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Muriatic Acid comes in different strengths. I like the 31.45% HASA from the local Pool Supplier. Must to do out doors and stay up-wind. A simple cheap paint brush is all you need. No need for abrasives or rubbing at all. Just brush it on, keep it wet and in 5 mins the rust will disappear before your eyes. Brand new metal to be had. Speaking of eyes, goggles a must! Couldn't imagine getting that in the eye. You MUST neutralize the acid. Prep a sprayer with Baking Soda and water and spray the acid. Muriatic acid reacts with baking soda to form table salt (NaCl), carbon dioxide gas (CO2), and water (H2O). It appears as a foam. After neutralizing hose it all off and dry quickly to prevent flash rusting, It's fast and easy. I just did an entire front-clip. Great results.
So fantastic and humbling to see people still taking trades work so seriously and learning and proving their skills. We need more of this in the world .
I had a jug of muriatic acid that I had just opened to do a project with inside of my garage. It was a beautiful 1930 Model A two door sedan with great paint and really no body work necessary. I got called away for an emergency that took me out of town for a couple of days. I had pushed the jug beneath a bench to keep it away from any child or such knocking it over, but I totally forgot to check the cap to the jug. When I returned home a few days later, the smell inside the garage was awful and virtually anything not painted on that car was rusted completely. Things on the dash, the underbelly and anywhere at all you could imagine. Boy, did I ever cry when that happened. It was one expensive mistake, so if you use muriatic acid, be sure to seal it tightly as it will get into the atmosphere as you said, and you will not believe the damage it can do to everything on the car, but inside the garage where anything of metal will be attacked, as well. Our water heater was out in the garage, and it too took a hit on metal parts due to my ignorance at that time. Be overly cautious in using it is just not enough of a warning once you flub up as I did with the stuff. ;-(
I'm sorry to hear about your horribly costly lesson. I first realized the potential for atmospheric encroachment when I rescued a Craftsman locking metal paint/solvent locker. The area where there were 3 gallons of muriatic acid has been fully stripped of it's paint
Muriatic acid called hydrochloric acid will attack the base metal if left long enough. It is recommended to wear solid rubber gloves and eye protection. Diluting the acid may involve using gas resperator as it fumes chlorine gas .I'm an Industrial chemist.
@emanuelmifsud6754…an industrial chemist would know the fumes emitted from hydrochloric acid are not chlorine gas. The fumes are HCL (hydrogen chloride) and when they are breathed in readily combine with water to form hydrochloric acid again.
You are absolutely correct about media blasters and the damage they can do. You are spot on with the "cover the area with plastic for extending the acting properties of the chemicals for stripping, as you are with safety (running water, gloves, etc.). Perhaps you are my lost younger brother...we think alike in many ways, although I am retired. It is fun and rewarding to watch your videos and your sincere intent on passing artist-craftsman values to others.
@@PhillipHall01 Wet blasting uses media, also--one needs to add a chemical to prohibit flash rusting of the surfaces. Plus, with water the media and residue resulting from blasting flows where? Yep, that river of left over stuff, especially on the inside areas flows to places where it will gather, dry out and form a cake like reality: How do you get rid of that waste? As to warping, the key here is what is called "dwell time" which means how long the blasting stream remains over an area, the longer it stays in one spot the more heat it will create...warping will occur. Next up: Dry Ice blasting...
@@RJ-nh9hw NEVER sandblast sheet metal, good gravy people! Chemical dipping is an excellent way, but the item has to be totally disassembled. First they remove the paint, then dip in a second vat for rust removal. Plastic Media Blasting is another excellent choice; low pressure blasting of various types of plastic chips. No warping or abrading of the metal. If a spot of heavy rust remains you simply treat that area with other means.
nO HES NOT, HE EVEN CONFUNDES RUST CONVERTER WITH RUST REMOVER. you wann fuck up your steel keep puting muriatic acid or vinager on it. greatings fromrussia.
I bought a case of Naval Jelly on your recommendation and it amazes me. I’ll be working on paint stripping one area and have Naval Jelly working on the rust in another and after the second application I look over and the rust is gone.
Just a pro tip... I use those pad you put on the floor for aminal mistakes, they are cotton backed with plastic... you soak the pad and it forms to the shape of the metal you are working on, the plastic keeps it wet....works great, almost like it was made for it
They are also available in bulk at warehouses like Sams, Costco. You’re looking for adult bed liners. We used them for the puppy. Smaller amounts I’ve been told dollar general has some reasonable. I believe they are no scent dog pee pads at dollar general.
I think you've triggered a flashback... I agreed to paint a friends '67 E-Type. He was so very proud of having already stripped it with paint remover (destroying all of the rubber in the process) and putting it under a cover, outside, a couple of years prior. Many gallons of muriatic later, with lots of elbow grease, we had a finish that took best in show in Phoenix.
To neutralize acid, you've got to use a base. Baking soda is a base, but Amonium Hydroxide is much better (fancy name for Ammonia and water). Rinse, dry, and coat with a water displacer (WD-40 or equivalent). Also, muriatic is cheaper if you skip the paint department, and go to the swimming pool care section of the hardware store. Muriatic also cleans concrete, but be careful.
Hi Wray, John from Oz here. Molasses dips work great too. They just take a fortnight or so. Very environmental in that you can tip the tank on the lawn when finished with it!
@A. Melbs When I've thought about this I've priced molasses from feed shops / country store type places. Anything farm related. I've not tried it yet, but you might want to consider adding some EDTA (additional rust chealtor) to the mix and some anti-fungal anti-bacterial agents. From what I've seen the stuff gets to stinking generating a biological surface fairly quickly. But it does work.
@A. Melbs I think the cheap stuff. Tractor supply has "feed grade" molasses for about $10 per gallon. I'm guessing it's similar elsewhere for animal grade stuff. Rre additives to cut down on *growth*... you might need to experiment - starting small. I'm just guessing. I assume whatever you use shouldn't' change PH much though.
@@ferrariguy8278 actually I get my molasses from a feed shop (apparently they mix it with horse feed). Use por 15’s metal prep after. Gives a nice brassy looking finish.
Theres a video where an ausi guy did it in a kids swimming pool , a 10 parts water 1 molasses , let the whole fender sit in there for weeks , best i remember and when he pulled it out he rinsed the rust off with a garden hose , it looked like a new fender , even where the rusted holes were before the fender went in the pool were totally rust free . the molasses eats the rust only ! Not the good steel . its on youtube
@@garyhall2583 i have used mollasses also on A model ford panels and even the chassis. Works great. For heavy rust remove every few days and scrub with a nylon brush .
Happy to have found you. Just looking to remove bits of rust from a metal railing around my porch so I can paint it. Now I know more about products and application. I'm fascinated with your work. Thank you.
Muriatic acid is really dangerous to the skin, lungs, and any exposed metal, but it's also really fast and really cheap.The baking soda immediately after muriatic acid exposure is a must, because flash rust will happen very quickly, otherwise.
Wowser, that is the sound of my mind exploding. Rust 911 is the sheet alright. Nicely done, I am thrilled that I found your channel. I look forward to watching many more episodes in my spare time. Great work. TY so much for creating and sharing your knowledge and experience.
Im fixing a 1974 CB750 Honda tank. I had a good shell but bottom was rotted. Got a second tank with a good bottom. Split both, welded good halves together. BUT, im in Florida and the humidity rusted the outside of the shell. I use muriatic to get rust out of the inside , now i know i can save the outside as well. Thank you. Oh, im from Nashua, NH, so i love the accent.
I used Rust 911 to derust the water jackets on a couple Ford Flathead blocks. Capped off the water pump and set the deck up level one bank at a time. Let it soak about 48 hours and flushed it out. Did an amazing job! Got the idea from your videos.
You don't have to neutralize phosphoric acid. It only reacts with the rust, not the bare metal. Coating with a diluted mixture is even a preservation method. Look up Ospho, original/namebrand with a bit more extensive how-to.
I had no idea phosphoric acid wouldn't affect bare steel. If true, that it only targets rust, has me itching to try it on my Southbend 9 lathe restoration. Thank you!
