Amazing video. I worked under a professional for a short time years ago and your video reminded me of the things I forgot. Very comprehensive and well made. Thanks for taking the time. Much appreciated.
I watch my son do this. Now I understand more from your video. I want to help restore a Bertone X 1/9 . Tomorrow, I sand the hood he primed Saturday...carefully. Thank you for explaining so much. We did a VW Bug last month. Beautiful. Learning auto body work is so fun, I barely cook anymore. We have nice cars but we are hungry.
DIY How To Paint A Car School Good idea! We finished the Bertone and it is nice! You teach everything exactly like Ben does, and he is a perfectionist. Now I know he is not obsessing. priming, sanding,( priming), sanding. basecoat, clear, sanding, sanding,...Perfect! Have a nice summer.
I wish I had found this video a year ago! I've got a 1975 Trans AM that I stripped down to bare metal and have epoxy primed. Looking forward to filler priming and blocking now that I've seen this. Thanks!
This may help some people sanding curves, I use old radiator hoses and heater hoses on curves, I have fender flares on my Camaro and it worked great getting them just right, I just wrap the sand paper around the hose and go at it, works great.
If you're blocking and you get down to bare metal you can't block that area anymore. Because your sandpaper won't sand the metal but will sand everything around it. So the metal will end up being high if you keep blocking there. Just as I was making this comment I came to the point in the video where he basically said the same thing. Oh well. Thanks for the video it was easy to follow and informative.
Leaving it masked off is fine except for when actually using "some" of the extra extra high build Polyester, Epoxy Primers. As the build that it creates will/can leave such a hard/built up edge/line depending on the "masked situation." Plus, applying different stages of primer over the same tape/paper "can" make it a miserable bytch to pull off/unmask. Also? Leaving the used paper can cause LOTTA extra dust/debris that just ends up in your primer being shot, and on some primers? Cause it to "fuzz up" more and ya spend MORE time sanding the stuff vs just using more tape/paper/painters plastic to remask....Just my 2 centavos. Keep a GRINDIN! 👍
I wouldn't risk using an air-powered tool like a DA sander to block with. It's too easy to mess something up, like digging into the primer, and just overall ruining whatever you primed. I tried to "block" using a DA sander once, and yeah, I screwed my hood up!!!! So I had to basically do everything all over again. DO ALL BLOCKING BY HAND! Just my very honest opinion.
I love a bit of dust, I use electric ⚡️ DA/flatbed sanders, I don’t have extraction system unfortunately, all the spiders 🕷 on my workshop are white. 😂
There are wet sanding and dry sanding methods. Either can be used and both are effective. And you are correct, you want to final sand before painting with 400 to 600 grit sandpaper before painting. Thanks for watching!
Donnie Smith. Hello! I have a question if I may. I am wet sanding 2K primer with 400 and I hit metal on some edges. My question is Do I have to put primer again on that expoused metal and if I do what primer? 2K or epoxy primer? Remember im wet sanding for paint, thanks.👍🇺🇸
I know what you are talking about. There are really no universal procedures for these newer cars. It is getting to where each specific make and model has their own repair procedures. You really need to get the manufacture recommended procedures for these new steels. The industry is definitely changing!
Saving $$$ ALWAYS costs more in the long run, 3 years later I'm re doing my bloody hood cause I was being cheap and or lazy and dumb Thanks for the videos mate great refresher courses
If you're sanding and you get a high spot that's bare metal, could that mean that's a crown from a dent? Should you knock it down with a hammer before proceeding?
Awesome...I am glad you receive the sander and like the sander. Be sure to post some pics and videos of your project on my Collision Blast Facebook page! I hope you get good use out of the sander.
I also think hand blocking is much better, because it gives you more precise control; a DA, well it can pretty easily get away from you if your not guiding it and well there you go...
I'm block sanding my primer with 320 grit sand paper. Within 5 seconds I start getting clumps on my sandpaper. If I don't stop to clean the clumps off, the clumps start putting scratches in my primer. What did i do wrong? Did I spray the primer to thick?
