Someone should give you a pat on the back for sharing your experience and knowledge in this field. You seem like a humble person with a passion for teaching and sharing information you've learned in this profession. I enjoy your videos, thanks for sharing.
I'm doing my first body work at 66 years old. Always been intimidated and never tried it. Thanks for the tips and hands on, it definitely will help me feel more confident.
I'm in my 50's and self-taught. Was worried about using two-stage paint but have painted 10-12 cars now and was fairly easy from the start. The bodywork and prep is where all the work is done so keep watching videos and don't be afraid to try stuff...
Thanks for the the great video. I see that it was done several years ago but it’s the best I’ve run across! I was especially interested in the glazing putty portion. Your explanation, detail, experience and easy going manor is commendable! I’m 66 yrs old and have zero experience but with folks like yourself I’m able to do a project like this. I see you haven’t posted anything for a while. I’m sure making a video isn’t easy but it’s so valuable to dyi’rs like myself is very much appreciated!
Hello! This was extremely helpful to me. I don't work on cars, but I make costume props. You may not have intended this video for that use, but you've saved me a lot time, money, and frustration!
40 yrs in the profession,learned something new,scuff pad to clean paper!!!! always blew clean with air.with u tube you never know if you can trust what your watching but i've watched several of your vids, and you are dead on on procedures and products,great job.newbies follow his advice you won't be sorry
I ben in show cars ,vintage & classic cars ,motorcycle Restoration of my own currently im car Guy since late 70s and and Owner 17 cars since than work to perfection 👑 TH-cam is your best source information for your project or something your not sure about the answers are here bro this where you get helpful tips..😒🤔
You mention you are using the 2 part putty. I've got the 907 Glazing & Spot Putty which judging from the directions on container is a SINGLE PART putty. Is this the older style version you used to use? I've got like 12 of these little tubes I bought on Amazon last year (it wasn't clear that the $35 meant I got that many tube!! 😂) so I would like to use this to remove pinhole blemishes on the plastic door handle covers on my 2001 VW TDI beetle. Does this product normally come out of tube so watery and is it still a good solution to my application? Thanks for the effort you put into your videos!
Just watched your glazing putty video and I really understood what u were trying to get across very easy I understand what your doing and saying u explain things well step for step and don't make things seem harder than they are and I like your saying at the end.
Thanks for the great videos. Used to do body work but have not for many year, just brushing up on new techniques and products before doing some work on my truck. My how things have changed. thanks
3 Pointer....Many body filler have zinc, which aids in corrosion protection, but I agree, epoxy is excellent. If I have a lot of metal, if blasted for instance, I would epoxy the bare metal before doing the body work. Great tip, thanks for sharing.
Excellent information & great instructions. You are definitely passionate about auto body & paint. You would make a great teacher. Well detailed, beginners & amatures like me are very greatful to have instructions like this. Body work & paint is very intimidating. Thank you for making it more inviting & less apprehensive. I keep watching & learning.
I never knew about the glazing....now I do....I always wondered how they went to ultra smooth fiber/bondo to paint...I just could never get there...now I know...thanks man...you're the best...
Donnie your videos are very informative and more professional than a guy out there that has auto body videos in a web page and charges 179.00 USD for the VIP access. I went to school for auto body in high school back in the 90's. Now I'm learning to airbrush and Iove your videos. Thanks.
hey im not the best at body work but i can make do, i could never get the bondo completely smooth no matter how much i sanded or what grit i used.now i know about this glazing putty which is awesome. Thank you so much!!!
I find that one of the most important things to remember when block sanding filler is to use a coarse grit sandpaper to get the filler flat before going over it with 180-220. If you start out with paper that is too fine you filler with turn out wavy.
The red putty is a little different. That is a 1k product. The product I am using in the video is a 2k product. The 2k dries much faster and does not shrink like the 1k..