True i used it on a plow restoration a few years ago worked really good and was only about $17 per gallon turns the rust black and you can paint right over it ….my 2 cents
@@johnfoy310 yes, I was glad to find the concrete etch in the video as Ospho was pricey. In my experience, you still have to do some wire wheeling. Another arrow in the quiver as they say.
Acids will continue to react if not neutralized . Strong bases are the same eg: bleach. Always neutealize acids once the desired results have been achieved. Washing with diluted white vinigar is how professional cleaners neutealize the bleach they use
I like that phospheric leaves a coating so you don't get instant flash rusting, but muriatic is often way quicker but you just need to remember to neutralize it and wash it off and oil the part.
I just discovered you, thanks for being here and making this! I miss Click and Clack and your voice reminds me of them. Thanks for bringing back those memories, you have a new subscriber.
Oh don't go on about your beautiful, perfect weather up there in beautiful Massachusetts! I'm down here in steamy Hotlanta, changing into my air-conditioned scuba gear so I can walk/swim out to check the mailbox. 😂 It's so hot and humid here, everything wants to either rot or rust away. Last night I dropped a pencil on the back porch. I figured I'd retrieve it in the morning once it's light outside. But this morning all I could find is a handful of compost with a pencil lead sticking out of it. We don't need doors on cars and buildings here, just need 'ports' to pour ourselves into. Have a great day up there Buddy! Keep up the great work. Love your tips and tricks, and Jason's vw (notice the lower case 😆) Thank you for posting your content. Seeing these projects is inspiring, and often has me questioning my impulse to make carbon composite parts (a well formed sheet of aluminum is so much lighter).
Thanks for the tips , I've used Ospho for years but you changed the way I will do things , thanks so much I restore old VWs and loved the piece about that young man's little vw project, I would sure love to have that
I love the fact that your teaching the next generation i guess you can say thats one of the reasons im teaching myself about cars because ablot of general contractors dont teach a lot of the time because they feel someone will steal their job and when someone is willing it slows down the job a lil bit but then bosses snap
There are also auto dippers which can dip frames and full bodies. I've used them several times and is a great way to do a full restoration. Great video.
There was a dipper in my town that my grandfather used back in the late 1960s. The local dipper went out of business around 10 years ago. I have had many cars dipped.
@@proshaper I’m sure he had regular hassles with the enviro goon squads . Those type businesses have been targeted by those Fed state and local agencies since the 90s. If you have an old shop it’s just not worth the price to get it into compliance which is what they are counting on to begin with.
@@drizlerindeed. Auto body paint shops are also getting the government colonoscopy. The “Green” Trojan horse enables malevolent government actors to steal freedom.
Just a tip to anybody that uses the muriatic acid. Wear protection. If you add water to the muriatic it can react aggressively. I use it to clean out rust plugged drain pipes. I do add hot water to get it going faster, but it will fume up with cold water also. I use it to clean rust off of concrete also.
The phosphoric acid is the best since it won't eat in to the metal, and muriatic is hydrochloric acid (HCL) and chlorine is corrosive. Better option is to brush on phosphoric acid, cover with plastic, and wipe after about 15 minutes. The other advantage of phosphoric acid, is that creates a rust resistant barrier that protects the metal and also preps the metal for paint. Phosphoric acid is a wonder compound in my opinion. I use it all the time, even as a degreaser on metal and for paint prep on non rusted metal surfaces.
How to use phosphoric acid for quick rust remover Does it dilute in water Can we use it for aluminum engine parts Or only metal parts I will be very thankful to you for this
@30arminda I can answer all of these. -No, it does not dilute with water. Water is an acid neutralizer, we use 99% isopropyl alcohol to dilute it if we need to - but there is no reason to. It's not strong enough to eat anything like muriatic. - Does it work on aluminum? No it does not, it only works on ferrous metals. For aluminum we use a similar chemical etch/ passivisation process called "Alodining" or the more commonly known electrochemical process "Anodizing". -You do absolutely need to neutralize the acid with water afterwards. Paint will not adhere worth a dime until it's well cleaned with water, afterwhich the acid will have left a protective top coating. IT NEEDS TO BE WASHED. DO NOT FEAR THE WATER.
@@johnbean2596 You can use Phosphoric acid for aluminum as a paint prep. Raw alum. does not adhere to paint very well. Usually Alum is prepped using Phosphoric acid for paint. For steel after prepping and washing with water, you can clean off with acetone as it does not leave a residue. Tap\Well water may contain contaminates. Tap water is often treated with chlorine compounds that can cause corrosion and blister the paint. Well water may have dissolved minerals or metals (ie Iron oxide) that also causes issues for paint.
I think it's interesting how acids are categorized as corrosives yet they remove the corrosion. However I've seen muriatic acid remove rust and if left for too long will simply dissolve the steel away. Of course there is also soda blasting.
@Dave B > You are going to watch the "Muriatic Acid" as even though it is diluted in the bottle, you can not apply it and forget. Leave it on long enough to do the job then clean and neutralize with a base like backing soda & water. Make a loose paste and rub it in. Mistakes can happen and I am sorry your part was damaged. This is a strong acid even when reduced out of the bottle. All precautions of PPE should be observed and if possible use outdoors. Just be careful, read labels and use precaution. DK, Retired ASE Master 1978.
@@deankay4434 Actually I just saw a guy on TH-cam experimenting with long soaks in acid and he ended up with no part.. For me I have tried pool acid and it literally had no effect. I had an old axe head pretty rusty soaked it overnight in the pool acid and it seemed to do nothing. Not sure why. Thanks.
Hi. I'm an Industial Chemist and can help you understand something. Corrosive does not just mean to corrode or rust. Chemicals are corrosive as they react with other chemicals and change each other.. So corrosiveness is a characteristic of material that tells us how reactive to other substance it is. I would not use muratic acid called hydrochloric sci as there are cheaper simpler easier alternatives. Inhaling chlorine gas from hydrochloric acid is asking for death as the gas will dissolve your lungs. Use white vinegar
Stumbled on your channel, I have been looking for this type of rust removal, what's the ratio on the baking soda and water? How do you neutralize the acid, thanks, great video.
Nice. I wasn't aware of muriatic acid for rust removal but I've played with lots of other methods. I see you're also having trouble with those ZEP sprayers. They just don't last long, even with water.
I have a bunch of older ZEP sprayers that are working great still. Maybe they are like everything else now and being made cheaper, as the company tries to live off its old reputation. I have found no sprayer that will hold up to Castrol's Super Clean for long.
Muriatic Acid is also used to clean mortar from; brick, block, rock, tile, etc. One can neutralize the affects of the acid by using, a Baking Soda mix in water, or even just sprinkle the baking soda over the area or acid.
Great video as always. I plan to attend one of your classes as I'm restoring a 84 Caprice Coupe. With a wife and kids it's hard to find the time! Keep the great videos coming! Raynham, Ma.
I restore old rusty tools using 'cleaning vinegar'. I just leave them covered in a plastic container for a few days and then wash off the crusted rust that floats to the surface and then wash off this black film that forms on the tools with soapy water, and then either paint them or oil them. Works well and is really cheap. I'm not sure how well it would work on cars unless you had a vat or something.
I stripped a rusty old frying pan yesterday in muriatic acid which I bought at Lowes. It was done outdoors, and the fumes were really strong. I could stand downwind about 30 yards or so and smell it. I didn't bother to put on my gas mask, but I did have gloves and a face shield. The reaction should be like this... Fe2O3 (rust) + 2 HCl ----> 2FeCl + 2H2O +O which would evolve only oxygen, but obviously there was more than O2 bubbling out. The fumes would burn your eyes and nose. If you are doing this even outdoors you need to protect your eyes and breathing, the fumes are very irritating. After a few hours, the rust was gone. I immediately put it in a tub of washing soda (Na2CO3) to neutralize the acid. I took it out, and in a short time it was covered with flash rust. It was interesting to note that the neutralizing bath turned red and precipitated rust particles. I plan to try phosphoric acid but I am aware that H3PO4 leaves a coating that may make the pan unusable for cooking.
