How To: Glaze a Window In Place
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.ค. 2024
- In this video I'll show you how you can reglaze an old window without taking it out of the jamb. Sure it’s not comfortable as working on a stead work table, but you don’t have to worry about boarding up or any of the other complexities of removing a window sash when you have the skills to glaze a window “in-situ”.
-------TOOLS & SUPPLIES-------
Austin’s Glazier’s Putty - thecraftsmanstore.com/product...
Austin Whiting - thecraftsmanstore.com/product...
Boiled Linseed Oil - amzn.to/3C9J9E7
Glazier’s Knife - amzn.to/3f9eJZE
5-in-1 Tool - amzn.to/3LHv8Re
-----------LINKS-----------
Instagram - / thecraftsmanblog
Patreon - / thecraftsmanblog
Facebook - / craftsmanblog
Website - thecraftsmanblog.com
Store - thecraftsmanstore.com - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Thanks I have an old house built in 39 so I have lots of windows to do and this helps.. Thanks...I already started while watching you..
Great tips and technic. My house was built in 1910 and I have been glazing the windows here for a number of years... Finally learned a couple of great technics that will improve my finished product!
Best glazing video on the web. Thank you.
Thanks! I have been putting it off "waiting for the right weather".
Fantastic information on how to glaze/putty a window mate.
Will be doing a fair few around spring summer here in Australia.
Ty again for info.
Nice video. Nice work. Never learned about whiting, but we were house painters and just used thinner on a rag. We learned to roll the putty into a long sausage to lay in the bed before packing it in. We did this up one or two stories on ladders. Worktable? Ha!
I was caulking the windows at first and had terrible results,then I saw this video and the results are looking great 👍 thank you for making a simple video that explains everything really well... my house and I appreciate that
Same
You make it look easy-Great video-Thank you for posting.
This is helpful. Thank you. I’ve struggled with this.
This is a terrific video. I appreciate it soooo much! Thanks!!!!!!!
Superb mate, really good stuff. Thank you.
Awesome video! Thank you for sharing.
heat gun helped a lot to get the old putty out.
Overall a great video, but I would caution against assuming the putty angle is 45 degrees. That is true only if the sides of the rabbet are 5he same length. Sometimes you will need a smaller angle, or your putty will look like a very bad repair from the inside of the window.
Thanks, exactly what I needed to know! 👍🏻💥👏🏻🙏🏻
Thanks as always for the great tips! I have several windows that are decorative and not removable including a hexagonal window with severe rot on the edge and the muntins/glazing bars. The bottom edge was already replaced by someone with some thick styrofoam (not sure how they managed that, but it's the only thing holding the bottom pieces of glass in place..) Do you have any posts or videos with tips or tricks for replacing that wood?
I've been searching for some insulation options for a fixed/picture window besides a plastic sheet. Would this do the trick? thanks!
Thank you very much.
Do you have to use an oil based paint? Do you need a primer before painting?
THANKS FOR SHORING👍👍👍
Thank you! This was a fantastic video and I feel more confident in the task set before me (so many windows....).
Good job
Great video. Thanks. Do I understand this correctly: it will take months to cure and THEN I can paint?
French door looks nice, and I think a white classical trim profile would match aesthetic and beauty better
thank you for the video! wondering about external weather. if it is cold or wet outside will this affect the putty and curing?
Thank you.
How does the whiting not effect the glaze before it’s cured?
I use the speed heater to soften the putty. Also I put shellac to seal the wood before I put the putty on and I paint it right away with linseed oil paint. When that’s dry (it takes a while) I use a razor blade to make the edge of the paint straight and even.
We both know this guy is an amateur at best. Like you I never did this kind of work without a heat gun. It's a no-brainer.
if the glazing is completely ancient and barely there anymore and flakes out using a plastic spoon can the heating machine be avoided. I prefer to not buy a specialty item unless it does something essential, and if it does, would I be able to use a hair dryer on low speed, high heat? Or will that cause the window to catch fire? If the window catches fire, does it cure the glazing, or at least make it nice and shiny?
@@ccjohncc1 you sound like knowledge able consumer. But if one is to aim heat gun or hair dryer at magic rag full of linseed oil, it would catch fire, yes? When one must blow air onto the magic rag, it is to be done on high-speed, low heat, with spark arrestor in place on cap end?
