Really man from all mechanics, hobby or professional, from all corners of the globe: THIS is what we needed. No blabbering, not just one product, no speculations on expectations, no bias, no commentary. Just straight process. Exact data. Side by side comparison. We need this kinda content. I personally came here to see which one to use on a current project and thanks to you presenting the method, timeframe and results I was able to pick the best one for me. Thank you so much. You saved me from watching tons of inconclusive videos and wasting good money on useless products. I think I can say thank you on behalf of anyone who’s ever worked on anything that involves metal
A perfect video! Straight to the point, exact details, nothing extraneous, excellent photography. No annoying music, chirpy narration, or blathering. I give you A+!!
Love your comment Trish Fitzpatrick. Your blunt and to the point. I also give it A+ 99.9%/100. Unlike most videos I’ve seen on here. Where I end up skipping bits out. Due to the highly annoying music or irritating “ Siri style “ narration. I was watching this and did not even notice until I started reading the comments.
@@richardharries5825 I skip the wobbly bits too but the maddening thing is, it's possible to skip something that's important. The trend, however, is moving in the right direction since TH-cam is growing up.
@Trish Fitzpatrick "No annoying music..." I love it! 😀 I've had to mute so many videos so much of the time! The music often gets in the way of focusing on the informational content of the video and many times does not match what you're watching.
A word of warning about electrolysis - it works well but hydrogen gas collects on the object being derusted and can be absorbed and cause "Hydrogen Embrittlement". Parts like springs can snap under load. Lots of information available on the web.
If you have good, aviation quality anti-seize, you can spray the springs dripping wet immediately after drying them off, and you should be good to go. But I would caution against reusing heated springs or even bolts.
Not since I was a child along time ago and grew up watching tom and jerry and other cartoons have I witnessed so much information conveyed with absolutely no words. Fantastic
A word about sand and glass bead blasting is that it not only as in this case takes the rust but can also take away some of the good metal surface away also. Plus, it leaves a rough surface that leaves sharp very small pits that may lead to cracks. What we used on the aircraft were walnut shells. It only took the paint and corrosion and left the good surface intact without any sharp pits.
@@robertmuse5188 The same way you use a sand blaster. The walnut shells are ground up so they can go through the blaster. Also for larger projects there is a somewhat newer process called soda blasting. using baking soda I think.
Blasting is really a whole 'nother topic itself (no slight to the author; this is an awesome comparison). There are at least a dozen common blasting medias, running from plastic beads to walnut shells/corn cobs, to glass beads, crushed glass, aluminum oxide, crushed garnet, and finally to steel beads. Each of these comes in a range of coarseness, and in the case of metallic media, hardness ratings, as well. The correct media is a function of what you want removed, how rough you want the resulting surface to be, the hardness of the subject item, and whether you want the surface mechanically altered (e.g. etching glass or shot-peening a steel part). With the correct media, you can thoroughly and quickly prep anything from delicate aluminum aerospace parts to the multi-inch thick steel hull of a ship. Ironically, conventional sand, which breaks down into dangerous silica dust, should NEVER be used, because inhaling silica will seriously--and quickly--cause permanent lung damage. But we still call it "sand-blasting". Go figure.
I'd doubt anyone would use this in critical applications, these look like bed springs, furniture springs. Any type of treatment is going to weaken the metal to a certain degree, but it's better than letting rust continue to eat away at the material.
Sandblasting looks fine, but I'm not sure there's a way to reach the interior well, at least not as well as a liquid can. Springs were a good test subject choice as they highlight this limitation.
@@brainretardant Only rust removing method that does not take away base metal is electrolysis. It actually converts some of the rust back into pure metal.
The problem with sandblasting too is that 99.9% of people do not have that in convenience, it requires those specific tools, whereas the liquids can easily be bought by anyone & all you need is a bucket/container.
Tried the citric acid only some very large wheels from a stationary steam engine. Left each wheel submerged for 48 hours, the thick crusty rust was then very easy to brush off. Great result!
@@bumblebee4280 for clothes, lemon juice,salt, leave in sun for a while. Rust spots on my white shirts disappeared in couple of hours or, instead of lemon juice,vinager worked also
My tried and trusted method is water and aluminium foil. Just grab a square or a bunch of foil and dip it or spray it with water (I use an old sqooshy bottle from a kitchen surface cleaner or something similar), and rub the foil onto the rusted part of the metal. This is not only cheap and easily available but IT WORKS GREAT. I have used it on everything from bicycle parts to interior fittings to tools and everything in between and it does the job beautifully.
It's because it's softer than the metal you're buffing it with. Regular dawn dish soap and water along with aluminum foil can shine up chrome and remove rust also
@@ThunderboltWisdom It's just abrasion. A bit of aluminium foil scrunched up also cleans burnt on food from pots and pans really well. Works better than stainless steel scourers or steel wool because it's softer so won't scratch up the pans.
I would have used citric acid but since I didn't have any I used another kind of acid. I wasn't working on metal but succeeded on porcelain. I was so frustrated that other videos were unhelpul and they always involved long wait times and scrubbing. I guess I'm just not good 'housefrau" material-LOL!
I like using apple cider vinegar. it works great . I'd also add that if you don't wash the vinegar off in baking soda to neutralize the vinegar , it will almost instantly start to flash rust. awesome video.
I came here for the info , stayed for the unintentional ASMR ( almost fell asleep ) . Great video btw , straight to the point , plus it was really relaxing ( hardly any loud noises , just perfect ).
THIS IS HOW YOU DO AN EXPERIMENT! For something this simple, no talking is necessary. Let the results speak for themselves. Glad that he showed that different methods required different soak times. Didn't even need this, just an egghead flipping through videos, but was mesmerized. Will subscribe, and I rarely subscribe.
I love the fact that you showed us each solution as opposed to talking ut through, which makes a person loose track of what's really going on. Great job
I am learning about galvanization and dealing with rust in general. Your video was not only informative, but formatted very well. Thank you for sharing!
Sand blasting is great but what about the inside? That stays rusty. Citric acid seems the best and even vinegar. What is your opinion? Your looking at them directly.
You forgot to show the Muriatic Acid spring at the end. It would have been cool to have a shot of them all lined up, but with the treatment underneath. SO you could see them all in the same frame, just a suggestion, thanks.
Indeed, at the end including the untreated one there are a total of 11 inidividual springs shown, but the very final shot with all of them together shows 12 springs. Missing one in the individual shots was the muriatic acid one then. Final shot with the 12 of them together could have still shown them labelled. I don't think they appear there in the exact same order as when shown individually
This was great. Thanks for posting it! I really liked the fact that your last photo showed ALL of them laying side by side. I also appreciated the fact that you gave the Coke and Pepsi about TWICE the time that you gave the other products. My guess is that you had run experiments like these before, and so you knew that someone (like me) might "whine" that "Coke and Pepsi might just take a lot longer to get the job done!" :-) Great video, Dude.
I know this test was to see the best results for removing rust, one person commented on the in side not cleaned. I have cleaned extension springs by mounting them on a fixture with pins expanding them so you can clean between and inside.
I'm not sure if that's the point that the other guy is trying to make. Pretty sure he meant any type of tube. I will agree with you that springs have a simple workaround for that issue but if you were dealing with tube steel that has a flange on the ends it makes it more difficult. Not impossible but still more difficult. (Sorry for Necro.)
