@@Wrenchen-with-Darren Thanks Darren. So true, back in the sixties if the doors shut and stayed shut they rolled off the line. Then we come along and want them perfect.
That video sure answered a lot of questions Mark! I’ve got two of those “pick end” hammers. I’ll grind one down to get the blunt end as you did. That was one of my many questions….. “what if I have a high spot that, when blocked, gets me back to sheet metal?” You answered it. I also appreciate the review of the various fillers etc. and best practices for their use. Obviously I’ll follow the manufacturer’s instructions, but seeing these things used “in the field” is super helpful. I’m still working on Pop’s rear doors. Lots of damage over the decades. Getting the shape correct is difficult. All I can do is the best I can do.
@@robertmazzei2412 thanks Robert. Don't be afraid of getting a little aggressive with the doors. Sometimes you have to get pretty heavy handed to get the doors where they need to be.
Very true. I saw a car I had done in my youth where I just filled molding holes with filler and you could see each and every spot, not super noticeable but I could see them. Newer products are more stable but do shrink and it doesn't take much to show up in super shiny paint.
Hey Mark, Im new to the body finishing part of my project and always find it informative learning about the different products and how to use them. Your car is looking really good and the care and attention you’re putting into it really shows. Thanks for the video and hope you enjoy the weekend!
Thanks Ray, I appreciate and hope you get something out of my videos. I am sure you will be able to a nice jobs once you get a little experience under your belt.
Yes sir so im doin a 66 Mustang coupe rear quarter panels and low spots are driving me nuts but this is just what i needed to get these panels str8.....you just saved me a head ache
Thank you for the attention to detail in your video. There is always a certain reason for certain things. I know why I have lines looking like cracks in my paint job. Thanks again.
Thanks Alonso. That sucks and unfortunately the only way to get rid of them is a total redo or ignore them if you can. I learned the hard way too so don't feel bad.
its interesting that there's so many channels teaching the hard way ,wrong and eventually getting there instead of the PROPER way , procedures and methods .
Thanks Steve. Couple more gifts for Xmas and I am all done so it will be a great week just cruising to the 25th. Then I can focus on the GTO with no distractions.
Thanks David. I learned the hard way over the years making mistakes and then seeing others mistakes. Most of the time I used the wrong product or the right product incorrectly.
I had some square body truck doors that gave me fit getting them perfect then I discovered the 36” wall paper tool now it part of my body work arsenal. It’s nice to see some real world project body work like so many of us weekend warriors do! I have a question do you know any methods for checking the quality of one’s air supply?? I’m having issues with clear coat cratering and it’s got me stopped dead in my tracks. Compressor is barely a year old I have it plumed into the shop with 1/2” pipe with a dedicated line for spraying which goes up and down the wall 4 times with drip legs and valves at the bottoms then into two water oils separators then a desiccant filter then a motor guard M60 all of my filters have 1/2” inlet and outlets. I keep a dedicated air hose and use 5/16” HF fittings. I use a Devilbiss DV 1 for clear. I clean with soap n water then DuPont wax and grease remover then isopropyl alcohol mixed with water I always apply with one towel and remove with a clean one. Others have said air supply but I’m having a hard time accepting that !
Hi Tim and thanks for watching and the comment. Hey any tool or device that gets the job done is a good tool in my book. Doesn't have to be some fancy thing these "professional" builders use as long as it gets it done. Your air system is 10 times better than mine. The first thing I recommend is trying a few test panels using a totally different paint/clear. I have seen this before and the guy spent 2K on a new compressor when it turned out to be bad paint. Spray the clear without base coat onto a test panel and see what happens. Then spray the base you are using, let it flash off like usual and spray some single stage over the base and see what happens. I am sure you have some paint laying around for testing. In all my years I have had a handful of times I got bad paint. Mixed wrong, bad batch or sat in a 180 degree freight truck for weeks before it got delivered. It happens and can drive you nuts figuring out what we did wrong when it wasn't us at all. Best test for your system is to go back to the last thing you sprayed that worked and spray that again as a test. If that material works then it is not your system. Also consider switching form soap and water to a little ammonia and really warm water if you are concerned about contaminants. Ammonia breaks down wax really well. You clean way more than I do so in your test panels don't clean at all other than a quick wipe with wax and grease remover. I do like the alcohol and water wipe idea. Seen it done but never tried it. What concentration do you use?