Perhaps is be safer to just blowing very hard through tiny diametre hollow plastic rod used in coftee, But I heard this is what was killing Elvis when on a toilet.
I am a roll it into a snake glazing guy. And believe the linseed oil fire hazard comment. Left a rag with linseed oil and turpentine in the front of my truck. Just barely saved it from burning to a crisp. The junk yard front seat never really looked right.
What happens if it rains the day after? Is that going to mess it up?
Yea there was a recent house fire where someone had some of those rags in a bucket and they ignited over night. They said they had no idea it could happen.
I been glazing wood windows for years this is the same technique I use the only thing I can not find out how to keep the glazing from mildewing after painting and I do wait two weeks
Total amateur here. I did a couple just making it up as I went along. No clue how to remove the old stubborn stuff. Hopefully I can put another layer of putty on but for the rest I'll do what you showed. It was the best lesson ever. The local hardware chain advisor sold me a plastic putty knife and assumed spackle would work as putty. Going back tomorrow for the real knife.
No real reason to remove the old stuff. Just work the new putty around it. It is only meant to let the rainwater run down, and it will.
Thank you @@ipeklofijs -- that makes sense now.
It's crazy how good the chalk dust (calcium carbonate) works. My experience on heat guns is that they work very well to remove caulk but aren't worth the bother to remove old glazing.
Wait did you say the putty stays soft 6mos to a year? Does that mean you have to wait that long to paint it?
No, it'll form a skin. Takes from 3 to 14 days depending on your climate.
When the skin has formed you can paint with oil based paint
Thanks for an instructive video! I understand why you wouldn't want to skim just a little putty on top of old putty, but I was surprised you took out all of the old putty even though most of it looked quite solid; is that always recommended? If only a few inches are bad is there any disadvantage to just replacing that section and leaving the rest that seems fairly solid?
You can leave the solid putty in place. And just replace the loose putty. But like the video says don’t skin too thin.
You should always wear a dust mask when using whiting. It’s horrible for the lungs.
Use a razor blade knife if caulking is tough leave it cause it will break the glass, use a good quality caulk matching color down the road you go
I don't have a rabbet on my interior window to scrape the glazing knife against-I have 4" of wood that butts up against the glass. How do I get an angle out of that? I can't figure out how to deal with the putty. Help?
hi, you sell glazing points on your site. how do you install them and how do you determine which size to buy since you offer 3 sizes.
Very carefully and you take what you can get lol. Flat putty knife and push.
NOT down. Same plane as the glass .
The edge is the weak point
I'm in Ontario Canada. Is it alright to do this in the fall with potential frost around the corner?
Check out the bucket instructions. I think you need a few days of dry non freezing temps for it to dry properly. Something like that.
If you have metal around the glass instead of wood, would you still need to prime it or use linseed oil?
That linseed oil just sounds like a dance with the devil. It fills rags with demons that make raga catch fire when you stop looking at it. This is class Keter.
Metal will not absorb the oil from the putty, so no need to insulate or saturate it like wood.
🙏🏼
What should we do if it rains on the glazing putty prior to curing?
No problem since it’s oil based. Rain won’t cause any issues.
Keep in mind if you have glazed windows they are likely pre 1978. This raises the concern of lead based paint. Consider wearing a dust mask and using lead safe practices.
Good stuff. Didn't not know about the whiting. One question: Can you use latex or acrylic paint over the putty? Or does it require oil based paint.
Acrylic is just fine.
@@TheCraftsmanBlogwhy not prime , then paint? Which is/ was industry standard. Are you stating opinion based on experience or facts you’ve learned.
2 coats of latex will get you paid but is it time worthy? I’m asking because i try to give a quality product while learning new technology and still give a competitive price. 40 years and still learning
@@TheCraftsmanBlogand what’s your thoughts on the linseed oil trick?
I have a brick home built in 1939 original windows. I’m having the trim and windows painted but My painter said I have to have the windows re-glazed. Each window has 12 window panes. He said he would give me a deep discount to re-glaze at $100. dollars per window. Is that a fair price?
Utensils you use to smooth what are they called?
A glazing knife
I have to wait 6 mo to a years to paint?
That’s for it to cure and harden. You can paint once is dry like sandpaper. He said just don’t press on it before it cures or it will leave indentations
Do you need to wait six months to paint it?
No. The putty cures quite fast when it’s chaulked. Depends on the weather of course, but you can paint max a couple of days after.