Works very well inside gas tanks after properly emptied and rinsed to get all dust, dirt and other small particles. Due to changes in on board diagnostic system - 2, (OBD-2) since 1992-1994 every vehicle has to try and eliminate misfire when running low on fuel. This is why the fuel pump is bottom referencing as many use a Venturi effect at the bottom drawing fuel off the bottom to fill the bucket. This keeps air out, volume up, and this allows for pressure. I know it is off topic but you, family or friends will run into this issue. Disassemble the pump with 3 tabs and slide outer sleeve down to inspect the inside. If dirty, it will fail again as this is a fuel pump, not a garbage disposal. 1st pump last 132k miles, if a GM, install an ACDelco because it's the same pump. Only the armature is made overseas as the rest is assembled in Detroit. If it last 18k, here is the reason. Remove, empty, dispose properly then add 3-4 gallons on boiling hot water to agitate and empty. Access hole is large enough to dry with paper towels, the rest drys quickly. DK, Retired ASE Master 1978.
I can't even tell you how grateful I am this is such an amazing video thank you so very much you are an amazing individual with awesome Talent God bless you you are a godsend
I was thinking about doing the Rust 911 process for the undercarriage but using an inflatable pool instead. Drive the car on top, inflate the pool and now its all self contained.
man am i glad i clicked on this video, i've only got 1/2 gal of prep and etch left only the label had come off the bottle a long time ago and i couldn't remember the name of the stuff, now i just hope i can still get it here in the people's republic of california ..... thanks
I've been working on my 66 Barracuda, thank you I' learned some stuff here :) Been dreading the idea of getting the rust out of the inside of the car, that would be perfect. I was starting to feel overwhelmed by the project, I think the Rust911 will help a lot. I didn't want to just leave it but also baller on a budget :D
I have Muriatic acid. That’s great to know that it works great for rust. I just need to make sure to stray my item down with a baking soda solution and then wash it all alway maybe with soap and water…? It would’ve been great for you to spend some more time on that part. But I’ll look into it further thanks!
Ray, much thanks for sharing your expert knowledge. I must add that VINEGAR works miraculously well on CAST IRON. I have an ancient cast iron waffle iron from the 1600’s - 1700’s and upon applying VINEGAR to its heavily rusted exterior, the VINEGAR had a major reaction with the RUST. It left a heavy crust like precipitation that actually served as an armored shield to prevent any further rusting. I was amazed to discover that after 8 years the crusty precipitate comes and bare clean cast iron is underneath it.😃
Ray you’ve SOLD me on NOT using any kinds of ACIDs if at all possible and instead using VINEGAR and €€€€BLasting off the dry crusty precipitate with some type of quick and efficient media. This I can confirm, the dry crusty precipitate is BENIGN and it smells SweeT.
@@jenniferj7588 I think that it was applecider vinegar that I used. I couldn’t believe that amazing reaction it had with all that RUST. After 8 years it still smelled SweeT. lol
@@proshaper do you really believe a buffered HCL will be effective for removing heavy rust from iron? C’mon man, you know the thing, its Putins gas hike. Acid magic is an over priced stain remover.
Beware of a lot of these so called “teachers”. Many are using young ambitious kids for free labor acting as if they are providing them a place to learn, but really their using them to take the car and flip it for money. Seen several videos of these guys acting as if their doing it for the right reasons, but IMO their not. Some may have good intentions, but when they flip the car and make $5000+ are they calling these kids up and writing them a check- nope! See you next week to work on another one of my projects. Careful…
Reminds me of one December back in the 1970's when me and my friend paid some younger kids 25 cents an hour to go door-to-door selling mistletoe. The kids had fun and we kept all of the proceeds!
There's another method of rust removal that I didn't see mentioned here. Electrolysis. It leaves metal looking much the same way the Rust911 does. Zero chemicals involved.
If you use muriatic the warmer it is the better it works. I made pizza steel using HDX from home depot and a plastic tote. It will remove mill scale from plate steel quick. If you circulate the fluid it takes less time.
Mix Molasses exactly 1 part and 9 parts water... Put in huge bathtub..lay down your rusty parts. Pressure wash it after 2 weeks.. Repeat the process in the same bath . Now its like brand new
Unlike muriatic acid phosphoric acid does NOT remove rust, it converts rust from iron oxide to iron phosphate. Iron phosphate is neutral and a good base to paint over. All you did was remove the iron phosphate which defeats the whole purpose of using phosphoric acid in the first place.
Hi Wray. I couldn’t find any phosphoric acid rust removers locally. I have a few motorcycle gas tanks to de rust the inside of. I ended up using several bottles of cheap toilet bowl cleaner, worked great. If anyone doesn’t know about Wray’s metal shaping classes you should sign up, he’s probably going to retire in his early hundreds.
Fill the gas tank with white vinegar and let it sit a couple of days, that will remove the rust. Then rinse the tank with a solution of Baking Soda and water to neutralize the acid in the vinegar.
I found Phosphoric acid at the wine making store in Winnipeg. Couldn't really find it anywhere else and it is concentrated. About $10 for about 500 ml. It is 98% I think. Food grade but that doesn't matter. It works great on rust. They use phosphoric acid in wine making or carbonated drinks like coke.
Most people have no clue this is possible but it works beyond your expectations. One of my students from about 15 years ago told me about Rust 911. He totally de-rusted his Volvo using the same method.
I just stripped 4 layers of paint on my 69 Elco , with CITRA STRIP...check it out. Safe and does not burn or smell. Also...when down to bare metal...I used EASTWOOD FAST ETCH. Now this you need ventilation. The car stayed bare metal for 4 months, before going to paint. It stayed rust free...no rust flashing. You do however, need to follow wiping off Fast Etch, before primer. CHECK BOTH OF THESE OUT. GREAT PRODUCTS....
@@62willy1 It was cheap paint... One coat..then used a razor blade...then repeated same with a 2d coat. Worked for me... Then when it's down to bare metal...I used Eastwoods Fast Etch ...the Fast Etch requires ventilation and gloves...read their instructions. Keeps metal from flash rusting.
@@williamb2854 of the products mentioned what do you think would work best for rust removal on underside of car (floorboards, under roof , panels etc) need something that I can apply & will adhere from beneath & stay put from being upside down.. ? thx
I use muriatic acid all the time to remove rust, it works very well and very fast. I've tried naval jelly before and it's weak sauce, it didn't work... muriatic acid really punches through the rust that stuff works hasn't let me down. You can get two gallons of Muriatic acid at home Depot (get the 30%) stuff. The fumes are very strong so use a respirator, gloves, goggles. The stuff isn't that bad on the skin, you can get some of it on your skin and you'll be ok, just rinse it off. Another issue with muriatic acid is that it gets absorbed into one's clothes so you walk around smelling like the acid.
I knew Wray Schelin from United Chevrolet 1979 - He'd compliment a woman by saying she looked "devastating". His yard full of misc treasure. (I remember blue wooden racks from a rack body truck) He'd say ''I'll give you a dollar - to make it legal". Good guy - Nice memories !
Zep Acidic Toilet Bowl Cleaner quickly removes rust. Its powerful 10 percent Hydrochloric Acid gel formula enables the cleaner to dissolve the heaviest rust buildup. The thick gel clings to vertical surfaces. I am a Machinist with over 30 years experience and I am super picky, trust me buy a gallon of this for about $13 and you will never use anything else for removing rust again.
Cool. That rust 911 is impressive. Spraying this car would cost a little more then a sand blaster but in the long run much cheaper this way. Very cool idea
Molasses added in a big tub ( pool) with water add parts and cover it up and put it in a heated area like in the sun so it stays warm and works faster. Few weeks later you can hose off the rust off the parts you pull then re-use it again add more molasses if needed. Will look like rust juice when done (don't drink). After cleaning oil parts to keep it rust free.
I have a Beetle that I am removing the paint from it. I used Citristrip to remove the paint, once paint is removed I used Ospho which is phosporic acid and it prevent a bare metal to rust if left unpainted for a good few months.
After using Muriatic Acid, a "Corrosion/ Rust Inhibitor" must be used. There's many brands on the market with different protection times of up to 1 yr. like HoldTight 102, Rustlick, ect.....