@ after Covid I was getting 97 percent and using qt spray bottles fill 3/4 way up rest water. Now I’m using 87 percent with less water not real scientific I got the idea from Chris on Garage noise U Tube channel it helps control static , I also ground my stuff with a 8 gauge wires with alligator clips the wire is hooked to a 8’ ground rod. I’m really thinking the clear is my problem I’ve test sprayed so much stuff it just keeps happening! I have a few old doors one I DAed with 600 cleaned it same thing one a sanded based same thing. I’ve sprayed with my pro 88 , my Pro lite and my DV1 clear coat gun using 1.2, 1.3 different air caps no change. Back to the cleaning I use dish soap I. My water when wet sanding and go back over it with scotch pad and soap n water. Dry it then on spray day DuPont wax n grease followed by isopropyl n water just before spraying.
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication The body is pretty straight but unfortunately there is a lot of rust in the floor, trunk and rear quarters and probably other places that I cant see 😀. But its my dream car and doesn't look terrible as is. Watching your videos gives me inspiration!
@@michaelbrown3277 Common problems for cars of that era and convertibles especially since leaking tops let the water flow in and sit under the carpets. Convertibles can be tricky so be careful when you start cutting out floor pans. The body needs to be on a stable, straight and firm fixture or bad things can happen. It can be left on the frame but a good idea is to support the frame in 6 to 8 locations making sure it is perfectly straight and level before cutting out floor pans. A brace across the door opening is a smart move too. When do you see yourself getting started?
Nice work Mark. Thanks for explaining why things work the way they do. If there is a low spot in the filler and I have to add more do I have to sand the filler in the low spot before applying more filler? If so what grit? Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
Thanks and yes it is best to rough up the area to get a good mechanical and chemical bond. I would use a minimum 80 grit to rough it up. Just use your thumb with some sand paper and get it real good. Blow off really well and you are good to fill.
Thanks Mark I’ve just watched this video and subscribed to your channel thanks for sharing your how to techniques and ideas great instructional video I’m trying to finish the metal and body on my 1967 c10 Chevy it’s been a long project it’s time to get on to the final stages, thanks God Bless
I have found it isn't the block as much as the person using them. My buddies dad was a master car builder and would use a piece of redwood bender board with sandpaper glued to it and lightly drag it around on top of acorn riddled Chevy Coup/Sedan tops and those things would come out perfect! What blocks do you prefer?
Linear blocks. They make them for bodyfiller, and for leveling your clear coat. I couldn't believe the difference they make, and I've been doing it for 54 years
Rage Gold is very good product but you have to try Rage Ultra it spreads super easy and sands beter than Rage gold actualy it has adhesion to more materials than Rage Gold. The ultra is with eco resingn and is with some corrosion protectionadityves in it. Try it i' am sure you will like it. Great video, thanks for sharing your knolede with us.
I've always just filled the dents and then lay 3 full wet coats of 2k primer over the panel and it always blocks out super flat. I've tried to cover entire panels in body filler and it's just a huge hassle. The filler always gets nibs in it pin holes etc. I like to use body fill to get the deep stuff filled and then the 2k lays down flat and smooth and blocks out flat. I guess there's 2 ways to skin a cat. It's whatever works best for you.
You are absolutely right, there are several ways to do this type of work. Spreading a lot of filler is tough sometimes and I was more in your camp when I had a lot of trouble doing it. These days I am kind of in the middle by floating out, rough blocking and then primer to get me the rest of the way there. It is a time save for me and filler is way cheaper in the long run.
When you are spreading that skim coat of Evercoat Rage over the whole quarter panel, do you have any tips for how to get it on smooth and consistent without a lot of spreader/tool marks? I have been using Rage Ultra for a long time but it is a mess when I put it on -- very stringy so you end up with stuff falling off and all over the place and landing on panels that did not need it, and invariably the one area that really needed it has some gouge from the edge of the spreader and needs yet another coat. One other question: after you put down the powdered guide coat and sand the body line and there are some small low spots, to what extent do you completely sand off the guide coat before you apply more filler to those spots? I get into this situation and it becomes like chasing your tail.... Any thoughts would be most greatly appreciated. Thank you for making these videos!
A lot of great questions and much easier for me to show you than tell you. Since I have gotten so many questions on things I did not cover my next video will go over as many as I can think of. I appreciate you watching and asking really good questions and I will add them to my video for next Thursday.
