Hi robert, my name is Glenn, I'm a 38-year collision shop veteran and in my area the preferred method is a belt sander. I bought a $1.50 or $2 per belt and they last quite a long time and do minimal or no damage to underlying panels. ps. I'm a teacher in a tech school and this is the method I teach. Try it out.
Thanks for the imput, but we are in different worlds.... you have 8 hrs and a material budget paid by the state.... not being negative.... but material costs and time are always a business owners enemy.... I picked up this method in the collision industry. If performed correctly, rarely is the parent metal damaged. Thanks
@@guzzifabrication3448 My pro bodyshop friends turned me on to mini belt sanders too. They work really well when the two pieces are close in thickness and strength and you really don't want to distort the piece remaining. A common issue on modern cars, not so much the vintage ones. If you ever try one of the new 118Max, 123Max, etc air hammers you might never pick that old Ingersoll again. IF you want to try something new.
@@guzzifabrication3448 agreed. I have a mini belt sander. Its great, but the cost quickly piles up. I use a similar method to you. Its quick and cost effective
Try a stone dremel end bits or dremel sanding barrels.. But the real key is to import your own sanding belts rather than let someone else import them for you. The dremel(clone) sanding barrels are a very fast and easy way to grind off stuck screw ends, rivets(if you cant get a drill in) etc too and they cost basically nothing in bulk, super controllable and little risk or collateral damage and do eat metal a lot faster than you would first think.
Yep, that's the way it's been done in shops for decades. In my shop a panel cutter only comes out a couple times a year. On panels where the parent metal and the piece you're removing are the same thickness, this video featured a 18-16 gauge cross member and a 20-22 gauge floor pan...something's going to be destroyed , usually the part you needed to save, (especially pinch welds) . My process starts by finger scuffing the area with 80 grit, to highlight the weld puddles, then with a 1/4" or 3/8" belt sander worry away the metal from the weld, usually in under 10 seconds. 9 times out of 10, I can simply lift the freed part with no hammering. On the occasions where welds are not totally freed, a Lisle panel splitter* with a light tap from a ball peen hammer will split it free. To save some time, I will take the throw away piece, overlay it on my replacement panel, rattle can a contrasting color where the welds were, and either drill or punch 10mm holes for plugs in the same areas or jog slightly to a new area. Give this method a try, I bet you'll wish you had been doing it this way all along. Carry on, we're all in this together. *51900 Spot Weld Chisel
Yes the belt sander is King now at the bodyshop. 16 inch long and 1/2 wide . 80 grit 3m brand works the best for us. They last surprisingly long and no sparks. If its rusty i torch then wire wheel the panel to find the spot welds. Thanks for the video
Yessir..... as soon as they came out with those belt sanders I picked one up... after scuffing up the metal or wire wheeling the area to find the center of the weld that's what I did and dang glad I bought it. I do use a chisel when I need to but mainly the belt sander ... both work and it's which ever method you perfer.. doing it over and over you can get efficient at either one.... and we all know in a shop, time is $$
I've been using this technique for 40 years. In fact, when I was a kid, I used a hatchet and a ball pein hammer! The only downside is the destruction of the panel that is being removed. I drill out the fusion welds when removing a panel that will be put back on. It is no fun, that's for sure!
Wow I tried many different methods also and the air hammer was the best way to go. Did floor repairs on my Jeep Cherokee and a lot of the spot welds were about 2 inches apart.
I can generally gauge the professionalism of a person by how tidy their workplace is. Here we have an example of a true professional, by the quiet, methodical way the process is explained with alternatives explored, after which a demonstration precisely how to do panel removal the most efficient way and prep ready for the next stage. After the job is done, the tools are cleaned and returned and mess is cleaned up. Top job beautifully explained, with a superb demonstration.
Wow.... I will do my best to live up to that comment everyday ! Thank you Sir, shop appearance is a direct reflection of the quality work being performed... That you would take the time to comment, you are much appreciated ! Robert Guzzi
you cant go by a nice and tidy shop all the time, yeah its great for 1 guy on 1 car for 6 months to have a clean shop, but imagine working on 10-20 cars a week, Of course you are gonna have parts laying around etc.. a production shop would never be this clean all the time. but if you rather 1 guy spend 6 months to a year on your car be my guest.. or you want it done in a couple weeks? and also the air hammer is not the best way unless you want to trash every panel you take off, i can drill spot welds and not go all the way through easily, and the real best is the belt sander, this air hammer trick dont do shit to 1/8 inch hardened steel panels only the outer beer can stuff anyway..
@@turboimport95 Hello Nancy ! I don't know what your trying to say, I think your a nay sayer always looking for the negative or maybe jealous .... I'm I-Car certified... just because your an unprofessional dirty slob doesn't mean everyone is.... your probably doing car lot collision work so I understand to low quality mentality, maybe someday you'll take some pride in your work and it will be reflected when you finally learn to pick up your tools and after yourself. Thanks for the comment low class @$$ Nancy.
@@guzzifabrication3448 Im not a unprofessional dirty slob, im actually got a few years, but i can tell you this, we have a icar certified older guy at the shop who has 30 years exp over me and i run circle around him in repair cars. I do on average 15+ more cars per week then he does.. Matter of fact i have also engine swapped cars out in the parking lot.. I-car guys really aint shit in reality. Im not negative, I dont get paid to work on 1 car in 6 months, And the guy we got takes that long sometimes and i have to carry his slacking I-car certified 30 years exp ass. So i dont want to hear any shit.
Back in 76' I was leaving a convenience store in my 69' Chevelle SS... slid the vertical gate shifter into first... revved the 427 to 3400... and dumped the clutch.... like a hundred times before. The 4:88 Moroso BRUTE strength posi hooked the Mickey N50's up solid ... the right rear wheel studs ( new 1/2" ) SNAPPED like stick matches.... and the tire and wheel took out that right rear quarter panel. Are we havin' fun yet??? So off to the shop to use the air hammer and the 12 to 1 beveled bit.... and did exactly as you showed above +/-.... THAT WAS 48 YEARS AGO... and we still do it like that today. If it works fast and efficient, and the parent metal you need can survive it unscathed, with minimal prep... why do something else ( barring restricted access for more serious tools... ) Nice video my friend, can't wait to see the Mopar done! Respectfully, Seth
Thank you Robert. A couple comments - that technique really works great for separating floor pans from structural components! You might want to mention that separating thinner gage panels from one another can be a little trickier if you're trying to save one or both panels. Great content as usual. Thanks!