Thank you very much for the lesson learning how to paint and do body work on my own wish I could find a good shop to Apprentice through but I'm wondering what type of putty glaze are you guys using it looks really user-friendly
I am glad you like the videos. I am in the process of making the videos with better audio and visual. It'e been a learn as I go process on the video editing. Thanks for watching!
polyester putty should never go over paint or recently applied primer, although the manufactures say you can it will always sink around the outside edge.It may not happen right away but over a few months it's pretty much guaranteed to do so.Also NEVER EVER apply fillers up and down always spread the fillers as the wind would go over the car. Spreading it in a vertical application will make a whole lot more work to get the panel straight
One very important piece of information you left out that you seem to be ignoring is to stop sanding when you see metal. Metal sands a lot slower that body materials, so if you continue sanding (as I see you are doing in this video), you are creating high spots (metal areas). You should stop sanding and apply more spot putty over the entire area where the metal is exposed to bring up the low spots.
Hi donnie, but my question is..so from the first video repair to this one what if you didn't wanna use glazing putty. would you just have finished the work off by sanding with 150 grit or a little finer up to 180 grit?
150 to 220 grit, just so you're not priming over 80 grit. Usually people use glazing putty to fill pinholes and bring the grit up without going through the bondo.
Ive been a drywall finisher for 13 years. Might have to get into this. It looks pretty easy. Im surprised to see you sanding with 150 though. If we do that with the putty it'll be scratch central after prime and paint.
That's why you don't sand drywall..............that and the mess sanding makes. If you know what you're doing just sponging it is all you have to do.Sponging will also fill in all the fine air bubbles that would get opened up with sanding.
Hey man can you make a video explaining, what to use and why to use certain types of bundle in certain situations, can I apply normal bundle over paint or primer, and in what phase of the body work been done to a car can I use putty.
I have did body work in long time. My son car , a little paint came off. I try to just use red putty. But it did work good enough. So I have to use body putty. . Could I just use glazed putty. I still have a high spot, after I paint. Did not see it. Can use glaze putty over top of the paint, to make it smooth?
Hi ! Thanks for the video I think it was very good. I was wondering if you can help me out. I have a Fiberglass Jeep CJ that was previously painted and now I am redoing the paint,I started out sanding the paint with a block and 400 grit and when I finished one side of the Jeep I put on guide coat and notice very small and light dark areas from front to back of the Tub (Fiberglass). My question is; Can I use 3M acrylic putty to fill them up or do I use body filler? and what grit of sand paper should I use to get the putty to grab? If you can answer me It will be appreciated ,Thanks.,
I see this question is 9 years old but for someone having the same problem is spray a sealer primer. There’s a difference between the two. The sealer primer does exactly what it says. It seals it under the primer so you don’t see it. If you prime something and you can see something, your paint coat won’t cover it up. You’ll see it again
Kudos! Does glaze putty have issues in being applied over etch or surface primers? In your description it sounds like glaze putty is a miracle product that can be applied over any primed, filled or bare metal as well as over old pre-existing paint.
That is the one product I am not sure about. Etch primer has acid so it may react with the putty. But premium body fillers and glaze putty have zinc for corrosion protection so you really don't need to apply self etch before applying the putty.
my panel is pretty smooth ..I do have a few dime sized areas where it's approx 1/32 of inch low spots ...Will this fill those areas of do I need more body fill. the product I am using is called seal skin polyester glaze...thanks
Most glazes state up to 1/8 inch after sanded so you should be fine to use the glaze. The Seal Skin is by Crest and they don't actually say on their technical data sheet, but on other brands such as Metal Glaze from Evercoat, they say 3 mm - 1/8 inch max after sanded. So you should be good. Here is a link to Metal Glaze TDS www.evercoat.com/images/ePIM/original/TDSMetalGlazeUltra103625English.pdf
Donnie Smith Hi I've filled all my hail damage on my hood. I've just went sanded the three coats of primer but I still see some shadows of the filler. Can I fill this with something or do I need to sand it back down again? It hardly noticable but I just dont know
What's the most sandable sot putty on the market? I have tiny chips from stones hitting the hood, taking off the paint down to the metal. I don't want to send down the whole hood just for 20 pinholes
Hello Donnie, I just discovered your video and I have not completed viewing them all just yet. I am more interested in learning how to paint motorcycles and eventually some cars if the need should ever arise. My question to you is, do all the rules apply in the same order. Any tips/videos you have would be greatly appreciated.
