I very rarely comment on youtube videos, however I feel the need to tell you; this is actually the greatest tutorial I've ever seen, on any task, ever! Thankyou!
This is the best video I've seen for in place glazing. May I suggest using heat to remove old hard putty. An old carpenter years ago showed me how he used a sash heater to warm and soften old glazing when re-glazing a repaired window in his shop. Doesn't matter how old it was, old glazing will soften with heat. Today I've been using a heat gun. Apply gently at first moving in circles along the rail and stile and slowly move the heat gun close to about 6-8 inches and keep moving in circles until the putty and glass are warm You will find with patience that the hard putty will soften and can be scooped out as though it was applied the week before. It sure beats hammering, chipping, and the constant threat of breakage or gouging the wood.
Nice video. Nice work. Never learned about whiting, but we were house painters and just used thinner on a rag. We learned to roll the putty into a long sausage to lay in the bed before packing it in. We did this up one or two stories on ladders. Worktable? Ha!
Great tips and technic. My house was built in 1910 and I have been glazing the windows here for a number of years... Finally learned a couple of great technics that will improve my finished product!
house is 150yrs old, so I have been doing this on a few windows (as you can imagine) Didn't know about the chalk dust though........thank you. Game changer.
I was caulking the windows at first and had terrible results,then I saw this video and the results are looking great 👍 thank you for making a simple video that explains everything really well... my house and I appreciate that
Didn't like the way it was turning out, I got this caulking that was not good quality... then recently I tried caulking again I got a better brand and put masking tape as a guideline and it turned out better. I do believe you can do both and get great results now
you did the lecture like a true master. Thank you. I was looking for a lesson like this because I'm struggling with windows in a building from 1900. Thank you very, very much and best regards.
Thank you, great tips with your description, and the re-familiarising anyone who wanted to be reminded about understanding that they are thinking along the same lines in trying out the same task with the help of your fantastic video post. You make it look so easy....
Total amateur here. I did a couple just making it up as I went along. No clue how to remove the old stubborn stuff. Hopefully I can put another layer of putty on but for the rest I'll do what you showed. It was the best lesson ever. The local hardware chain advisor sold me a plastic putty knife and assumed spackle would work as putty. Going back tomorrow for the real knife.
Super video! Id like to attempt reglazing an old 12-lite wooden storm door. It was never painted so Id like to keep it that way. Would staining & polyurethaning over your glaze work or do I have to use a different kind of glaze since I dont intend to paint the door? Thanks kindly
Have you ever used a router? I have rock hard putty and I'm thinking of using some wood tacked in line with the rabbit and an inverted flush router bit. Making sure to avoid the glazing points.
Yea there was a recent house fire where someone had some of those rags in a bucket and they ignited over night. They said they had no idea it could happen.
It's crazy how good the chalk dust (calcium carbonate) works. My experience on heat guns is that they work very well to remove caulk but aren't worth the bother to remove old glazing.
I use the speed heater to soften the putty. Also I put shellac to seal the wood before I put the putty on and I paint it right away with linseed oil paint. When that’s dry (it takes a while) I use a razor blade to make the edge of the paint straight and even.
if the glazing is completely ancient and barely there anymore and flakes out using a plastic spoon can the heating machine be avoided. I prefer to not buy a specialty item unless it does something essential, and if it does, would I be able to use a hair dryer on low speed, high heat? Or will that cause the window to catch fire? If the window catches fire, does it cure the glazing, or at least make it nice and shiny?
@@ccjohncc1 you sound like knowledge able consumer. But if one is to aim heat gun or hair dryer at magic rag full of linseed oil, it would catch fire, yes? When one must blow air onto the magic rag, it is to be done on high-speed, low heat, with spark arrestor in place on cap end? Perhaps is be safer to just blowing very hard through tiny diametre hollow plastic rod used in coftee, But I heard this is what was killing Elvis when on a toilet.