I'll second that. That's where I'm having the most trouble so far. Trunk floor off the frame rails went fast and smooth. Trying to not pop holes in my tail panel is holding me up. I already have a couple I need to weld back up. Also, thanks for the video, and for the Matco bit info, Robert. I'll try to catch the Matco man next week. Every other bit I've found so far is on the thick side, and that may be most of my issue when using the air hammer.
@@exquisitenonsense3987 Mini belt sanders are the go-to tools for such spot welds on thin sheet metal in body shops that work on modern vehicles. They work great on old stuff too.
Very smart! I use a combination of flap discs and using a punch and chisel with a mini sledge, but if I am near air I’ll try this!! Drilling certainly eats up bits and it can be difficult unless you have a right angle drill to access some parts…
I'm a amature body man, but i ge nerally use spot weld cutters and only go thru one layer of metal, so the only clean up is the raised part of the weld itself. Only by mistake i cut thru to make a straight thru hole. In all the air hammer is most likely faster. Great video.
The Old School Method is alive and well. This is how I was taught in the mid 1970's. In fact, that was the only way to do it back then. We never bothered with the ne tools because this works so well. Nice to see it still being used.
You did say that you do run into situations that cutting or drilling is necessary, and circumstancle. This method was fun to watch. Thanks for sharing your wisdom.
I was in colision repair for 20 years. I was primarily a painter who would fill in on bodywork when needed. This is how I did it as well. I had lots of critics, but my work was much faster and cleaner than any of the full-time body guys. I could do a bed side, or 1/4 panel and have it to paint in a couple hours. $$$$!
it works aslong as one metal is thinner than other and you don't mind damaging thinner metal.. so good for such bracket and sheet metal spots. but if you have just two sheet metal welded together then it can damage the other panel. especially if you're changing the panel because of rusting. in that case the other panel might be slightly rusted which has weakened it. so at minimum you are gonna bend it i removed one panel from one bracket so i could install it into other car and only way was to drill. but for removing panel from thicker metal without minding damaging the panel is absolutely perfect. amazing trick.
Yep. Used this method as well as the manual seam buster in the same manner. I also found a clean way for the areas that cannot be rolled up out of the way for easy "busting" is a 1/2" to 3/4" drill and just drill the discard side and do no damage to the save side. Its quick and does not wear out the bit every 5 or 10 spot welds. Ive done 10-15 jobs on one bit. Cant do tight areas, but nothing does everything 😮 ❤❤
I like it. Good idea. As you mention, possibly limited....thinking of situations where you need to save the other panel for templating or rebuild. But this is a great additional strategy. And it doesn't gouge the other piece. Just great. Thank you.
I'm a Auto Body and Frame man been doing it for 48 years now I just use my cut off tool whenever I can use it with the grinding stone and a old Mac gasket scraper that way it does not destroy any panel at all especially when you are removing a quarter panel from a wheel well but I use it everywhere basically just tap it with the hammer and if it doesn't come loose I just get the gasket scraper give it a tap it pops right loose. Especially if someone a DYI a cut off tool which they probably already have and a grinding stone will last them forever and a day and if they don't have a gasket scraper the relatively cheap or just use an old stiff putty knife and with the belt sander they will have to buy the tool and the belts which get costly. If I run into a place that I can't use my cut off tool I just use a drill bit and drill through do the panel I'm replacing and the gasket scraper and it works great but when I do some Chryslers like you said they have some big spot welds I have a half inch drill bit that I made up years ago that only cuts through one panel and it was great and after working 10 years in a Chrysler dealership it more than paid for itself LOL. Don't get me wrong I have two Snap-on air chisels short barrel and long barrel and I've used them a lot maybe that's why my hair is so bad now LOL. Please do yourself a favor if you're going to use an air chisel by the best hearing protection you can if not if you buy a cheap set rubber plugs and put them in your ear first then use your cheap earmuffs save your hearing you only get it once and you don't want to have that ringing in your ears 24/7 it will drive you nuts.
Never heard of a plug weld until recently. Back during my working days we did not drill holes to plug with weld. We just struck the arc where we wanted to weld using a small rod then pushed the rod through the weld puddle and then draw it back out. The puddle would follow the arc and close up making a nice smooth weld. At the time we referred to the process as rivet welding.
SPOT ON! Thanks for sharing, have been doing the same as you for years and it Works! Great thing to share with so many that never knew! Not to mention the cost savings doing this method.Thanks
Keeping it simple works! Have watched many with their procedures an high tech new ideas however back many years ago, only had pneumatic tool and made adaptors! Great Channel will recommend you!
Belt sander on the top of the spot welds is the way to go Batter operated Milwaukee belt sander works awesome especially if you have a couple batteries love mine
I have to say, that is pretty slick and a considerable time saver. Not to mention all the sharp edges to cut your hands and fingers on and crawling around in the metal chips from drilling. Plus, if you don't know how to sharpen drill bits you can go through a lot of them. To be honest, I really was not expecting much when I read the title, but I am impressed.
I tried this method after watching some of your impala videos when I had to take the inner structure out of the hood on my 61 Oldsmobile. Without question, the most efficient way to remove spot welds. The other bonus to this is that your not putting a huge hole in the panels if you're trying to reuse it. When I did it, I needed to remove the structure to access the panel behind it with a dolly to fix some collision damage. But then I had to put the structure back in. If I drilled out or cut out all of those spot welds, there would have been a huge hole to patch. But with this method, the spot welded lip can be massaged back into shape and plug welded back together.
Yes, nice method when you have a such strong counterpart. I have to work on that thing sheets of modern cars. Grinding them out with a finger belt or small grinding disc is there often the only solution.