I think you can use the phosphoric acid after the muriatic for the same thing. It acts as an inhibitor, although I personally would still neutralize the muriatic before applying the phosphoric.
Recommendation for a product to apply under the car like chassis and other solid structural elements that seem to be rusted on the surface. Recently got the dream car that was neglected in many Canadian winters by the previous owner but i think i can save it. So any product that would stick to the car, dissolve the rust and not melt me away in the same process?
Hey Wray, I use Muriatic to remove mill scale on hot rolled sheet. However, even with the lid on the jugs fumes can come out and I noticed the corner of one of my work tables was rusting where the jug was stored under it.
phosphoric acid will also remove mill scale too. That said, I prefer to leave mill scale on metal services if I paint them. The phosphoric acid will remove all of the grease & grim held in the mill scale. All you need to do to remove mill scale is brush on phosphoric acid and let it sit for about 25-30 minutes. Use Steel wool to loosen it and wipe off. Muriatic acid is HCL (Hydrochloric acid) and is very corrosive to metals.
I have tried the rust 911 and it is great. I got the rust off of a set of VW bus rims and small parts before I ran out. Going to get more to do other parts and another set of rims. Question: what prep work is needed to paint after Rust 911 use?
Muriatic acid parts bath is the way to go . Get or make a plastic bin big enough to put whole part on that strong enough to holw all the water to cover part completely Or 1 section at a time. Muriatic acid and by directions. Leave part in long enough so once pressure washer can just blast it all off. then Hurry and spray a weak mixture of prep & etch on fresh clean metal..dry then scuff and primer if putting outside
Excellent demonstration! I remember ruining parts I left in Navel Jelly. So it gets rinsed off soon. Do you actually have to wait that long between applications of 9-11?
I just coming to the end of derusting a gas tank from a GMC class c r.v. and I'll tell u these things that was learned with electrolysis rust removal 1) dial up power, if I could Dil up the amps from the battery charger it would have gone faster. 2) baking soda - refresh after every 24 hrs, and yup that's after cleaning electrode 6 times in 24 hrs, 3) size of sacrifice steel - because it's an internal job through sending unit hole I should have made a T bar set up to easily reach the side of tank, 4) using tranny fluid to seal the rust inside the tank just dump about 4 liters or a gallon of tranny fluid in roll it around cover everything, works amazing keeping new rust at bay, and just before installing tank draining the excess oil out careful watch for extra chunks lol they will appear outta no where l 5) cost yes saved me hundreds for a new tank which I don't have lol but time line well learning hard way lol, So just remember thickness of sacrifice steel and type of steel, refreshing and flushing of part, power i.e. amps not volts ! Lol, and cleaning of rods.
You still need to try the molasses dipping Wray. I had great results with it on my 32 ford, and parts I got off of a 40 ford I founds in the hills. Then after you wash off the molasses I seal it with the metal concrete prep that you use.
I've used the molasses method. Worked extremely well. Mixed 9 parts water to 1 part molasses. Bought it in 5 gallon buckets from farm supply and made up 100 gallons in a large water bucket. I recommend plastic container. My metal one was destroyed inside of a year
Rust is iron oxide, a molecule that is larger than iron or iron carbide molecules. The larger molecules crowd each other, break loose and come off. Phosphoric acid converts the iron surface to iron phosphate which is a smaller molecule producing a stable surface. Phosphoric acid doesn’t remove rust, it can convert a clean steel surface to a stable surface.
Hi, I recently found your TH-cam channel and really like the content. I am restoring a 1960 Impala that my client's grandparents bought brand new. It has never been painted at all and the lacquer is nearly gone as you can imagine. What is the next best thing to treat the surface rust on and in the crevices of the hood and deck lid without separating the skins from the frame? There are some areas of the deck lid that would probably break if I try to separate them. Is there any liquid that I could soak them with? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Steve Murphy S & L's Resurrection Automotive
Buy "rustico" gel. Put it simply on the rust with a roller or a brush. The next day all the rust is gone!it has changed into white powder what you can whipe off easily I searched for years for this product, it's worth every penny.! Liquid sandpaper it is. They use it in boats were you cannot acces all the space, No chemicals needed. Topstuff!!!!
The phosphoric acid turns the rust into iron phosphate which a nice black protective coating for the piece. I don't think you have to neutralize it or spray it off.
Great Video. So I am a little confused. If I apply Ospho on metal and let it dry, will that causes metal to rush or prevent it from rusting for a while? I have heard once you take the paint off and get to the bare metal, you can apply Ospho and it will prevent if from rusting for a while. Also, does the fume from Ospho causes everything to tart rusting in the garage or that is not the nature of Phosphoric acid?
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Muriatic Acid comes in different strengths. I like the 31.45% HASA from the local Pool Supplier. Must to do out doors and stay up-wind. A simple cheap paint brush is all you need. No need for abrasives or rubbing at all. Just brush it on, keep it wet and in 5 mins the rust will disappear before your eyes. Brand new metal to be had. Speaking of eyes, goggles a must! Couldn't imagine getting that in the eye.
You MUST neutralize the acid. Prep a sprayer with Baking Soda and water and spray the acid. Muriatic acid reacts with baking soda to form table salt (NaCl), carbon dioxide gas (CO2), and water (H2O). It appears as a foam. After neutralizing hose it all off and dry quickly to prevent flash rusting, It's fast and easy. I just did an entire front-clip. Great results.
Many thanks, Sir , for detailed information ❤❤❤❤❤❤
So fantastic and humbling to see people still taking trades work so seriously and learning and proving their skills. We need more of this in the world .
I had a jug of muriatic acid that I had just opened to do a project with inside of my garage. It was a beautiful 1930 Model A two door sedan with great paint and really no body work necessary. I got called away for an emergency that took me out of town for a couple of days. I had pushed the jug beneath a bench to keep it away from any child or such knocking it over, but I totally forgot to check the cap to the jug. When I returned home a few days later, the smell inside the garage was awful and virtually anything not painted on that car was rusted completely. Things on the dash, the underbelly and anywhere at all you could imagine. Boy, did I ever cry when that happened. It was one expensive mistake, so if you use muriatic acid, be sure to seal it tightly as it will get into the atmosphere as you said, and you will not believe the damage it can do to everything on the car, but inside the garage where anything of metal will be attacked, as well. Our water heater was out in the garage, and it too took a hit on metal parts due to my ignorance at that time. Be overly cautious in using it is just not enough of a warning once you flub up as I did with the stuff. ;-(
I'm sorry to hear about your horribly costly lesson. I first realized the potential for atmospheric encroachment when I rescued a Craftsman locking metal paint/solvent locker. The area where there were 3 gallons of muriatic acid has been fully stripped of it's paint
Live and learn. Thanks for sharing the story so the rest of us don't have to experience what you did.
Thank you for sharing your dreadful experience. I had no idea that could happen.
OUCH😂!
it removes rust as a liquid but as a vapor it causes rust?
Muriatic acid called hydrochloric acid will attack the base metal if left long enough. It is recommended to wear solid rubber gloves and eye protection. Diluting the acid may involve using gas resperator as it fumes chlorine gas .I'm an Industrial chemist.
@emanuelmifsud6754…an industrial chemist would know the fumes emitted from hydrochloric acid are not chlorine gas. The fumes are HCL (hydrogen chloride) and when they are breathed in readily combine with water to form hydrochloric acid again.
@@Dixler683 I asked a chemist I know, he said the same
@@leonYoong he said what? Hydrogen chloride or chlorine?
You are absolutely correct about media blasters and the damage they can do. You are spot on with the "cover the area with plastic for extending the acting properties of the chemicals for stripping, as you are with safety (running water, gloves, etc.). Perhaps you are my lost younger brother...we think alike in many ways, although I am retired. It is fun and rewarding to watch your videos and your sincere intent on passing artist-craftsman values to others.
@ R J
RJ what about the ones that use water added. ‘Wet Blasting’ to keep everything Cool? Do they work good?