Overall a great video, but I would caution against assuming the putty angle is 45 degrees. That is true only if the sides of the rabbet are 5he same length. Sometimes you will need a smaller angle, or your putty will look like a very bad repair from the inside of the window.
I have wooden basement windows from the 70’s that don’t have putty at all anymore (assuming they once did) and the glass is loose in all windows. I’ve been scraping and sanding the sash and frame outside, one window rotted clear through the bottom sash causing water to enter… so what became an outside project now is inside too so I used the table saw and cut out a matching bottom sash piece that I can now glue onto the bridle joint tenon of the sides or verticals and anyways ik I need to pack in putty to waterproof and secure the glass in the dado groove I ripped but this was helpful for the next steps so thank you! It’s still warm even hot here, I bought the only putty available in my area called 33 and it’s the true putty not the caulk type but how long till I can paint the putty? I have the really good sherwin Williams exterior oil based primer for rough wood that worked great on the first window I was working on but it states that I can’t wait longer than a week to paint over it with the exterior paint I have. What would you recommend: wait a few days and paint over with exterior paint or put this putty over the exterior paint as a final step of fixing my windows? The exterior paint I have is dtm or direct to metal which I used on my garage and front metal doors but I can use it on about anything and it’s so far working great on my first window I’ve finished, can I apply this putty over the exterior paint or does it have to be oil based primer?!
How warm does your putty need to be? Any humidity requirements? It's winter here, but we have several expected days of mild but high humidity days in the 50's to 35's.
Sir thank you for your advice my Window is same as this window but my window problem is about other side of window that can open and close… What is your advice for other side?
well i kind of manged it, but the putty we get here in the UK from both B&Q and Wickes etc are pretty poor, ie out of date really hard bits in it. I managed to get a reasonablle ball of putty despite this and did it ok( ish) the only thing was it was slightly dry, so pulling across with the knife gave it a slight texture in some parts
this has been a problem weve all seen coming for a long time in this old house im now in, and since i noticed today a window about to fall out, i guess ill try to do this, even though were now into cold weather.. no idea how id be able to do the upper story windows, since im deathly afraid of heights.. i guess if those windows survive till next year, ill try to find a handyman or some outrageously expensive pro to get up on the roof and do them.. woe is me and my old falling apart family home
Thanks as always for the great tips! I have several windows that are decorative and not removable including a hexagonal window with severe rot on the edge and the muntins/glazing bars. The bottom edge was already replaced by someone with some thick styrofoam (not sure how they managed that, but it's the only thing holding the bottom pieces of glass in place..) Do you have any posts or videos with tips or tricks for replacing that wood?
I am a roll it into a snake glazing guy. And believe the linseed oil fire hazard comment. Left a rag with linseed oil and turpentine in the front of my truck. Just barely saved it from burning to a crisp. The junk yard front seat never really looked right.
Ok do you have a video on painting the exterior of windows afterward? Having problems cleaning window edges after painting with exterior paint. Using painter's tape and pulling it off pulls off whole sections of paint from the wood. Help!
So I’m very much so an amateur in any restoration and I’m struggling to get a good line because my glazing points stick out so far that my knife keeps snagging on them. How do I fix this? It seems if I make my angle of my knife large enough to accommodate the points I will have this massively thick amount of putty.
I don't have a rabbet on my interior window to scrape the glazing knife against-I have 4" of wood that butts up against the glass. How do I get an angle out of that? I can't figure out how to deal with the putty. Help?
@@TheCraftsmanBlogwhy not prime , then paint? Which is/ was industry standard. Are you stating opinion based on experience or facts you’ve learned. 2 coats of latex will get you paid but is it time worthy? I’m asking because i try to give a quality product while learning new technology and still give a competitive price. 40 years and still learning
Thanks for an instructive video! I understand why you wouldn't want to skim just a little putty on top of old putty, but I was surprised you took out all of the old putty even though most of it looked quite solid; is that always recommended? If only a few inches are bad is there any disadvantage to just replacing that section and leaving the rest that seems fairly solid?
why do you not recommend some of the dap latex window glazing ? Why do you have to paint the putty? What is the purpose of the putty if the points are what is really holding the glass in?