Nicely done and explained I'm a do it yourself guy. I was a mechanic for 30 plus years. Some day I want to begin work on my 1984 T-roof Z/28. That's been sitting now for to long. I'm now subscribed to your channel and looking for to future videos. Sincerely CWO Shook US Army Retired
I once took apart a complete AMC hornet station wagon using spot weld cutters , being a unibody constructed car you can imagine how many there were. It took several afternoons after getting off work to do it and several cheap spot weld cutters. Doing it the way I did makes all the sheet metal parts reusable but takes forever.
Good morning Robert, thank you for some more valuable tech information. Always worth the time to be educated. Great experience and expertise. Thank you and take care and good luck.
Finally subscribed! This is great content Robert. There's always another "right way" to do things.... great that you're showing options without claiming everyone else is wrong!! Thanks for this, Kevin Tetz. Paintucation.
I wish I had seen this about 2 weeks ago. I even wondered to myself while drilling holes, "I wonder if an air hammer would work" but decided it would mangle the heck out of the good metal. I'll use this trick next time for sure.
I have 45 years of heavy collision work that is exactly the way I did my spot Wells with the air hammer and a flat bit. Good job easier and faster. 🙏🇺🇸
Air hammer works well as demonstrated but when the two panels are the same thickness then there is no telling how they will separate. Often damage will incur on the panel you wish to save. Still a good method over all. 👍
I'm a mechanic, I've worked in panel shops as the mechanic. I've seen most guys use either a proper spot weld drill, it looks like an end mill. Or the belt sander. I have done some panel work my self, and with a nice sharp spot weld drill you can lift panels leaving no holes on the metal you want to keep.
It gives so much confidence and motivation, thank you Robert. By the way, really impressive and clean workshop. Would like to work there. Greetings from Austria
I enjoyed this! Clear and concise explanation and a great demonstration. I even expected you to only demo one of the 3 grinders suggested, but loved the fact you showed using all 3! I’ve used all sorts and didn’t NEED to see it, but I really appreciate how thorough you were, yet you didn’t beat any dead horses either. I’m betting you cover panel cutters and flat spot drills in other videos, which I’m about to flip through and subscribe, but it would’ve been nice to see here. Kinda cringe at the thought of people drilling a bunch of holes through good panels and supports with regular twist drills. It’s not like it can’t be resolved, but I’d much prefer a spot drills minimal damage if I couldn’t use your method here for some reason. I’d like to see a video on panel to panel corrosion prevention methods. Ive used zinc spray before. How concerned should we actually be in most cases? I like por15, but are you able to resistance weld through it without problem? I’m a mechanic. Body stuff is just hobby for me.
Thanks !! I'm up to video #205, check through my playlist for subjects your interested in. Thanks for subscribing !! I have a video in the works on corrosion protection. Yes you can resistance weld through POR 15 if its really thin, I usually apply a copper weld through primer.
I can say that looks like it works pretty well. I would also like to say what does that run in decibel’s about 140. Air hammers have their uses but, i hate them and do that in you garage at home so will your neighbors.
Nice work Robert. I like this procedure. Bondobilly does something very similar. I like how you are leaving the metal underneath intact. Thanks for sharing. I am already subscribed to your channel. Have a great weekend. 👍
Just ran across your channel and subscribed. You are ‘literally’ building this car from almost nothing. This will be quite a chore. I look forward to updated videos of this project as you move forward. Phillip Hall
I agree this works great. however I need to save the part I take off. I removed a floor pan seat riser to instal the floor pans. I needed to reinstall the seat riser. i also have to remover the front upper cowl by the windshield to repair holes underneath then reinstall the upper cowl. so any parts not needed this method works great.
I work at a collisions repair center ,i do prep ,but the technicians all use a mini belt sander to remove all panels ,but these are all new cars ,metal is very thin ,not like the older cars
Nice vid, but I'll stick with my method of 1/8" bit to center the spot weld (not drilling all the way through), then larger bit say 7/16" to drill out about 75% of the weld. Leaves it weakened enough that the panels separate with ease, not ripping apart the panel you want to save.
Your method looks good to remove the floor from the crossmember. The cross member looked good in this car. What do you do at the point where the floor is spot welded to the firewall. The gauge of metal is the same and the firewall is probably still good. I think a spot weld cutter is the way to go?
Great video.. Im gonna put heavy Emphasis on the Tip he used with the Air Hammer Pay close attention to that same style and Shape if not you will cut into or Blast the part you dont want to. (I learned the hard way...)
The way I have been doing it since the 70s most of the time metal has rusted thinner and metal separates with little effort with the sarden can method meaning you just roll the metal back and forth at the weld.
There is a place for this, there is also a place to drill them out. I don't use spot weld cutters because you have to drill a pilot hole to keep them centered. I use Irwin TurboTax drill bits with a flat point. Easily drill through one layer without damaging the lower layer.
Im the welder/panel replacement guy for a couple of higher end restoration shops. Heres what i do, i pre drill each spot on thin stuff with a double end 1/8 inch bit. Then i follow up with the 1/8-1/2 step bit, and it pops right apart, with minimal hammer work. Then i just weld the hole up with the new panel in. On stuff like a mustang floor to inner rocker, inner rocker being a heavy piece of metal, i use like a 5/16 drill bit instead of the step bit, not going all the way through the thicker piece. Cornwell bits over 1/4 are guaranteed for life against breakage, so when its dull, i put it in the vise and break it with a hammer. That 1/8 hole in the thicker metal gives me a better weld penetration when welding thin to thick. If you want to weld a bigger hole up without a bunch of burn through and it being a pain, i take a scrap piece of copper pipe, flatten the end, and fold it over, hammer it flat. Small weld bursts wont adhere to the copper pipe but dont go crazy. If i go through the edge of a panel drilling and welding, i weld it up, stick a piece of masking tape on for a straight enough line, and dress it with a die grinder with a 'barrel' carbide burr. Makes the weld that puddled past the edge straight and looks clean. I do use an air chisel on heavy gauge to heavy gauge in places that arent practical to drill. Ive never bought a rotabroach or a belt sander. On the super fancy cars, i grind it all smooth and use a pin punch of the correct size between my mig welds and just leave enough of a dimple to simulate a spot weld. Thats my two cents, and we are finishing a $40,000 body and paint job on a frame off bronco restoration this week. I also just finished a very nice (now) Mercedes 190 sl that got a ton of metal replacement, all the floors, outer frame rails, full nose replacement, and alot of section repairs.