@@PhillipHall01 Wet blasting uses media, also--one needs to add a chemical to prohibit flash rusting of the surfaces. Plus, with water the media and residue resulting from blasting flows where? Yep, that river of left over stuff, especially on the inside areas flows to places where it will gather, dry out and form a cake like reality: How do you get rid of that waste? As to warping, the key here is what is called "dwell time" which means how long the blasting stream remains over an area, the longer it stays in one spot the more heat it will create...warping will occur. Next up: Dry Ice blasting...
@@RJ-nh9hw NEVER sandblast sheet metal, good gravy people! Chemical dipping is an excellent way, but the item has to be totally disassembled. First they remove the paint, then dip in a second vat for rust removal. Plastic Media Blasting is another excellent choice; low pressure blasting of various types of plastic chips. No warping or abrading of the metal. If a spot of heavy rust remains you simply treat that area with other means.
U
nO HES NOT, HE EVEN CONFUNDES RUST CONVERTER WITH RUST REMOVER.
you wann fuck up your steel keep puting muriatic acid or vinager on it.
greatings fromrussia.
I bought a case of Naval Jelly on your recommendation and it amazes me. I’ll be working on paint stripping one area and have Naval Jelly working on the rust in another and after the second application I look over and the rust is gone.
Great stuff! As a silversmith I call muriatic acid (hydrochloric) a cold pickle for copper alloys and it removes steel mill scale from hot rolled.
Just a pro tip... I use those pad you put on the floor for aminal mistakes, they are cotton backed with plastic... you soak the pad and it forms to the shape of the metal you are working on, the plastic keeps it wet....works great, almost like it was made for it
Basically a dog pee pad! That’s genius!
They are also available in bulk at warehouses like Sams, Costco. You’re looking for adult bed liners. We used them for the puppy. Smaller amounts I’ve been told dollar general has some reasonable. I believe they are no scent dog pee pads at dollar general.
Thanks so much. I'm going to use puppy pads on my car.
Glad you mentioned the baking soda. It makes a.big difference followed by quick drying. Good video thank you
I think you've triggered a flashback... I agreed to paint a friends '67 E-Type. He was so very proud of having already stripped it with paint remover (destroying all of the rubber in the process) and putting it under a cover, outside, a couple of years prior. Many gallons of muriatic later, with lots of elbow grease, we had a finish that took best in show in Phoenix.
I grew up in Mesa, you wouldn’t believe what road salt does to cars in the Northeast! Criminal 😮
To neutralize acid, you've got to use a base. Baking soda is a base, but Amonium Hydroxide is much better (fancy name for Ammonia and water). Rinse, dry, and coat with a water displacer (WD-40 or equivalent).
Also, muriatic is cheaper if you skip the paint department, and go to the swimming pool care section of the hardware store. Muriatic also cleans concrete, but be careful.
if you use vinegar you don't need to neutralize it, because it evaporates. just blow dry it away.
Hi Wray, John from Oz here. Molasses dips work great too. They just take a fortnight or so. Very environmental in that you can tip the tank on the lawn when finished with it!
@A. Melbs When I've thought about this I've priced molasses from feed shops / country store type places. Anything farm related. I've not tried it yet, but you might want to consider adding some EDTA (additional rust chealtor) to the mix and some anti-fungal anti-bacterial agents. From what I've seen the stuff gets to stinking generating a biological surface fairly quickly. But it does work.
@A. Melbs I think the cheap stuff. Tractor supply has "feed grade" molasses for about $10 per gallon. I'm guessing it's similar elsewhere for animal grade stuff. Rre additives to cut down on *growth*... you might need to experiment - starting small. I'm just guessing. I assume whatever you use shouldn't' change PH much though.
@@ferrariguy8278 actually I get my molasses from a feed shop (apparently they mix it with horse feed). Use por 15’s metal prep after. Gives a nice brassy looking finish.
Theres a video where an ausi guy did it in a kids swimming pool , a 10 parts water 1 molasses , let the whole fender sit in there for weeks , best i remember and when he pulled it out he rinsed the rust off with a garden hose , it looked like a new fender , even where the rusted holes were before the fender went in the pool were totally rust free . the molasses eats the rust only ! Not the good steel . its on youtube
@@garyhall2583 i have used mollasses also on A model ford panels and even the chassis. Works great. For heavy rust remove every few days and scrub with a nylon brush .
Happy to have found you. Just looking to remove bits of rust from a metal railing around my porch so I can paint it. Now I know more about products and application. I'm fascinated with your work. Thank you.
Muriatic acid is really dangerous to the skin, lungs, and any exposed metal, but it's also really fast and really cheap.The baking soda immediately after muriatic acid exposure is a must, because flash rust will happen very quickly, otherwise.
Wowser, that is the sound of my mind exploding. Rust 911 is the sheet alright. Nicely done, I am thrilled that I found your channel. I look forward to watching many more episodes in my spare time. Great work.
TY so much for creating and sharing your knowledge and experience.
Im fixing a 1974 CB750 Honda tank. I had a good shell but bottom was rotted. Got a second tank with a good bottom. Split both, welded good halves together. BUT, im in Florida and the humidity rusted the outside of the shell. I use muriatic to get rust out of the inside , now i know i can save the outside as well. Thank you. Oh, im from Nashua, NH, so i love the accent.
I used Rust 911 to derust the water jackets on a couple Ford Flathead blocks. Capped off the water pump and set the deck up level one bank at a time. Let it soak about 48 hours and flushed it out. Did an amazing job! Got the idea from your videos.
Awesome to read you used Rust 911 and found out how great it works!
Phosphoric acid is my go to. I use 80 or 90% i cant remember but i prefer it because it leaves a protective film on the steel.
I use phosphoric and when dry as you say leaves a protective coating until ready for paint. 👍
You don't have to neutralize phosphoric acid. It only reacts with the rust, not the bare metal. Coating with a diluted mixture is even a preservation method. Look up Ospho, original/namebrand with a bit more extensive how-to.
I had no idea phosphoric acid wouldn't affect bare steel. If true, that it only targets rust, has me itching to try it on my Southbend 9 lathe restoration.
Thank you!
True i used it on a plow restoration a few years ago worked really good and was only about $17 per gallon turns the rust black and you can paint right over it ….my 2 cents
@@johnfoy310 yes, I was glad to find the concrete etch in the video as Ospho was pricey. In my experience, you still have to do some wire wheeling. Another arrow in the quiver as they say.
That is true, but if using epoxy primer it must be neutralized or the primer loses its ability to bond with the steel. It’s a great product I like it.
Acids will continue to react if not neutralized . Strong bases are the same eg: bleach. Always neutealize acids once the desired results have been achieved. Washing with diluted white vinigar is how professional cleaners neutealize the bleach they use
I like that phospheric leaves a coating so you don't get instant flash rusting, but muriatic is often way quicker but you just need to remember to neutralize it and wash it off and oil the part.
I just discovered you, thanks for being here and making this! I miss Click and Clack and your voice reminds me of them. Thanks for bringing back those memories, you have a new subscriber.
Oh don't go on about your beautiful, perfect weather up there in beautiful Massachusetts! I'm down here in steamy Hotlanta, changing into my air-conditioned scuba gear so I can walk/swim out to check the mailbox. 😂 It's so hot and humid here, everything wants to either rot or rust away. Last night I dropped a pencil on the back porch. I figured I'd retrieve it in the morning once it's light outside. But this morning all I could find is a handful of compost with a pencil lead sticking out of it. We don't need doors on cars and buildings here, just need 'ports' to pour ourselves into.
Have a great day up there Buddy! Keep up the great work. Love your tips and tricks, and Jason's vw (notice the lower case 😆)
Thank you for posting your content. Seeing these projects is inspiring, and often has me questioning my impulse to make carbon composite parts (a well formed sheet of aluminum is so much lighter).
Thanks for the tips , I've used Ospho for years but you changed the way I will do things , thanks so much
I restore old VWs and loved the piece about that young man's little vw project, I would sure love to have that
I love the fact that your teaching the next generation i guess you can say thats one of the reasons im teaching myself about cars because ablot of general contractors dont teach a lot of the time because they feel someone will steal their job and when someone is willing it slows down the job a lil bit but then bosses snap
There are also auto dippers which can dip frames and full bodies. I've used them several times and is a great way to do a full restoration. Great video.