I been glazing wood windows for years this is the same technique I use the only thing I can not find out how to keep the glazing from mildewing after painting and I do wait two weeks
That linseed oil just sounds like a dance with the devil. It fills rags with demons that make raga catch fire when you stop looking at it. This is class Keter.
Your other reply is wrong. You should prime it. Slow drying exterior oil is probably better but latex primer will work quickly then you can put latex on. Oil is obsolete they’ve taken all the good stuff out and not put any technology in for 25+ years
He’s a glasier not a painter. Prime once paint twice with latex. There’s never a need to prime twice it’s always better/ quicker to do 2 coats of paint than to try to make 1 coat look right.
He is saying it's going to be soft for up to 6 months but you can paint after it skins over. Needs warm temps to cure. 3 days roughly...watch it twice. Good luck!
If you dont prime the wood and apply while primer is still tacky the wood will absorb the oil in the glazing and glazing will crack as well as fail to bond properly. Found this out the hard way. Youre welcome.
That’s for it to cure and harden. You can paint once is dry like sandpaper. He said just don’t press on it before it cures or it will leave indentations
Keep in mind if you have glazed windows they are likely pre 1978. This raises the concern of lead based paint. Consider wearing a dust mask and using lead safe practices.
I have a brick home built in 1939 original windows. I’m having the trim and windows painted but My painter said I have to have the windows re-glazed. Each window has 12 window panes. He said he would give me a deep discount to re-glaze at $100. dollars per window. Is that a fair price?
@@mediahobbyist734 I’ve got windows like that and I’ve deglazed them myself over the years. It’s a big job and I think that seems like a fair price if they do a good job.
People oftwn ask me why we charge more to do a putty window than a IG in a vinyl window. They have never messed with a putty window. 😂. Its much more work even thought the glass is like $15. The labor is 165.
He meant to “completely” harden. In the time it takes to harden, he says be careful not to press your fingers or anything else into it or it will leave indentations.
I have a question I don't see answered in your blog: I have a 1927 kitchen with the original Black and White checkerboard floor. There is a lot of wax buildup from previous owners. I can remove that, but the 'white' is dull. Any tips on how to whiten those parts?
Only thing I can say is a battery operated leaf blower saves all the time in the world when dealing with any part of windows from install to reglazing.
@@aaronlavallee1461 true if not done correctly. After 35 years repairing residential windows and doors I can promise you that glass is accidentally broken using a chisel just as often if not more.
@@aaronlavallee1461 I can also promise you I've done this works in this video many hundred times more often than the guy in the video. But I also tell people if the desired outcome is accomplished it doesn't matter how. Find what way is safest and time efficient for your skill set. Also. Unlike the guy doing this. If you are real new please wear safety glasses or goggles and rubber gloves if you have a pair. I hope he adds the safety glasses and work gloves as an edit. Even I made that a habit after 10 years.
The heat gun is certain to catch the magic rag alight. How could you make such notions when simply to put it on the ground causes it to burst in flames? Next you will recommend shooting the rag with a bullets gun. The responsible thing to do is to spend the hair dryer money on a fire extinguisher and empty it into the rag on all sides with antifire foam and banish the spirits which created this volatile, soft, one piece Molotov you made. The only other alternative is to get some twine, make a hole in the rag, tie. Tie the rag to the bumper with 20 ft so it never gets close to the car while you're driving. Then you drive at 3:15 a.m. to the nearest lake. You get out, you the brick with the holes in it like a TV brick, You pick up the brick. You throw it and run so the rag doesn't burst into flames above your body when it passes over you 20 ft later. After It's flight the brick will lead it it to the bottom of the lake and suspend the rag there, inert, gently swaying, calming the spirit into suspended animation. Though once many people did this at their small lake that was really a pond. Over the years they built up and then one day the entire pond exploded when someone vaped. The whole town burned to the ground. Make sure it's a big full-size lake, make sure no one else in town Does this, make sure it is more than 20 ft deep so it does not float to the top and cause a residue to pool. Maybe best to do this to a lake that is not in your own town.
