I’ve been in the collision industry for 38 years. Straightening panels has become so much more difficult throughout the years. The thinner the metal they use the harder it is to work. Much easier to pull but harder to sand filler flat because the slightest pressure moves the metal. Back in the day it was more difficult to work the metal but sanding filler work was much easier because the metal didn’t flex with pressure and there were more body lines and convexed or rolls in the panels. Today’s vehicles the metal is so thin and flat panels like to bounce.
I guess that explains why every body repair guy I grew up with hated Bondo repairs. It was traditional to avoid filler on older cars. Not anymore it seems.
I have hardly ever done any body work. Loved your video...very professional attitude and patient! Thank you! Why did you put tape on the door window? Just curious.
Nice tips for a DIYr like me. I just went through my first gallon of U-pol Professional filler which sells for $37 at O’Reilly. It’s one step up from their base filler. I used to use Evercoat, but it’s now twice as much as U-pol. I really like the U-pol versus Evercoat and 3M Bondo brand. You don’t have to stir it up to mix the resin when you first open it up! It’s smooth and easy to spread and apply. I get a minimum amount of pin holes in it. It easy to sand. No reason to ever use another brand or pay more to get a “better” product imo. Great for my needs. Thought I would say that since you compared the USC brand filler to U-pol. I agree with you.
Thanks for the info. I bought 1 gallon of evercoat about 1yr ago and it’s so much better than Bondo filler, but it cost me almost $80!!! That’s outrageous! Now I’ll know that there’s a better option, although I do t do much body work, but I’m planning to start getting into it more.
Yes...ALL EVERCOAT products went UP in price at a 30-35 PERCENT markup beginning of LAST year 2022...So their BEST quality RAGE ULTRA filler went from $80.00 TO A whopping $135.00 retail price! 😬.....I mean, c'mon EVERCOAT 🥵. THAT IS your THANKS to us restoration guys that SWORE by using the EVERCOAT QUALITY line of fillers, polyprimers etc....I hadn't ever used ANY UPOL fillers yet, but I am currently using the 3M (customer has an O Reilly material account so) which? I actually REALLY like it. Doesn't sand ANYTHING like the RAGE ULTRA (as THAT IS WHAT we have to pay for- SUPER easy sanding filler that is reminiscent of drywall topcoat mud!) But still....Guess I'll have to try some UPOL after these two 3M gallons are used. 😎 Happy Restoring and Cruizin 🤘🔥🤘
I’ve been doing this for 38 years now and you’re right, it’s not a job for everyone. Sanding has never bothered me, don’t think twice about it, but mechanical work on the other hand I have no patience for whatsoever. 🤷🏼♂️
Amazing tutorial Chris, it's very interesting to see how you pull out the dents in the door you could actually see the dent coming out when you pulled on it while nocking down the crown. As I've mentioned before body filler is my weak point as I always take of to much then I find it difficult to get the shape back in the panel. Thanks for sharing your skills with us🙏👍John UK
Hey Chris. Great job but have you ever tried the glue tabs they make for paintless dent repairs. There are several guys on you tube channel that show them fixing dents that are worse than the one you fixed. I was working in body shops where we drilled 1/8" holes to screw in the slide hammer + pull rods to the same type of repair you did. How times have changed. Thanks again Vince.
Yes, I've been working on my glue pulling and pdr skills. I do some glue pulling in a upcoming video. I'm not as skilled at it as a pdr tech. some of the dents they repair is impressive for sure.
@@GarageNoiseI'm NOT an auto body repair expert, by ANY means. I'll start with that. People do not realize how easy/deceiving TH-cam can be sometimes ,when it comes to watching actual experts "show off" their skill. Experience. Only word lol.
Don't even need to tape off the adjacent cab edge (butt right UP next to the door edge via the door handle repair area)😬😯 Lol...I'd have 40 grit gouges (OR leastways, 80) ALL scarring UP that factory OEM white paint on the cab edge probably 🥴.....Great stuff again, you the man 😎 Happy Restoring and CRUIZIN 🤘🔥🤘
Hey Chris, I see you use many different fillers on your channel (3M, U-Pol, Roberlo, etc.) and was wondering which you prefer working with, which you recommend or why you use specific fillers on certain projects. Mostly I am doing repairs, but I also have a full restoration project in the works and would like to get your input. Love the channel and can't get enough of the knowledge you share with us DIY guys. Would love to see a video on filler brand comparisons in the future also to show why one is better than the others.