Your method works well when removing a thinner gauge from a thicker gauge but where there are the same gauge material, and one has to be reused it seems to destroy both pieces. I'm restoring a 1964 VW crew cab truck for a friend now. A lot of old imports are paper thin were not rusted and powering thru them with an air gun just rips everything apart. I agree with you on the torsion bar support member you showed is beefy enough to just cut the tin off and clean it up with a sander
European cars are out for this method for sure, I'm posting a video tomorrow on the techniques that must be used for separating thin gauge from thin gauge. Check it out, this method comes out of the collision industry, I use this method exclusively on every panel of a vehicle, no problem. Thanks
I prefer the cutters, as its somthing I can turn the.kids loose with, and not too much chance of extreme damage to the "keeper" panel. Certainly never use just a drill bit, because the "extra" holes are just more work to fix. But, a combo of cutter and chisel- having and using both, is best!👍👍
Hi robert, my name is Glenn, I'm a 38-year collision shop veteran and in my area the preferred method is a belt sander. I bought a $1.50 or $2 per belt and they last quite a long time and do minimal or no damage to underlying panels. ps. I'm a teacher in a tech school and this is the method I teach. Try it out.
Can you suggest any particular tool for the belt sander? I'm looking to take out some spot welds on inner/outer rockers on an older Ford Truck.
Thanks for the imput, but we are in different worlds.... you have 8 hrs and a material budget paid by the state.... not being negative.... but material costs and time are always a business owners enemy.... I picked up this method in the collision industry. If performed correctly, rarely is the parent metal damaged. Thanks
@@guzzifabrication3448 My pro bodyshop friends turned me on to mini belt sanders too. They work really well when the two pieces are close in thickness and strength and you really don't want to distort the piece remaining. A common issue on modern cars, not so much the vintage ones.
If you ever try one of the new 118Max, 123Max, etc air hammers you might never pick that old Ingersoll again. IF you want to try something new.
@@guzzifabrication3448 agreed. I have a mini belt sander. Its great, but the cost quickly piles up. I use a similar method to you. Its quick and cost effective
Try a stone dremel end bits or dremel sanding barrels.. But the real key is to import your own sanding belts rather than let someone else import them for you.
The dremel(clone) sanding barrels are a very fast and easy way to grind off stuck screw ends, rivets(if you cant get a drill in) etc too and they cost basically nothing in bulk, super controllable and little risk or collateral damage and do eat metal a lot faster than you would first think.
Yep, that's the way it's been done in shops for decades. In my shop a panel cutter only comes out a couple times a year.
On panels where the parent metal and the piece you're removing are the same thickness, this video featured a 18-16 gauge cross member and a 20-22 gauge floor pan...something's going to be destroyed , usually the part you needed to save, (especially pinch welds) .
My process starts by finger scuffing the area with 80 grit, to highlight the weld puddles, then with a 1/4" or 3/8" belt sander worry away the metal from the weld, usually in under 10 seconds. 9 times out of 10, I can simply lift the freed part with no hammering. On the occasions where welds are not totally freed, a Lisle panel splitter* with a light tap from a ball peen hammer will split it free.
To save some time, I will take the throw away piece, overlay it on my replacement panel, rattle can a contrasting color where the welds were, and either drill or punch 10mm holes for plugs in the same areas or jog slightly to a new area.
Give this method a try, I bet you'll wish you had been doing it this way all along.
Carry on, we're all in this together.
*51900 Spot Weld Chisel
You should make a video.
Yes the belt sander is King now at the bodyshop. 16 inch long and 1/2 wide . 80 grit 3m brand works the best for us. They last surprisingly long and no sparks. If its rusty i torch then wire wheel the panel to find the spot welds. Thanks for the video
@@shawnedwards2097 Yes Sir !
@@shawnedwards2097 I actually have 4 pneumatic belt sanders, biggest is 3/4" by 16"
Thanks for backing me up.
Yessir..... as soon as they came out with those belt sanders I picked one up... after scuffing up the metal or wire wheeling the area to find the center of the weld that's what I did and dang glad I bought it. I do use a chisel when I need to but mainly the belt sander ... both work and it's which ever method you perfer.. doing it over and over you can get efficient at either one.... and we all know in a shop, time is $$
I've been using this technique for 40 years. In fact, when I was a kid, I used a hatchet and a ball pein hammer! The only downside is the destruction of the panel that is being removed. I drill out the fusion welds when removing a panel that will be put back on. It is no fun, that's for sure!
@@MoparArtbyautomolove 👍
Wow I tried many different methods also and the air hammer was the best way to go. Did floor repairs on my Jeep Cherokee and a lot of the spot welds were about 2 inches apart.
Awesome !! thanks for the comment !
I can generally gauge the professionalism of a person by how tidy their workplace is. Here we have an example of a true professional, by the quiet, methodical way the process is explained with alternatives explored, after which a demonstration precisely how to do panel removal the most efficient way and prep ready for the next stage. After the job is done, the tools are cleaned and returned and mess is cleaned up. Top job beautifully explained, with a superb demonstration.
Wow.... I will do my best to live up to that comment everyday ! Thank you Sir, shop appearance is a direct reflection of the quality work being performed... That you would take the time to comment, you are much appreciated ! Robert Guzzi
True gentleman,easy to see that.nice work.
you cant go by a nice and tidy shop all the time, yeah its great for 1 guy on 1 car for 6 months to have a clean shop, but imagine working on 10-20 cars a week, Of course you are gonna have parts laying around etc.. a production shop would never be this clean all the time. but if you rather 1 guy spend 6 months to a year on your car be my guest.. or you want it done in a couple weeks? and also the air hammer is not the best way unless you want to trash every panel you take off, i can drill spot welds and not go all the way through easily, and the real best is the belt sander, this air hammer trick dont do shit to 1/8 inch hardened steel panels only the outer beer can stuff anyway..
