bad.
I suppose it is meant to use at an angle, that was my first though, having it flat would cause you to have to fight it to stay exactly where you want it. I noticed that mine had a bore which didn't exactly match the shaft size, not sure if it was intentional or not, but the vibrations seemed minimal none the less. Which brand did you end up going with?
@@NeedItMakeIt Pretty sure after reading the reviews I wasn't the only one. The hole was offset ever so slightly. Can't remember brand, but it was the cheapest one they had.
There is paint remover... Just cover your paint with it and you can almost blow it away with a compressor. Good for corners or other places hard to access with a grinder
The huge problem with wire brushes is the polished surface they leave - terrible for paint adhesion unless subsequently chemically etched.
I paint over wire wheeled steel surfaces all the time, never had a problem. Sometimes I use etch primer then rustguard top coat. Sometimes just rustguard with no primer. It is a good idea to paint staright away, I just wipe with metho (100% alcohol) and paper towel to make sure there is no finger grease etc on the raw steel.
Polished from wire wheels? The hell tiny bristles are you using, 000??
@@calculator1841 .. if you use gentle force with the wire wheel it will polish the steel surface up.
@@calculator1841 How hard do you suppose iron oxide is compared to steel wire? The ends will be polished within seconds and do not properly abrade the surface. Compare a properly abraded or chemically etched surface with wire brushed under a microscope and get back to me with which you think will have the best adhesion of primer.
Sandblast is great for getting into small spaces. It takes a lot of air, though.
I wish I had a sandblaster!
@@NeedItMakeIt You can start with one of those cheap little ones that uses a siphon feed from a small sand pot. If you have a good sized air tank, you can even power it with a shop air compressor for awhile. You have to find a place outside where you can spray the sand, though, or get a cabinet for one of those smaller ones in town. I fell in love with sandblast back in the '70's. It is magical how it can strip rust from even pitted iron or steel and leave a nice 'tooth' for the primer.
Used one at the weekend was amazing.
Awesome! Wire wheels are great for rust, and some hard paints, but some paints are rubbery and this disc does so much better.
I have that exact workbench. It was not designed to support a giant hunk of steel.
Also theres goopy chemicals that will take paint right off without much elbow grease. They use it on those Restoration videos all the time.
Where did you get the purple disc? What brand is it?
I've found the wire stripper brush to be highly aggressive, certainly too much for something like bench seat legs or such.
Ok SO HOW TO GET INTO THE CORNERS OR IS THERE ANYTHING LIKE THE RUST STRIPPER BUT FOR CORNERS ???
Get the 3M brite scotch for your angle grinder.
Do you find they last a lot longer? They're quite a bit more expensive.
Once you try it, you will never go back. Your time is also worth a lot :)
@@alonsorobots I'm restoring my SB 9A lathe right now, could be handy!
What do you use on the inside corners of angle iron?
@@PennyKimball-tg9my I have needed it yet but likely an automotive air die grinder with mini sanding pads would do the job
Nice work. Merry Christmas
Thanks and to you as well! Hopefully Santa was good to you this year and brought you lots of tools.
Nice video. To the point and educational. Kudos
I use the poly wheel for the grinder. They work much much better.
Do you have any particular brand you prefer?
was waiting for the pad to grab an edge and rip your hand
Exactly what I was looking for thanks fam
Nice, glad it helped!
Perfect video! Exactly what I needed to know. Thank you
Awesome!