Very informative video, thanks for taking the time to ezplain everything. Is there a way to thin the duraglas and what product would you recommend for this?
Did he feather his edges enough? I’m curious I’m very new to this and would honestly like to know. It seems like he just blocked and blended straight over into the pre-existing topcoat
I’m kind of liking body work. I bought my first stud welder from HF but I like your rig. I’d also like to get into welding. What is it you’re using and do you have any recommendations? Anyone is welcome to chime in?
Pretty basic stuff first rule never put your bare hands on bare metal !!! And on higher end cars never put filler on bare metal as The ingredients in the actual Hardner of the filler causes rust underneath the filler in time as it Reacts with the 😮steel it’s ok on smash work in a fast 💨 moving shop but on my own cars or Restoration work on muscle cars epoxy primer first always
I haven't heard shit that intense since Earl Scheib!! That was some pretty gnarly garage noise Chris. Your sandpaper symphony with dent hammer percussion composition was like Bondo meets Bohemian Rhapsody. All I know is that DA sander solo with the primer spray spurts in the middle was pure genius. You're like modern day garage Bethoven!
I’m old school but it’s cheaper to go buy a replacement part aftermarket then to fix the problem by the time you pull out and bondo block primer it’s better to just buy a replacement one
Cheaper? No then you have to pay for the overhaul and transfer of parts between doors and to remove and install plus prep time and paint materials definitely better to repair the door for both the tech and the insurance’s wallet
Hi Chris, nice video. Regards from México. Doubt. What is that on black color over the bonded area? 15:12 Is it spray paint? To fast to see what are you applying. Tank you in advance.
I had to look to see what filler I was using🤣. It's definitely NOT the worst, It's not my favorite. Right now I'm using upol lightweight gold and that is excellent.
@@GarageNoise bondo brand is pretty terrible, USC glaze makes more pinholes than it fixes too. That Upol stuff is pretty good. We use Rage ultra at work, no putty or glaze required. Chalks up real nice when you sand and spreads like butter.
I use Rage Ultra also. I like it because it stays green longer and makes it super easy to sand. I always top coat a thin layer of Icing on mine but everyone does it a little different.
When you consider the blendind, de triming, price of the new part and if the used door is not the right color you need to paint the inside of the door. It ends up being more costly to replace.
@@GarageNoise My gramps was a master body shop repairs expert. With 58 years experience. He'd Strongly Disagree With You. You're a Novice!! By comparison. You haven't even used the old school tools! So you're Wrong. 😣😣😣😮😮😮
I’ve been in the collision industry for 38 years. Straightening panels has become so much more difficult throughout the years. The thinner the metal they use the harder it is to work. Much easier to pull but harder to sand filler flat because the slightest pressure moves the metal. Back in the day it was more difficult to work the metal but sanding filler work was much easier because the metal didn’t flex with pressure and there were more body lines and convexed or rolls in the panels. Today’s vehicles the metal is so thin and flat panels like to bounce.
I guess that explains why every body repair guy I grew up with hated Bondo repairs. It was traditional to avoid filler on older cars. Not anymore it seems.
it's always nice watching a skilled craftsman work. i watched with no sound and it was great.
Cool, thanks
😂
Good. Idea! I like the idea of your dustless blocks and sanding paper. I’m going to check them out. Thanks,
Phillip Hall
Work great I will soon be doing a review on a dustless system that is more aff.
Your work is amazing , I've never done bodywork but now I will pickup on your work , my props sir...
Awesome! Appreciate the comment and support!
I have hardly ever done any body work. Loved your video...very professional attitude and patient! Thank you! Why did you put tape on the door window? Just curious.