@@turboimport95 Hello Nancy ! I don't know what your trying to say, I think your a nay sayer always looking for the negative or maybe jealous .... I'm I-Car certified... just because your an unprofessional dirty slob doesn't mean everyone is.... your probably doing car lot collision work so I understand to low quality mentality, maybe someday you'll take some pride in your work and it will be reflected when you finally learn to pick up your tools and after yourself. Thanks for the comment low class @$$ Nancy.
@@guzzifabrication3448 Im not a unprofessional dirty slob, im actually got a few years, but i can tell you this, we have a icar certified older guy at the shop who has 30 years exp over me and i run circle around him in repair cars. I do on average 15+ more cars per week then he does.. Matter of fact i have also engine swapped cars out in the parking lot.. I-car guys really aint shit in reality. Im not negative, I dont get paid to work on 1 car in 6 months, And the guy we got takes that long sometimes and i have to carry his slacking I-car certified 30 years exp ass. So i dont want to hear any shit.
Back in 76' I was leaving a convenience store in my 69' Chevelle SS... slid the vertical gate shifter into first... revved the 427 to 3400... and dumped the clutch.... like a hundred times before. The 4:88 Moroso BRUTE strength posi hooked the Mickey N50's up solid ... the right rear wheel studs ( new 1/2" ) SNAPPED like stick matches.... and the tire and wheel took out that right rear quarter panel.
Are we havin' fun yet???
So off to the shop to use the air hammer and the 12 to 1 beveled bit.... and did exactly as you showed above +/-....
THAT WAS 48 YEARS AGO...
and we still do it like that today. If it works fast and efficient, and the parent metal you need can survive it unscathed, with minimal prep... why do something else
( barring restricted access for more serious tools... ) Nice video my friend, can't wait to see the Mopar done!
Respectfully, Seth
Rectangle port heads... I haven't seen a 427 in sooooo long...... Like you said get sh@# DONE !!! really appreciate the story and comment !
Thank you Robert. A couple comments - that technique really works great for separating floor pans from structural components! You might want to mention that separating thinner gage panels from one another can be a little trickier if you're trying to save one or both panels. Great content as usual. Thanks!
Thanks ! I may do a follow up video.
I'll second that. That's where I'm having the most trouble so far. Trunk floor off the frame rails went fast and smooth. Trying to not pop holes in my tail panel is holding me up. I already have a couple I need to weld back up.
Also, thanks for the video, and for the Matco bit info, Robert. I'll try to catch the Matco man next week. Every other bit I've found so far is on the thick side, and that may be most of my issue when using the air hammer.
@@exquisitenonsense3987 The follow up video is in the works ! it takes a little finesse and practice but it is very doable.
@@exquisitenonsense3987 Mini belt sanders are the go-to tools for such spot welds on thin sheet metal in body shops that work on modern vehicles. They work great on old stuff too.
@benhammon4515 I have one. It works great, but I have a few areas it doesn't fit. Thanks for the suggestion, though!
Very smart! I use a combination of flap discs and using a punch and chisel with a mini sledge, but if I am near air I’ll try this!! Drilling certainly eats up bits and it can be difficult unless you have a right angle drill to access some parts…
I really appreciate the comment and the info !!
Well worth the watch. I'm not a professional - just a hobby now and again. Thanks for that.
Thanks ! just another tool/method for your tool box.
I'm a amature body man, but i ge nerally use spot weld cutters and only go thru one layer of metal, so the only clean up is the raised part of the weld itself. Only by mistake i cut thru to make a straight thru hole. In all the air hammer is most likely faster. Great video.
Thanks for the comment !
The Old School Method is alive and well. This is how I was taught in the mid 1970's. In fact, that was the only way to do it back then. We never bothered with the ne tools because this works so well. Nice to see it still being used.
KaaaBoooM ! Thank you Sir ! just passing this method on.
I agree with your method. I blew through a lot of expensive spot weld bits on my '66. Good video, thank you.
It starts adding up... prices now are just runaway....
You did say that you do run into situations that cutting or drilling is necessary, and circumstancle. This method was fun to watch. Thanks for sharing your wisdom.
Yes, there are times when drilling is necessary. Thanks !
I was in colision repair for 20 years. I was primarily a painter who would fill in on bodywork when needed. This is how I did it as well. I had lots of critics, but my work was much faster and cleaner than any of the full-time body guys. I could do a bed side, or 1/4 panel and have it to paint in a couple hours. $$$$!
@@neilt5407 KaaaBoooom !!! That's what I'm talking about, speed. Thanks for the comment !
it works aslong as one metal is thinner than other and you don't mind damaging thinner metal.. so good for such bracket and sheet metal spots. but if you have just two sheet metal welded together then it can damage the other panel. especially if you're changing the panel because of rusting. in that case the other panel might be slightly rusted which has weakened it. so at minimum you are gonna bend it
i removed one panel from one bracket so i could install it into other car and only way was to drill.
but for removing panel from thicker metal without minding damaging the panel is absolutely perfect. amazing trick.
Hey thanks for the comment ! I have a video on how to remove thin gauge sheet metal from thin gauge sheet metal using this method.
Yep. Used this method as well as the manual seam buster in the same manner.
I also found a clean way for the areas that cannot be rolled up out of the way for easy "busting" is a 1/2" to 3/4" drill and just drill the discard side and do no damage to the save side.
Its quick and does not wear out the bit every 5 or 10 spot welds.
Ive done 10-15 jobs on one bit.
Cant do tight areas, but nothing does everything 😮
❤❤
Thanks for the comment and input !!
I like it. Good idea. As you mention, possibly limited....thinking of situations where you need to save the other panel for templating or rebuild. But this is a great additional strategy. And it doesn't gouge the other piece. Just great. Thank you.
Thanks, really appreciate the comment !!