There is video fron ever coat especyaly for rage ultra they recomend to scuff with 180 sandpaper by hand only the low spot and reapply rage ultra in the spot only. Usualy i do reaply adge to edge because i think is better one uniform layer than few spots because they sands a little diffrently and you can feel them whe touch with hand i feel this with the gold especialy. I use gold for filing and the ultra for final coat most of the time. If is minor spot for filing i use directly ultra. Regards
Evercoat has product called plastic honey it is resign for reducing the filler, or you can use Rage Ultra or metal glaze or easy sand they are thiner fillers for final coat.
Hey Alfonso, I am a hoarder what can I say 🤪 I cannot remember how long I have had that can but it has been a long while for sure. It sucks PCL got bought out and the line ruined but such is the business I guess. Thinking back I bet you are right! That can could be from 20 years ago....man I am old 😞
It's originally a home tool not an auto body tool so you can find it at most hardware stores. A google search for 24 inch paint shied or 24 inch trim guide should get headed down the right path.
@@brianprinzavalli7543 Hi Brian. Of course how hot it is at the time you do the work makes a big difference in how much time. The biggest thing I think that causes delays in outgassing and shrinking is being to anxious to spray primer over your body filler as you have now trapped any solvents that will take longer to escape. It's about 48 to 52 in my shop right now so I will not spray anything over the body filler until at least a week and parked it in the sun for several hours. I have plenty of work to do to keep me busy. In the summer 2 or 3 days with several hours in the sun. Like I said if it is thick it takes longer. The longer the better if you can swing it.
You would be surprised at how many body men don't know what your trying to tell them. Dark colors out in the sun will show up your shrinkage before the summers over.
Fluorescent lights really show defects like crazy too. When you repair or paint a car and never see it again you really don't learn anything about how your work holds up. I see a lot of my work all the time and many are friends. It has helped me become wiser and better for sure.
I appreciate that very generous comment. After all these years I guess I should be a little better than a novice and I learn something new all the time. Thanks again
Went tp buy that powder dry coat from oreilys,it was 98 dollars for that same container,ebay same cintainer 45 bucks,think in future will order materials.Prices are getting ridicoulous
A hundred bucks???? That is crazy. I just ordered some Duragold black dry guide coat off Amazon for 36 dollars so it is well worth it to shop around. It is worth the 40 bucks that is for sure.
Speaking of body filler over bare steel, when I stripped the "bonnet" (hood) on my $200 '78 Spitfire, which had been repainted 30+ years ago by a local body shop, I noticed that every spot they had filled with bondo was lightly rusted underneath. So I am firmly in the corner of bondo over epoxy primer. Good to know about the shrinkage I noticed that a front fender that I thought was ready for paint a few months ago now is showing sanding scratches that I need to block out again. 🫤 Did anybody see the cute bunny in the back of your qt panel after you were done blocking? 😊
Thanks. Hoods take a beating from being flat with water and debris sitting on them to all that heat from the engine. Have you ever used catalyzed glazing filler? It spreads like butter so you can lay it down really thin and it sands beautifully. It works great on sand scratches and minor low spots. I did not see the shape of a bunny, I will go back and check that out.
@FoothillPaintandFabrication back by where the bumper curves in. One of the trim holes serve as his eye. Yeah, the Spitfire sat outside for years uncovered.
Super nice job!!!! People just don't know how uneven panels are..... all of them. Getting them flat is an art.👍
@@Wrenchen-with-Darren Thanks Darren. So true, back in the sixties if the doors shut and stayed shut they rolled off the line. Then we come along and want them perfect.
@@FoothillPaintandFabricationsaludos desde Palenque Chiapas México
That video sure answered a lot of questions Mark! I’ve got two of those “pick end” hammers. I’ll grind one down to get the blunt end as you did. That was one of my many questions…..
“what if I have a high spot that, when blocked, gets me back to sheet metal?” You answered it.
I also appreciate the review of the various fillers etc. and best practices for their use. Obviously I’ll follow the manufacturer’s instructions, but seeing these things used “in the field” is super helpful.
I’m still working on Pop’s rear doors. Lots of damage over the decades. Getting the shape correct is difficult. All I can do is the best I can do.
@@robertmazzei2412 thanks Robert.
Don't be afraid of getting a little aggressive with the doors. Sometimes you have to get pretty heavy handed to get the doors where they need to be.
Great video, Mark. The steps taken show how to achieve show quality results. Keep up the great work!
Thanks Charlie. Lots more steps to go but I won't call it good until it is flawless...at least with my old eyes looking at it 😎
Its astonishing how much shrinkage there is with products they really need that cure time. Great video.
Very true. I saw a car I had done in my youth where I just filled molding holes with filler and you could see each and every spot, not super noticeable but I could see them. Newer products are more stable but do shrink and it doesn't take much to show up in super shiny paint.