I unfortunately hired an idiot who used glaze from a pot, and he put it on with his finger, one glib at a time, and it looked like your skinned over pot, just a collection of finger pokes...
Thanks I have an old house built in 39 so I have lots of windows to do and this helps.. Thanks...I already started while watching you..
I very rarely comment on youtube videos, however I feel the need to tell you; this is actually the greatest tutorial I've ever seen, on any task, ever! Thankyou!
This is the best video I've seen for in place glazing. May I suggest using heat to remove old hard putty. An old carpenter years ago showed me how he used a sash heater to warm and soften old glazing when re-glazing a repaired window in his shop. Doesn't matter how old it was, old glazing will soften with heat. Today I've been using a heat gun. Apply gently at first moving in circles along the rail and stile and slowly move the heat gun close to about 6-8 inches and keep moving in circles until the putty and glass are warm You will find with patience that the hard putty will soften and can be scooped out as though it was applied the week before. It sure beats hammering, chipping, and the constant threat of breakage or gouging the wood.
Takes too much time to heat up. Not really a better technique
Nice video. Nice work. Never learned about whiting, but we were house painters and just used thinner on a rag. We learned to roll the putty into a long sausage to lay in the bed before packing it in. We did this up one or two stories on ladders. Worktable? Ha!
Thanks! I have been putting it off "waiting for the right weather".
Great tips and technic. My house was built in 1910 and I have been glazing the windows here for a number of years... Finally learned a couple of great technics that will improve my finished product!
😂 to "those of you old enough to remember blackboards" - I am. Thank you for this video!!
house is 150yrs old, so I have been doing this on a few windows (as you can imagine)
Didn't know about the chalk dust though........thank you. Game changer.
I was caulking the windows at first and had terrible results,then I saw this video and the results are looking great 👍 thank you for making a simple video that explains everything really well... my house and I appreciate that
Same
what do you mean by a terrible results?
Didn't like the way it was turning out, I got this caulking that was not good quality... then recently I tried caulking again I got a better brand and put masking tape as a guideline and it turned out better. I do believe you can do both and get great results now
you did the lecture like a true master. Thank you. I was looking for a lesson like this because I'm struggling with windows in a building from 1900. Thank you very, very much and best regards.
Best glazing video on the web. Thank you.
Nice how to! That's how we do it in Scandinavia too. I use traditional glazing made with only linseed oil and chalk (Dana Lim).
Thank you, great tips with your description, and the re-familiarising anyone who wanted to be reminded about understanding that they are thinking along the same lines in trying out the same task with the help of your fantastic video post. You make it look so easy....
Do you have to use an oil based paint? Do you need a primer before painting?
This is a terrific video. I appreciate it soooo much! Thanks!!!!!!!
You make it look easy-Great video-Thank you for posting.
Fantastic information on how to glaze/putty a window mate.
Will be doing a fair few around spring summer here in Australia.
Ty again for info.
Total amateur here. I did a couple just making it up as I went along. No clue how to remove the old stubborn stuff. Hopefully I can put another layer of putty on but for the rest I'll do what you showed. It was the best lesson ever. The local hardware chain advisor sold me a plastic putty knife and assumed spackle would work as putty. Going back tomorrow for the real knife.
No real reason to remove the old stuff. Just work the new putty around it. It is only meant to let the rainwater run down, and it will.
Thank you @@ipeklofijs -- that makes sense now.
You've done that once or twice... good job
Great tutorial, thanks for the help
Super video! Id like to attempt reglazing an old 12-lite wooden storm door. It was never painted so Id like to keep it that way. Would staining & polyurethaning over your glaze work or do I have to use a different kind of glaze since I dont intend to paint the door? Thanks kindly
Have you ever used a router? I have rock hard putty and I'm thinking of using some wood tacked in line with the rabbit and an inverted flush router bit. Making sure to avoid the glazing points.