Hi Donnie, great Vids, Tell me , do you sand of the guide cote in the low area's before reaplying a second layer of body filler or glaze putty ? Thank you ans have your self a great day :)
I think that if you are going to let the panal sit for a long time, like a year, and especially in a non heated garage, you'd probably want to coat the panels in epoxy primer or a good primer sealer (not primer surfacer or high build primer, or filler, or metal or glazing putty). Epoxy and primer sealer are not porous, but the others are.
I learned that if you can use products from the same company. I worked in the police photo lab and used Kodac products exclusive. Lab techs would help you when you had a problem, only if you used their products.
Hello Donnie .. I want you to made one Video that explain step by step How to paint a car and what is the product you use .... i really like your videos you are perfect
I noticed you applied an 80 grit to glazing putty, is that because you spread it on more thickly than one typically would? Also, I wanted to know if I should always block sand once I've gotten to the putty application stage. I noticed some people using a DA to feather out their edges. I presume it's best to block sand only since it's not as dense as bondo?
Don, I have a new BRZ and although not noticing everyone I have a spot underneath the Bumper lip I want to touch up. I have the exact paint and only needs a very light coat of filler. Where can I get this and would the be my best bet. Thanks !
Silk Boxing You may be able to use a small amount of flexible parts putty. On bumpers, you will need to apply plastic adhesion promotor to ensure adhesion. You can see the putty at CollisionBlast.com/flex
Do I have to sand over the body of my car before applying the filler? I have a big scratch that is deep on only 1/10th of it and the rest is fairly light but I might as well respray the entire area. Also what's the difference between spot and glazing putty?
Polyester puddy is not ment to be over 1/8" thick but it can be squeezed into stone chips providing there is no rust underneath the chips...I ask the owner what kind of job they want just make it look good for a couple of years or a restoration? If it is a look good then I go over the front end of the car with puffy filling in the chips squeeze it in tight just after I wash and wipe the car to remove wax and chemical residue once all the chips are filled then I check for dents a dimples repair those areas finish sanding those areas with 240 anything courser than 220 can end up to showing heavy scratches down the road do to sinkege of paint when it fully drys down the road... then apply a thin coat of puddy just for pinholes if needed prime that area then sand the car for paint...as well as the puddy on the hood was the car is sanded then washed with soap and water to wash out all the dust then dry, mask, and a final wash & wipe and it is ready for paint...I find no sence to sand the chips first unless it is a restoration project but for a quick clean up I had this last quite a few years for the small chips...
Someone should give you a pat on the back for sharing your experience and knowledge in this field. You seem like a humble person with a passion for teaching and sharing information you've learned in this profession. I enjoy your videos, thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the kind words and for watching the videos.
Amen to that earnest spirit of his; I can count on TH-cam to reveal the best in America. Too much trash and synthetic types on mainstream media.
I'm doing my first body work at 66 years old. Always been intimidated and never tried it. Thanks for the tips and hands on, it definitely will help me feel more confident.
I'm in my 50's and self-taught. Was worried about using two-stage paint but have painted 10-12 cars now and was fairly easy from the start. The bodywork and prep is where all the work is done so keep watching videos and don't be afraid to try stuff...
Happy 72nd birthday.
@@cognac8297, it was 73, but, who's counting..lol
Thanks for the the great video. I see that it was done several years ago but it’s the best I’ve run across! I was especially interested in the glazing putty portion. Your explanation, detail, experience and easy going manor is commendable! I’m 66 yrs old and have zero experience but with folks like yourself I’m able to do a project like this. I see you haven’t posted anything for a while. I’m sure making a video isn’t easy but it’s so valuable to dyi’rs like myself is very much appreciated!