@@adollarshort1573 so the glass won’t fall down after he took out the regulator
Nice tips for a DIYr like me. I just went through my first gallon of U-pol Professional filler which sells for $37 at O’Reilly. It’s one step up from their base filler. I used to use Evercoat, but it’s now twice as much as U-pol. I really like the U-pol versus Evercoat and 3M Bondo brand. You don’t have to stir it up to mix the resin when you first open it up! It’s smooth and easy to spread and apply. I get a minimum amount of pin holes in it. It easy to sand. No reason to ever use another brand or pay more to get a “better” product imo. Great for my needs. Thought I would say that since you compared the USC brand filler to U-pol. I agree with you.
Yes, Right now I feel like the upol filler is the best all around filler all things considered. Appreciate your comment!
Thanks for the info. I bought 1 gallon of evercoat about 1yr ago and it’s so much better than Bondo filler, but it cost me almost $80!!! That’s outrageous! Now I’ll know that there’s a better option, although I do t do much body work, but I’m planning to start getting into it more.
Yes...ALL EVERCOAT products went UP in price at a 30-35 PERCENT markup beginning of LAST year 2022...So their BEST quality RAGE ULTRA filler went from $80.00 TO A whopping $135.00 retail price! 😬.....I mean, c'mon EVERCOAT 🥵. THAT IS your THANKS to us restoration guys that SWORE by using the EVERCOAT QUALITY line of fillers, polyprimers etc....I hadn't ever used ANY UPOL fillers yet, but I am currently using the 3M (customer has an O Reilly material account so) which? I actually REALLY like it. Doesn't sand ANYTHING like the RAGE ULTRA (as THAT IS WHAT we have to pay for- SUPER easy sanding filler that is reminiscent of drywall topcoat mud!) But still....Guess I'll have to try some UPOL after these two 3M gallons are used. 😎 Happy Restoring and Cruizin 🤘🔥🤘
@@_N_B_0496 And yeah, STAY AWAY from actual BONDO brand filler! NOT a quality product AT ALL 😞.... I mean CRAP .
I wouldn't have the patience for all that. I'm glad someone does
👍
I’ve been doing this for 38 years now and you’re right, it’s not a job for everyone. Sanding has never bothered me, don’t think twice about it, but mechanical work on the other hand I have no patience for whatsoever. 🤷🏼♂️
Amazing tutorial Chris, it's very interesting to see how you pull out the dents in the door you could actually see the dent coming out when you pulled on it while nocking down the crown. As I've mentioned before body filler is my weak point as I always take of to much then I find it difficult to get the shape back in the panel.
Thanks for sharing your skills with us🙏👍John UK
Glad it was helpful!
No entiendo mucho inglés y no fue my intensión causar ningún problema yo no beo bien a más de 20 pies
Have done some bodywork and was extremely hard, but with your advise it'll be a lot easier for us poor mortals. Excellent explanations by the way.
You can do it!
You Sir are a folking professional!!! They way you worked that door before the filler was awesome 😎👍👍 ot was almost straight as a arrow!!! 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Many thanks my friend! Appreciate your comment!
Very helpful video , I am learning loads of tips and tricks .
Thank you
We are th ones that appreciate u Chriss God Bless🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Thanks brother!
Hey Chris. Great job but have you ever tried the glue tabs they make for paintless dent repairs. There are several guys on you tube channel that show them fixing dents that are worse than the one you fixed. I was working in body shops where we drilled 1/8" holes to screw in the slide hammer + pull rods to the same type of repair you did. How times have changed. Thanks again Vince.
Yes, I've been working on my glue pulling and pdr skills. I do some glue pulling in a upcoming video. I'm not as skilled at it as a pdr tech. some of the dents they repair is impressive for sure.
@@GarageNoiseI'm NOT an auto body repair expert, by ANY means. I'll start with that. People do not realize how easy/deceiving TH-cam can be sometimes ,when it comes to watching actual experts "show off" their skill. Experience. Only word lol.
Don't even need to tape off the adjacent cab edge (butt right UP next to the door edge via the door handle repair area)😬😯 Lol...I'd have 40 grit gouges (OR leastways, 80) ALL scarring UP that factory OEM white paint on the cab edge probably 🥴.....Great stuff again, you the man 😎 Happy Restoring and CRUIZIN 🤘🔥🤘
I did my first dent removal/body filler yesterday its so thin magnets still stick but theg crease is gone
Awesome!👍
first video i watched from you brotha! love the tips and tricks🤙keep up the content
Awesome! Welcome to the channel and community brother! Appreciate the comment and support!
did you guys repint that whole side?why you didnt mask of that off door side before sanding?