Excellent work, and thank you for making the video. It's just hard to tell them apart except for about 3 of them. It's odd though, when you pull the vinegar spring, in the jar, it looked shiny bright. Just can't tell that in the last shot, notlr when it's held next to the rusty spring for comparison.
Great video! one minor miss: In the final , quick look section, the Muriatic Acid spring is not included. But It's there earlier on ( 6:06 ) so no problem. I wouldn't mind having you tell us which one looked the best upon close inspection.
I thought that too, but it was the first result he showed. Had to replay it. The name comes in at the lower left corner, but its delayed and then only there for a second.
I have watched several videos on rust removal and was thinking it would be good to have a side by side comparison. Found your post and you had done just that. Looks like you did a very good job. Thanks
The initial reaction with the sodas was the carbon dioxide dissolved in the soda that "attaches" to the pits in the rust/steel which forms bubbles. This is the identical reaction to the mentos/soda videos from years ago. So yeah, it didn't do much other than outgas the soda. I heard it works great on corroded battery terminals though.
I’m leaning towards evapo rust when bought in a 5 gallon bucket you can use it over and over And it doesn’t hurt rubber seals its been good to and my projects But in this I did see a bunch of things work very well
i've tried some of those other methods. i prefer evaporust, not just for the results, but for how easy it is to use. no fumes. won't harm the metal like acids, and you can put your hand in it.
I also like using Evapo-Rust for removing rust from tools and hardware. It works great but it does take longer than some of the other products shown. It also seems to remove any plating, turning some metals black. It is reusable; just drain it and get rid of the residue at the bottom of your soak container. I was impressed that most of the others worked really well but surprised at the cola results. I thought it worked faster than that by the way people talk about how caustic it is. I like that Evapo-Rust is safe for kids and animals to be around, in case of a spill (and for the environment too, I guess.) I have been able to restore many different tools that were handed down or got left out in the rain, and also some neat antique hardware I found digging around in my old yard. I still haven’t figured out how to use it on my vehicles. I didn’t buy that much!! (Imagine trying to DIP a pickup truck!)
Vinegar is an acidic solution. So it derust just like any acidic solution. It also speeds up the rusting process, if you don't protect the derusted metal right away the rust will came back really fast and aggressively.
I used electrolysis with a split open coffee can as the sacrificial metal on a 100 year old cast iron skillet. It had thick rust and debris when I found it abandoned in a basement. After 3 hours in solution it came out looking like it was new from the foundry.....an even grey color and not a speck of gunk left! Electrolysis has been my choice ever since.
@@kashiefhenry830 I used a 12 V manual battery charger. It can’t be an automatic as they perform differently during electrolysis. I believe I set the amperage at about 6 charging..... positive electrode on the can and negative on the skillet. Within a few minutes you’ll see very small bubbles coming from the cast iron. The sacrificial metal has to “face” the object being cleaned. I split open a large coffee can and faced it towards the skillet. After several hours, I used a fresh coffee can and turned the skillet for the back side treatment. Be careful not to put your hands in the water as it is electrified when the charger is on. The result was 113 year old, rusty, cruddy pan that came out looking gray like it was fresh from the factory!
@@jted68 I am also thinking of starting to learn electrolysis because it seems to be the best cheapest and good choice for any home owner that wants to clean the rust, the only issue is you have to have big enough tank for what you want to clean, if its big item , it means you need big bucket or something, and lots of distilled water which is not that expensive I guess or idk i guess you can use regular water ? Also how strong does the electric power source need to be, do i need more volts or amps ? anyways i got few things to learn and since i have to clean some bigger metal things, I might want to invest in big bucket, maybe even big deep plastic thrash can would work since they are not expensive i need to learn this because cleaning the damn rust with wire brush or electric grinder brush addons just doesnt cut it anymore
Citric Acid was impressive. Evapo-Rust I'll have to say worked really well. Vinegar did way better than I thought it would, especially in that time frame. A little steel brush to that vinegar example would have improved it even more. Coca-Cola and Pepsi, well maybe if they had a lot more time to work they might have done better. Great video!!
Make yer laugh.. I was working with dad doing metal guttering he sent me to buy a bottle of coke ha ha came back he poured into a cup and cut slivers of galavized tin in it then used it for solderng 'soddering' flux what a waste of coke.. I grew up on it...
@@allenhonaker4107 Yes, that's corrosive enough even for rust, but it seems he didn't demonstrate that in this video, so I'm only commenting on what he demonstrated in this video.
@@30arminda I don't know, but I'm guessing it would depend on what the material is you're applying it to. If you are immersing an entire furniture piece in Evapo-Rust you need a container big enough to hold it with enough Evapo-Rust to do the job.
A nice comparison, with reasonable allowance of time. But, one final step is skipped for Evaporust and others. These require that the residue of converted rust be removed using a brush, and preferably soap and water. This gives you a look at what the final result actually is. The black stuff needs to come off. Also, evaporust is considerably more effective and much faster at elevated temps. 90-100F makes the difference between a couple of hours and 24 hours !
I would have liked for you to run a toothbrush down a strip on each, so we'd also get an idea of how added elbow grease could help, in case a less effective degreaser is always in stock at home, or cheaper, or more environmentally friendly, etc.. Super-helpful video anyway. Thank you.
He couldn't do that in a way that would be fair to all products as some of these, such as the muriatic acid, are aggressive enough that you do not want to be flecking them around others such as evaporust can be considered environmentally friendly from certain points of view as it has negligible fumes and smell and is filterable for re-use despite being harmful as a stand alone
I was thinking the same thing but with a wire brush. Part of me wondered if the coke & pepsi ones conditioned the rust and would only need to be wire brushed. Would the rust easily fall off those or not..?
@@bengrogan9710 i feel like you kinda forgot he neutralized the acid before showing the after, in fact its the only way to be fair to all the products because stuff like coke and pepsi just conditions the rust to easily rub off instead of eating it off by itself
I was thinking the same thing. I first saw him open the pkg...and was like "you're kidding, right?? But that worked really well. a HECK of a lot more than I would've expected. The electrolysis did well too I thought.
You really need to use a toothbrush or equivalent after using any of the solution based products to peel loose rust off...distilled white vinegar works great..evaporust is also a great product. I've been using both interchangeably. You can reuse evaporust. Just pour it back into a container with a coffee filter to remove loose particles.
Yeah, fair enough, you should use friction to scrub away the rust when you're attempting to de-rust something. Except this video wasn't actually made for the purpose of portraying how to best de-rust something, it was an experiment strictly to compare the efficiency of each of these methods next to one another. His intent was to show the effect of each one based on it's own merit alone, without any other variables influencing the results. The method he used was the more accurate way to actually determine how each of the products perform. He really did a great job keeping it just about the properties of the products themselves, which is what we came for.
You have a point, but missed the point. Using a toothbrush or equivalent is adding another element to the process. In short this is called "Elbow grease" which translate to added cost and time. The experiment is what most product users are interested in: apply and go drink a beer while watching the game.