Thank you. I have been busy, but I plan to make more in the future.
3M says they're one part putty is good now
Great job, great job. Especially the description of the stopping and starting paint points. Good teacher. You have a talent there.
Thanks.
This video was a long time ago, but your kind words came at a time when I needed it. Thanks for watching,
Hello! This was extremely helpful to me. I don't work on cars, but I make costume props. You may not have intended this video for that use, but you've saved me a lot time, money, and frustration!
40 yrs in the profession,learned something new,scuff pad to clean paper!!!! always blew clean with air.with u tube you never know if you can trust what your watching but i've watched several of your vids, and you are dead on on procedures and products,great job.newbies follow his advice you won't be sorry
I've been doing it for 2 years and just learned that myself. There's always new tricks to learn it seems.
Larry Ryan you can also use a soft wire bristle brush, it works excellent as well for cleaning paper especially when it gets loaded.
I ben in show cars ,vintage & classic cars ,motorcycle Restoration of my own currently im car Guy since late 70s and and Owner 17 cars since than work to perfection 👑 TH-cam is your best source information for your project or something your not sure about the answers are here bro this where you get helpful tips..😒🤔
I am glad you like the video. Thanks for the suggestion and for watching them.
You mention you are using the 2 part putty. I've got the 907 Glazing & Spot Putty which judging from the directions on container is a SINGLE PART putty.
Is this the older style version you used to use? I've got like 12 of these little tubes I bought on Amazon last year (it wasn't clear that the $35 meant I got that many tube!! 😂) so I would like to use this to remove pinhole blemishes on the plastic door handle covers on my 2001 VW TDI beetle.
Does this product normally come out of tube so watery and is it still a good solution to my application?
Thanks for the effort you put into your videos!
Just watched your glazing putty video and I really understood what u were trying to get across very easy I understand what your doing and saying u explain things well step for step and don't make things seem harder than they are and I like your saying at the end.
Very good teacher. Thorough and saves alot of time on my Chevelle
Thanks for watching. You can find more about fillers at www.collisionblast.com/body-fillers/
Donnie Smith I thank you for making this very informative video. You were able to confirm some details for me. Much appreciated.
Great information and demo. Just getting into stage 2 and this is real helpful
Thanks for the great videos. Used to do body work but have not for many year, just brushing up on new techniques and products before doing some work on my truck. My how things have changed. thanks
3 Pointer....Many body filler have zinc, which aids in corrosion protection, but I agree, epoxy is excellent. If I have a lot of metal, if blasted for instance, I would epoxy the bare metal before doing the body work. Great tip, thanks for sharing.
Excellent information & great instructions. You are definitely passionate about auto body & paint. You would make a great teacher. Well detailed, beginners & amatures like me are very greatful to have instructions like this. Body work & paint is very intimidating. Thank you for making it more inviting & less apprehensive. I keep watching & learning.
I never knew about the glazing....now I do....I always wondered how they went to ultra smooth fiber/bondo to paint...I just could never get there...now I know...thanks man...you're the best...
Donnie your videos are very informative and more professional than a guy out there that has auto body videos in a web page and charges 179.00 USD for the VIP access. I went to school for auto body in high school back in the 90's. Now I'm learning to airbrush and Iove your videos. Thanks.
Hi Donnie.
Just viewed your video on 'putty glaze over bondo'. Fantastic lesson.
Many thanks.
Keith.
Thanks for watching!
hey im not the best at body work but i can make do, i could never get the bondo completely smooth no matter how much i sanded or what grit i used.now i know about this glazing putty which is awesome. Thank you so much!!!
Your vids are brilliant. Practical and very useful!
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for watching Cheator40
The music at the end was great. The whole video was done well. Nice job.