There was a dipper in my town that my grandfather used back in the late 1960s. The local dipper went out of business around 10 years ago. I have had many cars dipped.
@@proshaper I’m sure he had regular hassles with the enviro goon squads . Those type businesses have been targeted by those Fed state and local agencies since the 90s. If you have an old shop it’s just not worth the price to get it into compliance which is what they are counting on to begin with.
@@drizlerindeed. Auto body paint shops are also getting the government colonoscopy. The “Green” Trojan horse enables malevolent government actors to steal freedom.
Justin here from Southern Maine, great work! lots of respect for the amount of time and dedication required to do that!
Just a tip to anybody that uses the muriatic acid. Wear protection. If you add water to the muriatic it can react aggressively. I use it to clean out rust plugged drain pipes. I do add hot water to get it going faster, but it will fume up with cold water also. I use it to clean rust off of concrete also.
And do not use it in a covered garage. It can cause tools, fixtures and anything in the garage to flash rust overnight. Crazy effective stuff.
@@christianmccollum1028 Does phosphoric acid (like Ospho) also causes flash rust or not in a covered garage?
The phosphoric acid is the best since it won't eat in to the metal, and muriatic is hydrochloric acid (HCL) and chlorine is corrosive. Better option is to brush on phosphoric acid, cover with plastic, and wipe after about 15 minutes. The other advantage of phosphoric acid, is that creates a rust resistant barrier that protects the metal and also preps the metal for paint.
Phosphoric acid is a wonder compound in my opinion. I use it all the time, even as a degreaser on metal and for paint prep on non rusted metal surfaces.
How to use phosphoric acid for quick rust remover
Does it dilute in water
Can we use it for aluminum engine parts
Or only metal parts
I will be very thankful to you for this
@@guytech7310
Thanks alot
@@nmtopbusiness3095 did he reply to you cuz I have these same questions. And do you also have to neutralize phosphoric acid as well?
@30arminda I can answer all of these.
-No, it does not dilute with water. Water is an acid neutralizer, we use 99% isopropyl alcohol to dilute it if we need to - but there is no reason to. It's not strong enough to eat anything like muriatic.
- Does it work on aluminum? No it does not, it only works on ferrous metals. For aluminum we use a similar chemical etch/ passivisation process called "Alodining" or the more commonly known electrochemical process "Anodizing".
-You do absolutely need to neutralize the acid with water afterwards. Paint will not adhere worth a dime until it's well cleaned with water, afterwhich the acid will have left a protective top coating. IT NEEDS TO BE WASHED. DO NOT FEAR THE WATER.
@@johnbean2596 You can use Phosphoric acid for aluminum as a paint prep. Raw alum. does not adhere to paint very well. Usually Alum is prepped using Phosphoric acid for paint.
For steel after prepping and washing with water, you can clean off with acetone as it does not leave a residue. Tap\Well water may contain contaminates. Tap water is often treated with chlorine compounds that can cause corrosion and blister the paint. Well water may have dissolved minerals or metals (ie Iron oxide) that also causes issues for paint.
I think it's interesting how acids are categorized as corrosives yet they remove the corrosion. However I've seen muriatic acid remove rust and if left for too long will simply dissolve the steel away. Of course there is also soda blasting.
@Dave B > You are going to watch the "Muriatic Acid" as even though it is diluted in the bottle, you can not apply it and forget. Leave it on long enough to do the job then clean and neutralize with a base like backing soda & water. Make a loose paste and rub it in. Mistakes can happen and I am sorry your part was damaged. This is a strong acid even when reduced out of the bottle. All precautions of PPE should be observed and if possible use outdoors. Just be careful, read labels and use precaution.
DK, Retired ASE Master 1978.
@@deankay4434 Actually I just saw a guy on TH-cam experimenting with long soaks in acid and he ended up with no part.. For me I have tried pool acid and it literally had no effect. I had an old axe head pretty rusty soaked it overnight in the pool acid and it seemed to do nothing. Not sure why. Thanks.
@@blackbirdpie217 Well as to the You Tube guy you mentioned, at least he got rid of the rust! lol
Hi. I'm an Industial Chemist and can help you understand something. Corrosive does not just mean to corrode or rust. Chemicals are corrosive as they react with other chemicals and change each other.. So corrosiveness is a characteristic of material that tells us how reactive to other substance it is. I would not use muratic acid called hydrochloric sci as there are cheaper simpler easier alternatives. Inhaling chlorine gas from hydrochloric acid is asking for death as the gas will dissolve your lungs. Use white vinegar
@@emanuelmifsud6754vinegar just created more rust on a blasted bicycle frame. It made things worse for my project.
Stumbled on your channel, I have been looking for this type of rust removal, what's the ratio on the baking soda and water? How do you neutralize the acid, thanks, great video.
Nice. I wasn't aware of muriatic acid for rust removal but I've played with lots of other methods.
I see you're also having trouble with those ZEP sprayers. They just don't last long, even with water.
I hear you on the Zep Sprayers. I should return a dozen of them to Home Depot.
I have a bunch of older ZEP sprayers that are working great still. Maybe they are like everything else now and being made cheaper, as the company tries to live off its old reputation.
I have found no sprayer that will hold up to Castrol's Super Clean for long.
Muriatic Acid is also used to clean mortar from; brick, block, rock, tile, etc. One can neutralize the affects of the acid by using, a Baking Soda mix in water, or even just sprinkle the baking soda over the area or acid.
Great video as always. I plan to attend one of your classes as I'm restoring a 84 Caprice Coupe. With a wife and kids it's hard to find the time! Keep the great videos coming! Raynham, Ma.
I restore old rusty tools using 'cleaning vinegar'. I just leave them covered in a plastic container for a few days and then wash off the crusted rust that floats to the surface and then wash off this black film that forms on the tools with soapy water, and then either paint them or oil them. Works well and is really cheap.
I'm not sure how well it would work on cars unless you had a vat or something.
I have done the same.
I stripped a rusty old frying pan yesterday in muriatic acid which I bought at Lowes. It was done outdoors, and the fumes were really strong. I could stand downwind about 30 yards or so and smell it. I didn't bother to put on my gas mask, but I did have gloves and a face shield. The reaction should be like this... Fe2O3 (rust) + 2 HCl ----> 2FeCl + 2H2O +O which would evolve only oxygen, but obviously there was more than O2 bubbling out. The fumes would burn your eyes and nose. If you are doing this even outdoors you need to protect your eyes and breathing, the fumes are very irritating. After a few hours, the rust was gone. I immediately put it in a tub of washing soda (Na2CO3) to neutralize the acid. I took it out, and in a short time it was covered with flash rust. It was interesting to note that the neutralizing bath turned red and precipitated rust particles. I plan to try phosphoric acid but I am aware that H3PO4 leaves a coating that may make the pan unusable for cooking.
I have never had any problems using Muriatic from Home Depot. Always do it outside.
First Thanks for sharing your knowledge. When rinsing your panels try using hot water or steam genie. Typically the flash rust can be avoided.
Works very well inside gas tanks after properly emptied and rinsed to get all dust, dirt and other small particles. Due to changes in on board diagnostic system - 2, (OBD-2) since 1992-1994 every vehicle has to try and eliminate misfire when running low on fuel. This is why the fuel pump is bottom referencing as many use a Venturi effect at the bottom drawing fuel off the bottom to fill the bucket. This keeps air out, volume up, and this allows for pressure.
I know it is off topic but you, family or friends will run into this issue. Disassemble the pump with 3 tabs and slide outer sleeve down to inspect the inside. If dirty, it will fail again as this is a fuel pump, not a garbage disposal. 1st pump last 132k miles, if a GM, install an ACDelco because it's the same pump. Only the armature is made overseas as the rest is assembled in Detroit. If it last 18k, here is the reason. Remove, empty, dispose properly then add 3-4 gallons on boiling hot water to agitate and empty. Access hole is large enough to dry with paper towels, the rest drys quickly.
DK, Retired ASE Master 1978.
Thanks for showing the comparison of how the different products work.
I can't even tell you how grateful I am this is such an amazing video thank you so very much you are an amazing individual with awesome Talent God bless you you are a godsend
Make sure you check out my other videos, I have 288 total.