I had an old saw that was completely covered in thick rust. I put paper towels on two spots and poured apple cider vinegar on one and white vinegar on the other. I put Dawn Ultra dish liquid on a third spot. I covered them in plastic and left them overnight. The vinegars both worked extremely well with no difference between them. The Dawn did some but not nearly as much. I scraped the dissolved rust residue off and did both sides with white vinegar again, cleaned and repeated. It left a dark patina but removed virtually all the rust. I sprayed both sides with WD-40 to keep it from re-rusting.
I think that can make shorter chemical reaction time by adding graphite stick with vibrator. But in electro plating industry , they use HCl and NaOH treat.
@Marc K OMG, thank you for saying this…I was going to do that on a bunch of parts, and hadn’t even considered the effects on different metals. You’ve just saved me from making a potentially dangerous mistake!
The person who made this video is a genius.. No music, no wasting time saying oh please don't forget to subscribe (I want money) straight to the point, information is correct and accurate. Thank you
Thank you very much for this video and your comparison comments underneath the video. - I love it that you had enough of the exact same item ( in the same condition) to do this comparison. Everything had almost the same results ( except for the sodas, which were worthless. ) tyvm ❤
one of the good videos video's I have seen during the recent times here is my observation and opinion free to neglect, Muriatic acid is HCL, Vinegar is acetic acid, cocacola and Pepsi has picric acid for taste and helps digestion (americans watch out)(but they do not tell) and abit of carbonic acid like any other soda. citric acid is lime powder and is edible, washing soda is caustic soda you can clean your drains, is a base ( opposite of acid in reaction,)the spring most probably was galvanised, usually with zinc. zep. clr and wd 40, Evapo rust. have organic reactant probably with oxygen to forma hydro-Oxide. I would put my bet on citric acid, safe, non toxic, non hazardous, and inexpensive. I would like to see a bit of rusted soft springs with the space pitch more in between, will get an idea of how each of them percolates to remove the rust specially to remove rusted nuts and bolts. or try with liquid Nitrogen. sandblasting is no doubt the best method but you do not have rockets to launch. I am a hobbyist and not a chemist, and virtually retired.
From my understanding, the Evaporust is a constructed enzyme that targets iron oxide. I am quite impressed with it, having bought the 32 ounce size, and then the 3 gallon bucket. Gonna buy the 5 gallon next... It really is magical, and no real fumes, either.
Fantastic no nonsense video! For small items I normally use a bench mounted wire wheel, "Naval Jelly", or both. They work. So I never really tried anything else. I was impressed with the muriatic acid (probably only a good idea if you have a swimming pool, & use this to clean it), citric acid, & electrolysis methods.
Looks like for cheapest and most effective its citric acid - nice one! Personally i always use Phosphoric acid or Jenolite which is basically the same thing as it puts a protective coat on the metal once it has dissolved the rust!
The jar that contained vinegar was turned into a leather dye after the rusted spring was put in it and the vinegar was allowed to eat the rust. This is something called vinegaroon and will turn untreated vegetable tanned leather black. I have used that mixture to do just that.
Beautiful, wonderful video, SO TO THE POINT!!!!;) No intro paragraph, "hey guys rust sucks...but today we're here..." and no shots of cats coming in or other random bs thank you again!!!;) We need more content of this calibur!!!;) Subbed!
Put the rusted metal parts in a cement mixer with water sand gravel , turn it on stand back in a very short time the rust is gone. I have used this and it works great at no cost and no danger to the enviroment.
First you said, "turn on the mixer", then you said, "there's no danger to the environment"🤣🤣🤣 You do realize that Evaporust is waterbased, skin safe and environmentally friendly, right? Does your mixer run on gas, diesel, or electricity from the coal powerplant? How long do you have to run this "environmentally friendly mixer"? Also, how do you get this power at "no cost"? I'm VERY interested in that last part! Btw, Almost all of these were *ORGANIC* solvents with a production footprint about 1/1000th of your mixer and fossil fuel. I wish hippies actually understood earth science before they virtue signal and preach about what's good and bad for the "environment".
The initial reaction with Coke and Pepsi is just nucleation, the same reason why Mentos reacts with Diet Coke. It's not so much doing anything other than the rusty bumpy surface of the spring is giving the Coke/Pepsi a place for the carbon dioxide to come out of solution and bubble up. The soda is just going "flat" at that point.
The last look, doesn't show muriatic? The sequence of testing and the final last look it seems not in sequence. Not so clear, which of the item used. But on the last look, for me is no. 7, but not sure what item used.
To keep original paint, I love Oxalic Acid. To strip to bare metal, I go with Citristrip. I really liked the comparison video though! You did a great job standardizing everything.
I have a molasses tank/s cheap as dirt. Check out numerous vids on utube re molasses. After removal from tank de-rusted items washed clean under tap and then dipped in phosphoric acid solution which holds item from further rusting for a while and preps for painting.
If you are using Phosphoric make sure to start out with a diluted solution, perhaps 50%. You can always mke it more concentrated by adding small amounts. Please wear nitrile type gloves with eye protection and consider a plastic full apron. Always add Acid to Water.
Great video been looking for something like this for awhile. Which one only removed rust and which ones started eating the metal afterwards? Were there any integrity issues with any of them afterwards? Did you check in between the coils of the springs to see if it was an overall result or would it need another soaking? Was the rust on coke/pepsi easily wire brushed off or was it essentially the same as the start? Would have loved to see the same wire brush, brushed on the side of each example so we could see which might require more elbow grease to get best final result. Great video though, loved it! Any ideas for bigger objects?
Great video! Thanks for taking the time to put it together! It opened my eyes to several different ways to remove rust I didn’t know would work, and the other comments gave me further insight. I appreciate it all!
THANK YOU SO MUCH! GREAT VIDEO ALTOGETHER! LOVE THE PLANNING, ORGANIZATION, DEMONSTRATION + VERY CLEAR & CLEAN! How about Acetone . . . ? I've seen some people use it and it's supposed to be non-corrosive?
Ospho is one brand of phosphoric acid that does a great job. I've used it extensively on race cars with no complaint,, especially good in protecting from future corrosion.
You could've included Naval Jelly. It's prolly one of the oldest rust dissolvers on the market. Coca-Cola and, presumably, Pepsi (although I never touch the stuff, Coke for me) contains a little bit of phosphoric acid (c. 30mg per serving, I think?) which is the active ingredient in Naval Jelly. There's carbonic acid, too, which occurs by chemical reaction when CO2 is dissolved into the syrup. That's why the pop worked as a cleaner at all.
I'm really impressed with the variety. I was surprised naval jelly was not among the methods tested though. One thing I would be interested in is how well each method removed the rust from the intersteces and touching surfaces of the spring, where I would think some methods might not be able to reach. Also some note as to how badly pitted the metal surfaces were after rust removal after each treatment.
Hi. I noticed you used cleaning vinegar in your test. From what i understand perhaps a distilled white vinegar would be a better choice since its ph level is lower. Would you be willing to try it?
It looks like the Muriatic acid worked best but you forgot that spring at the end of the video during your spring to spring slide show. How did it compare?
Great video thank you. I was surprised by the coca cola result as I personally used it to deduct a 50 year old motorbike gas tank and it came out shiny. It was made from softer metal though.