Cross sanding ( blocking ) isn't the best way. The best way is to block straight from 1 end to the other end all the way. You need to walk with a long board to make it %100 straight, the contour of vehicals only show waves from the length, it's impossible to see waves from up and down.
why my surfacer is coming off when i rub it 4-5 times? also i see small pin holes appear when i start rubbing with water..its like bubble stuck inside..so i have to rub that area whole to remove that bubble and re apply surfacer..and i can see scratches and some small dents even after applying surfacer..shouldn't it fill all small holes? or i have to use body filler for even small holes before apply surfacer?
Thank you so much for the tips. I'm restoring a 1959 Glastron Fiberglass boat and just primed the hull and wasn't exactly sure what to do next to prep for the finish coat. This video was exactly what I need to see.
I am going to start a boat project soon. I would use guide coat and final sand the boat with 400 grit sandpaper. Then you should be ready to paint. You can finish it like a car. You can also use a gel coat, which is a little thicker, but does not have the gloss level as automotive base and clear. This lesson will help you out with the prep process. www.collisionblast.com/paint-prep/ Thanks for watching.
I dont like my car enough to do this much work. I just sprayed dark sealer and skipped primer all together then painted. Came out fine it's just gonna get messed up in parking lots with shopping carts.
I had a hard time listing to the music I thought this was a blocking lesson but it was a music video... And if I need a block a good concrete block will work won't it ...
I"m a retired Auto Body technician, yes we are Auto Body Technician's not Body Men. Any way this man sure knows his trade. Thanks for the great video....Canada.
Auto body technicians never retire. Idk who youre trying to pull the wool over. I bet you are doing your own projects at a minimum, that's actually what I am doing currently finishing up a 1965 impala (factory full restore every bolt removed and done correct.
Donnie Smith. Hello! What should I do if I did the body work and of course I thought my body work was really good on a hood but after using Eastwood contour primer I used 320 and some metal showed up. Now im confused. Should I spray some epoxy primer in that small area then sanded down and spray 2K primer? Thanks and love the videos, thanks for the time and effort you put into them👍.
MrElPoderozo1 definitely use the 2kp- depending on the color of the car you may want to hide the work by spraying a silver paint in that area. Its a 90's trick me and some friends came up with for ppg/matrix systems. Good luck
Liutenant General. Thank you for answering me. So it doesn't matter if it is showing some expoused metal as I was feathering down the Eastwood Contour primer? I can spray the Eastwood 2K primer over the metal and it should be ok? Thanks again for your time 👍
I needed a video to refresh my body work, this was the best video, I have a 7 trans am primed and guide coated going to get it going here soon before boot camp :) thank you sir.
Is it possible to block sand a motorcycle tank? I want to paint my 70 triumph gas tank and concerned about block sanding on a rounded tank. Should I use a flexible block?
Best Video series on TH-cam. I am by no mean the best bodyman but I can hold my own. I was passing on knowledge to my friends and they did not believe me about blocking and guide coats until they saw your videos. Bunch of rookies.. Keep up the good job. Pass on the knowledge...
i want to paint matte black,,what are the steps,and what kind of paint should i use? i subscribe at collision blast,but no email sent to me for verification,,
Here is a video playlist for matte black How To Prep Aftermarket Parts Before Spraying Paint And Test If Strippig To Metal Is Needed If you did not receive a verification email from Collision Blast, it probably went to your spam or trash. Be sure to check those places for the email.
Very informative and easy to follow! I'm starting on my '67 Mustang Fastback soon and am doing the rounds on TH-cam for knowledge. I have a page of notes from your video! I have a question, if you wouldn't mind, when I go to do the roof of the mustang, how do you recommend I attack it? Prime the roof, apply guide coat, then work at it in say quarters, or do complete drivers side then passenger side? I'm worried that doing it in smaller sections won't flow smoothly into the next section and end up with an uneven end job. Thanks :)
Thank. Ok one more questions I have a 73 Buick Electra and I want to strip it down to the metal, would walnut shell be a safe way. Trying to cut the hard labor down..