What an amazing video - congratulations to you and your shop of perseverance - a dedication to rust and form.
Thanks for showing us the Caddy Wray that is going to be a nice ride for sure
Jason's killing it on the beetle. Talented guy 👍
He is very very patient and he sticks with it until it is completed.
I was thinking about doing the Rust 911 process for the undercarriage but using an inflatable pool instead. Drive the car on top, inflate the pool and now its all self contained.
man am i glad i clicked on this video, i've only got 1/2 gal of prep and etch left only the label had come off the bottle a long time ago and i couldn't remember the name of the stuff, now i just hope i can still get it here in the people's republic of california ..... thanks
I've been working on my 66 Barracuda, thank you I' learned some stuff here :) Been dreading the idea of getting the rust out of the inside of the car, that would be perfect. I was starting to feel overwhelmed by the project, I think the Rust911 will help a lot. I didn't want to just leave it but also baller on a budget :D
I have Muriatic acid. That’s great to know that it works great for rust. I just need to make sure to stray my item down with a baking soda solution and then wash it all alway maybe with soap and water…? It would’ve been great for you to spend some more time on that part. But I’ll look into it further thanks!
Ray, much thanks for sharing your expert knowledge. I must add that VINEGAR works miraculously well on CAST IRON. I have an ancient cast iron waffle iron from the 1600’s - 1700’s and upon applying VINEGAR to its heavily rusted exterior, the VINEGAR had a major reaction with the RUST. It left a heavy crust like precipitation that actually served as an armored shield to prevent any further rusting. I was amazed to discover that after 8 years the crusty precipitate comes and bare clean cast iron is underneath it.😃
Ray you’ve SOLD me on NOT using any kinds of ACIDs if at all possible and instead using VINEGAR and €€€€BLasting off the dry crusty precipitate with some type of quick and efficient media. This I can confirm, the dry crusty precipitate is BENIGN and it smells SweeT.
I use vinegar too but add apple cider to it for more power for rust ...works great on tools or hardware ..
@@jenniferj7588 I think that it was applecider vinegar that I used. I couldn’t believe that amazing reaction it had with all that RUST. After 8 years it still smelled SweeT. lol
Acid Magic by Certol, is a very safe full strength Muriatic Buffered Acid. Won't harm skin, but just as effective as the regular stuff!
Good to know .
@@proshaper do you really believe a buffered HCL will be effective for removing heavy rust from iron? C’mon man, you know the thing, its Putins gas hike. Acid magic is an over priced stain remover.
Great video! I am thankful for artists keeping the techniques alive! Thank you for teaching the next generation!
Beware of a lot of these so called “teachers”. Many are using young ambitious kids for free labor acting as if they are providing them a place to learn, but really their using them to take the car and flip it for money. Seen several videos of these guys acting as if their doing it for the right reasons, but IMO their not. Some may have good intentions, but when they flip the car and make $5000+ are they calling these kids up and writing them a check- nope! See you next week to work on another one of my projects. Careful…
Reminds me of one December back in the 1970's when me and my friend paid some younger kids 25 cents an hour to go door-to-door selling mistletoe. The kids had fun and we kept all of the proceeds!
There's another method of rust removal that I didn't see mentioned here. Electrolysis. It leaves metal looking much the same way the Rust911 does. Zero chemicals involved.
Great job
Thank you for sharing your knowledge what a talent. This is becoming a lost art. Keep up the great content.
If you use muriatic the warmer it is the better it works. I made pizza steel using HDX from home depot and a plastic tote. It will remove mill scale from plate steel quick. If you circulate the fluid it takes less time.
White vinegar is better.
Mix Molasses exactly 1 part and 9 parts water... Put in huge bathtub..lay down your rusty parts. Pressure wash it after 2 weeks.. Repeat the process in the same bath . Now its like brand new
Glad Mark is back. Thanks Wray!
Unlike muriatic acid phosphoric acid does NOT remove rust, it converts rust from iron oxide to iron phosphate. Iron phosphate is neutral and a good base to paint over. All you did was remove the iron phosphate which defeats the whole purpose of using phosphoric acid in the first place.
Thanks Bill Nye
tannic acid would have been a better option in this situation
@@tminer2110 "tannic acid' Can you expand on that?
Vinegar much cheaper and water and baking soda to naturalized the acid in the vinegar some reduce the vinegar but I like it full strength.
Bonjour, je regarde souvent vos vidéos et je trouve que vous faite du très beaux travail.
Je vous remercie de partager vos connaissances avec nous.
Hi Wray. I couldn’t find any phosphoric acid rust removers locally. I have a few motorcycle gas tanks to de rust the inside of. I ended up using several bottles of cheap toilet bowl cleaner, worked great. If anyone doesn’t know about Wray’s metal shaping classes you should sign up, he’s probably going to retire in his early hundreds.
Phosphoric can be purchased in the paint department of Home Depot. $18.00 per gallon.
Fill the gas tank with white vinegar and let it sit a couple of days, that will remove the rust. Then rinse the tank with a solution of Baking Soda and water to neutralize the acid in the vinegar.
@@BillySBC Vinegar is very weak, ok for light surface rust but not for my situation.
@@theoriginalmungaman I have cleaned up some crazy pitted items with vinegar. Just takes more time and keep it wet.
I found Phosphoric acid at the wine making store in Winnipeg. Couldn't really find it anywhere else and it is concentrated. About $10 for about 500 ml. It is 98% I think. Food grade but that doesn't matter. It works great on rust. They use phosphoric acid in wine making or carbonated drinks like coke.
Wonderful initiative to train the next generation, all the best.
Great Video! Thanks for the safety tips when using acid to remove rust!
Have you ever tried citric acid? Granules mixed with water...soak submerged. Works great.
It's nice to see a comparison of rust removers.
Gee wray the rust removal on the Caddy did an amazing job compared to when you started, that process works a treat great work mate.
Most people have no clue this is possible but it works beyond your expectations. One of my students from about 15 years ago told me about Rust 911. He totally de-rusted his Volvo using the same method.
@@proshaper Does it pay to water blast the underside and get all road dirt and oil off first?
Thanks for another great video Wray. The work you do is just amazing.Simon.
Many thanks
I just stripped 4 layers of paint on my 69 Elco , with CITRA STRIP...check it out.
Safe and does not burn or smell.
Also...when down to bare metal...I used EASTWOOD
FAST ETCH.
Now this you need ventilation.
The car stayed bare metal for 4 months, before going to paint.
It stayed rust free...no rust flashing.
You do however, need to follow wiping off Fast Etch, before primer.
CHECK BOTH OF THESE OUT.
GREAT PRODUCTS....
Hey, how long did it take for you to strip the 4 layers off with the citra strip? & how many rounds of it did it take? Thanks
@@62willy1 It was cheap paint...
One coat..then used a razor blade...then repeated same with a 2d coat.
Worked for me...
Then when it's down to bare metal...I used Eastwoods Fast Etch ...the Fast Etch requires ventilation and gloves...read their instructions.
Keeps metal from flash rusting.
@@williamb2854 of the products mentioned what do you think would work best for rust removal on underside of car (floorboards, under roof , panels etc) need something that I can apply & will adhere from beneath & stay put from being upside down.. ? thx
@@62willy1 Not much help there...TH-cam may help or reach out to Eastwood Products.
I use muriatic acid all the time to remove rust, it works very well and very fast. I've tried naval jelly before and it's weak sauce, it didn't work... muriatic acid really punches through the rust that stuff works hasn't let me down.
You can get two gallons of Muriatic acid at home Depot (get the 30%) stuff. The fumes are very strong so use a respirator, gloves, goggles. The stuff isn't that bad on the skin, you can get some of it on your skin and you'll be ok, just rinse it off.
Another issue with muriatic acid is that it gets absorbed into one's clothes so you walk around smelling like the acid.
I am so fascinated by this. It's transformational.
I knew Wray Schelin from United Chevrolet 1979 - He'd compliment a woman by saying she looked "devastating". His yard full of misc treasure. (I remember blue wooden racks from a rack body truck) He'd say ''I'll give you a dollar - to make it legal". Good guy - Nice memories !