Hey Mark, Im new to the body finishing part of my project and always find it informative learning about the different products and how to use them. Your car is looking really good and the care and attention you’re putting into it really shows. Thanks for the video and hope you enjoy the weekend!
Thanks Ray, I appreciate and hope you get something out of my videos. I am sure you will be able to a nice jobs once you get a little experience under your belt.
Yes sir so im doin a 66 Mustang coupe rear quarter panels and low spots are driving me nuts but this is just what i needed to get these panels str8.....you just saved me a head ache
@@superdragon9293 I am glad I was of some help to you. Good luck on your project!
Thank you for the attention to detail in your video. There is always a certain reason for certain things. I know why I have lines looking like cracks in my paint job. Thanks again.
Thanks Alonso. That sucks and unfortunately the only way to get rid of them is a total redo or ignore them if you can. I learned the hard way too so don't feel bad.
its interesting that there's so many channels teaching the hard way ,wrong and eventually getting there instead of the PROPER way , procedures and methods .
Good morning Mark, I do like your procedure. Great video information. Take care and Good luck. Have a great week.
Thanks Steve. Couple more gifts for Xmas and I am all done so it will be a great week just cruising to the 25th. Then I can focus on the GTO with no distractions.
Thanks for sharing all your experiences on your project. This should help me when I get to that stage eventually!
Thanks Doug. You will get there soon enough. It will be Spring before you know it.
Mark your the man! I have seen your work and it is top notch! 👌 I often wondered why scratches was show up later after the paint dried months later.
Thanks David. I learned the hard way over the years making mistakes and then seeing others mistakes. Most of the time I used the wrong product or the right product incorrectly.
you can put some lacquer thinner on a rag and wipe ur mud off after it sets up it will get rid of the sticky ness so it won't clog ur paper up
Thanks Mike. I thought I mentioned that in the video. I like knocking the tops off with the DA too. Saves me a little time and effort starting out.
I had some square body truck doors that gave me fit getting them perfect then I discovered the 36” wall paper tool now it part of my body work arsenal. It’s nice to see some real world project body work like so many of us weekend warriors do! I have a question do you know any methods for checking the quality of one’s air supply?? I’m having issues with clear coat cratering and it’s got me stopped dead in my tracks. Compressor is barely a year old I have it plumed into the shop with 1/2” pipe with a dedicated line for spraying which goes up and down the wall 4 times with drip legs and valves at the bottoms then into two water oils separators then a desiccant filter then a motor guard M60 all of my filters have 1/2” inlet and outlets. I keep a dedicated air hose and use 5/16” HF fittings. I use a Devilbiss DV 1 for clear. I clean with soap n water then DuPont wax and grease remover then isopropyl alcohol mixed with water I always apply with one towel and remove with a clean one. Others have said air supply but I’m having a hard time accepting that !
Hi Tim and thanks for watching and the comment. Hey any tool or device that gets the job done is a good tool in my book. Doesn't have to be some fancy thing these "professional" builders use as long as it gets it done.
Your air system is 10 times better than mine. The first thing I recommend is trying a few test panels using a totally different paint/clear. I have seen this before and the guy spent 2K on a new compressor when it turned out to be bad paint. Spray the clear without base coat onto a test panel and see what happens. Then spray the base you are using, let it flash off like usual and spray some single stage over the base and see what happens. I am sure you have some paint laying around for testing. In all my years I have had a handful of times I got bad paint. Mixed wrong, bad batch or sat in a 180 degree freight truck for weeks before it got delivered. It happens and can drive you nuts figuring out what we did wrong when it wasn't us at all.
Best test for your system is to go back to the last thing you sprayed that worked and spray that again as a test. If that material works then it is not your system. Also consider switching form soap and water to a little ammonia and really warm water if you are concerned about contaminants. Ammonia breaks down wax really well. You clean way more than I do so in your test panels don't clean at all other than a quick wipe with wax and grease remover. I do like the alcohol and water wipe idea. Seen it done but never tried it. What concentration do you use?
@ after Covid I was getting 97 percent and using qt spray bottles fill 3/4 way up rest water. Now I’m using 87 percent with less water not real scientific I got the idea from Chris on Garage noise U Tube channel it helps control static , I also ground my stuff with a 8 gauge wires with alligator clips the wire is hooked to a 8’ ground rod. I’m really thinking the clear is my problem I’ve test sprayed so much stuff it just keeps happening! I have a few old doors one I DAed with 600 cleaned it same thing one a sanded based same thing. I’ve sprayed with my pro 88 , my Pro lite and my DV1 clear coat gun using 1.2, 1.3 different air caps no change. Back to the cleaning I use dish soap I. My water when wet sanding and go back over it with scotch pad and soap n water. Dry it then on spray day DuPont wax n grease followed by isopropyl n water just before spraying.