I find that one of the most important things to remember when block sanding filler is to use a coarse grit sandpaper to get the filler flat before going over it with 180-220. If you start out with paper that is too fine you filler with turn out wavy.
Like the way you explain each step. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
I usually do to rough up the low area. Just don't lose sight of where the low areas are.
The red putty is a little different. That is a 1k product. The product I am using in the video is a 2k product. The 2k dries much faster and does not shrink like the 1k..
Thank you very much for the lesson learning how to paint and do body work on my own wish I could find a good shop to Apprentice through but I'm wondering what type of putty glaze are you guys using it looks really user-friendly
You don't have to prime the area that's being glazed first ? Thanks for the video Denny looks like your doing it right😉
No you most definitely do not. Using the glaze is what you do right before primer
No because it should be body filled already. This is just sealer for body filler basically
I am glad you like the videos. I am in the process of making the videos with better audio and visual. It'e been a learn as I go process on the video editing. Thanks for watching!
Just learning, thanks for the video.
Really good,informative video! Thank you..🎄😄
Great videos, Donnie! I watch almost all of them.
Hey mane this dude be just saved my life now i be kno how to fix da bondo
Great info & technique
Excellent professional video 👌🏽happy thanks giving
polyester putty should never go over paint or recently applied primer, although the manufactures say you can it will always sink around the outside edge.It may not happen right away but over a few months it's pretty much guaranteed to do so.Also NEVER EVER apply fillers up and down always spread the fillers as the wind would go over the car. Spreading it in a vertical application will make a whole lot more work to get the panel straight
Very good professional advice, thanks for the vids
Very smooth application
One very important piece of information you left out that you seem to be ignoring is to stop sanding when you see metal. Metal sands a lot slower that body materials, so if you continue sanding (as I see you are doing in this video), you are creating high spots (metal areas). You should stop sanding and apply more spot putty over the entire area where the metal is exposed to bring up the low spots.
Very helpful. Thank you very much!
3 Pointer...great tips, thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
Hi donnie, but my question is..so from the first video repair to this one what if you didn't wanna use glazing putty. would you just have finished the work off by sanding with 150 grit or a little finer up to 180 grit?
150 to 220 grit, just so you're not priming over 80 grit. Usually people use glazing putty to fill pinholes and bring the grit up without going through the bondo.
Ive been a drywall finisher for 13 years. Might have to get into this. It looks pretty easy. Im surprised to see you sanding with 150 though. If we do that with the putty it'll be scratch central after prime and paint.
He will prime the repair area and block it with 320 or 400 to fill the 150 scratches
That's why you don't sand drywall..............that and the mess sanding makes.
If you know what you're doing just sponging it is all you have to do.Sponging will also fill in all the fine air bubbles that would get opened up with sanding.
Hey man can you make a video explaining, what to use and why to use certain types of bundle in certain situations, can I apply normal bundle over paint or primer, and in what phase of the body work been done to a car can I use putty.
These videos are very helpful, thank you.
Thanks for watching! Here is a video series with the basics you may also find useful... Basic Dent Repair For Beginners - Autobody Basics
Thanks for posting Donny
I have did body work in long time. My son car , a little paint came off. I try to just use red putty. But it did work good enough. So I have to use body putty. . Could I just use glazed putty. I still have a high spot, after I paint. Did not see it. Can use glaze putty over top of the paint, to make it smooth?
As allways Great information. Thanks for sharing.
Hi ! Thanks for the video I think it was very good. I was wondering if you can help me out. I have a Fiberglass Jeep CJ that was previously painted and now I am redoing the paint,I started out sanding the paint with a block and 400 grit and when I finished one side of the Jeep I put on guide coat and notice very small and light dark areas from front to back of the Tub (Fiberglass). My question is; Can I use 3M acrylic putty to fill them up or do I use body filler? and what grit of sand paper should I use to get the putty to grab? If you can answer me It will be appreciated ,Thanks.,
I see this question is 9 years old but for someone having the same problem is spray a sealer primer. There’s a difference between the two. The sealer primer does exactly what it says. It seals it under the primer so you don’t see it. If you prime something and you can see something, your paint coat won’t cover it up. You’ll see it again
@@stevegriffin2626 Thank you for taking the time to write and help others.👍🏽
The "guide coat" idea is good. I am wondering if there are other ways to check if the surface is smooth?