If you use the electrolysis method for 12-24, it would have been been the best result of all. (except maybe sandblasting but to clean inside and protect integrity of metal, electrolysis always works best for me)
i literally smelt the muriatic acid when you took out the sping and put it in the baking soda .. my brain recalled the pungent flavour and tinge of tast in my tongue and nostrils !! and throat😲..Thank you for the splendid show !
I'd go with Citric Acid, Electrolyse or Sandblasting. I have tried it all. Sandblasting is usually loud and dirty, but the fastest - for the material you can reach. Holes, pockets etc. can be difficult. I have used Electrolyse with good success, and now I just bought a 20lbs bag of Citric Acid for a old vice I found (yeah, one of thoses big heavy beasts people usually make videos about, but thats not going to happen for me).
Try Brasso, bartenders/keepers helper, or copper cleaner. I can't remember what I used as a kid in my dads locksmith shop. I am curious to see how the chemicals he used here will work since keys are typically brass. If you find an easy, cheap option, let me know.
Really man from all mechanics, hobby or professional, from all corners of the globe:
THIS is what we needed. No blabbering, not just one product, no speculations on expectations, no bias, no commentary.
Just straight process. Exact data. Side by side comparison.
We need this kinda content.
I personally came here to see which one to use on a current project and thanks to you presenting the method, timeframe and results I was able to pick the best one for me.
Thank you so much. You saved me from watching tons of inconclusive videos and wasting good money on useless products.
I think I can say thank you on behalf of anyone who’s ever worked on anything that involves metal
Battery solution is the best rust remover
So with one you did choose?
@@freebirdcanfly2827 so far I’ve been using wd40 tbh but I’m considering alternatives
@@ivanc9087 Thank you so much ❤️˘◡˘❤️
I wishing you a beautiful and Happy Weekend! ٩꒰๑•‿•๑꒱۶
The best day ever is now!
Much Love Thierry ◕‿↼
Unlike Adam Savage
A perfect video! Straight to the point, exact details, nothing extraneous, excellent photography. No annoying music, chirpy narration, or blathering. I give you A+!!
Love your comment Trish Fitzpatrick. Your blunt and to the point. I also give it A+
99.9%/100. Unlike most videos I’ve seen on here. Where I end up skipping bits out. Due to the highly annoying music or irritating “ Siri style “ narration. I was watching this and did not even notice until I started reading the comments.
@@richardharries5825 I skip the wobbly bits too but the maddening thing is, it's possible to skip something that's important. The trend, however, is moving in the right direction since TH-cam is growing up.
This is the way!
@Trish Fitzpatrick "No annoying music..." I love it! 😀 I've had to mute so many videos so much of the time! The music often gets in the way of focusing on the informational content of the video and many times does not match what you're watching.
- I agree 100% AAAAAA+++
Nice! no annoying music. No beating around the bush - just straight video showing the results.
A word of warning about electrolysis - it works well but hydrogen gas collects on the object being derusted and can be absorbed and cause "Hydrogen Embrittlement". Parts like springs can snap under load. Lots of information available on the web.
Yikes. Thanks
Same with vinegar and various other acids, i have seen spring steel snap after someone used vinegar to remove rust.
If you have good, aviation quality anti-seize, you can spray the springs dripping wet immediately after drying them off, and you should be good to go. But I would caution against reusing heated springs or even bolts.
This was my thought while watching…important to know how each chemical affects the integrity of the spring!
Also electrolysis generates hydrogen, which when mixed with oxygen becomes an explosive mix. Need ventilation.
Best, non speaking, scientific video, for everyday uses, on the inter-web. Thanks for your time, patience, and effort. Good job.
Agreed, its like a silent project farm.
Yes, NO BS. Cut through the BS. No-nonsese. Just hard core evidence. Perfect!
LOL, that reads like a Grammy nomination
Yes! I wish some other how-to videos were as concise.
I’m curious if he used regular 4-6% white vinegar or if he used the 30% industrial vinegar. That stuffs amazing
You forgot the most important bit. Which tasted better after the cleaning, Coke or Pepsi?
Not since I was a child along time ago and grew up watching tom and jerry and other cartoons have I witnessed so much information conveyed with absolutely no words. Fantastic
It took me so long to realize they never talked.
Just tried the citric acid and water on a rusty plier. Worked perfectly! Thanks!
A word about sand and glass bead blasting is that it not only as in this case takes the rust but can also take away some of the good metal surface away also. Plus, it leaves a rough surface that leaves sharp very small pits that may lead to cracks. What we used on the aircraft were walnut shells. It only took the paint and corrosion and left the good surface intact without any sharp pits.
How did you use walnut shells?
@@robertmuse5188 The same way you use a sand blaster. The walnut shells are ground up so they can go through the blaster. Also for larger projects there is a somewhat newer process called soda blasting. using baking soda I think.
Blasting is really a whole 'nother topic itself (no slight to the author; this is an awesome comparison). There are at least a dozen common blasting medias, running from plastic beads to walnut shells/corn cobs, to glass beads, crushed glass, aluminum oxide, crushed garnet, and finally to steel beads. Each of these comes in a range of coarseness, and in the case of metallic media, hardness ratings, as well. The correct media is a function of what you want removed, how rough you want the resulting surface to be, the hardness of the subject item, and whether you want the surface mechanically altered (e.g. etching glass or shot-peening a steel part). With the correct media, you can thoroughly and quickly prep anything from delicate aluminum aerospace parts to the multi-inch thick steel hull of a ship.
Ironically, conventional sand, which breaks down into dangerous silica dust, should NEVER be used, because inhaling silica will seriously--and quickly--cause permanent lung damage. But we still call it "sand-blasting". Go figure.
it was aluminium that was treated on aircraft, i guess. for aluminium (soft metal), yes, less abrasive particles are needed (soda etc).
I'd doubt anyone would use this in critical applications, these look like bed springs, furniture springs.
Any type of treatment is going to weaken the metal to a certain degree, but it's better than letting rust continue to eat away at the material.
Sandblasting looks fine, but I'm not sure there's a way to reach the interior well, at least not as well as a liquid can. Springs were a good test subject choice as they highlight this limitation.
Sandblasting takes away base.metal as.well
Good reasoning..tc
@@brainretardant Only rust removing method that does not take away base metal is electrolysis. It actually converts some of the rust back into pure metal.
Stretching the spring maybe?
The problem with sandblasting too is that 99.9% of people do not have that in convenience, it requires those specific tools, whereas the liquids can easily be bought by anyone & all you need is a bucket/container.
Tried the citric acid only some very large wheels from a stationary steam engine. Left each wheel submerged for 48 hours, the thick crusty rust was then very easy to brush off. Great result!
Do you think this would work on clothes left to dry on a metal hanging line?
@@bumblebee4280 for clothes, lemon juice,salt, leave in sun for a while. Rust spots on my white shirts disappeared in couple of hours or, instead of lemon juice,vinager worked also
I think Citric Acid gave the best results here, other methods seem to have eaten into the surface slightly, Citric Acid didn't.
@@bumblebee4280 Oxalic acid, you can buy it at the pharmacy and you put some on the clothes then pour hot water over it, it’ll take the rust out.
I’ve used peroxide on clothes, works great until left too long, then eats the fabric!