Yea there was a recent house fire where someone had some of those rags in a bucket and they ignited over night. They said they had no idea it could happen.
It's crazy how good the chalk dust (calcium carbonate) works. My experience on heat guns is that they work very well to remove caulk but aren't worth the bother to remove old glazing.
Great video. Thanks. Do I understand this correctly: it will take months to cure and THEN I can paint?
No he said when it forms a skin and feels like sand paper then you can paint it.
@@porchsinging4874 if you are using linseed oil caulk and linseed oil paint you can paint over the caulk immediately.
I use the speed heater to soften the putty. Also I put shellac to seal the wood before I put the putty on and I paint it right away with linseed oil paint. When that’s dry (it takes a while) I use a razor blade to make the edge of the paint straight and even.
We both know this guy is an amateur at best. Like you I never did this kind of work without a heat gun. It's a no-brainer.
if the glazing is completely ancient and barely there anymore and flakes out using a plastic spoon can the heating machine be avoided. I prefer to not buy a specialty item unless it does something essential, and if it does, would I be able to use a hair dryer on low speed, high heat? Or will that cause the window to catch fire? If the window catches fire, does it cure the glazing, or at least make it nice and shiny?
@@ccjohncc1 you sound like knowledge able consumer. But if one is to aim heat gun or hair dryer at magic rag full of linseed oil, it would catch fire, yes? When one must blow air onto the magic rag, it is to be done on high-speed, low heat, with spark arrestor in place on cap end?
Perhaps is be safer to just blowing very hard through tiny diametre hollow plastic rod used in coftee, But I heard this is what was killing Elvis when on a toilet.
why do you use shellac instead of linseed oil? Where do you buy linseed oil paint?
Awesome video! Thank you for sharing.
Just wish you'd mentioned weather and rain expectations. @the craftsman blog, any follow up tips?
me too
This is helpful. Thank you. I’ve struggled with this.
Superb mate, really good stuff. Thank you.
Overall a great video, but I would caution against assuming the putty angle is 45 degrees. That is true only if the sides of the rabbet are 5he same length. Sometimes you will need a smaller angle, or your putty will look like a very bad repair from the inside of the window.
How would you apply the putty with a rabbet of different lengths?
Adjust the angle so the hypotenuse is more acute than 45 degrees. One of the legs will be shorter; the other longer.@@cactusladysouth1000
I have wooden basement windows from the 70’s that don’t have putty at all anymore (assuming they once did) and the glass is loose in all windows. I’ve been scraping and sanding the sash and frame outside, one window rotted clear through the bottom sash causing water to enter… so what became an outside project now is inside too so I used the table saw and cut out a matching bottom sash piece that I can now glue onto the bridle joint tenon of the sides or verticals and anyways ik I need to pack in putty to waterproof and secure the glass in the dado groove I ripped but this was helpful for the next steps so thank you! It’s still warm even hot here, I bought the only putty available in my area called 33 and it’s the true putty not the caulk type but how long till I can paint the putty? I have the really good sherwin Williams exterior oil based primer for rough wood that worked great on the first window I was working on but it states that I can’t wait longer than a week to paint over it with the exterior paint I have. What would you recommend: wait a few days and paint over with exterior paint or put this putty over the exterior paint as a final step of fixing my windows? The exterior paint I have is dtm or direct to metal which I used on my garage and front metal doors but I can use it on about anything and it’s so far working great on my first window I’ve finished, can I apply this putty over the exterior paint or does it have to be oil based primer?!
heat gun helped a lot to get the old putty out.
how did that help?
@@cactusladysouth1000 it comes off easier if you heat it up. just don't start a fire though.
@@cactusladysouth1000 it softens the putty. Be careful not to burn the wood, though.