@@timhudson8958 Thanks!
Great video and very informative. I have a 67 GTO convertible that will need a lot of body work someday so I enjoy your videos.
Thanks Michael. Do you have a lot of dents and dings or rust?
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication The body is pretty straight but unfortunately there is a lot of rust in the floor, trunk and rear quarters and probably other places that I cant see 😀. But its my dream car and doesn't look terrible as is. Watching your videos gives me inspiration!
@@michaelbrown3277 Common problems for cars of that era and convertibles especially since leaking tops let the water flow in and sit under the carpets. Convertibles can be tricky so be careful when you start cutting out floor pans. The body needs to be on a stable, straight and firm fixture or bad things can happen. It can be left on the frame but a good idea is to support the frame in 6 to 8 locations making sure it is perfectly straight and level before cutting out floor pans. A brace across the door opening is a smart move too. When do you see yourself getting started?
Nice work Mark. Thanks for explaining why things work the way they do. If there is a low spot in the filler and I have to add more do I have to sand the filler in the low spot before applying more filler? If so what grit? Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
Thanks and yes it is best to rough up the area to get a good mechanical and chemical bond. I would use a minimum 80 grit to rough it up. Just use your thumb with some sand paper and get it real good. Blow off really well and you are good to fill.
@@FoothillPaintandFabrication Thanks.
Thanks Mark I’ve just watched this video and subscribed to your channel thanks for sharing your how to techniques and ideas great instructional video I’m trying to finish the metal and body on my 1967 c10 Chevy it’s been a long project it’s time to get on to the final stages, thanks God Bless
Thanks Dennis and welcome to the channel. Yeah staying motivated is the hardest part of these projects, especially in the winter. Hang in there...
Bodywork is not my thing but I enjoy watching your videos. Look forward to the next one.
Thanks Tim. It is an acquired taste I guess. Frustrating and satisfying all at the same time.
Couple of things that will help you is using a different brand of sanding blocks, but always use guide coat when blocking
I have found it isn't the block as much as the person using them. My buddies dad was a master car builder and would use a piece of redwood bender board with sandpaper glued to it and lightly drag it around on top of acorn riddled Chevy Coup/Sedan tops and those things would come out perfect!
What blocks do you prefer?
Linear blocks. They make them for bodyfiller, and for leveling your clear coat. I couldn't believe the difference they make, and I've been doing it for 54 years
@@RS-gh2mf I have seen them. Look to be way over priced for what they are. Are you talking about the rigid type or flex type?
They are all flexible for bodyfiller or wet sanding. Nothing is to expensive for perfection in my book.
@@RS-gh2mf Compared to the price of the clear I use they are a bargain!
Thanks again
Rage Gold is very good product but you have to try Rage Ultra it spreads super easy and sands beter than Rage gold actualy it has adhesion to more materials than Rage Gold. The ultra is with eco resingn and is with some corrosion protectionadityves in it. Try it i' am sure you will like it. Great video, thanks for sharing your knolede with us.
I will take a look, thanks for the information. I have read the spec sheets on both but I don't recall the Ultra, I will re-read it for sure.
Always fun to watch the expert! I tried doing the bodywork on my 66 Goat but its not for me. 😊
Thanks. I struggled when I first started all those years ago but it has gotten a little easier over the years. I still learn new stuff all the time.
I've always just filled the dents and then lay 3 full wet coats of 2k primer over the panel and it always blocks out super flat. I've tried to cover entire panels in body filler and it's just a huge hassle. The filler always gets nibs in it pin holes etc. I like to use body fill to get the deep stuff filled and then the 2k lays down flat and smooth and blocks out flat. I guess there's 2 ways to skin a cat. It's whatever works best for you.
You are absolutely right, there are several ways to do this type of work. Spreading a lot of filler is tough sometimes and I was more in your camp when I had a lot of trouble doing it. These days I am kind of in the middle by floating out, rough blocking and then primer to get me the rest of the way there. It is a time save for me and filler is way cheaper in the long run.