My tried and trusted method is water and aluminium foil. Just grab a square or a bunch of foil and dip it or spray it with water (I use an old sqooshy bottle from a kitchen surface cleaner or something similar), and rub the foil onto the rusted part of the metal. This is not only cheap and easily available but IT WORKS GREAT. I have used it on everything from bicycle parts to interior fittings to tools and everything in between and it does the job beautifully.
Never heard of it
@@peterliemareff8894 You have now!😉
It's because it's softer than the metal you're buffing it with. Regular dawn dish soap and water along with aluminum foil can shine up chrome and remove rust also
@@joshmcdermott4619 I don't know about that. I don't know for certain but I reckon it's something to do with electrolysis.
@@ThunderboltWisdom It's just abrasion. A bit of aluminium foil scrunched up also cleans burnt on food from pots and pans really well. Works better than stainless steel scourers or steel wool because it's softer so won't scratch up the pans.
Thank you, I think I'll go with concentrated vinegar or citric acid, as they seem very safe and are cheap for me to get.
@Pooja Jha Stay safe!🤪
@Pooja Jha safely doing the needful is best, sir.
I would have used citric acid but since I didn't have any I used another kind of acid. I wasn't working on metal but
succeeded on porcelain. I was so frustrated that other videos were unhelpul and they always involved long wait times and scrubbing. I guess I'm just not good 'housefrau" material-LOL!
Does the process with vinegar still needs baking soda to neutralize the acid?
I like using apple cider vinegar. it works great . I'd also add that if you don't wash the vinegar off in baking soda to neutralize the vinegar , it will almost instantly start to flash rust. awesome video.
Is that what happens with muriatic acid? Is happening to me. But I’m not using the baking soda.
Do you put on a slurry of baking soda, and then wash off? Or do you apply the baking soda dry? Thanks!
I came here for the info , stayed for the unintentional ASMR ( almost fell asleep ) . Great video btw , straight to the point , plus it was really relaxing ( hardly any loud noises , just perfect ).
THIS IS HOW YOU DO AN EXPERIMENT! For something this simple, no talking is necessary. Let the results speak for themselves. Glad that he showed that different methods required different soak times. Didn't even need this, just an egghead flipping through videos, but was mesmerized. Will subscribe, and I rarely subscribe.
Thank you! 🤘🏼🤘🏼🤘🏼
It would be nice to weight the spring before and after to see how much rust came out for each solution.
You must be an engineer or a chemist.
Good idea!
Even though I wouldn't personally need that info I would find it fascinating.
Yes!
he could even take the weight of the spring, subtract from with the rust, and use that weight to find the % of rust removed :)
I love the fact that you showed us each solution as opposed to talking ut through, which makes a person loose track of what's really going on. Great job
See from 10:20
- *Average:* Evapo-rust; Wd40 rust remover 12h; CLR Calcium Lime 12h; Zep CLR 12h; Vinager 24h; Electrolisysl 8h
- *Excellent:* Oxalid acid (citric): 12h; Muriatic ácid (HCl): 2h
- *Poor:* Coca-Cola/Pepsi
oxalic acid is not citric acid, they are two different chemicals...
what does he use to neutralize the HCL
@@johyw2267 Baking soda works for HCL too.
@@jgizzy Thank you man!
I regret ever using HCL to clean furniture and not wearing gloves
Try my boss's breath, it could peel the chrome off a car bumper, instantly.
There's a mask for that.
@@zap... Yeah a p3 for that breath
Dude u made my day
Chrome car bumper? Dude, where you been? Ain't been chrome bumpers since the 70s!
@@tarstarkusz His boss's breath might be one of the reasons
I am learning about galvanization and dealing with rust in general. Your video was not only informative, but formatted very well. Thank you for sharing!
Citric Acid, Definitely looked like the best result to me
I agree - my thoughts exactly.
that settles it. no more orange juice for me. lol
Is not the best, but is the cheapers 🤣
I was thinking electrolysis, though I was impressed with the Citric acid.
Sand blasting is great but what about the inside? That stays rusty. Citric acid seems the best and even vinegar.
What is your opinion? Your looking at them directly.
You forgot to show the Muriatic Acid spring at the end. It would have been cool to have a shot of them all lined up, but with the treatment underneath. SO you could see them all in the same frame, just a suggestion, thanks.
I Agree! Great presentation...
Wrong, it's shown at 06.02, the very first item on the results. Also on the Show More it's all been documented.
Nuria tic acid is the best.
It would help if he could at least comment with the products used from left to right so I could figure out which is which.
Indeed, at the end including the untreated one there are a total of 11 inidividual springs shown, but the very final shot with all of them together shows 12 springs. Missing one in the individual shots was the muriatic acid one then. Final shot with the 12 of them together could have still shown them labelled. I don't think they appear there in the exact same order as when shown individually
This was great. Thanks for posting it! I really liked the fact that your last photo showed ALL of them laying side by side. I also appreciated the fact that you gave the Coke and Pepsi about TWICE the time that you gave the other products. My guess is that you had run experiments like these before, and so you knew that someone (like me) might "whine" that "Coke and Pepsi might just take a lot longer to get the job done!" :-) Great video, Dude.
You should add a stretch test to see if any of the metals were weakened
Project farm would've. That would of been the ace in the whole. Alas.
I know this test was to see the best results for removing rust, one person commented on the in side not cleaned. I have cleaned extension springs by mounting them on a fixture with pins expanding them so you can clean between and inside.
I'm not sure if that's the point that the other guy is trying to make. Pretty sure he meant any type of tube. I will agree with you that springs have a simple workaround for that issue but if you were dealing with tube steel that has a flange on the ends it makes it more difficult. Not impossible but still more difficult. (Sorry for Necro.)
i like vinegar for rust removal for many items
I restore and collect vintage cast iron for a hobby, for me electrolysis and Evapo rust works best for what I do
Excellent work, and thank you for making the video.
It's just hard to tell them apart except for about 3 of them.
It's odd though, when you pull the vinegar spring, in the jar, it looked shiny bright.
Just can't tell that in the last shot, notlr when it's held next to the rusty spring for comparison.
I use vinegar but I add 2 tablespoons of salt .
@@bernardkinsky1637 Looks worth a try. I happen to have a whole lotta springs.
Excellent! And actual ranking at the end would have been great!
Great video! one minor miss: In the final , quick look section, the Muriatic Acid spring is not included. But It's there earlier on ( 6:06 ) so no problem. I wouldn't mind having you tell us which one looked the best upon close inspection.
Yeah, i noticed that too
I thought that too, but it was the first result he showed. Had to replay it.
The name comes in at the lower left corner, but its delayed and then only there for a second.
Plus, the Muriatic only took 2 hours. By far the best result in the shortest time.
@@evelynmahoney3569 p
Depending on the concentration, it can remove that amount of rust in a couple minutes. Be warned however that the gases produced can be fatal.
I have watched several videos on rust removal and was thinking it would be good to have a side by side comparison. Found your post and you had done just that. Looks like you did a very good job. Thanks
Hey ‼️Best video, straight forward,no music,no B.S., clear & concise‼️Thank You‼️
The initial reaction with the sodas was the carbon dioxide dissolved in the soda that "attaches" to the pits in the rust/steel which forms bubbles. This is the identical reaction to the mentos/soda videos from years ago. So yeah, it didn't do much other than outgas the soda. I heard it works great on corroded battery terminals though.