Zep Acidic Toilet Bowl Cleaner quickly removes rust. Its powerful 10 percent Hydrochloric Acid gel formula enables the cleaner to dissolve the heaviest rust buildup. The thick gel clings to vertical surfaces. I am a Machinist with over 30 years experience and I am super picky, trust me buy a gallon of this for about $13 and you will never use anything else for removing rust again.
that Rust 911 is some nice stuff! I'll have to try it on my '71 Plymouth Fury I'm restoring
Cool. That rust 911 is impressive. Spraying this car would cost a little more then a sand blaster but in the long run much cheaper this way. Very cool idea
Molasses added in a big tub ( pool) with water add parts and cover it up and put it in a heated area like in the sun so it stays warm and works faster. Few weeks later you can hose off the rust off the parts you pull then re-use it again add more molasses if needed. Will look like rust juice when done (don't drink). After cleaning oil parts to keep it rust free.
vinegar will work faster with no sticky crud left behind.
Active ingredient in Molasses is phosphoric acid. It is sloooooooooooow.
What would put on it to stop the rust from coming back, without painting it right away? Thanks for the great information 👍
I have a Beetle that I am removing the paint from it. I used Citristrip to remove the paint, once paint is removed I used Ospho which is phosporic acid and it prevent a bare metal to rust if left unpainted for a good few months.
phosphoric acid great we use it after we grind the rust to shiny metal to neutralize any rust you can't see wipe it with water great results
After using Muriatic Acid, a "Corrosion/ Rust Inhibitor" must be used. There's many brands on the market with different protection times of up to 1 yr. like HoldTight 102, Rustlick, ect.....
I think you can use the phosphoric acid after the muriatic for the same thing. It acts as an inhibitor, although I personally would still neutralize the muriatic before applying the phosphoric.
How about hydrogen embrittlement using muriat acid?
@@danbaumann8273 This is correct. Rinse thoroughly before using phosphoric acid
tannic acid
Recommendation for a product to apply under the car like chassis and other solid structural elements that seem to be rusted on the surface.
Recently got the dream car that was neglected in many Canadian winters by the previous owner but i think i can save it.
So any product that would stick to the car, dissolve the rust and not melt me away in the same process?
Rust 911 will work (no acids and the product is biodegradable). Watch both of my rust videos showing how I did the 1952 Cadillac.
@@proshaper Will do, cheers!
Hey Wray, I use Muriatic to remove mill scale on hot rolled sheet. However, even with the lid on the jugs fumes can come out and I noticed the corner of one of my work tables was rusting where the jug was stored under it.
Best to do outside in a breeze.
@@proshaper Yup, I've caught a good whiff a few times and it's not a good thing.
It is a good idea to store the opened bottle inside a clear plastic bag with the opening tied tightly shut this will contain the corrosive fumes.
phosphoric acid will also remove mill scale too. That said, I prefer to leave mill scale on metal services if I paint them. The phosphoric acid will remove all of the grease & grim held in the mill scale. All you need to do to remove mill scale is brush on phosphoric acid and let it sit for about 25-30 minutes. Use Steel wool to loosen it and wipe off.
Muriatic acid is HCL (Hydrochloric acid) and is very corrosive to metals.
Ordinary vinegar works great too. Not as fast, but much more safe!
I have tried the rust 911 and it is great. I got the rust off of a set of VW bus rims and small parts before I ran out. Going to get more to do other parts and another set of rims.
Question: what prep work is needed to paint after Rust 911 use?
I flush with water and then dry the part fast. I use the heat from my rosebud torch to quickly dry, then primer.
Awesome information I have only just found your chanle, those car's your building are looking good,all the best to you and your loved ones
Make it custom put me onto you Wray , love the channel , I feel some binge watching catch up coming ,cheers
Welcome aboard!
Dry Ice blasting also can work wonders if you have a shop near you that can do it.
Muriatic acid parts bath is the way to go . Get or make a plastic bin big enough to put whole part on that strong enough to holw all the water to cover part completely
Or 1 section at a time. Muriatic acid and by directions. Leave part in long enough so once pressure washer can just blast it all off. then Hurry and spray a weak mixture of prep & etch on fresh clean metal..dry then scuff and primer if putting outside
Came for the rust removal advice, stayed for this gentleman’s cool accent.
Boston. They can’t help themselves!😂
Excellent demonstration! I remember ruining parts I left in Navel Jelly. So it gets rinsed off soon. Do you actually have to wait that long between applications of 9-11?
That sprinkler method is really slick. I like it
The VW looks great!🤗
I just coming to the end of derusting a gas tank from a GMC class c r.v. and I'll tell u these things that was learned with electrolysis rust removal 1) dial up power, if I could Dil up the amps from the battery charger it would have gone faster.
2) baking soda - refresh after every 24 hrs, and yup that's after cleaning electrode 6 times in 24 hrs,
3) size of sacrifice steel - because it's an internal job through sending unit hole I should have made a T bar set up to easily reach the side of tank,
4) using tranny fluid to seal the rust inside the tank just dump about 4 liters or a gallon of tranny fluid in roll it around cover everything, works amazing keeping new rust at bay, and just before installing tank draining the excess oil out careful watch for extra chunks lol they will appear outta no where l
5) cost yes saved me hundreds for a new tank which I don't have lol but time line well learning hard way lol,
So just remember thickness of sacrifice steel and type of steel, refreshing and flushing of part, power i.e. amps not volts ! Lol, and cleaning of rods.
The works toilet bowl cleaner, and clr work great for light rust.
You still need to try the molasses dipping Wray. I had great results with it on my 32 ford, and parts I got off of a 40 ford I founds in the hills. Then after you wash off the molasses I seal it with the metal concrete prep that you use.
I've used the molasses method. Worked extremely well. Mixed 9 parts water to 1 part molasses. Bought it in 5 gallon buckets from farm supply and made up 100 gallons in a large water bucket. I recommend plastic container. My metal one was destroyed inside of a year
Wow your apprentices did some nice work.
Great mention regarding any damage to project material! A bit difficult to observe without a ballsy camera operator!
Wow muriatic acid truly works it's cheap and easy to apply.
Rust is iron oxide, a molecule that is larger than iron or iron carbide molecules. The larger molecules crowd each other, break loose and come off. Phosphoric acid converts the iron surface to iron phosphate which is a smaller molecule producing a stable surface. Phosphoric acid doesn’t remove rust, it can convert a clean steel surface to a stable surface.
Hi, I recently found your TH-cam channel and really like the content. I am restoring a 1960 Impala that my client's grandparents bought brand new. It has never been painted at all and the lacquer is nearly gone as you can imagine. What is the next best thing to treat the surface rust on and in the crevices of the hood and deck lid without separating the skins from the frame? There are some areas of the deck lid that would probably break if I try to separate them. Is there any liquid that I could soak them with? Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Steve Murphy S & L's Resurrection Automotive
I think you will have to take the spot welds out to fix it correctly or find another hood. As you know rust never sleeps.
Buy "rustico" gel. Put it simply on the rust with a roller or a brush. The next day all the rust is gone!it has changed into white powder what you can whipe off easily
I searched for years for this product, it's worth every penny.!
Liquid sandpaper it is.
They use it in boats were you cannot acces all the space,
No chemicals needed.
Topstuff!!!!
I found "Rustyco"...
I'm close.to you, here in Hampton , NH ,I've done a woodcarving of Benoit Musy driving a Maserati 300S , fantastic curves to carve!
What great work all around... very informative,
Very good video. I learned a lot . Thank You, Ronnie.
do you need to neutralize the phosphoric acid also? Or just zinc primer it after it’s dry?
All metal preps sold have phosphoric acid in them.
The phosphoric acid turns the rust into iron phosphate which a nice black protective coating for the piece. I don't think you have to neutralize it or spray it off.
Great Video. So I am a little confused. If I apply Ospho on metal and let it dry, will that causes metal to rush or prevent it from rusting for a while?
I have heard once you take the paint off and get to the bare metal, you can apply Ospho and it will prevent if from rusting for a while.
Also, does the fume from Ospho causes everything to tart rusting in the garage or that is not the nature of Phosphoric acid?