C holifield; I use it after I,ve primed,then 400 grit then 600 ,if I,m not happy with the result,i prime again,then guide coat then 400 then 600 I,ve found I don,t need to guide coat between grits,i think a lot depends on how well you break down the filler and if you lay it down evenly as you can from the start and use the least amount possible.
So you can't show us as you're speaking how you do it? I'm trying to figure out if I need an epoxy under the primer & if you shoot primer over the 800 grit sanded spots. Can't seem to feather the paint enough not to see a line !
I see why it's so expensive to get a good paint job. I'm a good mechanic but body work and paint is an art in itself. Working on a 1990 ZR-1 and it has so many curves on it. It's white and I'm keeping it white, all the factory paint has like little bumps/bubbles and some spyder cracks. I think I have bit off more than I can chew. It takes a lot of patience and a certain feel. Thanks for your videos, they really help a novice like me a lot. 👍👍
10:50........"Now let's talk about blocking technique"......the 30 degree cross for great shine ......This is new and amazing to me thank you and happy Christmas! ....
Now 2022, it’s been 11 years since this video aired. The worst blocking issue it almost two fold on the same vehicle. This is my 67 C10 truck. #1 area hard to block is the center of the front hood. It has a peak, reverse crown and convex areas that change from from to rear. I used a contour gauge to form a block from a hood in the package my son bought. Once drawn, 32 grit on die grinder created the front, but it get smaller at the rear. Make a second one and keep going. I was exhausted until I got into the reverse crown that changes to larger toward the rear as you progress down the side, front to rear. Having built a block that fits helps duplicate both sides so close you could not tell. As you mentioned, but black epoxy, covered the a gray high build, let’s you know once you pass thru primer into a sealer into a different color. Thanks.
Thanks. I was actually interested if there was other types of blocks, or what they were, since ive grown up, weve used 2x4's, and i see those square rubber ones with holes in them, and the soft squishy ones that actually have grit on them, wondering if those are of any use, but i want to basically probably wrap some 220 grit around a block and go to town, 30 degree angles, both ways, side panel of a cargo truck. this is primer filler. I would like to know what i can use for a top coat, thats 1 gallon, where i wont need to use any kind of clear coat... Not sure what kind of paint to look for there. I see the $139 high gloss 2k acrylic gallon at amazon for 130, not sure if i can beat that with anything else. this coat literally doesnt matter, as long as it stays on there 6 months or a year, since its a resale of a cargo truck..
Starting with 320 grit ensures that the paper will roll into and over imperfections. START WITH COURSE PAPER 80-150. Course paper properly cuts the highs and levels to the lows. Too fine a paper (even with a block) will often roll over the imperfection.
I've watched several of your videos tonight and find them interesting, I'm no professional but try and do my best when I can but some people just don't understand how much work goes into even the smallest repair and the price of everything has went up and they wonder why it cost so much to fix the vehicle. I just did a F250 for a guy and did a lot of work to it, if it where me the truck wasn't worth the money it took to fix what I fixed
Seems this guy does know what he is saying! that will give you a good job. around 6 min or just after he says the word BLOCK so many times, i started to laugh.
I specialize in wheel repair and reconditioning but I was given the opportunity to work on body and wheel and these videos have helped tremendously. Thanks
Thank you for the good video. Restoring my 1971 Lemans Sport convertible, and just cannot afford to pay the 10-15 grand I've been quoted by several for a good street paint presentation. Most shops seem to think concours or nothing. I found a mobile soda blasting company that will do soda blast at my garage. The car is relatively clean of rust with some typical body dings and some wavy panels. I figure if I can do the bodywork and prep, I can save a bundle to then have it professionally painted. Again, thank you.
This depends on the size and shape of the panel you are working on. A large flat panel a large one will work better. A smaller area that is not flat a smaller block will work better.
Outstanding. To say the least... Im going to use his methods . like NOW... Yes ive tipped the block.. Yes i used tbe walmart paint. . ive done the dont's... It is now time for the do it correctly. Tnsbk you
+flowman777 That will work if you skip the 220 grit. You will need to work a littler hard with the 320 to be sure all of the 180 grit scratches are out.