Doesn't work at all on battery terminals. I tried it.
Plain old soda water works great for this
Glad to know items I’ve consumed my entire life are on the short list to remove rust.
Least you’re rust free
😅😅
A++++. Exactly how a comparison should be performed. Straight comparison, no blabbering. Let the results do ALL the talking.
I’m leaning towards evapo rust when bought in a 5 gallon bucket you can use it over and over
And it doesn’t hurt rubber seals its been good to and my projects
But in this I did see a bunch of things work very well
i've tried some of those other methods. i prefer evaporust, not just for the results, but for how easy it is to use. no fumes. won't harm the metal like acids, and you can put your hand in it.
I also like using Evapo-Rust for removing rust from tools and hardware. It works great but it does take longer than some of the other products shown. It also seems to remove any plating, turning some metals black. It is reusable; just drain it and get rid of the residue at the bottom of your soak container.
I was impressed that most of the others worked really well but surprised at the cola results. I thought it worked faster than that by the way people talk about how caustic it is.
I like that Evapo-Rust is safe for kids and animals to be around, in case of a spill (and for the environment too, I guess.) I have been able to restore many different tools that were handed down or got left out in the rain, and also some neat antique hardware I found digging around in my old yard.
I still haven’t figured out how to use it on my vehicles. I didn’t buy that much!! (Imagine trying to DIP a pickup truck!)
@@BrendanSteele you can soak paper towels in evaporust, and then just lay them over the object.
@@alandesgrange9703 U need to wrap then with plastic wrap also
Evapo Rust fir the WIN!
Given the price point, I am really surprised plain old white vinegar worked that well! Great video!
it's a good house cleaning product. put it in with a slice of lemon, a cup of water in your electric jug to clean it
@@emilyvickery8081 I clean mine without lemon, put vinegar in it and than turn it on for a moment to heat up, hot wokrs faster
Vinegar
White Vinegar is my go to solution if you can afford a little wait....; it's CHEAP and its SAFE and it doesn't damage the metal you want to clean...!
Vinegar is an acidic solution. So it derust just like any acidic solution.
It also speeds up the rusting process, if you don't protect the derusted metal right away the rust will came back really fast and aggressively.
in applications like this test why would you use anything else if natural vinegar works?
I used electrolysis with a split open coffee can as the sacrificial metal on a 100 year old cast iron skillet. It had thick rust and debris when I found it abandoned in a basement. After 3 hours in solution it came out looking like it was new from the foundry.....an even grey color and not a speck of gunk left! Electrolysis has been my choice ever since.
Does it matter the strength of the power source that you use during electrolysis?
@@kashiefhenry830 I used a 12 V manual battery charger. It can’t be an automatic as they perform differently during electrolysis. I believe I set the amperage at about 6 charging..... positive electrode on the can and negative on the skillet. Within a few minutes you’ll see very small bubbles coming from the cast iron. The sacrificial metal has to “face” the object being cleaned. I split open a large coffee can and faced it towards the skillet. After several hours, I used a fresh coffee can and turned the skillet for the back side treatment. Be careful not to put your hands in the water as it is electrified when the charger is on. The result was 113 year old, rusty, cruddy pan that came out looking gray like it was fresh from the factory!
@@jted68 I am also thinking of starting to learn electrolysis because it seems to be the best cheapest and good choice for any home owner that wants to clean the rust, the only issue is you have to have big enough tank for what you want to clean, if its big item , it means you need big bucket or something, and lots of distilled water which is not that expensive I guess or idk i guess you can use regular water ?
Also how strong does the electric power source need to be, do i need more volts or amps ?
anyways i got few things to learn and since i have to clean some bigger metal things, I might want to invest in big bucket, maybe even big deep plastic thrash can would work since they are not expensive
i need to learn this because cleaning the damn rust with wire brush or electric grinder brush addons just doesnt cut it anymore
Plain white vinegar will have the same effect, if the item is left submerged for several days
Citric Acid was impressive. Evapo-Rust I'll have to say worked really well. Vinegar did way better than I thought it would, especially in that time frame. A little steel brush to that vinegar example would have improved it even more. Coca-Cola and Pepsi, well maybe if they had a lot more time to work they might have done better. Great video!!
Make yer laugh.. I was working with dad doing metal guttering he sent me to buy a bottle of coke ha ha came back he poured into a cup and cut slivers of galavized tin in it then used it for solderng 'soddering' flux what a waste of coke.. I grew up on it...
Your vinegar will work both faster and better if you add some 30 percent pure hydrogen peroxide to it.
@@allenhonaker4107 Yes, that's corrosive enough even for rust, but it seems he didn't demonstrate that in this video, so I'm only commenting on what he demonstrated in this video.
Can evaporust be used in furniture like outdoor metal chairs?
@@30arminda I don't know, but I'm guessing it would depend on what the material is you're applying it to. If you are immersing an entire furniture piece in Evapo-Rust you need a container big enough to hold it with enough Evapo-Rust to do the job.
At 8:56 you didn't list which one it was. I am assuming the rust away? Nice simple test to show how they all work though
Thanks for an interesting video, would liked to have seen how Naval Jelly would have fared...
Your voice is silky smooth bro!
He told me to buy beer subliminally!
A nice comparison, with reasonable allowance of time. But, one final step is skipped for Evaporust and others. These require that the residue of converted rust be removed using a brush, and preferably soap and water. This gives you a look at what the final result actually is. The black stuff needs to come off. Also, evaporust is considerably more effective and much faster at elevated temps. 90-100F makes the difference between a couple of hours and 24 hours !
I would have liked for you to run a toothbrush down a strip on each, so we'd also get an idea of how added elbow grease could help, in case a less effective degreaser is always in stock at home, or cheaper, or more environmentally friendly, etc.. Super-helpful video anyway. Thank you.
Didn't even think of that. $6 worth of elbow grease added to $1 worth of product is a tightwad's dream!
He couldn't do that in a way that would be fair to all products as some of these, such as the muriatic acid, are aggressive enough that you do not want to be flecking them around
others such as evaporust can be considered environmentally friendly from certain points of view as it has negligible fumes and smell and is filterable for re-use despite being harmful as a stand alone
I was thinking the same thing but with a wire brush. Part of me wondered if the coke & pepsi ones conditioned the rust and would only need to be wire brushed. Would the rust easily fall off those or not..?
@@bengrogan9710 i feel like you kinda forgot he neutralized the acid before showing the after, in fact its the only way to be fair to all the products because stuff like coke and pepsi just conditions the rust to easily rub off instead of eating it off by itself
Or a tooth pick in the gaps . But seriously a tooth brush what a wombat
Great video! Now I can clean all my rusty springs that's been piling up 😊
You shold have given the Elapsed Time on each spring, this will give you a comparative precise Evaluation. On the whole, Well done. MJ. in B'dos
Most seem to do OK jobs. Vinegar being cheapest is fine. I'm impressed with wd40
I’m impressed with ZEP
I believe the Citric Acid performed the best.
I was thinking the same thing. I first saw him open the pkg...and was like "you're kidding, right?? But that worked really well. a HECK of a lot more than I would've expected. The electrolysis did well too I thought.