I have a question I don't see answered in your blog: I have a 1927 kitchen with the original Black and White checkerboard floor. There is a lot of wax buildup from previous owners. I can remove that, but the 'white' is dull. Any tips on how to whiten those parts?
I googled "how to whiten old linoleum".
@@avicennitegh1377 So did I. None of the solutions I tried worked. I decided to paint the squares.
Didn't have chalk dust, so i used cornflour, which worked.
So I’m assuming that one would have to use an oil-based paint on top of the glazing, and not water-based latex? Thanks anyone 👍🏻😄
If you are using an oil-based glaze and it’s cured then yes. Not sure how it will do on glazing but you could try a latex additive like Oil Bond.
Your other reply is wrong. You should prime it. Slow drying exterior oil is probably better but latex primer will work quickly then you can put latex on.
Oil is obsolete they’ve taken all the good stuff out and not put any technology in for 25+ years
On the site description it says NOT to prime. Paint with two coats of paint. He did say that you can use an Acrylic paint
He’s a glasier not a painter. Prime once paint twice with latex. There’s never a need to prime twice it’s always better/ quicker to do 2 coats of paint than to try to make 1 coat look right.
So nothing has to be done on the inside?
Any cheap window putty out there?
Mix chalk powder with flaxseed oil, like batter.
Only thing I can say is a battery operated leaf blower saves all the time in the world when dealing with any part of windows from install to reglazing.
Worth every penny.
How do you use the leaf blower in the process? Thank you @brandonpaugh922.
A hot air gun will soften the putty tremendously enabling safer and much easier and faster removal.
Yes but be careful with the heat gun as the heat will crack the glass if heated in one spot too long.
@@aaronlavallee1461 true if not done correctly. After 35 years repairing residential windows and doors I can promise you that glass is accidentally broken using a chisel just as often if not more.
@@aaronlavallee1461 I can also promise you I've done this works in this video many hundred times more often than the guy in the video. But I also tell people if the desired outcome is accomplished it doesn't matter how. Find what way is safest and time efficient for your skill set. Also. Unlike the guy doing this. If you are real new please wear safety glasses or goggles and rubber gloves if you have a pair. I hope he adds the safety glasses and work gloves as an edit. Even I made that a habit after 10 years.
The heat gun is certain to catch the magic rag alight. How could you make such notions when simply to put it on the ground causes it to burst in flames? Next you will recommend shooting the rag with a bullets gun. The responsible thing to do is to spend the hair dryer money on a fire extinguisher and empty it into the rag on all sides with antifire foam and banish the spirits which created this volatile, soft, one piece Molotov you made. The only other alternative is to get some twine, make a hole in the rag, tie. Tie the rag to the bumper with 20 ft so it never gets close to the car while you're driving. Then you drive at 3:15 a.m. to the nearest lake. You get out, you the brick with the holes in it like a TV brick, You pick up the brick. You throw it and run so the rag doesn't burst into flames above your body when it passes over you 20 ft later. After It's flight the brick will lead it it to the bottom of the lake and suspend the rag there, inert, gently swaying, calming the spirit into suspended animation. Though once many people did this at their small lake that was really a pond. Over the years they built up and then one day the entire pond exploded when someone vaped. The whole town burned to the ground.
Make sure it's a big full-size lake, make sure no one else in town Does this, make sure it is more than 20 ft deep so it does not float to the top and cause a residue to pool. Maybe best to do this to a lake that is not in your own town.
@@ccjohncc1Why would you not just use a latex based glazing compound to avoid needing to prime the wood?
What do you mean bro by that it's gonna take about 6 months to a year to harden??
He meant to “completely” harden. In the time it takes to harden, he says be careful not to press your fingers or anything else into it or it will leave indentations.
Oh boy, my cousin did this and he broke the window 😮
use a heat gun to soften it up.
throw the rage in some turps and wash them out rag's aren't cheap
Made it look too easy
I thought this parti, is old fashion in glazing in this generation. You mean rubber seal can't do this well.
Why is bro glazing 💀
Chalk dust? You cannot be serious!
good vid, lose the music.
Please stop saying you’re glazing a window. You are puttying a window. The glass is the glazing.
That’s why the product is called glazing putty.
You must be too young to know he's right to say glazing.
Do they call the professional trade a puttyier or a glazier?
It’s called glazing.