Great video and i gueas the best advise i could give is to wet the whole car before paint , that will show you any imperfections when looking down the panels. If you are having a hard time getting the lines out use a da file softly but quickly. An older friend helped me with that years ago and the black car came out slick. Keep up the great work!
Donnie I love your videos, you provide with so much information that could be the difference between an ok job and a great finish. I have a question though, once you block sand and you end up with low spots, do I just try to level them those spot up with body filler again or glaze putty? or should I simply keep block sanding till everything is leveled?.
As I have had some previous diy experience with bodywork and spraypainting your tips an advice have worked for me,the guide coat bit definitely worked on my m/cycle fuel tank,and the end result was better than all my previous diy work,true,proper prep is required for good end result,kind regards.
Awsome thankyou im in australia im moulding monaro bonnet scoop in and found your video very helpful i dont have any skills in body or paint work and have no help the people i no with experience back yard painters seem to no alot about nothing you have sumed the guide coat up for me as i couldn't work out the purpose of sandind every bit of black paint off and still be left with low points with no paint thanks your presentation is clear helpful and detailed keep up the good work
I was taught to block primer with 320 grit. If everything is okay, then I would wet sand it by hand with 400 grit and that was the last thing to do as far as sanding goes.
I've been an autobody hobbyist and have run a small shop since the mid '70s and it's good to see some of the tips you have here. It's always good to learn new things. Thanks for posting!
Amazing video. I worked under a professional for a short time years ago and your video reminded me of the things I forgot. Very comprehensive and well made. Thanks for taking the time. Much appreciated.
I watch my son do this. Now I understand more from your video. I want to help restore a Bertone X 1/9 . Tomorrow, I sand the hood he primed Saturday...carefully. Thank you for explaining so much. We did a VW Bug last month. Beautiful. Learning auto body work is so fun, I barely cook anymore. We have nice cars but we are hungry.
Patty Sherwood lol...I am glad the videos are useful. I guess you can hit McDonald's!
DIY How To Paint A Car School Good idea! We finished the Bertone and it is nice! You teach everything exactly like Ben does, and he is a perfectionist. Now I know he is not obsessing. priming, sanding,( priming), sanding. basecoat, clear, sanding, sanding,...Perfect! Have a nice summer.
I wish I had found this video a year ago! I've got a 1975 Trans AM that I stripped down to bare metal and have epoxy primed. Looking forward to filler priming and blocking now that I've seen this. Thanks!
I would like to work under Donnie Smith on a few projects! Great instructor!!!
Thanks!
This may help some people sanding curves, I use old radiator hoses and heater hoses on curves, I have fender flares on my Camaro and it worked great getting them just right, I just wrap the sand paper around the hose and go at it, works great.
cloak andswagger
I use PVC pipe for the same purpose but it stays rigid
c andswagger;;soft blocks work great on curves,.
cloak andswagger Good idea!
If you're blocking and you get down to bare metal you can't block that area anymore. Because your sandpaper won't sand the metal but will sand everything around it. So the metal will end up being high if you keep blocking there. Just as I was making this comment I came to the point in the video where he basically said the same thing. Oh well. Thanks for the video it was easy to follow and informative.
Leaving it masked off is fine except for when actually using "some" of the extra extra high build Polyester, Epoxy Primers. As the build that it creates will/can leave such a hard/built up edge/line depending on the "masked situation." Plus, applying different stages of primer over the same tape/paper "can" make it a miserable bytch to pull off/unmask. Also? Leaving the used paper can cause LOTTA extra dust/debris that just ends up in your primer being shot, and on some primers? Cause it to "fuzz up" more and ya spend MORE time sanding the stuff vs just using more tape/paper/painters plastic to remask....Just my 2 centavos. Keep a GRINDIN! 👍
Thanks!
awesome videos donnie ,, appreciate your videos
Excellent. Thank you
Great job
Tremendo video. Gracias!
Great video, thanks for making it
Thx for your video uploads. Ya kinda sound like Joel Osteem at times. (my son waterskiing bite) Thx again you da man!