I'm a Auto Body and Frame man been doing it for 48 years now I just use my cut off tool whenever I can use it with the grinding stone and a old Mac gasket scraper that way it does not destroy any panel at all especially when you are removing a quarter panel from a wheel well but I use it everywhere basically just tap it with the hammer and if it doesn't come loose I just get the gasket scraper give it a tap it pops right loose. Especially if someone a DYI a cut off tool which they probably already have and a grinding stone will last them forever and a day and if they don't have a gasket scraper the relatively cheap or just use an old stiff putty knife and with the belt sander they will have to buy the tool and the belts which get costly. If I run into a place that I can't use my cut off tool I just use a drill bit and drill through do the panel I'm replacing and the gasket scraper and it works great but when I do some Chryslers like you said they have some big spot welds I have a half inch drill bit that I made up years ago that only cuts through one panel and it was great and after working 10 years in a Chrysler dealership it more than paid for itself LOL. Don't get me wrong I have two Snap-on air chisels short barrel and long barrel and I've used them a lot maybe that's why my hair is so bad now LOL. Please do yourself a favor if you're going to use an air chisel by the best hearing protection you can if not if you buy a cheap set rubber plugs and put them in your ear first then use your cheap earmuffs save your hearing you only get it once and you don't want to have that ringing in your ears 24/7 it will drive you nuts.
Thanks for the comment and YES PPE always, I wish that had been more stressed back in the 80 - 90s.... when I started.
I’ve been doing it that way for years as well love your videos
@@glennlauzon8522 Awesome ! Thanks for the comment 👍
Never heard of a plug weld until recently. Back during my working days we did not drill holes to plug with weld. We just struck the arc where we wanted to weld using a small rod then pushed the rod through the weld puddle and then draw it back out. The puddle would follow the arc and close up making a nice smooth weld. At the time we referred to the process as rivet welding.
@@edfrawley4356 That's awesome, hey thank you for the comment !
Thanks. Good tips. Getting ready to tackle the floors in my 1970 Dodge D200.
Nice, those are getting to be very popular !
SPOT ON! Thanks for sharing, have been doing the same as you for years and it Works! Great thing to share with so many that never knew! Not to mention the cost savings doing this method.Thanks
@lawrencetrapani5623 Yes Sir ! Just trying to pass on an alternative. Thanks again !!
Keeping it simple works! Have watched many with their procedures an high tech new ideas however back many years ago, only had pneumatic tool and made adaptors! Great Channel will recommend you!
@lawrencetrapani5623 That's awesome ! Thank you Sir !!
Wow that is way better than drilling! I wish I had seen this a year ago but no matter, now I know! Thanks!
@ronbunker5778 Well you can try it out on the next one ! Thanks for the comment!
Belt sander on the top of the spot welds is the way to go
Batter operated Milwaukee belt sander works awesome especially if you have a couple batteries love mine
Thanks for the info.
I have to say, that is pretty slick and a considerable time saver. Not to mention all the sharp edges to cut your hands and fingers on and crawling around in the metal chips from drilling. Plus, if you don't know how to sharpen drill bits you can go through a lot of them.
To be honest, I really was not expecting much when I read the title, but I am impressed.
@edwardhurst2533 Hey I'm glad you enjoyed the video, really appreciate your comment !
Seam splitter knife works great with a medium hammer. Gives you precision control and leaves you usually with repairable or usable pieces.
Yeah that works too, but this is 3x faster = more 🤑
Wow, you really have a way with major projects. As always, thanks for the tips. It's probably a chore keeping the shop as clean as it is.
Thanks !! keeping the shop clean is just habit.
@@guzzifabrication3448 Solid! So much better morale working in a clean shop.
@branchandfoundry560 How clean a shop is reflect the type of work accomplished in it... Thanks for the compliment !!!
I'm from up North and I like all the attachments for that tool that I never had.
👍
I tried this method after watching some of your impala videos when I had to take the inner structure out of the hood on my 61 Oldsmobile. Without question, the most efficient way to remove spot welds.
The other bonus to this is that your not putting a huge hole in the panels if you're trying to reuse it. When I did it, I needed to remove the structure to access the panel behind it with a dolly to fix some collision damage. But then I had to put the structure back in. If I drilled out or cut out all of those spot welds, there would have been a huge hole to patch. But with this method, the spot welded lip can be massaged back into shape and plug welded back together.
KaaaBooom !!! awesome !
Yes, nice method when you have a such strong counterpart. I have to work on that thing sheets of modern cars. Grinding them out with a finger belt or small grinding disc is there often the only solution.
Thanks for the comment !
Two videos this week! Thank you, Robert. 👍👍
Yes Sir !
Been there done that,gonna put a floorpan in my 65 Dart GT 273 this winter,great advice to help ease the pain lol.
Mopars rock ! Thanks for the comment !!!
Nicely done and explained I'm a do it yourself guy. I was a mechanic for 30 plus years. Some day I want to begin work on my 1984 T-roof Z/28. That's been sitting now for to long. I'm now subscribed to your channel and looking for to future videos.
Sincerely CWO Shook US Army Retired
@@VIKING-SON Welcome to the family, I will do my best to provide great content for my subscribers !
Yup! Thats how im going to do it. Great video. Nice clean shop too. Mark of a professional.
Once you get the hang of it you can separate almost any panel thin welded on thick or same gauge to same gauge, let me know how it worked. Thanks !
I once took apart a complete AMC hornet station wagon using spot weld cutters , being a unibody constructed car you can imagine how many there were. It took several afternoons after getting off work to do it and several cheap spot weld cutters. Doing it the way I did makes all the sheet metal parts reusable but takes forever.
Check out this video th-cam.com/video/kouARVvrkHg/w-d-xo.html
another great video thank you for the tips thr very helpful. have a blessed weekend brother
Thanks !! you and family too
@@guzzifabrication3448 thank you
Good morning Robert, thank you for some more valuable tech information. Always worth the time to be educated. Great experience and expertise. Thank you and take care and good luck.
Love the comment ! Thanks !!
I have been using an air chisel to take body panels apart sense 1968. I was taught it in auto body repair school.
@@user-tn1hk6zm2freedom 👍
Perfect example of "Less is more." Thank you for sharing with all of us!
@branchandfoundry560 Yes Sir,Thank you !!!
Great tips and great job. I like how you specifically show what not to use. Also showing how the different grinding tools work.
@@mikerecords5530 Thank you for supporting my channel !! You are appreciated
Works very well if you dont want to save the piece underside. Also an air chisel set to low speed removes old undercoating very quickly, try it out.