When you are spreading that skim coat of Evercoat Rage over the whole quarter panel, do you have any tips for how to get it on smooth and consistent without a lot of spreader/tool marks? I have been using Rage Ultra for a long time but it is a mess when I put it on -- very stringy so you end up with stuff falling off and all over the place and landing on panels that did not need it, and invariably the one area that really needed it has some gouge from the edge of the spreader and needs yet another coat.
One other question: after you put down the powdered guide coat and sand the body line and there are some small low spots, to what extent do you completely sand off the guide coat before you apply more filler to those spots? I get into this situation and it becomes like chasing your tail....
Any thoughts would be most greatly appreciated. Thank you for making these videos!
A lot of great questions and much easier for me to show you than tell you. Since I have gotten so many questions on things I did not cover my next video will go over as many as I can think of.
I appreciate you watching and asking really good questions and I will add them to my video for next Thursday.
There is video fron ever coat especyaly for rage ultra they recomend to scuff with 180 sandpaper by hand only the low spot and reapply rage ultra in the spot only. Usualy i do reaply adge to edge because i think is better one uniform layer than few spots because they sands a little diffrently and you can feel them whe touch with hand i feel this with the gold especialy. I use gold for filing and the ultra for final coat most of the time. If is minor spot for filing i use directly ultra. Regards
Evercoat has product called plastic honey it is resign for reducing the filler, or you can use Rage Ultra or metal glaze or easy sand they are thiner fillers for final coat.
@@boyanbyankow5192 Thanks for your tips. I appreciate the comment.
I haven't seen a can of PCL Speedcoat in a long time. Over 20 years
Hey Alfonso,
I am a hoarder what can I say 🤪 I cannot remember how long I have had that can but it has been a long while for sure. It sucks PCL got bought out and the line ruined but such is the business I guess. Thinking back I bet you are right! That can could be from 20 years ago....man I am old 😞
That large spreader you use is great, where/what are they used please?
It's originally a home tool not an auto body tool so you can find it at most hardware stores. A google search for 24 inch paint shied or 24 inch trim guide should get headed down the right path.
Hi Chris,
Here is a link to one on Amazon a.co/d/bcCGPr9
Wallpaper trim guide
Sweet deal at 17 bucks
how long, under normal circumstances , should I wait for materials to shrink?
@@brianprinzavalli7543 Hi Brian. Of course how hot it is at the time you do the work makes a big difference in how much time. The biggest thing I think that causes delays in outgassing and shrinking is being to anxious to spray primer over your body filler as you have now trapped any solvents that will take longer to escape. It's about 48 to 52 in my shop right now so I will not spray anything over the body filler until at least a week and parked it in the sun for several hours. I have plenty of work to do to keep me busy. In the summer 2 or 3 days with several hours in the sun. Like I said if it is thick it takes longer. The longer the better if you can swing it.
You would be surprised at how many body men don't know what your trying to tell them. Dark colors out in the sun will show up your shrinkage before the summers over.
Fluorescent lights really show defects like crazy too. When you repair or paint a car and never see it again you really don't learn anything about how your work holds up. I see a lot of my work all the time and many are friends. It has helped me become wiser and better for sure.
Artist
I appreciate that very generous comment. After all these years I guess I should be a little better than a novice and I learn something new all the time.
Thanks again
Went tp buy that powder dry coat from oreilys,it was 98 dollars for that same container,ebay same cintainer 45 bucks,think in future will order materials.Prices are getting ridicoulous
A hundred bucks???? That is crazy. I just ordered some Duragold black dry guide coat off Amazon for 36 dollars so it is well worth it to shop around. It is worth the 40 bucks that is for sure.
Speaking of body filler over bare steel, when I stripped the "bonnet" (hood) on my $200 '78 Spitfire, which had been repainted 30+ years ago by a local body shop, I noticed that every spot they had filled with bondo was lightly rusted underneath. So I am firmly in the corner of bondo over epoxy primer.
Good to know about the shrinkage I noticed that a front fender that I thought was ready for paint a few months ago now is showing sanding scratches that I need to block out again. 🫤
Did anybody see the cute bunny in the back of your qt panel after you were done blocking? 😊
Thanks. Hoods take a beating from being flat with water and debris sitting on them to all that heat from the engine. Have you ever used catalyzed glazing filler? It spreads like butter so you can lay it down really thin and it sands beautifully. It works great on sand scratches and minor low spots.
I did not see the shape of a bunny, I will go back and check that out.
@FoothillPaintandFabrication back by where the bumper curves in. One of the trim holes serve as his eye.
Yeah, the Spitfire sat outside for years uncovered.
@@BusyAsABeaver72 Found it! 🐇