I wouldn't risk using an air-powered tool like a DA sander to block with. It's too easy to mess something up, like digging into the primer, and just overall ruining whatever you primed. I tried to "block" using a DA sander once, and yeah, I screwed my hood up!!!! So I had to basically do everything all over again. DO ALL BLOCKING BY HAND! Just my very honest opinion.
Spetsnaz Pocomaxa what's the difference between blocking and the first sanding to remove the old paint
great info.. thanks
awesome drinking game. Take a swig everytime he says "block"
That's the point of the video. Ha are you sure you need a reason to drink? Me thinks not.
Anyone who is employed at a body shop has not lack of "reasons" to be drinking.
That's murder, bitch
DEBOSS GARAGE yeah right 5 minutes until he starts to say anything useful.
eksine j
I love a bit of dust, I use electric ⚡️ DA/flatbed sanders, I don’t have extraction system unfortunately, all the spiders 🕷 on my workshop are white. 😂
All that block sanding is whit out water? I thought that I had to sand before painting with a 500 or 600 sandpaper and water
There are wet sanding and dry sanding methods. Either can be used and both are effective. And you are correct, you want to final sand before painting with 400 to 600 grit sandpaper before painting. Thanks for watching!
Donnie Smith. Hello! I have a question if I may. I am wet sanding 2K primer with 400 and I hit metal on some edges. My question is Do I have to put primer again on that expoused metal and if I do what primer? 2K or epoxy primer? Remember im wet sanding for paint, thanks.👍🇺🇸
Finish sand 800 for silvers.
thank you!
You're Welcome!
I know what you are talking about. There are really no universal procedures for these newer cars. It is getting to where each specific make and model has their own repair procedures. You really need to get the manufacture recommended procedures for these new steels. The industry is definitely changing!
Thanks for sharing Donnie.. Makes my finished job the quality that I'm looking for. Your teaching technique is easy to follow..
Saving $$$ ALWAYS costs more in the long run, 3 years later I'm re doing my bloody hood cause I was being cheap and or lazy and dumb
Thanks for the videos mate great refresher courses
Great video,learned a lot,about to venture out on my first prep job to save some money and this helped a lot.Thanks
If you're sanding and you get a high spot that's bare metal, could that mean that's a crown from a dent? Should you knock it down with a hammer before proceeding?
Awesome...I am glad you receive the sander and like the sander. Be sure to post some pics and videos of your project on my Collision Blast Facebook page! I hope you get good use out of the sander.
Thanks for watching!
You packed a lot of good useful info into this video. Thanks for taking the time to film it!!
How many of you wanted him say get er done?
I also think hand blocking is much better, because it gives you more precise control; a DA, well it can pretty easily get away from you if your not guiding it and well there you go...
I'm block sanding my primer with 320 grit sand paper. Within 5 seconds I start getting clumps on my sandpaper. If I don't stop to clean the clumps off, the clumps start putting scratches in my primer. What did i do wrong? Did I spray the primer to thick?
Cross sanding ( blocking ) isn't the best way. The best way is to block straight from 1 end to the other end all the way. You need to walk with a long board to make it %100 straight, the contour of vehicals only show waves from the length, it's impossible to see waves from up and down.
why my surfacer is coming off when i rub it 4-5 times? also i see small pin holes appear when i start rubbing with water..its like bubble stuck inside..so i have to rub that area whole to remove that bubble and re apply surfacer..and i can see scratches and some small dents even after applying surfacer..shouldn't it fill all small holes? or i have to use body filler for even small holes before apply surfacer?
Thank you so much for the tips. I'm restoring a 1959 Glastron Fiberglass boat and just primed the hull and wasn't exactly sure what to do next to prep for the finish coat. This video was exactly what I need to see.
I am going to start a boat project soon. I would use guide coat and final sand the boat with 400 grit sandpaper. Then you should be ready to paint. You can finish it like a car. You can also use a gel coat, which is a little thicker, but does not have the gloss level as automotive base and clear. This lesson will help you out with the prep process. www.collisionblast.com/paint-prep/ Thanks for watching.