How warm does your putty need to be? Any humidity requirements?
It's winter here, but we have several expected days of mild but high humidity days in the 50's to 35's.
Wait did you say the putty stays soft 6mos to a year? Does that mean you have to wait that long to paint it?
No, it'll form a skin. Takes from 3 to 14 days depending on your climate.
When the skin has formed you can paint with oil based paint
@@arinpounov369 you can paint it right away with linseed oil paint.
Sir thank you for your advice my Window is same as this window but my window problem is about other side of window that can open and close…
What is your advice for other side?
Very good informative video.
What happens if it rains the day after? Is that going to mess it up?
well i kind of manged it, but the putty we get here in the UK from both B&Q and Wickes etc are pretty poor, ie out of date really hard bits in it.
I managed to get a reasonablle ball of putty despite this and did it ok( ish)
the only thing was it was slightly dry, so pulling across with the knife gave it a slight texture in some parts
hi, you sell glazing points on your site. how do you install them and how do you determine which size to buy since you offer 3 sizes.
Very carefully and you take what you can get lol. Flat putty knife and push.
NOT down. Same plane as the glass .
The edge is the weak point
I believe you can use Easy Sand 20 instead of whiting to remove the oil.
What about water-based primer on the wood vs oil-based prior to using Austin’s putty?
this has been a problem weve all seen coming for a long time in this old house im now in, and since i noticed today a window about to fall out, i guess ill try to do this, even though were now into cold weather.. no idea how id be able to do the upper story windows, since im deathly afraid of heights.. i guess if those windows survive till next year, ill try to find a handyman or some outrageously expensive pro to get up on the roof and do them.. woe is me and my old falling apart family home
Thanks as always for the great tips! I have several windows that are decorative and not removable including a hexagonal window with severe rot on the edge and the muntins/glazing bars. The bottom edge was already replaced by someone with some thick styrofoam (not sure how they managed that, but it's the only thing holding the bottom pieces of glass in place..) Do you have any posts or videos with tips or tricks for replacing that wood?
Thanks, exactly what I needed to know! 👍🏻💥👏🏻🙏🏻
I've been searching for some insulation options for a fixed/picture window besides a plastic sheet. Would this do the trick? thanks!
I am a roll it into a snake glazing guy. And believe the linseed oil fire hazard comment. Left a rag with linseed oil and turpentine in the front of my truck. Just barely saved it from burning to a crisp. The junk yard front seat never really looked right.
Hey guys, if I'm using the wooden bedding, do I need to silicone the rabbit?
What was the music/sountrack used/added in your video i want the link please and thank you.
Ok do you have a video on painting the exterior of windows afterward? Having problems cleaning window edges after painting with exterior paint. Using painter's tape and pulling it off pulls off whole sections of paint from the wood. Help!
@@_papad8434 if you use a straight edge and a razor blade you can get the paint off easily and neatly.
So I’m very much so an amateur in any restoration and I’m struggling to get a good line because my glazing points stick out so far that my knife keeps snagging on them. How do I fix this? It seems if I make my angle of my knife large enough to accommodate the points I will have this massively thick amount of putty.
Thank you! This was a fantastic video and I feel more confident in the task set before me (so many windows....).
How does the whiting not effect the glaze before it’s cured?
I don't have a rabbet on my interior window to scrape the glazing knife against-I have 4" of wood that butts up against the glass. How do I get an angle out of that? I can't figure out how to deal with the putty. Help?
What's the best primer for window glaze? I've tried two types of primer without success.
Good stuff. Didn't not know about the whiting. One question: Can you use latex or acrylic paint over the putty? Or does it require oil based paint.
Acrylic is just fine.
@@TheCraftsmanBlogwhy not prime , then paint? Which is/ was industry standard. Are you stating opinion based on experience or facts you’ve learned.
2 coats of latex will get you paid but is it time worthy? I’m asking because i try to give a quality product while learning new technology and still give a competitive price. 40 years and still learning
@@TheCraftsmanBlogand what’s your thoughts on the linseed oil trick?