Great instructional on bodywork. A few more of your channel and I might try. Paint is my intimidation factor.
Hey Chris, I see you use many different fillers on your channel (3M, U-Pol, Roberlo, etc.) and was wondering which you prefer working with, which you recommend or why you use specific fillers on certain projects. Mostly I am doing repairs, but I also have a full restoration project in the works and would like to get your input. Love the channel and can't get enough of the knowledge you share with us DIY guys. Would love to see a video on filler brand comparisons in the future also to show why one is better than the others.
Very informative video, thanks for taking the time to ezplain everything. Is there a way to thin the duraglas and what product would you recommend for this?
A product called plastic honey
amzn.to/3wrgeM0
@@GarageNoise thanks! I ordered some
DA IS YOUR FRIEND ON THIS ONE WHITE VERY FORGIVING. GOOD JOB BROTHER
👍
Thanks again for another great tutorial !!!
My pleasure!
This is helpful!
May be a silly question, but is there any benefit from pushing the lower panel from inside the truck?
Have a recommendation for a sprung door? Looks like someone went overboard with a bag to gain access to the interior door lock.
When you spray lacquer pain, what pressure do you set the spray on... It used to be 42lbs has that changed?
Did he feather his edges enough? I’m curious I’m very new to this and would honestly like to know. It seems like he just blocked and blended straight over into the pre-existing topcoat
I feather egdge the paint but I also applied the filler over the edge of paint as well.
I’m kind of liking body work. I bought my first stud welder from HF but I like your rig. I’d also like to get into welding. What is it you’re using and do you have any recommendations? Anyone is welcome to chime in?
Is my first time doing body work with Bondo and it's cracking and also has pin holes what should I do sand it out and start over?
Not sure why it would be cracking? What filler are you using?
Yes
Great as always. Thanks Chris👍👌👏👏
My pleasure!
ol' timer body man trick is to use a center punch on sharp crease damage
I've done that before ,they come in handy
Po
Interesting!
@@GarageNoiseyou must paint the inside of the door
Great repair job Chris 👋
Thanks 👍
Great tips and tricks 💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾💪🏾
Thanks brother! Appreciate the comment and support!
Another great one thanks
Thanks brother!
Very demure, very mindful!
👍
Damn good! Helps me lots.😂👍
Awesome! Appreciate the support!
great video. thank you.
Excellent tutorial! I liked this so much I subscribed, thanks.
Thanks for the sub!
I’m struggling trying to learn how to feel the highs and lows. I always over sand and I can’t get my edges feathered right
This may help
th-cam.com/video/HxQgQp4gb2U/w-d-xo.html
What's happening exactly with your edges?
Pretty basic stuff first rule never put your bare hands on bare metal !!! And on higher end cars never put filler on bare metal as The ingredients in the actual Hardner of the filler causes rust underneath the filler in time as it Reacts with the 😮steel it’s ok on smash work in a fast 💨 moving shop but on my own cars or Restoration work on muscle cars epoxy primer first always
I haven't heard shit that intense since Earl Scheib!!
That was some pretty gnarly garage noise Chris. Your sandpaper symphony with dent hammer percussion composition was like Bondo meets Bohemian Rhapsody. All I know is that DA sander solo with the primer spray spurts in the middle was pure genius. You're like modern day garage Bethoven!
🤣🤣👍
I don't recognize the hand tool being used to "pull" the dent out with? Anyone generous enough to clue me in, please?
spot welder tool for dent removal #auto body #dent tool
@@GarageNoise thank you.
@@GarageNoiseand if you learn how to use this thing right!? the mass will stay on the car! how many time it flew away while working?😮
Good job amigo
Why do a lot of professional spray epoxy primer then Nandi over it.. I always see the opposite first Nandi then primer .. good vide very informative
I’m old school but it’s cheaper to go buy a replacement part aftermarket then to fix the problem by the time you pull out and bondo block primer it’s better to just buy a replacement one
Maybe, but then how would I make a video sharing how to repair it?😁
Cheaper? No then you have to pay for the overhaul and transfer of parts between doors and to remove and install plus prep time and paint materials definitely better to repair the door for both the tech and the insurance’s wallet
I can see you have never done bodywork
Is your g90 110v? How do you like it
Yes, and for the price it's awesome. Not the perfect tool but worth the money. I've had mine about 2years, it gets heavy use and I've had no issues.