@allanfranklin9615 Thanks, I have a video on both of those subjects.
Finally subscribed! This is great content Robert. There's always another "right way" to do things.... great that you're showing options without claiming everyone else is wrong!! Thanks for this, Kevin Tetz. Paintucation.
Hey brother I've seen your stuff out there, much respect ! Thanks for the comment !
You are a great teacher and to the point. Thank you for the video. Definitely subscribed
I really appreciate the sub and the support !! Thank you !
Great job as always. I really enjoy your tips. No nonsense down to earth.👍🏻
I really appreciate your comment ! I will try to live up to that !
This is great, as always! Thank you so much!
Thanks for supporting my channel !! I really appreciate it.
Man, I love this channel! I always learn something, every video I watch! Keep up the great work!
@billydeal3205 Thank you Sir !!!
I wish I had seen this about 2 weeks ago. I even wondered to myself while drilling holes, "I wonder if an air hammer would work" but decided it would mangle the heck out of the good metal. I'll use this trick next time for sure.
I'm putting together a video right now on separating thin on thin gauge sheetmetal. Thanks for your support !
Nice Ampeg! Great video! Thanks!
You saw that, Yeah it's sweet....
Love all your videos Robert ! Thaks for all the great advice. 👍
Thank you for supporting my channel !
I'm glad I found your channel I find your vidoes are very informative. Thanks for sharing expertise
Welcome to the family !
I have 45 years of heavy collision work that is exactly the way I did my spot Wells with the air hammer and a flat bit. Good job easier and faster. 🙏🇺🇸
@user-bi5by8xj3l Yes Sir !!!
That's just amazing, so quick!
Try it, let me know.
Thanks dude 😊 . She's going to be a beauty 😍
It's going to be a full on Resto mod, thanks for supporting the channel !
Great tips by a real pro.
Thank you Sir !!
Great advice for my mgb floors😊 keep them coming, enjoyed it, Joe❤❤
@joescully566 Thanks Joe !!!
Great tip, thanks!
Thank you Sir !!
Besides the always helpful tips and tricks - I'm always amazed over the clean environment ... A metal surgeon he is ...
a clean shop is required for great work
@@ST-cy6we Yes Sir !
Thanks ! the funny part is I always think it's dirty.... I really appreciate your support.
Probably a fake shop. Makes videos to promote equipment and products.
@@bernardmauge8613 I am A.I. you got me...
Thanks for the tip on the actual air hammer bit to use. Will come in handy very soon
Nice, try it let me know.
A double week. Awesome. Keep up the great content. I have learned a lot. Thanks man
Thanks for your support ! I appreciate it.
Great little trick, thanks a bunch 😮
Thanks !! try it out !
This is one of the best places to watch a pro provide diy tips. Real stuff that works. Thank You
I will try to live up to that compliment ! Thanks !!!
Air hammer works well as demonstrated but when the two panels are the same thickness then there is no telling how they will separate. Often damage will incur on the panel you wish to save. Still a good method over all. 👍
@@ggordon4127 I am making a video on that, I can do same thickness no problem. Thanks for watching !
Thanks for the great information on removing spot welds a better way
Thanks for supporting my channel !
Great explanations, good tips!
Thanks !!!
Luv it! Your shop organization is amazing too.
Thank you !!!
Great technique ! i like it
Thank you Sir !
I'm a mechanic, I've worked in panel shops as the mechanic.
I've seen most guys use either a proper spot weld drill, it looks like an end mill.
Or the belt sander.
I have done some panel work my self, and with a nice sharp spot weld drill you can lift panels leaving no holes on the metal you want to keep.
Thanks for the comment and info !
It gives so much confidence and motivation, thank you Robert. By the way, really impressive and clean workshop. Would like to work there. Greetings from Austria
Thank you VERY much for that compliment ! Greetings from America !!
I have used this method a lot, I grind away the spot weld then peel back the metal, Then clean of any left with flap disc.
@paulwaites6551 👍, Hey thanks for the input
I enjoyed this! Clear and concise explanation and a great demonstration. I even expected you to only demo one of the 3 grinders suggested, but loved the fact you showed using all 3! I’ve used all sorts and didn’t NEED to see it, but I really appreciate how thorough you were, yet you didn’t beat any dead horses either. I’m betting you cover panel cutters and flat spot drills in other videos, which I’m about to flip through and subscribe, but it would’ve been nice to see here. Kinda cringe at the thought of people drilling a bunch of holes through good panels and supports with regular twist drills. It’s not like it can’t be resolved, but I’d much prefer a spot drills minimal damage if I couldn’t use your method here for some reason. I’d like to see a video on panel to panel corrosion prevention methods. Ive used zinc spray before. How concerned should we actually be in most cases? I like por15, but are you able to resistance weld through it without problem? I’m a mechanic. Body stuff is just hobby for me.
Thanks !! I'm up to video #205, check through my playlist for subjects your interested in. Thanks for subscribing !! I have a video in the works on corrosion protection. Yes you can resistance weld through POR 15 if its really thin, I usually apply a copper weld through primer.
This Is a great video! Thank you! The info in here is going to be super helpful on my 71 Chevy C20 project!
@@MidnightCustoms-C20 Thank you for supporting my channel !
@@guzzifabrication3448 you're welcome! I subscribed. Thank you for the great content
@@MidnightCustoms-C20 Welcome to the Guzzi Fabrication family !
@guzzifabrication3448 thank you for having me.
@@MidnightCustoms-C20 Boooom !
I can say that looks like it works pretty well. I would also like to say what does that run in decibel’s about 140. Air hammers have their uses but, i hate them and do that in you garage at home so will your neighbors.
👍
You do a great job.
Thank you !!
Nice work agin tanks for teh video I follow yours work
I really appreciate all of your support !!
Nice work Robert.
I like this procedure.
Bondobilly does something very similar.
I like how you are leaving the metal underneath intact.
Thanks for sharing.
I am already subscribed to your channel.
Have a great weekend. 👍
Thanks for the support !!! Really appreciate you.
Just ran across your channel and subscribed. You are ‘literally’ building this car from almost nothing. This will be quite a chore. I look forward to updated videos of this project as you move forward.