Thanks for an instructive video! I understand why you wouldn't want to skim just a little putty on top of old putty, but I was surprised you took out all of the old putty even though most of it looked quite solid; is that always recommended? If only a few inches are bad is there any disadvantage to just replacing that section and leaving the rest that seems fairly solid?
You can leave the solid putty in place. And just replace the loose putty. But like the video says don’t skin too thin.
You should always wear a dust mask when using whiting. It’s horrible for the lungs.
thank you for the video! wondering about external weather. if it is cold or wet outside will this affect the putty and curing?
why do you not recommend some of the dap latex window glazing ? Why do you have to paint the putty? What is the purpose of the putty if the points are what is really holding the glass in?
@@cactusladysouth1000 the putty seals the glass and keeps out water and the cold. Dap doesn’t last as long as linseed oil putty.
Super helpful thanks
I been glazing wood windows for years this is the same technique I use the only thing I can not find out how to keep the glazing from mildewing after painting and I do wait two weeks
@@thomasearl9732 paint it right away with linseed oil paint.
Why can’t you use water based exterior primer ?
If you have metal around the glass instead of wood, would you still need to prime it or use linseed oil?
That linseed oil just sounds like a dance with the devil. It fills rags with demons that make raga catch fire when you stop looking at it. This is class Keter.
Metal will not absorb the oil from the putty, so no need to insulate or saturate it like wood.
Can you do this on the inside of the window?
I'm in Ontario Canada. Is it alright to do this in the fall with potential frost around the corner?
Check out the bucket instructions. I think you need a few days of dry non freezing temps for it to dry properly. Something like that.
So I’m assuming that one would have to use an oil-based paint on top of the glazing, and not water-based latex? Thanks anyone 👍🏻😄
If you are using an oil-based glaze and it’s cured then yes. Not sure how it will do on glazing but you could try a latex additive like Oil Bond.
Your other reply is wrong. You should prime it. Slow drying exterior oil is probably better but latex primer will work quickly then you can put latex on.
Oil is obsolete they’ve taken all the good stuff out and not put any technology in for 25+ years
On the site description it says NOT to prime. Paint with two coats of paint. He did say that you can use an Acrylic paint
He’s a glasier not a painter. Prime once paint twice with latex. There’s never a need to prime twice it’s always better/ quicker to do 2 coats of paint than to try to make 1 coat look right.
THANKS FOR SHORING👍👍👍
Thank you very much.
He is saying it's going to be soft for up to 6 months but you can paint after it skins over. Needs warm temps to cure. 3 days roughly...watch it twice. Good luck!
If you dont prime the wood and apply while primer is still tacky the wood will absorb the oil in the glazing and glazing will crack as well as fail to bond properly. Found this out the hard way. Youre welcome.
Good job
Use a razor blade knife if caulking is tough leave it cause it will break the glass, use a good quality caulk matching color down the road you go
good to know
I have to wait 6 mo to a years to paint?
That’s for it to cure and harden. You can paint once is dry like sandpaper. He said just don’t press on it before it cures or it will leave indentations
Thank you.
2 years 2 finish?
What if you don’t paint it? 😬
What should we do if it rains on the glazing putty prior to curing?
No problem since it’s oil based. Rain won’t cause any issues.
What glazing putty?????
Oops I just used silicone. Wish this video was recommended earlier
Utensils you use to smooth what are they called?
A glazing knife
Keep in mind if you have glazed windows they are likely pre 1978. This raises the concern of lead based paint. Consider wearing a dust mask and using lead safe practices.
lead based paint isn't harmful. the epa lied about all that shit.
Do you need to wait six months to paint it?
No. The putty cures quite fast when it’s chaulked. Depends on the weather of course, but you can paint max a couple of days after.
I have a brick home built in 1939 original windows. I’m having the trim and windows painted but My painter said I have to have the windows re-glazed. Each window has 12 window panes. He said he would give me a deep discount to re-glaze at $100. dollars per window. Is that a fair price?