Great job l love it
👍Thank you!
u may fix it with pdr technique
👍
Looking nice
Thank you 😊
So nice!
Thank you! 😊
Good video
Thanks!
Do you prime over P320?
Yes
Hi Chris, nice video. Regards from México.
Doubt. What is that on black color over the bonded area? 15:12
Is it spray paint? To fast to see what are you applying.
Tank you in advance.
its called guide coat. comes as powder like he used or in a spray can
Thanks
I like it is good job
👍
Good job!!
Thanks!
What no tape or door open for not hitting the bed or the rear panel
ouch
Blender but why add more work but matches do work
You are using the king of masking tapes and sandpaper but the absolute worst filler. Interesting contrast.
I had to look to see what filler I was using🤣. It's definitely NOT the worst, It's not my favorite. Right now I'm using upol lightweight gold and that is excellent.
@@GarageNoise bondo brand is pretty terrible, USC glaze makes more pinholes than it fixes too. That Upol stuff is pretty good. We use Rage ultra at work, no putty or glaze required. Chalks up real nice when you sand and spreads like butter.
I use Rage Ultra also. I like it because it stays green longer and makes it super easy to sand. I always top coat a thin layer of Icing on mine but everyone does it a little different.
@@Grimsaviourhi I messed up a panel can you help
@@abdulwadood.8 sure, what can I help with?
Hi much to get this fix
About 1000
Honestly thought the spot welding equipment was like $10k. seems to be less than $500 for all that stuff. not bad.
👍
So new to body work and trying to learn. Seems to me that just replacing the door and painting would be cheaper. No?
Maybe but not always, if you replce it then you must blend adjacent panels. That's additional labor.
Since its white can you but a guide coat on first to find the low spots?
You could over sanded paint. Guide coat doesn't stuck well to clear tho.
@@GarageNoise thanks for always answering my posts.❤️
My work check
🤔
Good shake.
I apply some metal glaze with my bondo
👍
But match All the way It's white better too blend white isn't always white
By the time you worked on the door and did the bodywork and all the work it was cheaper just t buy a new one
When you consider the blendind, de triming, price of the new part and if the used door is not the right color you need to paint the inside of the door. It ends up being more costly to replace.
Didnt really mention any DON'Ts.... Just how to do it right.😊
If you where a pro you would of tore down all panels first Js
Dodge colors usually match good 👍 butt match it to the bed
How long have I been asleep? Do you really have a vac on your sanders? I was going to ask for job sweeping. Never mind.
IT'S NOT WORKING LIKE THE OLD SCHOOL TOOLS DID😤😥
A lot better and easier!
@@GarageNoise My gramps was a master body shop repairs expert. With 58 years experience. He'd Strongly Disagree With You. You're a Novice!! By comparison. You haven't even used the old school tools! So you're Wrong. 😣😣😣😮😮😮
@@captainamericaamerica8090 A novice? Wow. Where are your vids using these old school tools showing everyone how it's done?
No matter what I do, mine does not look like that
Hey no Epoxy 1st? Yes i`m going there lol
Lol, the great debate
Should have taken panel off first and done it all,, really no easy way out with body work
That can work sometimes. But inner reinforcement bars and window rails are a paint to get behind of or work around.
Bondo!
👍
A good prdr guy could've fixed everything on that door except for the high spot on the middle lower, and possibly that too. Regardless, nice video
I can tell you have never done bodywork
Hi wouldn't have been more quicker to buy a new door😅
Sure. Do you want to pay the difference. Cause insurance aint
You’d Yankees come to Australia to teach you’d how to repair I car . We have seen your repairs over the times . Shit .!!
👍ok, mate
Just replace the whole damn door. This is 21 st century . Not the 50’ or 60’
So much more work to replace the whole door.
IS THAT THE KID FROM OCC
Who Daris? Lol, kinda look like him 🤣