What about the muriatic acid comparison? How did it compare?
Electrolysis
That is a miracle worker. The best the citrus acid
Muriatic acid is faster but more corrosive, must wear gloves every time and hold your breath.
I just used Evapo-Rust on a 50 year old chrome handgun last night. 3 hours soaking, every spot of rust is gone. Very impressed!
You really need to use a toothbrush or equivalent after using any of the solution based products to peel loose rust off...distilled white vinegar works great..evaporust is also a great product. I've been using both interchangeably. You can reuse evaporust. Just pour it back into a container with a coffee filter to remove loose particles.
Yeah, fair enough, you should use friction to scrub away the rust when you're attempting to de-rust something.
Except this video wasn't actually made for the purpose of portraying how to best de-rust something, it was an experiment strictly to compare the efficiency of each of these methods next to one another.
His intent was to show the effect of each one based on it's own merit alone, without any other variables influencing the results. The method he used was the more accurate way to actually determine how each of the products perform. He really did a great job keeping it just about the properties of the products themselves, which is what we came for.
You have a point, but missed the point. Using a toothbrush or equivalent is adding another element to the process. In short this is called "Elbow grease" which translate to added cost and time. The experiment is what most product users are interested in: apply and go drink a beer while watching the game.
I had an old saw that was completely covered in thick rust. I put paper towels on two spots and poured apple cider vinegar on one and white vinegar on the other. I put Dawn Ultra dish liquid on a third spot. I covered them in plastic and left them overnight. The vinegars both worked extremely well with no difference between them. The Dawn did some but not nearly as much. I scraped the dissolved rust residue off and did both sides with white vinegar again, cleaned and repeated. It left a dark patina but removed virtually all the rust. I sprayed both sides with WD-40 to keep it from re-rusting.
I agree, white vinegar is definitely best.
What happened to the Muriatic acid at the end. It seems you left it out in the final analysis. Good comparison video however.
Thanks for the comparison! It was good to see the reactions - successes and failures!
But thanks be to God, which giveth us the victory through our Lord Jesus Christ. 1 Corinthians 15:57 KJV
I think that can make shorter chemical reaction time by adding graphite stick with vibrator.
But in electro plating industry , they use HCl and NaOH treat.
@Marc K OMG, thank you for saying this…I was going to do that on a bunch of parts, and hadn’t even considered the effects on different metals. You’ve just saved me from making a potentially dangerous mistake!
How about using an ultrasonic along with one of these solutions? Think that might help?
The person who made this video is a genius.. No music, no wasting time saying oh please don't forget to subscribe (I want money) straight to the point, information is correct and accurate. Thank you
A question. Does the chemistry of the rust removers have an effect on function of the springs, IE failure rate or breakage?
Certainly. Rust is basically iron eaten away. The spring is losing mass and will certainly get weaker and fail.
I was wondering the same thing. Which one only removed rust and which ones started eating the metal afterwards.
@@PsychoPixy222 Yes. I won’t to know too.
I just put 3 different Milwaukee drill bit sets in a large glass bowl of Apple cider vinegar 🥴
@@PsychoPixy222 u can't stop rusting once it's started ....
You can certainly protect the spring afterwards by a coating of oil or rust stopping paint. 🙂
I like regular white vinegar myself, left in a glass for jar for 24 hours, No problems!
Correct
this is what we all need. this is what internet needs. pure satisfaction (quite literally) and instant results
Somewhere there‘s a little boy who now has a trampoline with springs in different degrees of oxidation. 🤪
Funny, but we all know a trampoline breaks long before the springs rust... hence how you get a buckets full of perfectly good springs.
FIFLE
This made me happy until @mdyyyy made it non-fiction
How to remove red rust on aluminium castings surface. Red rust happened due to rubbing in heat treatment baskets. Please guide suitable solution
@@AvgDan yeah, usually the mat. But that’s replaceable and you just keep on going.
I wonder if putting any of the chemicals into an ultrasonic cleaner would help their effectiveness - especially in small pits or inaccessable areas?
Thank you very much for this video and your comparison comments underneath the video. - I love it that you had enough of the exact same item ( in the same condition) to do this comparison. Everything had almost the same results ( except for the sodas, which were worthless. ) tyvm ❤
one of the good videos video's I have seen during the recent times here is my observation and opinion free to neglect, Muriatic acid is HCL, Vinegar is acetic acid, cocacola and Pepsi has picric acid for taste and helps digestion (americans watch out)(but they do not tell) and abit of carbonic acid like any other soda.
citric acid is lime powder and is edible, washing soda is caustic soda you can clean your drains, is a base ( opposite of acid in reaction,)the spring most probably was galvanised, usually with zinc.
zep. clr and wd 40, Evapo rust. have organic reactant probably with oxygen to forma hydro-Oxide.
I would put my bet on citric acid, safe, non toxic, non hazardous, and inexpensive.
I would like to see a bit of rusted soft springs with the space pitch more in between, will get an idea of how each of them percolates to remove the rust specially to remove rusted nuts and bolts.
or try with liquid Nitrogen. sandblasting is no doubt the best method but you do not have rockets to launch.
I am a hobbyist and not a chemist, and virtually retired.
Very nice explanation. You are absolutely correct about the sodas
Great comment
Thanks sir, you've explained better than my chemist teacher.
From my understanding, the Evaporust is a constructed enzyme that targets iron oxide. I am quite impressed with it, having bought the 32 ounce size, and then the 3 gallon bucket. Gonna buy the 5 gallon next... It really is magical, and no real fumes, either.
@@wombleofwimbledon5442 Sir, is enzyme a living organism that has life and produce checmicals because of its nature?
Sonic cleaner
Parts washer
Some of the chemicals in parts washers can remove some rust.
Fantastic no nonsense video! For small items
I normally use a bench mounted wire wheel, "Naval Jelly", or both. They work. So I never really tried anything else. I was impressed with the muriatic acid (probably only a good idea if you have a swimming pool, & use this to clean it), citric acid, & electrolysis methods.
Looks like for cheapest and most effective its citric acid - nice one!
Personally i always use Phosphoric acid or Jenolite which is basically the same thing as it puts a protective coat on the metal once it has dissolved the rust!
I use Phosphoric acid too
Phosphoric acid is what's doing the work in the Coke and Pepsi trials, but the concentration is too low to be really effective.
Jenolite. Funny, I read Gelignite. Probably would get rust off too. Any that stays you won't be around to worry about
The jar that contained vinegar was turned into a leather dye after the rusted spring was put in it and the vinegar was allowed to eat the rust. This is something called vinegaroon and will turn untreated vegetable tanned leather black. I have used that mixture to do just that.
stains wood as well, wonderful old craft information!
Beautiful, wonderful video, SO TO THE POINT!!!!;)
No intro paragraph, "hey guys rust sucks...but today we're here..." and no shots of cats coming in or other random bs thank you again!!!;) We need more content of this calibur!!!;) Subbed!
I showed this guy's paint comparison video on a decorating forum and the ladies were THRILLED. Best videos on the internet.
Put the rusted metal parts in a cement mixer with water sand gravel , turn it on stand back in a very short time the rust is gone. I have used this and it works great at no cost and no danger to the enviroment.