Cheap semi gloss rattle can..
Sometimes a straight edge if the surface is acceptable for that method
MAN! ALL YOUR VIDS ARE THE BEST! EXACTLY WHAT I NEED! thanks :)
Good job of applying and explaining, but metal spreaders make the job easier.
That is a good point, thanks for sharing. And 3 points!
Great videos, thanks a lot!
Thanks Lyle!
Can do you a video on alloy wheel repairs?
March 13, 2021 Helpful Tutorial Thank You Mr Smith! ~ I am inspried to try Putty Glaze on my Project (Integra) ~ WHAT is now the best BRAND? Andy
Hi Andy, I answered your question in this video. I hope you find it useful - th-cam.com/video/ym3Rdpq4Fpc/w-d-xo.html
Kudos! Does glaze putty have issues in being applied over etch or surface primers? In your description it sounds like glaze putty is a miracle product that can be applied over any primed, filled or bare metal as well as over old pre-existing paint.
That is the one product I am not sure about. Etch primer has acid so it may react with the putty. But premium body fillers and glaze putty have zinc for corrosion protection so you really don't need to apply self etch before applying the putty.
Good info. I appreciate it.
my panel is pretty smooth ..I do have a few dime sized areas where it's approx 1/32 of inch low spots ...Will this fill those areas of do I need more body fill. the product I am using is called seal skin polyester glaze...thanks
Most glazes state up to 1/8 inch after sanded so you should be fine to use the glaze. The Seal Skin is by Crest and they don't actually say on their technical data sheet, but on other brands such as Metal Glaze from Evercoat, they say 3 mm - 1/8 inch max after sanded. So you should be good. Here is a link to Metal Glaze TDS www.evercoat.com/images/ePIM/original/TDSMetalGlazeUltra103625English.pdf
Donnie Smith
Hi I've filled all my hail damage on my hood. I've just went sanded the three coats of primer but I still see some shadows of the filler. Can I fill this with something or do I need to sand it back down again?
It hardly noticable but I just dont know
@@toddhuddleston9070 filler may be high or just need few more coats of primer
What's the most sandable sot putty on the market?
I have tiny chips from stones hitting the hood, taking off the paint down to the metal.
I don't want to send down the whole hood just for 20 pinholes
Man!!! You are too awesome donnie!! Make it look so easy!
can you use glazing putty on a fibreglass bodykit?
Nice lesson.
Hey Donnie, What can I do about weather stripping and seals after a car has been painted? Im scared the seals will stick out like a sore thumb.
Nice work thank for the advise
Hi, it’s a good video, just wondering what kind is the putty, where can I buy it? Thanks!
He won't tell you...real jerk off!
Hello Donnie, I just discovered your video and I have not completed viewing them all just yet. I am more interested in learning how to paint motorcycles and eventually some cars if the need should ever arise. My question to you is, do all the rules apply in the same order. Any tips/videos you have would be greatly appreciated.
quilezluis Yes, same rules for motorcycle, just smaller quantities! Thanks for watching.
Hi Donnie, great Vids, Tell me , do you sand of the guide cote in the low area's before reaplying a second layer of body filler or glaze putty ? Thank you ans have your self a great day :)
How long can your sanded body filler and glaze putty job sit before applying primer?
There is to window on your body filler or glaze before priming as long as the filler is sanded.
I think that if you are going to let the panal sit for a long time, like a year, and especially in a non heated garage, you'd probably want to coat the panels in epoxy primer or a good primer sealer (not primer surfacer or high build primer, or filler, or metal or glazing putty).