@@mediahobbyist734 I’ve got windows like that and I’ve deglazed them myself over the years. It’s a big job and I think that seems like a fair price if they do a good job.
Any cheap window putty out there?
Mix chalk powder with flaxseed oil, like batter.
Didn't have chalk dust, so i used cornflour, which worked.
Thanks
Why not scrap the paint off before you glazed it???
So nothing has to be done on the inside?
People oftwn ask me why we charge more to do a putty window than a IG in a vinyl window. They have never messed with a putty window. 😂. Its much more work even thought the glass is like $15. The labor is 165.
What do you mean bro by that it's gonna take about 6 months to a year to harden??
He meant to “completely” harden. In the time it takes to harden, he says be careful not to press your fingers or anything else into it or it will leave indentations.
I have a question I don't see answered in your blog: I have a 1927 kitchen with the original Black and White checkerboard floor. There is a lot of wax buildup from previous owners. I can remove that, but the 'white' is dull. Any tips on how to whiten those parts?
I googled "how to whiten old linoleum".
@@avicennitegh1377 So did I. None of the solutions I tried worked. I decided to paint the squares.
Only thing I can say is a battery operated leaf blower saves all the time in the world when dealing with any part of windows from install to reglazing.
Worth every penny.
How do you use the leaf blower in the process? Thank you @brandonpaugh922.
I have been a glazier for 50 years and never seen such pish
What do you recommend?
🙏🏼
Oh boy, my cousin did this and he broke the window 😮
A hot air gun will soften the putty tremendously enabling safer and much easier and faster removal.
Yes but be careful with the heat gun as the heat will crack the glass if heated in one spot too long.
@@aaronlavallee1461 true if not done correctly. After 35 years repairing residential windows and doors I can promise you that glass is accidentally broken using a chisel just as often if not more.
@@aaronlavallee1461 I can also promise you I've done this works in this video many hundred times more often than the guy in the video. But I also tell people if the desired outcome is accomplished it doesn't matter how. Find what way is safest and time efficient for your skill set. Also. Unlike the guy doing this. If you are real new please wear safety glasses or goggles and rubber gloves if you have a pair. I hope he adds the safety glasses and work gloves as an edit. Even I made that a habit after 10 years.
The heat gun is certain to catch the magic rag alight. How could you make such notions when simply to put it on the ground causes it to burst in flames? Next you will recommend shooting the rag with a bullets gun. The responsible thing to do is to spend the hair dryer money on a fire extinguisher and empty it into the rag on all sides with antifire foam and banish the spirits which created this volatile, soft, one piece Molotov you made. The only other alternative is to get some twine, make a hole in the rag, tie. Tie the rag to the bumper with 20 ft so it never gets close to the car while you're driving. Then you drive at 3:15 a.m. to the nearest lake. You get out, you the brick with the holes in it like a TV brick, You pick up the brick. You throw it and run so the rag doesn't burst into flames above your body when it passes over you 20 ft later. After It's flight the brick will lead it it to the bottom of the lake and suspend the rag there, inert, gently swaying, calming the spirit into suspended animation. Though once many people did this at their small lake that was really a pond. Over the years they built up and then one day the entire pond exploded when someone vaped. The whole town burned to the ground.
Make sure it's a big full-size lake, make sure no one else in town Does this, make sure it is more than 20 ft deep so it does not float to the top and cause a residue to pool. Maybe best to do this to a lake that is not in your own town.
@@ccjohncc1Why would you not just use a latex based glazing compound to avoid needing to prime the wood?
Will you have another class in 2025?
use a heat gun to soften it up.
Why is bro glazing 💀
I unfortunately hired an idiot who used glaze from a pot, and he put it on with his finger, one glib at a time, and it looked like your skinned over pot, just a collection of finger pokes...
throw the rage in some turps and wash them out rag's aren't cheap