Just very noisy.
Noise is okay. It'll even cover your noisy wife
First you said, "turn on the mixer", then you said, "there's no danger to the environment"🤣🤣🤣
You do realize that Evaporust is waterbased, skin safe and environmentally friendly, right? Does your mixer run on gas, diesel, or electricity from the coal powerplant? How long do you have to run this "environmentally friendly mixer"? Also, how do you get this power at "no cost"? I'm VERY interested in that last part!
Btw, Almost all of these were *ORGANIC* solvents with a production footprint about 1/1000th of your mixer and fossil fuel. I wish hippies actually understood earth science before they virtue signal and preach about what's good and bad for the "environment".
I have a question. In case we use acid, where can we dump it afterwards?
The initial reaction with Coke and Pepsi is just nucleation, the same reason why Mentos reacts with Diet Coke. It's not so much doing anything other than the rusty bumpy surface of the spring is giving the Coke/Pepsi a place for the carbon dioxide to come out of solution and bubble up. The soda is just going "flat" at that point.
A vibratory tumbler bowl does pretty good at removing rust also.
It will pull off surface rust, but will not pull out pitted rust.
@@padraicmcguire108 j
The last look, doesn't show muriatic? The sequence of testing and the final last look it seems not in sequence. Not so clear, which of the item used. But on the last look, for me is no. 7, but not sure what item used.
To keep original paint, I love Oxalic Acid. To strip to bare metal, I go with Citristrip. I really liked the comparison video though! You did a great job standardizing everything.
used on ship hehe
Phosphoric acid (used in many sodas, foods, and Naval Jelly) is a great rust remover found in paint departments to prep metal before coating.
Phosphoric acid is a rust converter not remover, it changes rust - Iron oxide into ferric phosphate
@@codenamenel sure does a great job!
I have a molasses tank/s cheap as dirt. Check out numerous vids on utube re molasses. After removal from tank de-rusted items washed clean under tap and then dipped in phosphoric acid solution which holds
item from further rusting for a while and preps for painting.
If you are using Phosphoric make sure to start out with a diluted solution, perhaps 50%. You can always mke it more concentrated by adding small amounts. Please wear nitrile type gloves with eye protection and consider a plastic full apron. Always add Acid to Water.
amazing video but 1 question, how do you properly dispose of the waste?
Molasses, 1part molasses to 10 parts water and soak for a week. Stinks and takes longer but is cheap and works just as well as the acids.
isn't vinegar cheaper and it also works faster?
Great video been looking for something like this for awhile.
Which one only removed rust and which ones started eating the metal afterwards? Were there any integrity issues with any of them afterwards?
Did you check in between the coils of the springs to see if it was an overall result or would it need another soaking?
Was the rust on coke/pepsi easily wire brushed off or was it essentially the same as the start? Would have loved to see the same wire brush, brushed on the side of each example so we could see which might require more elbow grease to get best final result.
Great video though, loved it! Any ideas for bigger objects?
Hey thanks for watching, you should check out Part 2 of this video! th-cam.com/video/LYr1jDOvgAY/w-d-xo.html
I love the fact that the bottles lined up create a color theme.
Great video! Thanks for taking the time to put it together! It opened my eyes to several different ways to remove rust I didn’t know would work, and the other comments gave me further insight. I appreciate it all!
It should be treated well before rust took place,according to weather,situation &atmosphere
THANK YOU SO MUCH! GREAT VIDEO ALTOGETHER! LOVE THE PLANNING, ORGANIZATION, DEMONSTRATION + VERY CLEAR & CLEAN! How about Acetone . . . ? I've seen some people use it and it's supposed to be non-corrosive?
Very useful video! I just tried white vinegar and it worked quite well!! Much of the residual rust could be wiped off with a rag.
Ospho is one brand of phosphoric acid that does a great job. I've used it extensively on race cars with no complaint,, especially good in protecting from future corrosion.
Does the Ospho affect any rubber (bushings, seals, ect.)?
You could've included Naval Jelly. It's prolly one of the oldest rust dissolvers on the market. Coca-Cola and, presumably, Pepsi (although I never touch the stuff, Coke for me) contains a little bit of phosphoric acid (c. 30mg per serving, I think?) which is the active ingredient in Naval Jelly. There's carbonic acid, too, which occurs by chemical reaction when CO2 is dissolved into the syrup. That's why the pop worked as a cleaner at all.
Is that the stuff you remove from the belly button after a self gratification session?
thank you. In your opinion which one actually did the best job. We can see them but we couldn't feel them and inspect them
I'm really impressed with the variety. I was surprised naval jelly was not among the methods tested though. One thing I would be interested in is how well each method removed the rust from the intersteces and touching surfaces of the spring, where I would think some methods might not be able to reach. Also some note as to how badly pitted the metal surfaces were after rust removal after each treatment.
Naval jelly is a rust converter
Hi. I noticed you used cleaning vinegar in your test. From what i understand perhaps a distilled white vinegar would be a better choice since its ph level is lower. Would you be willing to try it?
Forgot to put the final results of the muriatic acid. How did that one turn out?
Watch again it's in there at the start.
It looks like the Muriatic acid worked best but you forgot that spring at the end of the video during your spring to spring slide show. How did it compare?
Great video thank you. I was surprised by the coca cola result as I personally used it to deduct a 50 year old motorbike gas tank and it came out shiny. It was made from softer metal though.
Phosphoric Acid is the main ingredient in many rust stoppers followed by a supporting paint coating. KBS Rust kit is what I use and LOVE!
8:52 what was it?
If you use the electrolysis method for 12-24, it would have been been the best result of all. (except maybe sandblasting but to clean inside and protect integrity of metal, electrolysis always works best for me)
what in your opinion is best to salvage rusted tools, i have had no luck with any of the products i have never tried electrolysis
i literally smelt the muriatic acid when you took out the sping and put it in the baking soda .. my brain recalled the pungent flavour and tinge of tast in my tongue and nostrils !! and throat😲..Thank you for the splendid show !
The Evapo-Rust seemed to do the best job. It removed the rust and left the least amount of pitting.
I liked the citric acid
I was hoping you would identify the best one as that was the purpose? Or did I miss that?
Same
I'd go with Citric Acid, Electrolyse or Sandblasting. I have tried it all. Sandblasting is usually loud and dirty, but the fastest - for the material you can reach. Holes, pockets etc. can be difficult.
I have used Electrolyse with good success, and now I just bought a 20lbs bag of Citric Acid for a old vice I found (yeah, one of thoses big heavy beasts people usually make videos about, but thats not going to happen for me).
Maybe Brasso won but the sponsor didn't approve.
It's in the video description
Hey thanks for watching, you should check out Part 2 of this video! th-cam.com/video/LYr1jDOvgAY/w-d-xo.html
Im trying to clean really old, rusty, keys. Thanks for sharing your efforts!
Try Brasso, bartenders/keepers helper, or copper cleaner.
I can't remember what I used as a kid in my dads locksmith shop.
I am curious to see how the chemicals he used here will work since keys are typically brass.
If you find an easy, cheap option, let me know.
I think the sand blasting and the citric acid worked the best. But if I'm restoring brass would these be any good to use?