I dont like my car enough to do this much work. I just sprayed dark sealer and skipped primer all together then painted. Came out fine it's just gonna get messed up in parking lots with shopping carts.
"Once u hit the metal. Its not gonna sand down any further."
Man am i glad i watched this video. I would of sanded right through 😂
I had a hard time listing to the music I thought this was a blocking lesson but it was a music video... And if I need a block a good concrete block will work won't it ...
Thanks Dan!
when i use to do full paint jobs i would guide coat on the hole car to find lows and highs
I agree, it works great for that!
Daym dude your really good!
Ericthecarguy sent me here.
Thanks, yeah, I like watching some of Ericthecarguy videos too.
Which video does he mention this channel?
Dude, why do you have the Harry Potter theme song as your background music? Haha
Great video I love the way you explain things simply and down to earth big 👍 and subscribed
Best explanations on block sanding I've seen yet. Love the boat analogy. This is going to be very helpful for my resto. Thanks!
I love the powder Waze year I hate the spray paint or the spray Guide coat
I love the powder Waze year I hate the spray paint or the spray Guide coat
Thanks for watching! I am glad you and your classmates enjoy the videos. I'll be doing some more hands-on videos soon!
I like your videos but dude, that guitar crap is ridiculous. No more. Be proud of your kid off line.
I"m a retired Auto Body technician, yes we are Auto Body Technician's not Body Men. Any way this man sure knows his trade. Thanks for the great video....Canada.
Yes, technicians...and cars are becoming more complex every day. Thanks for watching and for your comments.
Auto body technicians never retire. Idk who youre trying to pull the wool over. I bet you are doing your own projects at a minimum, that's actually what I am doing currently finishing up a 1965 impala (factory full restore every bolt removed and done correct.
Donnie Smith. Hello! What should I do if I did the body work and of course I thought my body work was really good on a hood but after using Eastwood contour primer I used 320 and some metal showed up. Now im confused. Should I spray some epoxy primer in that small area then sanded down and spray 2K primer? Thanks and love the videos, thanks for the time and effort you put into them👍.
MrElPoderozo1 definitely use the 2kp- depending on the color of the car you may want to hide the work by spraying a silver paint in that area. Its a 90's trick me and some friends came up with for ppg/matrix systems.
Good luck
Liutenant General. Thank you for answering me. So it doesn't matter if it is showing some expoused metal as I was feathering down the Eastwood Contour primer?
I can spray the Eastwood 2K primer over the metal and it should be ok? Thanks again for your time 👍
sorry, don't need the guitar. need to block that out please because it is ruining hearing what I came here to hear.
I agree with everything your say'n and I've learned these things over the years. The more you do it, the better you get.
Instead of guidecoat, use ink if you're trying to be cheap. But not spray paint.
I needed a video to refresh my body work, this was the best video, I have a 7 trans am primed and guide coated going to get it going here soon before boot camp :) thank you sir.
INformative for rookies like me.
Can the surfacer filler DTM be applied to both metal and putty?
So if you sand through the epoxy primer to bare metal you would do more filler?
Thaaaank youuuuuuuu, very very informative, will do, and im off & running.
Is it possible to block sand a motorcycle tank? I want to paint my 70 triumph gas tank and concerned about block sanding on a rounded tank. Should I use a flexible block?
I would use the flexible.
Best Video series on TH-cam. I am by no mean the best bodyman but I can hold my own. I was passing on knowledge to my friends and they did not believe me about blocking and guide coats until they saw your videos. Bunch of rookies.. Keep up the good job. Pass on the knowledge...
What blocks do you use can you make a video of all your blocks please?
Guid coat try pastel chalk it works and you can in many colors and cheap
If you have a low spot after the guide, can you add a skim coat of body filler on top of primer?
David Standel I would sand the low area with 180 and apply a skim coat of glaze putty.