Epoxy and primer sealer are not porous, but the others are.
Omg I hate body work. My hats off to you!
I learned that if you can use products from the same company. I worked in the police photo lab and used Kodac products exclusive. Lab techs would help you when you had a problem, only if you used their products.
Yeah, paint companies are the same way...they want you using their products.
Hello Donnie .. I want you to made one Video that explain step by step How to paint a car and what is the product you use .... i really like your videos you are perfect
Donnie do you have any tips on painting semi trucks. I mainly have problems reaching the very top of them
Scaffolds is what I have used for trucks and other big equipment like that.
More good info....thanks for posting!!
I noticed you applied an 80 grit to glazing putty, is that because you spread it on more thickly than one typically would? Also, I wanted to know if I should always block sand once I've gotten to the putty application stage. I noticed some people using a DA to feather out their edges. I presume it's best to block sand only since it's not as dense as bondo?
If you are a beginner I would recommend blocking. A DA can make the surface wavy if you are not careful.
Thanks, that explains alot.
Don, I have a new BRZ and although not noticing everyone I have a spot underneath the Bumper lip I want to touch up. I have the exact paint and only needs a very light coat of filler.
Where can I get this and would the be my best bet.
Thanks !
Silk Boxing You may be able to use a small amount of flexible parts putty. On bumpers, you will need to apply plastic adhesion promotor to ensure adhesion. You can see the putty at CollisionBlast.com/flex
That's beautiful i love it
Never used putty before. I will from now on though. Trying to feather the filler to the paint has always been a pain.
what's a good sealer after blocking polyester primer?
Do I have to sand over the body of my car before applying the filler? I have a big scratch that is deep on only 1/10th of it and the rest is fairly light but I might as well respray the entire area. Also what's the difference between spot and glazing putty?
For body filler yes. Glaze putty is spot putty. Meant for small spots and pinholes.
Can you tell me what model block are you using?
That is a 3 pointer....thanks for sharing the tip :)
How long do u let the putty dry before sanding!
Like 15 min
I plan on using the one part Spot Putty my car got keyed its from driver door to the passenger door makes me mad but it should be an easy fix.
Thanks for watching Gerald. I will keep that in mind for upcoming videos.
Did he just apply the glaze without applying a primer first to the exposed metal? what about the possibility of future rusting?
putty is rated for bare metal
very nice product.
worked great
We always finish out with 320's gives the primer nothing to shrink back into !!
How do you know when to stop sanding and move to primer that's where I'm struggling
When you felt everything's smooth after sanded with 400 grit
You don’t feel sand scratches anymore after 400-600
Thanks a lot great info.
Can you give a link to this product?
thanks donnie!
Another good video...Thanks, Donnie!
Ben
What is the exact product being used here?
Polyester puddy is not ment to be over 1/8" thick but it can be squeezed into stone chips providing there is no rust underneath the chips...I ask the owner what kind of job they want just make it look good for a couple of years or a restoration? If it is a look good then I go over the front end of the car with puffy filling in the chips squeeze it in tight just after I wash and wipe the car to remove wax and chemical residue once all the chips are filled then I check for dents a dimples repair those areas finish sanding those areas with 240 anything courser than 220 can end up to showing heavy scratches down the road do to sinkege of paint when it fully drys down the road... then apply a thin coat of puddy just for pinholes if needed prime that area then sand the car for paint...as well as the puddy on the hood was the car is sanded then washed with soap and water to wash out all the dust then dry, mask, and a final wash & wipe and it is ready for paint...I find no sence to sand the chips first unless it is a restoration project but for a quick clean up I had this last quite a few years for the small chips...
So the body shop will finish the sanding in 2000 to 3000 before primer and paint?
No.
Great job!!!!
Thank you very much for the great video!
What kind is it what's the name
Can this be applied over primer to fix small imperfections?
Yes but you need to sand your prime with 80 grade sandpaper