Phillip Hall
Thank you Mr. Hall ! I have over 200 videos on youtube with some really independent builds.
Welcome to the family !
@@guzzifabrication3448
Thank you kindly Mr Guzzi. 😊
Phillip Hall
Good job, Man, and I like your workshop!
Thank you Sir !!
Great job. Thank you 😊
Thank you Sir !!
I agree this works great. however I need to save the part I take off. I removed a floor pan seat riser to instal the floor pans. I needed to reinstall the seat riser. i also have to remover the front upper cowl by the windshield to repair holes underneath then reinstall the upper cowl. so any parts not needed this method works great.
Video link
th-cam.com/video/kouARVvrkHg/w-d-xo.html
Thank you another brilliant video
Thanks for supporting the channel !!
A special thanks to all of the people following and supporting the channel ! Like - subscribe - share - comment !
This is good stuff.
I'm glad you liked the content !!
Snap-On makes a nice impact chisel for panel separation. Mopars seem aLittle tougher than that to cut. Nice video.
Thanks for the info !
Very nice work! Great job!
@@cuttnhorse2013 Thank you !!!
@@guzzifabrication3448 I’m Ronnie, from Oneida,Tennessee
@cuttnhorse2013 Good afternoon Ronnie from Tennessee, hope your day is going well
Thanks. For the tip.
Yes Sir !!
Thanks, appreciated!
Thank you Sir !!
I work at a collisions repair center ,i do prep ,but the technicians all use a mini belt sander to remove all panels ,but these are all new cars ,metal is very thin ,not like the older cars
I have a video on separating thin from thin, your correct sometimes you need a different method. Thanks for the comment !
In the old days, when no one had an electric drill, we used a chisel to cut spot welds. A very similar method.
Yes, done that ! Thanks for the comment !
Nice vid, but I'll stick with my method of 1/8" bit to center the spot weld (not drilling all the way through), then larger bit say 7/16" to drill out about 75% of the weld. Leaves it weakened enough that the panels separate with ease, not ripping apart the panel you want to save.
Thanks for the comment and watching !
Your method looks good to remove the floor from the crossmember. The cross member looked good in this car. What do you do at the point where the floor is spot welded to the firewall. The gauge of metal is the same and the firewall is probably still good. I think a spot weld cutter is the way to go?
I really appreciate the comment, check out the video after : th-cam.com/video/kouARVvrkHg/w-d-xo.html
let me know what you think. Thanks
Thank you from England
Awesome !!! Greetings from America!
Thanks for the lesson!
Over 200 videos on TH-cam, thank you for your supporting the channel !
Nice work, wish my shop was that clean lol
@@charliedean3039 Thanks !!!
Great video.. Im gonna put heavy Emphasis on the Tip he used with the Air Hammer Pay close attention to that same style and Shape if not you will cut into or Blast the part you dont want to. (I learned the hard way...)
@@ericdanielson1138 Yes, the correct bit is everything.... awesome that you tried it !!!
The way I have been doing it since the 70s most of the time metal has rusted thinner and metal separates with little effort with the sarden can method meaning you just roll the metal back and forth at the weld.
Thanks for the comment I really appreciate your support !!
There is a place for this, there is also a place to drill them out. I don't use spot weld cutters because you have to drill a pilot hole to keep them centered. I use Irwin TurboTax drill bits with a flat point. Easily drill through one layer without damaging the lower layer.
@@jamesford2942 Thanks for the info !
Im the welder/panel replacement guy for a couple of higher end restoration shops.
Heres what i do, i pre drill each spot on thin stuff with a double end 1/8 inch bit.
Then i follow up with the 1/8-1/2 step bit, and it pops right apart, with minimal hammer work.
Then i just weld the hole up with the new panel in.
On stuff like a mustang floor to inner rocker, inner rocker being a heavy piece of metal, i use like a 5/16 drill bit instead of the step bit, not going all the way through the thicker piece.
Cornwell bits over 1/4 are guaranteed for life against breakage, so when its dull, i put it in the vise and break it with a hammer.
That 1/8 hole in the thicker metal gives me a better weld penetration when welding thin to thick.
If you want to weld a bigger hole up without a bunch of burn through and it being a pain, i take a scrap piece of copper pipe, flatten the end, and fold it over, hammer it flat. Small weld bursts wont adhere to the copper pipe but dont go crazy.
If i go through the edge of a panel drilling and welding, i weld it up, stick a piece of masking tape on for a straight enough line, and dress it with a die grinder with a 'barrel' carbide burr. Makes the weld that puddled past the edge straight and looks clean.
I do use an air chisel on heavy gauge to heavy gauge in places that arent practical to drill.
Ive never bought a rotabroach or a belt sander.
On the super fancy cars, i grind it all smooth and use a pin punch of the correct size between my mig welds and just leave enough of a dimple to simulate a spot weld.
Thats my two cents, and we are finishing a $40,000 body and paint job on a frame off bronco restoration this week. I also just finished a very nice (now) Mercedes 190 sl that got a ton of metal replacement, all the floors, outer frame rails, full nose replacement, and alot of section repairs.
Hey thanks for the info !!
very useful
It has it's place for sure, another tool/method for your tool box !
Just great!
Thank !!!
Your method works well when removing a thinner gauge from a thicker gauge but where there are the same gauge material, and one has to be reused it seems to destroy both pieces. I'm restoring a 1964 VW crew cab truck for a friend now. A lot of old imports are paper thin were not rusted and powering thru them with an air gun just rips everything apart. I agree with you on the torsion bar support member you showed is beefy enough to just cut the tin off and clean it up with a sander
European cars are out for this method for sure, I'm posting a video tomorrow on the techniques that must be used for separating thin gauge from thin gauge. Check it out, this method comes out of the collision industry, I use this method exclusively on every panel of a vehicle, no problem. Thanks
I prefer the cutters, as its somthing I can turn the.kids loose with, and not too much chance of extreme damage to the "keeper" panel. Certainly never use just a drill bit, because the "extra" holes are just more work to fix. But, a combo of cutter and chisel- having and using both, is best!👍👍
@@wheels-n-tires1846 👍