Check line powder from Home Depot works as good!
thanks Donnie, I appreciate you doing the videos. Keep up the good job.
i want to paint matte black,,what are the steps,and what kind of paint should i use?
i subscribe at collision blast,but no email sent to me for verification,,
Here is a video playlist for matte black How To Prep Aftermarket Parts Before Spraying Paint And Test If Strippig To Metal Is Needed If you did not receive a verification email from Collision Blast, it probably went to your spam or trash. Be sure to check those places for the email.
Acrylic lacquer flat black nappa same as guide coat
Very informative and easy to follow! I'm starting on my '67 Mustang Fastback soon and am doing the rounds on TH-cam for knowledge. I have a page of notes from your video!
I have a question, if you wouldn't mind, when I go to do the roof of the mustang, how do you recommend I attack it? Prime the roof, apply guide coat, then work at it in say quarters, or do complete drivers side then passenger side? I'm worried that doing it in smaller sections won't flow smoothly into the next section and end up with an uneven end job.
Thanks :)
I'm wondering do you use guide coat after you change from 220 to 300
You can use guide coat at anytime. I would not hesitate to use guide coat between coats.
Thank. Ok one more questions I have a 73 Buick Electra and I want to strip it down to the metal, would walnut shell be a safe way. Trying to cut the hard labor down..
C holifield; I use it after I,ve primed,then 400 grit then 600 ,if I,m not happy with the result,i prime again,then guide coat then 400 then 600 I,ve found I don,t need to guide coat between grits,i think a lot depends on how well you break down the filler and if you lay it down evenly as you can from the start and use the least amount possible.
So you can't show us as you're speaking how you do it? I'm trying to figure out if I need an epoxy under the primer & if you shoot primer over the 800 grit sanded spots. Can't seem to feather the paint enough not to see a line !
I see why it's so expensive to get a good paint job. I'm a good mechanic but body work and paint is an art in itself. Working on a 1990 ZR-1 and it has so many curves on it. It's white and I'm keeping it white, all the factory paint has like little bumps/bubbles and some spyder cracks. I think I have bit off more than I can chew. It takes a lot of patience and a certain feel. Thanks for your videos, they really help a novice like me a lot. 👍👍
This is by far the best explanatory video about how and when to blocks and. Excellent work sir
th-cam.com/video/6CDxfGjY3LA/w-d-xo.html
What grit should i use new fender before paint?
I learned a lot. Thank you
I'm glad to hear that. Thanks for watching.
I like to wet sand do to dust control, do you recommend to wet sand if our main concern is rust prevention? ?
If it is primed, than wet sanding should be fine. Just dry bare metal spots off as soon as you are done sanding. I used wet sanding methods for years.
10:50........"Now let's talk about blocking technique"......the 30 degree cross for great shine ......This is new and amazing to me thank you and happy Christmas!
....
Well done you made my job neat street THANK you
Excellent and very informative thank you.
Now 2022, it’s been 11 years since this video aired. The worst blocking issue it almost two fold on the same vehicle. This is my 67 C10 truck. #1 area hard to block is the center of the front hood. It has a peak, reverse crown and convex areas that change from from to rear. I used a contour gauge to form a block from a hood in the package my son bought. Once drawn, 32 grit on die grinder created the front, but it get smaller at the rear. Make a second one and keep going. I was exhausted until I got into the reverse crown that changes to larger toward the rear as you progress down the side, front to rear. Having built a block that fits helps duplicate both sides so close you could not tell.
As you mentioned, but black epoxy, covered the a gray high build, let’s you know once you pass thru primer into a sealer into a different color.
Thanks.
Thanks. I was actually interested if there was other types of blocks, or what they were, since ive grown up, weve used 2x4's, and i see those square rubber ones with holes in them, and the soft squishy ones that actually have grit on them, wondering if those are of any use, but i want to basically probably wrap some 220 grit around a block and go to town, 30 degree angles, both ways, side panel of a cargo truck. this is primer filler.
I would like to know what i can use for a top coat, thats 1 gallon, where i wont need to use any kind of clear coat... Not sure what kind of paint to look for there. I see the $139 high gloss 2k acrylic gallon at amazon for 130, not sure if i can beat that with anything else. this coat literally doesnt matter, as long as it stays on there 6 months or a year, since its a resale of a cargo truck..
do you ever fill low spots with filler or glazing putty?
+jpboston82 Here is a quick video I created to help answer your question. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
+DIY How To Paint A Car School Opps...here is the link to video th-cam.com/video/NN3g2vyZZNM/w-d-xo.html
Starting with 320 grit ensures that the paper will roll into and over imperfections.
START WITH COURSE PAPER 80-150. Course paper properly cuts the highs and levels to the lows. Too fine a paper (even with a block) will often roll over the imperfection.
great series by a real professional, keep up the good work, I have not only learned a lot but also refreshed my memory on a couple of basic methods
Thanks for commenting and for watching.
I've watched several of your videos tonight and find them interesting, I'm no professional but try and do my best when I can but some people just don't understand how much work goes into even the smallest repair and the price of everything has went up and they wonder why it cost so much to fix the vehicle. I just did a F250 for a guy and did a lot of work to it, if it where me the truck wasn't worth the money it took to fix what I fixed
Seems this guy does know what he is saying! that will give you a good job. around 6 min or just after he says the word BLOCK so many times, i started to laugh.
I specialize in wheel repair and reconditioning but I was given the opportunity to work on body and wheel and these videos have helped tremendously. Thanks
Thank you for the good video. Restoring my 1971 Lemans Sport convertible, and just cannot afford to pay the 10-15 grand I've been quoted by several for a good street paint presentation. Most shops seem to think concours or nothing. I found a mobile soda blasting company that will do soda blast at my garage. The car is relatively clean of rust with some typical body dings and some wavy panels. I figure if I can do the bodywork and prep, I can save a bundle to then have it professionally painted. Again, thank you.
u r a wonderful teacher really
Outstanding videos, excellent presentation.
What length is considered long to short blocks I got 6 inch clear to 30 inch
This depends on the size and shape of the panel you are working on. A large flat panel a large one will work better. A smaller area that is not flat a smaller block will work better.
Outstanding. To say the least... Im going to use his methods . like NOW... Yes ive tipped the block.. Yes i used tbe walmart paint. . ive done the dont's... It is now time for the do it correctly. Tnsbk you
How about 180 then 320 then made 500...?
+flowman777 That will work if you skip the 220 grit. You will need to work a littler hard with the 320 to be sure all of the 180 grit scratches are out.
thanks.!
So, I guess you can't block sand epoxy primer then? Is it only possible to block sand polyester primer surfacer or 2k urethane primer surfacer?
Great video and i gueas the best advise i could give is to wet the whole car before paint , that will show you any imperfections when looking down the panels. If you are having a hard time getting the lines out use a da file softly but quickly. An older friend helped me with that years ago and the black car came out slick. Keep up the great work!
Donnie I love your videos, you provide with so much information that could be the difference between an ok job and a great finish. I have a question though, once you block sand and you end up with low spots, do I just try to level them those spot up with body filler again or glaze putty? or should I simply keep block sanding till everything is leveled?.
Tips was a lot of help was unsure what to do when coming to bare metal when block sanding it 16 restoring a 65 mustang 289 4 speed k code car
As I have had some previous diy experience with bodywork and spraypainting your tips an advice have worked for me,the guide coat bit definitely worked on my m/cycle fuel tank,and the end result was better than all my previous diy work,true,proper prep is required for good end result,kind regards.
Awsome thankyou im in australia im moulding monaro bonnet scoop in and found your video very helpful i dont have any skills in body or paint work and have no help the people i no with experience back yard painters seem to no alot about nothing you have sumed the guide coat up for me as i couldn't work out the purpose of sandind every bit of black paint off and still be left with low points with no paint thanks your presentation is clear helpful and detailed keep up the good work
I was taught to block primer with 320 grit. If everything is okay, then I would wet sand it by hand with 400 grit and that was the last thing to do as far as sanding goes.
I've been an autobody hobbyist and have run a small shop since the mid '70s and it's good to see some of the tips you have here. It's always good to learn new things. Thanks for posting!
i was almost not. gonna thumbs up .. but then i saw the man ! THE FONZ !! EYYYYY?